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Only Girls Wear Barrettes: Dress and Appearance Standards, Community Norms, and Workplace Equality

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... What is more, the phrase that "we are what we wear" has been shown to signify one's nationality (Hakoköngäs & Sakki, 2016), social class (Mann & Loren, 2001), race (Smith, 2003), religion (Eller, 2000), political positions (Boris, 2017), incarceration (Gubar, 1981), modernity (Wilson, 2003), social change (Zurbriggen, 2013) and, notably, one's sex identity, the latter being a precursor to sexual objectification. Law scholar Katharine Bartlett (1994), for example, recounts a disturbing anecdote about how clothing -even a simple barrette -defines sex, even among children as young those in nursery school. As she tells the story: ...
... The study by Gervais and colleagues (2012) is one of the first attempts at an empirical study investigating these mechanisms. While we are not the first to suggest a connection between clothing and objectification (Bartlett, 1994;Dellinger, 2002;Goodin et al., 2011;Gurung & Chrouser, 2007), we argue that sex-segregated clothing, as a set of norms both formal and informal, may facilitate the negative consequences of objectification, particularly for women. ...
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Title VII prohibits sex discrimination in the workplace “because of sex.” Once on the job, however, courts allow employers to impose trait discrimination policies on employees, including sex stereotypical ones. Based on a survey experiment, we found that sex stereotyped dress styles for women—defined by bright colors, long hair, excessive make-up in contrast to dark suits, ties, and short hair cuts for men—sexualize women, thereby undermining viewers' perception of women's professional competence. A vast social-psychological literature explains “why.” Specifically, gender is a diffuse status characteristic that generally diminishes the perception of women’s capabilities. Sexualized dress styles augment that effect of gender by diverting viewers' attention from women's job performance to the visual attributes of women as objects. Our study confirms that women’s sexualized dress styles decrease viewers’ perceptions of women’s competence. We contend that this reduction in the perception of women’s competence disproportionately disadvantages members of a protected class, women, and, by so doing, constitutes an “adverse effect”. Notably, Title VII prohibits policies that impose adverse effects. Thus, by integrating legal standards with social psychological scholarship, this study presents a new foundation for the claim many legal scholars have sought to make, namely, why at least some trait discrimination policies violate Title VII.
... Furthermore, in the workplace men are generally judged by their actions, while women are more likely to be judged on their appearance (Bartlett, 1994). Studies have shown that to be hired or taken seriously in business, women should not dress or act in a feminine way (Forsythe, 1990). ...
... This approach overlooks the comparative disadvantage entailed in complying with 'female' appearance requirements (Bartlett, 1994;Wolf, 1990). While women in the workplace generally are afforded more clothing choices than their male counterparts (Howlett, Pine, Cahill, & Orakçıoğlu, 2015), this may equate merely to more time and effort when selecting their attire (Peluchette, Karl, & Rust, 2006). ...
Article
In some occupations, employers impose gendered appearance requirements on their employees. In this paper we present the findings of a small sample of Australian service industry workers subject to such requirements. We analyse these empirical findings to evaluate competing proposals in the literature for how to combat the material and other harms entailed by gendered appearance codes. We argue that the findings suggest that in the Australian context, these codes and the anachronistic norms that underpin them should be resisted across multiple fronts, including in employment and anti-discrimination law reform but also other sites of gender normalisation such as the media, schools and other institutions.
... It is important to note that these norms are rarely codified; more specifically, "dress and appearance codes are often seen as trivial, both because they seem to fit within our notions of how people ought to behave" [5]. Rather, oral tradition prevails in terms of normative appearance (Bartlett, 1994). Indeed, visual appearance is a critical component of perceived professionalism (AndersonGough, et al., 2002; Cooper andRobson, 2006). ...
... Notes 1. Huber and Burton, 1995, p. 373. 2. Konrath and Schwarz, 2007, p. 445. 3. Schau and Gilly, 2003. Bartlett, 1994, p. 2,550. 5. Brower, 2013 ...
