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Chapter 1
DOI: 10.4018/979-8-3693-0912-4.ch001
ABSTRACT
In this chapter, the authors explore the distinctions between social media influencers and traditional
celebrities in fashion and beauty. Next, they discuss the significance of perceived similarity, identifi-
cation between social media influencers and their audience, and authenticity for fashion and beauty
influencers’ success. Finally, they examine the evolving landscape, current trends, and the anticipated
trajectory of the fashion and cosmetic industries. Generally, the fashion and cosmetic industries share
many characteristics and accept influence from one another. Therefore, it would be beneficial to examine
these two industries together.
In February 2000, Jennifer Lopez gained significant attention at the 42nd Grammy Awards cer-
emony when she wore a striking green Versace dress, an iconic moment that remains vivid in a
generation’s collective memory. The dress captured immediate global attention, and people around
the world eagerly searched online to catch a glimpse of it, to the point that it turned into one of the
most searched queries of its time. This unprecedented demand for images led to the development
of Google Images.
Before this moment, Google Search results were primarily text and web links. However, the over-
whelming desire to visually experience the now-famous dress marked a pivotal moment in internet history.
Much has transformed since the year 2000, yet the enduring power of a single image—a dress—continues
to captivate our attention even in the present day.
Shaping Style:
The Rise of Fashion and Beauty
Social Media Inuencers
Faren Karimkhan
https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8793-8207
Syracuse University, USA
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INTRODUCTION
The landscape of the Internet has been transformed by the influence of social media, reshaping the way
we consume information. Today, platforms like X have become our go-to sources for news, while Insta-
gram and Pinterest have emerged as hotspots for fashion inspiration. However, many of those inspirations
no longer come from traditional celebrities like Jennifer Lopez; instead, they stem from ordinary social
media individuals who have captivated our attention with their content and style.
Accessibility and availability of the Internet and the popularity of social media have given birth
to a new breed of celebrities known as social media influencers (Appel et al., 2019). Social media
influencers (SMIs) are particularly dominant sources of inspiration for consumers in the realm of
fashion and beauty (Chu & Seock, 2020; Driver, 2018). In the past, most fashion and cosmetic brands
relied on celebrity collaborations to bring attention and visibility to their brand and establish con-
sumer trust. However, in the past decade, we have observed a significant pivot towards SMIs (Jin et
al. 2019; Linqia, 2019).
While the efficacy of celebrity endorsements remains undeniable, the surge in social media influencer
endorsements cannot be overlooked. Brands, both high-end luxury and every day, are increasingly turning
to influencers to bridge the gap between themselves and consumers, amplifying brand awareness and
promoting trust. Although brands have had success with celebrity endorsements, there are still drawbacks
to this technique. Celebrity endorsement can be both costly and risky due to the potential for attracting
negative publicity (Wei & Lu, 2013).
Existing research results do not give a definite verdict on whether celebrity or social media in-
fluencer endorsement is more effective, but recent studies have found evidence for the effectiveness
of social media influencers over traditional celebrities. For example, results of a recent empirical
study suggested that sponsored content shared by SMIs increases purchase intentions more than
those of traditional celebrities (Pöyry et al., 2021) However, the effectiveness of social media
influencer endorsement and the popularity of this technique in the fashion and beauty industries
is undeniable (e.g., Jin et al., 2021; Sokolova & Kefi, 2020). SMIs have reshaped the dynamics
of brand promotion and consumer engagement. The shift towards SMIs reflects a new era where
authenticity, relatability, and direct audience connection take precedence in the evolving landscape
of digital influence.
Instagram, specifically, has become dominant in the fashion industry as one of the most influential
sources for fashion insights (Chu & Seock, 2020). As a visual-based platform, Instagram aligns well with
the fashion industry’s reliance on visual appeals (Djafarova & Rushworth, 2017). Instagram, YouTube,
and recently, TikTok have become the perfect place for social media fashion and beauty influencers to
create and share their content and build a fan base.
In this chapter, we will explore the distinctions between SMIs and traditional celebrities in fashion and
beauty. Next, we will discuss the significance of perceived similarity, identification between SMIs and
their audience, and authenticity for fashion and beauty influencers’ success. Finally, we will examine the
evolving landscape, current trends, and the anticipated trajectory of the fashion and cosmetic industries.
Generally, the fashion and cosmetic industries share many characteristics and accept influence from one
another (Driver, 2018; Yan & Bissell, 2014). Therefore, it would be beneficial to examine these two
industries together.
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What Sets Social Media Influencers Apart from Traditional Celebrities?
Ordinary users on social media evolve into SMIs as they draw a substantial audience by producing con-
tent that attracts significant attention (Khamis et al., 2017; Tan, 2017). As they continue to grow their
careers, SMIs may gain an audience population that is comparable to celebrities. For instance, Chiara
Ferragni is a social media fashion influencer, who has gained over 29 million followers on Instagram
and even has started her own clothing brand. So, if SMIs can reach an audience size that is comparable
to or even sometimes bigger than those of celebrities, are they essentially the same? Although it may
look that way at first glance, SMIs are inherently different from traditional celebrities.
Ordinary Status
The key distinguishing factor between SMIs and traditional celebrities lies in their ordinary status. SMIs
are recognized as trusted trendsetters within their specific niches (Gräve, 2017; De Veirman et al., 2017).
They participate in brand endorsements by seamlessly integrating brand messages into their content in
exchange for rewards, such as free products, brand trips, tickets to shows and events, etc., that are typi-
cally determined by their outreach metrics (such as follower count, monthly views, engagement, etc.)
