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Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations

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Abstract

This study aims to evaluate the skin moisturizing efficacy of formulations containing different concentrations of panthenol. Formulations supplemented with or without 0.5%, 1.0%, or 5.0% panthenol were applied daily to the forearms of healthy subjects. Skin conditions in terms of moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were analyzed before and after 15- and 30-day periods of application. The formulations were also applied after skin washing with sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) to evaluate the immediate effects on TEWL and skin moisture. Panthenol-containing formulations (1.0% and 5.0%) produced significant decreases in TEWL after 30-day applications. In skin washed with SLES, significant reduction of TEWL was evident two hours after application of formulations loaded with panthenol when compared with control and vehicle. It is concluded that skin integrity is maintained by the improved protective effect of 1.0% panthenol added to the formulation.

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... (1) ceramides that help to replenish the deficient lipids in psoriatic skin [71], (2) the versatile Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5), which is a skin protectant with moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties [72,73] and (3) the 'wonder molecule' nicotinamide (also known as niacinamide and Vitamin B3), which is one of the most widely used complimentary ingredients in topical moisturisers [74,75]. ...
... When applied topically, Panthenol is efficiently absorbed into the epidermis and quickly converted into pantothenic acid, which is then converted to Acetyl Coenzyme-A (Acetyl CoA). Acetyl CoA is an essential mediator of many biochemical reactions within skin cells, and is necessary for optimal energy levels, barrier function, moisturisation, elasticity and strength [72,73]. Furthermore, Panthenol can act as both an emollient and a humectant. ...
... As an emollient, it can help seal cracks in the skin, keeping water locked in, which in turn contributes to skin softness and smoothness. As a humectant, it can bind to and hold water effectively, reducing the amount of TEWL through the skin and helping it maintain moisture, softness and elasticity [72,73,78]. ...
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The aim of this chapter is to provide an overview of basic and tailored topical moisturisers and discuss how and why they form the backbone for the management of psoriasis. Our discussion begins by describing the main characteristics of psoriasis and by indicating how alterations in the skin’s integrity and barrier function contribute to the initial development of psoriasis and subsequent changes in psoriasis phenotype. Next, we address the evolution of topical moisturisers to ever more sophisticated and beneficial products, and describe the key biophysical effects exerted on the psoriatic skin by their active ingredients, as well as the myriad benefits offered by fundamental and specialty ingredients. Furthermore, we delineate how topical moisturiser formulation modalities can help to improve compromised skin barrier function and to alleviate the symptoms of psoriasis, cosmetically and/or therapeutically as well as discuss the associated concerns and challenges encountered along the way.
... The first formulation containing dexpanthenol for topical use (Bepanthen™ ointment) was developed over 70 years ago [55]. Pantothenic acid is essential for the proper functioning of the epithelium. ...
... Pantothenic acid is essential for the proper functioning of the epithelium. The compound is part of coenzyme A which acts as a cofactor in numerous enzyme-catalyzed reactions crucial for the metabolism of carbohydrates, fatty acids, proteins, sterols, steroid hormones, and porphyrins, and in the process of gluconeogenesis [55,56]. Topical applications of dexpanthenol, a stable alcoholic analogue of pantothenic acid, rely on its good penetrability into the dermis. ...
... mg of water per gram of stratum corneum. Five measurements were obtained in each region of the forearm before and 30 min after the application [17]. ...
... The probe of the device remained on the skin in the forearm regions for 15 s before and 30 s after the application. The mean value of the three measurements obtained for each region was used in the subsequent calculations [17]. ...
Article
The film-forming effect is an important property of formulations for skin improvement and hair protection. Reflectance confocal microscopy, an advanced imaging technique, is an important tool for its evaluation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the film‐forming properties of cosmetic formulations based on starches and containing a Spirulina maxima extract after their application to skin and hair, using sensorial analysis and instrumental measurements, with emphasis on reflectance confocal microscopy. Two formulations based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin containing or not (Vehicle) a Spirulina maxima dry extract were developed. The rheological behavior and sensorial properties of both formulations were evaluated. The film-forming property on the skin was evaluated in terms of skin hydration by RCM imaging analysis and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The hair tresses were evaluated in terms of mechanical properties and RCM imaging analysis. The formulations showed pseudoplastic behavior and a low hysteresis area. In addition, the presence of Spirulina in the formulation did not interfere in the rheological parameters. Both formulations reduced TEWL and maintained the stratum corneum water content. The protective effect was also observed in the hair, since the application of the formulation with Spirulina showed a better performance in the tensile test when compared to vehicle. Thus, the proposed formulation showed film formation on the skin and hair surface that brought immediate benefits such as a reduction of TEWL. Finally, the formulations were shown to have film-forming effects and their use can be suggested for skin and hair protection against daily damage.
... In here, we compared gene expression with D-panthenol, which is a provitamin B5 as a positive drug. D-panthenol is known to be effective for epidermal wound healing, anti-inflammation, and regenerating properties, and is widely used for various cosmetic products as a skin moisturizer [27,28]. The mRNA expression of HAS-2 and HAS-3 were upregulated by DTA in a dose-dependent manner, but AQP3 expression was not altered by DTA ( Figure 2C). ...
... In this study, we examined the mRNA expression of HASs and AQP3 in DTA-treated HaCaT cells; as results, DTA upregulated gene expression of HAS-2, HAS-3, and AQP3. Interestingly, DTA increased the expression of these genes to a greater extent than D-panthenol, a well-known skin moisturizer [27,28]. We further confirmed that DTA upregulated the expression of HAS-2 and HAS-3 at the protein level using Western blotting. ...
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Dehydrotrametenolic acid (DTA) is a lanostane-type triterpene acid isolated from Poria cocos Wolf (Polyporaceae). Several studies have reported the anti-inflammatory and antidiabetic effects of DTA; however, its effects on the skin are poorly understood. In this study, we investigated the effects of DTA on skin barrier function in vitro and its regulatory mechanism in human keratinocyte cell line HaCaT cells. DTA increased the microRNA (mRNA) expression of natural moisturizing factor-related genes, such as HAS-2, HAS-3, and AQP3 in HaCaT cells. DTA also upregulated the mRNA expression of various keratinocyte differentiation markers, including TGM-1, involucrin, and caspase-14. Moreover, the protein expression of HAS-2, HAS-3, and TGM-2 were significantly increased by DTA. To examine the regulatory mechanisms of DTA, Western blotting, luciferase-reporter assays, and RT-PCR were conducted. The phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) and IκBα were increased in DTA-treated HaCaT cells. In addition, AP-1 and NF-κB transcriptional factors were dose-dependently activated by DTA. Taken together, our in vitro mechanism studies indicate that the regulatory effects of DTA on skin hydration and keratinocyte differentiation are mediated by the MAPK/AP-1 and IκBα/NF-κB pathways. In addition, DTA could be a promising ingredient in cosmetics for moisturizing and increased skin barrier function.
... To address these issues, the selection of substances in skincare formulations that enhance skin moisture retention is crucial. This can be achieved through the combination of humectants, occlusive agents, and emollients [64][65][66][67]. In this study, the skincare products maintain skin integrity and appearance by incorporating humectants such as glycerin, panthenol, and sodium hyaluronate while also providing an occlusive effect via emollients (glyceryl glucoside, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and coco caprylate/caprate). ...
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Tecoma stans belongs to the Bignoniaceae family and possesses various pharmacological activities, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant, and wound-healing activities. Although numerous studies have highlighted the beneficial effects of T. stans extracts, the impacts of different solvents on its biological activities, particularly its inhibitory effect on skin degradation enzymes (collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase assay), have not been reported. This study aims to explore the effects of different solvent extractions on the total phenolic and total flavonoid contents, antioxidant and anti-aging activities, and cytotoxicity. The most suitable extract was selected for incorporation into an anti-aging product. T. stans flowers were extracted using hexane, ethyl acetate, absolute ethanol, and deionized water through maceration. The aqueous extract yielded the highest extraction efficiency (40.73%), followed by absolute ethanol, ethyl acetate, and hexane. The phytochemical screening results revealed that all T. stans flower extracts contained phenolics, flavonoids, terpenoids, and alkaloids. Among the various solvents tested for T. stans flower extraction, absolute ethanol demonstrated the highest total phenolic content (24.10 ± 2.07 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g extract), followed by deionized water (20.83 ± 1.28 mg GAE/g extract). The highest total flavonoid content was observed in the ethyl acetate extract (205.11 ± 7.83 mg catechin equivalents (CE)/g extract), with ethanol showing a significantly lower concentration (140.67 ± 1.92 mg CE/g extract). In terms of antioxidant activity, the aqueous extract exhibited the most potent effects, with IC50 values of 0.600 ± 0.005 mg/mL for the DPPH• assay and 0.207 ± 0.001 mg/mL for the ABTS•+ assay. For anti-aging assays, the absolute ethanolic extract demonstrated the highest enzyme inhibition activity at 1 mg/mL, with collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition rates of 89.49% ± 2.96%, 94.61% ± 2.33%, and 82.56% ± 2.27%, respectively. Moreover, at a concentration of 50 µg/mL, the absolute ethanolic extract exhibited lower cytotoxicity, with human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell viability of 78% ± 8.47%, which was significantly higher than that of the other extracts. An anti-aging gel containing 0.05% w/w of the ethanolic T. stans extract demonstrated physical and physicochemical stability during three months of storage at ambient temperatures, 4 °C, 45 °C, as well as after six cycles of heating/cooling tests. These findings suggest that the ethanolic extract of T. stans flower has potential as a safe and effective anti-aging agent for cosmeceutical products.
... This emphasizes the need to consider the impact of other ingredients such as panthenol (vitamin B5), which is known for its humectant properties 30 . Previous studies have shown that formulations with 1.0% w/w and 5.0% w/w panthenol effectively reduce TEWL and preserve skin barrier function, even at low concentrations 31 . ...
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Tamarind gum (TG) is a natural polysaccharide rich in phenolic and flavonoid compound constituents that provide potent antioxidant activity. This study aimed to develop a gel-based cream containing TG and investigate various skin-related parameters for cosmetic applications. TG was extracted from the seed of tamarind with distilled water. The phenolic and flavonoid contents were quantified using the Folin-Ciocalteu and colorimetric methods. A formulation comprising 0.3% w/v of TG was prepared by loading it into an oil-in-water (O/W) gel-based cream. A benchmark product was used as a control for comparison. In vivo investigations were performed over four weeks on the forearms of 26 healthy female volunteers aged 30-55. The product’s effects on transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin color, skin hydration, and skin elasticity were assessed by skin analyzer (Cortex Technology, model DermaLab® Combo). The total phenolic and flavonoid contents of TG were 44.60±14.01 mg GAE/g and 194±27.22 mg QE/g, respectively. The gel-based cream containing 0.3% w/v TG exhibited substantially higher TEWL percentage changes in week four. The skin melanin index decreased and skin lightening increased. Skin hydration gradually increased throughout the study period. Moreover, elasticity improved in all parameters, including Young’s modulus (E), retraction time (R), and viscoelasticity (VE). In summary, TG is a sustainable natural resource with potential antioxidant activities. It is an effective cosmetic active ingredient that may address skin health issues and improve overall skin appearance.
... 56,59 Other widely used ingredients in dermo-cosmetic products, pro-vitamin B3 and glycerin, can reduce TEWL to increase International Journal of Dermatology 2024 One Acne TM : A holistic approach to acne management Review Article hydration and keep skin moisturized. 62,63 However, hyaluronic acid is a prime component of skincare products because it improves skin hydration by enhancing water-retaining aspects of the skin barrier, stimulating collagen and elastic production, and augmenting soft tissue. 64,65 Topical hyaluronic acid as an adjunct to fractional laser treatment was also found to significantly enhance acne scar improvement and patient satisfaction vs. fractional laser treatment alone (N = 242; P < 0.0001). ...
Article
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Acne and sensitive skin can take a profound toll on patients' well‐being, which can be exacerbated if the conditions are experienced together. This narrative review aims to identify appropriate treatments to facilitate a holistic management approach to acne (One Acne™), sensitive skin, and acne‐induced sequelae and describe the role of treatments in improving skin quality. Topical retinoids are considered the preferred first‐line option for acne treatment by dermatologists, either as monotherapy or in combination with other treatments, because of their ability to target various aspects of the disease. Tretinoin, trifarotene, adapalene, and tazarotene have all been assessed in clinical studies for managing acne‐associated scarring, with varying success, with the latter three reported to improve skin quality. Moreover, some corrective procedures, e.g., injectable non‐animal stabilized hyaluronic acid (NASHA) fillers, have proven effective for treating acne scarring. Both treatment types may complement each other to provide optimal treatment outcomes and patient satisfaction, as observed in several patients receiving concomitant treatment with NASHA fillers/topical trifarotene. Adjunctive use of cleansers, moisturizers, and photoprotection‐containing ingredients such as vitamin B3, glycerin, or pro‐vitamin B3 may also complement drug/corrective treatments to reduce skin irritation and risk of scarring, as well as improve skin hydration, tone, and overall appearance. This narrative review highlights that comprehensive skincare regimens should be used throughout acne patients' journeys to reduce treatment‐related irritation, improve treatment outcomes, adherence, and satisfaction, and enhance overall skin quality. Patients with sensitive skin should choose tailored skincare products to maintain skin barrier integrity and restore skin function.
