Marilyn Revell DeLong’s research while affiliated with University of Minnesota Duluth and other places

The body dimensions of 85 female members of a weight loss salon who had lost 4-20 pounds were compared to PS 42–70, Body Measurements for the Sizing of Women's Patterns and Apparel (U.S. Dept. of Commerce, 1971) standard size dimensions before and after weight loss. The subjects were classified into fat pattern types to determine any differences occurring in patterns of dimensional change at specific body sites. A relation appeared to exist between a sub ject's fat pattern type and dimensional change at body sites. Weight loss does not guarantee im provement in the fit of ready-to-wear. The majority of women in this study would have difficulty finding a fit in ready-to-wear apparel sized with PS 42–70 either before or after weight loss.

Prior to and after 40 hours of visual exposure to, and discussion of, a wide range of costume body forms, 51 subjects were asked to respond to eight costume body forms varying in visual effect. Both pre‐ and post‐responses included a description of each costume body form and a selection of the slides liked best and least. Descriptions were compared as to: (1) orientation of the observer to the whole form and (2) the morphologic‐axiologic orientation. A majority of viewers increased in morphologic orientation and there was an increase in responses to the whole costume body form. A chi square test gave support to the hypothesis that viewers could separate their like or dislike of a costume body form from their descriptive consideration of that costume body form.

Two groups of females differing in age, students and nonstudents, were presented with five photographs of clothed bodies. Each subject was asked to respond to each photograph using an instrument made up of 56 semantic scales. The scales were chosen to represent a range of responses encountered in the visual perception of the clothed body. Multivariate analysis methods were used to test for differences among the costumes, the two observer groups, and the observers within the groups. Consistency in response to the costumes was found between the two groups. The residual vectors were analyzed by principal components and word pairs which were rated similarly were grouped and interpreted. The evaluative component which explained the largest variance included words such as like-dislike and fashionable-unfash ionable. The next four components included word pairs relating to uncertainty, complexity, and potency.

This research was designed to explore professional women's perceptions of the successful apparel product, the number of their shopping trips per year, and the frequency with which they found apparel they liked to purchase. A content anal ysis was used to reveal differences in product descriptions, using the criteria of relation to product, situation, and self. The successful product was described in more detail and with more content of situation and self. As respondent ages increased up to 40, descriptions shifted from emphasis on product characteristics to a more abstract definition of the category.

The purpose of this study was to compare 60 male and 59 female responses to social and business female dress. Suits and dresses were selected as stimuli to represent a social-to- business continuum. A semantic differential instrument was adapted for use from a previous study. Use of word pairs was similar in nature for male and female responses, although there was a difference in relative influence. Separation of responses was mostly evaluative in nature. The social-to-business continuum was a key parameter in male-female differences in response. Commonality in female response led to the conclusion that females accepted the business image represented by the stimuli. The male response was more diverse for business and social images.

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to analyze patterns of client and professional interaction as reported by professionals in the apparel industry. Design/methodology/approach – This qualitative research involved 23 professionals or individuals who worked for more than ten years in an executive position. The participants, who worked in a variety of positions, in the US apparel industry were interviewed extensively about their professional experiences. Data were analyzed by identifying themes in the interview transcripts using a grounded approach methodology. Findings – The participants described their professional relationships with clients. Clients included individuals in the general public and other industry professionals who used the service or bought the product. The participants, all women, showed similarity or homophily with clients' values, fashion level, age, gender, economic level, and body size. All participants emphasized differences or heterophily with clients in expertise and level of innovation. Practical implications – This information is helpful for new professionals in the apparel industry and other business professionals to understand how to succeed and what to emphasize when relating to clients. Originality/value – This study demonstrates how a grounded approach to interview analysis can add to theory and provide useful information about succeeding in a business environment. Limited research exists about professionals' use of homophily and heterophily to relate to their clients. Homophily and heterophily dimensions (e.g. age, gender, and expertise) used by apparel industry professionals in relating with clients are identified. Also, strategies that these professionals used to create homophily and heterophily are discussed.

Many methods have been developed to measure the body in an effort to capture its dimensions for clothing. Measuring the human body has been important in developing garments tofit the body, and systems have reflected technology, needs of the consumer, andfocus of the apparel industry. The U. S. apparel industry has developed many techniques to measure the body, including custom-fitted to the individual, mass-sized and produced, and now, mass-customized. This paper reviews and evaluates historic and current methods of capturing body measurements, which are presented as linear methods, multiple probe methods, and body form methods, that use one or more of the following elements: point, length, surface, shape, and volume.

The goal of this research was to determine the long-term viability of a sun health message. A multi-part educational intervention on hazards of sun exposure and methods of protection was delivered to fifth- and sixth-grade students, followed by a questionnaire to assess learning of the message. Four years later, participants were tracked and a questionnaire administered to assess retention of the sun health message. No formal sun health educational programs were delivered over the 4-year period. Participants retained the knowledge that sun can cause cancer and skin damage; however, the importance of appearance to these teens seems to have affected decisions about sun protection methods. Four years later, as teens, the students preferred a sun-tanned appearance and rejected methods of sun protection, especially the use of sun-protective clothing.

The purpose was to demonstrate a process to characterize a segment of a university collection from an object base using an existing aesthetic framework. A collection consisting of 160 evening dresses from the 1930s were analyzed for their repetitive and defining features and their dispersion throughout the decade. Dresses were selected as examples of the defining features and analyzed using the concept of structuring within DeLong’s (1998) framework of visual analysis. This process demonstrated how aesthetics could be applied to raise awareness of artifacts within the collection. The result was a characterization of this 1930s collection in terms of defining features that included structuring and the visual result of an integration of layout, surface, and light and shadow.

A well-defined product development process assists the organization to determine its future direction, plan for rapid changes, create new product line profits, and plan for technology adoption and implementation (Thomas, 1993). The goal of this research was to propose an optimal product development process for knitwear companies by examining the process used by a major U.S. sweater company and comparing its process to established processes. Yin's (1984) single case study and Patton's (1990) qualitative research approaches were adapted for data collection. Various methods of collecting data were employed, including interviewing key personnel, making direct observations, and examining written documents. Preliminary suggestions for improving the product development process included extending market research to include end users, using pre-costing early in the process, integrating quality assurance, and using computer-aided-design and product development management software.