(Audrezet et al., 2020; Luvaas, 2017). This contrasts with collaborations and endorsements by traditional
celebrities, where the audience is clearly aware of the financial incentives for the celebrities involved
(Gräve, 2017), which take away from their authenticity and affect consumers’ trust. While followers tend
to perceive branded content from SMIs as peer endorsements; therefore, they show lower resistance to
their promotional messages (Pöyry et al., 2019).
Path to Fame
Celebrities and SMIs are very different in their paths to prominence. Traditional celebrities attain fame
through careers in entertainment, professional sports, and similar industries, whereas influencers rely
solely on social media to cultivate their audience and establish a career (Brooks et al., 2021; Carrillat
& Ilicic, 2019; Harnish & Bridges, 2016). For instance, celebrities are often in the spotlight, starring
in movies, showing off their looks on red carpets, and appearing on talk shows—opportunities that
influencers generally lack. SMIs instead rely on social media to grow their audience base. For this
reason, the relationship dynamics between celebrities and their audiences are inherently different
from those of influencers.
Friendship-Like Relationship
To remain relevant and expand their reach, influencers must sustain a constant and direct connection
with their audiences on social media as their primary platform. They must consistently share content on
social media, participate in Q&A sessions, produce daily life vlogs, and offer glimpses into their personal
moments to stay connected and relevant. Influencers are often seen as more relatable and approachable,
similar to having a “long-distance friend” (Djafarova & Rushworth, 2017). They frequently address
their followers directly in their posts, reply to their comments, and answer their questions which creates
a sense of closeness with their audience (Chung et al., 2023; Erz & Christensen, 2018). Consequently,
the type of relationship that influencers establish with their audience is more authentic (Scott, 2015,
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p. 295), and real (Senft, 2008). This phenomenon cultivates a dynamic similar to a friendship between
SMIs and their followers (Djafarova & Rushworth, 2017; Mudambi & Schuff, 2010; Schouten et al.,
2019). This unique connection contributes significantly to their influence over followers and consumers
(Jun & Yi, 2020; Ki et al., 2020).
It is important to acknowledge that SMIs have the potential to gain significant follower counts and
develop into the status of micro-celebrities. However, it’s essential to recognize that a notable discrepancy
typically exists in audience size between SMIs and traditional celebrities.
Lesson From Dior: From High-Profile Celebrity
Endorsement to Influencers’ Campaign
Celebrity endorsements are practically inseparable from high-end and luxury fashion and cosmetic brands.
Brands, like Dior, often utilize celebrity endorsements to align themselves with the prestige and allure
of famous figures. In 2004, Charlize Theron established a groundbreaking record by securing an 11-year
contract as a brand ambassador for the luxury fashion and cosmetics brand Dior, with a staggering value
of 55 million USD (Nelson, 2023). Engaging in celebrity endorsement is a common practice for luxury
fashion houses and is true to Dior’s DNA. However, this deal, in particular, was attention-grabbing in the
industry and was placed in the category of most high-profile celebrity endorsement deals with celebrities.
While it’s less common for luxury fashion houses to venture into social media influencer campaigns,
in 2017 Dior engaged in a social media campaign known as #DiorLoveChain. the #DiorLoveChain.
The campaign was, in fact, a charitable initiative in which Dior pledged to donate $1 to organizations
established to end poverty among children and provide schooling for girls in Kenya each time the #Dio-
rLoveChain hashtag was shared on social media.
High-profile celebrities including Charlize Theron, Natalie Portman, and Jennifer Lawrence (Weil,
2017), as well as several influencers with followers of fewer than 500,000 were selected to participate
in this campaign and answer the question of “What would you do for love?” in an Instagram post and
use the #DiorLoveChain hashtag. The campaign distinguished itself through its innovative fusion of
celebrity partnerships and influencer-style engagement. This inclusive strategy elevated the campaign’s
reach and authenticity, bridging the gap between celebrity endorsements and influencer marketing in
a unique and impactful way. By leveraging high-profile celebrities in a manner similar to influencers,
Dior effectively capitalized on the prestige and status of celebrities while simultaneously utilizing the
authenticity and engagement potential of SMIs. This approach allowed Dior to maintain the allure of
celebrity endorsement while also connecting with their target audience through social media platforms,
thereby enhancing the campaign’s authenticity and impact. Although this campaign surely cost Dior
less than the 55 million USD contract, it brought significant visibility and engagement to the brand. The
campaign was widely successful and marked the beginning of luxury fashion designer brands engaging
in social media influencer endorsements.
This example shows that more and more brands are beginning to recognize the value of SMIs and
are actively seeking to integrate influencers into their advertising strategies. The key takeaway from this
example is that leveraging social media influencer endorsements can serve as a complementary approach
to primary brand advertisements. This method proves to be highly effective in harnessing the influence
of social media personalities while remaining authentic to the brand’s core values, avoiding any sense
of forced or misplaced promotion.
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What Makes Fashion and Beauty Influencers Unique?
The era of SMIs has created a participation culture as opposed to exposure. Social media fashion in-
fluencers have the power to create trends and make certain fashion items a “must-have.” This power
shift from traditional celebrities to ordinary individuals in an industry that has spent far too many years
selling the ideal beauty is noteworthy.