... In particular, several moisturizers and emollients have been variously reported to be helpful and safe for daily routine in patients with psoriasis, as they relieve clinical symptoms, reduce friction and consequential irritation and reduce disease exacerbations. [11][12][13] Therefore, the development of an effective steroid-sparing cream with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and emollient properties is desirable. The results of our study suggest that the tested medical device, which contains primarily furfuryl palmitate, tocopherol, and dimethicone, may represent a valid option to consider in mild-to-moderate psoriasis of sensitive areas and folds. ...
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Purpose Psoriasis affecting sensitive areas and folds represents a therapeutic challenging as the skin in these areas may be more prone to local pharmacological side effects. The aim of this prospective, randomized, open-label study was to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of a new prescription emollient device (PED) as a cream containing primarily furfuryl palmitate (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, soothing), tocopherol (antioxidant), and dimethicone (occlusive) for the treatment of psoriasis localized to difficult-to-treat areas. Patients and Methods Thirty patients (14M/16F) with mild-to-moderate psoriasis of sensitive areas such as face, vulva, scrotum, pubic area, neck (15 cases), and of folds including axillary fossa, intergluteal cleft, submammary/inguinal folds, and umbilicus (15 cases) were consecutively enrolled and instructed to apply the cream twice daily for 8 weeks. Efficacy was assessed at baseline, at 4 and 8 weeks by measuring the degree of erythema, scaling, infiltration and pruritus using clinical, instrumental and subject-completed Visual Analog Scale (VAS) assessments. At the end of the study, the Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) of efficacy was performed. Results Statistically significant reductions in erythema, scaling, infiltration, and itching scores were observed at 8 weeks compared to baseline. In addition, IGA efficacy score was clear in 7 cases and almost clear in 4 cases for psoriasis of sensitive areas and clear in 5 cases and almost clear in 4 cases for psoriasis of folds. No relevant side effects were observed in any of the groups. Conclusion Our results suggest that the tested PED containing antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, soothing and occlusive agents may represent a valid therapeutic option for mild-to-moderate psoriasis of sensitive areas and folds in monotherapy or in combination with pharmacological agents if necessary.
... It was determined that the formulation's improved protective effect of 1.0% panthenol added to the formulation maintains skin integrity. The main reasons synthetic compounds are used in formulations are their quick action, economical nature, and easy accessibility [17]. ...
Chapter
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Cosmetics, a captivating category of over-the-counter products that enhance appearance and promote skin health, have become ubiquitous in modern society. Initially associated with altering one’s appearance, cosmetics have evolved beyond their traditional beauty role to encompass skincare and the treatment of various skin conditions. While numerous chemicals can be utilised in cosmetic formulations, key ingredients include water, emollients, humectants, surfactants, preservatives, antioxidants and ultraviolet (UV) filters. With the rise in consumer preferences for clean beauty, silicone- and paraben-free cosmetics and cruelty-free testing, safe and effective herbal and plant-based products have gained significance. Researchers are actively exploring the development of natural cosmetics, leveraging the synergistic properties of these substances. Nanoformulations such as liposomes, nanoparticles and emulsions have been investigated and proven safer and more efficient than conventional cosmetics. This chapter provides a comprehensive overview of the utilisation of these ingredients in cosmetics, their specific effects on product development and properties, emerging alternatives in the personal care market, the widespread adoption of nanotechnology in various scientific fields, and its impact on the advancement of personal care products.
... 36 Panthenol is a widely used vitamin B nutritional supplement, which protects the skin and mucous membranes with excellent moisturizing effect. 37 In this study, a series of matrine-panthenol (MaPa) DESs with different molar ratios were designed and prepared by combining density functional theory (DFT) calculation with experiments. MaPa DESs were used to extract HT from olive leaves with the assistance of ultrasound without the need for an additional separation process. ...
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In this study, an ultrasonic assisted natural deep eutectic solvent (DES) was used to extract hydroxytyrosol (HT) from olive leaves. The optimal extraction conditions of the MaPa-4 concentration, extraction time and solid–liquid ratio were obtained by single factor experiments. The formation mechanism of MaPa and its interaction with HT were analyzed by FTIR, ¹H-NMR and density functional theory (DFT) calculation. Then, MaPa-4 and water extracts obtained under the optimal extraction conditions were selected for a series of efficacy tests. MaPa-4 extract demonstrated low cytotoxicity, good biocompatibility, and excellent anti-inflammatory and bacteriostatic properties. Overall, MaPa-4, as an environmentally friendly and efficient solvent, was combined with ultrasound treatment to develop an efficient, green and feasible method to extract HT from olive leaves. Keywords: Hydroxytyrosol; Deep eutectic solvent; Single-factor experiment; Bacteriostatic; Anti-inflammatory; Antioxidant.
... In the measurements, the aquadestilata was used as a blank. The SPF value was calculated using the Mansur equation [12]: ...
... Formulations with 1% (w/w) of dexpanthenol have a moisturizing effect on the skin, whereas lower dexpanthenol concentrations (0.5% (w/w)) do not have a significant effect on skin barrier and skin moisture. 23 Based on the obtained results, we conclude that half of the tested cosmetic products contain dexpanthenol in concentrations, which are effective on the skin according to literature data (≥1% (w/w)). These products are scattered among all price ranges and are most concentrated among the affordable cosmetics (10-15€ per 50 ml of the cosmetic product, Figure 1). ...
Article
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Background: Individual B vitamins have many favourable effects on the skin and are common cosmetic ingredients. However, their formulation is demanding due to stability issues, which consequently affect the products´ quality. Aims: We aimed to determine the quality (labelling accuracy, content determination, and content-related quality control) and stability under long-term and accelerated storage conditions of a representative sample of commercial cosmetics containing the most common B vitamins - nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin. Methods: Cyanocobalamin was determined by a previously published stability-indicating HPLC-DAD method for the simultaneous determination of all hydrophilic vitamins. This method was additionally simplified and adjusted for the time-effective analysis of nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, and pyridoxine. Both methods were properly validated. Results: All labelled B vitamins were present in the 36 tested products, mostly in contents, reported effective on the skin. Thus, a straightforward correlation between vitamin contents and product prices was not observed. The content-related quality control of eight products, which quantitively specify their content, revealed significantly lower nicotinamide contents (47% and 57%) in two products and appropriate or higher nicotinamide (102-112%) and dexpanthenol (100-104%) contents than declared in the remaining products. The 6-month long-term and accelerated stability studies demonstrated the products' physical stability, but also revealed dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin degradation, while nicotinamide was mostly stable in the tested products. Conclusions: The obtained results provide an inside into the quality of commercial vitamin B cosmetics and highlight the importance of stability testing in the formulation of quality, efficient and safe cosmetics.
... After application, it transforms into pantothenic acid, which has fundamental role in skin epithelial function (4). Panthenolbased formulations can improve skin hydration and decrease transepidermal water loss (5). Therefore, it is widely used in dry and damaged skin treatment. ...
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Introduction. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of the carbomer concentration (used as the gelling agent, in the range 0.5 - 2.0%) on textural and sensory characteristics of gels with 3% panthenol using sensory analysis as subjective and texture analysis as an objective assessment method. An active substance in the gels was panthenol, which also acted as a neutralizing agent of the carbomer. Participants and methods. Twenty female panelists, aged between 20 and 36, participated in the sensory study and had to fulfill a questionnaire regarding product attributes before, during and after application on the skin. Texture analysis was performed on CT3 Texture Analyzer, after each week for a month, and the following parameters were calculated: hardness cycle 1, hardness cycle 2, cohesiveness, adhesiveness, resilience and springiness. Results. The results showed that gels were stable over time and the structure of the gels was preserved regardless of compression. An increase in hardness and resilience was followed by an increase in the concentration of carbomer, while adhesiveness, cohesiveness and springiness did not differ much among different gels. The same trend was noticed when gels were compared during time. Sensory analysis confirmed findings of texture analysis and showed that with the increment of carbomer concentration, stickiness and density also enhanced, while absorption rate and spreadability decreased. Gel with 1% carbomer was chosen by the majority of panelists as favorite and as a gel they would regularly use. Conclusion. The methods of textural and sensory analysis represent valuable approaches in drug/cosmetic product design because they offer insight in the compliance of patients/consumers.
... Aloe vera barbadensis leaf juice, 39 niacinamide, 32,33 trehalose, 40 and panthenol. 41 These active ingredients, and especially Aloe vera, are known to increase skin hydration through a humectant mechanism. 39 This was corroborated by our findings, which showed significant improvement of dry facial skin during and after 4 weeks of daily application of formulation 3. ...
Article
Background: Common skin conditions, such as irritated, dry, aging and oily skin or dark eye circles with periorbital edema, usually do not require pharmaceutical therapy in form of dermatological drugs. They can, however, still affect the quality of life significantly. With the advent of newer cosmetics, a more targeted treatment of these dermatological conditions has become available to the public. There are few clinical studies investigating the efficacy and safety of cosmetics, leaving consumers exposed to potentially false claims of the cosmetic industry. This study aims to assess the efficacy and safety of a novel skin care series addressing the aforementioned five common skin conditions. Methods: This open-label, single-center, 4-week, prospective clinical study evaluated the efficacy and safety of five novel skin care formulations, each targeting one of five common skin issues in 176 study subjects. The primary endpoint parameters for the change of irritated skin, dark and puffy eyes, dry skin, aging skin and oily skin were assessed through validated questionnaires, scales and biomedical devices. Results: After four weeks of topical application of each formulation of a new targeted skin care, a significant improvement in all primary endpoints was detected. No undesirable effects occurred during this study. Conclusion: This study showed a significant improvement of five common dermatological conditions with a novel targeted skin care series. Moreover, this study leads the way for an overdue critical assessment and certification of cosmetic product claims.
... Ingredients that exhibit occlusive properties include petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oils and silicone derivatives [25]. Petrolatum, also known as petroleum jelly, is the most popular occlusive [16,22,26,34]. Petrolatum is a semi-solid at room temperature, consisting of a highly refined mixture of short and long-chain alkanes, microcrystalline wax, and mineral oils. ...
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Moisturizers are one of the most widely used preparations in cosmetics and have been extensively used to soften the skin for consumers. Moisturizers work effectively in combating dry skin which may cause pain, tightness, itch, stinging, and/or tingling. The aim of this review is to evaluate published studies on the history, ingredients, preparation processes, characteristics, uses, and applications of moisturizers. Moisturizers bridge the gap between medicine and consumer goods by being used to make the skin more beautiful and healthy. In the future, in moisturizer therapy, the capacity to adapt specific agents to specific dermatological demands will be crucial. Cosmetically, moisturizers make the skin smooth by the mechanism of increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, hence exerting its most vital action, which is moisturizing action and maintaining a normal skin pH.
... The average DPPH scavenging activity of panthenol at a concentration of 100 mg/mL was 21.81 ± 4.81%. Panthenol is commonly used in cosmetic products as a humectant that minimizes transepidermal water loss and provides skin protective effects [68]. In addition, panthenol promotes wound healing and rarely causes skin irritation after application [69]. ...
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The widely reported adverse effects of synthetic ingredients encourage the development of green cosmeceuticals to achieve Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 3. The waste product of mangosteen (mangosteen peel) was utilized in the formulation to reduce waste production corresponding to SDG 12, in addition to its anti-aging and pigmentation control effects. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate novel herbal face creams containing standardized mangosteen peel extract. The mangosteen creams were formulated using natural ingredients and were evaluated for their organoleptic characteristics, rheology, spreadability and pH. Furthermore, an accelerated stability study, freeze–thaw stability study and centrifugation test were conducted. In addition, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays were conducted to assess its antioxidant effects, whereas tyrosinase inhibitory assay was conducted to determine its anti-tyrosinase activity. The formulated creams appeared light yellowish-brown and homogenous without phase separation. The creams displayed shear-thinning behavior and optimal pH which was ideal for topical application. The creams were stable after being subjected to various stability tests and were shown to have antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activity. In conclusion, the development of mangosteen-based green cosmeceutical face cream is in line with SDG 3 and 12. It is expected to be used as a safe and effective alternative to synthetic products.
... Panthenol is an active substance used in dermatology to protect the skin's health and treat defects in the morphology of the stratum corneum [15]. In cosmetology, the skin hydration, softening, and barrier functions of panthenol are utilized [15,16]. Panthenol does not have a confirmed direct hair growth-promoting effect [17], but it is used as a constituent in various hair growthpromoting formulations [18,19]. ...
