Hair Growth Activity of Hair Tonic Preparations Containing Cinnamon Essential Oil (Cinnamomum burmanii) and Virgin Coconut Oil

Abstract

Cinnamaldehyde in cinnamon essential oil, lauric acid, myristic acid, and oleic acid in virgin coconut oil (VCO) were used in hair tonic preparations as hair growth agents. This study aimed to evaluate particle size and obtain optimum formulation of the hair tonic preparation and to observe growth activity with various levels of cinnamon essential oil and VCO. This research an experimental with rabbit used 4 test were divided into 6 treatment groups: 1) positive control (Regrou®); 2) normal control (without treatment); 3) negative control (hair tonic basis); 4) F1(1% cinnamon essential oil: 2.5% VCO); 5), F2 (3% cinnamon essential oil : 2.5% VCO); and 6), F3 (5% cinnamon essential oil: 2.5% VCO). The particle size analysis selected in formula 2 that cycle stable during storage, and fall into the microemulsion size range of 20-200 nm and there was no difference cycle because the significance was >0.05. The hair growth activity was determined using Average Growth Daily Gain.(AGD) formula and then.was analyzed.statistically using.One Way Anova. The results showed that had hair growth activity that was not significantly different. However, when compared with the positive control, formula 3 has hair growth activity above the positive control.

Full text

Hair Growth Activity of Hair Tonic Preparations Containing
Cinnamon Essential Oil (Cinnamomum burmanii) and Virgin
Coconut Oil
(Aktivitas Penumbuh Rambut Sediaan Hair Tonik Minyak Esensial
Kayu Manis (Cinnamomum burmanii) and Minyak Kelapa)
JUNVIDYA HEROWETI1,2*, DANANG NOVIANTO WIBOWO2,3, HIMATUL KHOERIYAH2,
RAMADHANIA ADELIA2
1Departement of Pharmacology and Clinical Pharmacy, Universitas Wahid Hasyim, Semarang,
Central Java, 50224, Indonesia
2Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Wahid Hasyim, Semarang, Central Java, 50224, Indonesia
3Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology, Universitas Wahid Hasyim,
Semarang, Central Java, 50224, Indonesia
Submitted 28 February 2023, Accepted 1 October 2023
Vol. 21, No. 2JURNAL ILMU KEFARMASIAN INDONESIA, October 2023, page.
ISSN 1693-1831
*Corresponding author
e-mail: junvidyaheroweti@unwahas.ac.id
Abstract: Cinnamaldehyde in cinnamon essential oil, lauric acid, myristic acid, and oleic acid in virgin
coconut oil (VCO) were used in hair tonic preparations as hair growth agents. This study aimed to
evaluate particle size and obtain optimum formulation of the hair tonic preparation and to observe
growth activity with various levels of cinnamon essential oil and VCO. This research an experimental
with rabbit used 4 test were divided into 6 treatment groups: 1) positive control (Regrou®); 2) normal
control (without treatment); 3) negative control (hair tonic basis); 4) F1(1% cinnamon essential oil: 2.5%
VCO); 5), F2 (3% cinnamon essential oil : 2.5% VCO); and 6), F3 (5% cinnamon essential oil: 2.5%
VCO). The particle size analysis selected in formula 2 that cycle stable during storage, and fall into the
microemulsion size range of 20-200 nm and there was no dierence cycle because the signicance was
>0.05. The hair growth activity was determined using Average Growth Daily Gain.(AGD) formula and
then.was analyzed.statistically using.One Way Anova. The results showed that had hair growth activity
that was not signicantly dierent. However, when compared with the positive control, formula 3 has
hair growth activity above the positive control.
Keywords: AGD, cinnamaldehyde, essential oil, hair growth.
Abstrak: Sinamaldehid pada minyak atsiri kayu manis dan kandungan asam laurat, asam miristat, asam
oleat pada VCO (virgin coconut oil) dapat digunakan sebagai penumbuh rambut. Penelitian ini bertujuan
untuk melihat ukuran partikel, aktivitas pertumbuhan rambut dari sediaan hair tonik dengan variasi
kadar minyak atsiri kayu manis dan VCO , serta mendapatkan konsentrasi yang optimal. Penelitian
ini bersifat eksperimental dengan enam kelompok perlakuan diantaranya kontrol positif (Regrou®);
kontrol normal (tanpa perlakuan); kontrol negatif (basis hair tonic); F1(1% minyak atsiri.kayu manis:
2,5% VCO); F2 (3%.minyak atsiri kayu manis: 2,5% VCO); dan F3(5% minyak atsiri kayu manis:
2,5% VCO). Analisis ukuran partikel dipilih pada formula 2 dimana menunjukkan siklus stabil selama
penyimpanan, dan masuk dalam rentang ukuran mikroemulsi 20-200 nm yang menunjukkan tidak ada
perbedaan signikan (>0.05) pada siklus. Data aktivitas pertumbuhan rambut dihitung menggunakan.
rumus AGD.(Average Growth Daily Gain).kemudian dianalisis secara statistik menggunakan ANOVA
satu arah. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa.hair tonik kombinasi minyak atsiri kayu manis dengan
VCO pada F1, F2, dan F3 tidak memiliki perbedaan yang signikan terhadap aktivitas pertumbuhan
rambut pada kelinci. Secara AGD kemampuan pada F2 dan F3 sebagai penumbuh rambut menunjukkan
nilai di atas kontrol positif.
Kata kunci: AGD, minyak esensial, penumbuh rambut, sinamaldehid.
186 - 192

