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239
Advances in Production Engineering & Management
ISSN 1854-6250
Volume 19 | Number 2 | June 2024 | pp 239–252
Journal home: apem-journal.org
https://doi.org/10.14743/apem2024.2.504
Original scientific paper
Current state and production characteristics of the Polish
tanning industry: A case study
Bielak, E.a,*, Zakrzewska, M.b
aDepartment of Non-food Product Quality and Safety, Krakow University of Economics, Krakow, Poland
bDepartment of Management Process, Krakow University of Economics, Krakow, Poland
A B S T R A C T
A R T I C L E I N F O
This article presents the results of a study on the current state and evaluation
of the Polish tanning industry, focusing on its production characteristics. The
research sample included 220 companies that were contacted to gather in-
formation about their operations. Some of these companies have been sus-
pended, liquidated, or have changed their business profiles. Approximately
30 % confirmed that they are still active in leather manufacturing, indicating
that the Polish tanning industry is experiencing a process of deindustrializa-
tion. Surveys con
ducted in 20 companies revealed that Polish tanneries oper-
ate on national, European, and global scales. Most of them are micro or small
enterprises with annual revenues of up to PLN 5 million. The primary factor
defining their competitiveness is the high quality of the products and services
they offer. They mainly process calfskin and cowhides sourced from Poland
and abroad, primarily for the footwear sector. Polish tanneries are aware of
global trends, including the industry's shift towards ecological practices, the
adoption of modern technologies, and the introduction of innovations. Given
the current challenges facing the Polish tanning industry, it is essential to take
action to improve the health of this sector of the economy.
Keywords:
Polish tanning industry;
Leather manufacturing
;
Micro
and small enterprises;
Ecological transformation;
Deindustrialization;
Competitiveness;
Product quality;
Survey
*
Corresponding author:
bielake@uek.krakow.pl
(
Bielak, E.)
Article history:
Received
22 May 2024
Revised
5 July 2024
Accepted
13 July 2024
Content from this w ork may be used under the terms of
the
Creative Commons A ttribution 4.0 International
Licence (CC BY 4.0) . Any further distribution of thi s work
must maintain attr ibution to the author(s) and the tit le of
the work, journal ci tation and DOI.
1. Introduction
Leather is a valuable raw material used in the production of a variety of products that are con-
sidered luxury by consumers and have been eagerly purchased for years, regardless of the pre-
vailing fashion. Leather manufacturing has a long history and tradition. However, over the years,
the tannery sector has changed due to technological progress, innovative solutions, and, above
all, the introduction of new regulations or the modification of existing ones. It estimates that the
European tanning sector consists of almost 1,600 companies, over 34,000 employees, and gen-
erates a turnover of up to €7.4 billion. In recent years, a gradual concentration has been ob-
served. As recently as 2000, tanneries employed an average of 24 workers, today it is 21. Euro-
pean tanneries range from small and medium-sized enterprises, continuing long family tradi-
tions, to large companies operating internationally [1]. The modern leather industry in Europe is
a strategic area of the manufacturing sector, resulting from a combination of tradition and con-
Bielak, Zakrzewska
240
Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
tinuous innovation. What is more the European market of the leather sector leads, among oth-
ers, in terms of quality, technology, innovation, and sustainable development [2].
Three countries were identified as the largest producers of leather in 2022, i.e. Brazil, the
United States, and Turkey. Their combined share of global production is 33 %. Countries playing
a significant role in global leather export include Italy, Brazil, and China [3]. According to esti-
mates by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), more than 50 % of
the leather produced worldwide is used in the clothing industry. Only about one-fifth is pro-
duced in European tanneries, which have high environmental and safety standards, and require
sustainable processes and chemicals. The result is a high-quality, strength material whose intri-
cate production steps justify calling it a luxury product [4]. It is used to produce various goods
also referred to as luxury [5]. Analysing the destination of leathers supplied by European tanner-
ies, this raw material is mainly used in footwear (41 %), leather goods/accessories (19 %), and
furniture (17 %), but also automotive industry (13 %) and clothing (8 %) [6].
Data from the report Global Leather Goods Market – Industry Trends and Forecast to 2030
[7] confirms the ever-increasing demand for leather goods, projecting that the global market for
these products will continue to grow in the coming years, reaching USD 699,906.77 million by
2030. Premium and high-quality luxury products made from natural leather are expected to be
popular. New and innovative solutions are expected from the global leather industry in terms of
raw material properties and design. However, the sector may be challenged by, inter alia, prob-
lems with technology, equipment, and the lack of adequate leather processing skills. Among the
factors that may have a negative impact on the development of the global leather market are
problems with the availability of raw materials or competition from other materials that are
synthetic substitutes for natural leather. An important aspect, according to Cafasso [8], is to edu-
cate consumers about the origin of the leather products they use, the methods and ways in
which they are produced, and the associated environmental impact. It is worth mentioning that
many researchers concerned the ecology issues and the various aspects of sustainability for ex-
ample according to the footwear industry [9-11], which is closely associated with the tan-
ning/leather sector.
