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Role of Actives in Emollients in Atopic Dermatitis

Authors:

Abstract

The prevalence of atopic dermatitis (AD) in India is 2.7% (age 6–7 years) and 3.6% (age 13–14 years). Emollients remain mainstay treatment for atopic dermatitis. The present review article focuses on the role of active ingredients in emollients towards the management of AD. Article were selected by searching in database like Google Scholar and PubMed and were reviewed by the authors. Daily use of emollients from birth may significantly reduce the incidence of AD in a high-risk population. Emollients with a variety of active ingredients to target AD pathophysiology have been developed which contain active ingredients like liquorice extract (anti-inflammatory and anti-pruritic), niacinamide (restoration of barrier function), sterols (restoration of barrier function), laureth-9-polydocanol (anti-pruritic), xylitol (microbiome maintenance) and galacto-oligosaccharide (GOS) (microbiome maintenance). Emollient plus may be a useful adjunct to pharmacological therapy in AD and as maintenance therapy, providing rapid and significant improvements in skin moisture, epidermal barrier function, and signs and symptoms of AD.
Chandrashekar BS, Luger T, Rajendran SC, Parathasaradhi A, Thomas J, Ganjoo A, Sharma
D, Damishetty R, Ruby N, Sujay V, Sriram S, Udare S, Shah D, Rajgopal J. Role of Actives in
Emollients in Atopic Dermatitis. J Dermatol & Skin Sci. 2024;6(1):16-23
Review Article Open Access
Page 16 of 23
Role of Actives in Emollients in Atopic Dermatitis
B. S. Chandrashekar1, Thomas Luger2, S. C. Rajendran3, Anchala Parathasaradhi4, Jayakar Thomas5,
Anil Ganjoo6, Divya Sharma7, Rajetha Damishetty8, Nazima Ruby9, Vijayalakshmi Sujay10, Snehal Sriram11,
Satish Udare12, Dhara Shah13, Jayesh Rajgopal*14
1Chief Dermatologist / Medical Director: Cutis, Academy of Cutaneous Sciences, Bengaluru
2Department of Dermatology, University of Muenster, Muenster, Germany
3Director and Senior Consultant Dermatologist at Cosmetic Skin Care Clinic, Koramangala, Bengaluru
4Senior Consultant Dermatologist at Anchala’s Skin Institute, Hyderabad
5Professor & Head, Chettinad Hospital and Research Institute, Chennai
6Director, Skinnovation Clinics, New Delhi
7Chief Consultant at Dr Divya’s Skin and Hair Solutions, Bangalore
8Additional Medical director, Oliva chain of 23 Hair and Skin Clinics
9Consultant Dermatologist, Radiant Skin Clinic, Bengaluru
10Consultant Dermatologist and Cosmetologist, Shree Skin and Cosmetic Clinic, Bengaluru
11Consultant and Head of Cosmetic Dermatology Department at Nahar Medical Center, Mumbai
12Medical Director of ‘Sparkle’ Skin and Aesthetic Centre, Vashi and ‘Disha Skin and Laser Institute’ Thane, Mumbai
13Head Medical Affairs, Mylan Pharmaceuticals Private Limited - A Viatris Company
14Senior Medical Manager, Mylan Pharmaceuticals Private Limited - A Viatris Company
Article Info
Article Notes
Received: April 15, 2024
Accepted: May 30, 2024
*Correspondence:
* Dr. Jayesh Rajgopal, Mylan Pharmaceuticals Private Limited -
A Viatris Company, Bengaluru, India; Orcid Id: 0009-0003-4251-
1394; Tel: (+91) 99771 38848;
Email: jayesh.rajgopal@viatris.com.
©2024 Rajgopal J. This article is distributed under the terms of
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Keywords:
Atopic dermatitis
Emollients
Anti-inammatory
Atopic eczema
Emollient plus
Abstract
The prevalence of atopic dermas (AD) in India is 2.7% (age 6–7 years)
and 3.6% (age 13–14 years). Emollients remain mainstay treatment for atopic
dermas. The present review arcle focuses on the role of acve ingredients
in emollients towards the management of AD. Arcle were selected by
searching in database like Google Scholar and PubMed and were reviewed
by the authors. Daily use of emollients from birth may signicantly reduce
the incidence of AD in a high-risk populaon. Emollients with a variety of
acve ingredients to target AD pathophysiology have been developed which
contain acve ingredients like liquorice extract (an-inammatory and an-
pruric), niacinamide (restoraon of barrier funcon), sterols (restoraon of
barrier funcon), laureth-9-polydocanol (an-pruric), xylitol (microbiome
maintenance) and galacto-oligosaccharide (GOS) (microbiome maintenance).
Emollient plus may be a useful adjunct to pharmacological therapy in AD and
as maintenance therapy, providing rapid and signicant improvements in skin
moisture, epidermal barrier funcon, and signs and symptoms of AD.
Introduction
Atopic dermatitis (AD) also known as atopic eczema (AE), is
        
