No full-text available
To read the full-text of this research,
you can request a copy directly from the authors.
Innovations in Natural Ingredients and Their Use in Skin Care
Abstract
Natural ingredients have been used traditionally for millennia and their application in topical creams, lotions and preparations within the traditional medicines and healing traditions of many cultures has been observed. Over the last 20 years, clinical and laboratory studies have identified the benefits of an array of natural ingredients for skin care. Consequently, a number of these ingredients and compounds are today being developed, used or considered not only for anti-aging effects, but also for use in dermatologic disorders. Certain ingredients, such as colloidal oatmeal and aloe vera, have been identified as beneficial in the treatment of psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, respectively, due to their anti-inflammatory properties. For combating acne and rosacea, green tea, niacinamide and feverfew are considered efficacious. As to hyperpigmentation and antioxidative capabilities, licorice, green tea, arbutin, soy, acai berry, turmeric and pomegranate are among those plants and compounds found to be most beneficial. Additional research is needed to determine to confirm and elucidate the benefits of these ingredients in the prevention and management of skin disease.
... Many have been shown to possess antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory activities suitable for the treatment of chronic disease. [37][38][39] These peptides have been classified as neurotransmitter affecting, signaling, topically protective, or as carrier peptides. Some synthetic peptides have been formulated to stimulate the production of collagen, elastin, proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans, and fibronectin, improving skin elasticity and appearance. ...
... Polyphenols contained in the test formulations are known to exert positive effects concerning skin hydration, moisture retention, and wrinkle Negative differences indicate an improvement in the appearance of pore size O R I G I N A L R E S E A R C H formation, mainly due to their free radical scavenging activity and the regulation of tyrosine kinase. [30][31][32][33][34][35][36][37][38][79][80][81] The supplementation of active nutrients with low-molecular-weight substrate molecules allows for easier permeation and has the capacity to both generate new keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and elastic fibers and improve their longevity, leading to a better skin appearance. 52,53 Various growth factors and peptides have been found to downregulate various inflammatory pathways, enhance cellular growth, stimulate stem cells, reverse cell senescence, and facilitate cell renewal. ...
... Many additional constituents included in LMFS and LSE (e.g., hydrolyzed collagen, sodium hyaluronate, Boswellia serrata extract, niacinamide, acetyl glucosamine, Centella asiatica extract, betulinic acid, Camellia sinensis (green tea) leaf extract) are not produced in the human body, decline with age, reduce oxidative stress, or have been shown to improve the production of vital structural proteins such as collagen and elastin. [22][23][24][25][26][27][28][29][30][31][32][33][34][35][36][37][38][39][40] However, the end result from their interaction, mutual potentiation, and coordinating action of multiple constituents may be unpredictably different and remains unknown. ...
BACKGROUND: Due to both intrinsic and extrinsic damage, the skin is where easily noticable signs of aging manifest. OBJECTIVE: We sought to assess the effects of two complex novel topical formulations, L'Unique Miracular Facial Serum (LMFS) and L'Unique Skin Essence (LSE) (Nourishing Biologicals LLC, St. Augustine, Florida) on hydration, firmness, elasticity, wrinkling, and pore size of facial skin after initial application and then after four, eight, and 12 weeks of use. METHODS: An open-label study was conducted on subjects (N=32) between the ages of 45 and 65 years (mean: 57 years). Subjects were treated with a twice-daily application of LMFS and LSE for a total of 12 weeks following a one-week washout period. The test products were gently applied in a circular motion to the face each morning and evening. Measurements of skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin elasticity and firmness and three-dimensional skin surface evaluations were performed at each visit. Skin lift and pore size assessments were also completed using clinical photography. Subjective outcomes were assessed by a posttreatment product efficiency survey at the end of each visit. RESULTS: Objective instrumental measurements showed statistically significant improvements in skin hydration (20.19%), TEWL (25.96% at 15 minutes), firmness (24.77%), skin elasticity (11.40%), and skin lift (5.41%) with product use. Improvements in pore size and wrinkle depth were not statistically significant. CONCLUSION: Use of the test products produced significant improvements in skin hydration, TEWL, firmness, and skin elasticity with associated improvements in facial skin appearance.
... Protects against hydroxyl radicals, glycosylation, and lipid peroxidation; scavenges superoxide anion 43,44 Euterpe oleracea fruit extract (acai) Protects against free radical damage to the skin during the in ammatory process 43,45,46 Vitis vinifera seed extract (grape) ...
... Protects against hydroxyl radicals, glycosylation, and lipid peroxidation; scavenges superoxide anion 43,44 Euterpe oleracea fruit extract (acai) Protects against free radical damage to the skin during the in ammatory process 43,45,46 Vitis vinifera seed extract (grape) ...
... CarnosineHelps quench hydroxyl radicals and provides IR protection52 Crocus sativus leaf extract (sa ron) Protects against free radical damage 53Olea europaea fruit extract (olive) Protects against UV exposure and DNA oxidation45 Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate Inhibits lipid peroxidation and mitigates damaging e ects of UV exposure4,48 Tocopheryl acetate Reduces formation of free radicals from UV exposure48 Tocopherol Prevents production of free radicals and protects skin from free radicals due to UV exposure4,48,54 Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract (licorice) Inhibits the amount of oxidative stress; anti-in ammatory properties43,45,55 Arabidopsis thaliana extract Supports the transport of antioxidants into skin; promotes DNA repair 58 IR: infrared; TEWL: transepidermal water loss; UV: ultraviolet; DNA: deoxyribonucleic acid; ROS: reactive oxygen species; Nrf2: nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 O R I G I N A L R E S E A R C H substantially expanded.12 Broad antioxidant protection is essential in counteracting di erent types of ROS or free radicals at all cellular compartments of the skin. ...
Objectives: Investigators sought to evaluate the antioxidant capacity of a comprehensive topical antioxidant (WEL-DS), its ability to protect skin against the oxidizing effects of UVA/UVB radiation, and to assess the effectiveness and tolerability of WEL-DS for visible improvements in facial photodamage. Study Designs:In-vitro testing utilized a hydrogen peroxide assay to detect activity in human skin explants following application with WEL-DS, a leading antioxidant serum (L-AOX), and a saline control. Clinical studies included a minimal erythema dose (MED) trial in female subjects, aged 35 to 60 years. Skin was initially irradiated to determine each subject's MED. WEL-DS was applied for four days to one site on the lower back of subjects; the other site remained untreated. Both sites were irradiated with 1X, 2X and 3X each subject's MED, digital images were obtained, and punch biopsies were collected from the 3X MED irradiated areas for histological analysis. A second clinical study evaluated efficacy and tolerability of twice daily application of WEL-DS in female subjects, aged 25 to 65 years with mild-to-moderate photodamage. Changes in fine lines/ wrinkles, dyschromia, erythema, skin tone, pores, and tolerability were assessed at baseline and Weeks 4, 8, and 12. A subset of subjects were evaluated through Week 16. Results: Skin treated with WEL-DS neutralized up to 53 percent more oxidative stress relative to L-AOX. WEL-DS-treated skin demonstrated significantly less UV-induced erythema at 1X, 2X, and 3X MED and demonstrated cellular protective effects versus untreated irradiated skin (N=5). WEL-DS demonstrated average improvements from baseline of 37 percent, fine lines/ wrinkles; 17 percent, skin tone; 13 percent, dyschromia; 18 percent, erythema; and four percent, pores (N=21; Week 12). Continued improvements were demonstrated in all parameters in an extension study (n=14; week 16). WEL-DS was well-tolerated. Conclusion: These studies demonstrate WEL-DS's innate ability to quench free radicals, protect skin from the oxidizing effects of UV radiation, and reduce the visible effects of facial photodamage.
... Aloe vera gel is also popular with several reviews evident emphasising anti-inflammatory, accelerated wound healing, anti-oxidant and anti-pruritic activities. There has been a contribution towards including A. vera into hydrogels and polymers [21,28,71,76,88,143,147,160,177,212,230,240,245,264]. One thorough review by Dat et al. ...
... There is no shortage of evidence that A. vera gel is a product of great potential. It is in fact a well-studied natural product with clinical trials and reviews reporting it as an effective agent with the potential to accelerate wound healing; however, research regarding the specific carrier oil is lacking and should be possibly given the equivalent attention [7,20,34,41,64,71,76,100,107,120,121,160,161,177,190,237,240,245,248,260]. ...
Wounds are a common medical infliction. With the increase in microbial resistance and a shift of interest towards complementary medicines, essential oils have been shown to be beneficial in suppressing microbial growth. However, in practice, essential oils are more often diluted into a base due to the risk of topical adverse effects, such as dermatitis. There is a lack of collated evidence-based information on toxicity and efficacy of carrier oils. The current information on the subject matter is restricted to generic, aroma-therapeutic books and pamphlets, based on anecdotal evidence rather than an experimental approach. Therefore, this review aimed at identifying the recommended carrier oils used in dermatology and thereafter collating the scientific evidence to support the use of carrier oils together with essential oils recommended for dermatological use. Aloe vera gel had multiple studies demonstrating the ability to enhance wound healing; however, several other carrier oils have been largely neglected. It was observed that the extracts for certain plant species had been used to justify the use of the carrier oils of the same plant species. This is an inaccurate cross assumption due to the difference in chemical composition and biological activities. Lastly, despite these carrier oils being recommended as a base for essential oils, very little data was found on the interactive profile of the carrier oil with the essential oil. This review provides a platform for further studies, especially if essential oils are to receive credence in the scientific field.
... Active ingredients from natural sources (plants, animals, microorganisms) have been traditionally used for centuries in topical creams and lotions (Fowler Jr. et al. 2010). The concern of consumer and huge potential of natural ingredients contributes to prevalent utilization of them in various industries (e.g. ...
... Quirin (2011) published in Euro Cosmetics magazine that phytosterol possess photoprotective and anti-wrinkle efficacy owing to cell division encouragement ability. Plant sterols are also provides moisture, barrier protection and antioxidant ability which present nutrition for health and skin (Fowler Jr. et al. 2010). Puglia and Bonina (2008) presented a work to evaluate the effect of topical application of soy phytosterols on skin damage and recovery of skin barrier. ...
Consumer consciousness on the concept of natural-based ingredients triggers the natural cosmetics market to grow. The active compounds in natural ingredients offer valuable bioactivities such as antioxidant, photoprotection, anti-aging and anti-inflammatory actions that useful for skincare, hair care and dental care. This review presents an overview on natural ingredient, especially plant-derived, used in cosmetic products and the examples of Malaysian plants used for cosmetic purposes. © 2018 Penerbit Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia. All Rights Reserved.
... Tuyet A. Nguyen, B.S., 1,3 Lawrence F. Eichenfield, M.D. 2,3 1 Albert Einstein College of Medicine, Bronx, NY; 2 University of California, San Diego, La Jolla, CA; 3 Rady Children's Hospital, San Diego, CA P soriasis is a common, chronic inflammatory skin disorder characterized by hyperkeratotic, scaly plaques often associated with pruritus, irritation, and decreased quality of life. 1 Treatment is typically aimed at minimizing signs and symptoms. Topical agents are the mainstay of treatment and include corticosteroids, vitamin D analogues, and emollients or moisturizers. ...
... 1 It is generally well known that in patients with chronic cutaneous diseases, alternative and complementary therapies are commonly used. 2,3 The literature critically reviewing the safety and efficacy of natural ingredients and herbal remedies in patients with chronic psoriasis is somewhat limited. While a Cochrane review on complementary and alternative therapies would be helpful in assessing the limited literature, one has not been previously completed, though there is one presently in the protocol stage of development. ...
... Consumers are firstly attracted by advertising campaigns and packaging, however, if the cosmetic product does not provide good sensory properties like fast absorbency, spreadability and smoothness, the consumers will likely not buy it again. [1] According to Fowler et al , the efficacy of natural ingredients in skin products depends on the biological activity in vitro as well as in vivo, the type of vehicle used to deliver the product to the skin and the stability of this product once applied to the skin to exert the desired effect. However, none of these properties are as important as the cosmetic acceptability with respect to color, odor and texture. ...
... Os consumidores são primeiramente atraídos pelas campanhas de publicidade e pela embalagem, no entanto, se o produto cosmético não proporciona boas propriedades sensoriais, tais como: absorção rápida, espalhabilidade e suavidade, provavelmente os consumidores não irão comprá-lo novamente. [1] De [2] De acordo com Parente et al , a aplicação de um mapa de preferência externo sobre as respostas dos consumidores por meio de um questionário "CATA" pode ser uma opção viável e interessante quando as empresas de cosméticos enfrentarem dificuldades na utilização de painéis com avaliadores treinados . Um questionário "CATA" consiste de uma lista de palavras ou frases na qual os entrevistados devem selecionar tudo o que eles consideram apropriado para descrever um produto. ...
Green coffee oil (GCO) is a well-known ingredient with cosmetic properties such as: maintaining skin hydration, improving the sun protection factor and maintaining the skin barrier function. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the impact of the addition of a considerable amount of GCO (15%) on the sensory properties of a cosmetic formulation. The sensory panel consisted of nineteen volunteers aged between 19 and 43 years old. Sensory attributes were assessed on a 25 cm2 defined region on the internal side of the forearm. The volunteers were instructed to evaluate the sensory properties that they felt each formulation demonstrated, immediately after application and then after a further 5 minutes. The formulations had almost the same perceived effect among the
volunteers. The majority of volunteers noted their skin as soft and moisturized after application of the formulations. However, the perception of an oily residue on the skin was the main effect of the formulation containing GCO. Thus, we can conclude that the total amount of GCO used, revealed interesting properties for use in dry skin or night creams, since it was able to leave an oily film on skin.
... It gives skin feeling smooth and nourished instead of sore and irritated like other products that contain harmful chemicals [4,5]. Natural extract is primarily added to the skin care formulation due to several associated properties such as antioxidant capacity pigmentation inhibition and antimicrobial activity, which can be beneficial for attenuation for prevention of various skin condition [6][7][8]. Over the last 20 years, clinical and laboratory studies have identified the benefits of an array of natural ingredients for skin care. ...
Skin comprises the largest organ of human body with over 20 vital physiological function one of which is a physical barrier to withstand pressure and trauma, It protects the body from pollution, radiation, sunlight, helps to regulate temperature, fluid balance, and excretion. Also involving endocrine function through the production of cholecalciferol by epidermis. People with sensitive skin are prone to get irritation, and products with chemicals, other strange often leave skin feeling dry, red, and sore. This survey was planned to gauge opinion and receive feedback from people of various age group in order to have a report of public knowledge regarding natural skin care drugs. It was planned to obtain statistics of public knowledge of skin health and create awareness amongst people to follow skin care routine and maintain it. The questionnaire designed to understand impact of plants in our day-to-day life. The survey was successfully conducted between 130-134 People. As the survey focuses on taking immediate instinct, 57.9% of participants prefer direct application of plant/herb home remedies whereas 39.1% choose organic marketed creams. Aloe vera, turmeric, tomato, dry coriander are easily available drugs and thus following the subtly made method of application.
... Appearance of wrinkles and overhangs in place of firm and stiff skin is attributed to the loss of elasticity of skin. The mechanics behind anti-aging effect is that Aloe stimulates fibroblast which produces the collagen and elastin fibers, making the skin more elastic and less wrinkled (Fowler et al., 2010). They produce cohesive effect on the superficial flaking epidermal cells, by sticking them together, which soften the skin. ...