The Polish economy is currently undergoing the process of reindustrialization and is the 7th
largest industrial country in the European Union and 21st in the world, supplying many im-
portant products. However, when it comes to the leather industry, the decline of this industry is
observed in Poland. Data from the Central Statistical Office show that the structure of sold pro-
duction of the clothing, textile, and leather industries in Poland in 2020 decreased by about 9
percentage points compared to 1985 and amounted to 2 % [12]. In the case of the leather and
leather products industry, the sales value for 2021 was PLN 3,836.2 million [13]. In recent years,
there has been a gradual decline in employment in the sector, but a positive trend is an increase
in wages [14]. The most recent data shows that in Poland at the end of December 2023, there
were 310 leather manufacturing and tanning-related entities (PKD 15.11.Z), as well as 2623
footwear manufacturers (PKD 15.20.Z) and 1558 manufacturers of bag and saddlery products
(PKD 15.12.Z) [15]. The Polish leather-footwear industry uses mainly domestic raw materials
for production. Entrepreneurs operating in this sector cooperate closely with the vocational
education system. This is because the work done in their factories is a combination of traditional
craftsmanship, the art of design and construction, as well as the ability to operate increasingly
advanced production machinery [16]. Even though demand for leather products remains high
and, as mentioned above, a further increase in the value of the global leather market is predict-
ed, more and more tanneries are closing down in Poland.
This study aimed to present the current state and make an assessment of the Polish tanning
industry, taking into consideration the characteristics of the production process carried out in
tanneries located in Poland. Once a database of domestic tanneries had been established, a sur-
vey questionnaire was designed and sent to companies via email. Respondents were also al-
lowed to take part in the survey by answering it during a telephone interview. This allowed the
verification of the previously developed database of tanneries, the selection of companies that
are still active in production, and the extraction of information regarding their leather manufac-
Current state and production characteristics of the Polish tanning industry: A case study
Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
241
turing processes. The following research questions were formulated and verified in the course of
the study:
• RQ1: What is the current overall state of the tanning industry in Poland?
• RQ2: What most determines competitiveness in the tanning industry in Poland?
• RQ3: Do the tanneries in Poland know current global business trends concerning their sec-
tor of the economy?
• RQ4: What raw materials are processed in tanneries in Poland, using what tanning meth-
ods, and what goods are produced from Polish leather?
The remainder of this article is organized as follows. The second section describes the re-
search procedure and method used for data collection. This is followed by the presentation of
the results of the research obtained with elements of discussion. The research was then summa-
rized and conclusions were drawn while answering the research questions posed. The final part
of the article includes the formulation of recommendations for further research along with a
discussion of the limitations encountered due to the specifics of the research topic and methods
adopted.
2. Research methodology
2.1 Procedure of the research
The research procedure to achieve the objective of the study is presented in Fig. 1. The research
was conducted in three phases:
(1) RESEARCH PREPARATION PHASE: Following the procedure, the study started by formu-
lating the research problem in the form of a general question: What is the current state of
the tanning industry in Poland and what are the characteristics of the production process
carried out in polish tanneries? Then, to define the scope of the study, an attempt was
made to analyse scientific texts on the issue under investigation. A search for information
and materials on scientific studies carried out on the Polish tanning industry has resulted
in the conclusion that there is a research gap in this area. Based on the information col-
lected, research questions were formulated, as mentioned in the Introduction.
(2) RESEARCH EXECUTION PHASE: A survey approach was selected and used to collect data
to enable further analysis and answers to the research questions. The characteristics of
the research tool are described in detail in section 2.2. The survey was sent to tanneries
located all over Poland. The data collected through the questionnaire was analysed.
(3) RESEARCH SUMMARY PHASE: Based on the interpretation of the research results ob-
tained, the research questions were answered and conclusions were drawn. In addition,
recommendations were formulated in connection with the study.
Fig. 1 Diagram showing the procedure for the research process (Source: Own elaboration)
The authors declare that the research was conducted in accordance with ethical principles.
The article presents non-interventional studies. All interviewees gave informed consent to par-
ticipate in the survey.
