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Prácticas alimentarias tradicionales indígenas: resistencias y luchas ante los imperios alimentarios
Abstract
La concentración del poder en los sistemas alimentarios globales por parte de corporaciones transnacionales ha generado profundas transformaciones en las dinámicas de producción y consumo de alimentos a nivel global, sin embargo, a nivel local, especialmente en las comunidades rurales e indígenas, el trabajo de las mujeres en la conservación de la producción y preparación de alimentos, han sido importante para el mantenimiento de la cultura alimentaria tradicional. En el presente artículo, a través de una revisión bibliográfica exhaustiva, se hace una reflexión teórica sobre cómo los imperios alimentarios han permeado las prácticas de producción y consumo culinario actuales y a pesar de ello, las prácticas tradicionales indígenas han resistido los envites, luchando contra los imperios y manteniendo una cultura alimentaria tradicional, local y ancestral.
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El sistema alimentario es un recién llegado a los debates sobre la transición ecosocial, y la reflexión sobre el modelo agrícola es periférica al pensamiento ecologista. Sin embargo, sus impactos sobre la crisis socio-ecológica global son cada vez más patentes, al igual que se incrementan los riesgos de crisis de abastecimiento alimentario por el cambio global. El actual modelo agrario mayoritario, orientado a producir comida barata, genera incrementos de renta para las explotaciones más grandes y capitalizadas en modelos de agricultura empresarial. A su vez, genera descensos en la renta y endeudamiento de las explotaciones de mediano y pequeño tamaño, degradación general de las condiciones de vida en el medio rural, y degradación de los ecosistemas. En el artículo se describen, primero, las principales problemáticas socio-ecológicas que atraviesan el sector agrario español, y más tarde se plantean distintas propuestas de acción desde una perspectiva de transición socio-ecológica – agroecológica. Un sistema alimentario sostenible debe desmercantilizar, reducir y localizar la escala de producción de cara a permitir una mayor autonomía -en términos biofísicos – de la producción y de los sistemas alimentarios locales. Para avanzar hacia ello es necesario activar alianzas amplias, en especial con el sector de la agricultura familiar y de los movimientos sociales afines a la transición socio-ecológica
A través de cuatro (4) experiencias en el contexto latinoamericano, esta obra de-rivada de investigación evidencia cómo la gastronomía es un elemento de valor en los procesos locales. Incluso, es un recurso identitario que contribuye al desarrollo cultural y afianza las representaciones sociales de una comunidad. Por tanto, es importante trans-mitir estos conocimientos a las presentes y futuras generaciones, de forma que se gene-ren procesos de apropiación cultural. Además, la gastronomía es un recurso que con una correcta planificación y gestión puede consolidarse como un atractivo turístico cultural, debido a que hay turistas que buscan deleitarse con platos originales.
The food systems and territories of Indigenous Peoples sustain much of the world’s biodiversity, cultivated and wild, through agroecological practices rooted in Indigenous cosmovision and cultural and spiritual values. These food systems have a critical role to play in sustainability transformations but are widely threatened and have received limited research attention. This paper presents the results of four virtual workshops with Indigenous Peoples: a global workshop and local workshops with communities in coastal Kenya, northeast India and southwest China. Indigenous participants highlighted the role of their food systems in resilience to climate change, nutrition, sustainability and resilience to pandemics, and threats from agriculture, development and conservation policies. They called for research on the rapid loss of Indigenous knowledge; Indigenous Peoples’ land rights and food sovereignty; and the impacts of industrial agriculture on Indigenous food systems, stressing the need for decolonial approaches to revitalise Indigenous knowledge. The paper presents a decolonial and interdisciplinary framework for action-research on Indigenous food systems past and present, from farm to plate, drawing on the virtual workshops, Andean decolonising methods and historical approaches. It concludes that decolonising action-research, led by Indigenous Peoples, is urgently needed to reverse the rapid loss of food-related biocultural heritage.