Article
PurposeThis double-blind randomized placebo-controlled clinical study aimed to investigate the efficacy and safety of hair loss prevention shampoo with salicylic acid (0.2%), panthenol (0.2%), and niacinamide (0.1%) in alopecia patients.MethodsA total of 42 subjects completed the 24-week clinical study. A series of clinical examinations, counting of the number of hairs number on the crown, and visual and subject survey evaluations were performed at baseline and 8, 16, and 24 weeks after use to evaluate the efficacy and safety of the shampoo for preventing hair loss.ResultsThe primary endpoint was the number of hairs on the crown, which showed a significantly greater increase (17.76%) in the treatment group than in the placebo group at 24 weeks after use (p < 0.05). In the intention-to-treat population, the secondary endpoint, visual evaluation of hair loss symptoms, the crown, the line of forelock, and hair thickness also showed significantly greater increases in the treatment group than in the placebo group (p < 0.05) at 24 weeks after use. Safety evaluations confirmed no abnormal symptoms in the experimental and placebo groups.Conclusions Therefore, this study suggests that shampoo treatment can help prevent hair loss in patients with alopecia.
... Moreover, the integrity of endothelial and epithelial components can be also sustained by the protective effect of several kinds of formulations based on DL-panthenol (pro vitamin B5) and on hyaloronic acid. Mostly, this glycosaminoglycan has appeared as one on the main component of topical nasal preparations because its well-known functions during the regeneration process [8][9][10][11]. ...
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Epistaxis is one of the most frequent hemorrhages resulting from local or systemic factors. Its management without hospitalization has prompted an interest in locally applied hemostatic agents. Generally, the therapy approaches involve sprays or creams acting as a physical barrier, even used as tampons or gauze. In this study, we have investigated the activity of Emoxilane®, a combination of sodium hyaluronate, silver salt, α-tocopherol acetate and D-panthenol, which is known to be able to separately act in a different biological manner. Our in vitro results, obtained on endothelial and nasal epithelial cells, have shown that the association of these molecules presented a notable antioxidant activity mainly due to the α-tocopherol and D-panthenol and a significant antimicrobial role thanks to the silver compound. Moreover, remarkable hemostatic activity was found by evaluating plasmin inhibition attributable to the sodium hyaluronate. Interestingly, on human plasma, we have confirmed that Emoxilane® strongly induced the increase of thrombin levels. These data suggest that the use of this association could represent an appealing pharmacological approach to actively induce hemostasis during epistaxis. Our future perspective will aim to the creation of a formulation for an easy topical application in the nose which is able to contrast the bleeding.
... Tyrosinase activity and melanin production was reduced in both in-vitro and in-vivo assays, using the B16F10 cells and zebrafish embryos [128]. Likewise, nano-encapsulated ellagic acid from pomegranate peels showed the most potent inhibition effect against tyrosinase enzyme with an Ic 50 value of 38.3 ± 0.09 µg/ mL, making it the ideal whitening agent [107]. ...
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As the largest organ in the human body, the skin should be protected from various harmful chemicals and pollutants from the surrounding environment and ultraviolet (UVA/UVB) radiation emitted from sunlight. This has prompted formulation scientists to embark on new technology to formulate cosmetics free of synthetic chemicals using natural plant-based extracts as the replacement. Natural phytoanti-oxidants, viz. catechin, quercetin and gallic acid, are polyphenols whose therapeutic values (antioxidative, antityrosinase, antiviral and antimicrobial) are underutilized. Plant-based nanoemulsions offer an efficient and safe topical delivery system for improving the skin and regenerative treatment. The bioavailability of the phytoanti-oxidants for molecular-level skin repair is enhanced by better permeation of the nanoemulsions’ nano-sized particles through the stratum corneum. This review highlights several phytoconstituent-containing nanoemulsions and their bioactivities for cosmetic applications. The mechanisms of skin improvement for anti-aging skin are also presented in detail. In short, nanoemulsion technology is a powerful tool for an effective topical delivery system of potent skin-protecting and rejuvenating plant-based extracts. With increasing demand from consumers worldwide for nano-formulated phytohormones or phytoextractives, nanoemulsions will see a new dimension with better future prospects.
... -7 of 10 et al. 63 Niacinamide has also been reported to improve skin barrier function and increase SC thickness in a dose dependent manner, 31 to improve corneocyte maturity, 64 and to be active against acne. 65 Dexpanthenol is a humectant and has been reported to improve SC hydration and to improve skin barrier function, [66][67][68] play an important role in the synthesis of free fatty acids 69 and in reducing keratinocyte growth factor overexpression which is important for correct differentiation. 69,70 In addition to its humectant properties, glycerin has also been shown to improve barrier function in damaged skin models using a TEWL measure. ...
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Background Topical moisturizing products are widely used to alleviate the problems associated with xerotic skin. Their use affects many properties of the stratum corneum (SC) in a complex and interrelated manner. The range of measurement techniques available to the researcher has increased in recent years. However, few studies have looked for correlations between the different techniques for assessing how aspects of xerotic skin change over time as a result of topical moisturizer usage. Objectives A 3‐week in vivo study using an oil‐in‐water based moisturizing product and an untreated site was conducted to determine the clinical significance of and any correlations between a range of different approaches for the measurement of skin lipid content and also skin hydration and visual grading of dry skin. Methods A range of traditional and more recently developed skin measurement techniques have been used to examine a variety of SC properties in normal and xerotic skin during topical moisturizer usage. Results In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and analysis of SC lipids from tape strips both showed an increase in SC lipid level and organization after 3 weeks of moisturizer usage on xerotic skin. Hydration, measured both optically and electrically, also increased and skin barrier function improved, with strong correlations between the different measures of dryness being observed. Conclusions Strong correlations were observed between the skin measurements for lipid assessment and skin hydration with regard to the assessment of xerotic skin, providing valuable new information for future in vivo clinical research into dry and atopic skin. Keywords biophysical assessment, skin barrier, skin hydration, topical moisturizers, Xerosis
... Panthenol (2,4-dihydroxy-N -(3-hydroxypropyl) −3,3dimethylbutanamide), also known as provitamin B 5 , pantothenyl alcohol or pantothenol [12] , is the biologically active alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid (vitamin B 5 ) [13] . Once panthenol penetrates the skin, it oxidizes into pantothenic acid, which is a constituent of skin and hair [14] , and a component of coenzyme A that plays an important role in the metabolism of proteins, fatty acids, sterols, carbohydrates, steroid hormones, gluconeogenesis and porphyrins, because is an essential nutrient [ 4 , 14-16 ]. ...
Article
The first CE methodology enabling the enantiomeric separation of panthenol was developed in this work. Electrokinetic chromatography with cyclodextrins (CD-EKC) was the CE mode employed for this purpose. The effect of different experimental variables such as the nature and concentration of the cyclodextrin, the temperature and the separation voltage was investigated. The best enantiomeric separation was obtained with 25 mM (2-carboxyethyl)-β-CD (CE-β-CD) in 100 mM borate buffer (pH 9.0), with a separation voltage of 30 kV and a temperature of 30°C. Under these conditions, an enantiomeric resolution of 2.0 in an analysis time of 4.2 min was obtained, being the biologically active enantiomer D-panthenol (dexpanthenol) the second-migrating enantiomer. The analytical characteristics of the method were evaluated in terms of precision, accuracy, selectivity, linearity, LOD, and LOQ, showing a good performance for the quantitation of dexpanthenol in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. The enantiomeric impurity (L-panthenol) could be detected at a 0.1 % level with respect to the majority enantiomer, allowing to accomplish the requirements of the ICH guidelines. The method was also successfully applied to study the stability of panthenol under abiotic and biotic conditions and its toxicity on non-target organisms (the aquatic plant Spirodela polyrhiza).
... It has already been shown that dexpanthenol, which is widely used in topical dermatological treatments, stabilizes the barrier function of the skin, 11 stimulates the regeneration of the skin 12 and facilitates wound healing. 13 In contrast to a study by Lokkevik et al. which showed no beneficial effects of dexpanthenol during radiotherapy, 14 a later clinical trial by Schmuth et al. exhibited that the use of a dexpanthenol-containing emollient ameliorates radiodermatitis without determining the underlying molecular mechanisms. ...
Article
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This study aimed to investigate the molecular effects of radiation and subsequent aftercare treatment with dexpanthenol‐containing ointment and liquid on established full‐thickness 3D skin models depicting acute radiodermatitis and mucositis. To mimic radiomucositis and radiodermatitis, non‐keratinized mucous membrane and normal human skin models were irradiated with 5 Gray. Afterwards, models were treated topically every second day with dexpanthenol‐containing ointment or liquid in comparison with placebo and untreated controls. On day 7 after irradiation, histological examination showed impairments in irradiated models. In contrast, models treated with dexpanthenol‐containing ointment or liquid showed a completely restored epidermal part. While gene expression profiling revealed an induction of genes related to a pro‐inflammatory milieu, oxidative stress and an impaired epidermal differentiation after irradiation of the models, aftercare treatment with dexpanthenol‐containing ointment or liquid revealed anti‐oxidative and anti‐inflammatory effects and had a positive effect on epidermal differentiation and structures important for physical and antimicrobial barrier function. Our findings confirm the potential of our established models as in vitro tools for the replacement of pharmacological in vivo studies regarding radiation‐induced skin injuries and give indications of the positive effects of dexpanthenol‐containing externals after radiation treatments as part of supportive tumor treatment.
... It has been noticed from the questionnaire's results that the most common side effects, are skin roughness, Xeroderma, and Erythroderma. These skin disorders could be healed by using moisturizing creams, such as the creams that contain Aloe vera and lanolin extracts, or contain materials that help skin restoration and maintaining its safety such as panthenol and vitamin E [22,23]. As for the itching and Erythroderma, ointments that contain a blood vessel constrictor such as zinc oxide can be used [24,25]. ...
Article
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COVID-19 caused by SARS-CoV-2 very shortly turned into a global pandemic infecting more than 2 million people. The symptoms of this disease are acute respiratory illness, hyperthermia, cough, sore throat, breathlessness and diarrhea. In the absence of specific treatment, preventive measures (physical distancing, cleansing, personal hygiene) can only reduce the spread of this disease. However, over use and wrong mixing of these disinfectants and detergents for cleansing can cause several side effects on skin, respiratory system and eyes. The present study aimed to evaluate the use of detergents and disinfectants among a sample of Syrian community to locate the side effects arising due to the chronic and intensive exposure to them. A questionnaire is prepared for the survey followed by ecommendations to overcome the side effects. The questionnaire's results indicate Sodium hypochlorite as the major disinfectant (75.6%) while hand-cleansing agent was mainly (93.3%) soap. The most common side effects of these disinfectants were Xeroderma (26.77%), Erythroderma/itchy skin (14.8%) and irritation in the nasal mucous membranes (13.81%). Treatment for these side effects were moisturizing creams (53.54%) while the respiratory patients were cured in a well-ventilated rooms with the regular use of surgical masks (26.80%), medicines (9.03%) and no treatments (18.84%). The study is unique for three reasons: First among its kinds to be conducted in the Syrian society. Second, it compares the advantages and disadvantages in using disinfectants. Third, it provides scope to other countries to experiment in the appropriate usage of disinfectants.
... In a context of IND management, the effect of dexpanthenol-based products have been evaluated as treatment or prevention product through multiple clinical studies [17][18][19][20][21]. Another study in Thailand demonstrated the ability of 5% Dexpanthenol-based ointment to significantly decreased the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) upon an IND episode from acute diarrhea [22]. This is supported by several other studies demonstrating the ability of dexpanthenol to decrease the TEWL significantly and increase skin moisturization in various skin conditions, regardless of the galenic of the investigational product [23][24][25][26]. ...
Article
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The prevalence of nappy rash or napkin dermatitis in Thailand infants aged 1–24 months is 36.1%. Dexpanthenol-containing nappy creams are clinical validated and effective in treating napkin dermatitis. This study explores the real-world usage satisfaction and perceived effectiveness of a 5% Dexpanthenol-containing product as a preventive strategy for napkin dermatitis. Respondents were mothers with babies between 6–12 months of age, who purchased and used a 5% Dexpanthenol-containing product (Bepanthen® Ointment) in the past one month. An online study collected respondents’ satisfaction with the product and its benefits and properties. A total of 300 respondents (52% frequent users and 48% as-needed users) completed the study. Over 90% of respondents reported that their babies experienced less nappy-related discomfort, crying, fidgeting and sleep disruption after applying the nappy care product. Almost all respondents (96%) were satisfied with the product. Notably, frequent users of the product reported higher rates of satisfaction than as-needed users (62% vs. 43%; p < 0.05). This high level of satisfaction was associated with the moisturizing properties and long-lasting skin protection provided by the dexpanthenol-containing product. Our findings from a real-world setting further validate the use of dexpanthenol-containing products as a preventive strategy for napkin dermatitis in Thai infants.