HEROWETI ET AL. Jurnal Ilmu Kefarmasian Indonesia
187
propylene glycol (Zona Kimia, Indonesia), tween 80
(Raja Kimia, Indonesia), aquadest, buer pH 4 and 7.
For sample testing, the preparations were subjected
to rabbits (Wistar).
Equipments.The tools used included glass tools
(Pyrex, USA), mixer (Maspion, Indonesia), elec-
tric stove (Maspion, Indonesia), analytical balance
(Ohaus, USA), viscometer Otswald (Pyrex, USA), pH
meter (Handylab pH11/SET SI Analytics, Indonesia),
pycnometer (Herka, USA), and particle size analyzer
(HORIBA SZ-100 for Windows Z type, France).
METHODS. Preparation of Hair Tonic. Three
dierent formulations (1%, 3%, and 5%) of hair tonic
preparations containing combination of cinnamon
essential oil and VCO were distinguished based on
various concetrations of the cinnamon essential oil
according to previous research(13). Tween 80 and
polyoxyethylene 40 hydrogenated castor oil were dis-
solved in hot distilled water, while propylene glycol
was dissolved in distilled water. They were mixed ho-
mogenously using a magnetic stirrer. Methyl paraben,
menthol, and d-phantenol were dissolved in alcohol
96% using stirrer. The oil phase consists of cinnamon
essential oil and VCO was also mixed and put in a
mixer and made up to the appropriate volume.
Physical Characterization. Organoleptic test
were examine by colour observation of the hair tonic
preparations was carried out on a white background or
base in the panellist room, equipped with bright light.
Observation on aroma was performed by inhaling the
aroma of the formula, and the texture was determined
by pouring the samples on a slideglass and observed.
Homogeneity test was carried out by observing
the presence of coarse grains found in the preparation
mounted on a slideglass. The hair tonic was gently
dripped over the clean slide glass, to observed for the
presence of grains. Hair tonic without granules were
determined as homogeneous(7).
Determination of the pH of the hair tonic prepara-
tion was measured.using a digital pH metre (Handylab
pH11/SET SI Analytics). The electrodes were dipped
in a glass beaker containing hair tonic and the pH values
were recorded(14).
The density testing was carried out using a
pycnometer (Herka) at a room temperature of 25oC. The
initial empty pycnometer was weighed.(W0), was then
lled with aquadest and weighed (W1). Furthermore,
the specic gravity test was carried out for each hair
tonic sample. The pycnometer was rstly cleaned and
the sample was inserted gently to prevent air bubbles
and again the pycnometer was then weighe (W2).
The density of each sample was measured using the
below equation (1):
INTRODUCTION
THE MOST common hair problem is hair loss, which
can lead to baldness. A treatment for repairing the hair
loss is by using hair tonic(1). Natural.ingredients are
currently more preferred because they are safe and
relatively have lower side eects compared to the
synthetic ones(2). Cinnamon essential oil and virgin
coconut oil (VCO) are the herbal ingredients that can
be potentially used for hair care. Cinnamon essential
oil contains an antioxidant compound, namely cin-
namaldehyde(3). Antioxidants have potential activity
in reducing hair loss(4). Previous research has reported
that cinnamon essential oil has been proven to grow
hair at a concentration of 100%(5). Utilisation of other
products includes virgin coconut oil (VCO). Virgin
coconut.oil contains saturated fatty acids such as.lauric
acid, myristic acid, and oleic acid which has also eec-
tive to decreases hair loss. In previous research, the use
of VCO at a concentration of 100% was demonstrated
to accelerate the hair growth of male rabbits(6).
Therefore, incorporation of cinnamon essential
oil and VCO.in hair tonic preparations.is expected to
have synergistic activity as a hair growth. The hair
tonic preparations is intended for easy use, does not
leave deposits and is not sticky when applied to the
scalp(7,8). The formula of a hair tonic requirements
i.e. organoleptic, homogeneity, pH and viscosity(9).
Hair tonic preparation can be made by microemul-
sions. Microemulsions are nanometer-sized droplet
dispersions of homogenous liquid solutions(10). The
microemulsion system consists of water, oil and am-
phiphile, which is isotropic and thermodynamically.
stable.and has droplet sizes ranging from 20-200 nm
(11). Microemulsions are able to improve permeation of
lipophilic and hydrophilic compounds that are suitable
for application of hair growth formula(12).
Based on the description, this study aimed to
obtain optimum formulation hair tonic preparation
incorporated with combination of cinnamon (Cin-
namomum burmanii) essential oil and VCO using a
microemulsion system. The activity of the microemul-
sion preparations were observed by testing them to
rabbits.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
MATERIALS. The materials used in hair tonic
preparation were cinnamon essential oil produced by
Nusaroma (Cinnamomum burmanii), virgin coconut
oil (Coco Indo Jaya, Indonesia), alcohol 96% (PT.
Kreasi Dua Saudara, Indonesia), methyl paraben,
menthol (PT. Brataco, Indonesia), dexpanthenol
(Herbal Gayatri, Indonesia), polyoxyethilene 40
hydrogenated castor oil (Zona Kimia, Indonesia),