This book is an effort to throw light on the importance of biologically active molecules which are isolated from different plants, their biological activity, extraction from natural sources and their in vivo production to preserve the biodiversity of medicinal plants.
... Furthermore, phytochemicals have been found to inhibit or prevent the physiological mechanisms leading to many common skin conditions, includes hyperpigmentation, acne, and skin aging. These herbal extracts are primarily added to the skincare formulations due to several associated properties such as antioxidant capacity, pigmentation inhibition, and antimicrobial activity, which can also be beneficial for attenuation and prevention of various skin conditions (9,18). ...
Skin is the largest organ of the human body which has been outlined to have more than 20 vital physiological functions. Skin acts as a protective barrier against pressure and trauma. It also acts as a barrier for external environments including pollution, sunlight, radiation, harmful microbes, and chemical. Skincare products are medicinal formulations prepared to be used on external parts of the human body to produce therapeutic topical eff ects and shield the deteriorated skin. Herbal skincare creams have been widely used by many generations for centuries for the purpose of skincare. Nowadays, these herbal skincare creams are becoming more popular and prevalent among people due to their mindset and concerns about synthetic or chemical substances that may lead to adverse eff ects. The main factors that lead to the usage of herbal ingredients in skincare creams are their outstanding antioxidant, antimicrobial, and tyrosinase inhibition properties. The studies on the potential pharmacologically active herbs for skincare creams allow us to understand their importance. In this review, several examples of herbs being used and still undergoing clinical studies were identified according to different skin conditions includes hyperpigmentation, skin aging, and acne. This detailed work might contribute to accomplishing consumer demand.
... Licorice, green tea, arbutin, soybean, acai berry, turmeric, and pomegranate are the most effective and helpful plants and compounds in terms of hyperpigmentation and antioxidant function. 25 Table 3 summarizes safe and edible natural ingredients from the point of view of clean beauty. ...
Background:
In February 2020, WHO announced the outbreak of coronavirus disease-19 (COVID-19) in a global epidemic, and the COVID-19 vaccine has recently been developed and approved in many countries to release disease radio waves. Immediately distributed and used to control and control infections. During the COVID-19 pandemic, the world closed extensively in beauty and beauty services to control the spread of the virus.
Objectives:
Therefore, this study for the first time that the perspective of safety in sustainable may be applied to the entire alteration of beauty industry market in the post-COVID-19 pandemic for literature review.
Methods:
A Narrative Review is proposed as a new report and commentary on the sustainable change of beauty market trends centered on safety due to the COVID-19 pandemic in December 2020. It was written with reference to keywords such as "Covid Beauty Market," "Covid Sustainable," "Covid clean beauty," and "Safety beauty." This study was performed by searching on PubMed, Google Scholar, Scopus, and ResearchGate. A total of 383 papers were retrieved, of which 36 were successfully included in this study.
Results:
Analysis of customers and markets in the beauty industry since COVID-19 was absolutely required at this time. Harmful and safe edible ingredients of clean beauty perspective should be compared and analyzed. In addition, importance of sustainability value from a clean beauty perspective should be considered.
Conclusion:
There is an era in which the perspective of safety in sustainable may be applied to the entire beauty industry today. In addition, depending on the customer's perception change, beyond the ingredients, raw material procurement of products, manufacturing process, product experiments, etc. are part of clean beauty to minimize carbon emissions, water use, recycle product containers, and reduce waste.
... For instance, keratinocytes are at the first line of defense against skin pathogens, stimulating the production of several inflammatory agents such as cytokines and antimicrobial peptides [2,4,5]. On the other hand, the use of natural extracts as skin formulas is constantly increasing as a result of their essential characteristics [6]. In addition, there is an increasing demand for skin care products containing less synthetic compounds, health and eco-friendly as also highly effective. ...
Background
Natural products are not only positioned in the heart of traditional medicine but also in modern medicine as many current drugs are coming from natural sources. Apart from the field of medicine and therapeutics, natural products are broadly used in other industrial fields such as nutrition, skincare products and nanotechnology.
Methods and results
The aim of this study was to assess the effects of sweet cherry (Prunus avium L.) fruit extract from the Greek native cultivar ‘Vasiliadi’, on the human 2D and 3D in vitro models in order to investigate its potential impact on skin. We focused on 2D culture of primary normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) that were treated with sweet cherry fruit extract. In the first place, we targeted fruit extract potential cytotoxicity by determining ATP intracellular levels. Furthermore, we assessed its potential skin irritability by using 3D skin model. To better understand the bioactivity of sweet cherry fruit. extract, we used qPCR to study the expression of various genes that are implicated in the skin functions. Our experiments showed that sweet cherry fruit extract is non-toxic in 2D keratinocytes culture as well as non-irritant in 3D skin model. Our results revealed that the extract mediated important pathways for the optimum epidermis function such as cell proliferation, immune and inflammatory response.
Conclusion
The sweet cherry fruit extracts possesses significant activity in epidermis function without any potential of cytotoxicity or skin irritability, which makes it a rather promising active agent for skincare.
... Natural ingredients have been used traditionally for dermatologic disorder which over the last 20 years, clinical and laboratory studies have identified the benefit of natural ingredient for skin care [6]. Artocarpus heterophyllus (A. ...
Artocarpus heterophyllus (A.heterophyllus) is one of plants that commonly used for skin care. This study aimed to formulate a clay mask preparation with the active ingredient A.heterophyllus 3% leaf extract and evaluating its activities in repairing facial moisture, smoothness, large pores, blemishes and wrinkles. The process of providing clay masks begins with the preparation of Artocarpus heterophyllus leaf etanol extracts with standardized quality, preparation of clay mask bases with guaranteed quality, mixing clay mask bases with extracts, testing the quality and stability and effectiveness of skin care tested. The extract of clay mask formulations were stable in storage, homogeneous, pH 5.6-6.3; drying time is 10-18 minutes, and does not irritate. Effectiveness testing was performed using a skin analyzer for 4 weeks of treatment in adult female volunteers. Test results after 4 weeks of treatment showed that the ethanol extract of A. heterophyllus leaves 3% was able to improve moisture (15.5%), smoothness (33.1%), pore size (60.1%), blemishes (50.2%) and facial wrinkles (61.5%). Statistically, significant effects were found in moisture and smoothnes of the facial skin (p < 0.05). This study concluded that ethanol extract of A. heterophyllus in concentration of 3% have benefit in refining facial skin.
... Plants have long been used for medicinal purposes, and it is likely that new products containing natural oils and herbs will continue to emerge on the market in the coming years. Before the use of synthetic substances with similar properties, plants were the primary sources of all cosmetics [7]. Natural plant molecules continue to pique the interest of researchers. ...
In recent years, interest in the health effects of natural antioxidants has increased due to their safety and applicability in cosmetic formulation. Nevertheless, efficacy of natural antioxidants in vivo is less documented than their prooxidant properties in vivo. Plant extracts rich in vitamins, flavonoids, and phenolic compounds can induce oxidative damage by reacting with various biomolecules while also providing antioxidant properties. Because the biological activities of natural antioxidants differ, their effectiveness for slowing the aging process remains unclear. This review article focuses on the use of natural antioxidants in skincare and the possible mechanisms underlying their desired effect, along with recent applications in skincare formulation and their limitations.
... An assessor-blind clinical trial conducted on acute burn patients showed that the patients experienced less itching and requested significantly less antihistamine when using liquid paraffin with 5% colloidal oatmeal compared to liquid paraffin only [101]. Colloidal oatmeal has also been found to be beneficial in the treatment of psoriasis and atopic dermatitis [165][166][167]. One of the studies showed the effective treatment of acneiform eruption induced by an epidermal growth factor receptor and multiple tyrosine kinase inhibitors via a colloidal oatmeal lotion [102]. ...
Oat is among the food crops and ancient grains cultivated and consumed worldwide. It is gaining in popularity owing to its nutritional composition and multifunctional benefits of select bioactive compounds. Beta-glucan is an important component of dietary fiber found in oat grains. It is the major active compound in oats with proven cholesterol-lowering and antidiabetic effects. Oats also provide substantial levels of other bioactive compounds such as phenolic acids, tocols, sterols, avenacosides, and avenanthramides. The consumption of oats has been determined to be beneficial for human health by promoting immunomodulation and improving gut microbiota. In addition, oat consumption assists in preventing diseases such as atherosclerosis, dermatitis, and some forms of cancer. While much has been published in relation to oat nutrients and oat fibers and their impact on major diseases, the oat industries and consumers may benefit from greater knowledge and understanding of clinical effects, range of occurrence, distribution, therapeutic doses and food functional attributes of other oat bioactives such as avenanthramides and saponins as well as other anti-inflammatory agents found in the cereal. This review focuses on the various studies relevant to the contribution of the consumption of oats and oat-based products in preventing human diseases and promoting human health.
... In addition, phytosterol offers photo-protection and anti-wrinkle property owing to cell division facilitation ability (Quirin, 2011). Phytosterols also offer mosturization and barrier protection, as well as provide nutrition for healthy skin (Fowler et al., 2010). A previous study proved that topical administration of soy phytosterols helped to repair skin cells and recover skin barrier function on the skin damage (Puglia and Bonina, 2008). ...
Kenaf is an alternative fiber crop which is economically viable and ecologically friendly. Kenaf seeds oil, kenaf seeds extract, and kenaf leaves extract were found to have a high content of bioactive compounds to offer antioxidants and medicinal benefits, which could be a potential source in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The application of encapsulation technologies on kenaf derivatives can help to develop new highly effective cosmetic formulations. Different encapsulation technologies were applied on kenaf derivatives to improve the stability and functionality for cosmeceutical application. Technologies such as nanoemulsion, nanostructured lipid carriers, co-extrusion, and spray drying of kenaf seed oil were found to enhance its stability and manage the release of unsaturated oils in cosmetic formulations. Besides, the applications of solid lipid nanocarriers, liposomes, niosomes, and Pickering emulsion were discussed in this paper to show its potential in the encapsulation of kenaf derivatives. This review described the chemical composition and nutritional quality of the kenaf derivatives, and the technologies for cosmetic formulation to enhance our knowledge to use these by-products in the cosmetic application and their advantages. This review has important implications to stimulate its possible utilization and application of kenaf in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.
... Although scientific studies have been reported on the functions and potential application of natural bioactive compounds, either individually or in mixtures, the search for natural sources is permanent in order to guarantee the development of innovative cosmetic products (Hasmida and Siti 2018). Active ingredients from natural sources have traditionally been used for centuries in topical creams and lotions (Fowler et al. 2010). ...
Fruits of the Brazilian Cerrado: Composition and Functional Benefits describes the nutritional, chemical and physical characteristics of the fruits of the Cerrado, as well as their pharmacological effects and use in phytotherapics. Chapters are dedicated to the morphological characteristics, macronutrients, micronutrients and active compounds of various fruits, with separate sections covering their peels, leaves, nuts, pulps, and other components.
The text also includes detailed studies on the treatment of diseases with these natural products, as well as their applications in popular use by local communities. Authors explain the importance of bioactive compounds found in the fruits and their possible mechanisms of action in the organism. This text thus provides a valuable reference to researchers studying a range of topics, including functional foods, phytotherapy, and plant science.
... Although scientific studies have been reported on the functions and potential application of natural bioactive compounds, either individually or in mixtures, the search for natural sources is permanent in order to guarantee the development of innovative cosmetic products (Hasmida and Siti 2018). Active ingredients from natural sources have traditionally been used for centuries in topical creams and lotions (Fowler et al. 2010). ...
Acrocomia aculeata contains various phytochemicals that contribute to the health benefits, and the consumption of both pulp and kernel is very popular in the Brazilian Cerrado region. Although a lot of research has been conducted, none review of the literature about health benefits of Acrocomia aculeata and its phytochemicals has been compiled. In this sense, this chapter aimed to present the results of studies carried out on the species in traditional application, phytochemicals, health benefits and toxicology of the fruit, kernel and leaves of A. aculeata. The main phytochemicals found in pulp, kernel and leaves are rutin, quercetin and tocopherols. These common phytochemicals are responsible for health effects such as: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial, hypolipidemic and diuretic effects. Moreover, toxicological studies have been explored to evaluate the safety of parts of the plant that are commonly consumed and provide information on benefits and uses. This work compiles several useful reports for researchers interested in biological activity and main uses of A. aculeata.
... Although scientific studies have been reported on the functions and potential application of natural bioactive compounds, either individually or in mixtures, the search for natural sources is permanent in order to guarantee the development of innovative cosmetic products (Hasmida and Siti 2018). Active ingredients from natural sources have traditionally been used for centuries in topical creams and lotions (Fowler et al. 2010). ...
The Caryocar spp. plants are well known in Brazil, especially for inhabitants of Cerrado biome, commonly called as Pequi, Piqui or Piquiá. The fruit is a typical and characteristic fruit of the midwest region, being appreciated in the traditional cuisine, especially because of their “exotic” flavor and unique manner to consume it, due to its thorny endocarp. Due to its traditional use, mainly as food, nutraceutical, or as medicine, the whole plant has been paid attention to by the scientific community. Thus, considering the high potential of the plant, especially pulp and almond fruit parts, this chapter presents a wide introduction about the chemical composition, food properties and a large biological properties identified by several studies, mainly in the last decades. The fruit presents excellent properties as food, being a satisfactory source of proteins, lipids, carbohydrates and minerals. The fatty acids content varies including the saturated palmitic acid, monounsaturated oleic acid and polyunsaturated arachidonic acid. Besides, several bioactive compounds were identified such as carotenoids; phenolic compounds, including flavonoids; α-tocopherol and tannins. The Caryocar spp. plants have shown interesting biological action for several purposes, i.e., as anti-inflammatory, dermatological, anti-microbiological, gastroprotection, hepatic, vascular and cardioprotection as well as anticancer and antigenotoxicity properties, being a promising ally to human health.
... There is a wide range of natural resources that can be explored and exploited to fulfil consumer demand, such as plants and herbs. Active ingredients from these natural sources have long been used traditionally in topical lotions and creams [5]. However, there are many other resources, such as algae and mushrooms, that can be further explored and exploited as new cosmetic or cosmeceutical functional ingredients. ...
Cosmeceutical formulations containing naturally derived active ingredients are currently preferred by consumers worldwide. Mushrooms are one of the potential sources for cosmeceutical ingredients but relevant research is still lacking. In this study, hot-and cold-water extractions were performed on four locally-cultivated mushrooms-Pleurotus ostreatus, Ganoderma lucidum, Auricularia polytricha and Schizophyllum commune-with the aim to assess the cosmeceutical potential of these mushroom fruitbody extracts. Total phenolics, polysaccharide and glucan content were determined. Antioxidant property of the mushroom extracts was assessed by determining the DPPH radical scavenging, ferric-reducing (FRAP) and superoxide anion (SOA) scavenging activity. Anti-hyaluronidase activity was used as an indicator for the anti-aging and anti-inflammatory property, while anti-tyrosinase activity was evaluated to assess the anti-pigmentation or whitening property of these extracts. Our results showed that total polysaccharide content of P. ostreatus extracts was the highest (235.8-253.6 mg GE/g extract), while extracts from G. lucidum contained the lowest glucan (10.12-10.67%). Cold-water extract from S. commune exhibited substantial tyrosinase inhibition activity (98.15%) and SOA scavenging activity (94.82%). The greatest hyaluronidase activity was exhibited by G. lucidum hot-water extract, with the value of 72.78%. The findings from the correlation analyses suggest that the cosmeceutical properties of these mushrooms can be attributed mainly to the combination of different types of compound such as polysaccharides and phenolics. Overall, cold-water extract of S. commune and hot-water extract of G. lucidum showed the best results and may be further investigated.
