Courtney Blair Rubin’s research while affiliated with University of Pennsylvania and other places

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Publications (2)


Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals in Cosmetics—Reply
  • Article

March 2020

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22 Reads

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4 Citations

JAMA Dermatology

Courtney Blair Rubin

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Bruce A. Brod

We thank Drs Gore and Cohn for their interest in our article¹ and thoughtful comments. We agree that ongoing research is needed; however, we would like to point out several issues. First, many parabens are, in fact, not banned in the European Union. The European Union has banned 5 longer-chain parabens not because of evidence that they are unsafe, but rather because “no information was submitted by industry for the safety evaluation [of these compounds].”² All of the most commonly used parabens, including methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben, along with many others, are considered safe and legal for use as preservatives in Europe.² Although many researchers in the clean beauty movement have expressed concerns about the potential for endocrine disruption by parabens, studies in rats and yeast cells have shown parabens to be thousands to millions of times weaker than estradiol, an endogenous sex hormone.³ Given that women are exposed to much more potent natural estrogens, along with estrogens in oral contraceptive pills and even phytoestrogens in food, the extremely weak estrogenicity of parabens is unlikely to be meaningful. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has done an extensive investigation of the scientific literature on paraben safety and has concluded that parabens are safe in personal care products. The US Food and Drug Administration has also concluded that parabens are safe when used in personal care products.


Natural Does Not Mean Safe—The Dirt on Clean Beauty Products

September 2019

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324 Reads

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45 Citations

JAMA Dermatology

Clean beauty, also known as natural skin care, is having a moment. From 2017 to 2018, the natural skin care market grew by 23% to 1.6 billion dollars, accounting for over 25% of the 5.6 billion dollars of annual skin care sales in 2018.¹ Staunch warnings from influencers such as Gwyneth Paltrow, whose blog Goop warns readers “Do you want antifreeze (propylene glycol) in your moisturizer? We’re going to guess no,”² have ignited fear in consumers who are now hungry for skincare that is safe and nontoxic. However, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has failed to define clean and natural, leaving these labels open to interpretation by nondermatologist retailers, bloggers, and celebrities who have set out to define clean beauty for themselves. While the clean beauty movement has demonized hundreds of compounds, in this Viewpoint, we argue that an arbitrary designation of clean or natural does not necessarily make products safer for consumers.

Citations (2)


... However, the strongest trend that has been observed in the cosmetics market for several years is the increased interest in raw materials and natural products. It should be noted that the term "natural" for many authors [28][29][30] of scientific publications does not necessarily always make products safer for consumers. According to Future Market Insights, the volume of the global natural products market will grow annually by about 5% until 2033 [31]. ...

Reference:

Natural or Synthetic Emollients? Physicochemical Properties of Body Oils in Relation to Selected Parameters of Epidermal Barrier Function
Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals in Cosmetics—Reply
  • Citing Article
  • March 2020

JAMA Dermatology

... Apesar do crescimento no desenvolvimento de cosméticos de origem natural, existem desafios significativos para pesquisadores e indústria, como a identificação e fornecimento contínuo de matérias-primas em escala industrial e o controle de qualidade das substâncias (Gamage;Someya, 2022). A dificuldade de reprodutibilidade química durante o processo de extração e o uso do termo "natural" como estratégia de marketing são outras barreiras (Rubin;Brod, 2019). ...

Natural Does Not Mean Safe—The Dirt on Clean Beauty Products
  • Citing Article
  • September 2019

JAMA Dermatology