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Shape Variability and Classification of Human Hair: A Worldwide Approach

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Abstract

Human hair has been commonly classified according to three conventional ethnic human subgroups, that is, African, Asian, and European. Such broad classification hardly accounts for the high complexity of human biological diversity, resulting from both multiple and past or recent mixed origins. The research reported here is intended to develop a more factual and scientific approach based on physical features of human hair. The aim of the study is dual: (1) to define hair types according to specific shape criteria through objective and simple measurements taken on hairs from 1442 subjects from 18 different countries and (2) to define such hair types without referring to human ethnicity. The driving principle is simple: Because hair can be found in many different human subgroups, defining a straight or a curly hair should provide a more objective approach than a debatable ethnicity-based classification. The proposed method is simple to use and requires the measurement of only three easily accessible descriptors of hair shape: curve diameter (CD), curl index (i), and number of waves (w). This method leads to a worldwide coherent classification of hair in eight well-defined categories. The new hair categories, as described, should be more appropriate and more reliable than conventional standards in cosmetic and forensic sciences. Furthermore, the classification can be useful for testing whether hair shape diversity follows the continuous geographic and historical pattern suggested for human genetic variation or presents major discontinuities between some large human subdivisions, as claimed by earlier classical anthropology.
... far been severely limited by available descriptions of hair. Hairstyle names are culturally specific [Corson 2001;Gittens et al. 2002;Sherrow 2006] and their attributes are often described using subjective, inconsistent and ambiguous terms [Lasisi 2021;Mettrie et al. 2007;. Poor categorization or description has therefore led to systems which do not support the full range of human hairstyles. ...
... Walker [2018] assigns values 1-4 to hair with varying degrees of curliness. Mettrie et al. [2007] introduce 8 classes based on statistical analysis of physical measurements of hair strands from subjects of diverse ancestry. These systems describe only physical characteristics of hair strands, and not styling, so are useful but not sufficient for the task of hairstyle prediction. ...
... Summary. Hair type is reasonably well described in literature [Byrd 2023;Mettrie et al. 2007;Walker 2018]. We adopt the four types of Walker [2018], though use named categories rather than numbered ones [Kim et al. 2022]. ...
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