ArticleLiterature Review

Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories

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Abstract

As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for longer, healthier lives and environmentally responsible choices. Consumers are increasingly drawn to naturally sourced products with proven health and wellbeing benefits. The marine environment presents a promising yet underexplored resource for the cosmetics industry, offering bioactive compounds with the potential for safe and biocompatible ingredients. This manuscript provides a comprehensive overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in skin/hair/oral-care products, cosmeceuticals and more. It also lays down critical safety considerations and addresses the methodologies for sourcing marine compounds, including harvesting, the biorefinery concept, use of systems biology for enhanced product development, and the relevant regulatory landscape. The review is enriched by three case studies: design of macroalgal skincare products in Iceland, establishment of a microalgal cosmetics spin-off in Italy, and the utilization of marine proteins for cosmeceutical applications.

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Polysaccharides have attracted much attention due to their significant bio-activities. This review aims to summarize the main polysaccharides sources of related polysaccharides from algae, plants, fungus, and bacteria, and give insights into the structure-activity relationship between the moisture retention and structural characteristics of polysaccharides. The molecular weight, functional groups, polysaccharide modifications and apparent structure of polysaccharides are closely related to the moisturizing properties of polysaccharides in terms of moisturizing conformation. Based on recent moisturizing pieces of evidence, we propose a new framework focusing on the moisturizing intrinsic and extrinsic mechanisms. Polysaccharides molecular weight has different effects on moisturizing property. The extrinsic moisturization is mainly via the formation of hydrogen bonds between polysaccharides, the intrinsic moisturizing is mainly by regulating the production of some tight junction proteins. Accordingly, this review could further open the door for the production and application of polysaccharides as novel moisturizing agents in the cosmetic field.
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Squalene, [oxidized form squalane] is a terpenoid with biological activity that produced by animals and plants. In the human body, a significant excretion named as sebum includes squalene in 12 percent. This bioactive compound shows anti-inflammatory, detoxifying, moisturizing and antioxidant effects on the human body. In addition to having these properties, it is known that squalene production decreases as less sebum is produced with age. Because of that, the need for supplementation of squalene through products has arisen. As a result, squalene production has been drawn attention due to its many application possibilities by cosmetic, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical fields. At this point, approximately 3,000 of sharks, the major and the most popular source of squalene must be killed to obtain 1 ton of squalene. These animals are on the verge of extinction. This situation has caused to focus on finding microalgae strains, which are sustainable producers of squalene as alternative to sharks. This review paper summarizes the recent progresses in the topic of squalene. For this purpose, it contains information on squalene producers, microalgal squalene production and cosmetic evaluation of squalene.