Case Study of Women Body Shapes

Full text

DOI: 10.2478/9788367405386-032
© 2023 T. Penko, A. Rudolf. This is an open access article licensed under the Creative Commons
Attribution 4.0 International (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/)
https://doi.org/10.2478/9788367405386-032
CASE STUDY OF WOMEN BODY SHAPES
T. Penko and A. Rudolf
Institute of Engineering Materials and Design, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, University of
Maribor, Slovenia
(E-mails: tadeja.penko@um.si, andreja.rudolf@um.si)
Abstract: The aim of case study was to determine female body shapes by photographing the subjects' bodies. 20
women aged between 20 and 30 years were included in the study in Slovenia. The body measurements of the
subjects were measured: body height, bust circumference, waist circumference and hip circumference, as well
as the subjects' weight to calculate the body mass index (BMI). The subjects were photographed in the standard
standing posture and for measuring body dimensions. They wore body fitted clothing so that the body contour
line could be extracted accurately from the photograph. Based on photographs of the subjects' body, the body
silhouettes were created using an Inkscape drawing program. The silhouettes obtained were then compared with
the four silhouettes in the body shape assessment scale (BSAS) and based on their similarities, body shapes were
determined. The result show that human body shapes can be determined by examined protocol. In addition, we
found that body shapes differed in a small sample of subjects taking all four typologies according to the BSAS
method.
Keywords: Body photo; Body silhouette, Body shape assessment scale, Women body shapes
1. INTRODUCTION
The average body shape is a set of measurements that are constantly changing and
average as long as the measurements represent the majority of the population.
Throughout history, whimsical fashion has dictated different, sometimes almost
impossible silhouettes and body shapes. The function of garments was to shape the body into
a certain form, regardless of the person's body shape and measurements [1]. Today, when
everything is allowed in fashion, the most important thing is that the clothes fit our figure,
that we feel comfortable, beautiful, and confident in them, which we largely influence by
choosing the appropriate garment pattern design.
The garment we choose and the decisions we make about how and on what occasions
we wear it define us and influence how others see us [2].
Usually, we decide on a certain garment pattern design based on our aesthetic and
functional expectations. These expectations mainly based on the chosen garment size and
proportions we want to have in our garments [3].
When a wearer evaluates the fit of a garment, the judgement is based on both the
appearance and the comfort of the garment. Appearance refers to the look, style and design
of the garment. When designing and constructing garments, the user's body shape, texture,
pattern, draping and weight of the fabric, as well as the way and occasion of wearing the
garment must be considered [4]. Nowadays, body shape is increasingly recognized in the
garment industry as a fundamental factor for a good fit [5]. It is important that garment pattern
designs are made accurately and that pattern designs are related to different body shapes to
ensure a good fit and satisfaction [5]. The good fit of a garment requires a proportional balance
between the body and the garment and can only be reliably achieved through appropriate
214

T. Penko, A. Rudolf
development and implementation of sizing systems, effective garment pattern designs
construction and quality manufacturing [6]. By choosing the right garment pattern design for
a particular body shape, the wearer's body shape can be emphasized or hidden.
Body shapes can be identified by subjective comparisons of body silhouettes or by
calculating ratios of body circumferences [7].
The BSAS© body shape assessment scale uses digitally illustrated female body
silhouettes to represent each of the four body shapes based on the following landmark
locations to differentiate whole body shapes: shoulder point to shoulder point, the frontal
waistline, and the widest point between the waist and crotch line, as seen from the front [8].
The study was based on quantitative landmark coordinate data derived from 3D body scans
combined with expert knowledge on the qualitative classification of female body shape based
on nine classifications of whole body and partial body shapes [8].
In the BSAS© scale, body shapes are divided into four categories: Hourglass, Pear,
Rectangular and Inverted Triangle, Figure 1. For the rectangular body shape, it is typical
balanced shoulder and hip width and a wide waist, for the hourglass body shape, the shoulder
and hip width are balanced and the waist is clearly defined (narrow waist) in relation to the
shoulder and hip width, for the pear (triangle) body shape, the hip and/or thigh width is
visually wider than the shoulder width, while for the inverted triangle body shape, the
shoulders are visually wider than the fullest width at the hip or thigh [8].
Figure 1. Body shape assessment scale [8]
The aim of this case study was to determine the body shapes of women by
photographing the bodies of the subjects. Based on the photograph of the subjects' body, the
body silhouette was extracted. The silhouette obtained was then compared with the four
silhouettes of the BSAS scale and based on their similarity, the body shape was determined.
2. METHODS
For this case study, 20 randomly selected women in Slovenia in the age group of 20
to 30 years were involved. The basic data of the tested persons are compiled in Table 1. The
subjects' basic body measurements (body height, bust circumference, waist circumference and
hip circumference) were measured according to the standard SIST ISO 8559-1:2017 [9], as
was their weight to determine their body mass index (BMI).
215

