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MICH, Anna, CIESIELSKI, Radosław, PERKOWSKA, Klaudia, KAŹMIERCZAK, Anna, IZDEBSKA, Wiktoria, SORNEK,
Patrycja, BORKOWSKA, Agata, KIEŁB, Anna, PAWLAK, Igor and STANEK, Jakub. Dermocosmetics in the management of Acne
Vulgaris. Quality in Sport. 2024;24:54734. eISSN 2450-3118.
https://dx.doi.org/10.12775/QS.2024.24.54734
https://apcz.umk.pl/QS/article/view/54734
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Received: 29.08.2024. Revised: 25.09.2024. Accepted: 06.10.2024. Published: 10.10.2024.
1
DERMOCOSMETICS IN THE MANAGEMENT OF ACNE VULGARIS
Anna Mich
Samodzielny Publiczny Zespół Opieki Zdrowotnej w Mińsku Mazowieckim, ul.
Szpitalna 37, 05-
300 Mińsk Mazowiecki
E-mail: aniamich97@icloud.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0004-6299-5506
Independent Public Hospital in Mińsk Mazowiecki, ul. Szpitalna 37, 05-300 Mińsk
Mazowiecki
Radosław Ciesielski
Samodzielny Publiczny Zespół Opieki Zdrowotnej w Mińsku Mazowieckim, ul.
Szpitalna 37, 05-
300 Mińsk Mazowiecki
E-mail: radoslaw.ciesielski@yahoo.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3458-2024
Independent Public Hospital in Mińsk Mazowiecki, ul. Szpitalna 37, 05-300 Mińsk
Mazowiecki
Klaudia Perkowska
Wojskowy Instytut Medyczny, ul. Szaserów 128, 04-349 Warszawa
E-mail: dr.kperkowska@gmail.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0001-7362-4995
Military Medical Institute, Szaserów 128, 04-349 Warsaw, PL
2
Anna Kaźmierczak
4. Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny z Polikliniką SP ZOZ
E-mail: a.kazmierczak.1998@o2.pl
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0000-8435-6685
4th Military Clinical Hospital in Wroclaw, Weigla 5, 53-114 Wroclaw, PL
Wiktoria Izdebska
Wojewódzki Szpital Specjalistyczny im. J. Gromkowskiego, ul. Koszarowa 5, 51-149
Wrocław
E-mail: wiktoriaxizdebska@gmail.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0005-0242-141X
J. Gromkowski Regional Specialist Hospital in Wrocław, Koszarowa 5, 51-149
Wrocław, PL
Patrycja Sornek
Uniwersytecki Szpital Kliniczny im. Wojskowej Akademii Medycznej, ul. Stefana
Żeromskiego 113, 90-549 Łódź
E-mail: sornekpatrycja5@gmail.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0003-9630-055X
Military Medical Academy Memorial Teaching Hospital- Central Veteran Hospital ul.
Stefana Żeromskiego 113, 90-549 Lodz, Poland
Agata Borkowska
Wojskowy Instytut Medycyny Lotniczej, ul.
Zygmunta Krasińskiego 54/56, 01-755 Warszawa
E-mail: agata.borkowska.ab@wp.pl
Orcid: https://orcid.org/0009-0008-7347-7762
Military Institute of Aviation Medicine, ul. Zygmunta Krasińskiego 54/56, 01-755
Warsaw, PL
Anna Kiełb
5. Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny z Polikliniką SPZOZ w Krakowie, ul. Wrocławska 1-3,
30-901
Kraków
E-mail: akielb97@gmail.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0005-3152-5429
5th Military Clinical Hospital in Krakow, ul. Wrocławska 1-3, 30-901 Krakow, Poland
Igor Pawlak
Samodzielny Publiczny Zespół Opieki Zdrowotnej w Mińsku Mazowieckim, ul.
