Frédéric Dias’s research while affiliated with University College Dublin and other places

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Publications (278)


EWDM: A wavelet-based method for estimating directional spectra of ocean waves
  • Article
  • Full-text available

May 2025

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2 Reads

The Journal of Open Source Software

Daniel Peláez-Zapata

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Frédéric Dias
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Examples of growth coefficient Φ versus temperature T. Note how location-specific temperature-dependent growth functions are required and despite the similarity in the shape growth curves, temperature and species have different relationships in different locations of the world based on their tolerances.
Examples of the vertical distribution of chlorophyll-a.
An example of the vertical distribution of temperature (Ireland).
Chlorophyll-a surface concentration for a one-year period. Satellite data can be used to adapt such values for any location for the proposed model.
Sea surface temperature for a one-year period. Based on specific locations, they can vary significantly, impacting the growth patterns and related effects.

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An Ecologically Consistent Model of Growth for Hard-Bodied Marine Organisms

November 2024

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24 Reads

There are several factors to account for marine growth including but not limited to temperature, salinity, chlorophyll-a content, existing species in the environment and predating. This paper proposes a model of biological growth for hard species on marine structures, which can be compatible with site-specific and realistic ecology while also being able to translate the results for analyses linked to lifetime hydrodynamic or structural effects via commercial software or computing. The model preserves fundamentals of ecological aspects rather than using heuristics or random sampling to data fitting on sparsely collected information. The coefficients used in the proposed model align to the real world, with location-specific values, and can be adapted to new information. The growth model is demonstrated for Mythulis Edulis (blue mussel) colonisation to assess the lifetime hydrodynamic effects for the West Coast of Ireland and the Gulf of Guinea. The model can be extended to any hard growth approach.


Dynamics of Bubble Plumes Produced by Breaking Waves

July 2024

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44 Reads

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4 Citations

Bubble plumes play a significant role in the air–sea interface by influencing processes such as air–sea gas exchange, aerosol production, modulation of oceanic carbon and nutrient cycles, and the vertical structure of the upper ocean. Using acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data collected off the west coast of Ireland, we investigate the dynamics of bubble plumes and their relationship with sea state variables. In particular, we describe the patterns of bubble plume vertical extension, duration, and periodicity. We establish a power-law relationship between the average bubble penetration depth and wind speed, consistent with previous findings. Additionally, the study reveals a significant association between whitecapping coverage and observed acoustic volume backscatter intensity, underscoring the role of wave breaking in bubble plume generation. The shape of the probability distribution of bubble plume depths reveals a transition toward stronger and more organized bubble entrainment events during higher wind speeds. Furthermore, we show that deeper bubble plumes are associated with turbulent Langmuir number La t ∼ 0.3, highlighting the potential role of Langmuir circulation on the transport and deepening of bubble plumes. These results contribute to a better understanding of the complex interactions between ocean waves, wind, and bubble plumes, providing valuable insights for improving predictive models and enhancing our understanding of air–sea interactions. Significance Statement This research contributes to understanding bubble plume dynamics in the upper ocean and their relationship with sea state variables. The establishment of a power-law relationship between the bubble penetration depth and wind speed, along with the association between whitecapping coverage and acoustic backscatter intensity, contributes to improved predictive capabilities for air–sea interactions and carbon dioxide exchange. The identification of the potential influence of Langmuir circulation on bubble plume dynamics expands our understanding of the role of coherent circulations in transporting bubble plumes. Additionally, this study presents a clear methodology using commercial sensors such as an ADCP, which can be easily replicated by researchers worldwide, leading to potential advancements in our comprehension of bubble plume dynamics.


Ocean Wave Directional Distribution from GPS Buoy Observations off the West Coast of Ireland: Assessment of a Wavelet-Based Method