Today, thousands of influencers exist in every niche and on different platforms. Fashion and cos-
metics stand out as particularly popular and densely populated with influencers (Chu & Seock, 2020;
Figure 1. The image shows a post from Beatrice Gutu’s Instagram, (@beatrice.gutu) one of the SMIs
selected by Dior to participate in the #DiorLoveChain campaign
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Driver, 2018). It is typical for consumers today to watch their favorite influencers get ready, do their
makeup, etc., to find inspiration for their personal aesthetic. Many consumers turn to influencers for
product recommendations and are heavily influenced by the trends they promote. This is a revolutionary
shift for the cosmetics and fashion industries, where the traditional glossy pages of magazines featuring
professional photoshoots with supermodels are seemingly giving way to the influence of ordinary indi-
viduals sharing their personal style online. In contemporary times, the accessibility of digital platforms
has democratized the fashion and beauty industry by enabling virtually anyone to become an influencer
(Karlovitz, 2020). This phenomenon has empowered previously marginalized voices and images to gain
visibility within the industry (Suk, 2021), thereby fostering greater inclusivity and diversity in fashion
and beauty narratives. Research results show that SMIs can play a significant role in contributing to the
culture of body positivity (Cohen et al., 2019; Cohen, Fardouly, et al., 2019). Cosmetic and fashion in-
fluencers are unique in the sense that they offer an alternative source of expression and inspiration, away
from the old-school beauty standard —rich, thin, tall, heterosexual, and white—which many consumers
seem to find refreshing and relevant (Rocamora, 2011). Fashion related content created by influencers
is believed to be more real than mainstream magazines because they promote street fashion used by real
and everyday people (Rocamora, 2012).
Fashion and beauty influencers are unique in the sense that they have contributed to the transforma-
tion of the industry from an exclusive space accessible only to the privileged minority into an inclusive
platform where everyone can freely express themselves and explore their unique style, regardless of their
body size or sociodemographic status (Trequattrini et al., 2019). This shift has caught the attention of
brands across the spectrum, from high-end and luxury to everyday, and has encouraged brands to em-
brace the “realness movement” as a response to the new industry climate (Anderson, 2023). From this
perspective, influencers effectively bridge the gap between brands and consumers by bringing visibility
to consumers’ authentic desires and preferences and reshaping the landscape to align more closely with
what people genuinely want.
Social media fashion and cosmetics influencers today play a prominent role in the industry and sit
in the front row of fashion shows. As noted earlier, influencers are trendsetters. Therefore, brands have
turned to influencers to adapt themselves to the current and gauge consumer preference. Marketers in the
fashion industry are increasingly turning to influencers to influence both current and potential consum-
ers’ purchasing decisions, reaching wider audiences at a lower cost (Britt et al., 2020). The effectiveness
of this strategy lies in influencers presenting brands’ products in alignment with their personal tastes
and styles (Audrezet et al., 2020). This approach is perceived more as inspiration or peer endorsement
rather than a traditional advertisement, making it a more effective strategy.
Fashion and beauty influencers are also unique in the way they foster a personal connection with their
followers within the intimate realm of clothing and cosmetics (Hudders et al., 2020). This connection
serves as a critical mechanism, allowing influencers to create an impact on their audiences. Beyond the
utilitarian aspect of clothing, fashion and cosmetic products are often used to fulfill deeper, personal,
and intricate needs linked to self-expression and identity (Evans, 1989). Individuals frequently utilize
fashion and makeup as powerful tools to articulate their self-concept, attain image congruence, and
signify group membership (Carroll & Ahuvia, 2006; Lundblad & Davies, 2016).
The role of these products in shaping personal identity highlights the importance of the interpersonal
connection between influencers and their audience (Khamis & Munt, 2010). This connection, founded
on shared values and aesthetic preferences, not only influences consumer choices but also forms a
symbiotic relationship where followers find inspiration, guidance, and a sense of belonging in the in-
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fluencer’s curated world. As a result, influencers become not just fashion guides but also pathways for
self-discovery and empowerment, solidifying their impact in the ever-evolving world of fashion influ-
ence (Kim, 2023; Limatius, 2020).
Is It Still All About the “Ideal Beauty” Standards?
Historically, the fashion and cosmetic industries have been centered around pursuing a glamorous
and visually appealing aesthetic. Brands have consistently promised consumers a sense of perfection
through their products and an elevated sense of allure and visual enchantment. The traditional narrative
of these industries has often portrayed an idealized image of glamour, which is also often unrealistic
and unattainable. Physical attractiveness has always been crucial for brands related to physical appear-
ances, such as fashion and cosmetic brands (Kamins, 1990). For example, in celebrity endorsement, the
physical attractiveness of the endorser has been a crucial factor in the fashion and cosmetics industries.
The persistent use of the “ideal thin” concept in fashion advertising and the presentation of models with
flawless skin and facial features- often extensively altered and retouched- in cosmetics advertising has
been the industry norm for a long time.
Research results have continuously shown that exposure to thin models, especially in fashion ad-
vertising, can lead to negative consequences and severe symptoms such as body dissatisfaction, eating
disorders, self-esteem issues, and depression (e.g., Fardouly & Vartanian, 2015; Kim & Lennon, 2007).
Despite the overwhelming amount of evidence, the majority of retail brands have been reluctant to change
their approach because “thinness sells” (Dittmar & Howard, 2004). However, in recent years, audiences
have become more aware of digital alteration and the fact that many images shown in advertising are,
in fact, unrealistic and unhealthy.
There has been an undeniable change in consumers’ tastes regarding fashion and cosmetics. As a result,
few brands have started to take a different approach, such as incorporating average or plus-size models
in their advertising campaigns (Clayton et al., 2017; Convertino et al., 2019). For instance, intimate ap-
parel brand Aerie has gained attention by advocating for body positivity and showcasing diverse models
in their campaigns—a departure from the standardized “ideal thin” image often promoted by brands
like Victoria’s Secret. In 2014, Aerie launched their #AerieReal campaigns and featured unretouched
photos of models with various body sizes and skin colors to celebrate natural beauty. They asked other
women on social media to participate. The campaign has been a massive financial success for the brand
and brought them significant positive attention (Kohan, 2022).