... Facial skin care (FSC) is important in maintaining and improving skin function. Ingredients of FSC products are known to improve skin problems such as wrinkles, spots, and rough skin texture [1,2]. Furthermore, the use of certain hand motions during FSC is expected to have beneficial physiological effects. ...
Background:
Facial skin care (FSC) is an important routine for Japanese women. Hand motions during FSC physically affect psychological state. However, it is very difficult to evaluate hand motions during personal and complex FSC. The objective of this study was to find out objective and quantitative parameters for hand motions during facial skin care (FSC). Women who enjoy and soothe during FSC (Enjoyment group (E group), n = 20) or not (non-enjoyment group (NE group), n = 19) were recruited by an advance questionnaire. The same lotion, emulsion, and cream were provided to all subjects, and they used sequentially in the same way as the women's daily FSC. The motion of the marker on the back side of the right middle finger during FSC was tracked by a motion capture system. The heart rate variability (HRV) was also measured before and after FSC for evaluating psychological effect.
Results:
The averaged acceleration (Avg. ACC), approximate entropy (ApEn), and power law scaling exponent (Rest γ) of the cumulative duration of slow motion from the sequential data of acceleration were evaluated. Compared to the NE group, the E group showed a lower Avg. ACC when using emulsion (p = 0.005) and cream (p = 0.007), a lower ApEn when using emulsion (p = 0.003), and a lower Rest γ (p = 0.024) when using all items, suggesting that compared to the NE group, the E group had more tender and regular motion, and sustainable slow motions, especially in the use of emulsion. In the E group, the low/high-frequency component of HRV decreased significantly after FSC, suggesting suppression of sympathetic activity (p = 0.045). NE group did not. For all subjects, ApEn and Rest γ showed significantly positive correlation with the increase in the low/high-frequency component of HRV after FSC (p < 0.01). ApEn showed significantly negative correlation with the increase in the high-frequency component of HRV after FSC (p < 0.05). Avg. ACC did not show significant correlation with them. These results suggested that the behavior of FSC influences the autonomic nerve system.
Conclusions:
ApEn and Rest γ are useful parameters for evaluating quality of hand motions during FSC.
... Curcumin: Turmeric, belonging to the ginger family that is widely used in the Asian region as a cooking spice has been used to treat dermatological diseases. 249,250 Curcumin, the major active ingredient of turmeric, possesses antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and even anticancer properties. 251,252 Recently, the influence of curcumin on telomerase has received widespread attention. ...
Ever present hurdles for the discovery of new drugs for cancer therapy have necessitated the development of the alternative strategy of drug repurposing, the development of old drugs for new therapeutic purposes. This strategy with a cost-effective way offers a rare opportunity for the treatment of human neoplastic disease, facilitating rapid clinical translation. With an increased understanding of the hallmarks of cancer and the development of various data-driven approaches, drug repurposing further promotes the holistic productivity of drug discovery and reasonably focuses on target-defined antineoplastic compounds. The “treasure trove” of non-oncology drugs should not be ignored since they could target not only known but also hitherto unknown vulnerabilities of cancer. Indeed, different from targeted drugs, these old generic drugs, usually used in a multi-target strategy may bring benefit to patients. In this review, aiming to demonstrate the full potential of drug repurposing, we present various promising repurposed non-oncology drugs for clinical cancer management and classify these candidates into their proposed administration for either mono- or drug combination therapy. We also summarize approaches used for drug repurposing and discuss the main barriers to its uptake.
... In the past years, new treatments have been developed, but sometimes these agents have side effects or are difficult to tolerate in the long term. Therefore, the use of natural agents such as licorice, green tea, soybeans, acai berries, turmeric, and pomegranate [49] became more frequent for the treatment of diseases and prevention of the relapses. Salvia officinalis L. and Tropaeolum majus L. were chosen as extracts for the experiment due to the following beneficial properties: antioxidant and protective capacity against side effects of different drugs; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and modulatory role in apoptosis; and antiproliferative ability. ...
Background. The antimicrobial activity and effects of a phytocomplex consisting of Tropaeolum flos (T) and Salviae folium (S) extracts on the cytokine levels and transcription factors on dermal fibroblast BJ exposed to bacterial lipopolysaccharides were examined. Methods. In order to select the most optimal combination ratio of the two extracts for using in vitro, the physicochemical characterization of vegetal extract mixtures was performed and the antioxidant and antibacterial activities were evaluated on five different formulations of T : S, namely, 1 : 1, 1 : 2, 2 : 1, 3 : 1, and 1 : 3. The best combination of bioactive compounds with regard to antioxidant and antibacterial activities (T : S 1 : 2) was selected for in vitro evaluation of the anti-inflammatory effect. Human dermal fibroblast BJ cells were treated with two doses of the extract mixture and then exposed to bacterial lipopolysaccharides (LPS). The levels of the cytokines involved in inflammatory response, namely, interleukin- (IL-) 6, tumor necrosis factor- (TNF-) α, IL-31, and IL-33, were quantified by ELISA, and the expression of transcription factors, namely, signal transducer and activator of transcription (STAT) 3, nuclear factor kappa B (NFκB), and phosphorylated NFκB (pNFκB), were evaluated by western blot analysis. Results. The results have shown that the mixture of T : S 1 : 2 exhibited significant antibacterial effects on Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 25923. LPS exposure increased the cytokine levels in BJ cells and enhanced the NFκB expression. The pretreatment of BF cells exposed to LPS with the two doses of the extract mixture markedly inhibited the increase of IL-33 and TNF-α levels and amplified the NFκB expression and its activation, especially with the high dose. The low doses of the extract reduced NFκB expression but increased its activation. Conclusions. These experimental findings suggest that the mixture of T : S 1 : 2 can exert some protection against bacterial infections and inflammation induced by LPS in BJ cells being a good therapeutic option in related conditions associated with inflammation.
1. Introduction
In the recent years, more and more studies focused on the pathogenetic mechanisms of atopic dermatitis (AD) and its treatment. Atopic dermatitis is one of the most common chronic inflammatory skin diseases whose incidence has increased considerably over the past decades, especially in industrialized countries. Thus, the prevalence of atopic dermatitis varies between 7% and 30% in children and between 1% and 10% in adults and evolves with a significant decrease in the quality of their life [1, 2].
AD is a complex condition with multifactorial aetiology, characterized by periods of exacerbation and remission with dry skin (xerosis), pruritus, and increased loss of transepidermal water [3]. With all the remarkable progress made, the cause of AD has not been completely elucidated. Most studies consider that the disease appears as a result of the combined action of genetic features, barrier dysfunction, and environmental, immunological, and biochemical factors. The key factor in the pathogenesis of this disease is the alteration of the skin barrier due to loss of the functions of filaggrin, a structural protein, important for cornification and skin hydration [4]. In addition, the affected skin is deficient in ceramide and has increased levels of endogenous proteolytic enzymes, responsible for transepidermic loss of water and alteration of cutaneous barrier function [5].
Several studies have shown the involvement of the imbalance of Th2 to Th1 cytokines and consequently the increased systemic response of Th2-type lymphocytes which initiate and maintain skin inflammation [6] and also enhance the hyperreactivity to environmental factors. Dysfunction of Th2 lymphocytes and cytokines released by them, namely, IL-4, IL-5, and IL-13, lead to increased immunoglobulin (Ig) E production, which amplifies the local inflammation and deteriorates the skin barrier function. In addition, Th17 and Th22 lymphocytes released the IL-17, IL-19, and IL-22 cytokines known to be involved in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis [7, 8]. As a response to changes in the skin barrier function, the keratinocytes secreted cytokines, such as stromal lymphopoietin, IL-25, and IL-33, which in turn activate Th2 lymphocytes and congenital lymphoid cells (ILC2) [9].
Several papers have suggested that new tissue-derived cytokines such as IL-33 have a significant role in AD [10, 11]. IL-33 belongs to the IL-1 family, and it is secreted by damaged tissues and activates Th2 lymphocytes, mast cells, basophils, and eosinophils to produce Th2-type cytokines [12, 13]. It seems that IL-33 would have a dual function: one by extracellular action, as a member of the IL-1 cytokine family, and the other by intracellular action, as nuclear factor that regulates gene expression [14–17].
Several evidences have shown an association of IL-31, a cytokine secreted by Th2 cells, mast cells, macrophages, and dendritic cells, with severe pruritus in inflammatory diseases including AD. The blocking of its expression mitigates the scratching behaviour in AD and chronic spontaneous urticaria [18, 19]. The expression of IL-31RA in human keratinocytes and macrophages is low in an unstimulated condition [21], and it is upregulated by interferon γ and toll-like receptor 2/toll-like receptor 1 agonists [20]. Binding of IL-31 to its receptor determines the phosphorylation and activation of the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK), c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), and STAT pathways [22].
In recent years, there has been a growing demand for medicinal and aromatic herbs in the world due to the increased content in biologically active substances frequently used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food industries. Considerable research pointed out the potential effectiveness of natural compounds in biology and medicine due to their potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory properties [23–25]. These can be benefited by diet or through skin application, diminishing symptoms and inhibiting the development of various skin diseases without having the side effects of corticosteroids. Salvia officinalis L. (common sage) and Tropaeolum majus L. (garden nasturtium) are two of the most promising species for medical applications. Salvia officinalis L., the common sage or garden sage, is a perennial herb of the Lamiaceae family. Several studies demonstrated that Salvia officinalis L. had different biological activities which have antibacterial, virustatic, fungistatic, astringent, and antihydrotic effects [26–30]. The effects were due to the triterpenes oleanolic and ursolic acids and diterpene carnosol from a composition with anti-inflammatory properties and antiprotease and antimetastatic activities [31, 32]. In other Salvia species such as the S. verticillata subsp. amasica extract, the main compound identified was rosmarinic acid which explained the strong antioxidant activity [33].
Tropaeolum majus L., a garden nasturtium of the Tropaeolaceae family, is an annual plant originally from the Andes, Bolivia, Peru, and Colombia, known for the properties of the aerial part of Tropaeoli herba or the flowers of Tropaeoli flos [3, 34]. The Tropaeolum majus L. extract demonstrated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities due to its content of polyphenols, flavonoids, and ascorbic acid in different experimental models [35, 36].
Based on these data, the study is aimed at evaluating the physicochemical properties of the mixture of the two vegetal extracts obtained from crops harvested in Bihor County, Romania’s northern area, as well as evaluating the in vitro antioxidant capacity in order to assess their biological activities on human dermal fibroblast BJ exposed to bacterial lipopolysaccharides (LPS). It is known that LPS is a major component of the outer membrane of gram negative bacteria and a potent inductor of inflammation. Moreover, its bioactive moiety endotoxin can be measured in dust collected from homes. In addition, there are some papers which demonstrated a positive relationship between exposure to endotoxin and the high incidence of atopic dermatitis [37]. Therefore, we used BJ cells exposed to LPS as a model to simulate in vitro atopic dermatitis.
We also tested the antimicrobial activity against different bacteria using the reference microbial strains and also the human clinical isolates from patients with infections or from the hospital environment. The evaluation of antimicrobial activity of the mixture of two extracts was important due to the increased incidence of infections in atopic dermatitis and the role played by infection as a trigger for disease exacerbation.
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Reagents
Galic acid, quercetin, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH free radical), 2,2-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonate) (ABTS), the ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), Folin Ciocâlteu reagents, and lipopolysaccharides from Escherichia coli O111:B4 were purchased from Sigma-Aldrich Chemicals GmbH (Germany). The Bradford reagent was from Merck KGaA (Darmstadt, Germany). ELISA tests for the evaluation of IL-6, IL-31, IL-33, TNF-α, and STAT3 were from R&D Systems Inc. (Minneapolis, MN, USA). The goat polyclonal IgG antibody for NFκB and pNFκB and the secondary antibody mouse anti-goat and glyceraldehyde 3-phosphate dehydrogenase (GAPDH) were bought from Santa Cruz Biotechnology Inc. (Santa Cruz, CA, USA). All the chemicals used were of analytical grade.
2.2. Plant Materials and Preparation of the Extract
Salvia officinalis L. and Tropaeolum majus L. plants were harvested from crops in Bihor County, Romania, in June–July 2018. The voucher specimens from both species were deposited in the Herbarium Pharmacy Department, University of Oradea (registered in the NYBG William and Lynda Steere Herbarium, code: UOP 05212 for Salvia officinalis L. and code: UOP 05073 for Tropaeolum majus L.). The plant material was dried after harvesting using an FDK 24 DW Gorenje dryer at 40°C for total moisture removal. The next step further, which was the vegetable product shredding, is one of the important factors in achieving the extractive preparations. By increasing the contact surface of the plant and solvent product, the extraction time is reduced and the extraction efficiency is increased. The degree of grinding of the plant products was chosen according to the European Pharmacopoeia (Ph Eur. 9th) and the Romanian Pharmacopoeia (FR X) and was passed through sieve I after a preliminary grinding with an electrical mill [38, 39].
The extracts were obtained by maceration at room temperature according to the European Pharmacopoeia (Ph. Eur. 9th) and Romanian Pharmacopoeia (FR X). The method was applied to both extracts of the flowers of Tropaeolum majus L. (denoted T) and extracts of the leaves of Salvia officinalis L. (denoted S). Each plant product was subjected to 30c ethyl alcohol maceration at room temperature (20°C) for 24 hours; the plant/30c alcohol ratio was 20% (/). After completion of the extraction, they were decanted and filtered using nylon filter paper, 100 μm.
2.3. Physicochemical Properties of the Mixture of Extracts
In previous papers, we performed the evaluation of the polyphenol and flavonoid content of each extract by reversed-phase HPLC (RP-HPLC) [35, 40]. The RP-HPLC analysis of the Tropaeolum majus L. extract has shown the following composition: in phenolic acids—gallic, caffeic, syringic, synapic, vanillic, p-coumaric, and ferulic; and in flavonoids—catechin hydrate, rutin trihydrate, naringenin, luteolin, quercetin dihydrate, epicatechin, and myricetin [41]. The Salvia officinalis L. extract has an increased content of gallic acid, epicatechin, rutin, p-coumaric acid, luteolin, and quercetin.
Polyphenolic compounds and flavonoids have beneficial properties, acting as antioxidants in a biological system under oxidative stress conditions. In order to select the optimal combination ratio of the two extracts, several T : S combinations were used, namely, 1 : 1, 1 : 2, 2 : 1, 3 : 1, and 1 : 3. For this study, we evaluated the content of bioactive compounds based on their antioxidant properties demonstrated by in vitro methods.
