Nancy L. Jackson's research while affiliated with New Jersey Institute of Technology and other places
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Publications (119)
Chapter 7 discusses the importance of public support and accountability and the need to address issues at the intersection of natural sciences, social sciences, and engineering. Recognition that the acceptability of coastal management actions can be polarized into ecocentric and anthropocentric views or along disciplinary lines requires adoption of...
This new edition - now with Nancy Jackson as a co-author - continues the themes of the first edition: the need to restore the biodiversity, ecosystem health, and ecosystem services provided by coastal landforms and habitats, especially in the light of climate change. The second edition reports on progress made on practices identified in the first e...
Chapter 4 discusses restoration of the natural functions of degraded landforms and landforms that provide a limited number of shore protection or recreational values. The case is made to make beach/dune systems more dynamic to allow nature to undergo exchanges of sediment, nutrients, and biota; follow cycles of accretion, erosion, growth, and decay...
Chapter 1 identifies how shorelines are converted to artifacts by eliminating dunes to facilitate coastal construction and provide beach access and by grading and cleaning beaches to make them more attractive to beach users. Beach erosion and attempts to retain buildings and infrastructure near the shoreline can result in truncation or loss of beac...
Chapter 3 discusses the ways foredunes can be built by human actions in locations where they have been eliminated. Alternative strategies for foredune development are reviewed including (1) using beach nourishment to provide a beach with sediment sizes that can be reworked by waves and winds; (2) constructing dunes by using earth-moving equipment t...
Chapter 8 identifies the rationale and components of an integrated, locally based program for increasing the number, size, and cumulative benefits of natural environments in developed municipalities. Elements include (1) getting stakeholders to accept natural landforms and habitats as appropriate elements in a developed coastal landscape; (2) ident...
Chapter 9 addresses research questions for issues related to restoring degraded beach/dune systems. The case is made that restoration is not just a two-stage process that should only be evaluated by comparing before/after conditions but a series of ongoing changes in human and natural processes. Many restoration actions must be episodic to be succe...
Chapter 6 identifies how cross-shore environmental gradients are altered where houses are close to the water and how natural habitats can be accommodated in truncated, compressed, decoupled, or fragmented gradients. Achievable restored states include those that require strategies that accommodate natural processes or those that restrict natural pro...
Chapter 2 identifies how lost natural values and human–nature relationships can be regained by nourishing beaches with compatible sediment and allowing natural processes to reestablish landforms and biota. The ways beach nourishment is placed and their positive and negative effects are reviewed. Effects include changes in morphology and habitat in...
Chapter 5 discusses actions to alter or remove shore protection structures to help restore landforms and habitats. The case is made for the need for sediment and space to sustain natural features, the need to connect landforms and habitats by sediment transfers, and the need to allow for migration of topographic features offshore, onshore, and alon...
This new edition - now with Nancy Jackson as a co-author - continues the themes of the first edition: the need to restore the biodiversity, ecosystem health, and ecosystem services provided by coastal landforms and habitats, especially in the light of climate change. The second edition reports on progress made on practices identified in the first e...
Estuaries are among the most biologically productive and geomorphologically complex environments in the coastal zone. A review of research is presented, focusing on broad scale estuarine morphology and evolution and an examination of contemporary processes and forms in the intertidal zone. The chapter includes a discussion of current issues in estu...
An amendment to this paper has been published and can be accessed via a link at the top of the paper.
Several aquatic species use beach foreshores to lay their eggs. Understanding the dynamics of egg entrainment versus egg retention in foreshore sediment is important to delivering eggs to foraging species, and to predicting fecundity and population responses of beach nesting species to harvest and habitat management. Exhumation of these eggs is pri...
Composition and richness of coastal vegetation differs with distance from the water and sheltering by topography. Transition from pioneer beach plants to mature forests is expected to be narrow on low wave energy coasts with a tropical climate favorable to vegetation growth. The goal of this paper is to determine whether vegetation on the beach and...
Trends in research on morphologic changes on beaches and foredunes on sandy shores are identified from the 1960s to the present. Research during this period evolved from early descriptive explanation and classification of profile change, to instrumented field investigations, to modelling of landform change at larger scales. Research efforts have be...
An important issue facing coastal managers is how natural coastal habitats can be protected against wave erosion by human action. An assessment is made of attempts to protect a rare maritime forest on the bay side of a barrier island at Fire Island, New York, USA using artificial beach fill. The sediment deficit is caused by human attempts to stabi...