Western discourses around food (in)security and nutrition often focus on food access primarily through male-driven efforts. In turn, the gendered dimension is missing. Yet Indigenous food systems cannot be fully understood without Indigenous women’s worldview, challenges, and labour. Our critique points to the importance of centring Indigenous women’s embodied knowledge systems in our food related research.
Novelty: Rematriating food research regenerates the complexities of kinship wellbeing, sustainable economies, and body sovereignty.
In today's globalized agrifood system (gas), quality is the focus of competition. It is reshaping the social and economic relations in production, processing, distribution and consumption of food, and becoming a barrier to entry for producers who are unable to stay or to rise to the quality standards imposed by corporations that dominate their niche market. The purpose of this article is to analyze the challenges and opportunities of artisanal food production, in the light of theories of regulation and conventions. © 2014. Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México-Instituto de Investigaciones Sociales.
This work analyzes factors relevant to the configuration of the food distribution system in Mexico, where corporate leadership is dominant. It identifies the causes and effects of the expansion of a new, more organized and more competitive business scheme for food distribution as compared to the traditional channels that operated before the advent of this hegemony. The importance of this process and its relation to commercial opening is reflected in a set of territorial expansion strategies through multiple operating modes and establishment sizes to dominate a significant amount of food consumption located mainly in Mexican cities.
Availability of food supply and access are crucial to achieve household food security. Using of indigenous knowledge in solving food shortage remains a powerful means of sustaining household food security. In rural Sudan women are often responsible for food processing and storage, collecting of water and firewood and for generating incomes for subsistence. The objective of this article is to shed light on women ability to manage available resources by using indigenous knowledge to secure food supplies for their household in rural Sudan. The paper argues that women have more roles and responsibilities in achieving household food security especially among the rural communities of Sudan, since it is woman who is responsible for food processing and preserving to increase its availability. Processing of vegetables, fruits, and milk, in times of abundance for times of scarcity using indigenous techniques such as drying or fermentation is exclusively the women's task in rural Sudan. Traditional/indigenous foods provide inexpensive, safe, nutritious foods throughout the whole year. These indigenous foods contribute to diversify the diet of rural people in normal times and are crucial to their survival during times of food shortage. Thus, these indigenous foods become basis of the survival of the rural community. Trial and error experiments contribute to develop many indigenous techniques and practices for processing and preserving foods at rural community level. Indigenous methods and solutions applied by women to sustain household food supplies are culturally acceptable, economically practicable, and more appropriate for the local environment and conditions than modern techniques and solutions suggested by scientific experts. The article gives a brief description of some indigenous foods from various rural areas of Sudan. Rural women have an important role to play in using and preserving this valuable indigenous knowledge. These local-level experts manage to achieve sustainable food security at household levels, with practical, efficient and economic solutions. Thus, one effective means to achieve household food security in rural Sudan is by learning from the women’s indigenous knowledge and inherent capabilities. The value of women’s indigenous knowledge needs to be better recognized and supported within policy.
En la última década se han llevado a cabo numerosos trabajos con el objetivo de analizar la percepción social de la seguridad alimentaria y, en particular, las representaciones sociales del riesgo. La mayoría de estos estudios tratan de dar respuesta a por qué ha ido aumentando la percepción negativa que la población tiene sobre determinadas aplicaciones tecnológicas en los alimentos y, en general, sobre la alimentación industrial justo en el momento en que la comida es muy abundante, la cadena alimentaria está más controlada que nunca, la esperanza de vida de las personas ha alcanzado los niveles más altos o los problemas de salud relacionados con la alimentación, aún persistiendo, tienen unas dimensiones menos dramáticas que en épocas anteriores. Se insiste, sin embargo, en la idea de que hoy sabemos menos o poco acerca de lo que comemos. Si bien es cierto que una parte de esta valoración negativa se puede atribuir a los cambios habidos en las nuevas formas de vida y a la separación que se ha producido entre las actividades de la población y la producción o preparación de sus alimentos, otra parte se debe a la sucesión de las diferentes alertas y crisis alimentarias que a lo largo de este periodo se han producido en el contexto europeo y de las importantes consecuencias que han tenido en términos políticos, económicos y sociales. En este sentido, el debate público surgido en torno a los organismos modificados genéticamente y, en particular, los alimentos transgénicos constituyen un caso paradigmático para ilustrar desde una perspectiva antropológica la variabilidad cultural respecto a su aceptación o rechazo.