Bielak, Zakrzewska
242
Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
2.2 Survey questionnaire design
Based on the review of current industry literature, the operationalization of the research prob-
lem, and having regard to the formulated research questions, a survey questionnaire was de-
signed. In the authors' opinion, a survey was the most appropriate tool for substantive and or-
ganizational reasons. The survey questionnaire used in the study was created in the Microsoft
Forms application.
The survey questionnaire was divided into three sections: formal, substantive, and final. The
formal section was the introduction to the survey. It included a return to the addressees of the
survey, an introduction to the research problem, a presentation of the aim and authors of the
research, assurances of the anonymity of the answers provided, and information on how the
data collected in the research will be used. The substantive part is the part that includes ques-
tions to respondents on the issues of the research problem. The final part of the questionnaire
was devoted to thanking for participation in the research and information regarding the possi-
bility of obtaining the research report.
The questionnaire of the survey consisted of 23 questions, which took the form of both closed
and open questions. The order of questions in the substantive part of the questionnaire was re-
lated to the division of variables into the following categories: company characteristics, market
position, information on the production process, and management information. This publication
presents the data obtained through the respondents' answers to questions 1 to 14, i.e. those re-
lating to the characteristics of the company, its market position, and the production process it
follows. Of the 14 questions analysed, 3 were open-ended – respondents were asked to provide
their own answers. The remaining 11 questions were closed: 6 single-choice questions, 4 multi-
ple-choice questions, and 1 question for putting the given answers in the right order. The infor-
mation gathered through the respondents' answers to the remaining 9 of the 24 questions of the
survey will be included by the authors in the next article, which will focus on management in
Polish tanneries.
2.3 Development of a database of Polish tanneries and data collection
To present the current state and characteristics of the Polish tanning industry, a database of
tanneries was developed. The initial list of tanneries was drawn up in cooperation with the
Polish Chamber of Shoe and Leather Industry [17], an industry organization that has been active
in the leather industry since 1989 and whose mission is to create an economically and organiza-
tionally strong leather industry in Poland and to support its activities internationally. The list
was further supplemented with additional tanneries, based on information obtained from 8
online company and/or service search facilities shown in Table 1.
Table 1 Websites used in the development of the tannery database (Source: Own elaboration)
No.
Website name
Website address
1
Az-Polska.com
https://www.az-polska.com/
2
Baza firm pkt.pl
https://www.pkt.pl/
3
BiznesFinder.pl
https://www.biznesfinder.pl/
4
Cylex Szukaj Lokalnie Polska
https://www.cylex-polska.pl/
5
Firmy.net
https://www.firmy.net/
6
Ohmycraft.pl
https://ohmycraft.pl/
7
Panorama Firm
https://panoramafirm.pl/
8
Polski Katalog Firm
https://pkf.org.pl/
To gather information on Polish tanneries, the following search terms were entered into
search engines on the websites listed in Table 1: 'tanning', 'tannery', and 'leather manufacturing'.
The result of applying the described search method was the creation of a database containing,
for most companies, data such as company name, postal address (in some cases with exact terri-
torial location shown on a map of the country), contact phone number(s), email address, web
address.
Data collection in the study of the state and production process characteristics in Polish tan-
neries was carried out using:
Current state and production characteristics of the Polish tanning industry: A case study
Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
243
• an online survey to which a link was sent via email – this was completed by a representa-
tive of the tannery, or
• a telephone survey in which a representative of the tannery answered questions in an
online survey, the answers being marked by an interviewer.
The timeframe for the development of the tannery database and survey data collection is
shown in Fig. 2. The list of tanneries located in Poland created at the end of 2022 based on in-
formation obtained from the Polish Chamber of the Footwear and Leather Industry and compa-
ny search engines, included 220 companies. The email address provided online was held by 139
of them, so in the first instance, an email was sent to these enterprises in January 2023 with in-
formation about the survey, a link to the survey, and a request to complete it. Of the companies
reached via email, only 5 chose to complete the survey questionnaire in the first quarter of 2023.
The database developed contained between 1 and 3 contact numbers (landline and/or mo-
bile) for 219 companies. As a next step, a telephone contact was therefore attempted, which
proved successful for 89 companies. From the information obtained from the callers, it appeared
that 2 of the 89 companies had changed their business profile, while 67 tanneries (about 30 % of
the 220) confirmed that their core business is related to leather manufacturing. However, 7 of
the 67 companies indicated that they were currently in the process of reducing production and
phasing out. A few respondents also indicated that the enterprises they represent are small, 1-
or 2-person businesses. During the interviews, it became apparent that 20 companies (about 9 %
of the 220) were no longer engaged in leather manufacturing, had suspended or liquidated, or
were in liquidation bankruptcy. The remaining 130 companies (about 59 % of the 220), with
which it was not possible to establish telephone contact despite three attempts made over six
months (April to September 2023), are likely in a similar situation. After dialling the telephone
numbers to these tanneries, found in the companies' online directories, the voicemail turned on
or the answering machine said “The number dialled does not exist”, “There is no such number” or
“The number dialled is not answering at the moment”, or even though the call tone could be heard
in the handset, no one answered the phone.
