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A Non-Destructive Method for Assessing Hair Interior and Surface Damage by Near Infrared Spectroscopy
Abstract
This paper reports a non-destructive method for evaluating hair interior and surface damage based on near-infrared (NIR) diffuse reflectance (DR) spectroscopy. It is important to know the extent of chemical damage in the interior and surface proteins of the hair in order to choose an appropriate restoration agent or chemical treatment. Unfortunately, though there are many simple and non-destructive methods for evaluating the hair surface, the existing evaluation methods for monitoring chemical changes in the interior proteins are very complicated and destructive. Therefore, we have attempted to develop a new non-destructive method to evaluate the damage of the hair interior and surface simultaneously by using NIR-DR spectroscopy. The key to this study was the combined application of NIR-DR spectroscopy and principal component analysis to development of a method for the evaluation of hair damage and finding the most suitable wavenumber region (5060—4500 cm-1) for this evaluation. In this study, we developed a new evaluation method that can indicate hair interior and surface damage conditions induced by chemical treatments in a simple, rapid, non-destructive manner based on NIR-DR using a fibre probe on hair
Paper presented at the IFSCC International Conference 2005, Florence, Italy.
This paper reports a non-invasive method for estimating skin thickness by using near infrared diffuse reflectance (NIR-DR) spectroscopy. Skin thickness is an important skin property in cosmetology, dermatology and pharmaceutical science. It varies significantly between the face and other body parts and changes with age and environment factors. Differences in skin thickness reflect the structural conditions of the epidermis and dermis. However, current methods for measuring skin thickness are complex and require cumbersome equipment. Therefore, we herein propose a NIR-DR and partial least squares (PLS) regression method for non-destructive skin thickness estimation. NIR-DR spectra were measured for UV-irradiated and non-irradiated skin on the backs of hairless mice and denuded back skin. Skin thickness increased gradually with the amount of UV irradiation, while changing little with physiological age. To obtain reference data, optical microscope measurements were carried out for denuded skin and total thickness and thickness of epidermis and dermis were determined. PLS regression was performed for the whole spectrum and selected regions specific for particular functional groups in order to estimate total thickness and thickness of epidermis and dermis. In the 6939-5990 cm(-1) and 5242-4609 cm(-1) regions, the bands due to amide groups of proteins appeared to contribute to models with the best coefficients of determination (R-cv(2)) and standard error of cross-validation results; for total thickness, thickness of epidermis, and dermis, these were 0.79 and 25.80 mu m, 0.72 and 21.87 mu m and 0.77 and 8.16 mu m, respectively. The results revealed that the wavenunnbers contributing to the prediction of skin thickness differ between the epidermis and dermis.
Oxidative hair damage was measured with a Fourier transform infrared spectrometer using a high pressure diamond anvil cell. Disulfide bond cleavage by bleaching of thioglycollate waving was distinguished from that caused by bisulfite treatment. Oxidative damage was quantified by normalizing the S=O band intensity (near 1040 cm-1) against various keratin band intensities. The intensity ratio producing the most precise quantitative results for replicate determinations was established. Intensities obtained after spectral subtraction were found to give the best results. The reproducibility of the measurements was also established. Oxidative damage was measured on a variety of hair tresses that were subjected to various cosmetic treatments (e.g. bleaching, waving) and environmental weathering. The technique was found to give reproducible results and was capable of determining absolute levels of sulfonic acid in hair. Furthermore, the method can also be used for measuring sulfonate (-SO3-) and thiosulfonate (-S-SO3-) group concentrations in hair.
Protein is the most abundant component (65-95%) of hair, and has been targeted as an important subject for hair science research. Chemical treatments, such as permanent waving or bleaching, are widely known to be a major cause of hair damage. However, the constituent proteins in the effluent from these treatments have not been characterized in detail. In this study, we performed Tricine-SDS-polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis for detailed analyses of the proteins eluted under various chemical treatment conditions. Effluents from permanent waving or bleaching showed similar electrophoretic profiles, and both types contained a major protein band of approximately 7kDa. Through immunoblot analyses, this protein band was identified as ubiquitin, a ubiquitously distributed protein that mediates non-lysosomal protein degradation in eukaryotic cells. Comparative analyses of the ubiquitin-signal-intensities revealed that natural hair extracts derived from distal parts contained a lower ubiquitin content than those from proximal parts. These results suggested that ubiquitin was released during the course of natural occurring hair damage. Therefore, we speculated that the major components lost from hair were likely to be soluble proteins that were neither keratin intermediate filament proteins nor keratin associated proteins.
Synopsis Methods were established to evaluate primary chemical damage to hair from oxidative and reductive treatments. The effects of subsequent grooming treatments (combing, shampooing, and conditioning) were documented. Analytical methods used to evaluate hair damage included surface analysis through micro-fluorometry, scanning electron microscopy, and Wilhelmy balance wettability. Structural damage was evaluated by studies of dye diffusion, amino acid composition, mechanical properties, and fatigue behavior.
We have evaluated the potential of NIR (near-infrared) spectroscopy as a tool in hair research. We find that this technique is ideally suited for measuring the relative moisture content of hair in situ under practical hair-grooming conditions. It also allows measurement of melanin absorption in the NIR region, where there is no interference from synthetic hair dyes. Thus, rapid evaluation of "lift," the bleaching produced by oxidation dye products, can be performed on hair swatches as well as on live heads.