Vol 21, 2023 Jurnal Ilmu Kefarmasian Indonesia `
188
Determination of the hair tonic viscosity prepara-
tions using an Ostwald viscometer (Pyrex). A 10 ml
of hair tonic preparation was put in a large tube (A),
the hair tonic was then sucked using a ller pump
until it exceeded the limit of line 1 (b). The hair tonic
ow was observed at the boundary line 1 (b) and line
boundary 2 (a) while measuring the ow- rate of hair
tonic using a stopwatch(16).
Particle Size Analysis..The particle size analysis
(PSA) (HORIBA.SZ-100 for Windows Z type) was
preheated for ± 20 minutes before running the samples.
The rst procedure, a standard solution of 20 dilutions
was.shaken using a vortex mixer for ± 1 minute, then
put in a clean cuvette until it was lled with 2/3 cuvette.
The cuvette is inserted into the device and closed with
a sensor, then the temperature is.conditioned at 25˚C
by pressing the “Temp Panel” menu..The standard
starts to be measured.by pressing the "Auto1" menu,
then the tool will automatically measure the size of the
particle..The next procedure uses an automatic method
with a sharp distribution form. The second procedure
is.carried out in the same way as the rst procedure,.
but the distribution graph settings are replaced with
sharp shapes(17).
Data Analysis. The collected data of organolep-
tic and homogeneity test, pH, density, and viscocity
were analysed using simple linear regression with a
signicant value at P<0,05. Data of the particle size
were statistically analysed using a Wilcoxon Test,
while data of the hair length were determined using
and average growth daily gain (AGD) (equation 2)
calculation followed by One Way ANOVA analysis.
Data processing was performed using SPSS software.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Physical Characterization. The organoleptic
of hair tonic combination of cinnamon essential oil
(Cinnamomum burmanii) with VCO (virgin coconut
oil).has a slightly thick liquid dosage form (Figure 1),
with dierent colours and aromas produced between
formulas, the higher the concentration of cinnamon
essential oil, the clearer and more fragrant the aroma
will be strong in the resulting formula 3 preparation.
The increase in the stronger aroma occurs due to the
presence of the compound cinnamaldehyde which is
the largest compound in cinnamon essential oil(18).
The homogeneity test on the three hair tonic
formulas showed that there were no coarse grains
in the object glass that was dripped with hair tonic.
This shows that the three hair tonic formulas have a
homogeneous composition. Homogeneous hair tonic
preparations are caused by the long stirring during
the mixing process, the stirring time can increase
the contact time between the ingredients so that the
preparation becomes homogeneous(19).
pH test is carried out to determine the acidity level
of the hair tonic, it will causes irritate when applied
to the scalp. Acidid pH value of hair tonic will causes
irritation and if it is too alkaline it can cause coconut
skin to become scaly(20). The pH value of the three hair
tonic formulations showed in the range of 3.0-7.0, It
can be concluded that the hair tonic has suitable pH
for the scalp and hair tonic pH requirements. Cinnam-
aldehyde in cinnamon essential oils has an acidic pH
of 4.7(18, 21). It concluded that the higher concentration
of cinnamon essential oil resulted in a decrease in
the pH value sequentially from F1, F2, and F3 due to
the increasing amount of cinnamon essential oil in the
preparation (Table 1).
Cinnamon essential oil has several ingredients,
such as 3%-8% cinnamic acid and 68.3%-82% cin-
namladehyde. Cinnamladehyde in cinnamon essential
oil has an acidic pH of 4.7(18, 21). It can be explained
that the higher the concentration of cinnamon essential
oil used, the lower the pH value.
Density is the ratio between mass and density of
water at a certain temperature. It can describe the ease
of preparation of hair tonic to be poured. The type of
liquid dosage form is good if it has a value close to the
density of water(22). The results of the measurement of
density on the three hair tonic formulations showed
an increase in specic gravity along with an increase
in the concentration of cinnamon essential oil (Figure
2). A hair tonic is said to have a good density if it
has a specic gravity value close to water. Water has
a density of 0.99713 at a temperature of 25°C(23). The
density of all formulas showed values that were close
to water which indicated that the hair tonic prepara-
tion was easy to pour. Based on SNI 06-3734-2006,
cinnamon essential oil has a density at 20°C of 1.008-
1.030. The conclusion, increasing the concentration
Figure 1. Organoleptic formula 1 (a), formula 2 (b),
and formula 3 (c).