During a telephone interview with 67 tanneries that confirmed their active leather produc-
tion, several respondents requested that we resend an email containing a link to the survey. No-
tably, nine callers provided alternative email addresses—either company or personal—different
from those listed in our database. Email addresses were also obtained for 4 enterprises where
contact via this route had previously been impossible, due to the lack of availability of an elec-
tronic address on the Internet. Only 4 of the 67 individuals representing actively operating tan-
neries were willing to complete the survey during the telephone interview, while 21 callers de-
finitively refused to participate in the survey, either by telephone or email. In the end, 20 com-
pleted survey questionnaires were obtained.
Fig. 2 Timeline of the tannery database development and survey data collection (Source: Own elaboration)
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Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
2.4 Evaluation of the manoeuvrability in the conducted studies
To assess the research methodology used and the quality of the results obtained, in the context
of their representativeness, return rates were determined (Table 2). According to Kopyść [18],
their estimation allows, among other things, to verify the effectiveness of the applied data collec-
tion methodology and informs whether the sample was properly selected.
Table 2 Return rates in the survey (Source: Own elaboration based on Kopyść [18])
Rates
Equation (%)
Equation components
Values of
components
Values of rates
(%)
Total return (
ro
)
=
100
p
– number of fully completed
questionnaires received
n – number of entities in the
sample
c – number of partially com-
pleted questionnaires received
z – number of outdated ad-
dresses
k – number of entities contacted
o – number of entities that
refused to participate in the
survey
p
= 20
n = 220
z = 153
k = 67
o = 21
c
= 0
9
Return rate of all
questionnaires (rw)
= +
100
9
Actual return of
questionnaires (rr)
=
− 100
30
Rate of survey par-
ticipation (ru)
=
100
30
Rate of refusal (rx)
=
100 31
The total return rate (ro), i.e. the rate indicating the percentage of respondents who answered
taking into account all selected respondents, was estimated at around 9 %. Such a low total re-
turn rate is because in the case of 20 companies, information about their liquidation was ob-
tained, while the vast majority (131 companies) could not be contacted in general, despite re-
peated attempts, which may also indicate that their activities have ceased. Another indicator
estimated was the return rate of all questionnaires (rw), reporting the percentage of completed
questionnaires obtained, regardless of whether respondents answered all the questions in the
questionnaire. As each of the questionnaires returned by respondents was filled in its entirety,
the return rate of all questionnaires equalled the total return rate, i.e. 9 %. This demonstrates,
among other things, the good quality of the survey questionnaire that was designed, as respond-
ents wanted to answer the questions asked and had no trouble doing so.
Taking into account outdated addresses, the actual return of questionnaires rate (rr) allowed
for a more meaningful estimate of the answers to the surveys. Outdated addresses were consid-
ered to be 131 companies that could not be contacted in general (neither by email nor by tele-
phone), 20 tanneries that confirmed that they had ceased operations, and 2 companies that re-
ported a change in their business profile. The actual return rate was approximately 30 %. The
rate of survey participation (ru), taking into account the number of actively operating tanneries
that could be contacted by telephone, was approximately 30 %. It allowed to show a relationship
between the number of enterprises contacted with no answer. The rate of refusal (rx), was
around 31 %. Its estimation allowed to obtain information on respondents who were explicitly
unwilling to participate in the surveys. This could have been due to, among other things, a lack of
interest in the research topic, concerns about sharing company data, or other factors.
3. Results and findings
3.1 General characteristics of Polish tanneries using 20 companies as examples
Of the 20 tanneries that took part in the survey, 10 (50 %) are located in the Mazowieckie Voi-
vodship and 5 (25 %) are located in the Małopolskie Voivodship. One company from the
Dolnośląskie Voivodship, Lubelskie Voivodship, Lubuskie Voivodship, Pomorskie Voivodship,
Current state and production characteristics of the Polish tanning industry: A case study
Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
245
and Śląskie Voivodship (5 % respectively) also decided to complete the survey. The territorial
distribution of these tanneries is shown in Fig. 3. Considering the settlement units, the majori-
ty—14 tanneries (70 %)—are located in rural areas, while the remaining 6 are situated in small-
er or larger cities (4 tanneries, or 20 %, in cities with up to 50,000 inhabitants, and 2 tanneries,
or 10 %, in cities with 51,000 to 100,000 inhabitants).