The 11th International Conference TEX TEH 2023, Bucharest, Romania
Table 1. Basic data of the tested persons
Age (years)
Weight (kg)
Body height
(cm)
BMI
Circumferences (cm)
Bust
Waist
Hip
N
Valid
20.00
20.00
20.00
20.00
20.00
20.00
20.00
Missing
0.00
0.00
0.00
0.00
0.00
0.00
0.00
Mean
23.65
64.05
165.30
23.45
89.05
74.00
91.50
Std. Deviation
2.54
10.21
5.55
4.32
7.54
8.00
8.08
Minimum
20.00
50.00
158.00
16.90
77.00
61.00
80.00
Maximum
29.00
90.00
175.00
34.70
103.00
90.00
114.00
The test subjects were photographed from the front in the standard standing posture
for measuring body dimensions according to the standard SIST ISO 8559-1:2017 [9], while
wearing body fitted clothing so that the body contour line can be extracted accurately from
the photograph, Figure 1. The subjects stood upright on a horizontal surface, without shoes,
with feet together and their heads in the Frankfurt plane.
Figure 2. Standard standing posture when photographing the subject
The subject's body photograph was imported into Inkscape software and translated
into a silhouette. The silhouette was created with the outline of the body in the photo using
the pen tool. The body was outlined without the neck, the head, the hands and up to the knees.
This gave us the shape of the black dress, the line of which follows the shape of the body
figure. The shoulder seam of the dress represents the widest part of the shoulder. These points
are marked on the silhouettes with two vertical red lines to indicate the width of the shoulders,
as is the case in the BSAS scale. Figure 3 shows the process from photographing the body to
determining the body shape according to the BSAS scale.
216

T. Penko, A. Rudolf
Figure 3. Templates of body shapes
The obtained silhouette from Inkscape was compared with the silhouette in the BSAS
scale (rectangular, hourglass, triangle and inverted triangle). The subject's body shape was
then determined based on the similarities between the two silhouettes (silhouette from the
Inkscape programme and silhouette from BSAS).
3. RESULTS WITH DISCUSSION
Twenty women between the ages of 20 and 30 took part in the study. The youngest
was 20 and the oldest 29 years old. The range of body weight was between 50.00 kg and 90.00
kg and height between 158.00 cm and 175.00 cm. The BMI of the women studied was
between 16.90 and 34.90. The smallest bust circumference was 77.00 cm, the largest 103.00
cm and the mean 89.05 cm. The smallest waist circumference was 61.00 cm, the largest 90.00
cm and the mean 74.00 cm. The smallest maximum hip circumference was 87.00 cm, the
largest 121.00 cm and the mean 98.95 cm, Table 1.
Table 2 shows the body shapes obtained and, for each body shape type, the minimum
and maximum values of the height in cm, the weight in kg and body circumferences (bust,
waist and hips) in cm of the test subjects.
The results of the study show that the most common body shape of the subjects is
rectangular (8 subjects). For the rectangular body shape, the minimum value of the bust
circumference is 77 cm and the maximum value is 103 cm. The minimum value of the waist
circumference is 65 cm and the maximum value is 87 cm. The minimum value of the hip
circumference is 80 cm and the maximum value is 103 cm. The silhouettes have balanced
shoulder and hip widths with small waist definition.
The hourglass shape was present in 6 cases. The minimum value of bust circumference
is 79 cm, the maximum value is 93 cm. The minimum waist circumference is 61 cm, the
maximum is 77 cm. The minimum hip circumference is 86 cm and the maximum is 96 cm.
Hourglass silhouettes also have a balanced shoulder and hip width, but a much smaller waist
compared to the rectangular body shape.
The triangle body shape was given in 4 cases with a minimum bust circumference
value of 85 cm and a maximum value of 101 cm. The minimum value of waist circumference
is 69 cm and the maximum value is 90 cm. The minimum value of the hip circumference is
85 cm and the maximum value is 114 cm. In triangle silhouettes, it is noticeable that the hips
are larger than the shoulders.
An inverted triangle was only found in two cases, both subjects have visually wider
shoulders and narrow hips.
217