Szpitalna 37, 05-
300 Mińsk Mazowiecki
E-mail: igor.a.pawlak@gmail.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0003-1942-9296
Independent Public Hospital in Mińsk Mazowiecki, ul. Szpitalna 37, 05-300 Mińsk
Mazowiecki
3
Jakub Stanek
Uniwersytet Medyczny w Łodzi, al. Tadeusza Kościuszki 4, 90-419 Łódź
E-mail: jakubstanek22@gmail.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9450-7261
Medical University of Lodz, al. Tadeusza Kościuszki 4, 90-419 Łódź
Corresponding author: Anna Mich
Independent Public Hospital in Mińsk Mazowiecki, ul. Szpitalna 37, 05-300 Mińsk
Mazowiecki +48 518921107, aniamich97@icloud.com
Abstract
Introduction:
Treating acne vulgaris remains a significant challenge for dermatologists.
Dermocosmetics are becoming an important component of acne management. The active
ingredients in dermocosmetics help support dermatological treatments, while gentle
formulations help maintain the skin's lipid barrier, reduce transepidermal water loss, and
minimize the risk of irritation. Our objective was to review the active ingredients and various
preparations used in dermocosmetics for acne, and to emphasize the clinical evidence
supporting their effectiveness.
Aim of study:
The aim of the study is to summarize the available knowledge about the active
ingredients used in acne management. The epidemiology, etiology, of acne and and methods of
treatment were summarized and described.
Materials and methods:
The literature available in PubMed database was reviewed using following keywords:
“Acne vulgaris”, “Dermocosmetics”.
Conclusion:
Dermocosmetics are essential in managing acne, either as maintenance therapy or as a
complement to pharmacological treatments. They contain various active ingredients and
formulations that address critical acne pathways, including inflammation, abnormal
keratinization, excessive sebum production, and C. acnes colonization. Furthermore,
dermocosmetics help alleviate the side effects of dermatological treatments, such as
compromised skin barriers, increased transepidermal water loss and irritation.
Key words: Acne Vulgaris; Dermocosmetics, active ingredients in dermocosmetics for acne
Introduction
Definition
Acne is a condition affecting the pilosebaceous unit, which consists of hair follicles
connected to oil glands in the skin. Clinically, acne presents with excess oil production
(seborrhoea), noninflammatory lesions (open and closed comedones), inflammatory lesions
(papules and pustules), and varying degrees of scarring [1, 2]. It typically appears in areas with
a high density of pilosebaceous units, such as the face, neck, upper chest, shoulders, and back.
4
Severe acne includes nodules and cysts, known as nodulocystic acne [3, 4]. Acne adversely
impacts various aspects of health-related quality of life (HRQoL) for both adolescents and
adults. It affects emotional and social functioning, relationships, leisure and daily activities,
sleep, and performance at school or work [5].
Disease mechanisms
Four key processes contribute significantly to the formation of acne lesions: changes in
the keratinisation process resulting in comedones; increased and modified sebum production
influenced by androgens (or heightened sensitivity of androgen receptors); the release of
inflammatory mediators into the skin; and the colonization of hair follicles by P. acnes [6]. The
precise sequence of these events and their interactions with other factors are still not fully
understood. Increasing evidence suggests that individuals with acne do not have a higher
quantity of C. acnes in their follicles compared to those without acne, but they do have different
strains of the bacteria. This has led to the hypothesis that acne may result from an imbalance in
the C. acnes phylotypes within the skin microbiota, particularly the relative increase of the acne-
associated phylotype IA1. In general, the loss of skin microbial diversity along with the
activation of innate immunity are believed to be key factors driving this chronic inflammatory
condition [7,8].
Epidemiology
The risk factors and genes related to acne prognosis and treatment remain uncertain.
Twin studies have highlighted the significant role of genetic factors in severe, scarring acne. A
study of 1002 Iranian 16-year-olds [9] found that having a family history of acne doubled the
risk of developing significant acne and a large study of Chinese [10] undergraduates reported a
78% heritability rate of acne among first-degree relatives of those affected. Acne tends to
appear earlier in girls, though more boys are affected during mid-adolescence [11]. Black
children may develop acne at a younger age and it is often more comedonal compared to white
children, likely due to earlier puberty onset [12].