The ability to continuously examine the interior hair structure throughout a treatment process is very important in designing effective hair products. Microscopy is commonly used to observe the interior of hair, but this method requires a sliced sample, making continuous observation impossible. Use of X-ray computed tomography (CT) as a non-destructive measurement has been proposed, but this method has a disadvantage in that it is impossible to obtain full-color interior images of the sample. Thus, a non-destructive method for continuous, full-color examination of the interior hair structure has been lacking. In this study a new method is proposed that enables non-destructive and continuous measurement of the interior hair structure with color information. In our method, optical CT is used for reconstruction of the interior hair structure. Our new theories enabled us to solve the crucial problem of the large observational error of traditional optical CT systems caused by internal light scattering and to make its practical application possible. A new optical CT system based on our method was implemented. This system displayed sufficient accuracy when the phantom image was measured, and clear and full-color cross-sectional images were obtained without destruction of the sample when human hair was observed. When the bleaching and dyeing processes were continuously measured, changes in the interior hair with time could be observed. These results clearly indicate that our new method provides a powerful tool for research and product development.
Synopsis Oxidation of hair fibers with diperisophthalic acid can produce extensive damage throughout several cuticle layers that is readily observed microscopically. At the same time, no detectable changes in the tensile properties (wet or dry) are detectable. These results are consistent with the hypothesis that the tensile properties of human hair are due primarily to the cortex, with little or no cuticle involvement. human hair. There is a long-standing hypothesis, that the cortex is primarily responsible for the tensile properties of human hair (1), although there is one publication with limited data suggesting the possibility of some cuticle involvement in the tensile properties of hair (2) and some evidence that wool fibers containing a medulla are weaker than non- medullated fibers (3). If the cortex is primarily responsible for the tensile properties of hair fibers, or even if there be only minor cuticle and/or medullary involvement in the tensile properties of hair, then the tensile properties are primarily an index of cortical damage. Therefore, if the tensile properties do not show change, without any further experimental evidence, such data does not stand as an indication of no hair damage. The lack of cuticle involvement in the tensile properties of hair or even minimal in- volvement might seem surprising, because, for a 70-micron hair fiber with a 4-micron- thick band of cuticular material (2), the cuticle represents approximately 22% of the total fiber cross-sectional area. Thus, it would be somewhat surprising if the cuticle were not involved at all in the tensile properties of human hair. With respect to medullary involvement in the tensile properties of hair, such involve- ment has only been demonstrated for selected wool fibers where the medulla represented more than 70 percent of the cross section (3), and such heavy medullation is not common in human hair. A few years ago, we examined an oxidative treatment for hair based on diperisophthalic acid. We found that under certain conditions this reagent could produce extensive
Near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy has been a powerful technique for water content determination and water structure analysis for various kinds of materials for a number of reasons. One is that in situ and nondestructive analysis is possible. The other is that the NIR spectrum
is very sensitive to the environment of water molecules. Yet another is that NIR analysis is applicable both to samples containing a large amount of water and to those having a small amount of water. To date, various kinds of agricultural products, foods, fibers, and industrial products have
been subjected to NIR analysis of water. However, application of NIR water analysis to animal tissues or medical samples is still very rare.
Blood oxygenation and blood volume are two clinically relevant parameters that can be determined noninvasively from near infrared in vivo spectra. As the number of medical applications based on near infrared technology grows. the necessity of extracting the same quality of information from all individuals increases as well. High epidermal melanin content masks the absorption of oxyhemoglobin and deoxyhemoglobin. Near infrared spectra v, ere recorded in vivo from the forearm of subjects with light and highly pigmented skin. The spectra were analyzed using a modified Beer-Lambert Law and a least squares classifier. In the first iteration the analysis included the chromophores oxyhemoglobin, deoxyhemoglobin and water; in the second iteration the analysis included melanin as an additional chromophore. Including melanin in the fit results in a statistically significant (P < 0.05) improvement over the analysis without melanin. This is particularly true for the spectra obtained from highly pigmented skin. The residuals for highly pigmented skin decrease by 2 orders of magnitude when melanin is included and by 1 order of magnitude for the spectra obtained from lightly pigmented skin.
This paper reports in situ noninvasive blood glucose monitoring by use of near-infrared (NIR) diffuse-reflectance spectroscopy. The NIR spectra of the human forearm were measured in vivo by using a pair of source and detector optical fibers separated by a distance of 0.65 mm on the skin surface. This optical geometry enables the selective measurement of dermis tissue spectra due to the skin's optical properties and reduces the interference noise arising from the stratum corneum. Oral glucose intake experiments were performed with six subjects (including a single subject with type I diabetes) whose NIR skin spectra were measured at the forearm. Partial least-squares regression (PLSR) analysis was carried out and calibration equations were obtained with each subject individually. Without exception among the six subjects, the regression coefficient vectors of their calibration models were similar to each other and had a positive peak at around 1600 nm, corresponding to the characteristic absorption peak of glucose. This result indicates that there is every possibility of glucose detection in skin tissue using our measurement system. We also found that there was a good correlation between the optically predicted values and the directly measured values of blood samples with individual subjects. The potential of noninvasive blood glucose monitoring using our methodology was demonstrated by the present study.
The water content of human nail plates was determined using a portable near-infrared (NIR) spectrometer with an InGaAs photodiode array detector. NIR diffuse reflectance (DR) spectra were collected from 108 cut nail plates with different relative humidity and in vivo from fingernails. Partial least-squares (PLS) regression was applied to the NIR spectra in the 1115-1645 nm region to develop calibration models that determine the water content in the cut nail plates and fingernails. A good correlation was obtained between the NIR spectra and the water content measured by nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) for the NIR measurement of both cut nail plates and fingernails. The results indicate that the water content in the nails can be determined very rapidly (1 s) by means of the portable NIR spectrometer and PLS regression.
Increase of labile protein in hair by permanent waving or bleaching
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