... Dexpanthenol supports skin regeneration by enhancing epidermal differentiation and facilitates wound healing [9][10][11]; it also showed activity in the prevention of biofilm formation and has anti-inflammatory effects [12,13]. Furthermore, dexpanthenol acts as a moisturizer and skin barrier enhancer [14][15][16][17]. In dry skin conditions, it compensates for reduced hydration by increasing water content and by beneficially influencing the molecular mobility of the stratum corneum lipid lamellae and proteins [9,11,18]. ...
Article
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With the availability of new technologies, the number of subjects undergoing medical and cosmetic interventions is increasing. Many procedures (e.g., ablative fractional laser treatment) resulting in superficial/minor wounds require appropriate aftercare to prevent complications in wound healing and poor cosmetic outcome. We review the published evidence of the usefulness of topical dexpanthenol in postprocedure wound healing and the associated mechanisms of action at the molecular level. A search in the PubMed and Embase databases was performed to query the terms dexpanthenol, panthenol, superficial wound, minor wound, wound healing, skin repair, and postprocedure. Search results were categorized as clinical trials and in vitro studies. In vitro and clinical studies provided evidence that topically applied dexpanthenol promotes superficial and postprocedure wound healing. Latest findings confirmed that dexpanthenol upregulates genes that are critical for the healing process. The gene expression data are of clinical relevance as evidenced by prospective clinical studies indicating that topical dexpanthenol accelerates wound healing with rapid re-epithelialization and restoration of skin barrier function following skin injury. It can therefore be inferred that topical dexpanthenol represents an appropriate and state-of-the-art treatment option for superficial postprocedure wounds, especially when applied early after the superficial skin damage.
... It is highly hygroscopic and therefore effectively moisturizes the skin. It regenerates the wound healing process, supports the functioning of the skin as a protective barrier, and what is important, it is well tolerated and does not cause skin irritation [25]. Vitamin E is the most commonly present vitamin in preparations that care for children's skin. ...
Article
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Introduction : The skin is an organ which plays many important functions. It is e.g. a highly specialized barrier and protects against mechanical trauma and UV radiation. Moreover it participates in the synthesis of vitamin D and also participates in the immune system. The skin of a newborn needs specific treatment due to its functional and anatomical differences. Skin of the baby achieves similarity to adult skin in 3 years old child. Signifficant difference included higher body surface vs. volume ratio which increases the permeability for potentially undesirable substances. Moreover the thinner stratum corneum of the epidermis and neutral pH provides insufficient protection against irritations and microorganisms. Therefore the skin of the newborn requires special care and cosmetics as well as application of skin care methods which should take into account morphological and anatomical dissimilarity. Materials and methods : The study was conducted on 125 parents, living in the West Pomeranian region, on the basis of the diagnostic survey method, using the author’s questionnaire survey. Conclusions : The parents have awareness about the composition nursing products and cosmetics. For the respondents, the internet and the doctor were the most important sources of information about child skin care.
... Jest bezpiecznym składnikiem kosmetycznym, a ryzyko wystąpienia podrażnień po jego zastosowaniu jest niewielkie. Pantenol odpowiada za ochronę skóry, zmniejsza poziom TEWL, co skutkuje zwiększeniem poziomu jej nawilżenia, a także redukuje świąd [38]. • Kwas foliowy (folic acid) dodawany do preparatów kosmetycznych wykazuje działanie regeneracyjne oraz przeciwstarzeniowe, a jego niedobór w organizmie może powodować powstawanie uszkodzeń w DNA. ...
Article
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Cancer diseases are currently one of the most common and particularly dangerous health problems. Despite the constant development of medical science and widening of knowledge about its prevention and treatment, each year there is an increasing number of cases and deaths due to them. The most popular forms of therapy are radiotherapy and chemotherapy. Oncological treatment is associated with the possibility of many adverse effects, including those involving skin and appendages, which can be alleviated with the use of appropriate forms of therapy and cosmetic procedures. The aim of the study was to analyze the composition and characteristics of cosmetics on the Polish market recommended for oncological patients. The components of cosmetic formulas intended for skin care and skin therapy to alleviate the undesirable effects of oncological treatment were discussed. The preparations were made based on the most frequently reported adverse reactions of radiotherapy and chemotherapy. The basic types of action of cosmetic ingredients, and the possibilities and limitations of their application are indicated. Further development of science is needed, which will allow safe and effective cosmetological care of the oncological patient.
... It is based on Fick's diffusion law indicating the amount of water evaporating and being transported in a defined area and time period. The values are given in g/m 2 /h [22]. ...
Article
Background: Because of side effects like skin dryness and consecutive symptoms like itching the therapy of chronic venous insufficiency (CVI) with medical compression stockings (MCS) can lead to a diminished wear comfort and restricted compliance. Compression stockings with integrated skin care may have a positive influence on the skin hydration and moreover a positive effect on patients compliance. Patients and methods: In this monocentric, randomized prospective, controlled trial a below knee conventional MCS was compared to a medical compression stocking with integrated skin care (MCS-SC), interface pressure range 23-32 mmHg. Participants: 50 patients with CVI. Primary outcome: skin hydration. Secondary outcomes: transepidermal water loss, skin roughness, leg volume, interface pressure and questionnaires about quality of life and wear comfort. Results: In patients wearing MCS the skin moisture decreased (p = 0.021) and the skin roughness increased significantly (p = 0.001), whereas in patients wearing the MCS-SC skin moisture and skin roughness changed only slightly (n.s.). These protective effects of MCS-SC compared to MCS were most common in patients with CVI at stage 3 (p = 0.046), in male patients (p = 0.013) and patients with initial dry skin (p = 0.034). Both MCS reduced lower leg volume, MCS by 80 ml (p < 0.001) and MCS-SC by 60 ml (p < 0.001), both MCS improved quality of life: leg complaints (p = 0.0003); functional status (p = 0.010), well-being and life satisfaction (p = 0.030). Wear comfort: In terms of tightness, constriction in bond area and strenuous donning the MCS-SC was assessed significantly more comfortable than MCS (p < 0.001). Conclusions: MCS-SC revealed to be superior to MCS with regard to skin moisture, particularly in patients with low skin humidity, in male patients and in patients with C3, varicose veins accompanied by edema.
... Dexpanthenol and pantothenic acid are well known to have a positive influence on wound healing and especially by enhancing proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fi- broblasts and are therefore broadly used in the clinical practice [18,19]. Topically applied dexpanthenol acts as a moisturizer, reducing transepidermal water loss and maintaining skin softness and elasticity [20]. A protective effect of dexpanthenol was found for the human nasal mucosa where it is able to reduce cell-and ciliary-toxic effects of α-sympathomimetic decongestants [21,22]. ...
Article
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Introduction: Efforts are increasingly aiming to develop in vitro models that can provide effective alternatives to in vivo experiments. The main aim of this study was the establishment of an in vitro model of the nonkeratinized mucous membrane that can be used as a standardized tool to evaluate biological and therapeutic effects of pharmaceuticals for mucosal wound healing. Methods: We established a full-thickness in vitro model of the nonkeratinized mucous membrane. While histological examination was performed to assess morphological characteristics, we utilized gene expression profiling using microarray and qRT-PCR analyses to identify molecular effects of treatment with a dexpanthenol-containing ointment after laser wounding. Results: Performing histological and immunofluorescence analyses we proved that our model mimics the two distinctive layers of the mucous membrane - the stratified squamous epithelium and the lamina propria. We used this model to investigate molecular effects of a dexpanthenol-containing ointment that is commonly used for the wound treatment of mucous membranes. For that purpose, our model exhibits a unique feature in that dexpanthenol and proliferation-enhancing additives that may interfere with our studies are not required for the maintenance of the model culture. After setting standardized lesions with a nonsequential fractional ultrapulsed CO2 laser, topical treatment with the dexpanthenol-containing ointment enhanced wound closure in the model compared to placebo and untreated controls. Furthermore, microarray analysis revealed that the treatment of the laser-wounded model with the dexpanthenol-containing ointment evoked an upregulated expression of various genes related to accelerated wound healing. Conclusion: Overall, we verified that this novel mucous membrane model can be utilized in future to monitor ex vivo effects of various topical therapies on mucosa morphology, physiology, and gene expression. Our findings confirm the potential of the model as an in vitro tool for the replacement of pharmacological in vivo studies regarding mucosal wound healing.
... století 19) . Dexpanthenol významně podporuje regeneraci pokožky, působí také jako humektant -zlepšuje hydrataci rohové vrstvy, snižuje transepidermální ztrátu vody a udržuje pokožku hebkou a elastickou [20][21][22][23] . Vykazuje příznivý účinek při hojení ran, přestože mechanismus jeho působení je znám pouze částečně 23,24) . ...
Article
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Currently, a wide variety of wound dressings of varying composition and effects is used to treat wounds. These include also film dressings where one of the promising materials for its preparation is sodium carboxymethylcellulose (NaCMC) as a material of natural origin with excellent film-forming properties. Its application is particularly in the field of absorbent dressings, films for wounds from this material are not used in practice yet. Hidden potential offers also dexpanthenol, a substance widely used in dermatological practice. Therefore, the aim of this research was to prepare films from textile NaCMC with dexpanthenol by the solvent evaporation method and their subsequent physicochemical evaluation. The presence of microfibrillar fibers of partially substituted carboxymethylcellulose together with HCMC has ensured optimal parameters for wound application such as pH, swelling and mechanical properties. The films showed satisfactory mass content uniformity and those with dexpanthenol also drug content uniformity.
... In this context, the use of collagen peptides (or hydrolyzed collagen), that are produced by breaking collagen obtained from different sources (mainly animals, like fish and bovines) through enzymatic hydrolysis into small chains of amino acids, is highly indicated as oral supplementations to improve aged skin conditions, being easy to digest due to their size, and absorbed by the human body, which could lead to alterations on different parameters. 1 Also, di-and tripeptides extracted from rice (Orysza sativa) have a great potential to be added in cosmetic formulations, once they are well accepted by the skin and act in the metabolic functions of the skin cells, stimulating the synthesis of fibroblasts, collagen (type III and VII), fibronectin, and integrin, which are responsible for cell adhesion, preventing, and improving skin aging. [6][7][8] Considering that dermocosmetic treatments in general act on the improvement of skin hydration, control of skin oiliness, and pores reduction, all on the epidermal layer, [9][10][11] the clinical evaluation of new treatments to also act on the dermis is very important, improving not only epidermis but also the skin density-firmness and elasticity. In addition, although the photoaging process damages the epidermis, the main target is the dermis, significantly reducing the dermis echogenicity and consequently, the skin density. ...
Article
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Background The combination of oral supplementation and topical formulations to the improvement of skin conditions has been proposed as an innovative approach to obtain effective treatments. However, studies comparing the effectiveness of each type of treatments are still in lack. This way, the objective of this work was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of a dermocosmetic formulation with di‐ and tripeptides, as well the effects of an oral supplementation based on hydrolyzed collagen through biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Methods Sixty healthy female subjects, aged between 40 and 50 years, were enrolled, being separated in 3 groups: topical formulation, oral supplementation, and oral placebo. The stratum corneum water content, skin viscoelasticity, dermis echogenicity, and skin pores parameters were evaluated. Results The group with the topical formulation showed a significant increase in the stratum corneum water content and skin elasticity after 28‐day period and also acted in the dermis echogenicity after 90 days with the formulation with peptides. The oral supplementation acted on skin elasticity and presented a more pronounced effect on dermis echogenicity, reducing skin pores after 90‐day period. Conclusion The obtained results with oral supplementation and topical application of hydrolyzed proteins were considered complementary in the improvement of general skin conditions, acting in different mechanisms.
... Reepithelialization is a major component of the wound-healing process and necessary for final wound closure. The topical application of dexpanthenol is widely used to stimulate skin regeneration and promote wound healing (10,22). It is also used to manage post-tonsillectomy pain and mucosal healing (23). ...
Article
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Background Postoperative complications occur after periodontal plastic surgeries, but an ideal treatment to overcome them has not been found yet. Aims To evaluate the effects of topically applied Oral-norm gel on the healing of excisional wounds. Study Design Animal experiment. Methods Excisional wounds with a diameter of 3 mm were made in the center of the palatal mucosa of 63 Sprague Dawley rats. Seven animals were sacrificed at time 0. The remaining rats were divided into two groups: a test group in which the topical Oral-norm gel was applied three times a day and a control group in which nothing was applied. Seven animals in each group were sacrificed at 3, 7, 14, and 21 days. Mean wound surface area was measured photographically, while wound healing and width were evaluated microscopically. Results The mean wound surface area decreased significantly after 3 days in both groups (p<0.001). Between days 3 and 7, the mean wound surface area decreased from 6.62 (2.85) to 0.83 (1.62) mm² in the control group and 5.07 (0.88) to 1.42 (1.67) mm² in the test group. The wound width decreased significantly on day 7 in both groups (p<0.001), with no further changes by day 14. Both groups had a significant increase in inflammation and vascularization on day 3 (p<0.001), with a reduction thereafter. No significant differences in macroscopic and microscopic measurements were observed between the groups at any time point (p>0.05). Conclusion The Oral-norm gel has no positive healing effects in the palatal mucosa of rats.