2.3.1. Determination of the Content in Polyphenolic Compounds
Determination of the content in polyphenolic compounds was performed by the Folin-Ciocâlteu method, the results being expressed in gallic acid (GAE) equivalents (mg/mL). In order to achieve this determination, 100 μL of fluid extract was taken and mixed with 1750 μL distilled water, 200 μL of Folin-Ciocâlteu reagent (diluted 1 : 10 /), and 1000 μL of 15% Na2CO3 solution and then kept at room temperature, away from light, for two hours. Then, the absorbance was measured at a wavelength of 765 nm using a UV-Vis spectrophotometer. The calibration curve was linear for the concentration range of 0.1-0.5 mg/mL for gallic acid. The content of the total polyphenols in the extracts is expressed as mg equivalent of gallic acid (GAE)/g dry weight extract (DW) [35].
2.3.2. Determination of Total Flavonoids
Determination of total flavonoids was performed by the colourimetric method [35]. On this line, 1 mL of sample was taken and mixed with 4 mL of distilled water and placed in a 10 mL volumetric flask. Then, 3 mL of 5% NaNO2 solution was added, and after 5 minutes, 0.3 mL of 10% AlCl3 solution was added. After a further 6 minutes, 2 mL of 1 M NaOH was added. The flask was quenched to the mark with distilled water, and the absorbance was read at 510 nm. The calibration curve was used using the quercetin standard. The equation of the calibration curve is (), where represents the absorbance and represents mg quercetin.
2.4. Evaluation of the Antioxidant Activity of the Mixture of Extracts
A number of analytical methods have been developed to determine the antioxidant activity of natural products that are generally based on the reaction between an antioxidant species and a chromogenic compound. The antioxidant capacity of the extracts was evaluated by the following methods: DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl), ABTS (2,2-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid), and ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP).
2.4.1. DPPH Method
The DPPH method is a spectrophotometric method widely used to test the ability of compounds to remove free radicals or their ability to donate hydrogen. The activity of capturing 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl radicals (DPPH) was determined using the method proposed by Pallag et al. [41]. Thus, at a volume of 100 mL of plant extract, 2900 mL of DPPH methanolic solution (80 mM) was added. The absorbance of the resulting solution was read at 515 nm after 5 minutes. The following equation was used to determine the DPPH inhibitory capacity (%): where is absorption blank and is sample absorbance at 515 nm.
2.4.2. ABTS Method
The ABTS method has been widely used to evaluate antioxidant activity and uses the method of Arnao et al. [42]. Briefly, ABTS⁺ was produced by reacting the ABTS solution (7 mM) with 2.45 mM potassium persulphate, keeping the mixture in the dark at room temperature for 16 hours. The stock solution of ABTS was diluted to obtain an absorbance of at 734 nm. After the addition of 25 μL extract in 2.5 mL of diluted ABTS⁺, the mixture was homogenized very well (using Vortex) for 30 seconds and the interaction between antioxidants and ABTS•+ was determined spectrophotometrically at 734 nm, exactly 1 minute after homogenization. Trolox was used and a standard linear curve was obtained between 0.125 and 2 mmol/L Trolox. The ABTS value was obtained using the calibration curve equation: (), where is absorbance and is mmol Trolox equivalents.
2.4.3. Ferric-Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP) Method
The ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) method is a simple spectrophotometric method that tests the antioxidant potency of the samples taken in the study and is based on the reduction of the ferric tripyridyl-triazine complex to the ferrous tripyridyl triazine complex (Fe (III)-TPTZ) by a pH-reducing agent [40]. Stock solutions include 300 mM acetate buffer; 270 mg of FeCl3·6H2O dissolved in 50 mL of distilled water; 150 mg of TPTZ; and 150 mL of HCl, dissolved in 50 mL of distilled water. The FRAP solution obtained was freshly prepared by mixing 50 mL of acetate buffer solution, 5 mL of FeCl3·6H2O solution, and 5 mL of TPTZ solution. The vegetable extracts (100 mL) were allowed to react with 500 mL of FRAP solution and 2 mL of distilled water for 1 hour, away from light. The final coloured product (ferric tripyridyl-triazine complex) was quantitated by absorption into the VIS at 595 nm. Trolox was used as the antioxidant positive control, and a standard linear curve of between 50 and 500 mmol/L of Trolox was obtained. The FRAP value was obtained using the equation based on the following calibration curve: (), where is absorbance and is mmol of Trolox equivalents.
2.5. Antimicrobial Activity
In vitro testing of the antimicrobial activity of the mixture of two plant extracts on bacteria was done by the diffusion method of Kirby-Bauer [43]. We used two reference strains from the American Type Culture Collection (ATCC), namely, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 25923 and Streptococcus pneumoniae ATCC 49619 and two wild strains, namely, Streptococcus pyogenes and Streptococcus agalactiae—isolated from human clinical cases. Culture media (Mueller-Hinton (Oxoid) for Staphylococci and Mueller-Hinton Agar sheep blood (BioMérieux) for Streptococci) were inoculated with standardized bacterial inoculum (0.5 McFarland units). After 10-15 minutes, 6 sterile filter papers (HiMedia Laboratories, Ref. SD067-5CT) 6 mm in diameter were placed on each Petri plate and 20 microliters of plant extract were impregnated into each disk. For each extract, the samples were worked in triplicate to minimize errors. We utilized standard penicillin disks (10 U, Oxoid) as a positive control, and paper disks smeared with distilled water (20 μL) as a negative control. After incubating the media at 37°C for 18 hours, the diameters of the inhibition zones were measured with a ruler and the arithmetic mean for each extract was calculated.
2.6. Cell Cultures
The assays were performed on normal human dermal fibroblast BJ (ATCC, Gaithersburg, Maryland USA). Cell culture medium was DMEM (Dulbecco’s modified Eagle’s medium), supplemented with 5% FBS (foetal bovine serum), antibiotics, and antimycotics; all reagents were purchased from Sigma-Aldrich Chemicals GmbH (Heidelberg, Germany).
2.6.1. Viability Assay
Cell survival was assessed through the colourimetric measurement of formazan, a coloured compound synthesized by viable cells, using the CellTiter 96® AQueous Nonradioactive Cell Proliferation Assay (Promega Corporation, Madison, USA). The dermal fibroblast BJ cultures were cultivated at a density of 10⁴/wells in 96-well plaques (TPP, Trasadingen, Switzerland) for 24 h, then exposed to the plant extracts in five different formulations, according to the following ratios between Tropaeolum majus (T) and Salvia officinalis extracts (S), respectively: (1) 1 : 1, (2) 1 : 2, (3) 2 : 1, (4) 3 : 1, and (5) 1 : 3. Concentrations ranging between 0 and -500 μg GAE/mL of polyphenols were prepared from each extract in medium immediately before use. The LPS impact on viability was also tested, similarly to the extracts by exposing BJ cells to different LPS concentrations, between 0 and 10 μg/mL. Cells were either exposed only to the extracts for 24 h, or, following the extracts’ exposure, cells were washed and further exposed to LPS (lipopolysaccharides from Escherichia coli) in a concentration of 10 μg/mL for an additional 24 h, then viability was measured colourimetrically, using an ELISA plate reader (Tecan, Männedorf, Switzerland) at 540 nm. The dose of 10 μg/mL for LPS was chosen based on the doses used in the literature including ex vivo models [44]. All the experiments were done in triplicate. Untreated cell cultures were used as controls. Results are presented as OD540.
2.6.2. Cell Lysates
The BJ cells, seeded on Petri dishes at a density of 10⁴/cm², were exposed for 24 h to T : S 1 : 2 extract in concentration of 0.1 μg polyphenols/mL () and 0.01 μg polyphenols/mL () respectively, and then to LPS 10 μg/mL for an additional 24 h, or only extract or LPS. Untreated cells were used as controls. Cells were washed following exposure, and afterwards, lysates were prepared as previously described [45]. Protein concentrations were determined by the Bradford method according to the manufacturer’s specifications (Bio-Rad, Hercules, CA, USA), using albumin bovine serum as standard. For all assays, the lysates were corrected by total protein concentration.
2.6.3. Inflammation Marker Assessment
Inflammation was assessed by the measurement of IL-31, IL-33, IL-6, TNF-α, and STAT3 levels using ELISA immunoassay kits from R&D Systems Inc. (Minneapolis, MN, USA). In addition, the expressions of transcription factor NFκB and its phosphorylated form (pNFκB) were evaluated by western blot analysis. For western blot, a 20 μg protein/lane was separated by electrophoresis on SDS-PAGE gels and then transferred to polyvinylidene difluoride membranes (Bio-Rad Mini-PROTEAN System from Bio-Rad) as previously described [46]. Blots were blocked and then incubated with antibodies against NFκB, pNFκB p65 (Ser536) (93H1), and GAPDH and then further washed and incubated with corresponding secondary peroxidase-linked antibodies (Santa Cruz Biotechnology Inc.). The proteins were detected using the SuperSignal West Femto chemiluminescent substrate (Thermo Fisher Scientific, Rockford, IL, USA) and were then quantified using Quantity One Analysis Software (Bio-Rad).
2.7. Statistical Analysis
The statistical significance of the results was conducted by using one-way ANOVA, followed by Tukey’s multiple tests. All reported data were expressed as the mean of (SD), and a value lower than 0.05 was considered statistically significant.
3. Results
3.1. Physicochemical Properties of the Mixture of Extracts
The polyphenols from the mixture of extracts were identified by comparing the data from the chromatogram of the extract with a chromatogram of a standard solution. Compound detection was performed at several wavelengths: 235, 255, 259, 260, 270, 274, 280, 285, 310, 320, and 345 nm. The standard solution was prepared by mixing 1 mL of the stock standard solutions of synapic acid, myricetin, vanillic acid, quercetin, gallic acid, syringic acid, epicatechin, naringenin, p-coumaric acid, caffeic acid, and luteolin, and we injected in triplicate (Table 1).
Bioactive compounds
Plant extract (mg/kg)
Epicatechin
280
Luteolin
345
Naringenin
285
Quercetin
260
Myricetin
255
Synapic acid
235
P-coumaric acid
310
Caffeic acid
320
Galic acid
270
Vanillic acid
259
Syringic acid
274
Results are expressed as .
... acial skin health is an important part to get more attention 1 as it is an important aspect of aesthetics 2 . Natural ingredients have been used traditionally for dermatologic disorder which over the last 20 years, clinical and laboratory studies have identified the benefit of natural ingredient for skin care 3 . Facial masks are common products utilized for skin rejuvenation. ...
Artocarpus heterophyllus (Ah), common name as nangka, has been reported to have antidiabetic, antihyperlipidemia, antimicrobial and antioxidant activity. Balinese women used its leaves for facial treatment. This study aims to evaluate its leaf potency for facial skin care. Ethanol extract of Ah (EEAh) that obtained by maceration was prepared into 3 clay mask formulations (FI: 1%, FII:3% and FIII:5%). F0 was used as control group. A total of 12 volunteers were treated with clay mask to evaluate its effect on moisture and pores size after intervention. The data were analysed using Kruskall Wallis and Mann Whitney test. The results showed that skin moisture increased after intervention (FI:3.7%; FII:4.7%;FIII:7.3%). Pores size decreased in FI (6.3%) and FII (13.4%). Statistically, there were significant different between F0-F1 (p=0.043), F0-F2 and F0-F3 (p=0.046 of each). The present study conclude that clay mask containing A. heterophyllus leaf ethanol extract have potency to be used as facial skin care.
... Nowadays, bioactive ingredients with different mechanisms are added to the cosmetics to endow them with additional oil-control, anti-aging, brightening, or anti-allergic properties, including exfoliants, natural and herbal ingredients, different kinds of vitamins, proteins, minerals, and other materials [32]. Some of the bioactive ingredients, such as green tea, could display anti-inflammatory or antioxidant activity, thus were considered beneficial for inflammatory skin disorders, including rosacea [33]. But the combination of different categories of ingredients would increase the possibility of skin sensitization and aggravate skin barrier destruction. ...
Background
Certain cosmetic habits may trigger or aggravate rosacea, while there is little published epidemiologic evidence to support this point.
Purpose
To examine if daily skin care habits have an effect on the development of rosacea in Chinese population.
Methods
A multi-center retrospective case-control survey of 1,245 rosacea cases and 1,538 skin-healthy controls was conducted in China. Participants completed the questionnaire comprised of demographic characteristics, socioeconomic data and daily skin care habits. Data were collected retrospectively and analyzed using the chi-square test and t-test. Multivariate logistic regression analyses were used to predict rosacea.
Results
The multivariate logistic regression analysis highlighted some results: Dry, oily or mixed skin (OR = 6.3–6.9, P< .001), the usage of foaming cleanser (OR = 1.45, 95%CI 1.115–1.886, P = .01), make up more than 6 times a week (OR = 2.839, 95%CI 1.962–4.108, P< .001), using facial mask more than 4 times a week (OR = 2.56–3.069, P< .001), facial treatments at beauty salon more than once a week (OR = 4.946, 95%CI 2.005–12.198, P = .0018) and using beauty salon products (OR = 2.334, 95%CI 1.435–3.976, P = .0018) are positively correlated with the development of rosacea. Using of moisturizing products (OR = 0.602, 95%CI 0.386–0.983, P = .035) and sunscreen cream (OR = 0.303–0.507, P< .001 or P = .0167 for different frequency) presented significantly negative correlations with rosacea. Frequency of cleansing showed a nonlinear association with rosacea: using facial cleansers 1~3 times per week (OR = 0.647, 95%CI 0.429–0.975, P = .038) showed beneficial effects while using facial cleanser excessively (twice or more daily) (OR = 2.131, 95%CI 1.394–3.256, P< .001) positively correlated to rosacea strongly.
Conclusions
Excessive use of facial cleanser (twice or more a day) and facial mask (more than 4 times a week), frequent makeup (more than 6 times a week), regular skin care in beauty salon (more than once a week), and using beauty salon products were closely correlated to the development of rosacea in Chinese population.
... 9 Oatmeal possesses potent antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties that its clinical benefits in the treatment of a variety of inflammatory dermatologic disorders such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and dry skin have been shown in the previous studies. [10][11][12] The active ingredients in oatmeal consist of polysaccharides, proteins, lipids, saponins, enzymes, flavonoids, vitamins, and avenanthramides. Avenanthramides are phenolic compounds present in oats that mediate its anti-inflammatory activity. ...
Background:
Irritant contact dermatitis (ICD) is the most frequent cause of hand eczema (HE). There is promising evidence with the use of topical oatmeal compounds in the management of inflammation- and itch-responses associated with diverse dermatologic conditions. This study aimed to evaluate the clinical benefit of colloidal oatmeal cream in the management of chronic irritant HE.
Methods:
From October 2018 to November 2019, 79 patients with diagnosis of chronic irritant HE were allocated into either intervention or control groups by block randomization method. Besides fluocinolone 0.025% ointment for the first 2 weeks of treatment period, patients in the intervention and control groups were asked to use colloidal oatmeal 1% cream or base cream for additional 4 weeks as monotherapy. Changes in the HE severity based on the hand eczema severity index (HESCI) score, pruritus severity based on the visual analogue scale (VAS), and impact of skin disorder on patients quality of life based on the Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) from baseline to weeks 2, 4, and 6 were assessed in the study groups.