Agrarian industrialization and new food regimes have radically changed socioecologies of local and global agrarian structures displacing traditional socioecological strategies of land use and management. This paper analyses this transformation from an agroecological perspective by raising the question of how the agrarian activities and the uses of commons have changed in the municipality of Baunei (Sardinia, Italy) with a special focus on livestock farming. Ethnographic research –through participant observation methods and open and semi-structured in-depth interviews– has enabled to reconstruct the traditional use of land and the strategies of its socioecological management as well as the changes produced by agricultural modernization and modernity at large, and finally, to unveil new perspectives of re-peasantization among Baunei’s shepherds to obtain more feasible and sustainable farms. This study highlights tendencies of re-peasantization in land management strategies and the seek for cooperative answers, including an internal reflection on the socioecological meaning of traditional strategies for managing the commons (in usi cicivi) and provides insights to the new potentials of such management and social cooperation practices together with new agricultural techniques and organizational structures in building more sustainable and just food and agricultural systems.
Women's position in society, gender roles, and gender division of labour affect household food security, dietary diversity, nutritional status, and well-being of all household members, especially children. Building on both primary and secondary data, this study explores gender roles and relations in food provisioning among the North-East India Indigenous matrilineal Khasi and patrilineal Chakhesang Peoples, amid societal transition. With the use of a combination of ethnographic and ethnobotanical research tools, a total number of 200 informants participated in 20 focus group discussions and 28 key informant interviews. The feminist political ecology framework was used to analyse the structural power relations influencing gender food-provisioning labour. Results show that both matrilineal and patrilineal women play equally crucial roles in agrobiodiversity management, subsistence agricultural production, and household food provisioning. However, customary laws shape different gender relations, women's status, and appreciation of women's work in the two societies. Gender roles appeared more flexible in the matrilineal society and more clearly defined in the patrilineal society, and gender relations more egalitarian among the Khasis while more hierarchical among the Chakhesangs. Household food-provisioning work and engagement in agricultural production did not seem to positively contribute to the social status of Chakhesang women, because these were expected as structural elements of the patriarchy. Current socio-cultural and economic changes in both Indigenous societies have altered the traditional food system, traditional livelihoods, and resource management practices, affecting women's role in household food provisioning and leading to the deterioration of women's status, influencing household dietary diversity, food, and nutritional security.
In the context of near-absence of public food safety and quality standards, or the lack of effective implementation of them where they exist, and in order to increase product quality and consistency and differentiate their product from traditional produce retailers, leading supermarket chains in Central America are imposing private standards on their fresh produce suppliers. These are mainly for cosmetic quality, but emerging also are standards for fresh produce safety, in particular for leafy greens and some fruit. They are implementing the private standards at the same time they are cutting costs in order to compete with wetmarkets, via organizational change in the leading chains’ procurement systems (shifting away from use of spot markets and traditional wholesale systems toward centralized purchases and use of implicit contracts and specialized/dedicated wholesalers). They are coupling those changes with some actions to resolve idiosyncratic factor market failures facing farmers such as through provision of technical assistance. The implementation of these private standards of produce safety are good for consumers as they are among the few food safety practices by domestic food industry actors. But the tougher standards are a challenge for producers who need to make significant investments, implying the need for investment assistance and support services by governments. The paper presents field study findings for Costa Rica, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua from 2002 to 2004.
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