The rise of influencer culture significantly influences the transformative shift we observe in the
industry. Unlike celebrities, a majority of influencers defy the conventional ideals of beauty standards.
Instead, they present diverse body sizes, ethnicities, skin colors, and personal tastes. This diversity in the
influencer landscape contributes substantially to creating a more inclusive and varied space within the
fashion and cosmetics industry. In contrast to the traditionally narrow portrayals of beauty, influencers
bring forth a multitude of perspectives, fostering a more authentic and relatable representation for their
audiences. This shift is indicative of a broader movement towards embracing and celebrating diverse
forms of beauty within the realms of fashion and cosmetics (Talbot, 2019). Social media has enabled
individuals to express their unique fashion tastes and preferences on a personal level, as opposed to
conforming to overarching global narratives (Camiciottoli, 2015). Regardless of race, ethnicity, gender,
age, or body type, individuals can utilize social media platforms to articulate their identity, culture, and
personal fashion choices, allowing for the sharing of diverse styles, tastes, and opinions (Belk, 2013).
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Remi Bader, known on social media as Remi Jo, is a plus-size fashion influencer and content creator.
She has gained 2.3 million followers on TikTok and 686 thousand followers on Instagram. She also made
it to the Forbes 30 under 30 list among social media creators and personalities (Adebonojo, 2023). Remi
Bader has launched her own collaborative collection with fashion brand Revolve and has partnered with
major brands such as L’Oréal.
Bader’s looks and aesthetic appear to be very popular among her audience, but she does not stop
there. Remi Bader has been a vocal advocate against size discrimination within the fashion industry and
has criticized brands for size discrepancies. Standing apart from the standardized norms of fashion and
cosmetics brands, she represents a growing cohort of influencers challenging conventional norms. Prior
to the advent of SMIs, curvy models were rarely featured in mainstream fashion magazines. However,
in contemporary times, the widespread popularity of influencers from previously marginalized groups
has compelled brands to acknowledge and address their needs. Influencers like Bader play a significant
role in this shift towards a more inclusive culture within the fashion and cosmetic industries.
Another example is Grece Ghanem, a 56-year-old fashion influencer who has gained significant
attention on social media for her unique sense of fashion and style that is ageless. Ghanem, with 1.5
million followers on Instagram and 394 thousand followers on TikTok, has brought attention to another
group of consumers whom the fashion and beauty industries have often marginalized due to their age.
Conventional beauty standards that fashion and cosmetic brands embrace often overlook individuals
beyond their 20s and 30s. Anti-aging skincare products and conservative clothing items are typically
marketed toward consumers in their 40s and 50s. However, in recent times, influencers such as Gha-
nem have played a significant role in challenging age discrimination that has become ingrained in the
industry. These influencers question the traditional narrative by showcasing ageless style and beauty and
contribute to a broader cultural shift that embraces and celebrates beauty across all age groups. Their
influence and popularity highlight the need for the industry to recognize and cater to the diverse beauty
needs of consumers at every stage of life.
Today, there is still predominant discrimination and exclusion because of body size, race, age, etc.,
in the fashion industry and its media, despite the consumers’ demanding a more inclusive and diverse
market (Lewis, 2019). Although the industry has not entirely moved past the exclusive and discriminatory
culture, there has been slow and steady progress made in representation. The landscape of the fashion
and beauty industries is much more inclusive today and welcoming of all aspects of diversity, and influ-
encers, in many respects, have played a role in fostering this positive change. Influencers have created a
significant shift in these industries where “authenticity” and “realness” are celebrated over “perfection.”
The Winning Formula for Fashion and Cosmetic Influencers:
Similarity, Wishful Identification, and Authenticity
A fair question to ask at this point is: What makes social media fashion and beauty influencers effective
and impactful? What qualities lead to their credibility and ability to influence their consumers and what
they decide to purchase? Persuasion and advertising theories have tried to answer this question. Source
credibility theory (Ohanian, 1990) is a commonly applied theory to answer this question. According to
this theory, trustworthiness, expertise in the field, and attractiveness constitute the three components that
enhance the credibility and, consequently, the effectiveness of the source, including influencers. While
this theory adeptly explains the effectiveness of celebrity endorsers and captures the impact of SMIs in
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areas that align with celebrities, it does not capture the distinctive aspects and qualities that also play a
role in the effectiveness of influencers.
In academic research, various factors have been examined to understand their contribution to the
effectiveness of influencers, including source-product congruency, authenticity, relatability, similarity,
para-social relationship, identification, physical and social attractiveness, etc (e.g., Chu & Kamal, 2008;
Ki & Kim, 2019; Kim & Kim, 2021; Martensen et al., 2018; Sokolova & Kefi, 2020; Taillon et al.,
2020; Tolbert & Drogos, 2019; Van Esch et al., 2018). While all these factors play a role in the overall
success of an influencer, in the fashion and cosmetics domain, the key to success can be distilled into
Figure 2. The image is selected from Remi Bader’s Instagram (@remibader)
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three main elements: perceived similarity, identification, and authenticity. These factors emerge as the
primary contributors that solidify influencers as successful sources of information and inspiration. It is
important to note that this does not diminish the significance of other mentioned qualities; instead, the
discussion here emphasizes the specific importance of these qualities in fashion and cosmetics, which
can sometimes be overlooked.
Perceived Similarity
SMIs thrive on the perception of similarity between themselves and their audiences (Yuan & Lou, 2020).