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Online self-presentation is of increasing importance in modern life, from establishing and maintaining personal relationships to forging professional identities. Academic scholars are no exception, and a host of social networking platforms designed specifically for scholars abound. This study used Amazon's Mechanical Turk service to code 10,500 profile pictures used by scholars on three platforms - Mendeley, Microsoft Academic Search, and Google Scholar - in order to determine how academics are presenting themselves to their colleagues and to the public at large and how they are perceived - particularly in relation to professionalism and attractiveness. The majority of the individuals on Mendeley, Microsoft Academic Search, and Google Scholar were Caucasian, male, and perceived to be over the age of 35. Females and younger individuals were perceived as less professional than male and older individuals, while women were more likely to be perceived as "attractive." In addition, the Mechanical Turk coders were susceptible to framing; the individuals in the profile pictures were considered more "professional" if they were identified as "scholars" rather than merely as "individuals." The results have far-reaching implications for self-presentation and framing, both for scholars and for other professionals. In the academic realm, there are serious implications for hiring and the allocation of resources and rewards.
... Unsuccessful challenges to clothing or accessories requirements (or prohibitions) are plentiful and take many forms. Many of these decisions, some argue, end up legitimating the very stereotypes and social norms that led to the differential policies in the first place (Bartlett, 1994). The court held in Lanigan v. Bartlett and Co. Grain (466 F.Supp. ...
... Women in particular suffer from formal and informal appearance norms, as they not only face penalties for being too attractive as well as for being too unattractive, but most appearance norms also dictate that they spend inordinate (or at least unequal) amounts of time, money, effort, and energy to their appearance, whether they conform to conventional standards of beauty or not. Moreover, appearance standards that are gendered or sexualized, scholars argue, reinforce stereotypes and inequalities based on gender (see Bartlett, 1994; Rhode, 2009). Likewise, white and Protestant appearance standards obscure, and sometimes eliminate, cultural and ethnic diversity as well as individual expression. ...
Article
The formal and informal regulation of employees' appearance is a routine component of organizational life. In our research, we analyze appearance-related employment discrimination lawsuits. These cases involve organizational dress codes, grooming policies, and employers' attempts to regulate employees' appearance with regard to weight, hairstyles, religious attire, body art, and more. Men and women who refuse to comply with appearance norms face termination of their employment, promotion denials, lower wages, transfers, not being hired in the first place, and other workplace sanctions. Our focus on court deliberations and decisions allows us to explore not only the gendered nature of appearance policies themselves but also how the legal system supports, reinforces, codifies, or, conversely, deems unacceptable such policies. Our data demonstrate that organizations and courts are likely to support appearance norms that reinforce traditional ideas about femininity and masculinity.
... İşyerinde ayrımcılık işletmelerde yaygın görülen bir sorundur. Bunlar arasında; ırk (Hirsh & Kornrich, 2008;Deitch vd., 2003), cinsiyet (Elliott & Smith, 2004;Bartlett, 1993;Bell vd., 2011), din (Vickers, 2010;Ghumman vd., 2013;Wallace et al., 2014;Padela, 2016), dil (Bergman vd. 2008), sosyal sınıf (Gray vd., 2013), yaş (Riach & Cutcher, 2014, fiziksel görünüş (Mahajan, 2007); ve ideolojik farklılık (Nkomo & Hoobler, 2014) en sık görülen ayrımcılık türleridir. ...
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Bu araştırmanın amacı; T.C. 1982 Anayasası’nın 2. Maddesi’nde yer alan “sosyal devlet ilkesi”nin bir gereği olarak bakıma muhtaç bireylerin topluma kazandırılması adına uygulamada var olması gereken engellilerin istihdamını sağlamaya yönelik korumalı işyerini konu edinmiştir. Engelliler toplum içinde göz ardı edilen farklı durumlara/yeteneklere sahip bireylerdir. Bu bireylerin hayata bağlanması ve korumalı işyerlerinin çatısı altında ekonomik hayata dâhil olmasının ne derece gerçekleştiği bu çalışmada kavramsal düzeyde ele alınmıştır. Ayrıca Anayasa’nın 49, 50 ve 61. Maddelerinde yer alan; çalışma hakkı, çalışma şartları, ödevi ve dinlenme hakları ile sosyal güvenlik bakımından özel olarak korunması gerekenleri belirten yasalar ve Büyükşehir Belediye Özürlü Hizmet Birimleri Yönetmeliği kapsamına giren ilgili mevzuat değerlendirilmiş, akabinde mevcut yasaların iyileştirilmesine yönelik birtakım öneriler geliştirilmiştir. Türkiye’de engelli istihdamının OECD ve bazı Avrupa ülkelerine kıyasla geride kaldığı, bu anlamda geliştirilmesi gereken korumalı işyerleri için daha fazla adımın atılması gerektiği sonucuna varılmıştır. Ayrıca çalışmada korumalı işyeri pratiği down kafeler özelinde Türkiye’den ve dünyadan örneklerle mukayeseli olarak incelenmiştir. Türkiye’de down kafelerin bağlı olarak hizmet verdiği kurumlar tahlil edildiğinde ise yaklaşık yüzde 55’nin belediyelere, yüzde 35’nin dernek ve vakıflara, yüzde 10’unun ise özel kesim girişimlerine ait olduğu gözlemlenmiştir. Türkiye örnekleminde özel kesim ve belediyelerin birlikte organize ettiği down kafe sayısının yetersiz kaldığı saptanmıştır. Sonuç olarak yasal altyapısı olsa da korumalı işyerlerinin daha yaygın hâle gelebilmesi ve fonksiyonlarını tam anlamıyla yerine getirebilmeleri için ilgili yasal mevzuatın daha esnek ve uygulanabilir olmasına yönelik adımlar atılması gerekmektedir.