... Dexpanthenol is a derivative of pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5) and its 0.1% to 0.5% ointment is used in children. It is rapidly absorbed through the skin and accelerates wound healing and relieves itching by stimulating epithelization and granulation (Camargo, Gaspar & Maia Campos 2011). It also acts as a moisturizer and helps maintaining the softness and elasticity of the skin. ...
Article
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Background: Inflammation caused by diapers is one of the most common skin diseases in infants and children all over the world. Among the current therapies, modern chemical medicines are the most common ways of therapy despite their potential risks. In the present study, a variety of available chemical and complementary therapies are presented to facilitate the selection or further research on the range of available treatments with no or fewer side effects. Methods: Published articles on diaper dermatitis were searched in databases and search engines, including Magiran, Irandoc, SID, Ovid, PubMed, Google scholar, ScienceDirect, and IranMedex from 2010 to 2018. Finally, a total of 80 articles out of the 138 related articles were reviewed. Results: The treatments were divided into two general categories of topical and systemic treatments. Topical treatments included chemical and herbal subcategories. Corticosteroids, antibacterial agents, antifungals, and other medications composed chemical treatments. According to the information obtained from each category, corticosteroids are the most risky and herbal medicine the safest medication. However, herbal and traditional medicines were the most widely-used treatments for diaper dermatitis. Conclusion: According to the findings, the choice of appropriate prescription and safe treatment for medical personnel and parents of children is limited. Further studies are recommended on traditional medicines that little information is available about them.
... Re-epithelialization is a major component of the wound-healing process and necessary for final wound closure. The topical application of dexpanthenol is widely used to stimulate skin regeneration and promote wound healing (10,22). It is also used to manage posttonsillectomy pain and mucosal healing (23). ...
Article
Full-text available
Background: Although postoperative complications occurs after periodontal plastic surgeries, an ideal treatment has not been found to overcome. Aims: The aim of this study was evaluated the effects of topically applied Oral-norm gel on the healing of excisional wounds. Study design: Animal experimentation. Methods: Excisional wounds with a 3 mm diameter were made in the center of the palatal mucosa in 63 Sprague Dawley rats. Seven animals were sacrificed at time 0. The remaining animals were divided into an experimental group to which topical Oral-norm gel was applied three times a day, and a control group to which nothing was applied. Seven animals in each group were sacrificed at 3, 7, 14 and 21 days. The mean wound surface area (MWSA) was measured, wound healing and width was evaluated microscopically. Results: The MWSA decreased significantly after 3 days in both groups (p<0.001). After 3 days, the MWSA decreased from 6.62 (2.85) mm2 to 0.83(1.62) mm2 in control group and 5.07(0.88) mm2 to 1.42(1.67) mm2 in test group on day 7. The wound width decreased significantly on day 7 in both groups (p<0.001), with no further changes by day 14. Both groups had a significant increase in inflammation and vascularization on day 3 (p<0.001), with a reduction thereafter. No significant differences in macroscopic and microscopic measurements were observed between the groups at any time point (p>0.05). Conclusions: No positive healing benefits were observed with the use of Oral-norm gel.
Chapter
Water-soluble vitamins (vitamin B complex and C) are essential coenzymes for various metabolic activities that are necessary for the body to function properly. Our body cannot store these vitamins; thus, frequent dietary intake is required to restore them. A deficiency in these vitamins can result in several illnesses that can severely impair daily functioning or even lead to fatal diseases. Most vitamins can be obtained in sufficient amounts through a diet comprising whole grains, vegetables, fruits, and lean protein-rich foods. People with specific medical conditions, dietary limitations, or poor absorption might need to take supplements. Besides, certain microorganisms can prevent the absorption of vitamins produced by the gut microflora. Genetic engineering, a valuable tool, is utilized to fight against malnutrition-related deficiency illnesses. Large-scale production of vitamins is achieved through genetic modification of microbes. Supplementing conventional chemical synthesis techniques, microbial generation of vitamins, has shown great promise, especially, for those vitamins that are costly or difficult to produce chemically. The food and pharmaceutical industries stand to gain a great deal from the ability to synthesize vitamins in an economical, sustainable, and highly specialized manner. They address micronutrient deficiencies and enhance general health and well-being by producing targeted supplements and fortified foods.
Article
Management of the signs of facial aging and other cosmetic skin problems have greatly evolved in the past years. People are also seeking to improve their well‐being and global skin appearance, and when they consider using cosmetic procedures, they expect natural and long‐lasting aesthetic results. Combined dermocosmetic approaches that address the signs of facial aging at all levels are increasingly being used by dermatologists to meet patient expectations while ensuring their safety. Minimally invasive and reversible procedures that can be performed in only one session are popular approaches for skin restructuring and volumizing as they are flexible, rapid and less burdensome for patients. These interventions can achieve even better outcomes when they are combined with cosmeceuticals as pre‐ or post‐procedural adjuvants to prepare the skin, accelerate recovery and sustain results. The use of topical dermocosmetics is also recommended as part of the daily skin care routine to improve skin quality and help maintain skin barrier function. This review thus outlines the most commonly used combined multilevel anti‐aging strategies, which start by addressing the deepest skin layers and then the more superficial signs of skin aging. Examples of multi‐active cosmeceuticals and skin delivery enhancing systems are also presented, together with examples of the use of dermocosmetics as supportive care for aesthetic procedures, to provide insights into current applications of dermocosmetic products.
Article
Introduction Topical retinoids cause retinoid‐induced skin discomfort (RISD) mainly during the first weeks of use leading to noncompliance and premature treatment discontinuation. A dermocosmetic (DC) may help to reduce treatment‐related signs and symptoms and improve adherence. Objectives To assess the benefit of a DC regimen compared to a routine skin care regimen (RC) by reducing RISD signs and symptoms induced by a retinoid/benzoyl peroxide fixed‐drug combination in subjects with acne. Materials and Methods Double‐blind, randomized, comparative study in subjects ≥16 years with mild to moderate acne candidates to a topical adapalene/BPO fixed drug combination (A/BPO). Evaluations took place at Day 0, 7, 14, 28, and 84 and included erythema, desquamation, burning, itching and stinging and RISD (SD, a composite score of local treatment‐related signs and symptoms and acne severity. Subjects used daily the DC or RC together with the fixed combination for 84 days. Results Eighty‐eight subjects were included, the mean age was 21 years; 84% were females. At Day 0 the SD score was 0.8 in both groups. A statistically significant difference in terms of skin sensitivity with DC compared to RC (1.6 points, vs. 2.4 points p < 0.05) was observed at Day 14. Clinical sign and symptom scores were more reduced with DC than with RC at all time points. Acne severity improved in both groups. Conclusion DC significantly reduces A/BPO‐related RISD compared to RC, especially during the first 14 days of treatment, without interfering with the clinical efficacy of the treatment, thus helping to maintain treatment adherence.
Article
The skin aging which entails modifications in the entire skin and skin support system is caused as a result of complex blend of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The main objective of this review is to provide critical insights into the effect of the aging determinants (intrinsic and extrinsic) on aging skin and to focus on a few classes of natural bioactives that were reported to counteract symptoms of cutaneous aging, pose potential, and beneficial health effect on aging skin supported with relevant scientific evidence. The narrative review of this cutaneous antiaging study incorporating the literature findings was retrieved from the search of computerized databases PubMed and Scopus, hand searches, and authoritative books. The antiaging skin care approach of using bioactives are basically nutritional hormetins, available from our natural heritage, identified as potent free radical scavengers, antioxidants, moisturizers, cell repairing agents, and ultraviolet protectives which have started to seek considerable attention among researchers and consumers due to the undesirable effect of chemical-based constituents on human health and environment. With the booming antiaging strategies, beauty has become the prime factor in considering one's health and overall “wellness”. As promoting healthy aging is essential, the objective of aesthetic dermatology should shift from cosmetic interventions to the betterment of quality of life of aging society. The paper also discusses on certain artificial learning/machine-based algorithms, useful in screening of bioactive ingredients, helpful in developing of more tailored formulations. This narrative overview on skin antiaging natural bioactives and artificial learning–based bioactive screening approaches contributes for the improvement in dermatological drug discovery, in the development of novel targeted lead compounds and accelerates aging research and pharmaceutical research.
Chapter
The biotech industry is largely committed to identify sustainable, economical natural sources of bioactive compounds. It aims to deliver innovative solutions to meet the modern societal paradigms. Blue biotechnology has been a major supplier meeting consumer demands for organic actives used in cosmetics and moreover, cosmeceuticals. It makes use of aquatic resources as raw materials to formulate clinically proven, age-defying active ingredients. Algae are incredibly versatile non-disputed treasures of the blue ecosystem with potential applications in anti-aging formulations. This is primarily due to an array of their valuable metabolites including, pigments, polysaccharides, phenols, and vitamins which are known to exhibit antioxidant, anti-wrinkling, depigmenting, and moisturizing activities. They not only serve as a sustainable vegan alternative but also as a replacement for potentially harmful chemicals that have been traditionally used in skin care products. The global multibillion dollar skin care industry is currently focussing on making advances in algal genetics and metabolic systems biology in order to induce/alter the expression of complex metabolic pathways to yield higher industrially relevant product. In addition to exploiting biotechnologically derived ingredients for cosmetic formulations, genetic analysis for specific skin care routines to provide personalized skincare therapy, stem-cell-based products, and treatments for rejuvenating aging tissues or cell and tissue engineering for cosmetic purposes have been recent advances in cosmetics.
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The goals of the topical treatment of patients suffering from atopic dermatitis are suppression of the inflammatory reaction in the skin, elimination of itching, and recovery of the damaged protective lipid barrier of the epidermis. In this connection, topical glucocorticosteroids and skin moisturizers are used in the therapy of patients suffering from atopic dermatitis. Methylprednisolone aceponate (MPA, Advantan) being a topical glucocorticosteroid is characterized by high efficacy and safety. MPA is marked by the fast development of the therapeutic effect. This drug can be used for children older than 4 months and can be applied once a day. The availability of four dosage forms of MPA (emulsion, cream, ointment and fatty ointment) enables physicians to select a therapy with the use of this drug depending on the stage and localization of the skin lesion. Dexpanthenol (Bepanthen) being a tissue repair stimulator moisturizes the skin, protects the skin against an irritant effect, and restores the protective lipid barrier of the epidermis. The use of a combination of MPA being a topical glucocorticosteroid and dexpanthenol being a tissue repair stimulator can enhance the efficacy of the treatment of patients suffering from atopic dermatitis.
Chapter
Vitamins are commonly used in topical skincare products designed to prevent skin aging and improve aged skin appearance, resilience, and health. Vitamins are organic compounds required for maintaining human health and are primarily obtained from the diet. Several forms of the oil‐soluble vitamin A are used cosmetically, the most widely utilized ones being retinol, retinyl esters, and retinaldehyde. There are three primary forms of the water‐soluble vitamin B 3 that have found utility in skin care products: niacinamide, nicotinic acid, and nicotinate esters. The niacinamide‐treated skin is then more resistant to environmental damage, as determined by exposure of the skin to the surfactant sodium lauryl sulfate and assessment of the resulting transepidermal water loss. Topical panthenol is extremely well tolerated by the skin, leading to wide topical use of the material and many reported skin effects. Vitamin C is well known as an antioxidant and has been utilized as a skin lightener.
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The development of a semi-automated and rapid analytical technique for dermatological analysis has become a key aim of many medical and commercial entities through greater awareness of people to skin health and its importance in the 21st century. We present a proof-of-concept methodology demonstrating the use of validated non-destructive, in-situ (Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy) NMR techniques for characterisation and quantitation of (Natural Moisturising Factor) NMF compounds and actives from topical formulations. This quantitation is crucial for appropriate diagnosis of atopic dermatitis severity due to its association with reduced NMF abundance. This study is the first to combine diffusion NMR, semi-automated quantitation and ex-vivo skin samples to measure NMF and permeation of actives. We have shown that diffusion NMR allows for resolution between formulation components through determination of self-diffusion coefficients. We also demonstrate how the metabolomics software chenomxtm can be used to identify and quantitate individual NMF components. We show comparable results to previous literature on NMF layers in the skin, alongside reinforcing findings on permeation enhancers and heat effects on transdermal delivery of actives and formulation components. The presented methodology has shown great potential as an effective non-destructive, fast and versatile technique for dermatological analysis of physiology and actives, with future hardware and software developments in NMR making the future of dermatological analysis via NMR very promising.