Causes
Earlier observational studies indicated an inverse relationship between smoking and
acne, more recent research shows that severe acne increases with smoking [13]. Increased
insulin resistance and high serum dehydroepiandrosterone may explain acne in polycystic ovary
syndrome [14]. Acne can worsen due to the occlusion of the skin surface with greasy products
(pomade acne), clothing, and sweating. Certain drugs, such as anti-epileptics, typically cause
monomorphic acne, and acneiform eruptions have been linked to anti-cancer drugs like gefitinib
[15]. The use of anabolic steroids to increase muscle mass, which might be underestimated, can
lead to severe acne forms [16]. Diet, sunlight, and skin hygiene have all been considered factors
in acne [17]. One systematic review suggested that dairy products, especially milk, increase
acne risk, though the included observational studies had significant limitations [18]. Previous
studies that involved giving young people large amounts of chocolate to provoke acne were too
small and too brief to draw definitive conclusions. A randomized controlled trial indicated that
a low glycaemic load diet might improve acne, providing preliminary support for this theory
[19]. Symptoms
Acne causes physical symptoms such as soreness, itching, and pain, but its primary
impact is on quality of life. Psychological issues are significant and are exacerbated by several
factors: acne affects visible skin, a crucial aspect of social interaction; societal and cultural
pressures demand flawless skin; healthcare professionals often dismiss acne as a minor, self-
limiting condition; and acne typically peaks during teenage years, a critical period for
developing confidence and selfesteem [20]. In the UK, teenagers with acne were twice as likely
to score in the borderline or abnormal range on an age-appropriate emotional wellbeing
5
questionnaire compared to those without acne, and they exhibited higher levels of behavioral
difficulties [21]. A case-control study found that the presence of acne was associated with
unemployment among young men and women [22]. However, a community study of 14- to 17-
year-old Australian students found no link between acne and later psychological or psychiatric
issues, a surprising result that may be due to effective treatments or personality traits [23].
Acne exposome factors
The acne exposome refers to the totality of environmental factors that affect the
occurrence, duration, and severity of acne. These factors influence treatment response and
relapse frequency by interacting with the skin barrier, sebaceous glands, innate immunity, and
skin microbiota [24, 25]. The main categories of these factors are nutrition, medication,
occupational factors (including cosmetics), pollutants, climatic factors, and psychological and
lifestyle factors [26]. Currently, the primary food groups believed to potentially trigger acne
include dairy products, especially skim milk, and high-glycaemic carbohydrates [27].
Nutritional supplements like whey proteins containing leucine, commonly used by athletes,
might also provoke or exacerbate acne [28]. Evidence suggests that certain oral contraceptives,
particularly first- and second-generation ones, can lead to metabolites of testosterone that
worsen acne, especially in adolescent and adult females.
However, oral contraceptive pills containing chlormadinone acetate, dienogest,
drospirenone, and norgestimate have been noted to have beneficial effects in acne treatment
[29]. Anabolic steroids trigger acne by targeting androgen receptors on sebocytes and
keratinocytes [30]. Various substances such as corticosteroids, halogens, isoniazid, lithium,
vitamin B12, immunosuppressants, certain anti-cancer agents, and radiotherapy have been
reported to cause acneiform eruptions [31]. Aggressive skincare routines and inappropriate
cosmetics can exacerbate acne by altering the skin barrier and the balance of skin microbiota,
particularly in the sebaceous areas, thereby activating innate immunity and causing
inflammation. Mechanical factors such as rubbing, scrubbing, and the use of home or medical
devices like sonic brushes, dermarollers, or microneedling systems can also trigger acne flare-
ups [32]. Air pollutants can harm the skin by increasing oxidative stress, leading to significant
disruptions in lipid, DNA, and/ or protein functions in the skin [33]. Tobacco and cannabis
consumption may also contribute to acne as they act as pollutants that affect human health.