... Psychological research on transgender and nonbinary individuals' identities and experiences clearly show not everyone is born with genitals that match their gender nor do all people have binary experiences of their gender identity and this further complicates assumptions about how men and women are dimorphic and evolved under different pressures (Fast & Olson, 2018;Olson et al., 2015;Tate et al., 2014). Additionally, the concept prevalent in Western societies now that gender is an informative binary that organizes the social world is changeable and arose from policies that mandated binary gender (Bartlett, 1994;Bigler & Liben, 2007;Hyde et al., 2019). Lastly, evidence for the complexity of sexual orientation comes from a GWAS of same-sex sexual behavior in more than 400,000 people, which points to a small influence of genes on this behavior leaving open a lot of room for environment, psychology, and life experiences to influence whether or not a person engages in same-sex sexual behavior (Ganna et al., 2019). ...
... For their female employees, it included the proper length of skirt (knee-length), proper amount of make-up (light foundation and no black nail polish), and the proper number of accessories (no trendy or showy jewelry) (Berton, 2010). Researchers contend that this dress code continues to put women in subordinate positions to men due to the amount of effort that required for women to dress professionally (Bartlett, 1994). ...
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On an annual basis, Fortune releases the top 500 revenue-generating companies in the United States, referred to as the Fortune 500 collectively. The leadership team of these organizations is under scrutiny for their lack of diversity at the upper levels of management. In fact, in the history of releasing this report, there has only been one out lesbian in the CEO position (appointed in 2018). This phenomenological study of lesbians who are the senior executive levels of Fortune 500 companies seeks to understand their lived experiences within corporations to better understand what barriers, if any, exist for lesbians at the highest levels of corporations. What resulted was a discussion and insight into how these high-level leaders are redefining executive presence to incorporate more of who they are authentically versus the mold of a leader that they have been coached to or observed during their ascent to the top of corporate leadership ranks. The goal is to challenge the academy and corporations to utilize theories, such as queer theory, that push outside of traditional research to understand and fix issues related to gender more thoroughly.
... In fact, children are unable to detect the gender of other children when they appear without culturally stereotypic markers of their gender (e.g., hair styles, makeup, and clothing; Wild et al., 2000). Throughout much of U.S. history, gender-differentiated dress was legally mandated in most public settings, including schools and workplaces (Bartlett, 1994), further suggesting that gender/sex is perceptually marked so that it becomes psychologically salient, when it is not naturally so. Strong cultural norms continue to dictate that men and women differ in their (a) use of cosmetics and accessories (jewelry, hats, purses, belts, and shoes), (b) treatment of body hair, and (c) sculpting of their body shape via weight lifting, dieting, surgery, and so on. ...
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The view that humans comprise only two types of beings, women and men, a framework that is sometimes referred to as the “gender binary,” played a profound role in shaping the history of psychological science. In recent years, serious challenges to the gender binary have arisen from both academic research and social activism. This review describes 5 sets of empirical findings, spanning multiple disciplines, that fundamentally undermine the gender binary. These sources of evidence include neuroscience findings that refute sexual dimorphism of the human brain; behavioral neuroendocrinology findings that challenge the notion of genetically fixed, nonoverlapping, sexually dimorphic hormonal systems; psychological findings that highlight the similarities between men and women; psychological research on transgender and nonbinary individuals’ identities and experiences; and developmental research suggesting that the tendency to view gender/sex as a meaningful, binary category is culturally determined and malleable. Costs associated with reliance on the gender binary and recommendations for future research, as well as clinical practice, are outlined.