Results:
Fifty subjects, 26 in intervention and 24 in control, completed the course of the study. The results indicated, though relatively comparable decrease in mean HESI and VAS scores was observed in both groups by the end of week 2, thereafter until end of the study a non-return of symptoms to baseline conditions was observed in the intervention group, while there was a significant return of symptoms to baseline conditions in the control group (p value<0.001 in both conditions). Further, a noticeable improvement in the DLQI score was seen in the intervention group compared with the control group (p value<0.001).
Conclusion:
Findings demonstrate that colloidal oatmeal, a natural product with proven barrier protection, moisturization, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties, can have ameliorative effects on eczema severity symptoms in patients with chronic irritant HE.
... Zelesse V R has been marketed in Europe since 2013, according to healthcare products regulations. The herbal components (burdock, chamomile, and aloe vera) of Zelesse V R are natural ingredients known for their anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, and anti-oxidant properties and are widely used in dermatological disorders [9][10][11][12][13][14][15] given their soothing, antipruritic, and antiseptic properties. Therefore, this solution may exert favorable effects in the management of vulvovaginitis, although, to date, there is no clinical evidence reported in this regard. ...
Objective:
To evaluate the acceptability, tolerability, and effects on vulvovaginitis symptoms and signs of a non-soap, herbal-based intimate solution (Zelesse®).
Methods:
We conducted a prospective, observational, multicenter study including adult women with symptoms and signs of vulvovaginitis with various etiologies, including candidiasis, trichomoniasis, bacterial vaginosis, and atrophic and irritative vaginitis. The presence and intensity of signs (edema, erythema, vaginal discharge) and symptoms (pruritus) of vulvovaginitis were evaluated before and after 5-15 days of daily use of Zelesse® alone or as a coadjuvant in antimicrobial therapy. Variables following a normal distribution and categorical variables were analyzed using the Student t-test and chi-square or Fisher's exact test, respectively.
Results:
A total 137 women were enrolled in the study; 87 (63.5%) women received concomitant antimicrobials and 50 (36.5%) used Zelesse® only. Global symptom scores and frequency of patients with vulvovaginitis signs and symptoms, and their mean intensity, decreased after treatment in both patient groups. Vaginal pH and (in the Zelesse®-only group) vaginal flora remained unaltered. The product was safe, well tolerated, and highly accepted by patients.
Conclusions:
Zelesse®, the non-soap herbal-based solution in this study, may represent a safe and effective option for symptomatic relief of vulvovaginitis.
... Several studies with Camellia sinensis suggest that topical application may be potentially effective for atopic dermatitis, acne vulgaris, rosacea, androgenetic alopecia, hirsutism, keloids, genital warts, cutaneous leishmaniasis and candidiasis. [16][17][18][19][20][21][22][23][24][25] C. sinensis is a perenne middle bush of Theaceae family, know traditionally with the name of "green tea. " The leaves contain several polyphenols with anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and antioxidant properties. ...
... Several fruits, vegetables, and whole grains contain the antioxidant polyphenol, which scavenges free radicals and eliminates byproducts of metabolism [1]. Antioxidant compounds are widely used for this purpose due to their ability to restore skin and prevent signs of aging by reducing fine lines and wrinkles [20]. ...
Cosmetics, personal care and biomedical products obtained by bio-based polymers and natural bioactive compounds are a new growing market. The ecological awareness is changing consumers' demands, causing consumers to look for more sustainable options, with a reduced environmental impact. The innovation of this work was to develop a natural polymer matrix (chitosan) entrapping antioxidant actives compounds such as annatto (Bixa Orellana L.) and vitamin C with potential application as sustainable anti-aging skin mask treatment. Films of chitosan (Ch) and reacetylated chitosan (RCh), exhibiting different degrees of acetylation (DA = 13.3 and 33.9%, respectively), were produced. The formulations of active films of chitosan (BCh) and reacetylated chitosan (BRCh) were 1% (w/w) of chitosan, 1% (w/w) of annatto powder, 5% (w/w) of vitamin C and 1% (w/w) of glycerol (as plasticizer). Reacetylated chitosan films (DA = 33.9%) presented higher water affinity than chitosan films (DA = 13.3%). The elongation of RCh and BRCh increased and the resistance decreased, as compared to Ch and BCh. The antioxidants compounds (annatto and vitamin C) of BRCh films released faster than BCh films. Thus, the BRCh films showed potential application as an anti-aging skin mask.
... Acai berry plant belongs to family Arecaceae [18]. The fruit is processed into pulp for supply to food product manufacturers or retailers, sold as frozen pulp, juice, or an ingredient in various products from beverages, including grain alcohol, smoothies, foods, cosmetics and supplements [19]. ...
... [135] PSORIASIS A. vera leaf extract using is used in the topical management of psoriasis. [27,136] It contains bioactive natural ingredients which show better skin care. [137] A. vera plant extract is highly beneficial for skin and skin disorders. ...
The present review explains therapeutic and pharmaceutical potential of Aloe vera a well-known plant grows in semi-arid climate of tropical and subtropical regions. This article emphasizes important uses of A. vera constituents as dietary nutraceutical, medicinal, and therapeutic potential. Plant is cultivated for agricultural and medicinal and decoration purposes for indoors as a potted plant. Plant is a good depository of chemical constituents which display a very wide array of biological activities such as anticancer, antiparasitic, antidiabetic, anti-inflammatory, anti-arthritic, antiparasitic, antitumor, antioxidant, chemopreventive, hepatoprotective, and gastroprotective. Plant is used to prepare skin protective/care gels mainly for soothing, moisturizing, and wound healing. Thick watery plant sap works are added as key ingredient in many beauty products. Plant leaves are used to generate aroma, beverages, skin lotion, cosmetics, or ointments for minor burns. Plant contains vitamins, enzymes, minerals, sugars, lignin, saponins, salicylic acids, and amino acids as main ingredients. Plant is a good source of Vitamins A, C, and E, which are antioxidants. It also contains Vitamin B12, folic acid, and choline watery juicy of A. vera leaf which contains important minerals such as calcium, chromium, copper, selenium, magnesium, manganese, and potassium. Plant ingredients were found active against gingivitis, psoriasis, and used for herbal therapy in inflammatory bowel disease. A. vera contains important fatty acids mainly steroids such as cholesterol, campesterol, β-sitosterol, and lupeol. Aloin and emodin act as analgesics, antibacterials, and antivirals while lupeol shows antiseptic and analgesic properties. It also contains auxins and gibberellin hormones that help in wound healing and have anti-inflammatory action. Saponins that are the soapy substances display cleansing and antiseptic properties.
Background: Self‑care applications are effective in the control and treatment of disease symptoms. Today, the mobile phone is used as one
of the tools that can help us in this regard. The present study attempts to develop and evaluate a functional self‑care mobile‑phone application
for patients with skin and hair problems using treatment protocols of herbal medicine.
Materials and Methods: This study is a descriptive‑applied type. At first, a questionnaire was prepared for data need assessment and also
to determine the data items and required capabilities of the application. Based on the results, an application was designed using the Java
programing language in the Android software environment. In the next step, the application was installed on the mobile phones of several
specialists and patients, and the necessary corrections were made. Then, the final version of the application was evaluated.
Results: The most critical data elements of the mobile application for skin and hair patients included the application’s functionality, temperament
survey, and clinical information. After considering users’ feedback, the screen functionality, the application’s information and idiom, and
overall functionality of the application were evaluated and approved by the users.
Conclusion: By and large, the developed application could help the patients to receive the best and high‑priority treatment protocols based
on their own temperament.
Background
Phytochemicals utilization in the cosmetics are the current trend in the beauty and fashion. Most women prefer the cosmetics derived from natural products over synthetic chemicals, as the natural products are devoid of undesirable side effects. Skin protection has become not only aesthetic, but also linked to health. Therefore, exploring the use of phytochemicals in cosmetic dermatology is essential.
Objective
In the current in vitro studies, we investigated the skin-protection properties of capsanthin 50%w/w crystals (CAP-50CR) and capsanthin 1.5% w/w soft extract (CAP-1.5SE) obtained from red bell pepper fruits, out of which one is an industrial by-product on sunburn, melanin inhibition, tyrosinase inhibition, anti-fungal activity and, gene expression of Aquaporin 3 (AQP-3) in the human keratinocyte cell line.
Methodology
The two extracts, obtained by solvent extraction, super critical extract purification, saponification, characterized, and examined on their dermatological activities.
Results
Capsanthin 50%w/w crystals (CAP-50CR) showed a sun protection factor (SPF) value of 34.44 whereas capsanthin 1.5% w/w soft extract (CAP-1.5SE) showed a value of 20.63. Minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) of CAP-50CR against Malassezia furfur was 0.625 mg/mL and CAP-1.5SE showed a MIC of 5mg/mL. Both CAP-50CR and CAP-1.5SE showed the same MIC against Candida albicans which is 2.5 mg/mL. In the MTT assay on mouse skin melanoma cells (B16F10), the test substance CAP-50CR showed a CTC50 value of 98.44±2.55 µg/mL whereas the test substance CAP-1.5SE exhibited a CTC50 value greater than 1000 µg/mL. Further, the non-toxic concentrations of the test items were evaluated for forskolin-induced melanin inhibition activity. For CAP-50CR, the non-toxic concentration of 7 and 3 µg/mL showed the melanin inhibition of 48.73±0.75% and 42.29±5.2% and for CAP-1.5SE the melanin inhibition was found to be 55.84%±1.47 and 46.44%±1.05 for the non-toxic concentration of 50 and 25µg/mL. The CAP-50CR extract showed 43.78% and 39.37% tyrosinase inhibition at the tested concentrations of 7 and 3 µg/mL. Similarly, CAP-1.5SE showed the tyrosinase inhibitions as 34.6% and 22.9% for the concentrations of 50 and 25 µg/mL. The test substances CAP-50CR and CAP-1.5SE exhibited a CTC50 value of 76.59±3.25 μg/mL and 664.95±2.88 µg/mL on the HaCaT cells. In the gene expression study, both the test substances showed an increase in the levels of AQP-3 mRNAs at lower and higher concentrations as compared to the control in the semi-quantitative RT-PCR procedure.
Conclusion
CAP-50CR and CAP-1.5SE showed skin protection from UV radiation and hyperpigmentation. Also exhibits anti-fungal, skin brightening, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing properties. These results suggests that capsanthin from red bell pepper fruit can be employed as cosmetic active ingredient in skin guard formulations and as a potential therapeutic agent for variety of dermatological disorders. This study breaks new ground by investigating the potential of capsanthin in the management of skin protection for the first time.
La famille des protéines kinases est impliquée dans plusieurs processus de contrôle des cellules, comme la division ou la signalisation cellulaire. Elle est souvent associée à des pathologies graves, dont le cancer, et représente ainsi une famille de cibles thérapeutiques importantes en chimie médicinale. A l’heure actuelle, il est difficile de concevoir des inhibiteurs de protéines kinases novateurs, notamment par manque de sélectivité du fait de la grande similarité existant entre les sites actifs de ces protéines. Une méthode expérimentale ayant fait ses preuves et aujourd’hui largement utilisée dans la conception de composés innovants est l’approche par fragments. Nous avons donc développé notre propre logiciel, Frags2Drugs, qui utilise cette approche pour construire des molécules bioactives. Frags2Drugs repose sur les données expérimentales disponibles publiquement, plus particulièrement sur les structures des ligands co-cristallisés avec des protéines kinases. Nous avons tout d’abord élaboré une méthode de fragmentation de ces ligands afin d’obtenir une librairie de plusieurs milliers de fragments tridimensionnels. Cette librairie est alors stockée sous la forme d'un graphe où chaque fragment est modélisé par un nœud et chaque relation entre deux fragments, représentant une liaison chimique possible entre eux, par une arête. Nous avons ensuite développé un algorithme permettant de calculer toutes les combinaisons possibles de tous les fragments disponibles, et ce directement dans le site actif de la cible. Notre programme Frags2Drugs peut créer rapidement des milliers de molécules à partir d’un fragment initial défini par l’utilisateur. De plus, de nombreuses méthodes ont été implémentées pour filtrer les résultats afin de ne conserver que les composés les plus prometteurs. Le logiciel a été validé sur trois protéines kinases impliquées dans différents cancers. Les molécules proposées ont ensuite été synthétisées et ont montré d’excellentes activités in vitro.
The Brazilian Cerrado is considered one of the most biodiverse savanna biomes in the world, has an area of approximately 2,039,386 m² and is the second largest vegetation in Brazil with coverage of approximately 25% of the territory. The fruits and almonds of the Brazilian Cerrado have high nutritional value and sensorial attributes that suggest great technological potential for the development of products in the food industry. In addition, native foods also have great economic and social importance for regional extractivism. Therefore, this chapter aims to present the main relevant aspects of Dipteryx alata Vog. (baru) about their botanical and ecological aspects, their chemical composition and their potential technological applications.
Cosmeceutical agents from natural origin which are non-invasive, high efficacious, and cost effective are demanding nowadays. This study aimed to explore the anti-melanogenesis, radical scavenging, and UV protective activities of fifteen ethanolic extracts from the leaf, peel, and stem bark of five Malayan Artocarpus species, namely A. altilis, A. heterophyllus, A. integer, A. elasticus, and A. rigidus for their application in skin lightening cosmeceutical. In our study, A. heterophyllus stem bark and peel extracts showed potent anti-melanogenesis activity in reducing melanin content to 23.62 ± 0.69% and 24.10 ± 3.96% at 50 μg/mL, respectively, and the effects were four folds better than kojic acid. The extracts also potently inhibited the cellular tyrosinase activity with 1.42 and 1.85 folds stronger than kojic acid at 50 μg/mL. Whilst, A. elasticus peel extract exhibited a remarkable radical scavenging activity on DPPH, ABTS cation, and superoxide anion. Altogether, our results suggest that A. heterophyllus stem bark and peel extracts possessed promising anti-melanogenesis potential for the skin lightening cosmeceuticals application while A. elasticus peel extract may be considered as a potent antioxidant to be used in cosmeceutical products.
Artocarpus heterophyllus (Ah) is a plant that grows in many parts of Indonesia. Its leaves are widely used for traditional uses, one of which is for facial skin care. The present study was conducted to evaluate the effect of its extract on facial skin smoothness. Ethanol extract of Ah (EEA) was prepared as clay mask formulation (FI: 1, F2: 3 and F3:5%) and then was applied on volunteer face. Skin smoothness improvement was measured using a skin analyzer. Standardization of simplicia and phytochemical screening of EEA were done before the test. Data were analyzed using Kruskall Wallis and Mann Whitney. Standardization yielded as follows: total water-: 5.33%, total water-soluble 15.67%, total ethanol-soluble 13.61% and total ash 10.29%. Smoothness value showed as normal skin with improvement to smooth level on EEA-treated group: FI: 9.4%; F2: 5.6%; F3:10.0%. The highest improvement percentage of skin was found in F3. Statistically, there was significantly different (p=0.046) between F0-F3. The study concludes that F3 is able to improve facial skin smoothness.