June 2024

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84 Reads

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5 Citations

Knowledge of the directional distribution of a wave field is crucial for a better understanding of complex air–sea interactions. However, the dynamic and unpredictable nature of ocean waves, combined with the limitations of existing measurement technologies and analysis techniques, makes it difficult to obtain precise directional information, leading to a poor understanding of this important quantity. This study investigates the potential use of a wavelet-based method applied to GPS buoy observations as an alternative approach to the conventional methods for estimating the directional distribution of ocean waves. The results indicate that the wavelet-based estimations are consistently good when compared to the framework of widely used parameterizations for the directional distribution. The wavelet-based method presents advantages in comparison with the conventional methods, including being purely data-driven and not requiring any assumptions about the shape of the distribution. In addition, it was found that the wave directional distribution is narrower at the spectral peak and broadens asymmetrically at higher and lower scales, particularly sharply for frequencies below the peak. The directional spreading appears to be independent of the wave age across the entire range of frequencies, implying that the angular width of the directional spectrum is primarily controlled by nonlinear wave–wave interactions rather than by wind forcing. These results support the use of the wavelet-based method as a practical alternative for the estimation of the wave directional distribution. In addition, this study highlights the need for continued innovation in the field of ocean wave measuring technologies and analysis techniques to improve our understanding of air–sea interactions. Significance Statement This study presents a wavelet-based technique for obtaining the directional distribution of ocean waves applied to GPS buoy. This method serves as an alternative to conventional methods and is relatively easy to implement, making it a practical option for researchers and engineers. The study was conducted in a highly energetic environment characterized by high wind speeds and large waves, providing a valuable dataset for understanding the dynamics of marine environment in extreme conditions. This research has implications for improving our understanding of directional characteristics of ocean waves, which is crucial for navigation, offshore engineering, weather forecasting, and coastal hazard mitigation. This study also highlights the challenges associated with understanding wave directionality and emphasizes a need for further observations.



Towards High-Performance Linear Potential Flow BEM Solver with Low-Rank Compressions

January 2024

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89 Reads

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1 Citation

The interaction of water waves with floating bodies can be modeled with linear potential flow theory and numerically solved with the boundary element method (BEM). This method requires the construction of dense matrices and the resolution of the corresponding linear systems. The cost of this method in terms of time and memory grows at least quadratically with the size of the mesh, and the resolution of large problems (such as large farms of wave energy converters) can, thus, be very costly. Approximating some blocks of the matrix with data-sparse matrices can limit this cost. While matrix compression with low-rank blocks has become a standard tool in the larger BEM community, the present paper provides its first application (to our knowledge) to linear potential flows. In this paper, we assess how efficiently low-rank blocks can approximate interaction matrices between distant meshes when using the Green function of linear potential flow. Due to the complexity of this Green function, a theoretical study is difficult, and numerical experiments are used to test the approximation method. Typical results on large arrays of floating bodies show that 99% of the accuracy can be reached with 10% of the coefficients of the matrix.


Improving the sea state forecasts by using local wave observations and the ensembleBMA software

October 2023

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50 Reads

Environmental Data Science

The main goal of this study is to investigate if the publicly available sea state forecasts for the Aran Islands region in the Republic of Ireland can be improved. This improvement is achieved by using the combination of local scale sea state forecasts and Bayesian Model Averaging techniques. The question of a good forecast has been around since the start of forecasting. With current state-of-the-art numerical models, computational power, and vast data availability, we consider whether it is possible to improve model forecasts only by using the combination of publicly available forecasts, free open-source software, and very moderate computational power. It is shown that it is possible to improve the sea state forecast by at least 1% 1\% , and in some cases up to 8% 8\% . The reduction of error is between 6% 6\% and 48% 48\% . With a more careful and specific selection of training parameters, it is possible to improve the forecast accuracy even more. The possibility of extending this local improvement to the whole coastal area around the island of Ireland is explored. Unfortunately, it is currently impossible, due to a lack of live data buoys in the coastal waters. Nonetheless, it is shown that the proposed process is simple and can be implemented by anyone whose livelihood depends on an accurate sea state forecast. It does not require large computational power, model forecasts are publicly available, and there is minimal to no training in forecasting and statistics required to enable one to perform such improvements for one’s area of interest, provided one has access to live wave data.