Fig. 3 Territorial location of the tanneries that took part in the study
(Source: Own elaboration using Bing © GeoNames, Microsoft, TomTom)
When characterising the geographical range of their activities, only 5 % of the tanneries indi-
cated a local range (village/town area), while 15 % a regional range (voivodship area). The
companies in question mainly operate nationally and internationally within Europe (45 % and
35 % respectively), with a select few (about 1/3) also indicating a global reach. Seven of the 20
(35 %) tanneries that participated in the study are micro-enterprises with less than 10 employ-
ees. The largest number, i.e. 9 (45 %), are small enterprises employing between 10 and 49 peo-
ple. 15 % of those surveyed (3 companies), with a workforce of 50-249, are classified as medi-
um-sized enterprises. One of the tanneries surveyed is a large company with more than 250 em-
ployees. This confirms the information contained in the Social & Environmental Report 2020: The
European Leather Industry [1], according to which European tanneries are mainly small and me-
dium-sized enterprises, but also large companies with an international reach. Taking into con-
sideration the average annual net turnover of the last 10 years, in the case of 6 (30 %) tanneries
it was up to PLN 1 million, while 8 companies (40 %) admitted that it was in the range of PLN 1-
5 million. A revenue structure of 5-10 million PLN was achieved by 2 (10 %) tanneries, while
large profits, exceeding an annual average of 10 million PLN, were indicated by 4 (20 %) of the
companies participating in the study.
When asked about their market position, about 2/3 (65 %) of the tanneries considered them-
selves to be one of the many leather production companies in Poland. The remaining 7 compa-
nies (35 %) position themselves as a leader in the tanning sector on the domestic market. The
vast majority, i.e. 14 (70 %) of the surveyed companies claim that the most important factor
defining their competitiveness is the high quality of the products and/or services they offer (Fig.
4). According to a few (20 %) tanneries, their advantage is mainly determined by the price of
products and/or services. One of the companies indicated an option related to technological
innovation, and one also admitted that it relies on modern product design (5 % of the respond-
ents respectively).
A lot of interesting information was obtained in the answers to an open question, in which
the companies surveyed were asked to identify the most important global business trends in the
tanning industry. To clarify and ensure the correct interpretation of the question, the question-
naire included an explanation that business trends are understood as, among other things, activ-
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Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
ities related to management, brand promotion, and networking. Responses to the question indi-
cated were varied, with broad and precise answers in the case of 3 tanneries:
• 'Western markets and access to them through green certifications (origin of raw materials,
eco-friendly, low-carbon, etc.). First and foremost LWG certification. Promotion of leather to
consumers as a renewable, natural and strength, and therefore ecological material, which is
a recycled waste from the meat industry and an answer to the 'fast-fashion' trend dominated
by oil-based cheap synthetic materials. In addition, automation is an answer to the lack of
skilled labor. Reduction of energy consumption in processing’,
• 'wide-ranging certification of the enterprise and products, modern technologies (also ecolog-
ical), modern machinery, promotion on the world market, cooperation with other companies
of the leather industry in terms of new trends of innovative products',
• 'as of today, the most important business trend is to manage production in the most econom-
ically viable way in order not to lose financial liquidity due to the constantly increasing costs
of services and semi-finished products used in production. Current increases in the chemicals
used in production are up to 70 % by 2021. In such turmoil and stress, it is difficult to find
funds for brand promotion.'
Fig. 4 Determinants of competitiveness in Polish tanneries (Source: Own elaboration)
The majority of respondents to the question on business trends gave a short, slogan-like an-
swer, i.e. 'brand promotion', 'brand promotion, quality, customer acquisition', 'price, product pro-
motion', 'price and quality play the most important role', 'constant contact with customers', 'social
media', 'cooperation with the environment', 'establishing cooperation', 'creation of new products',
'innovation, availability of high-quality products'. One of the tanneries indicated that ‘it is neces-
sary to re-brand, production of wellingtons, corrugated packaging, certainly not diversification of
production'.
3.2 Analysis of issues related to leather production carried out in Polish tanneries
As shown in Fig. 5, the raw materials most frequently processed in Polish tanneries are calfskin
and cowhide. These hides are processed in 17 (85 %) of the 20 companies surveyed. In addition,
tanneries located in Poland also use, but to a lesser extent, sheep, goat, and pig skins (options
indicated by 5 of the tanneries respectively, 25 % each). 2 (10 %) of the enterprises surveyed
chose the answer 'other skins'. These data are in line with European statistics, according to
which tanneries located in this part of the world mainly produce bovine leather, with a share of
more than 80 % [2]. This is because this type of leather can be used to manufacture a wide varie-
ty of products [19].