Removal of shorefront houses following storm damage can provide opportunity to restore landforms and habitats and reduce risk to people and property. This opportunity was evaluated on the ocean coast of New Jersey, USA, following Hurricane Sandy, which occurred 29 October 2012. Houses were removed from 79 of 339 private shorefront lots in the 9 km-...
Use of static shore protection structures is often considered an irreversible change toward a decrease in shoreline dynamism, but structures can be modified to make them more compatible with human needs and create a more mobile beach. This concept is documented by comparing changes in shape and volume of the beach and nearshore resulting from modif...
Studies of sediment transport on developed coasts provide perspective on how human adjustments alter natural processes. Deployment of sand-trapping fences is a common adjustment that changes the characteristics of the dune ramp and its role in linking sediment transfers from the backshore to the foredune. Fence effects were evaluated in the field u...
Concepts derived from previous studies of offshore winds on natural dunes are evaluated on a dune maintained for shore protection during three offshore wind events. The potential for offshore winds to form a lee‐side eddy on the backshore or transfer sediment from the dune and berm crest to the water are evaluated, as are differences in wind speed...
Space for dunes is often limited in developed areas, placing increased importance on human efforts to aid dune-building. This study assesses how different management strategies influence dune topography, surface cover and below ground biomass of vegetation on four dune segments in New Jersey in two successive years. Two segments are evolving withou...
Estuarine beaches often lack well developed surf zones; incident waves break and convert directly to swash on the steep foreshore, resulting in greater influence of the swash zone in generating longshore flows and sediment transport. This study was conducted to evaluate longshore sediment transport in the swash zone of an eroding estuarine beach an...
In coastal environments, evaporation is an important driver of subsurface salinity gradients in marsh systems. However, it has not been addressed in the intertidal zone of sandy beaches. Here, we used field data on an estuarine beach foreshore with numerical simulations to show that evaporation causes upper intertidal zone pore-water salinity to be...
Recent studies have identified the need to adapt to climate change by allowing landforms and habitats to migrate landward, although implementation of actual adaptation responses is limited. Removing the barriers that shore protection structures create between coastal and upland habitats can reestablish exchanges of sediment and the ecological funct...
Landforms present in undeveloped beach enclaves located between properties developed with houses and infrastructure are often left to evolve naturally but are influenced by the human structures near them. This field study evaluates how buildings and sand-trapping fences change the direction of wind approach, reduce wind speed, and restrict fetch di...
Shoreline erosion is often exacerbated by reduction of sediment inputs because of interference with sediment transport by human structures. We evaluate use of sediment dredged from a navigation channel to establish a feeder beach adjacent to a bulkhead as a solution for addressing erosion of landforms and habitats on sandy estuarine shores. The obj...
Sediment transport on the lee sides of aeolian dunes involves a combination of grain-fall deposition on the upper portion of the slip face until a critical angle is exceeded, transport of a portion of those sediments down the slip face by grain flows and, finally, deposition at an angle of repose. We measured the mean critical and repose angles and...
A desired outcome in the construction of a detached emerged breakwater is the formation of an accretionary salient in its lee to augment the beach, improve beach amenity and provide an additional buffer from storm waves. The extent to which this salient forms and its morphology are strongly controlled by the breakwater geometry with respect to the...
Construction of bulkheads is a common response to erosion of estuarine shorelines. Bulkheads are usually built incrementally, resulting in wider sandy beaches remaining as enclaves between bulkhead segments. This paper measures the characteristics of bulkheads and enclaves and evaluates (1) whether horseshoe crabs (Limulus polyphemus) utilize encla...
Managed retreat is rarely implemented on exposed sandy coasts because of public interest in beach recreation and the great human-use value of existing beaches and dunes. The feasibility of retreat on the sandy coast of the Adriatic Sea in the Region of Emilia-Romagna was evaluated at a site with a single user facility (a beach concession) backed by...
Temporal changes in pore-water salinity and metal concentrations were investigated in soils from two sites (Residential and Wetland areas) located in the Old Bridge Township, NJ, after Hurricane Sandy hit the Northeast of the United States of America. Core and surface soil samples were collected in both the residential and wetland sites and then an...
Studies suggest that at engineering universities, where the percentage of males and engineering majors is high, pro-environmental attitudes are likely to be weak and may not change. The 15-item New Ecological Paradigm (NEP) scale was used to measure differences in student attitudes before and after an environmental studies course. Results revealed...