1 It is characterized
    1, and intense itch 1 and is often
    2 It
3 and
1 
    
       As per the
      

    5      


 
        
Chandrashekar BS, Luger T, Rajendran SC, Parathasaradhi A, Thomas J, Ganjoo A, Sharma
D, Damishetty R, Ruby N, Sujay V, Sriram S, Udare S, Shah D, Rajgopal J. Role of Actives in
Emollients in Atopic Dermatitis. J Dermatol & Skin Sci. 2024;6(1):16-23
Journal of Dermatology and Skin Science
Page 17 of 23
      
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     
        

with mild to moderate AD11


Methods
The relevant articles were searched on databases
       

     
  

  

New Pathogenic Concepts of AD
    
      12
       
  
    
 
       
       
   
     15 This

      
  


lesions in atopic dermatitis which are (i) an imbalance of
      
18   
           

     
      
Figure 1: Mechanism of atopic dermas
Chandrashekar BS, Luger T, Rajendran SC, Parathasaradhi A, Thomas J, Ganjoo A, Sharma
D, Damishetty R, Ruby N, Sujay V, Sriram S, Udare S, Shah D, Rajgopal J. Role of Actives in
Emollients in Atopic Dermatitis. J Dermatol & Skin Sci. 2024;6(1):16-23
Journal of Dermatology and Skin Science
Page 18 of 23
         
   18 A defective
       

        
18
      
 
      
      20
     
 
         
21      

     
22
      
      
        
23
Preventive Strategies and General Measures
    
         


       
      
          
     

     
    
    
 

  
2
       
       
       
       
addition, patient’s fears of side effects from corticosteroids
   8,25 Emollients remain
    2 Emollients
  
       

        
        



8      

        
         
     


     

Rationale for Selected Active Ingredients in a
Novel Emollient Plus
      


28
        
         
   10 Some of the
        
    
     
    
    
  

     
       
     
        
      
      
     
       

30
      
     
       
Figure 2: Components of Emollient plus
Chandrashekar BS, Luger T, Rajendran SC, Parathasaradhi A, Thomas J, Ganjoo A, Sharma
D, Damishetty R, Ruby N, Sujay V, Sriram S, Udare S, Shah D, Rajgopal J. Role of Actives in
Emollients in Atopic Dermatitis. J Dermatol & Skin Sci. 2024;6(1):16-23
Journal of Dermatology and Skin Science
Page 19 of 23
 31  

        
32


     
S. aureus33
  
ratio of total S. aureus
       
      

35
Mode of Action of the Components of Emollient
Plus
Liquorice extract
     
      
      
       
     

      

      
     
   38 
       
       
     
    
     
      
       
     

Niacinamide
      
    
       

       
       
     
      
       
     
        
     

Galacto-oligosaccharides (GOS)
   

       

        

        

       
      
       
       

       
       
   
       
       
dermatitis
Xylitol
        
       
     
     10 


      

      

the skin microbiome     
       

Novel Emollient Plus in the Management of AD
      
    