SMIs enhance the feeling of similarity by posting content about their personal life to make their profiles
Figure 3. The image is selected from Grece Ghanem’s Instagram (@greceghanem)
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appear ordinary, humanized, approachable, and authentic (Djafarova & Rushworth, 2017; Schouten et
al., 2019). The possibility of direct interaction between influencers and their audiences, though, for ex-
ample, comments, etc., strengthens the feeling that the influencer is similar to oneself (Schmidt, 2007).
Similarities in demographics, background, interests, attitudes, social status, and lifestyles can create a
sense of similarity between influencers and their followers (McPherson et al., 2001; Phillips et al., 2006)
which can enhance SMIs’ effectiveness. For instance, findings from an empirical study examining beauty
influencers revealed a significant relationship between attitude homophily and perceived credibility and
para-social interaction between the influencer and the audiences, which in turn, led to higher purchase
intention (Sokolova & Kefi, 2020). Another study found that perceived similarity with SMIs positively
impacts consumers’ purchase intention and loyalty to the influencer (Kim & Kim, 2021). Other research
findings indicate that consumers tend to be receptive to information when they perceive the source as
similar to themselves (Yaniv et al., 2011). Research results also suggest that influencers who are perceived
as similar by their audience can influence consumers’ purchase decisions (e.g., Shang et al., 2017), which
is also one of the mechanisms that contribute to the effectiveness of influencers.
Perceived similarity is even more critical in the fashion and cosmetic industries (Kozar & Damhorst,
2008). Fashion and makeup choices are closely tied to one’s physical appearance, which is also influenced
by demographics such as ethnicity. Therefore, similarities in demographic characteristics may enhance
the feeling of similarity between influencers and their audiences. People choose to follow particular fash-
ion and beauty influencers because they appreciate their style, and they find their content relatable. For
instance, petit women might be more interested and willing to take fashion advice and inspiration from
petit influencers because they are familiar with that body type. Similarly, someone with a darker skin
tone may be more interested in following makeup tutorials from an influencer with a similar complexion,
as they trust that the suggested products and techniques would complement their features (Childs, 2022).
These shared characteristics and similarities establish a close connection between influencers and their
audience, a particularly crucial aspect in fashion and beauty, where physical attributes take center stage.
Beyond physical characteristics, shared values and sociodemographic traits also play a significant role
in creating a perception of similarity between influencers and their audience. Consumers often select
specific clothing items and brands not only for their aesthetic appeal but also to convey social meaning
and attain social acceptance (Pham, 2011). For instance, an individual earning $300,000 annually seek-
ing to establish social class and status through fashion might find an influencer with similar values and
preferences more relatable than someone in a lower-income group who values minimalism. In this way,
influencers become not just style guides but relatable figures who resonate with their audience’s diverse
social and economic backgrounds.
Wishful Identification
Identification is “a persuasion process that occurs when an individual adopts the behavior or attitudes
of another individual or group based on a self-defining relationship” (Kelman, 1961, p. 63). Bandura’s
(2001) social cognitive theory further characterizes identification as a psychological matching process
wherein individuals change their emotional responses or behaviors to align with those of another person.
In the case of influencers, wishful identification, or the desire to be more “like them,” is particularly
important as it can influence the consumers’ purchase decisions (Ki & Kim, 2019). When individuals
adopt behaviors to become more similar to influencers, it extends to influencing their purchase inten-
tions. Identification occurs when one is attracted to an endorser and strongly desires to become like
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them (Erdogan, 1999). From this perspective, if the audience admires an influencer to the extent that
they aspire to be more like them, it is likely they will also follow the influencer’s purchase decisions as
a means to achieve that resemblance.
Identification and similarity are often interconnected (Schouten et al., 2019). Previous research indi-
cates that audiences are more inclined to experience wishful identification with influencers rather than
celebrities, primarily due to a higher perceived similarity (Gong & Li, 2017; Gräve, 2017; Jain & Roy,
2016; Jin & Phua, 2014). Wishful identification is more likely when audiences perceive the source as
similar and share commonalities (Hoffner & Buchanan, 2005). This dynamic appears prevalent in the
relationship between fashion and beauty influencers and their followers.
Wishful identification remains crucial in the realm of fashion and cosmetics. The frequent and easily
modifiable decision-making nature in the fashion and cosmetics domain prompts consumers to engage in
purchases influenced by wishful identification more regularly. Products within the fashion and cosmetic
industry are characterized as low involvement and low risk. For instance, when a consumer makes a pur-
chase influenced by wishful identification, seeking to align their style and appearance with their favorite
influencer, the financial investment is typically limited, such as spending $100 on a pair of jeans or $20
on lipstick. The potential outcomes, even in less favorable scenarios, involve minimal risk – perhaps
the consumer may not end up wearing the jeans or find the lipstick suits them. These consequences are
comparatively low risk, highlighting the relatively low stakes associated with decisions in the fashion
and cosmetics realm influenced by wishful identification.
Authenticity
Authenticity is another aspect of the success formula for influencers. The concept of authenticity revolves
around notions of truth, genuineness, and reality (Beverland & Farrelly, 2010). According to the self-
determination theory, authenticity entails individuals engaging in behaviors driven by intrinsic motiva-
tion—driven by one’s inherent desires and passions (Deci & Ryan, 2000). Conversely, inauthenticity
entails participating in extrinsically motivated behaviors, which are propelled by external incentives or
pressures, such as the anticipation of rewards (Ryan & Deci, 2000), similar to financial compensations
in the case of SMIs.