The significance of sediment delivered via storm-associated stream discharge in altering sediment characteristics, beach form, and volume is evaluated on pocket beaches with different basin characteristics and wave exposures. The focus is on changes on three beaches on Elba Island, Italy caused by a flood event in September 2002 that had an estimat...
Coastal landforms and habitats require space to reform in response to storm damage to increase the likelihood of long-term sustainability. The purpose of this study is to evaluate the potential for removing shore protection structures to allow natural shoreline processes to prevail as part of a strategy to adapt to sea level rise associated with cl...
Increases in human development of the coastal zone, sea level rise and
intensity of coastal storms will test the resilience of coastal systems.
An integrated approach is needed to describe geomorphic-biologic
dependencies, feedbacks between processes and responses, and determine
how coastal systems can be maintained or restored. The 2013 Binghamton...
On September 4th, 2002 a storm with an estimated recurrence time of 200 years struck the Isola d’Elba causing catastrophic floods on the small coastal plains and disturbing many pocket beaches. A comparison between data from before and after this high-energy, low-frequency event allowed to evaluate its impact on the morphology of Lacona beach and o...
Dunes occur in numerous locations in estuaries despite constraints to active aeolian transport caused by the paucity and small size of sand beaches. Examination of dune characteristics in two large estuaries in the northeastern United States (Raritan Bay and Delaware Bay) reveals that active foredunes formed by natural processes are small (usually...
Sediment transport and short-term morphologic change were evaluated at a site where sand fences are deployed and the beach is raked (Managed Site) and a site where these human adjustments are not practiced (Unmanaged Site). Data were gathered across the seaward portion of a low foredune when winds blew nearly shore-normal at mean speeds 8.9 to 9.3...
The ability to restore dunes on developed sandy shores depends on the beach width, the distance to human structures, human actions to trap or move sand, the tolerance of people to the dynamism of natural features, and the willingness to invest resources. Dunes can be built using earth-moving equipment, sand fences, vegetation planting or by allowin...
Projected rates of global sea level rise and human pressures have increased attention to the potential for landform change in estuaries. This paper assesses the status of the fetch-limited beaches in the Tagus estuary, one of the largest estuaries in Europe, with a focus on distinguishing active beaches from inactive vegetated banks and identifying...
Raking beaches to remove wrack (natural and human litter) to enhance recreational use, and using sand fences to build and stabilize dunes are common practices on developed shores, but their effects on the landscape are not well understood. Managers in Avalon, NJ ceased using sand fences and raking in a portion of beach in 1991, providing the opport...
Cross‐shore grading of sediment has been observed on the surface of estuarine beaches but the swash zone processes responsible for this grading have not been measured. This study was conducted to provide an explanation for the cross‐shore grading of sediment on a predominantly sandy estuarine foreshore. Data on wave and swash characteristics and se...
This review is intended to identify differences between beaches in short-fetch environments and beaches on exposed coasts, while also distinguishing between the different subcategories of fetch-limited beaches. Subcategories are discussed largely in terms of estuaries, lakes and reservoirs. The term fetch-limited refers to basins that are small eno...
Humans modify beaches and dunes and aeolian transport potential by building structures, walking or driving, extracting resources, accommodating recreation, increasing levels of protection, removing storm deposits, or restoring landforms and habitats. The effects of human adjustments are reviewed here in terms of cross-shore zones because humans ten...
This article identifies ways to overcome impediments to restoring natural features on developed shores where human-use functions are the dominant driving forces. Suggestions are made for (1) incorporating natural features and natural dynamism into beach nourishment projects; (2) addressing constraints in size and space; (3) reducing the impact of h...
Disruption of food availability by unfavorable physical processes at energetically demanding times can limit recruitment of migratory species as predicted by the match–mismatch hypothesis. Identification and protection of disruption‐resistant habitat could contribute to system resilience. For example, horseshoe crab Limulus polyphemus spawning and...
Wind characteristics and aeolian transport were measured on a naturally evolving beach and dune and a nearby site where the beach is raked and sand-trapping fences are deployed. The beaches were composed of moderately well sorted to very well sorted fine to medium sand. The backshore at the raked site was wider and the foredune was more densely veg...
This field study identifies the short-term (hours) effect of freshly deposited wrack on aeolian transport and surface elevation changes on the backshore and foredune of a barrier island at Avalon, New Jersey, USA. Storm wave uprush reached the dune toe on 21 October 2008 and deposited a line of vegetative wrack about 2 m wide (cross-shore) and 70 m...
