Article

INDIA, THE MULTI-FIBRE ARRANGEMENT AND URAGUAY ROUND.

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Abstract

For more than 27 years, international trade in textiles has enjoyed exceptional treatment. The Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA), has provided the framework for "expansion of international trade in textiles in an orderly manner'. The arrangement benefits all parties. Established exporters and newcomers are guaranteed market shares in importing developed countries. It is also argued that appropriation of quota rents and increases in unit value of exports compensates the exporting countries for possible loss of higher market shares under the arrangement. However, it is now increasingly evident: that rents may be partially absorbed in importing countries; that quotas may become binding at less than 100% utilization; that capacity expansion and new investment may be adversely affected by the presence of quotas which create demand-pessimism in exporting countries. These issues have hitherto been largely ignored in the literature. This paper attempts to fill a gap by examining the impact of the MFA on the evolution and performance of India's garment industry. The industry has grown entirely on the basis of export demand. The next section describes the evolution of the garment industry in India and brings out the characteristic features of its organization and production structure. The relationship between the garment industry and the formal and informal segments of the cotton weaving and the man-made fiber industry is also discussed. The third section analyzes the volume, composition and direction of garment exports from India. The fourth section briefly describes the working of the quota allocation system in India. The actual effect of this system is also discussed. The last section combines our findings regarding the impact of the MFA on the Indian garment industry. -from Authors

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... In some instances, foreign suppliers may have sufficient information to utilize 100 percent of the available quotas. In other cases, current information on quota utilization 9 For example, Indian textile and apparel producers' ability (or lack thereof) to effectively utilize available quotas is discussed in Kumar and Khanna (1990). Also, see discussion in Trela and Whalley (1990, p. 1193, fn. 7). 10 Given these uncertainties, the ITC (1993) estimated two sets of export tax equivalents based on the assumption that MFA quotas were binding at utilization rates of 80 percent or greater and 90 percent or greater. ...
... S. import data 17 U.S. imports reported on the basis of customs value exclude insurance, freight, and other charges. 18 In earlier studies, prices for quotas traded in Taiwan were available. For example, Hamilton (1988) used Hong Kong and Taiwan quota prices to estimate the effects of the MFA on U.S. imports from Hong Kong, Taiwan, and South Korea. Kumar and Khanna (1990) used quota prices collected through surveys and, to a limited extent, from the Indian Government to estimate ad valorem tariff equivalents faced by Indian exporters. 19 Data on current quota prices are collected by the Hong Kong Trade and Development Council. The quota prices used in this analysis were collected by private brokers and p ...
... . Since the late 1980s, some 60-65% of quota licenses was allocated to firms based on their past performance. According to KUMAR andKHANNA [1990], these licenses were freely transferable and an active secondary market existed in which the licenses were bought and sold. In 1991, the rules were changed to allow only permanent transfers. ...
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