... The appearances of youth and children with gender dysphoria tend to align with the gender with which they identify (Fridell, Zucker, Bradley, & Maing, 1996;McDermid, Zucker, Bradley, & Maing, 1998;Zucker, Wild, Bradley, & Lowry, 1993). Thus, a person's clothing and appearance are tightly bound with constructions of gender in society (Bartlett, 1994;Flanagan, 2008). ...
Article
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Children's gender-stereotypical dress and appearance might be one of the first representations of children's emerging sense of gender identity. Gender self-socialization theories posit that as children become more aware of gender categories, they become motivated to adhere to gender stereotypes, such as by expressing interest in dressing in feminine or masculine ways. Socialization theories predict that children's gender-typed appearance reflects parents' choices. For example, gender-traditional parents might dress their children in gender-stereotypical ways. At the same time, dressing in gender-stereotypical ways might contribute to children's growing awareness of gender categories. The current study investigated the factors associated with gender-typed appearance among 175 (87 girls, 88 boys) Mexican American, Dominican American, and African American 2-year-olds. We examined both child and parent contributions to early gender-typed appearance. To measure children's early conceptual understanding of gender categories, we assessed children's use and recognition of gender verbal labels. To examine the influence of parent socialization, we assessed mothers' gender-role attitudes. Children's gender-typed appearance was observed and coded during an assessment. Surprisingly, mothers' gender-role attitudes were not significantly associated with toddlers' gender-typed appearance. However, toddlers' gender labeling was associated with their gender-typed appearance, suggesting that self-socialization processes can be found as early as 24 months of age.
... Community norms refer to the standard behaviors and attitudes within a community (e.g., Bartlett, 1994). Community norms can be associated with many aspects of life including religious beliefs, political structures, establishing and supporting priorities, and communication (e.g., Bucholtz, 1999). ...
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People frequently engage in the process of “heutagogy” (i.e., self-determined learning). Unlike pedagogy and andragogy, heutagogy occurs without a structure or leader setting the context and directing the learning toward a specific goal. The lack of structure and the possible self-determination of topic, value, source, and trust in information led us to wonder about the motivations, goals, and processes considered by college students as they engage in self-determined learning. We conducted a survey with 83 American college students regarding their information-seeking preferences and behaviors. Some students reported accessing different media depending on what information they were seeking, while others sought multiple forms of information from the same media. Family and community influenced their trust in media, yet they also recognized experts and data as important justifications for credibility of media. We exposed some relationships among personal characteristics, perceptions of information, and self-determined learning activities. We conclude with implications and directions for future research.
... On the basis of the above analysis it can be argued that the fact that the issue of veiling is presented in Western politics and media as a question of equality and not sexuality serves the purpose of concealing similar Western cultural discriminatory attitudes behind the Other's 'barbaric' culture and divert attention from the real questions. Although feminist scholars have pointed out the discriminatory and degrading character, for example, of certain types of advertising 46 or women's dress, 47 their warnings are regarded as superficial, and their fears as exaggerated because there are far more unacceptable and degrading practices out there: practices of the 'Others', for example veiling. ...
Article
The article addresses the use of notions of gender equality and non-discrimination in the discussions concerning the practice of Islamic veiling by the European Court of Human Rights as well as by French authorities in relation to the recent adoption of the law banning full face veils in public spaces in France. The author argues that the use of the rhetoric of gender equality without the required knowledge and understanding of the justifications for and discussions about this practice existing within Islam is in both cases very inadequate and leads to results opposite to those they intended to promote. Based on insights into the discussions of Muslims about the practice of veiling the author makes some proposals for a more adequate approach to this practice both from the point of view of women's status as well as from the point of view of relationship between Islam and the West.
... While it is certainly true that, even absent overt employer dress codes, worker dress and appearance would be impacted by and regulated by cultural norms and perceived employer preferences (Bartlett 1994(Bartlett : 2549(Bartlett-2556, the imposition by employers of explicit dress and grooming codes greatly increases both the extent and degree of such regulation. ...
Article
Employers frequently impose dress and grooming codes on their employees, and courts routinely uphold their right to discipline workers for their violation. Employee resistance to these dress and grooming codes is grounded in the importance of personal appearance to the performance of their sense of authentic identity – particularly racial and gender identity. Employers’ insistence on appearance codes in the face of that resistance represents their attempt to assert the primacy of an employee’s worker identity over other aspects of their personal identity. This paper takes a semiotic approach to analyzing the practices of dress code enforcement and resistance to enforcement and argues that it is through these practices that the meaning of race and gender identity in the construction of the self is made manifest in the workplace.