Climatic conditions and seasonal changes, particularly combinations of heat, humidity, and
intense UV radiation, may induce inflammatory acne flare-ups, a phenomenon known as acne
tropicana, acne majorca, or tropical acne [34].
Dermocosmetics
Dermocosmetics are skincare products formulated with advanced, dermatologically
active ingredients designed to directly address or alleviate symptoms of various skin conditions,
beyond what a simple base product could achieve [35]. In the article "Dermocosmetics in
dermatological practice. Recommendation of the Polish Dermatological Society part1.”
Barbara Zegarska, Lidia Rudnicka, et al. explain the differences between cosmetics and
dermocosmetics. They note that historically, topical products for skin application were divided
into cosmetics and drugs, according to the American definition adopted in the Federal Food,
Drug, and Cosmetic Act of 1938. Cosmetics were defined as substances intended for "cleansing,
caring for, beautifying, and improving the appearance of the skin." In contrast, drugs were
defined as "articles intended to affect the structure or any function of the body or articles
intended for use in diagnosing, treating, mitigating, curing, or preventing disease in humans”.
Another significant difference is that cosmetics do not require approval before being marketed.
Regulations only specify the list of substances that can be used in cosmetics and their
concentrations. On the other hand, to market a drug, its efficacy and safety must be proven
through numerous clinical trials [36]. Dermocosmetics occupy an ambiguous area between
6
cosmetics and drugs. These products are designed with active ingredients intended to provide
beneficial physiological effects through enhanced pharmacological action, but from a legal
standpoint, they remain cosmetics [37]. The active cosmetic ingredients influence [38] these
four pathogenic pathways: changes in the keratinisation process resulting in comedones;
increased and modified sebum production influenced by androgens; the release of inflammatory
mediators into the skin; and the colonization of hair follicles by P. acnes [6]. Increased and
altered sebum production is a major factor in the development of acne, but only a few topical
products have been proven to effectively target this abnormal sebum production [39]. Currently,
masks and day creams that work on the skin's surface are used to absorb skin-surface lipids and
reduce the appearance of oiliness [40]. Several active ingredients in dermocosmetics have
demonstrated sebo-suppressive properties, and there is a growing interest in the use of topical
antioxidants. Additionally, topical niacinamide has been shown to increase desquamation and
potentially reduce sebum production. A study by Biedermann et al. [41] found that topical
niacinamide had a dose-dependent sebosuppressive effect in a cell culture of human sebocytes.
Niacinamide is also known to target inflammation. In individuals prone to acne, excess keratin
causes dead skin cells to clog the hair follicle, leading to blocked pilosebaceous glands and the
formation of microcomedones. It is now believed that inflammation precedes ductal
hyperkeratinization, which may be caused by an increased rate of keratinocyte proliferation,
reduced separation of ductal corneocytes, and increased cohesion between keratinocytes [1].
This theory supports the use of acidic formulations, such as acid peels, in acne scar therapy.
Alpha hydroxy acids
AHAs thin the stratum corneum, increase epidermal thickness, disperse basal layer
melanin, and boost collagen synthesis within the dermis [42]. Glycolic acid peels, the most
common type of AHA peel, target corneosomes by reducing their cohesiveness, promoting their
breakdown, and causing desquamation [43]. Low concentrations of AHAs (5-10%) act on the
skin's superficial layers by enhancing the healing response through subcorneal epidermolysis,
opening comedones, and unroofing pustules. Consequently, many dermatologists believe that
products containing AHAs should not be classified as cosmetics [44]. However, various studies
have demonstrated the safety and efficacy of preparations combining glycolic acid and
retinaldehyde (a form of vitamin A) in treating acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
[45]. Furthermore, a recent trial showed that 10% glycolic acid monotherapy significantly
improved mild acne compared to a placebo after 90 days of treatment [46].