Abstract Natural ingredients have been used to improve the state of health in humans. The genus Paeonia has been studied only limited yet it’s reported to have many activities such as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. To this context, here we focused on an endemic Paeonia species in Attica. This study aims to present the development of the Paeonia mascula subsp. hellenica callus extract and its pleiotropic bioactivity on human primary keratinocytes exploring its potential application as an active agent in skin-related products. This extract showed a high scavenging activity with high phenolic content and an interesting metabolic profile. At a molecular level, the study on the transcript accumulation of genes revealed that this extract exhibits in vitro skin-related protection properties by mediating mitochondrial energy, cell proliferation, immune and inflammatory response and positively regulates genes involved in epidermal and in stratum corneum function. Besides, the extract is proven not skin irritant on reconstructed human skin model. These findings indicate that the specific P. mascula subsp. hellenica extract possesses significant in vitro protection activity on human epidermis and provides new insights into its beneficial role in skin confirming that the advent of biotechnology contribution the past few decades.
No sétimo ensaio demonstra-se o caráter multidisciplinar desta obra ao tratar sobre “O Papel do Centro de Incubação de Atividades Empreendedoras como Indutor da Inovação na Universidade Federal de Uberlândia – Case do I Desafio de Inovação”, dos autores Manuela de Oliveira Botrel, Rita de Cássia Ferreira Meirelles, Larissa Sarmento Macêdo, Isabella Mendonça Nogueira e Guilherme de Augusto Vilela, que fazem um estudo de caso a partir da experiência do Centro de Incubação de Atividades Empreendedoras (CIAEM) da UFU, e de sua importância na promoção da inovação na Universidade. Os autores deste ensaio, com grande experiência na gestão do CIAEM, fazem da motivação para descrever em relação de um case do “I Desafio de inovação da UFU”, um relato abrangente sobre as incubadoras de empresas de base tecnológica e as implicações desses habitats de inovação nas IFES. Com o “I Desafio de Inovação da UFU”, o leitor poderá encontrar aspectos importantes do “estreitamento da relação universidade-poder público-empresa”, da promoção da divulgação da cultura do empreendedorismo e inovação para a Comunidade Universitária. Ao propor aos universitários que apresentem soluções tecnológicas inovadoras de problemas cotidianos, o ensaio revela a abrangência desta iniciativa.
Natural ingredients have been used for skin care since centuries. Nowadays, they are becoming increasingly popular in specific products due to consumers' concerns about the toxic action of chemical compounds. As a result, there has been a high demand for the use of natural ingredients in cosmetics. The main benefits of the use of herbal extracts in skin care include the antioxidant and antimicrobial activities or the inhibitory effect of tyrosinase contained in the extract. Phenolic compounds are the main group of natural antioxidant compounds that are sought-after in the market and which express antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, or anti-aging actions as well as can penetrate the skin barrier. The purpose of the present study was to present a comprehensive review of the main factors acting on the skin, a detailed description of the scientific benefits of topical antioxidants, to understand the method of formulation and administration of topical antioxidants as well as to identify new mechanisms/methods for the study of antioxidant protection.
Tea Tree oil (TTO) contains beneficial properties such as antibacterial, antimicrobial, antiviral and anti-fungal. Whereas, the medium chain fatty acids in Virgin Coconut oil (VCO) able to protect hair follicles from heat, restoring hair’s moisture and other damage. This paper describes the physical properties of seven hair shampoo formulations containing differing amount of TTO and VCO. The essential oils (TTO) applied in these formulations were extracted from fresh tea trees using steam distillation method and the VCO was produced from fermentation of fresh mature kernel coconut. Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis was conducted to determine the essential oil components of TTO and fatty acid composition of VCO. The shampoo formulations were subjected to evaluation of several parameters namely organoleptic, pH, viscosity, total solid content, foam stability, and dirt dispersion. The results show that the TTO was composed of terpene hydrocarbons with terpinene-4-ol as the major component; meanwhile lauric acid is major component of VCO. All the shampoo formulations were acid-balanced with pH range between 6.23 – 6.43; total solid contents were between 29.92 – 35.61%; stable foaming with the same foam volume for 4 minutes and no dirt was observed. Rheological test showed formulation with 6% TTO (0% VCO) has pseudo-plastic behavior and relatively lower total solid content which are desirable attributes in hair shampoo. Overall, TTO- and VCO-containing shampoo formulations showed ideal physicochemical properties for hair cleansing and treatments.
Background
A large number of cosmetic formulations have been developed based on herbs. Indian women have been using herbs such as sandalwood, aloe for skincare protection, since ages. In India, the rich cultural heritage is behind the materials used in cosmetics from the earliest period of medical and cosmetic art.
Objective
Continuous application of synthetic compounds on the skin causes many adverse effects such as skin irritation, allergy, discoloration, rashes along with skin cancer. The aim of this review article is to explore herbs for different skincare needs.
Materials and Methods
A literature search was done on various herbs used for skin nourishment, cleansing, sun-screens, bleach, anti-ageing, moisturization and other skin requirements.
Results
There are various herbs present in nature. They improve and clarify skin gently in an utmost manner.
Conclusion
These herbs are full of phytoconstituents, having natural goodness to fulfill the different demands of skin.
Ginsenosides are compounds responsible for the primary pharmacological effects of American ginseng. Compound‐Y (C‐Y) is a minor ginsenoside and a metabolite of Panax ginseng. In this study, we investigated the protective effect of ginsenoside UVB‐irradiated NHDFs and its potential for use as an anti‐hyperpigmentation agent through ginsenoside C‐Y as a functional food and cosmetic ingredient. Ginsenoside C‐Y is a natural antioxidant isolated from the American ginseng PDD‐ginsenoside. Our data showed that ginsenoside C‐Y block UVB‐exposed ROS, restrict MMP‐1 production, and promote procollagen type I synthesis. Interestingly, ginsenoside C‐Y suppresses UVB‐exposed VEGF, and TNF‐α secretion, could be related with NFAT signal path. Ginsenoside C‐Y has exhibited photoaging effects by increasing TGF‐β1 level, fortifying Nrf2 nuclear translocation, and restricting AP‐1 and MAPK phosphorylation. Assessment of the melanogenic response indicated that ginsenoside C‐Y inhibited melanin secretion and tyrosinase activity and decreased melanin content in melan‐a and zebrafish embryos. These results suggest that ginsenoside C‐Y can be used as a potential botanical agent to protect premature skin from UVB‐induced photodamage and prevent skin hyperpigmentation.
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products intended to improve physical appearance, health, beauty and skin ailments. Drugs used to control acne, anti-wrinkle effects, protect from sun burn, improves complexation, delayed effect of ageing and improve skin textures, etc. are comes under category of cosmeceuticals. Cosmeceuticals may be synthetic, natural or hybrid depending upon their compositions. Herbal cosmeceuticals are gaining great attention now a day’s due to their wide range of availability and fewer side effects. There are enormous plants and natural ingredients available commercially as cosmeceuticals. Herbal cosmetics originated naturally from plants, sea, rock salt and soil, etc. Generally herbal cosmetics are free from harmful synthetic chemicals and considered safe to use. Many medicinal plants and herbs offers effect like cosmeceuticals and used extensively for same purpose globally. Natural herbs such as; Neem, Kapoor, Henna, Hirda, Behada, Amalaki, Bringaraj, Rosary Pea and Mandor, etc. are used in cosmetic industry for various purpose. This article presented a descriptive review on Herbal cosmeceuticals.
Ayurveda, which literally translates to “knowledge of life,” defines disease as the end result of “living out of harmony” with one's constitution. An imbalance in the dhatus could cause skin disease. An imbalance in these dhatus could cause skin disease. Ayurveda classifies three types of psychological states: the Tamo guna (inertia), Rajoguna (activity), and Satvaguna (balanced peaceful state) that can affect the doshas and agni and cause disease (psychosomatic phenomenon). Ayurveda describes the concept of beauty by prakriti (body constitution), sara(structural predominance), sanhanan (compactness of body), twak (skin complexion), praman (measurement), and dirghayu lakshyana (symptom of long life). Shikakai maintains the PH balance of the skin and hair. Dashamula, and gugguli (C. mukul) mixture in an oily‐based ointment are prescribed for dry, rough skin. Sandalwood, turmeric, and camphor extracts reduce inflammatory conditions. Nutmeg and mustard oil increase circulation.
ABSTRACT
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products intended to improve physical appearance, health, beauty and skin ailments. Drugs used to control acne, anti-wrinkle effects, protect from sun burn, improves complexation, delayed effect of ageing and improve skin textures, etc. are comes under category of cosmeceuticals. Cosmeceuticals may be synthetic, natural or hybrid depending upon their compositions. Herbal cosmeceuticals are gaining great attention now a day’s due to their wide range of availability and fewer side effects. There are enormous plants and natural ingredients available commercially as cosmeceuticals. Herbal cosmetics originated naturally from plants, sea, rock salt and soil, etc. Generally herbal cosmetics are free from harmful synthetic chemicals and considered safe to use. Many medicinal plants and herbs offers effect like cosmeceuticals and used extensively for same purpose globally. Natural herbs such as; Neem, Kapoor, Henna, Hirda, Behada, Amalaki, Bringaraj, Rosary Pea and Mandor, etc. are used in cosmetic industry for various purpose. This article presented a descriptive review on Herbal cosmeceuticals.
KEYWORDS: Ayurveda, Cosmeceuticals, Natural Herbs, Plants, Beauty
Drug delivery through the skin barrier is a topic of high interest in cosmetology and dermatology. The disruption of the skin barrier is a common method to stimulate skin penetration. In the present chapter tissue tolerable plasma is used to damage the skin barrier, enabling topically applied substances to effectively pass the stratum corneum. Subsequently to plasma-tissue interaction the skin barrier recovers immediately. Topically applied drugs have to be applied before the plasma treatment onto the skin. In this case, the plasma chemical reaction of the drug has to be prevented by using plasma resistant nanocontainers.
Aqueous two-phase system (ATPS) was used for simultaneous purification of glycyrrhizic acid (GA) and liquiritin (LQ) from crude extract of Chinese licorice root. It was revealed that 87% GA and 94% LQ were retrieved in the ATPS top phase, under the optimum conditions of 25% (w/w) ethanol, 30% (w/w) K2HPO4 and 4% (w/w) loading sample at 10–40°C. Compared with crude extract, the ATPS top-phase extract exhibited the highest antioxidative activity, but no tyrosinase inhibitory effect. Whereas, the ATPS bottom-phase extract was proved to be effective ABTS radical scavenger and tyrosinase inhibitor, suggesting the potency of the alcohol-salt ATPS purification for the different medicinal purposes.
Os avanços da biotecnologia nas últimas décadas têm transformado a diversidade biológica de mera fonte de matéria prima, em recurso informacional indispensável para o conhecimento científico e tecnológico desta área, em especial na fabricação de produtos ou processos elaborados a partir de espécies de plantas nativas da biodiversidade brasileira. Considerando que as grandes empresas internacionais vêm incorporando ativos da biodiversidade amazônica como matéria prima para o lançamento de seus produtos, este estudo pretende investigar, por meio de informações tecnológicas contidas em uma base de patente, as tendências tecnológicas de processos e/ou produtos relativos a E. oleracea, visando orientar linhas e projetos de pesquisa e de desenvolvimento tecnológico por pesquisadores vinculados a área de biotecnologia aplicada à saúde humana.
The desire to protect, maintain and improve the skin combined with fears of long term effects of synthetic chemicals has sparked interest in alternative, ‘natural’ topical therapies. With time, there are structural and functional changes in the skin such as skin thinning and loss of elasticity leading to the development of wrinkles, increased skin roughness leading to surface textural changes, and dyspigmentation in sun-exposed locations. Increasing demand for more cost-effective products with preventative and therapeutic effects has generated a wealth of salves with claims of biological activity. Cosmeceuticals containing natural ingredients are alternative therapies wielding anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-aging effects. Despite the absence of critical analysis in the scientific literature regarding effectiveness, oatmeal and soy compounds have received heightened attention given a multitude of medical articles and anecdotal claims and photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging effects with oral consumption and topical application. Although, there is no true critical analysis in the scientific literature regarding effectiveness. In this chapter, oatmeal and soy as ingredients in cosmeceutical products will be discussed with regards to their proposed mechanisms of action and clinical utility.
In cultured human skin fibroblasts, ascorbic acid stimulates collagen production with no apparent change in the intracellular degradation of newly synthesized procollagen. To understand the basis for this effect, we measured the steady-state levels of type I and type III procollagen mRNAs in cells treated with ascorbic acid. A three- to fourfold increase in collagen synthesis was associated with a two- to threefold increase in the levels of mRNAs for both type I and type III procollagens. These effects of ascorbic acid are explained by a translational control linked either to procollagen gene transcription or mRNA degradation.
Botanical extracts and preparations have been used in different pathological conditions with success. An important group of phytochemical phenolic compounds are the catechins found in green tea. Acne is a widely occurring inflammatory condition that is estimated to affect 40 to 50 million Americans. Finding an effective, safe, cost-effective and well-tolerated treatment is the challenge.
To determine the efficacy of 2% green tea lotion in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris.
Twenty patients fulfilling enrolment criteria were included. Green tea was given and applied twice daily for a period of 6 weeks. The patients were seen every 2 weeks to evaluate the lesions and any side effects. To determine efficacy on acne severity, the authors used both total lesion count (TLC) and their devised severity index (SI). Total lesions count (TLC) was calculated as papules + pustules while SI was scaled with numbers (1, 2 or 3) correlating to TLC in order of increasing intensity. TLC < 10 was given an SI of 1, TLC 10-20 was given an SI of 2 and TLC > 20 was given an SI of 3.
The mean total lesion count (TLC) decreased from 24 before the treatment to 10 after 6 weeks after treatment, a reduction of 58.33%. The difference was statistically significant (P < 0.0001, 95% confidence interval [CI] of the difference = 8.58 - 19.42). The mean severity index (SI) decreased from 2.05 before treatment to 1.25 after 6 weeks treatment, a decrease of 39.02%. The difference was statistically significant (P < 0.0001, confidence interval [CI] of the difference = 0.54-1.26). Conclusion: Topical 2% green tea lotion is an effective, cost-effective treatment for mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris.
Herbal therapy is becoming increasingly popular among patients and physicians. Many herbal preparations are marketed to the public for various ailments including those of the skin. Herbal therapies have been used successfully in treating dermatologic disorders for thousands of years in Europe and Asia. In Germany, a regulatory commission oversees herbal preparations and recommended uses. In Asia, herbal treatments that have been used for centuries are now being studied scientifically. Currently, the United States does not regulate herbal products, as they are considered dietary supplements. Therefore, there is no standardization of active ingredients, purity, or concentration. There are also no regulations governing which herbs can be marketed for various ailments. This has made learning about and using these treatments challenging. Information compiled in a practical fashion may enable more patients to benefit from these treatments currently used worldwide. We reviewed the herbal medications that show scientific evidence of clinical efficacy, as well as the more common herbs shown to be useful in the treatment of dermatologic disorders. The safety of each herb has been addressed to better enable the physician to know which herbal therapies they may want to begin to use in practice. Common drug interactions and side effects of herbal medicines that may be seen in the dermatologic setting were also studied.
Melasma (or chloasma) is a common disorder of cutaneous hyperpigmentation predominantly affecting sun-exposed areas in women. The pathogenesis of melasma is not fully understood and treatments are frequently disappointing and often associated with side effects.