FIG. 1. Interaction-disorder diagram in which the numbers of the sections pinpoint the regions of the plane where the ground state of the GPE is examined.
FIG. 4. Variable repulsive interactions. Panel (a): speckle potential V (grey solid line) with V0 = 0.044 and eective potential VLL (black solid line) in a domain of length L = 40, 000∆x, with grid step ∆x = 0.0175. The thick orange arrow indicates the absolute minimum of VLL, whereas the thin orange arrows pinpoint the three next-to-lowest minima of VLL. Panel (b): modulus of the ground state |ψ0| computed for dierent values of the nonlinear coecient (solid lines): g(N − 1) = 0 (red), = 0.202 (orange), = 2.02 (green), = 20.2 (turquoise), = 202 (blue), = 2, 020 (violet). The thicknesses of these lines are drecreased for increasing nonlinear coecient. The baselines of the wavefunctions are shifted in order to display more clearly the curves.
FIG. 7. Intermediate and strongly repulsive interactions. Panel (a): ground state of the GPE with the potential shown in Fig. 4a and for a nonlinear coecient g(N − 1) = 2, 020. Wavefunction ψ0 computed by imaginary-time evolution (black solid line), by the Thomas-Fermi approximation ψ TF 0 (blue dashed line) in Eq. (34), by the lansdcape-based approximation ψ TF,LL 0 (green dashed line) and by the perturbative method in Eq. (32) ψ s 0 (magenta dotted line). For the sake of readability, the thicknesses of these curves are dierent. Panel (b): the same quantities as in Panel (a), restricted to the interval [−12.5, 12.5]. Panel (c): the same quantities as in Panel (a), but related to the ground state of the GPE for g(N − 1) = 101. Panel (d): the same quantities as in Panel (c), restricted to the interval [−100, −62.5]. Panel (e): the same quantities as in Panel (a), but related to the ground state of the GPE for g(N − 1) = 5.04. Unlike in Panel (a), ψ TF 0 is here omitted, since the conditions of the Thomas-Fermi approximation are by far not satised. Panel (f): the same quantities as in Panel (e), restricted to the interval [−125, −62.5].
FIG. 10. Schematic quantum-state diagram in the interaction-disorder plane in which the abreviations denote the approximations used for ψ0 throughout the paper: the linear combination of states (LCS) for weakly repulsive interactions, the LL-based approximation in the Lifshitz glass phase, the Thomas-Fermi-like approximation (TF-LL) for intermediate repulsive interactions (σLL < ξ < 1), and the ThomasFermi approach for strongly repulsive interactions (ξ 1). The dashed lines refer to the crossovers between each phase.
Localization landscape for interacting Bose gases in one-dimensional speckle potentials

April 2023

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82 Reads

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4 Citations

Physical review A: General physics

While the properties and the shape of the ground state of a gas of ultracold bosons are well understood in harmonic potentials, they remain for a large part unknown in the case of random potentials. Here, we use the localization-landscape (LL) theory to study the properties of the solutions to the Gross-Pitaevskii equation (GPE) in one-dimensional (1D) speckle potentials. In the cases of attractive interactions, we nd that the LL allows one to predict the position of the localization center of the ground state (GS) of the GPE. For weakly repulsive interactions, we point out that the GS of the quasi-1D GPE can be understood as a superposition of a nite number of single-particle states, which can be computed by exploiting the LL. For intermediate repulsive interactions, we introduce a Thomas-Fermi-like approach for the GS which holds in the smoothing regime, well beyond the usual approximation involving the original potential. Moreover, we show that, in the Lifshitz glass regime, the particle density and the chemical potential can be well estimated by the LL. Our approach can be applied to any positive-valued random potential endowed with nite-range correlations and can be generalized to higher-dimensional systems.


A study of the wave effects on the current circulation in Galway Bay, using the numerical model COAWST

March 2023

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53 Reads

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12 Citations

Coastal Engineering

A model coupling waves and currents is set up for Galway Bay, Ireland, using COAWST. The impact of the coupling on the accuracy of the model is shown to be marginal on the overall statistics. The model is in good agreement with the available in-situ observations that are used for the validation. However a closer look at the data during storms shows a deterioration of the agreement, which is barely improved by the coupling. A special analysis of the different processes ruling the ocean circulation is conducted during Storm Hector (2018/06/14). It shows a strong 7cm wave-induced surge in the back of Galway Bay, and a strong response in terms of currents along the coast of Clare, about 30cms−1. Most of the surge is attributed to the impact of the conservative wave-induced Stokes drift forcing. The response in currents is partly attributed to the Stokes drift forcing terms, but mostly to the wave-enhanced surface roughness. In both cases waves induce an additional transport of mass or momentum, which is then subject to the particular characteristics of the bay.


Citations (70)


... Most of the attenuation in shallow (<20 m) environments involves at least one boundary layer and winds increase sound attenuation at the air-sea interface [14]. Wind-driven white caps and waves create turbulence and bubble plumes that result in an asymmetric effect on background noise at different frequencies: the wind creates large amounts of low-frequency noise through wave breaking and turbulence [15,16], while attenuating high-frequency noise at a higher rate and limiting surface reflectance [17,18]. ...

Reference:

A Reef’s High-Frequency Soundscape and the Effect on Telemetry Efforts: A Biotic and Abiotic Balance
Dynamics of Bubble Plumes Produced by Breaking Waves
  • Citing Article
  • July 2024

... This disadvantage is generally attributed to certain simplifications on the shape of the directional distribution and assumptions such as stationarity, which may not always capture the complexity of ocean waves (Benoit et al., 1997). Wavelet-based methods provide a more flexible approach, thanks to their time-frequency decomposition capabilities (Donelan et al., 1996(Donelan et al., , 2015Krogstad et al., 2006;Peláez-Zapata et al., 2024). This paper presents the EWDM (Extended Wavelet Directional Method), a Python toolkit developed to estimate the directional spectrum of ocean waves using a wavelet-based technique. ...