       
      
10




     


       
      


Chandrashekar BS, Luger T, Rajendran SC, Parathasaradhi A, Thomas J, Ganjoo A, Sharma
D, Damishetty R, Ruby N, Sujay V, Sriram S, Udare S, Shah D, Rajgopal J. Role of Actives in
Emollients in Atopic Dermatitis. J Dermatol & Skin Sci. 2024;6(1):16-23
Journal of Dermatology and Skin Science
Page 20 of 23
Study design Objecves Paents Treatment Evaluaon Results
Study 1. Gasparri. 2019
Observaonal pilot study
(n=10 AD paents);
comparisons were made
between treated versus
non-treated areas on
each paent
Invesgate the
ecacy of Emollient
plus on skin
moisture, epidermal
barrier funcon,
and AD signs and
symptoms
Ten otherwise
healthy Caucasian
adults with clinical
signs of AD
Emollient plus
applied twice
daily to areas
of AD on one
side of the body,
with treated and
untreated areas for
comparison.
Performed at
baseline, 1, and 2
days aer the rst
applicaon of
Emollient plus, and
aer 7 and 21 days of
twice-daily treatment
Signicant reducon in
pruritus was seen versus
baseline (Day 1: 42.6%
reducon; Day 21: 40.7%
reducon) and versus
untreated areas. 80% of
paents were ‘sased’
or ‘very sased’ with
Emollient plus
Study 2. Quadri, et al. 2021 Pre-clinical analysis
An in-vitro study, using a
tape-stripping mediated
skin barrier disrupon
model
Invesgate the
eect of Emollient
plus on skin barrier
recovery
N/A
Aer tape stripping,
epidermal cells
were treated with
either Emollient
plus or diluent
(control) and
cultured
Samples were
analyzed at 18 hours
(skin barrier integrity
analysis) or up to
120 hours (lipid
restoraon analysis)
Emollient plus
signicantly increased
epidermal thickness in
organ cultures.
Study 3: Quadri, et al. 2021 Clinical analysis
Double-blind,
randomized,
placebo-
controlled study in
paents with mild-to-
moderate AD in clinical
remission
Evaluate the role
of Emollient plus
in hydraon and
vascularizaon of
the skin
Male (n=10) or
female (n=10)
between the
ages of 24 and
60 with mild- to-
moderate AD in
clinical remission
phase
Assigned to one
of two treatment
groups: Group 1:
n=10 (5 male),
Emollient plus once
daily Group 2: n=10
(5 male), placebo
once daily
Performed at
baseline, and aer
1 and 2 months of
once-daily treatment
with Emollient plus or
placebo
Aer 2 months of
treatment with
Emollient plus, a
signicant reducon in
epidermal thickness was
seen versus placebo
Study 4: Sparavigna, et al. 2019
Single center,
randomized, double-
blind study in paents
with mild AD
Primary objecve:
ecacy of Emollient
plus versus vehicle
on pruritus
Paents were male
or female aged 24–50
years (mean age: 40
years) with mild AD
(SCORAD <25)
Emollient plus
(n=58 forearms)
or vehicle (n=39
forearms) applied
twice daily to the
le or right forearm
for 28 days
Performed at
baseline, and aer
14 and
28 days of treatment
with Emollient plus or
vehicle
Signicant reducon of
pruritus compared with
baseline (T14 d: 53%,
p<0.05; T28 d: 89%,
p<0.05) and with vehicle
(T14 d: 53% vs 23%,
p<0.05; T28 d:
89% vs 60%, p<0.05,
respecvely)
Study 5: Gasparri, et al. 2021
Monocentric, open study
in subjects predisposed
to AD
Evaluate the
changes in skin
microbiome aer 28
days of treatment
versus baseline in
Emollient plus -
treated areas
Eleven paents
considered
predisposed to AD:
very dry skin; ≥1
episode of dermas
during life; skin
prone to irritaon/
erythema;
and
frequent itching
Emollient plus was
applied twice daily
between the neck
and shoulders for
28 days
To assess alpha
microbiome diversity,
bacterial DNA
was extracted from
treated areas at
baseline and aer 28
days of treatment
Microbial diversity
improved in the majority
of subjects following 28
days of treatment with
Emollient plus.
Study 6: Sparavigna, et al. 2020
Open-label, single-
arm, intervenonal,
mulcentre study in
paents previously
treated with
pimecrolimus
Primary objecve:
Evaluate the me to
are, dened as the
me to next disease
exacerbaon
One hundred and
one paents, both
genders aged >12
years with
mild-to-moderate
AD (IGA=2
or 3),
who had responded
successfully to 1%
pimecrolimus cream
Emollient plus was
applied twice daily
for 4 months
Performed at
baseline, and aer
14 days, then every
month for 4 months
Emollient plus aer 1%
pimecrolimus, was able
to maintain regression
of are-up to at least 4
months in 99% of the
paents. Percentage of
paents who had an IGA
of 2 decreased over me
from 17% at baseline to
2% at Month 4.
Table 1: Studies with novel emollient plus
Chandrashekar BS, Luger T, Rajendran SC, Parathasaradhi A, Thomas J, Ganjoo A, Sharma
D, Damishetty R, Ruby N, Sujay V, Sriram S, Udare S, Shah D, Rajgopal J. Role of Actives in
Emollients in Atopic Dermatitis. J Dermatol & Skin Sci. 2024;6(1):16-23
Journal of Dermatology and Skin Science
Page 21 of 23
        