Pycnogenol® is a standardized extract of the bark of the French maritime pine (Pinus pinaster), a well-known, potent antioxidant. Studies in vitro show that Pycnogenol® is several times more powerful than vitamin E and vitamin C. In addition, it recycles vitamin C, regenerates vitamin E and increases the endogenous antioxidant enzyme system. Pycnogenol® protects against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Therefore its efficacy in the treatment of melasma was investigated.
Thirty women with melasma completed a 30-day clinical trial in which they took one 25 mg tablet of Pycnogenol® with meals three times daily, i.e. 75 mg Pycnogenol® per day. These patients were evaluated clinically by parameters such as the melasma area index, pigmentary intensity index and by routine blood and urine tests.
After a 30-day treatment, the average melasma area of the patients decreased by 25.86 ± 20.39 mm2 (p < 0.001) and the average pigmentary intensity decreased by 0.47 ± 0.51 unit (p < 0.001). The general effective rate was 80%. No side effect was observed. The results of the blood and urine test parameters at baseline and at day 30 were within the normal range. Moreover, several other associated symptoms such as fatigue, constipation, pains in the body and anxiety were also improved.
To conclude, Pycnogenol® was shown to be therapeutically effective and safe in patients suffering from melasma. Copyright
Vitamin C is known to both inhibit melanin formation and reduce oxidized melanin. However, vitamin C does not easily penetrate the skin. In this study, vitamin C iontophoresis was employed in order to enhance vitamin C penetration.
The purpose of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of vitamin C iontophoresis for melasma patients.
Twenty-nine females with melasma were enrolled. For iontophoresis, a vitamin C solution was applied to one side of the face, while distilled water was applied to the other side as a control. The L (luminance) value was measured by a colorimeter to obtain an objective pigmentation parameter.
Twelve weeks after iontophoresis, the colorimeter of the treated site showed a significant decrease in the L value (from 4.60 to 2.78, p = 0.002), compared to that of the control site (from 4.45 to 3.87, p = 0.142).
Vitamin C iontophoresis may be an effective treatment modality for melasma.
Pomegranate (Punica granatum) is an ancient fruit with exceptionally rich ethnomedical applications. The peel (pericarp) is well regarded for its astringent properties; the seeds for conferring invulnerability in combat and stimulating beauty and fertility. Here, aqueous fractions prepared from the fruit's peel and fermented juice and lipophilic fractions prepared from pomegranate seeds were examined for effects on human epidermal keratinocyte and human dermal fibroblast function. Pomegranate seed oil, but not aqueous extracts of fermented juice, peel or seed cake, was shown to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation in monolayer culture. In parallel, a mild thickening of the epidermis (without the loss of ordered differentiation) was observed in skin organ culture. The same pomegranate seed oil that stimulated keratinocyte proliferation was without effect on fibroblast function. In contrast, pomegranate peel extract (and to a lesser extent, both the fermented juice and seed cake extracts) stimulated type I procollagen synthesis and inhibited matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1; interstitial collagenase) production by dermal fibroblasts, but had no growth-supporting effect on keratinocytes. These results suggest heuristic potential of pomegranate fractions for facilitating skin repair in a polar manner, namely aqueous extracts (especially of pomegranate peel) promoting regeneration of dermis, and pomegranate seed oil promoting regeneration of epidermis.
Curcumin (Diferuloylmethane) is a major chemical component of turmeric (curcuma longa) and is used as a spice to give a specific flavor and yellow color in Asian food. Curcumin exhibits growth inhibitory effects in a broad range of tumors as well as in TPA-induced skin tumors in mice. This study was undertaken to investigate the radiosensitizing effects of curcumin in p53 mutant prostate cancer cell line PC-3. Compared to cells that were irradiated alone (SF(2)=0.635; D(0)=231 cGy), curcumin at 2 and 4 microM concentrations in combination with radiation showed significant enhancement to radiation-induced clonogenic inhibition (SF(2)=0.224: D(0)=97 cGy and SF(2)=0.080: D(0)=38 cGy) and apoptosis. It has been reported that curcumin inhibits TNF-alpha-induced NFkappaB activity that is essential for Bcl-2 protein induction. In PC-3 cells, radiation upregulated TNF-alpha protein leading to an increase in NFkappaB activity resulting in the induction of Bcl-2 protein. However, curcumin in combination with radiation treated showed inhibition of TNF-alpha-mediated NFkappaB activity resulting in bcl-2 protein downregulation. Bax protein levels remained constant in these cells after radiation or curcumin plus radiation treatments. However, the downregulation of Bcl-2 and no changes in Bax protein levels in curcumin plus radiation-treated PC-3 cells, together, altered the Bcl2 : Bax ratio and this caused the enhanced radiosensitization effect. In addition, significant activation of cytochrome c and caspase-9 and -3 were observed in curcumin plus radiation treatments. Together, these mechanisms strongly suggest that the natural compound curcumin is a potent radiosesitizer, and it acts by overcoming the effects of radiation-induced prosurvival gene expression in prostate cancer.
Licochalcone A (LicA), a major phenolic constituent of the licorice species Glycyrrhiza inflata, has recently been reported to have anti-inflammatory as well as anti-microbial effects. These anti-inflammatory properties might be exploited for topical applications of LicA. We conducted prospective randomized vehicle-controlled clinical trials to assess the anti-irritative efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing LicA in a post-shaving skin irritation model and on UV-induced erythema formation. The clinical trials were accompanied by a series of in vitro experiments to characterize anti-inflammatory properties of LicA on several dermatologically relevant cell types. Topical LicA causes a highly significant reduction in erythema relative to the vehicle control in both the shave- and UV-induced erythema tests, demonstrating the anti-irritative properties of LicA. Furthermore, LicA is a potent inhibitor of pro-inflammatory in vitro responses, including N-formyl-MET-LEU-PHE (fMLP)- or zymosan-induced oxidative burst of granulocytes, UVB-induced PGE(2) release by keratinocytes, lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced PGE(2) release by adult dermal fibroblasts, fMLP-induced LTB(4) release by granulocytes, and LPS-induced IL-6/TNF-alpha secretion by monocyte-derived dendritic cells. The reported data suggest therapeutic skin care benefits from LicA when applied to sensitive or irritated skin.
Long-term chemical instability is an inherent characteristic of all retinoids, which readily degrade when exposed to oxygen and/or sunlight. The advent of new formulations and packaging techniques appear to have circumvented this obstacle, and over-the-counter (OTC) products containing retinol are now available for the rejuvenation of photodamaged skin. Once applied to the skin, retinol is protected from photodegradation by the epidermis, serum, and keratinocytes. The improvements in manufacturing and packaging of retinol have catapulted this agent into the antiaging armamentarium.
The specific mechanisms of collagen induction in human dermal fibroblasts by ascorbic acid and transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1) and their effect in combination are uncertain. Collagen synthesis and steady-state levels of proα1(I) and proα1(III) collagen RNA were examined in human dermal flbroblasts treated with 100 μm ascorbic acid, 2.5 ng/ml TGF-β1, or both. Within 72 h ascorbic acid and TGF-β1 had increased collagen synthesis by 2.55 ± 0.32- and 1.98 ± 0.13-fold, respectively; in the presence of both, collagen synthesis increased 4.51 ± 0.74-fold, appearing additive. Ascorbic acid acts specifically by increasing relative collagen synthesis whereas TGF-β1 increases overall protein synthesis. Steady-state levels of the proα1(I) collagen (5.8 and 4.8 kb) and proα1(III) collagen (5.4 and 4.8 kb) mRNAs were examined independently. Under each condition the steady-state levels of the longer transcripts for proα1(I) and proα1(III) collagens appeared coordinately and preferentially elevated. In the presence of both ascorbic acid and TGF-β1 the steady-state RNA levels did not increase in an additive manner, suggesting that the additive increase in collagen synthesis results from additional post-transcriptional mechanisms.
Zinc is an essential trace element for the human organism. It acts like cofactor for the metalloenzymes involved in many cellular processes. Its anti-inflammatory activity, which is the basis of therapeutic use, other than acrodermatitis enteropathica, is not well known: production of cytokines, antioxidant activity…
Its toxicity is very low, but marked at high doses during chronic administration by the risk of hypocupremia. It is not teratogenic and can be given during pregnancy.
Its absorption, through the duodenum, is inhibited by excessive phytate intake. Maximum concentration is reached after 2 to 3 hours. It is widely distributed in the organism, mainly in muscles and bone. Excretion is predominantly digestive.
Its spectacular effect in acrodermatitis enteropathica, through compensation of genetically determined malabsorption was discovered in 1973. Its usefulness in acne is based on the anti-inflammatory action and was first described with zinc sulfate, then with better tolerated gluconate. Many controlled studies have shown an efficacy on inflammatory lesions. Doses varied from 30 to 150 mg of elemental zinc and studies against cyclines have shown that minocycline has a superior effect; but zinc might be an alternative treatment when cyclines are contraindicated.
To date we don’t have convincing data for its use in other indications (leishmaniosis, warts, cutaneous ulcers).
Tolerance at usual doses (200 mg of zinc gluconate or 30 mg of elemental zinc) is good. Major side effects are abdominal with nausea, vomiting, but are fleeting and dose dependent.
The purpose of this double-blind, placebo-controlled study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy and tolerability of topical Aloe vera extract 0.5% in a hydrophilic cream to cure patients with psoriasis vulgaris. Sixty patients (36M/24F) aged 18–50 years (mean 25.6) with slight to moderate chronic plaque-type psoriasis and PASI (Psoriasis Area and Severity Index) scores between 4.8 and 16.7 (mean 9.3) were enrolled and randomized to two parallel groups. The mean duration of the disease prior to enrolment was 8.5 years (range 1–21). Patients were provided with a precoded 100 g tube, placebo or active (with 0.5%Aloe vera extract), and they self-administered trial medication topically (without occlusion) at home 3 times daily for 5 consecutive days per week (maximum 4 weeks active treatment). Patients were examined on a weekly basis and those showing a progressive reduction of lesions, desquamation followed by decreased erythema, infiltration and lowered PASI score were considered healed. The study was scheduled for 16 weeks with 12 months of follow-up on a monthly basis. The treatment was well tolerated by all the patients, with no adverse drug-related symptoms and no dropouts. By the end of the study, the Aloe vera extract cream had cured 25/30 patients (83.3%) compared to the placebo cure rate of 2/30 (6.6%) (P<0.001) resulting in significant clearing of the psoriatic plaques (328/396 (82.8%) vs placebo 28/366 (7.7%), P<0.001) and a decreased PASI score to a mean of 2.2. The findings of this study suggest that topically applied Aloe vera extract 0.5% in a hydrophilic cream is more effective than placebo, and has not shown toxic or any other objective side-effects. Therefore, the regimen can be considered a safe and alternative treatment to cure patients suffering from psoriasis.
Background. Vitamin E is a generic term for a group of tocol and tocotrienol derivatives. Since the discovery that vitamin E is the major lipid soluble antioxidant in skin, this substance has been tried for the treatment of almost every type of skin lesion imaginable. Anecdotal reports claim that vitamin E speeds wound healing and improves the cosmetic outcome of burns and other wounds. Many lay people use vitamin E on a regular basis to improve the outcome of scars and several physicians recommend topical vitamin E after skin surgery or resurfacing.Objective. We attempted to determine whether topically applied vitamin E has any effect on the cosmetic appearance of scars as suggested by multiple anectodal reports.Methods. Fifteen patients who had undergone skin cancer removal surgery were enrolled in the study. All wounds were primarily closed in 2 layers. After the surgery, the patients were given two ointments each labeled A or B. A was Aquaphor, a regular emollient, and the B was Aquaphor mixed with vitamin E. The scars were randomly divided into parts A and B. Patients were asked to put the A ointment on part A and the B ointment on part B twice daily for 4 weeks. The study was double blinded. The physicians and the patients independently evaluated the scars for cosmetic appearance on Weeks 1, 4, and 12. The criteria was simply to recognize which side of the scar looked better if there was any difference. The patients’ and the physicians’ opinions were recorded. A third blinded investigator was shown photographs of the outcomes and their opinion was also noted.Results. The results of this study show that topically applied vitamin E does not help in improving the cosmetic appearance of scars and leads to a high incidence of contact dermatitis.Conclusions. This study shows that there is no benefit to the cosmetic outcome of scars by applying vitamin E after skin surgery and that the application of topical vitamin E may actually be detrimental to the cosmetic appearance of a scar. In 90% of the cases in this study, topical vitamin E either had no effect on, or actually worsened, the cosmetic appearance of scars. Of the patients studied, 33% developed a contact dermatitis to the vitamin E. Therefore we conclude that use of topical vitamin E on surgical wounds should be discouraged.
Abstract This study was conducted to evaluate the effects of unsaturated fatty acids on ultraviolet-induced hyperpigmentation of the
skin. An efficient lightening effect was observed following topical application of linoleic acid or α-linolenic acid to UV-stimulated
hyperpigmented dorsal skin of brownish guinea pigs. The number of melanocytes in the treated skin was similar to the number
in the skin of the pigmented control, indicating that the pigment-lightening effect was not due to depletion of melanocytes.
In vitro experiments using cultured murine melanoma cells showed that melanin production was inhibited most effectively by
α-linolenic acid, followed by linoleic acid and then by oleic acid. Furthermore, the turnover of the stratum corneum, which
plays an important role in the removal of melanin pigment from the epidermis, was accelerated by linoleic acid and by α-linolenic
acid. Taken together, the results suggest that the pigment-lightening effects of linoleic acid and α-linolenic acid are, at
least in part, due to suppression of melanin production by active melanocytes, and to enhanced desquamation of melanin pigment
from the epidermis.
Using a hydroxyl radical scavenging assay, bioactivity-guided fractionation of a methanol-soluble extract of the fruits of Euterpe oleracea (acai) led to the isolation of 22 compounds of previously known structure. Altogether, 14 of these isolates were found to be active in an in vitro hydroxyl radical scavenging assay and seven of these isolates in a 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging assay. Dihydroconiferyl alcohol, (+)-lariciresinol, (+)-pinoresinol, (+)-syringaresinol, and protocatechuic acid methyl ester exhibited cytoprotective activity in cultured MCF-7 cells stressed by H2O2. Lignans have not been previously reported as constituents of this species and were found to be representative of the aryltetrahydronaphthalene, dihydrobenzofuran, furofuran, 8-O-4'-neolignan, and tetrahydrofuran structural types.
To evaluate effectiveness of 2% tea lotion in comparison with 5% zinc sulphate solution in the treatment of acne vulgaris.
This is a single-blind randomly comparative therapeutic clinical trial carried out in the Department of Dermatology, Baghdad Teaching Hospital, Baghdad, Iraq from June 2006 to December 2007. Full history and clinical examination were studied for each patient regarding all relevant points of the disease, to evaluate the severity of acne. Forty-seven patients with acne vulgaris were divided randomly into 2 groups, and were instructed to use the following solutions twice daily for 2 months; group A used 2% tea lotion, group B used 5% zinc sulphate solution. Patients with papulopustular lesions were included in the study, while patients with severe acne were excluded. The clinical improvement was scored by counting the number of inflammatory lesions before, and after treatment.