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Background: Diaper dermatitis (DD) is an acute inflammatory reaction, regardless of the cause, of the diaper-covered area. Topical skin barrier repair cosmetic products are the mainstay treatment to cure and/or prevent DD. Aims: To assess the efficacy/tolerability of a zinc gluconate-taurine/zinc oxide and panthenol/ glycerin/ Butyrospermum parkii butter barrier cream using clinical evaluation. Methods: In this prospective, open-label trial, 20 patients (10 infants/10 adults), with mild/moderate DD enrolled at the Dermatology University Clinic of Catania (Italy) were instructed to apply the cream twice daily for 30 days. Degree of erythema was performed clinically by a 5-point severity scale (from 0 = no erythema to 4 = severe erythema), at baseline, at 15 and 30 days. An Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) using a 6-point scale (from -1 = worsening to 4 = complete response/clear) along with product tolerability was also performed at 15 and 30 days. Statistical analysis was performed using SAS version 9. Results: At 15 days, a reduction of clinical erythema assessment (CEA) from baseline was observed (mean from 3.2 ± 0.8 to 2.5 ± 0.3; p < 0.06), that although nonsignificant, showed a significant progressive improvement at 30 days (mean from 3.2 ± 0.8 to 1.1 ± 0.9; p < 0.0001) without any age differences. Conclusions: Our preliminary results indicate that the tested barrier cream may represent a promising approach in DD rash. It may be used in mild-to-moderate forms in monotherapy without significant side effects or, where required, in association with pharmacological agents. Its long-term use is likely safe.
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Background: Intertrigo is a recurrent inflammatory dermatosis involving large/small body folds. Skin barrier products represent the mainstay of treatment in uncomplicated mild/moderate intertrigo. Aims: To assess by clinical and instrumental evaluation the efficacy and tolerability of a new barrier spray containing zinc gluconate-taurine complex and zinc oxide combined with panthenol, glycerin, and Shea (Butyrospermum parkii) butter in mild-to-moderate intertrigo in athletes and overweight subjects. Methods: In this open-label prospective trial, 20 adult patients, with mild/moderate intertrigo enrolled at the Dermatology University Clinic of Catania (Italy), were instructed to apply the spray twice daily for 30 days. Degree of erythema was performed clinically and by polarized dermoscopy using a 5-point severity scale (from 0=no erythema to 4=severe erythema) at baseline, and at 15 and 30 days. The measurement of pruritus was carried out by a subject-completed visual analog scale (VAS) (from 0 mm=no pruritus to 100 mm=severe pruritus), at all time points. An Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) using a 6-point scale (from -1=worsening to 4=complete response/clear) was also conducted at 30 days, along with a self-administered tolerability questionnaire. Statistical analysis was performed using SAS version 9. Results: At 15 days, a statically significant reduction from baseline in erythema severity (mean from 3.4 ± 0.3 to 2.5 ± 0.2) along with pruritus intensity (mean from 70 ± 15.4 mm to 40 ± 9.5 mm) was observed. At 30 days, all evaluated parameters showed a further progressive statistically significant reduction from baseline. No relevant side effects were recorded. Conclusions: Our results suggest that the tested spay containing antiseptic/anti-inflammatory and anti-irritation agents may represent a valid therapeutic option for mild/moderate intertrigo.
Chapter
In the majority of cases, allergic rhinitis (AR) has its onset in children or adolescents, with the cardinal symptomatology of repeated sneezing, nasal pruritus, discharge, and a blocked nose. The customary way to classify AR is into seasonal and perennial variants, reflecting the allergenic underpinning of the disorder, but the World Health Organisation (WHO), in its Allergic Rhinitis and its Impact on Asthma (ARIA) guidelines, employs a classification scheme dividing AR into intermittent or persistent types, based on the symptomatic duration. The current treatment modalities for AR are nasal steroids, nasal decongestants, anticholinergics, antihistamines, and panthenol. A novel pharmaceutical formulation that provides all the effects of the abovementioned drugs may be unique and has significant benefits such as single drug usage, cost-effectiveness, lesser side effects, etc. The proposed formulation enables to combine the anti-inflammatory, antihistaminic, decongestant, anticholinergic, and hydrating effects of these drugs into a single medicine.
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A new high‐performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for separation and determination of panthenol enantiomers in hair care products was developed. Two types of detectors, low‐wavelength ultraviolet (UV) and polarimetric, were used. Optimized conditions consisted of coupled achiral, amino type, and chiral, amylose tris(3,5‐dimethylphenylcarbamate), stationary phases, mixture of n‐hexane/ethanol (60:40, v/v) as mobile phase under isocratic conditions and flow rate 0.8 cm3 min−1. The effect of column temperature on retention and resolution of enantiomers was studied. The analysis runtime was 10 minutes, and the average retention times for d‐ and l‐panthenol were 7.10 ±0.1 minutes and 8.21 ±0.2 minutes, respectively. The resolution of enantiomers on coupled achiral‐chiral columns was Rs = 2.7. The solid‐phase extraction method was employed for extraction and purification of analytes. The validated method was selective, accurate, and linear (R2 > .998) over the concentration range of 0.001 to 1.0 mg cm−3 for both enantiomeric forms. The limits of detection (LOD) and quantitation (LOQ) of each enantiomer were 0.3 and 1.0 μg cm−3, respectively. The results demonstrated the occurrence of d‐panthenol in hair care products.
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Among the many active agents for dermocosmetic purposes that have been described, marketed, and prescribed, vitamins (vitamin A palmitate among them) and alpha-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid have been gaining scientific importance. Vitamin A palmitate contributes to the maintenance of skin softness and smoothness, improving the water barrier properties of the tissue. Glycolic acid has yielded highly satisfactory results in terms of recovery of aged skin. The combination of low concentrations of glycolic acid with vitamin A palmitate has been extensively used in dermocosmetic formulations. The objective of the present study was to investigate the histopathological alterations caused by formulations containing vitamin A and/or glycolic acid in guinea pig skin, determined by appropriate stereologic techniques. The following formulations were applied to specific shaved areas of guinea pig skin: gel alone (used as the dermocosmetic base), gel with vitamin A added, gel with glycolic acid added, and gel with both vitamin A and glycolic acid added. After application of the formulations for one week, skin biopsies were obtained from the animals and we investigated the histopathological alterations. Under the present experimental conditions, both the formulations containing vitamin A and glycolic acid caused increased epidermal thickness, with cells of larger volume due to intra-and extracellular edema (hydration). This epithelial thickening was not limited to the upper cell layers but was also present in the basal and spinous layers. These alterations were even more evident with the use of the formulation containing a combination of vitamin A and glycolic acid.
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Emollients and moisturizing creams are used to break the dry skin cycle and to maintain the smoothness of the skin. The term ‘moisturizer’ is often used synonymously with emollient, but moisturizers often contain humectants in order to hydrate the stratum corneum. Dryness is frequently linked to an impaired barrier function observed, for example, in atopic skin, psoriasis, ichthyosis, and contact dermatitis. Dryness and skin barrier disorders are not a single entity, but are characterized by differences in chemistry and morphology in the epidermis. Large differences also exist between moisturizing creams. Moisturizers have multiple functions apart from moistening the skin. Similar to other actives, the efficacy is likely to depend on the dosage, where compliance is a great challenge faced in the management of skin diseases. Strong odor from ingredients and greasy compositions may be disagreeable to the patients. Furthermore, low pH and sensory reactions, from lactic acid and urea for example, may reduce patient acceptance. Once applied to the skin, the ingredients can stay on the surface, be absorbed into the skin, be metabolized, or disappear from the surface by evaporation, sloughing off, or by contact with other materials. In addition to substances considered as actives, e.g. fats and humectants, moisturizers contain substances conventionally considered as excipients (e.g. emulsifiers, antioxidants, preservatives). Recent findings indicate that actives and excipients may have more pronounced effects in the skin than previously considered. Some formulations may deteriorate the skin condition, whereas others improve the clinical appearance and skin barrier function. For example, emulsifiers may weaken the barrier. On the other hand, petrolatum has an immediate barrier-repairing effect in delipidized stratum corneum. Moreover, one ceramide-dominant lipid mixture improved atopic dermatitis and decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in an open-label study in children. In double-blind studies moisturizers with urea have been shown to reduce TEWL in atopic and ichthyotic patients. Urea also makes normal and atopic skin less susceptible against irritation to sodium laurilsulfate. Treatments improving the barrier function may reduce the likelihood of further aggravation of the disease. In order to have optimum effect it is conceivable that moisturizers should be tailored with respect to the epidermal abnormality. New biochemical approaches and non-invasive instruments will increase our understanding of skin barrier disorders and facilitate optimum treatments. The chemistry and function of dry skin and moisturizers is a challenging subject for the practicing dermatologist, as well as for the chemist developing these agents in the pharmaceutical/cosmetic industry.
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Pantothenic acid is essential to normal epithelial function. It is a component of coenzyme A, which serves as a cofactor for a variety of enzyme-catalyzed reactions that are important in the metabolism of carbohydrates, fatty acids, proteins, gluconeogenesis, sterols, steroid hormones, and porphyrins. The topical use of dexpanthenol, the stable alcoholic analog of pantothenic acid, is based on good skin penetration and high local concentrations of dexpanthenol when administered in an adequate vehicle, such as water-in-oil emulsions. Topical dexpanthenol acts like a moisturizer, improving stratum corneum hydration, reducing transepidermal water loss and maintaining skin softness and elasticity. Activation of fibroblast proliferation, which is of relevance in wound healing, has been observed both in vitro and in vivo with dexpanthenol. Accelerated re-epithelization in wound healing, monitored by means of the transepidermal water loss as an indicator of the intact epidermal barrier function, has also been seen. Dexpanthenol has been shown to have an anti-inflammatory effect on experimental ultraviolet-induced erythema. Beneficial effects of dexpanthenol have been observed in patients who have undergone skin transplantation or scar treatment, or therapy for burn injuries and different dermatoses. The stimulation of epithelization, granulation and mitigation of itching were the most prominent effects of formulations containing dexpanthenol. In double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trials, dexpanthenol was evaluated for its efficacy in improving wound healing. Epidermal wounds treated with dexpanthenol emulsion showed a reduction in erythema, and more elastic and solid tissue regeneration. Monitoring of transepidermal water loss showed a significant acceleration of epidermal regeneration as a result of dexpanthenol therapy, as compared with the vehicle. In an irritation model, pretreatment with dexpanthenol cream resulted in significantly less damage to the stratum corneum barrier, compared with no pretreatment. Adjuvant skin care with dexpanthenol considerably improved the symptoms of skin irritation, such as dryness of the skin, roughness, scaling, pruritus, erythema, erosion/fissures, over 3 to 4 weeks. Usually, the topical administration of dexpanthenol preparations is well tolerated, with minimal risk of skin irritancy or sensitization.
Article
Synopsis The importance of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) as a measure of the skin barrier is well recognized. Currently, the open‐chamber method is dominant, but it is increasingly challenged by newer closed‐chamber technologies. Whilst there is familiarity with open‐chamber characteristics, there is uncertainty about the capabilities of the challengers. The main issues are related to how microclimate affects TEWL measurements. The aim of this paper is to provide a framework for understanding the effects of microclimate on TEWL measurement. Part of the problem is that TEWL measurement is indirect. TEWL is the diffusion of condensed water through the stratum corneum (SC), whereas TEWL methods measure water vapour flux in the air above the SC. This vapour flux depends on (i) the rate of supply of water to the skin surface and (ii) the rate of evaporation of water from the skin surface. Rate (i) is a skin property (TEWL), rate (ii) is a microclimate property. The controlling rate for the combined process is the lower of the above two rates. Therefore, TEWL instruments measure TEWL only when TEWL is the rate‐limiting process. Another problem is that SC barrier property and SC hydration are affected by the microclimate adjacent to the skin surface. This is discussed insofar as it affects the measurement of TEWL. The conclusion is that such changes occur on a timescale that is long compared with TEWL measurement times. An important aspect of TEWL measurement is calibration. We present an analysis of the traditional wet‐cup method and a new droplet method that is traceable and has been independently verified by a standards laboratory. Finally, we review performance indicators of commercial closed‐chamber instruments with reference to open‐chamber instruments. The main findings are that TEWL readings correlate well, but there are significant differences in the other aspects of performance.