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Perceptions of clothing are complex, varying across individuals, situations, cultures, and time. Although there is very little research on the topic in our field, evidence from a wide variety of other disciplines points to the importance of clothing in the workplace. In this article, we review this evidence and identify three universal and distinctive clothing characteristics at work: formality, provocativeness, and fashionability. We also identify two other categories: uniforms and religiosity of clothing, which are tied to particular social groups. Drawing on attribution theory and the stereotype content model, we provide a cohesive conceptual framework in which clothing characteristics influence observers’ perceptions of wearer’s warmth and competence through observers’ dispositional attribution processes. These perceptions, in turn, influence facilitation behaviors, such as providing support to wearers, and harm behaviors, such as negatively biased performance appraisal. We conclude by offering suggestions for future research and implications for employees and employers with regard to managing clothing choices and avoiding potential biases.
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The purpose of this qualitative research guided by resilience theory was to investigate the experiences of four Black women senior student affairs administrators at predominantly White institutions in order to understand the strategies for success that led to their advancement to senior level positions. Participants included four deans of students and/or vice presidents for student affairs (reporting directly to the president of the institution) at four-year small private predominantly White institutions (enrollment under 5,000). The participants’ recounted experiences of tokenism, perceptions of the appearance, perceptions of communication styles, and inequitable compensation. They also reported support systems such as mentors, giving back, and spirituality that influence their thoughts, actions, reactions, decisions, and motivation to continue in the field, in their position, and ultimately in higher education. The implications of the study encourages institutions to provide funding, personnel resources, and training for all employees as well as encourages current Black women administrators to discuss their professional experiences to continue to inform scholarship and practice.
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As I have noted in the preceding chapters, countries in SSA and their citizens have been marginalized in both international and domestic patent polity, respectively. These marginalizations challenge the legitimacy of both the domestic and the international patent regulatory frameworks. They also produce juridical outcomes that fail to recognize different levels of development among nations/regions. In order to substantiate these claims, this chapter investigates the evolutionary trajectories of the concept of patents and tests whether the ‘participation’ of SSA countries in TRIPS negotiations met the basic conditions of the theory of democratic bargaining in global trade relations. Do the undemocratic outcomes, if any, affect the implementation of TRIPS in SSA countries?
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Amidst increasingly equality in belief and in practice between the sexes, we ask if height preferences still matter, and if so, why people say they matter. First, we collected data from Yahoo! dating personal advertisements. Second, we used answers to open-ended questions in an online survey. The Yahoo! data document that height is still important in decisions to date but that it is more important to females than to males. Results from the online survey indicate that women wanted tall men for a variety of reasons, but most of the explanations of our respondents were connected to societal expectations or gender stereotypes. Gender-based legitimation of height preferences seem to be more central than evolutionary-based legitimation, but future work may discover a more nuanced interpretation.
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Purpose Dress and appearance codes are often seen as trivial, both because they seem to fit within our notions of how people ought to behave, and because they appear to reflect legitimate employer concerns in running a business. But they are not constructed in a vacuum. They reflect and enshrine societal stereotypes and expectations of women and men and how they look – including assumptions about gender and sexuality and majoritarian norms. As such, they punish anyone who is an outlier by reason of gender, sexuality, race, religion, or culture. This paper seeks to identify the assumptions and effects on gender, sexuality, professionalism and class in appearance and behavior codes. Design/methodology/approach This is a conceptual paper exploring US case law on dress codes and employee appearance standards to examine issues of gender and sexual orientation identity on the job. By combining insights from sexual orientation identity theories and visibility, the paper seeks to uncover some of the interactions and effects of these appearance policies on women and LGBT persons in the workplace. Findings This paper shows that identity strategies and performances used by LGBT individuals and women in the workplace implicate sexuality and gender, but also professionalism and class. These dress and appearance codes carry with them consequences for both employers and employees. Practical implications The paper highlights the gender, sexuality and identity performance burdens on women and sexual minorities workplace controls over dress and appearance. Originality/value The paper discusses topics that are of interest to persons studying sexuality and gender identity issues in employment. It is based on an unpublished talk at the EDI conference in Vienna 2010.
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