Beach nourishment programs in estuaries can enhance shore protection, but they decrease habitat suitability by creating higher berms and wider backshores than would occur under natural conditions. Use of sediment sources from outside the area can result in sedimentary characteristics that differ from native sediments on the surface and at depth, al...
Beach-nourishment operations designed to replace sediment lost through erosion change the identity and meaning of coastal landscapes. Seven beaches in Tuscany, nourished with marble-quarry waste, reveal how an industrial byproduct is naturalized by particle rounding and sorting and can become a positive symbol of human-altered nature. The marble wa...
Human actions can contribute to degradation of coastal environments or they can increase the likelihood that these environments will be restored. Beach nourishment provides a basis for restoration, but ways must be found to add habitat improvement to projects designed for shore protection. This study examines how beach nourishment projects can help...
Background/Question/Methods
The Coastal Barrier Island Network (CBIN), an interdisciplinary national research group, was established under sponsorship of the National Science Foundation in 2008 to provide a forum for bio-geo-social scientists and managers to identify research questions and management strategies to promote sustainability of ecosyst...
The relationship between wave height and depth of sediment activation is evaluated on an estuarine beach to determine whether activation depth is less in pebbles than sand. Rods with washers were used to monitor three excavated beach plots filled with (1) pebbles with mean grain size of 11.5 mm; (2) sand and granules; and (3) sand, granules and peb...
The ability to successfully manage estuarine shorelines requires balancing ecological function with societal demands. The
sandy barriers of Delaware Bay provide important spawning habitat for horseshoe crabs but they are modified for shore protection.
This chapter provides a review of the sandy shoreline resources within Delaware Bay; describes the...
Bayside bulkheads on Great South Bay, New York at Fire Island National Seashore are evaluated to determine their impact on unprotected areas adjacent to them and to identify alternatives for future protection from coastal erosion. Bulkheads extend along about 18% of the 67.3 km-long shoreline. Annual topographic surveys conducted 2004-2008 at four...
Artificial beach nourishment is commonly practiced along the North Adriatic coast of Italy to fight beach erosion. About 10 million m 3 of sand has been placed along 45 km of coast in 10 years. The strong wind regime and the need to protect coastal habitat have drawn attention to problems associated with aeolian transport and dune reconstruction. T...
Concern about future supplies of fresh water to society, to meet the full range of human needs, now comes very high on the priority list of global societal issues. An overarching issue, which this book addresses, is whether global climate change is a dominant driver of change in the structure and function of all natural water-based ecosystems, or w...
Knowledge of conditions that favor development of eggs is important for management of species whose population growth is sensitive to early life history survival. Viability and develop- ment of the eggs of horseshoe crabs Limulus polyphemus on a sand and gravel beach were evaluated using data gathered on Delaware Bay, USA, from 18 May to 19 June 20...
INTRODUCTION Most sandy shores consist of coupled surf zone, intertidal beach and dune systems (Short & Hesp 1982), which together constitute a littoral active zone of sand transport. Many of these systems were formed during Holocene deglaciation which increased sediment discharge to the shore. This also drove a rapid rise in global sea level to ap...
Redesign of shore protection projects in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern (Germany) is allowing landforms to become more dynamic after centuries of employing structures to increase stability. Current policies are designed to maintain sediment transfers, re-establish wetlands, ensure zero net loss of coastal habitat and apply the user-pays principle for resto...
This field study evaluates the effect of nourishing an estuarine beach with gravel to enhance spawning rates by horseshoe crabs. A total of 564 m3 of coarse sand and gravel were emplaced in two 90 m-long treatment segments at Bowers Beach, Delaware, USA from 9 to 11 April 2002. Field data were gathered between 6 April and 24 May 2002 to characteriz...
Changes in wind speed and sediment transport are evaluated at a gap and adjacent crest of a 2 to 3 m high, 40 m wide foredune built by sand fences and vegetation plantings on a wide, nourished fine sand beach at Ocean City, New Jersey. Anemometer masts, cylindrical sand traps and erosion pins were placed on the beach and dune during two obliquely o...
A gravel beach was created in winter 2001-2002 seaward of a 330-meter-long seawall at Marina di Pisa, Tuscany, Italy. A monitoring project was performed to evaluate the stability of the new beach and the interaction between the coarse fill and the fine sand comprising the nearshore profile. Bathymetric surveys were conducted in October 200 1, befor...