Nicotinamide
Nicotinamide, also known as niacinamide, is a form of vitamin B3, an essential water-
soluble nutrient found in various foods [47]. Topically applied nicotinamide not only has
sebostatic effects but is also an effective anti-inflammatory agent. Several double-blind studies
comparing nicotinamide gel to clindamycin gel in acne patients have demonstrated that
nicotinamide significantly reduces inflammatory papules and acne lesions, showing
comparable results to clindamycin gel [48,49]. Nicotinamide may also be effective in
combination treatments to reduce inflammation. A pilot study using skin biopsies from 16
patients found that a combination of nicotinamide, retinol, and 7-dehydrocholesterol had an
anti-inflammatory effect, lowering levels of pro-inflammatory molecules associated with acne
[50]. Nicotinamide offers potent antiinflammatory properties without the risk of bacterial
resistance or systemic side effects, making it a promising treatment option for acne vulgaris.
Zinc
Zinc, a divalent cation, is an essential micronutrient necessary for various bodily
processes. It has been found to play a role in several skin disorders, including acne vulgaris.
The benefit of zinc for acne was first identified in the 1970s when Fitzherbert (1977) observed
improvements in acne among zinc-deficient patients with acrodermatitis enteropathica.
7
Subsequent research found that individuals with acne had significantly lower zinc levels
compared to controls [51]. A small in vitro study investigated zinc's mechanism on
inflammatory acne lesions and discovered that zinc possesses strong anti-inflammatory
properties by inhibiting leukocyte chemotaxis [52]. Additionally, a recent in vitro study on zinc
calx, a mineral used in traditional medicine, demonstrated an inhibitory effect on both P. acnes
growth and P. acnes-induced IL-8 and TNFα signaling in a monocyte cell line [53]. Further in
vitro and in vivo studies have shown that zinc affects various pro-inflammatory signaling
pathways involved in acne and comedo formation [54]. These preliminary findings suggest that
further research into the anti-inflammatory effects of topical zinc is warranted.
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring, plant-derived saturated dicarboxylic acid that has
shown effectiveness both as a standalone treatment and in combination therapies for rosacea,
acne vulgaris (both inflammatory and comedonal), and various hyperpigmentation disorders
such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation [55]. Azelaic acid possesses
antibacterial and antiinflammatory properties, inhibiting mitochondrial metabolism and
microbial protein synthesis, thereby exhibiting antimicrobial activity [56]. While a 20%
concentration has been used for treating acne, it has mostly been replaced by a 15%
concentration due to its lower irritancy. In two randomized controlled trials, azelaic acid was
found to be more effective than a placebo, especially for treating the inflammatory aspects of
acne [57].
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid has an anti-inflammatory mechanism in acne treatment. Shao et al. [58]
reported that supramolecular salicylic acid treatment increased the expression of caveolin-1 and
decreased the expression of interleukin IL-1a, IL-6, IL-17, transforming growth factor beta, and
toll-like receptor 2 in skin tissue after supramolecular SA treatment. Additionally, Klebeko et
al. found that salicylic acid could inhibit the production of the proinflammatory cytokine IL-6
in LPSstimulated keratinocytes and suggested that novel salicylic acid agents could be used for
chronic skin diseases, including acne vulgaris. Recent studies have also indicated that salicylic
acid affects keratinocytes and sebocytes, which are involved in acne pathogenesis [58, 59].
Furthermore, in a crossover study, 30 patients using a 2% salicylic acid cleanser for two weeks
showed significant improvement in their acne, evidenced by a reduction in comedones.
However, their acne worsened during the subsequent use of a benzoyl peroxide (BPO) wash, a
commonly used first-line bactericidal treatment [60, 61].
Retinoids
Topical corneolytics, such as retinaldehyde and retinol found in low concentrations in a
wide variety of over-the-counter formulations, have comedolytic and skin-lightening effects.