The 11th International Conference TEX TEH 2023, Bucharest, Romania
Table 2. Body shapes, silhouettes and minimum and maximum values of body height and
weight, and body circumferences of the persons tested
Body shape
Silhouettes
Body height and weight
Body circumferences (cm)
Height (cm)
Weight (kg)
Bust
Waist
Hip
Valid
8.00
8.00
8.00
8.00
8.00
Mean
163.38
63.50
92.00
76.50
91.50
Std. Dev.
5.21
9.58
8.80
7.65
8.57
Min
158.00
51.00
77.00
65.00
80.00
Max
175.00
78.00
103.00
87.00
103.00
Valid
6.00
6.00
6.00
6.00
6.00
Mean
168.50
61.50
86.33
69.50
89.67
Std. Dev.
5.58
10.13
6.06
6.57
3.61
Min
161.00
50.00
79.00
61.00
86.00
Max
175.00
77.00
93.00
77.00
96.00
Valid
4.00
4.00
4.00
4.00
4.00
Mean
164.00
71.50
89.75
78.00
97.00
Std. Dev.
5.48
12.61
7.54
8.76
12.25
Min
158.00
63.00
85.00
69.00
85.00
Max
170.00
90.00
101.00
90.00
114.00
Valid
2.00
2.00
2.00
2.00
2.00
Mean
166.00
59.00
84.00
69.50
86.00
Std. Dev.
7.07
5.66
4.24
9.20
2.83
Min
161.00
55.00
81.00
63.00
84.00
Max
171.00
63.00
87.00
76.00
88.00
218

T. Penko, A. Rudolf
The comparison of the body figures with the body circumferences shows that on
average the lowest body circumferences are shown for the inverted triangle and hourglass
body shapes, and on average the highest body circumferences are shown for the triangle and
rectangle body shapes, Figure 4. Rectangular and inverted triangle body shapes suggest
similarity of bust circumference and hip circumference. Therefore, it is necessary to extend
the study with a larger number of subjects and also to include a study on the influence of body
widths on body figure shape.
Figure 4. Comparison of body figures with body circumferences
4. CONCLUSIONS
The aim of this case study was to determine the body shapes of women according to
the BSAS scale based on comparison with extracted body silhouettes from photographs of the
subjects' bodies.
In this case study, we found that we can adequately determine the shapes of body
figures using close-up photographs and extracting body silhouettes from photographs. The
group of women studied has different body shapes, of which rectangular body shape are the
most common, followed by hourglass, triangle and inverted triangle. The measured main body
circumferences show on average the highest circumferences for the triangle and rectangle
body shapes and the lowest for the inverted triangle and hourglass body shapes.
In future research, the most characteristic body widths will be included in the
determination of body shapes.
REFERENCES
[1] Armstrong, H.J., Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 2009, Pearson, India
[2] Lascity, M.E., Communicating Fashion: Clothing, Culture, and Media, In: Bloomsbury Visual
Arts, London, 2023, https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350112278
[3] Ashdown, S.P., Delong, M., Perception Testing of Apparel Ease Variation, In: Appl. Ergon., 1995,
26, 1, 47–54, https://doi.org/10.1016/0003-6870(95)95750-T
[4] Boorady, L.M., Functional Clothing – Principles of Fit, In: Indian J. Fibre Text. Res., 2011, 36,
344–347
[5] Tama, D., Öndoğan, Z., Fitting Evaluation of Pattern Making Systems According to Female Body,
In: Fibers Text. East. Eur., 2014, 4, 106, 107–111
[6] Ashdown, S., Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-to-wear Clothing
2007, https://doi.org/10.1201/9781439824306
[7] Song, H.K., Ashdown, S., Categorization of Lower Body Shapes for Adult Females Based on
Multiple View Analysis, In: Text. Res. J., 2011, 81, 914–931,
https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517510392448
[8] Connell, L. J., Ulrich, P. V., Brannon, E.L., Alexander, M., Presley, A. B., Body Shape Assessment
Scale: Instrument Development For analyzing Female Figures, In: Cloth. Text. Res. J., 2006, 24, 2,
80–95, https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X0602400203
[9] SIST ISO 8559–1, Size Designation of Clothes – Part 1: Anthropometric Definitions for Body
Measurements, 2017
219