Ocean Wave Directional Distribution from GPS Buoy Observations off the West Coast of Ireland: Assessment of a Wavelet-Based Method

... With integration of modern methods in the BEM codes, the computational cost can be somewhat reduced allowing for accurate designs and sensitivity studies to be affordable. The limitation has been removed to some extent by integrating many modern methods from BEM literature into marine hydrodynamic BEM solvers (Ancellin et al., 2024). Each block in the influence matrices is the interaction between a group of panels (as illustrated on Fig. 5). ...

Towards High-Performance Linear Potential Flow BEM Solver with Low-Rank Compressions

... This introduces an enormous simplification of the initial problem and strongly reduces its computational complexity because the differential equation (3) is generally easier to solve than the eigenvalue problem (1). Successful applications of localization landscape theory include studies of localization effects in semiconductors [34][35][36] and in ensembles of ultracold atoms placed in disordered optical potentials [37,38] as the most prominent examples. The theory has been extended to deal with many-body problems [39] and provides an alternative way to understand the localization phase diagram of Anderson model in three dimensions [40]. ...

Localization landscape for interacting Bose gases in one-dimensional speckle potentials

Physical review A: General physics

... Here, observations of breaking waves in the outer surf zone are collected using thermal infrared imagery during a field campaign. Smith et al. (2023) worked on the same problem using the same data as in Buscombe and Carini (2019). However, they adopted CNNs as basic feature extractors and a classifier was then trained on top of them in order to classify images of non-breaking, plunging and spilling breaking waves. ...

Pre-computation of image features for the classification of dynamic properties in breaking waves

... For instance, used a morphology-adaptive multifield two-fluid model to study the liquid entrainment based on the shear-off entrainment mechanism on the interfacial wave, which implies that the droplet formation is dominated by the balance between the shear forces and the surface tension forces at the gas-liquid interface [15]. Several other studies have employed volume of fluid and level set methods to study the entrainment processes and the deposition processes [16][17][18][19], as well as the liquid film features and interfacial wave development [20][21][22][23][24][25][26]. Additional studies have investigated the droplet characteristics using different methods, such as Lagrangian framework [13,27,28], the lattice Boltzmann method [29], and the population balance method [30]. ...

Air/water interfacial waves with a droplet at the tip of their crest

... In this study, a pre-operational coastal ocean model is being developed using COAWST (Warner et al. 2010) to better understand coastal dynamics and manage marine resources in the Mississippi Sound and Bight system. COAWST is a state-of-the-art modeling system that has been used to study a variety of regions such as the South Atlantic Bight (Hsu et al. 2023), Southern Atlantic (Mendonça et al. 2023, South China Sea (Thankaswamy et al. 2023), and also near-coastal estuarine areas with riverine influence such as Galway Bay, Ireland (Calvino et al. 2023), Gulf of Lion in Mediterranean Sea (Iglesias et al. 2023), and the Caloosahatchee River Estuary, Florida in northern Gulf of Mexico (Shi et al. 2023). ...

A study of the wave effects on the current circulation in Galway Bay, using the numerical model COAWST
  • Citing Article
  • March 2023

Coastal Engineering

... Details of the four domains are as follows: (i) Cork Harbour is the largest natural harbour of Ireland that situated on the southwest coast. The estuary is characterized by macro-tidal conditions, with a standard spring tide range of 4.2 meters at the harbour entrance ( Fig. 1a) [32]. ...

A study of the sea level and current effects on the sea state in Galway Bay, using the numerical model COAWST
  • Citing Article
  • November 2022

Ocean Dynamics

... For SWAN, the lateral boundary conditions come from a multigrid large-scale WAVEWATCH III ® model described and validated in Calvino et al. (2022). Nested grids refine the model on the Irish Shelf. ...

Current interaction in large-scale wave models with an application to Ireland

Continental Shelf Research

... This chapter discusses the applicability of machine learning for tsunami forecasting and its implications in tsunami early warning. Tsunami forecasting methods using machine learning with diverse settings and architectural building blocks can be found in the recent literature (Fauzi & Mizutani, 2020a, 2020bGiles et al., 2022;Kamiya et al., 2022;Liu et al., 2021;Makinoshima et al., 2021;Mulia et al., 2022;Rim et al., 2022;Rodríguez et al., 2022). A general theoretical basis and simulation workflow relevant to all currently available models are provided to elaborate various applications. ...

Automated Approaches for Capturing Localized Tsunami Response—Application to the French Coastlines