These can help facilitate skin absorption of topical medications enhancing patient satisfaction
[62, 63]. According to El-Samahy et al. [64] in the article, namely the effect of topical
application of nano retinol on mild to moderate acne vulgaris stated that topical retinol
preparations have a mechanism of action able to reduce the number of acnes on facial skin
caused by Propionibacterium acne (P. acne) bacteria by inhibiting excess oil production (micro
blackheads) and able to disguise acne lesions. In the study The Antibacterial Activity of Topical
Retinoids: The Case of Retinaldehyde M. Pechere et al. have showed that RAL demonstrated
notable antibacterial activity against grampositive bacteria. The minimum inhibitory
concentration (MIC) was 4 mg/l for Staphylococcus aureus, Micrococcus flavus, and P. acnes
CIP179 [65].
Antioxidants
Antioxidants are increasingly significant in acne treatment [36]. For example,
epigallocatechin-3gallate (EGCG) has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties by
8
suppressing the NF-κB and activator protein 1 (AP-1) pathways and helps control sebum
production [66]. This makes EGCG a promising therapeutic option for acne [66]. Similarly,
fullerene is another antioxidant potentially useful in dermocosmetics. Using fullerene gel twice
daily for eight weeks reduced the number of pustules in acne patients, and in vitro studies
showed it inhibits sebum production and reduces neutrophil infiltration [67]. Ascorbic acid, or
vitamin C, is a well-known antioxidant with antiinflammatory effects. It prevents sebum
oxidation, thereby reducing inflammation and follicular keratinization. Research indicates that
vitamin C can reduce UVAinduced sebum oxidation by up to 40% [68].
Protection of the skin barrier
Maintaining the lipid barrier at an appropriate level and decreasing TEWL is an
important mechanism whereby dermocosmetics can improve acne management. Dysfunction
of the epidermal barrier can be a feature of the disease and can also occur as a result of acne
treatments, including over the counter (OTC) products, ethical prescription products, and
procedures such as peeling [69]. Clinically, barrier dysfunction manifests as dry skin, irritation
in the form of stinging/burning/ tingling, tightness, pain, or irritant dermatitis [69]. These are
thought to be related to TEWL and can be at least partially relieved with use of moisturizers
[69, 70]. As early as 1995, Yamamoto et al. [71] demonstrated that Japanese acne patients had
increased TEWL compared with control subjects. The differences were significant even in
patients with mild and moderate acne. These patients also had lower levels of ceramides, which
correlated with water barrier function. The authors speculated that the decreased ceramides may
contribute to hyperkeratotic barrier dysfunction and formation of comedones [71].
Cleansers
Acne can worsen with aggressive cleansing or using a cleanser with an unsuitable pH.
A dermocosmetic cleanser with a pH similar to that of normal skin is less irritating and may
improve patient adherence to treatment [36]. Alkaline soaps raise the skin's surface pH,
potentially impairing the skin barrier's repair mechanisms [72, 73] and causing irritation [74].
They can also alter the skin surface and increase transepidermal water loss [73]. Compared to
acidic syndet bars, soap can cause peeling, dryness, and burning [75,76]. One study evaluated
the degreasing effect and skin tolerability of a botanical face cleanser containing hops, willow
bark extract, and disodium cocoyl glutamate, a mild cleansing agent, against a standard cleanser
with sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) [77]. Both cleansers were used by 21 healthy volunteers
with normal to oily skin, applied twice daily for 15 days in a split-face manner. The botanical
cleanser significantly reduced sebum levels [77] and maintained a degreasing effect even after
a 48-hour treatment break, whereas the SLES cleanser saw an increase in sebum levels.
Although neither cleanser caused skin irritation, those without SLES may be more suitable for
sensitive skin [77].
Moisturizers
Ceramide-containing moisturizers should be considered for acne dermocosmetics.
When the skin barrier function is compromised, there is a reduction in skin surface ceramides,
leading to increased transepidermal water loss. Applying moisturizers with ceramides can help
improve skin dryness and irritation [78]. This, in turn, may enhance adherence to existing
treatment regimens by alleviating the symptoms and side effects, such as skin dryness and
irritation, that often lead to nonadherence [78]. Draelos reported that non-comedogenic, non-
acnegenic moisturizer selection is important to counteract the drying effect of some acne
medications [79]. Topical emollient compounds can help reduce skin irritation by enhancing
the stratum corneum barrier function. In an open-label, randomized study involving 30 patients
receiving either oral isotretinoin or topical tretinoin, a simple emollient cream used as an
adjunctive treatment significantly improved skin dryness, roughness, and desquamation [80].