Continuing on the theme of raw material characteristics, respondents in the next two open
questions were asked to indicate the countries of origin of the skin/hides processed in their tan-
neries (when enterprises source raw material from more than one country, average percentages
had to be added) and to indicate the average number of tonnes of raw material processed per
year. The responses obtained are shown in Table 3. Approximately half (45 %) of the tanneries
surveyed purchase their raw material exclusively in Poland. Skin and hides processed in the
remaining tanneries are sourced from domestic suppliers and imported from both European and
non-European countries. The countries of origin of skin and hides mentioned by the respondents
Current state and production characteristics of the Polish tanning industry: A case study
Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
247
are shown in Fig. 6. The country from which Polish tanneries most often import skins and hides
is Germany. Analysing the responses regarding the average number of tonnes of raw material
processed per year by Polish tanneries, a significant discrepancy was found between the compa-
nies. 5 (25 %) of the 20 tanneries surveyed process less than 100 tons of skin/hides per year,
while 10 (50 %) process between 100 and 1000 tons. 5 (25 %) are producing on a much larger
scale, i.e. processing 20,000 tonnes or more of raw material per year.
Fig. 5 Type of raw material processed in Polish tanneries (Source: Own elaboration)
Table 3 Countries of origin and volume of raw material processed in Polish tanneries (Source: Own elaboration)
Tannery no.
Countries of origin of the skins/hides
Average share (%)
The average number of tonnes of
raw material processed per year
1
Poland
50
350
Greece
15
Bulgaria
15
Ukraine
5
Bangladesh, India, Brazil, Italy, Germany
15
2
Poland
100
150
3
Poland
65-70
20 000
Germany, USA, Canada, other countries
30-35
4
Poland
100
1
5
Poland
40
700
Bulgaria
60
6
Poland
100
180
7
Poland
30
1 000
Germany
30
other countries
40
8
Poland
100
50
9
Iceland
90
9
Germany
10
10
Poland
100
1 700 000
11
Poland
100
100
12
Poland
100
220 000
13
the whole world, from Paraguay to Nepal
100
30
14
Poland
50
3 300 000
Germany
50
15
Poland
80
200
France
20
16
Poland
100
1
17
Finland
30
500
Israel, Greece, France, Serbia, Germany
70
18
Poland
30
115
Slovakia
50
Czech Republic
20
19
Germany
60
30 000
England
20
USA
10
other countries
10
20
Poland
100
300
Bielak, Zakrzewska
248
Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
Fig. 6 Countries from which raw material processed in Polish tanneries is imported
(Source: Own elaboration using mapchart.net)
Most (65 %) of the tanneries surveyed carry out a full 3-stage leather manufacturing process
[20], i.e., they carry out the phase of 1) preparing the skins/hides for tanning (beamhouse), 2)
proper tanning, and 3) finishing. The tanning itself (phase 2) is carried out by 1 (5 %) of the en-
terprises, while 3 (15 %) only carry out the final phase, i.e. finishing the material they previously
acquired in the form of a tanned semi-finished product. One (5 %) of the tanneries is engaged in
preparing the skins/hides for tanning (phase 1) and proper tanning (phase 2), with no further
finishing. Two of the companies purchase skins/hides prepared to receive tanning, known as
pelt, and subject it to tanning (phase 2) and finishing (phase 3).
The tanning method carried out in the 17 tanneries surveyed is shown in Table 4. Tanning
with trivalent chromium (Cr3+) salts is carried out in 13 (65 %) enterprises. This method is
widely used in leather production worldwide, as the most popular tanning method, allowing to
obtain soft leathers, characterised by high strength and good elasticity useful for the production
of, among others, footwear, clothing, furniture, and automotive upholstery [21]. According to
estimates, about 75 % of leather made today, is produced using this tanning method [22]. Eight
(40 %) of the tanneries surveyed use vegetable tannins. This the oldest tanning method makes it
possible to obtain hard and resistant leathers, which are used in the production of shoe soles,
bags, belts, furnishings components [23], or saddlery products such as saddles and harnesses
[24]. As can be seen from Table 4, other tanning methods are also used in tanneries located in
Poland, in addition to the two mentioned. It should be noted that 10 of the tanneries that com-
pleted the survey rely on a one tanning method, 5 tanneries use two tanning methods, while the
remaining 2 enterprises use at least three different types of tanning agents to obtain leather
with specific properties desired by the customer.