Article
Background/purpose: Vitamins C and its derivatives, mainly due to their antioxidant properties, are being used in cosmetic products to protect and to reduce the signs of ageing. However, there are no studies comparing the effects of vitamin C [ascorbic acid (AA)] and its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and ascorbyl tetra‐isopalmitate (ATIP), when vehiculated in topical formulations, mainly using objective measurements, which are an important tool in clinical efficacy studies. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of AA and its derivatives, MAP and ATIP, as well as their in vivo efficacy on human skin, when vehiculated in topical formulations. Methods: The study of antioxidant activity in vitro was performed with an aqueous and a lipid system. The in vivo methodology consisted of the application of these formulations on human volunteers' forearm skin and the analysis of the skin conditions after 4‐week period daily applications in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum moisture content and viscoelasticity using a Tewameter ® , Corneometer ® and Cutometer ® , respectively. Results: In vitro experiments demonstrated that in an aqueous system, AA had the best antioxidant potential, and MAP was more effective than ATIP, whereas in the lipid system ATIP was more effective than MAP. In in vivo studies, all formulations enhanced stratum corneum moisture content after a 4‐week period daily applications when compared with baseline values; however, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values. The formulations containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic‐to‐elastic ratio, which suggested its action in the deeper layers of the skin. Conclusion: AA and its derivates presented an in vitro antioxidant activity but AA had the best antioxidant effect. In in vivo efficacy studies, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values and the formulation containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic‐to‐elastic ratio. This way, vitamin C derivatives did not present the same effects of AA on human skin; however, MAP showed other significant effect‐improving skin hydration, which is very important for the normal cutaneous metabolism and also to prevent skin alterations and early ageing.
Article
Skin as an organ of protection covers the body and accomplishes multiple defensive functions. The intact skin represents a barrier to the uncontrolled loss of water, proteins, and plasma components from the organism. Due to its complex structure, the epidermal barrier with its major component, stratum corneum, is the rate-limiting unit for the penetration of exogenous substances through the skin. The epidermal barrier is not a static structure. The permeability barrier status can be modified by different external and internal factors such as climate, physical stressors, and a number of skin and systemic diseases. Today, different non-invasive approaches are used to monitor the skin barrier physical properties in vivo. The quantification of parameters such as transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum hydration, and skin surface acidity is essential for the integral evaluation of the epidermal barrier status. Novel methods such as in vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy offer the possibility for precise and detailed characterization of the skin barrier. This paper will allow the readership to get acquainted with the non-invasive, in vivo methods for the investigation of the skin barrier.
Article
Psoriasis is a disorder characterized by faster than normal skin growth, resulting in a buildup of thickened areas with a scaly appearance. Common sites of involvement include the scalp, elbows, knees, and back. Moisturization of these areas may provide relief by increasing hydration. Accordingly, the use of a moisturizing cream (Cetaphil Moisturizing Cream) was studied in participants with mild to moderate plaque psoriasis (5%-10% body surface area) who either were not being treated or had discontinued the use of all topical psoriasis medications and all other moisturizers and remained off of them for the entire study. The condition of the participants'skin was objectively monitored for skin barrier function through transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration through corneometry, and desquamation through the use of sticky tape corneocyte counts (D-SQUAME). Thirty participants were enrolled. The results of this 4-week study indicate there was no further damage to the skin barrier, as no significant change in TEWL was seen. Furthermore, skin hydration increased over the course of the study. Desquamation measurements showed a significant percentage of participants with skin improvements from very dry to dry or normal (P < .0001 for all time points). All of these effects were noted despite the absence of topical psoriasis treatment. The investigator assessed that this moisturizer was well-tolerated and appropriate for use on the damaged skin of participants with psoriasis.
Article
Vitamins have been increasingly used as prophylactic and therapeutic agents in the management of skin disorders. The current literature is replete with studies that promote the potential benefits of these compounds and attempt to elucidate their mechanisms of action. We review the literature and discuss the roles, safety, and efficacy of vitamins A, C, and E and related compounds in cutaneous health and disease.
Article
In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study the effect of topical dexpanthenol (CAS 81-13-0) formulated in two different lipophilic vehicles on epidermal barrier function in vivo was carried out. Seven days' treatment with dexpanthenol improved stratum corneum hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss. Active treatment was statistically different from the vehicle control on both measures. Our results suggest that topical dexpanthenol formulated in either lipophilic vehicle stabilizes the skin barrier function.
Article
Background/aims: The Cutometer equipped with a 2-mm diameter suction probe is a device suitable for assessment of epidermal mechanics. The objectives of this study were to determine the sensitivity of Cutometer parameters to epidermal hydration, to evaluate the correlation between skin mechanical parameters and skin capacitance, and to study the role of pretension of the skin. Methods: In the first study, skin capacitance (Corneometer) and 10 mechanical parameters were determined before and 60 min after application of five different moisturizers on the volar forearm. In the second study, measurements of epidermal mechanics were made without and with 0.1 s presuction of the skin, before and 120 min after application of petrolatum and glycerin. Results: Hydration of the skin significantly increased the values of capacitance and all rheological parameters. Delayed distension (Uv) and viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio (Uv/Ue) were the most sensitive Cutometer parameters. Significant correlations between skin capacitance and mechanical parameters were not found. Pretension of the skin did not significantly influence the values of skin mechanical parameters. Conclusions: The non-invasive measurements of skin elasticity are appropriate for an objective and quantitative evaluation of the complex effect of different dermatological and cosmetic products on skin mechanics and hydration.
Article
Cosmetics are commercially available products that are used to improve the appearance of the skin. Since the late 1980s, consumer demand for more effective products that more substantively beautify the appearance has resulted in increased basic science research and product development in the cosmetics industry. The result has been more ingredients that may actually improve not just the appearance of the skin, but the health of the skin as well. We now have products that renew, restore, and rejuvenate—not just cleanse, protect, and moisturize. There is probably no greater focus of interest currently than the incorporation of vitamins and antioxidants in skin care products. There are considerable data to suggest the benefits of such ingredients in cosmetics. This article reviews the published data that support the usefulness of vitamins and antioxidants in cosmetics. Our job as dermatologists is to digest and assess the data so we can give knowledgeable recommendations to our patients. The ingestion and absorption of vitamins and antioxidants, most importantly through diet, and secondarily through intake of manufactured supplements, is critical to the health of human beings. The skin is the largest organ; as our primary external barrier, it is on the forefront of the battle with external causes of damaging free radicals. Ultraviolet light and environmental pollutants are known initiators of free radicals. Free radicals are highly reactive molecules with an unpaired electron that result in damage to surrounding molecules and tissues. The most significant damage by free radicals is to biomembranes and to DNA. It is thought that additional, topical use of vitamins and antioxidants in cosmetics can better protect and possibly correct the damage by neutralizing these free radicals. In addition, some vitamins may be beneficial to the skin because of other actions such as effects of suppression of pigmentation and bruising, stimulation of collagen production, refinement of keratinization, or anti-inflammatory effects. Vitamin A
Article
Moisturizers containing vitamins A and E as well as ceramides are believed to improve the skin condition by increasing the water content of the stratum corneum. The aim of this research was to evaluate, through the capacitance method (a non-invasive method), the moisturizing effect of an O/W emulsion (non-ionic self-emulsifying base) containing vitamin A palmitate, vitamin E acetate, and ceramide III on human skin. The studies were carried out on a group of 40 healthy Caucasian female test subjects between 30 and 45 years of age, using the Corneometer CM 825 PC. Skin measurements were taken from the volunteers at 7 and 30 days after daily use (twice a day) of the tested products. The presence of vitamins A and E or ceramide III did not cause an improvement in the hydration of the stratum corneum, which means that none of those compounds strengthens the hydration effectiveness of the base formulations used, at least at the doses tested. The interpretation of electrical measurement regarding skin moisture should be made with caution; thus the results observed in this study show the importance of using different approaches (or methodologies) to verify the performance of the formulas tested. We conclude that, at the low doses typically used in cosmetic formulations, vitamins A and E and ceramide III are not likely to contribute to the hydrating effects of the base moisturizing formulation when assessed by capacitance.
Article
Unlabelled: New methods to protect skin from photodamage from sun exposure are necessary if we are to conquer skin cancer and photoaging. Sunscreens are useful, but their protection is not ideal because of inadequate use, incomplete spectral protection, and toxicity. Skin naturally uses antioxidants (AOs) to protect itself from photodamage. This scientific review summarizes what is known about how photodamage occurs; why sunscreens--the current gold standard of photoprotection--are inadequate; and how topical AOs help protect against skin cancer and photoaging changes. This review is intended to be a reference source, including pertinent comprehensive reviews whenever available. Although not all AOs are included, an attempt has been made to select those AOs for which sufficient information is available to document their potential topical uses and benefits. Reviewed are the following physiologic and plant AOs: vitamin C, vitamin E, selenium, zinc, silymarin, soy isoflavones, and tea polyphenols. Their topical use may favorably supplement sunscreen protection and provide additional anticarcinogenic protection. (J Am Acad Dermatol 2003;48:1-19.) Learning objective: At the completion of this learning activity, participants should have an understanding of current information about how the sun damages skin to produce skin cancer and photoaging changes, how the skin naturally protects itself from the sun, the shortcomings of sunscreens, and the added advantages of topical AOs for photoprotection.
Article
Skin suction experiments are widely used in order to evaluate the effects of skin treatments, both for cosmetic and for dermatological purposes. Classically, the elevation of the skin is measured at different discrete time instances after the pressure has been changed. Relations between the classical parameters - Uv, Ur, Ue and Uf - have been investigated and used in order to develop a new model for interpreting the mechanical properties of the skin. Within a group of 68 female subjects - aged between 37 and 68 - a Cutometer has been used in order to determine classical skin suction parameters on the female facial skin. Each skin suction measurement consists of three consecutive underpressure cycles. Within the resulting parameter set, a statistical analysis has been performed to investigate interparameter relations. Strong interparameter correlations have been found within a set of 12 classical skin suction parameters. The set contains three independent groups of interrelated parameters. Based on this observation, a one-dimensional mechanical model - consisting of springs and dampers - is constructed. When two extra independent parameters are included in the model, the elevation versus time curves as recorded during three consecutive underpressure cycles can be fully described. The model reveals that typical skin suction data can be described in terms of a quick and a slow deformation process. The two characteristic time scales are 0.1 and 7 s approximately. The 0.1 s-value matches the response time of the device used. In reality, the quick deformation process in the skin may have a shorter time scale. In skin suction data, each underpressure cycle is usually characterized by four classical parameters - Uv, Ur, Ue and Uf. Within the 12 parameters of a three-cycle measurement, three independent groups of interrelated parameters have been found. These groups can be represented by the parameters Uv1, Ur1 and Uf1 of the first underpressure cycle. A model that is based on these three independent groups and two other independent parameters is proposed. The model provides an accurate description of the skin deformation as recorded during a measurement involving three underpressure cycles. The model is an improvement over classical interpretations of skin suction data where interrelated parameters are used. Moreover, the five-parameter model accounts for well-known mechanical characteristics of the skin such as preconditioning and visco-elastic behavior.
Article
Effects on skin hydration and viscoelasticity are important criteria during the development of novel cosmetic formulations. This study focuses on the in vivo performance of a conventional o/w cream and of the same cream enriched with solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). Influences on skin hydration and viscoelastic properties were investigated with validated devices (Corneometer and Cutometer). After an application period of 4 weeks, significant changes in skin hydration were detected for both formulations. The SLN-enriched cream was significantly more effective than the conventional cream (+24% for the cream and +31% for the SLN-cream). The viscoelastic parameters UF and UA/UF remained almost unchanged, which is attributed to the young age of the volunteers. At this stage, SLN represent a promising compound for hydrating new cosmetic formulations.
Article
It was demonstrated previously that the evaluation of the microdepressionary skin surface relief by semi-automated computerised morphometry enables the determination of several of its geometrical parameters, such as, the average number of polygons in a given microscopic field, and/or the average surface of the polygons. Using this procedure, it could be shown in a study on about 100 persons, males and females, aged from 6 months to 89 years that these parameters undergo age-related alterations. These alterations are faster at younger ages, slow down at middle ages and accelerate after 50-60 years again. Taken at a sun-protected site, the interior face of the forearm, close to the elbow, this test reflects the effect of chronological ageing of the skin surface micro-relief. In the present work we tested the effect of a preparation containing a fucose-rich polysaccharide as active principle on the microdepressionary skin surface micro-relief evaluated by a morphometric method, comparing results before treatment and after 4 weeks of treatment. We could demonstrate on 20 female volunteers, aged from 39 to 71 years, that after 4 weeks of treatment with the abovementioned preparation there was a significant improvement of the skin surface relief, as shown by the displacement of geometrical characteristics of 17 treated skins out of 20, towards a "younger" pattern, as for instance the increase of the average number of polygons in a given microscopic field. This improvement was less than 15% of the untreated value for two persons, and more than 15% for 15 women out of 20. The average improvement was 37.16%, and for the 15 persons showing more than 15% improvement, it was nearly 50%, corresponding to a decrease of apparent age by 10-15 years. These results suggest that a treatment with the fucose-rich polysaccharide preparation can slow down human skin ageing and even can reverse age-dependent skin alterations.