9
UV exposure
UVA and UVB rays affect acne differently. UVA rays, specifically UVA1 and blue light
(400nm) may have anti-inflammatory effects [81]. In contrast, UVB rays cause inflammation,
and increase sebum production and proliferation of keratinocytes [82,83]. Patients should be
aware that not using UV protection on their skin during the summer may not help their acne
and could actually worsen the condition in the following months [84]. A prospective open-label
study on acne patients undergoing various treatments found that daily use of a cleanser and SPF
30 sunscreen improved skin tolerability, reduced transepidermal water loss, and helped patients
maintain consistent application of their therapies [85]. Another study demonstrated that using
a sunscreen containing anti-inflammatory agents reduced inflammatory facial acne lesions
within two weeks [86]. The need for UV protection is increased in patients with acne as the
skin barrier integrity is reduced leading to increased photosensitivity, which may be
exacerbated by treatments such as BPO or retinoids [87, 88].
Make up
Corrective makeup is designed to conceal disfiguring skin lesions and enhance the skin's
appearance. It can correct pigmentation issues, control oil, moisturize, protect against UV light,
enhance the absorption of acne treatments, strengthen the skin barrier, and boost personal
wellbeing [89,90]. An ideal acne camouflage should have a natural appearance, be nongreasy,
noncomedogenic, and can be easily applied. The preferred product is largely determined by
patient preference, market availability, the range of available shades, and the presence of
specific ingredients [91]. Some products might include botanical agents with natural beta-
hydroxy acids reputed for their anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, or vitamins
(like Vitamin E) that may serve as antioxidants [92]. In the conducted study Monfrecola et al.
reported that one hundred percent of patients reported satisfaction with a face compact cream
(FCC) containing selective photofilters, Salix alba, 1,2-decanediol, soy isoflavones, and
vitamins B3, C, and E, after applying it once daily for 28 days. Additionally, 80% of the patients
observed an improvement in their skin. The application of the FCC significantly reduced the
number of comedones by 16% from baseline to Day 28 (p < .001). The cream was well-
tolerated, with no skin reactions such as erythema, edema, dryness, desquamation, tightness,
itching, or burning reported at any time points (Days 0, 14, and 28) [93].
Conclusion
Dermocosmetics play a vital role in acne management, serving as maintenance therapy
or complementing pharmacological treatment. Various active ingredients and formulas can
target key acne pathways, including inflammation, abnormal keratinization, excessive sebum
production, and C. acnes colonization. Additionally, dermocosmetics aid in mitigating the side
effects of dermatological treatments, such as compromised skin barrier, increased
transepidermal water loss, and irritation. Dermocosmetics have been linked to excellent patient
adherence and high levels of satisfaction. Consciously incorporating them into dermatological
treatment under the supervision of a dermatologist allows for achieving satisfactory results of
therapy. Newly emerging dermocosmetics on the market require proper research and informed
selection in dermatological treatment.
Supplementary materials Not applicable.
Autor’s contribution:
Conceptualization, Anna Mich and Radosław Ciesielski, methodology, Klaudia
Perkowska, software, Igor Pawlak; check, Anna Kaźmierczak; formal analysis, Wiktoria
Izdebska, investigation, Patrycja Sornek; resources, Agata Borkowska; data curation, Anna
10
Kiełb; writing - rough preparation, Jakub Stanek; writing - review and editing, Anna Mich and
Radosław
Ciesielski.
All authors have read and agreed with the published version of the manuscript.
Funding Statement
Study did not receive special funding. Institutional
Review Board Statement Not applicable.
Informed Consent Statement
Not applicable
Acknowledgements
Not applicable.
Conflict of Interest Statement
The authors of the paper report no conflicts of interest.
Data Availability Statement
The data presented in this study are available upon request from the correspondent
author.
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