Forty patients completed the study, their ages ranged from 13-27 years with a mean+/-standard deviation of 19.5+/-3.5 years with 20 patients in each group. Two percent tea lotion was statistically significant in decreasing the number of the inflammatory lesions in acne vulgaris, while 5% zinc sulphate solution was beneficial, but did not reach statistically significant level as tea lotion.
Two percent tea lotion was a good alternative remedy to be used in the treatment of acne vulgaris, and was much superior than topical 5% zinc sulphate solution.
To evaluate the efficacy and safety of treatment with indigo naturalis in patients with recalcitrant plaque-type psoriasis.
Randomized, observer-blind, vehicle-controlled, intrapatient comparison study.
Ambulatory department of a hospital.
Forty-two outpatients with chronic plaque psoriasis were enrolled in the study from May 1, 2004, to April 30, 2005.
The patients applied either indigo naturalis ointment or vehicle ointment topically to each of 2 bilaterally symmetrical psoriatic plaque lesions for 12 weeks (depending on the date of enrollment in the study).
The outcomes were assessed using the following criteria: the sum of erythema, scaling, and induration scores and the clearing percentage of the target plaque lesion assessed by 2 blinded observers.
Significant reductions in the sum of scaling, erythema, and induration scores (P < .001) (mean score, 6.3 after indigo naturalis treatment vs 12.8 in control subjects) and plaque area percentage (P < .001) (mean percentage, 38.5% after indigo naturalis treatment vs 90% in controls) were achieved with topical application of indigo naturalis ointment. Approximately 31 of 42 patients (74%) experienced clearance or near clearance of their psoriasis in the indigo ointment-treated lesion.
Topical indigo naturalis ointment was a novel, safe, and effective therapy for plaque-type psoriasis.
Genistein, daidzein, and glycitein are soy isoflavones. These compounds can be used to protect the skin from oxidative stress induced by UVB radiation. To this end, the feasibility of skin absorption of soy isoflavones was evaluated in the present study. As assayed by flow cytometry, UVB-induced H(2)O(2) production in keratinocytes was inhibited by genistein and daidzein, confirming that these two compounds can act as free radical scavengers when keratinocytes are photodamaged. Glycitein showed no protective activity against photodamage. The effects of vehicles on the in vitro topical delivery from saturated solutions such as aqueous buffers and soybean oil were investigated. The isoflavones in a non-ionized form (pH 6) showed higher skin deposition compared to the ionized form (pH 10.8). Soybean oil reduced the isoflavone amount retained in the skin, especially for genistein. Genistein generally exhibited greater skin absorption than did daidzein. However, daidzein permeation was enhanced when an aglycone mixture was used as the active ingredient. An eutectic effect was proposed as the enhancing mechanism. In vivo skin deposition showed a linear correlation with the in vitro results. The safety profiles suggested no or only negligible stratum corneum disruption and skin erythema by topical application of soy isoflavones. It was concluded that topical delivery may serve as a potent route for soy isoflavones against photoaging and photodamage.
Hypocupremia occurred in an adult with sickle cell anemia who received zinc as an antisickling agent for two years. The hypocupremia was associated with microcytosis and relative neutropenia. Administration of copper resulted in an increase in RBC size and leukocyte counts. We have since observed hypoceruloplasminemia of varying degrees in several other sickle cell anemia patients who were receiving oral zinc therapy. This complication was easily corrected by copper supplementation.
A double-blind, 12-week study was undertaken to determine the safety and efficacy of a formulation of 4% erythromycin plus 1.2% zinc acetate compared with its vehicle. The study was continued for 40 weeks after the 12-week double-blind phase by switching vehicle-treated patients to active treatment and continuing to give patients treated with active drug the same treatment. Seventy-three female patients started the study; 39 completed 1 full year of study. In the first 12 weeks statistically significant differences were noted in the efficacy of the erythromycin-zinc compared with vehicle for acne severity grades (global assessment) and for papule, pustule, and comedo counts. After crossover, the vehicle-treated group receiving active therapy duplicated the improvement of the group initially treated with erythromycin-zinc. No clinical problems with superinfection or secondary infection occurred during 1 year of treatment in 39 patients.
Several events are associated with cellular aging: alterations in the extracellular matrix, loss of the cell's proliferative capacity, and decreased responsiveness to growth factors. In skin, a major component of the extracellular matrix is collagen; an important regulator of collagen synthesis is ascorbic acid, which may also have growth factor-like properties. To investigate the relationship of the extracellular matrix and proliferative capacity to aging, we examined the effects of ascorbic acid on cell proliferation and collagen expression in dermal fibroblasts from donors of two age classes, newborn (3-8 d old) and elderly (78-93 years old). In the absence of ascorbic acid (control) proliferative capacities were inversely related to age; newborn cell lines proliferated faster and reached greater densities than elderly cell lines. However, in the presence of ascorbic acid both newborn and elderly cells proliferated at a faster rate and reached higher densities than controls. To determine whether there are age-related differences in extracellular matrix production and ascorbic acid responsiveness we examined and found that collagen biosynthesis (collagenase-digestible protein) was inversely related to age, but the stimulation by ascorbic acid appeared age independent. The increase in collagen synthesis was reflected by coordinate increases in steady-state pro alpha 1(I) and pro alpha 1(III) collagen mRNAs, suggesting a pretranslational mechanism. Ascorbic acid appears capable of overcoming the reduced proliferative capacity of elderly dermal fibroblasts, as well as increasing collagen synthesis in elderly cells by similar degrees as in newborn cells even though basal levels of collagen synthesis are age dependent.
Systemic and topical antimicrobials are effective in the treatment of inflammatory acne vulgaris; however, widespread use of these agents is becoming increasingly associated with the emergence of resistant pathogens raising concerns about microorganism resistance and highlighting the need for alternative nonantimicrobial agents for the treatment of acne. Nicotinamide gel provides potent antiinflammatory activity without the risk of inducing bacterial resistance.
In our double-blind investigation, the safety and efficacy of topically applied 4% nicotinamide gel was compared to 1% clindamycin gel for the treatment of moderate inflammatory acne vulgaris. Seventy-six patients were randomly assigned to apply either 4% nicotinamide gel (n = 38) or 1% clindamycin gel (n = 38) twice daily for 8 weeks. Efficacy was evaluated at 4 and 8 weeks using a Physician's Global Evaluation, Acne Lesion Counts, and an Acne Severity Rating.
After 8 weeks, both treatments produced comparable (P = 0.19) beneficial results in the Physician's Global Evaluation of Inflammatory Acne; 82% of the patients treated with nicotinamide gel and 68% treated with clindamycin gel were improved. Both treatments produced statistically similar reductions in acne lesions (papules/pustules; -60%, nicotinamide vs. -43%, clindamycin, P = 0.168), and acne severity (-52% nicotinamide group vs. -38% clindamycin group, P = 0.161).
These data demonstrate that 4% nicotinamide gel is of comparable efficacy to 1% clindamycin gel in the treatment of acne vulgaris. Because topical clindamycin, like other antimicrobials, is associated with emergence of resistant microorganisms, nicotinamide gel is a desirable alternative treatment for acne vulgaris.
An inhibitory effect of ascorbic acid (AsA) on melanogenesis has been described. However, AsA is quickly oxidized and decomposed in aqueous solution and thus is not generally useful as a depigmenting agent.
Our purpose was to examine the effect on pigmentation of magnesium-L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate (VC-PMG), a stable derivative of AsA.
Percutaneous absorption of VC-PMG was examined in dermatomed human skin, and its effect on melanin production by mammalian tyrosinase and human melanoma cells in culture was also measured. A 10% VC-PMG cream was applied to the patients.
VC-PMG suppressed melanin formation by tyrosinase and melanoma cells. In situ experiments demonstrated that VC-PMG cream was absorbed into the epidermis and that 1.6% remained 48 hours after application. The lightening effect was significant in 19 of 34 patients with chloasma or senile freckles and in 3 of 25 patients with normal skin.
VC-PMG is effective in reducing skin hyperpigmentation in some patients.
Orally in liquid diet administered procyanidin-containing extracts from Pinus pinaster Ait. decreased the croton oil-induced ear edema in mice or the compound 48/80-induced hind paw edema in rats to a statistically significant extent. Most effective were the extracts containing mainly oligomeric procyanidins with chain lengths greater then 4 units (extracts A or B). Further, the different extracts incorporated in various concentrations (1.0, 3.0 or 0.1%) in 5% hydroxyethylcellulose gel and applied topically on the shaved back of rats, inhibited significantly the ultraviolet radiation-induced increased capillary permeability. In these experiments, normalisation of capillary permeability was not correlated with the content of the extracts on higher oligomeric procyanidins.
Colloidal grain suspensions have been used for decades as adjuncts in the treatment of atopic dermatitis, especially in the US. In Italy, many young children have been exposed to colloidal grains. Recently, it was suggested that these bath therapies may induce allergic contact dermatitis in some young atopic children.
To evaluate the allergic skin reactions to topical oat and rice colloidal grain suspensions of normal and atopic children with and without previous exposure to colloidal grain suspensions.
A double-blind, randomized patch study. Two concentrations of oat and rice colloidal grains (0.007% and 0.7%) were applied occlusively to the backs of 65 children living in Italy, ages 6 months to 2 years (43 were atopic and 22 were normal).
There were neither immediate urticarial nor allergic reactions in any of the 65 study subjects, atopic or nonatopic; 5 of 43 (12%) atopic subjects developed irritant reactions to the test materials. Radioallergosorbent tests (RAST) tests were performed on 55 subjects. The negative RAST test results found in the nonatopic group correlated well with nonatopic status, but positive RAST tests were found in only 8 of 35 (23%) atopic dermatitis subjects. None of the sera from positive RAST scores corresponded to subjects with irritant patch reactions.
The data indicate that topical colloidal grains can be used as an adjunct in the management of mild atopic dermatitis in children under 2 years of age. There was no evidence of sensitization to topical colloidal grains in the group studied.
Past studies have shown that topical treatment of suntxposed skin with all-trans retinoic acid improves the clinical and histologic appearance of the skin. This is mociated with a reduction in matrix metalloproteinase elaboration and with expression of a newly synthesized collagenous matrix. Whether retinoid therapy might have a similar impact on the appearance of intrinsically aged skin is not known. This study, using human skin in organ culture and epidermal keratinocytes and fibroblasts in monolayer culture, show that retinoic acid stimulates growth of both keratinocytes and fibroblasts and stimu-lates extracellular matrix production by the fibroblasts.
Adult skin from sun-exposed and sun-protected sites responds equally well to retinoic acid, whereas neonatal skin is much less responsive under the same conditions. The implications of this are (i) that retinoids may be able to repair intrinsically aged skin as well as photoaged skin, and (ii) that retinoids modulate human skin cell function in a manner that is age-related, and not simply a response to photodamage. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings 3:57-60, 1998
In this review, we discuss some common herbal preparations historically used for dermatologic conditions and recent studies that support their use. The traditional practice of topically treating dermatologic conditions with plant-derived medicines predates the cultures of ancient Egypt and remains vital today in the industrialized cultures of both the United States and Europe. Recent scientific studies lend support to some of the claims of herbal practitioners for the safety and efficacy of many herbs. The studies also elucidate, in some cases, the mechanisms by which these herbs act. With the growing interest in alternative and complementary therapies, practitioners need more information. Clinical studies and collected observations will help define specific indications for choice of herbal treatment based on both the skin disorder and the unique characteristics of the patient involved.
Glabridin is the main ingredient in hydrophobia fraction of licorice extract affecting on skins. In this study, we investigated inhibitory effects of glabridin on melanogenesis and inflammation using cultured B16 murine melanoma cells and guinea pig skins. The results indicated that glabridin inhibits tyrosinase activity of these cells at concentrations of 0.1 to 1.0 μg/ml and had no detectable effect on their DNA synthesis. Combined analysis of SDS-polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis and DOPA staining on the large granule fraction of these cells disclosed that glabridin decreased specifically the activities of Tl and T3 tyrosinase isozymes.
It was also shown that UVB-induced pigmentation and erythema in the skins of guinea pigs were inhibited by topical applications of 0.5% glabridin. Anti-inflammatory effects of glabridin in vitro were also shown by its inhibition of superoxide anion productions and cyclooxygenase activities. These data indicated that glabridin is a unique compound possessing more than one function; not only the inhibition of melanogenesis but also the inhibition of inflammation in the skins.
By replacing each of hydroxyl groups of glabridin with others, it was revealed that the inhibitory effect of 2′-O-ethyl glabridin was significantly stronger than that of 4′-O-ethyl-glabridin on melanin synthesis in cultured B16 cells at the concentration of 1.0 mg/inl. With replacement of both of two hydroxyl groups, the inhibitory effect was totally lost. Based on these data, we concluded that two hydroxyl groups of glabridin are important for the inhibition of melanin synthesis and that the hydroxyl group at the 4’ position of this compound is more closely related to melanin synthesis.
Close association exists between melanocytes, the pigment melanin-producing cells in the body, and their neighboring keratinocytes. Keratinocytes are the pigment recipients and skin pigmentation is the result of this interaction. While the chemical basis of melanin production (melanogenesis) is well documented, the molecular mechanism of melanosome transfer needs to be elucidated. We are now providing first evidence that the protease-activated receptor 2 (PAR-2) expressed on keratinocytes, but not on melanocytes, is involved in melanosome transfer and therefore may regulate pigmentation. Activation of PAR-2 with trypsin or with the peptide agonist SLIGRL induced pigmentation in both two- and three-dimensional cocultures of keratinocytes and melanocytes, but not in cocultures that were spatially separated, indicating the need for intimate cell-cell contact. Topical application of SLIGRL on human skin transplanted on SCID mice resulted in a visible skin darkening. Histological examination revealed increased deposits of melanin in the keratinocytes. Inhibition of PAR-2 activation by RWJ-50353, a serine protease inhibitor, resulted in depigmentation and changes in expression of melanogenic-specific genes. Keratinocyte-melanocyte contact was essential for this depigmenting effect. Topical application of this inhibitor induced lightening of the dark skin Yucatan swine, which was confirmed by histochemical analysis. The results presented here suggest a novel mechanism for the regulation of pigmentation, mediated by the activation or inhibition of the keratinocyte receptor PAR-2.
Twenty women with a clinical diagnosis of melasma were treated with liquiritin cream on one side of the face and with a vehicle cream on the other side twice daily for 4 weeks. Patients were advised to avoid sun exposure and/or used topical sunscreen during the entire period of treatment.
Inclusion criteria included an age range from 18 to 40 years and bilateral and symmetrical idiopathic epidermal melasma. Exclusion criteria included patients with dermal melasma (differentiated by Wood's light), melasma with pregnancy, and patients currently receiving hormone replacement therapy.
Melasma pigmentary intensity was rated on a five-point scale in relation to the patient's normal facial skin (1, no difference; 2, slightly more pigmented; 3, moderately more pigmented; 4, markedly more pigmented; and 5, intensely more pigmented). The size of the lesions was measured directly using a millimeter grid scale. Ratings and measurements were made prior to treatment and at each of the follow-up visits (after 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 weeks).
Clinical evaluation was performed at week 4; the overall response was rated as excellent, good, fair, or poor. Color photographs were taken at the start and at week 4 of the study. Side-effects were observed and treated.