In the last question, respondents were asked to indicate the destination of the leather pro-
duced at the tanneries they represent. When completing the questionnaire, the sample types of
goods given (footwear, gallantry, clothing, upholstery, etc.) had to be ranked in descending order
of production volume (from the largest to the smallest share). The majority of the respondents,
i.e. 12 (60 %) of the tanneries indicated that they primarily produce leather for the footwear
industry. This is in line with European statistics, according to which most of the leather supplied
by tanneries located in Europe is used for footwear production [6]. Two enterprises (10 % each,
respectively) produce leather primarily for clothing and gallantry, while 1 (5 %) tannery orient-
ed its production primarily for upholstery leather. Three (15 %) of the 20 companies surveyed
primarily produce leather for uses other than those previously mentioned.
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Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
249
Table 4 Types of tanning method carried out in Polish tanneries (Source: Own elaboration)
Tanning methods
Tannery no.
chrome
vegetable
other
1*
2
x
3
x
x
4
x
5
x
x
6
x
7*
8
x
9
x
10
x
11
x
12*
13
x
14
x
15
x
x
16
x
17
x
x
x
18
x
x
19
x
x
x
20
x
x
Total
13
8
5
*/ Tanneries where the tanning process is not carried out.
4. Discussion
According to the information obtained at the beginning of the study, approximately 220 tanner-
ies have been located in Poland in recent years. As part of the ongoing research, the compiled
database of tanneries was updated. In the process of data collection, it was confirmed that 20
companies with this profile (about 9 %) have been suspended or liquidated, or the enterprises
are in liquidation bankruptcy. Another 130 companies (about 59 %) are likely to be in a similar
situation and have not been contacted via email and/or telephone, despite several attempts.
Additionally, 67 tanneries (about 30 %) confirmed that they are still actively engaged in leather
manufacturing, but 7 of them admitted that they are currently in the process of reducing produc-
tion and phasing out. Two of the 220 companies, which until recently were tanneries, have
changed their business profile. This indicates that the tanning industry in Poland has undergone
a process of deindustrialization in recent years, especially during the COVID-19 pandemic, which
is the answer to research question RQ1.
The characterisation of the production process carried out in Polish tanneries was based on
the example of 20 tanneries that participated in the survey. These enterprises are primarily lo-
cated in villages and small towns (with populations up to 50,000) within the Mazowieckie and
Małopolskie Voivodships. They operate not only domestically but also in Europe, with some in-
dicating a global reach for their activities. The surveyed tanneries are usually micro or small
enterprises with up to 49 employees and annual revenues of up to PLN 5 million net. About 2/3
(65 %) of the companies indicated that they were one of many leather producers in the domestic
market, while the others placed themselves in a leadership role. According to the majority of the
surveyed tanneries, the most important factor defining their competitiveness in the market is
the high quality of the products and services they offer. This answers the research question RQ2.
Polish tanneries are aware of the relevance of global trends related to the industry's trans-
formation towards ecology and sustainability. They point out, among other things, the need to
reduce energy consumption in processing, the introduction of modern, environmentally friendly
production technologies, and the need for certification confirming that their operations are envi-
ronmentally focused. Current business trends for Polish tanneries also include automation of
production and investment in modern machinery. An important aspect is brand promotion in
domestic and global markets, contact with customers, including using social media, and coopera-
tion with the environment. The tanneries point to the need to develop customer-appealing, in-
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novative products, characterized by good quality and affordable prices. This answers the re-
search question RQ3.
Regarding production characteristics, information was obtained that the surveyed Polish tan-
neries process mainly calfskin and cowhides, purchased domestically and/or imported from var-
ious European and non-European countries, in quantities ranging from 1 to as much as 3 300 000
tons per year. In most enterprises, a full 3-stage process of leather manufacturing is carried out,
i.e. preparation of skins/hides for tanning, proper tanning, and finishing. Selected companies
limit production to one or two of these stages. The most common tanning method used in the
surveyed enterprises is chrome tanning; vegetable tanning is used less frequently. Polish tanner-
ies are mainly oriented toward the production of raw material for the footwear industry, and to
a lesser extent for clothing or gallantry. This answers the research question RQ4.
Skins and hides, which are a major by-product of the food industry, will be supplied to mar-
kets as long as meat and dairy products are consumed. The most appropriate management of
them is related to the use of technological processes, thanks to which a natural material is ob-
tained—a raw material with unique properties that cannot be replaced by any synthetic substi-
tute [25]. Given this, as well as because of the current situation of the Polish tanning industry, it
is necessary to take measures to improve the condition of this sector of the economy.