  



 
       



     
   
  To date, no
   



    

 50    
     51  
       
        
52      
        
mild to moderate AD11    
         
        
      

         
11

     

       
         


11
Limitations of the Studies
Patients with AD often have increased penetration
      
  53      
     
   53 Farnesol has been reported
      
       
  55     
       

      
     



Conclusions
       
     
      
      
       
     
       
     
    
       
         

       
     
       
        
       
cream, ointment or lotion depends on the environmental

Acknowledgements
     
     




Funding

Data Availability Statement
       

References
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 
         
   Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol.  

 
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           
Exp Dermatol. 
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            
Proc Natl Acad Sci
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         
      
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    
and betamethasone on the skin barrier in patients with atopic
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            
Ann Dermatol. 
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           
   Cochrane Database Syst Rev.  
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 
Semin Cutan Med Surg. 
            
Drugs Context.

         
          
      Steroids. 
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 
J Dermatolog Treat. 
 

    Current Drug Delivery.  

        Cutis.
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            
           
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Dermatol Sci. 
 

J Dermatol Sci. 
         
Curr
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           
 Evid Based Complement
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           
        
       Molecules.  

 
      
Int J Mol Sci. 
           
 
Dig Dis Sci. 
           
      
      
Antioxidants (Basel). 
 
      Advance
Research in Dermatology & Cosmetics (ARDC). 
Chandrashekar BS, Luger T, Rajendran SC, Parathasaradhi A, Thomas J, Ganjoo A, Sharma
D, Damishetty R, Ruby N, Sujay V, Sriram S, Udare S, Shah D, Rajgopal J. Role of Actives in
Emollients in Atopic Dermatitis. J Dermatol & Skin Sci. 2024;6(1):16-23
Journal of Dermatology and Skin Science
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     
Front Microbiol. 
  
        
Molecules. 
 
     Frontiers in
Nutrition. 
 N Engl J Med. 
 
        
Acta Derm Venereol. 
     

Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 
           

     24th World Congress of Dermatology,
Milan, Italy. 
 

J Plast Pathol Dermatol. 
   
        J Hum
Hypertens. 
           
Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 
          
 
       Pediatrics.

 
       Am J Clin
Dermatol. 
             
      Contact Dermatitis. 

           

Allergy. 
 