From this perspective, authenticity can be understood as how genuine the influencers are perceived
by their followers, which also depends on their motives. As previously mentioned, audiences are aware
of the financial motivations when celebrities engage in brand endorsement, which contrasts with their
perceived authenticity. Although financial compensation in influencer brand endorsement is becoming
more common, influencers still approach it differently. They strive to persuade their audience that
the endorsed products align with their personal preferences and that their recommendations remain
authentic (Hund & McGuigan, 2019). Even when creating sponsored content, influencers frequently
emphasize the independence of their reviews and recommendations. They also feature the product in
non-sponsored content, reinforcing the authenticity of their recommendations to the audience. This
approach aims to build trust by assuring viewers that the influencer’s endorsement is genuine and
not solely motivated by a paid partnership. The combination of sponsored and non-sponsored con-
tent provides a more authentic and transparent representation of the product, strengthening the bond
between influencers and the audience. A recent study found that influencers perceived authenticity
positively impacts consumers’ attitudes toward the sponsored product, purchase intention, and loyalty
to the influencer (Kim & Kim, 2021).
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Authenticity is even more critical for fashion and beauty influencers. Audiences expect influencers to
be more “real” and “authentic” compared to traditional celebrities and models, which fosters a relation-
ship that is in many ways similar to a friendship between influencers and their followers (Mudambi &
Schuff, 2010; Djafarova & Rushworth, 2017; Schouten et al., 2019). Authenticity in fashion and beauty
influencers is a dynamic interplay of transparency, genuine self-expression, and trustworthy recom-
mendations. Those who successfully embody these qualities are more likely to build lasting connections
with their audience and wield significant influence in the ever-evolving landscape of fashion and beauty.
Several research studies focused on beauty, fashion, and lifestyle influencers have concluded that the
authenticity of SMIs is an essential element that contributes to their effectiveness (Duffy, 2013; Gannon
& Prothero, 2016; García-Rapp, 2017; Marwick, 2013).
Influencers employ various strategies to enhance perceptions of authenticity, including sharing un-
filtered selfies (Gannon & Prothero, 2016), engaging in intimate dialogue (Suhr, 2014), fostering direct
interactions with their audience (Marwick, 2013), and creating original content (Duffy & Wissinger,
2017). Followers often seek inspiration from influencers who stay true to their unique aesthetics and
preferences rather than conforming to trends solely for commercial purposes. In the era dominated by
photo editing and filters, influencers who embrace their natural selves and advocate for body positivity
contribute to an authentic narrative. This commitment to authenticity not only challenges conventional
notions of beauty but also resonates deeply with followers seeking relatable and genuine representation
in the world of fashion and beauty influencers.
Case Study
A Success Story: ASOS and Social Media Influencers
This case study seeks to provide insights into the factors that facilitated the success of ASOS’s col-
laboration with social media influencers. According to Yin (2009, p. 18), a case study is an empirical
investigation that examines a phenomenon within its natural context. The design of this case study fol-
lows a descriptive single-case study approach (Priya, 2021), aiming to portray the phenomenon within
its real-world setting. Various data sources have been utilized, including industry population statistics,
academic literature, observations, and narrative analysis (Baxter & Jack, 2015).
ASOS, a prominent online retailer specializing in clothing and cosmetics, has emerged as a frontrun-
ner in the digital marketplace, mainly targeting a youthful consumer base. Today, ASOS carries over
850 brands and has its own clothing and accessories label. ASOS is known as an international brand
and ships to 196 countries. ASOS also offers fast shipping, and its next-day shipping (available in the
UK, US, and other countries) is very popular among consumers.
The brand’s effective use of social media influencer marketing has played a key role in positioning it
at the forefront of the industry. This case is significant as it highlights the essential elements that lead to
the success of a social media influencer campaign and emphasizes the pivotal role influencers can play
as a brand’s backbone. Influencers have contributed significantly to enhancing ASOS’s visibility and
connecting more deeply with consumers (McCormick & Livett, 2012). The collaboration between ASOS
and influencers stands out as not only one of the earliest but also among the most achieving examples
in the realm of social media influencer partnerships within the fashion industry.
ASOS, previously known as “As Seen On the Screen” (ASOS), is a British fashion and cosmetic
retailer launched in 2000 as a celebrity-linked clothing website. As Seen On the Screen initially focused
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on providing consumers with imitations and replicas of clothing items celebrities wear. In 2003, ASOS
rebranded itself and evolved its strategy, which was a pivot point in the brand’s success. Recognizing
shifts in consumer preferences, ASOS departed from its celebrity-centric approach and aimed to deliver
a seamless shopping experience, offering affordable clothing items with tasteful and trendy designs to
younger consumers (Robert, 2018). A significant part of ASOS’s success today is due to its well-planned
and executed social media influencer campaigns that are rooted in the DNA of the new ASOS. In this
case study, we will review the core elements that led to ASOS success with SMIs:
Social Media Influencers at the Forefront
ASOS has achieved significant success with influencers by placing them at the core of their brand rather
than using influencers as a supplementary element to other advertising efforts. This unique approach has
led consumers to view influencers as brand ambassadors rather than mere advertising outlets. ASOS’s
strategy regarding influencers has resonated with the audience, making the integration of influencers
into ASOS’s identity feel natural and aligned with the brand’s core.
ASOS carefully curates a group of influencers, referred to as “insiders,” who showcase various fashion
styles and body shapes to contribute to ASOS’s social media. By frequently featuring ASOS clothing,
accessories, and beauty products in their daily content, ASOS insiders not only enhance the brand’s
visibility but also contribute to the perception of authenticity.