According to the authors, entrepreneurs in the tanning industry in Poland should consciously
analyse and adapt to the most important global trends in the sector, which, according to the sur-
vey results, are well known to them. To increase the competitiveness of the Polish tanning in-
dustry, action should be taken aimed at improving production processes in tanneries, with the
transformation of the industry towards more ecological and sustainable production. The focus
should be on eco-friendly tanning methods, recycling of waste and used leather goods, and thus
minimizing the negative environmental impact. What is more, it is necessary to track and adapt
new technologies, consumer patterns, and changes in their preferences. Action should focus on
finding alternative sources of skins and hides obtaining and manufacturing leather with new
and/or better properties to increase the flexibility and diversity of offerings.
The state and characteristics of the Polish tanning industry, as presented in the article, are
issues that have not been subjected to wider analysis and studies by researchers for years. This
undoubtedly demonstrates the existing research gap in this area. Thus, the scientific research
designed and carried out made it possible to obtain up-to-date knowledge regarding the situa-
tion of this important branch of the national industry, the directions of its changes and the most
important problem, which is the progressive deindustrialization of the industry. Similar topics
have also not been addressed in the current literature with regard to other European and non-
European countries. Therefore, the studies presented in the article may inspire to perform simi-
lar analyses with regard to other countries. Based on such studies, it would be possible to draw
broader conclusions and assess the situation of the European and global tanning industry, point
out the challenges and problems it faces, and propose concrete solutions to them.
5. Research recommendations and limitations
Further research into the structural changes and needs of the Polish tanning industry in the con-
text of the deindustrialization process is recommended. The research should include an analysis
of the causes and consequences of this transformation and the search for new development op-
portunities in this sector. In addition, the authors also suggest research into the development of
leather manufacturing technologies in a more environmentally friendly direction to create sus-
tainable products with better properties and higher quality. An example is the research that has
been carried out for several years, also in Poland, on the use of natural biocides - essential oils in
the production of leather for the internal parts of footwear, to obtain raw material with antimi-
crobial properties [26, 27]. In the context of the development of the tanning industry, not only in
Poland, but around the world, it would also be worth noting the possibility of applying machine
learning solutions. Support in this regard could contribute, among other things, to increasing
production efficiency, reducing costs, improving product quality and reducing the negative im-
pact of the industry in question on the environment. The application of machine learning in
Current state and production characteristics of the Polish tanning industry: A case study
Advances in Production Engineering & Management 19(2) 2024
251
manufacturing processes and beyond is a topical and frequently addressed issue in publications
that have appeared in recent years [28-29].
When planning further research, the limitations encountered by the article's authors should
be borne in mind. Conducting survey research may face various constraints, both general and
specific to the research topic. Limitations when conducting survey research to assess the current
state of the tanning industry in Poland and characteristics of the production process include
several aspects:
• For survey results to be reliable, the sample should be representative of the entire popula-
tion surveyed. In the case of a survey on the state of the tanning industry, difficulties may
arise, for example, from not having access to a complete list of all companies in the sector.
• Another limitation proves to be the low response rate to the survey and the low involve-
ment of respondents. This may affect the representativeness of the sample and the relia-
bility of the results. Some information about the tanning industry in Poland may be confi-
dential or protected by law, which may make it difficult to collect a complete picture.
• It is also worth bearing in mind the subjectivity of responses. Respondents may have opin-
ions on the state of the tanning industry that may be formed by their own experiences or
prejudices. This can result in the introduction of errors or distortion of results.
To effectively carry out further research in the area of the Polish tanning industry, it is rec-
ommended to increase the motivation of respondents. In addition, the authors of the study rec-
ommend making study visits to tanneries and conducting in-depth interviews with tannery en-
trepreneurs.
Acknowledgement
The authors thank:
• Joanna Jaśkiewicz, the Polish Chamber of Shoe and Leather Industry Office Manager, for her assistance in com-
piling the database of tanneries and distributing the survey questionnaire;
• Łucja Romańska, a student at the Krakow University of Economics, for her assistance in conducting the tele-
phone interview;
• the Tanneries that expressed interest in the research being conducted and supported its implementation by
completing the survey questionnaire.
Funding
The authors thank:
• The publication presents the result of the Project no 095/ZJB/2023/DOS financed from the subsidy granted to
the Krakow University of Economics.
• The publication was co-financed/financed from the subsidy granted to the Krakow University of Economics -
Project nr 030/ZZP/2024/PRO.
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