   
       J Eur
Acad Dermatol Venereol. 
... Any changes in this context in the aforementioned components result in increased transepidermal water loss [24]. The use of emollients should be a key and first line of treatment; it should also take into account the pathogenesis of AD and be a treatment that is clearly personalized and targeted to the individual patient [2,31]. ...
... They help reduce the need for pharmacotherapy, including the use of glucocorticosteroids on the skin. Such management reduces the risk of side effects that follow steroid use, whose potential side effects include the development of Cushing's syndrome, cataracts or whole-body endocrine disruption [12,17,31]. There are studies confirming that emollients reduce the severity of skin lesions in AD [31,96,97]. ...
... Such management reduces the risk of side effects that follow steroid use, whose potential side effects include the development of Cushing's syndrome, cataracts or whole-body endocrine disruption [12,17,31]. There are studies confirming that emollients reduce the severity of skin lesions in AD [31,96,97]. In clinical studies of so-called "plus" emollients, it has been noted that their use significantly reduces skin pruritus and improves skin hydration and epidermal barrier function [31]. ...
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Background: Moderate to severe AD can be successfully managed by systemic treatments. Current guidelines also recommend emollients or emollients 'plus' and eudermic cleansers for all AD patients to improve the skin barrier and provide anti-irritant and anti-pruritic effects. Objectives: To investigate the efficacy of skin care (in addition to systemic treatment) with an Emollient 'plus' balm designed to improve the skin barrier and skin microbiome plus a corresponding syndet compared to usual commercial emollients and cleansers. Methods: In a randomized controlled multicenter study, patients with moderate to severe AD (Severity scoring of atopic dermatitis [SCORAD] score ≥ 40) receiving systemic treatment (cyclosporin A, dupilumab or a Janus kinase inhibitor) were randomized 1:1 to apply twice daily for 10 weeks Emollient 'plus' after pre-cleaning with the syndet (Emollient 'plus' group) or to continue with their usual emollient and cleanser (Control group). Assessments included SCORAD, pruritus on a Visual Analog Scale, Dermatology quality of life questionnaire (DLQI), efficacy and tolerance questionnaires. Results: Included were 57 patients with mean age of 38 years (range 19-70 years). The mean amount of emollient used after 10 weeks was 447.3 g (range 29-1099 g) and 613.2 g (range 97-2565 g) for the Emollient 'plus' versus the Control, respectively (p = 0.0277). After 10 weeks, subjects in the Emollient 'plus' had a significantly greater reduction in current pruritus (p = 0.0277) and a greater reduction in some DLQI items compared to the Control group. Conclusions: In patients with moderate to severe AD receiving systemic treatment, the Emollient 'plus' regimen significantly improved pruritus and quality of life items compared to the control, while using 23% less product over a 10-week period. These results stress the importance of daily use of emollients, especially emollients 'plus' to improve signs, symptoms and quality of life in patients with AD.
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Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic, inflammatory skin disorder characterized by eczematous and pruritic skin lesions. In recent decades, the prevalence of AD has increased worldwide, most notably in developing countries. The enormous progress in our understanding of the complex composition and functions of the epidermal barrier allows for a deeper appreciation of the active role that the skin barrier plays in the initiation and maintenance of skin inflammation. The epidermis forms a physical, chemical, immunological, neuro-sensory, and microbial barrier between the internal and external environment. Not only lesional, but also non-lesional areas of AD skin display many morphological, biochemical and functional differences compared with healthy skin. Supporting this notion, genetic defects affecting structural proteins of the skin barrier, including filaggrin, contribute to an increased risk of AD. There is evidence to suggest that natural environmental allergens and man-made pollutants are associated with an increased likelihood of developing AD. A compromised epidermal barrier predisposes the skin to increased permeability of these compounds. Numerous topical and systemic therapies for AD are currently available or in development; while anti-inflammatory therapy is central to the treatment of AD, some existing and novel therapies also appear to exert beneficial effects on skin barrier function. Further research on the skin barrier, particularly addressing epidermal differentiation and inflammation, lipid metabolism, and the role of bacterial communities for skin barrier function, will likely expand our understanding of the complex etiology of AD and lead to identification of novel targets and the development of new therapies.