ASOS rarely posts content created by the brand itself. Instead, the majority of their content has been
created and re-posted by ASOS) by a diverse array of influencers representing various niches, body
sizes, ethnicities, styles, and more. This strategy reinforces the perception of influencers as authentic
advocates for the brand. It not only showcases a variety of perspectives but also strengthens the organic
and genuine connection between ASOS, its influencers, and the broader consumer base.
Community Building
ASOS launched the #AsSeenOnMe campaign in 2004, encouraging consumers to share photos and vid-
eos showcasing themselves wearing ASOS products and use the hashtag across different social media
platforms. As of January 2024, the hashtag remains active and has been shared over 1.4 million times,
highlighting the lasting success and impact of the campaign.
This campaign is very beneficial for ASOS as it generated substantial engagement and visibility
without incurring costs. The user-generated content, which is viewed as trustworthy and authentic by
consumers, became a valuable asset for ASOS, and the popularity of the hashtag served as a vote of
confidence for the brand from consumers.
ASOS also recognized that for the campaign to be sustainable, they must offer something of value in
exchange. ASOS reciprocated by featuring user-generated content on its official Instagram page with 14.8
million followers (as of January 2024) and on the product pages on its website. This strategy was very
well-received, especially by micro-influencers who were trying to establish their careers on social media
and needed the visibility that ASOS offered. This reciprocal approach not only empowered individual
creators by featuring their content but also created value for the broader community. Users participating
in the #AsSeenOnMe campaign had the opportunity to enhance their own social media presence but
also contributed value to the entire community, allowing consumers to receive recommendations from
fellow advocates within the ASOS community.
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This strategy established a reciprocal relationship between the brand and consumers, establishing a
powerful community of ASOS fans. The #AsSeenOnMe campaign effectively positioned these fans at
the forefront of ASOS’s most influential media outlets – their official website and Instagram page. This
community-centric approach has proven to be a compelling force in strengthening the brand-consumer
relationship for ASOS.
No Platform Is Too Small; No Platform Is Too Big
Another element of ASOS’s success story is platform diversity. ASOS has not only leveraged various
social media platforms but also has the ability to pivot, for example, from Facebook to Instagram and
TikTok, as a response to the dynamic shifts in the market and evolving consumer culture. By maintain-
ing a strong presence across multiple platforms, ASOS achieves a broader reach and stays attuned to the
preferences and trends that resonate with diverse audiences.
Recognizing the distinct user demographics and purposes of each platform, ASOS has adapted its
influencer content to suit the preferences and behavior of users on each platform. For instance, on You-
Tube, influencers often share longer videos, such as lifestyle content or weekly product reviews. This
platform caters to users who seek in-depth and comprehensive content. In contrast, on Instagram, the
same influencers may utilize the Stories feature to engage with the audience more casually and frequently.
Understanding the unique characteristics of each social media platform allows ASOS to effectively con-
nect with diverse audiences, optimizing content for the specific expectations and preferences of users
on Instagram, YouTube, TikTok, Snapchat, etc.
As mentioned earlier, ASOS relies heavily on influencers for their Instagram content, but they also
extend their influencer collaborations across multiple platforms. ASOS frequently re-posts and collaborates
with influencers on its TikTok account, which has 2 million followers and a remarkable 20 million daily
engagements. The TikTok content often includes short videos offering glimpses into quick “get ready
with me” or other styling-related content, aligning with the platform’s focus on short and engaging videos.
On YouTube, ASOS features series that serve as a “guide” into various styles and aesthetics, each
featuring different influencers known for their distinct fashion preferences. This strategy on YouTube
provides audiences with a more in-depth exploration of diverse styles, which also aligns with the purpose
of the platform. By tailoring its influencer content to suit the characteristics of each platform, ASOS
effectively maximizes its reach and engagement across all major social media platforms.
Body Positivity and Inclusivity
Influencers have played a pivotal role in aiding ASOS to embrace and highlight body positivity and
inclusivity. In addition to the brand’s progressive steps, such as eliminating gender-specific sections for
clothing and accessories on its website and substituting “beauty” with “face+body,” ASOS’s collabora-
tions with influencers have enabled the brand to better practice and showcase its inclusivity.
ASOS takes a distinctive approach by delving into influencer content instead of relying solely on
traditional models. This strategy allows them to showcase a diverse range of styles, body sizes, and
unique approaches to fashion and style. Influencers, being real individuals, proudly display features like
stretch marks, freckles, cellulite, and other perceived “imperfections” without digitally altering their
content. This bold move is not only a significant step in the right direction but also a direct response to
consumers’ increasing demand for realness and authenticity in the fashion industry. By embracing and
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celebrating the authentic beauty of influencers, ASOS has effectively bridged the gap between the brand
and consumers and has established a closer and more relatable connection.
Beyond The Glamour: The Critiques and Challenges of Influencer Culture
Authenticity Under Threat
While we have discussed the positive contributions of social media fashion and beauty influencers, it
is also essential to acknowledge the downsides. One prevalent critique aimed at influencers in general
(not specifically fashion and beauty influencers) is that the oversaturation of the space has compromised
influencers’ authenticity. Today, in every given niche, there are thousands of influencers driven to expand
their follower count and land brand deals.
Fashion and cosmetics are among the most crowded and saturated niches across all social media
platforms. As influencers navigate the crowded and competitive landscape, some find themselves com-
pelled to compromise authenticity for the sake of career advancement. A common scenario involves
influencers accepting endorsement deals from brands they may not genuinely appreciate. The pressure
to seize every opportunity to enhance their career leads individuals to endorse products or services that
do not align with their true preferences or values. This compromises the integrity of their content and
raises questions about the sincerity of their recommendations.