Variability in sediment transport is evaluated over a wind-normal span of four meters. Transport rates were determined from 5 vertical cylindrical sand traps emplaced at 1-m intervals during 4 different wind conditions on a sand beach in Ocean City, New Jersey, USA. Mean wind speeds ranged from 6.1 to 7.1 m s(-1), Winds blew at a slight angle to sh...
The abundance of horseshoe crab eggs in the swash zone and remaining on the beach after tide levels fall was evaluated to identify how numbers of eggs available to shorebirds differ with fluctuations in spawning numbers of horseshoe crabs, wave energies and beach elevation changes. Field data were gathered 1–6 June 2004 at Slaughter Beach on the we...
Sediment transport across a foredune and beach at Ocean City, New Jersey, was examined to identify the effect of houses, dune topography, sand fences, vegetation, and wrack lines during an offshore wind. Houses are as close as 18 m from the crest of the 2- to 3-m-high foredune and are up to 9.0 m high and 12.8 m wide and spaced 4.0 to 5.0 in apart....
Data from a moderate energy, meso-tidal beach on the east side of Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA, revealed the significance of both beach width as a source for aeolian transport and the effect of tidal rise on source width. Wind speeds averaged over 17·1 min, recorded 6 m above the crest of a 0·5 m high dune, ranged from 11·6 to 12·7 m s−1 during th...
The effects of wave action and horseshoe crab spawning on the topography and grain-size characteristics on the foreshore of an estuarine sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA were evaluated using data collected over six consecutive high tides. Data were gathered inside and outside a 25 m long exclosure constructed to create a control area fre...
This study was undertaken to determine whether nourished and un-nourished estuarine beaches have conspicuous differences in sediment size and sorting that could affect their value as habitat for horseshoe crabs. Comparisons are made of beach profiles and sediment samples gathered at 0.15 m and 0.30 m depths on the backshore, at spring tide elevatio...
The surface characteristics and dimensions of many beaches reflect past inputs of sediment due to human activity in tributary drainage basins. Subsequent control of erosion in drainage basins, changes in flow regimes of streams, and construction of shorefront structures have reduced sediment input and eliminated beach area in many coastal segments,...
An experimental submerged groin was built in spring 1999 at Marina di Ronchi (Tuscany, Italy), where the erosion rate was 4 m/yr from 1985 to 1998. The groin is 180 m long and built with 2.5 × 1.8 × 0.7 m polypropylene bags filled with sand. It is buried under the backshore and extends to the -3m isobath with a mean elevation of approximately 1 m a...
Spatial variations in sediment load in the swash uprush and textural properties of sediment in transport were evaluated to investigate the mechanisms responsible for sediment transport during wave uprush. Four streamer traps were deployed at 2.0-m intervals across the swash zone of a sheltered, microtidal sandy beach at Port Beach, Western Australi...
Sandy beaches in estuaries are recognized for their importance as habitat (Nordstrom 1992; Botton et al. 1994) but this habitat is decreasing due to beach erosion and human development. Along the east coast of North America, the horseshoe crab (Limulus polyphemus) is one of the most prominent species using sandy beaches and there is a need to prese...
This study was conducted to relate the cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and grain size characteristics
to cross-shore and longshore current velocities on a sandy low-energy beach in a non-tidal embayment of the Baltic Sea. Simultaneous
measurements of current velocities and amount of sand caught in streamer traps were made o...
Longshore sediment transport rates were estimated on a microtidal estuarine beach in Great South Bay, N.Y., during two dyed sand tracer experiments using a temporal sampling method. Mean onshore wind speeds of 5.8 and 9.9 m/s resulted in root-mean-square wave heights of 0.07 and 0.08 m and wave angles of 3.0 and 10.1, causing transport rates of 0.4...
This review was undertaken to identify locations where low energy beaches may occur and their diagnostic forms and process controls, including waves, tides and water levels. Examples are drawn from the sheltered coastline of Western Australia near Perth and fetch-limited estuarine environments on the northeast coast of the United States. We suggest...
The characteristics of foredunes created in a municipal management program on a developed barrier island are evaluated to identify how landforms used as protection structures can be natural in appearance and function yet compatible with human values. Shoreline management zones include a naturally evolving, undeveloped segment; a noneroding, develop...