Article
Dexpanthenol is popular in treating various dermatoses and in skin care, but few controlled clinical trials have been performed. We investigated the efficacy of dexpanthenol in skin protection against irritation in a randomized, prospective, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. 25 healthy volunteers (age 18-45 years) were treated for the inner aspect of both forearms with either Bepanthol Handbalsam containing 5% dexpanthenol or placebo x2 daily for 26 days. From day 15-22, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) 2% was applied to these areas x2 daily. Documentation comprised sebumetry, corneometry, pH value and clinical appearance (photographs). 21 volunteers completed the study, 3 were excluded because of non-compliance and 1 experienced a non-study-related, severe, adverse event. Only corneometry yielded a statistically significant difference, with decreased values following SLS challenge at the placebo sites (P < 0.05). Intraindividual comparisons showed superior results at the dexpanthenol-treated sites in 11 cases and in only 1 case at the placebo site. 6 volunteers experienced an irritant contact dermatitis, with more severe symptoms at the placebo site in 5 cases. In conclusion, dexpanthenol exhibits protective effects against skin irritation. The initiation of a study to evaluate the efficacy of dexpanthenol in preventing irritant occupational contact dermatitis under real workplace conditions is validated.
Article
Dry skin and other skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis are characterized by impaired stratum corneum (SC) barrier function and by an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) leading to a decrease in skin hydration. The possibility that dermatological and cosmetic products containing SC lipids could play a part in the restoration of disturbed skin barrier function is of great interest in the field of dermatology and cosmetics. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the effect of positively charged oil/water nanoemulsions (PN) containing ceramide 3B and naturally found SC lipids (PNSC) such as ceramide 3, cholesterol, and palmitic acid on skin hydration, elasticity, and erythema. Creams of PNSC were compared to PN creams, to creams with negatively charged o/w nanoemulsion and SC lipids (NNSC) and to Physiogel cream, a SC lipid containing formulation, which is already on the market. The formulations (PN, PNSC, and NNSC) were prepared by high-pressure homogenization. After adding Carbopol 940 as thickener, particle size and stability of the creams were not significantly changed compared to the nanoemulsions. The studies were carried out on three groups, each with 14 healthy female test subjects between 25 and 50 years of age, using Corneometer 825, Cutometer SEM 575 and Mexameter 18 for measurements of skin hydration, elasticity, and erythema of the skin, respectively. The creams were applied regularly and well tolerated throughout the study. All formulations increased skin hydration and elasticity. There was no significant difference between PNSC and Physiogel. However, PNSC was significantly more effective in increasing skin hydration and elasticity than PN and NNSC indicating that phytosphingosine inducing the positive charge, SC lipids and ceramide 3B are crucial for the enhanced effect on skin hydration and viscoelasticity.
Article
The skin barrier function (SBF) is an important aspect of skin biology, particularly in the elicitation of inflammation. The SBF recovery rate after tape stripping and surfactant challenge can be assessed by measuring the transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Previous clinical studies have shown some inflammatory effect after topical applications of miconazole. The aim of this study was to compare the effect of pastes (petrolatum and 15% zinc oxide) containing or not miconazole nitrate on controlled impaired SBF. Fifteen volunteers were enrolled. In each subject, successive cyanoacrylate skin surface strippings were harvested from 5 sites of the volar forearm until TEWL raised above 15 g/cm(2)/h on all test sites. In addition, one daily soak session with a 0.2% dishwashing liquid further damaged the SBF. Each of the test formulations was applied twice daily for 5 days at two dosages, namely 1 and 2 mg/cm(2), on randomized test sites. Another site remained untreated. TEWL was measured daily for 5 days. A fastened SBF repair was observed on all treated sites, particularly where the largest amount of the products had been applied. A faster SBF recovery rate was obtained at the site receiving the miconazole nitrate paste. We conclude that the occlusive effect of a paste helped mitigate SBF defect. The adjunction of miconazole nitrate improved the efficacy.
Article
The skin protects the body's organs and tissues from damage and physical, chemical and bacteriological injuries. It also prevents the transcutaneous loss of water. The present study was conducted to assess the effects of additional dietary natural mineral water uptake on skin hydration and cutaneous well-being in subjects with dry skin. Eighty subjects (44 women and 36 males, mean age 56+/-5.6 years) were included in the study, randomised per forearm and stratified by gender. Skin surface hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sorption-desorption test, skin colour, thickness and micro-relief were evaluated on the forearms. Clinical scoring of dryness, roughness and elasticity was performed by a dermatologist. An improvement of skin hydration was observed after additional water uptake, statistically modifying the hydration level as well as TEWL, the water-binding capacity of the uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. Improvements of softness, smoothness and skin-moisturising effect were perceived by healthy subjects, and skin micro-relief was improved. We suggest that natural mineral water supplementation may be used in order to improve the hydration of skin dryness as a complementary cosmetic approach.
Article
The polysaccharide-rich composition of Aloe vera extracts (Aloe barbadensis Miller), often used in cosmetic formulations, may impart moisturizing properties to the product. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of cosmetic formulations containing different concentrations of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract on skin hydration, after a single and a 1- and 2-week period of application, by using skin bioengineering techniques. Stable formulations containing 5% (w/w) of a trilaureth-4 phosphate-based blend were supplemented with 0.10%, 0.25% or 0.50% (w/w) of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract and applied to the volar forearm of 20 female subjects. Skin conditions in terms of the water content of the stratum corneum and of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (Corneometer CM 825 and Tewameter TM 210) were analysed before and after a single and 1- and 2-week period of daily application. After a single application, only formulations supplemented with 0.25% and 0.50% (w/w) of Aloe vera extract increased the water content of the stratum corneum, while after the 2-week period application, all formulations containing the extract (0.10%, 0.25% and 0.50%) had the same effect, in both cases as compared with the vehicle. TEWL was not modified after a single and after 1- and 2-week period of application, when compared with the vehicle. Our results show that freeze-dried Aloe vera extract is a natural effective ingredient for improving skin hydration, possibly through a humectant mechanism. Consequently, it may be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also as a complement in the treatment of dry skin.
Article
Moisturizers are commonly used for routine skin care. This study assessed the effects of a moisturizer on barrier function, epidermal architecture, keratinocyte proliferation, and physiological regulation of the epidermis in photoaged but otherwise normal skin. Fifteen women with moderately photoaged forearms were treated twice a day for 4 weeks with a moisturizer containing dimethicone and glycerine. Baseline and post-treatment transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and ipsilateral forearm biopsies were obtained. Epidermal thickness, melanin levels, keratinocyte proliferation, and expression of keratins were evaluated. Induction of keratins 6 and 16, commonly associated with keratinocyte proliferation and wound healing, was observed. Epidermal thickness increased by 0.019 mm (P = 0.005), barrier function improved (TEWL decreased by 13%) and melanin intensity decreased (P = 0.004). Even nonxerotic, photoaged skin may appear younger, benefiting structurally and functionally from routine use of moisturizers containing dimethicone and glycerine.
Article
Moisturizers are commonly used by patients with dry skin conditions as well as people with healthy skin. Previous studies on short-term treatment have shown that moisturizers can weaken or strengthen skin barrier function and also influence skin barrier recovery. However, knowledge of the effects on skin barrier function of long-term treatment with moisturizers is still scarce. To investigate the impact of long-term treatment with moisturizers on the barrier function of normal skin, as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and susceptibility to an irritant, and to relate those effects to the composition of the designed experimental moisturizers. Volunteers (n = 78) were randomized into five groups. Each group treated one volar forearm for 7 weeks with one of the following preparations: (i) one of three simplified creams, containing only a few ingredients in order to minimize the complexity of the system; (ii) a lipid-free gel; (iii) one ordinary cream, containing 5% urea, which has previously been shown to decrease TEWL. The lipids in the simplified creams were either hydrocarbons or vegetable triglyceride oil, and one of them also contained 5% urea. After 7 weeks, treated and control forearms were exposed for 24 h to sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) using a patch test. TEWL, blood flow and skin capacitance of both SLS-exposed and undamaged skin were evaluated 24 h after removal of patches. Additionally, a 24-h irritancy patch test of all test preparations was performed on 11 volunteers in order to check their possible acute irritancy potential. Changes were found in the barrier function of normal skin after 7 weeks of treatment with the test preparations. The simplified creams and the lipid-free gel increased TEWL and skin response to SLS, while the ordinary cream had the opposite effect. One of the simplified creams also decreased skin capacitance. All test preparations were shown to be nonirritant, both by short-term irritancy patch test and by measurement of blood flow after long-term treatment. Moisturizers influence the skin barrier function of normal skin, as measured by TEWL and susceptibility to SLS. Moreover, the effect on skin barrier function is determined by the composition of the moisturizer. The ingredients which influence the skin barrier function need to be identified, and the mechanism clarified at the molecular level.
Article
Alcohol-based hand rubs are used worldwide to prevent transmission of nosocomial pathogens. To investigate skin irritation caused by alcohols alone and in combination with detergent washing. Single and repetitive patch testing with 60-100% alcohols [ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol (synonyms: isopropyl alcohol, isopropanol)], a positive control [0.5% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)] and negative controls (empty chamber and water) were performed. Wash tests were performed with 80% ethanol and 0.5% SLS on the forearms with each agent alone and with both agents in a tandem design. Skin hydration, erythema and barrier disruption [measured as transepidermal water loss (TEWL)] were evaluated (always 15 volunteers). We found no significant change in skin barrier or erythema induced by the alcohols in the patch tests, whereas skin hydration decreased significantly. Application of alcohols to previously irritated skin did not show a stronger skin barrier disruption than application of SLS alone. Wash tests demonstrated that alcohol application caused significantly less skin irritation than washing with a detergent (TEWL, P < 0.001; skin hydration, P < 0.05; erythema, P < 0.05). Even on previously irritated skin, ethanol did not enhance irritation. By contrast, a protective effect of ethanol used after skin washing was observed (TEWL, P < 0.05; skin hydration, P < 0.05; erythema, P < 0.05). Alcohol-based hand rubs cause less skin irritation than hand washing and are therefore preferred for hand hygiene from the dermatological point of view. An alcohol-based hand rub may even decrease rather than increase skin irritation after a hand wash due to a mechanical partial elimination of the detergent.
Article
Synopsis Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) has been widely used in cosmetics and dermatological formulations due to its inhibitory effect on melanogenesis by affecting collagen synthesis and scavenger properties. However, ascorbic acid (AA) is quickly oxidized and decomposes in aqueous solution and to solve this problem, vitamin C derivatives were synthesized. In the present investigation, histopathological, morphometric and stereological studies were carried out to investigate the possible alterations caused by formulations containing AA or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) in the epidermis. Gel creams either with or without 2% AA or its derivative were selected for investigation. Guinea‐pigs were shaved on the back, and four areas of 1.5 cm ² each were used for the experiments. One untreated area was used for control and the others for the application of gel cream formulations either with or without AA or its derivatives. The formulations were applied daily for 2, 4 and 8 weeks and biopsies were then obtained from each area using a dermatological punch. The material collected was analysed by histopathological, morphometric and stereological techniques. We observed that, under the present experimental conditions, whole formulations acted on the epidermis causing a thickening of the epithelium, with cells of larger volume in the granulose and spinous layers. Résumé En raison de son effet inhibiteur sur la melanogènese, sur la synthèse du collagène et de ses propriétés régénérantes, l’acide ascorbique (vitamine C) est depuis longtemps largement utilisé en Cosmétique et en Dermatologie. Cependant, l’acide ascorbique, en solution aqueuse, est très vite oxydé et décomposé. Dans le but de trouver une solution à ce problème, des dérivés de la vitamine C ont été synthétisés. Nous avons procédéà des études histopathologiques, morphométriques et stéréologiques pour analyser les altérations provoquées sur l’epiderme par des formules contenant de l’acide l ‐ascorbique ou du phosphate de magnésium l ‐ascorbyl. Des gels contenant 2% d’acide ascorbique ou ses dérivés, et les autres ne le contenant pas (contrôle), ont été sélectionnés pour tests. Quatre segments de 1,5 cm ² chacun ont été rasés sur le dos de cobayes pour des études plus approfondies. Un site non traité a été désigné comme groupe témoin alors que les autres ont été traités par des formules de gel contenant soit 2% d’acide ascorbique ou ses dérivés ou le véhicule. Les formules ont été appliquées une fois par jour pendant 15, 30 ou 60 jours suivis d’un prélèvement, avec une pince dermatologique, en vue d’obtention de biopsies. Le matériel prélevé a été analysé par des techniques histopathologiques, morphométriques et stéréologiques. Nous avons pu observer, dans les conditions des essais, que les formules agissaient sur l’épiderme en provoquant un épaississement de l’épithélium, formant une membrane cellulaire plus volumineuse disposée en plusieurs couches granuleuses et spineuses.
Preventive Treatment of Sunburn, Dermatoheliosis and Skin Cancer with Sun-Protective Agents
  • M A Pathak
  • T B Fitzpatrick
M. A. Pathak and T. B. Fitzpatrick, " Preventive Treatment of Sunburn, Dermatoheliosis and Skin Cancer with Sun-Protective Agents, " in Dermatology in General Medicine, T. B. Fitzpatrick, A. Z. Eilsen, K. Wolff, I. M. Freedberg, and K. F. Austen, Eds. (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1993) pp. 1689–1716.