There is a delicate balance between genuine content creation and the pursuit of professional growth.
This paradox prompts a larger conversation about the sustainability and ethics of influencer culture,
urging both influencers and their audience to critically evaluate the motivations behind the content they
create and consume.
Encouraging Overconsumption
As mentioned earlier, in order to stay connected and relevant, influencers need to engage with their audi-
ences and post new content constantly. For fashion and beauty influencers, this dynamic often translates
into constantly showcasing new products on their social media platforms. However, constantly promoting
various products may contribute to an overconsumption culture among the audience.
Video topics like “Brand hauls,” “Unboxing,” “Get ready with me using all new beauty products,”
or “Come shopping with me” are very common among fashion and beauty influencers. While it is
understandable that influencers, as part of their job, need to shop for the latest trends consistently, the
frequency and enthusiasm with which they showcase new, and often entirely unnecessary products can
have negative consequences. The constant exposure to such content may influence consumers to emulate
these behaviors, leading them to overspend on products they probably do not need.
Social media fashion influencers have significantly contributed to the surge in the popularity of
fast-fashion brands such as the Chinese giant Shein and H&M. Known for their frequent release of
new collections every few weeks, as opposed to the traditional seasonal approach, these brands spe-
cialize in offering clothing items designed for short-term use, available at very low price point. This
continuous cycle aligns with the influencers’ need for regular content as they eagerly unbox, showcase,
and style the latest collections every few weeks. While this practice enhances their visibility on the
platform, it encourages a culture of fast-fashion consumption and overconsumption among audiences.
The emphasis on rapid turnover and low prices perpetuates the idea that clothing is disposable, en-
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couraging consumers to engage in frequent, impulsive purchases that may not align with sustainable
and mindful consumer practices.
The influencer’s role as a trendsetter, coupled with the nature of their content creation, has the potential
to contribute to a culture of excessive consumerism. Fashion and beauty influencers constantly create
and embrace new trends, which gives them new content ideas but also creates a need for new items to be
purchased. This perpetual cycle introduces a stream of “must-have” items that remain trendy for only a
few weeks. The desire to keep up with the latest and trendiest items endorsed by influencers may drive
consumers to make purchasing decisions influenced more by social media trends than practical necessity.
This phenomenon reflects the broader impact of influencer content on consumer behavior and raises
questions about the responsibility influencers bear in shaping consumer culture and consumption patterns.
What Does the Future Hold?
Despite the critiques discussed above, the positive impacts of fashion and beauty influencers outweigh
the negatives. This is not intended to diminish the fair and significant criticisms discussed earlier; rather,
it emphasizes that by fostering awareness and responsibility among brands, influencers, and audiences,
influencers can indeed be a sustainable and powerful force for positive change in the fashion and cos-
metic industries.
The prevailing trend in the market strongly indicates that influencers are here to stay. As discussed
earlier in the chapter, even esteemed designer houses, such as Dior, are starting to acknowledge the power
of influencers and embrace this new world of fashion and beauty. There has been consistent growth in
influencer marketing, and the trajectory is rising.
The consistent growth in influencer marketing highlights its enduring trajectory and a continuous and
upward trend. This trend signifies a fundamental shift in how brands approach marketing and engage
with their audiences. Influencers have become integral players in shaping consumer preferences and
driving brand visibility. As the influencer landscape continues to evolve, it is evident that influencers
will remain a potent and influential force in fashion and beauty.
Another notable trend in the fashion and cosmetic industry is the shift towards collaborating with
micro-influencers rather than mega-influencers (Hosie, 2019). Micro-influencers, with a smaller follower
count, are generally perceived as more authentic and relatable, which makes it easier for audiences to trust
their content and recommendations (Britt et al., 2020; Ehlers, 2021). This shift towards micro-influencers
provides brands with a distinct advantage over traditional celebrities or mega-influencers. The emphasis
on micro-influencers reflects a strategic move within the industry to establish more genuine connections
between influencers and their audiences, ultimately benefiting the brands involved.
CONCLUSION
In conclusion, social media fashion and beauty influencers have created a dynamic landscape marked
by distinctions from traditional celebrities. The uniqueness of influencers lies not only in their diverse
backgrounds and styles but also in their transformative role in steering the industry towards a more
inclusive culture by challenging conventional beauty standards.
Social media influencers in the fashion and beauty industries have played a pivotal role in democratiz-
ing a space historically dominated by traditional and often unattainable beauty standards. These standards
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have perpetuated a sense of exclusion and marginalization among individuals who do not conform to them.
Today, attributes such as age, race, skin color, body size, and personal fashion and makeup preferences
are no longer constrained by universal norms. Instead, individuality is celebrated and embraced, thanks
to the diverse representation and inclusive messages promoted by social media influencers.
Factors such as similarity, wishful identification, and authenticity are pivotal in establishing genuine
connections between influencers and their audiences. While criticisms about authenticity and the promo-
tion of overconsumption have been raised, the discussion highlights the industry’s ongoing evolution.
The future trends indicate a shift towards micro-influencers and a continued dependence on influencers
as powerful agents shaping the fashion and beauty narrative. SMIs play a central role in reshaping the
industry, advancing it towards authenticity, inclusivity, and dynamic transformations in the realms of
beauty and fashion. Social media influencers play a pivotal role in holding brands accountable for their
exclusionary practices and contribute substantially to amplifying consumer opinions. with the sustained
presence of social media influencers, the landscape of the fashion and beauty industry is positioned to
evolve into a more diverse and inclusive space.
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