This review of research on estuarine beaches in the USA examines the linkages between geomorphology and biota and impacts of shore protection strategies. The effects of timing and frequency of storms, wave processes, and tidal range on morphologic response, sediment activation, infiltration and exfiltration of water through the foreshore, and litte...
Use of paintings in undergraduate courses is discussed to show their value in interpreting landscapes from the viewpoint of the physical sciences. Issues of realism and ways to distinguish evocative value from information value are evaluated. Paintings are used to (1) enliven lecture material, (2) test student knowledge and preconceptions, and (3)...
A field investigation of temporal and spatial changes in wind and wave characteristics, runup and beach water table elevation
was conducted on the foreshore of an estuarine beach in Delaware Bay during neap (April 9, 1995) and spring (April 16, 1995)
tides under low wave-energy conditions. The beach has a relatively steep, sandy foreshore and semi-...
Predicting erosion and accretion of sand beaches in estuaries is important to managing shoreline development and identifying
potential relationships between biological productivity and beach change. Wave, sediment and profile data, gathered over twenty-nine
days on an estuarine sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, were used to evaluate the perfo...
A twelve month field investigation documents differences in cross shore accumulation and composition of debris on the dune, backbeach, and foreshore of a sandy estuarine shoreline. Debris was gathered monthly within 3 belt transects extending from the dune crest to the low tide terrace (base of the foreshore). Individual pieces of debris were class...
This study assesses the effects of a high rise building on the beach and dune at an intensively developed shoreline through field investigation of geomorphological and sedimentological characteristics and wind tunnel investigation of wind speed and direction. Results indicate that wind speed is increased close to the building, where wind is often d...
A field investigation was conducted 9 March 1994 on a dissipative beach to compare wind characteristics and aeolian transport during and after a light rain. Winds blew alongshore during the monitoring period. Moisture content of surface sediment on the backbeach was above 7% during rain and 4% four hours after rainfall ceased. Trapping rates, measu...
A one-day field investigation on an unvegetated backbeach documents the importance of surface sediment drying to aeolian transport. Surface sediments were well sorted fine sand. Moisture content of samples taken in the moist areas on the backbeach varied from 2·9 to 9·2 per cent. Lack of dry sediment inhibited transport prior to 08:50. By 09:10 con...
Citations
... Modifications to hard engineering structures may be needed after their construction because of detrimental effects of previous interventions, changes in the condition of the structures and their setting through time, changes in water levels and frequency of storms, and the desires of stakeholders (Anfuso et al., 2012;Burcharth et al., 2014;Nordstrom, 2014;Kuriyama and Banno, 2016;Pranzini, 2017). Recent studies call for the need to make protection structures more compatible with natural values and human recreational needs (Escudero et al., 2014;Nordstrom, 2014;Kochnower et al., 2015;Manno et al., 2016;Alves et al., 2017). ...
... Marram grass has been introduced around the world to stabilize drifting sand and fortify coastal landscapes (for example, Hertling and Lubke 1999;Gadgil 2002;Rozé and Lemauviel 2004;Nordstrom 2021). Within its native range, our survey demonstrated that environmental conditions impact its spatial organization, while planting designs are, irrespective of environmental conditions with 30 to 60 cm spacing between individuals, in dispersed competition-limiting arrays (van der Putten 1990). ...
... One intriguing finding from our study was that we tended to find more eggs in samples taken 387 from alternative habitats than beach habitats, with potential explanations including females laying 388 more eggs in the alternative habitats than they do at the beach or eggs dispersing less frequently in 389 alternative habitats. Eggs laid in sandy beaches tend to be dispersed and exhumed over time due 390 to wave action in some areas (Nordstrom et al. 2006;Jackson et al. 2014Jackson et al. , 2020. In SC, it may be 391 that the generally more compact sediments, as seen by the smaller grain sizes, and lower energy 392 waves in the alternative habitats (coastalresilience.org, ...
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... At each verified urban pocket beach, we collected data on the type of adjacent armoring (e.g., vinyl, steel, or concrete seawalls, or rock revetments) and noted if vegetation (either naturally occurring or planted) was present as it may indicate beach habitat had experienced less disturbance (Grafals-Soto et al., 2020;Miller et al., 2009). Three cross-shore transects from the water to the seaward dune toe or armoring were conducted using a Trimble Catalyst GNSS unit to obtain the slope of the beach and create a digital elevation model for the wave runup processing (as per Ware et al., 2019). ...