HEROWETI ET AL. Jurnal Ilmu Kefarmasian Indonesia
189
Viscosity test was conducted to determine the.
resistance of the hair tonic combination when owing.
The higher value of the solution viscosity, resulting
thicker solution. Thick hair tonic will cause crust on
the scalp.that can cause dandru..A good hair tonic has
a low viscosity, that it produces a liquid preparation(16).
The hair tonic viscosity test was carried out using an
oviscometer because the liquid hair tonic dosage form.
was slightly thick. Viscosity values in the three hair
tonic formulations showed an increase in viscosity
along with increasing variations in the concentration
of cinnamon essential oil (5% concentration). Based
on the research of (24) the viscosity of the hair tonic
of eucalyptus essential oil increased along with
the increase in the concentration eucalyptus in the
concentration of eucalyptus essential oil. So that the
research is in accordance with the reference, namely
the higher the concentration of cinnamon essential oil,
the higher the viscosity value sequentially from F1,
F2, and F3 (Figure 3).
of cinnamon essential oil will increase the value of
specic gravity of hair tonic preparations. Therefore,
it can be concluded that cinnamon essential oil can
aect the density of hair tonic preparations (Figure 2).
Concentration
pH range
Average ± SD
Replication 1
Replication 2
Replication 3
1 %
6.02
6.09
6.06
6.05±0.035
3 %
5.95
5.95
5.90
5.93±0.028
5 %
5.60
5.75
5.75
5.70±0.086
Table 1. pH test of hair tonic.
Particle Size Analysis Test. Based on the physi-
cal stability test of the essential oil combination hair
tonic preparations of cinnamon with VCO it can be
concluded that formula.1 (1%) has a cloudy white
colour, smell of cinnamon, homogeneous, and physi-
cally unstable because the pH and viscosity.showed
a significant difference in results during storage.
Formula 2 (3%) has a clear colour, a characteristic
odor of wood sweet, homogeneous, and stable during
storage, while Formula 3 (5%) has a clear colour, a
distinctive cinnamon odour, homogenous and physi-
cally unstable because pH show the result that there
is a dierence physically meaning during storage.
Hair tonic in Formula 2 (F2) with a concentration of
3% cinnamon essential oil was chosen to be tested for
particle size because it has good physical stability for
6 cycles. These results indicate that hair tonic formula
2 with a concentration of 3% cinnamon essential oil
falls into the microemulsion size range of 20-200 nm. The
particle size results were analysed using the wilcoxon
test and showed that there was no dierence between
cycle 0 and cycle 6 because the signicance was 0.05.
The polydispersity index (PI) value is used to de-
scribe the variation in the sample. If the value of the
polydispersity index is small, that is <0.1, it indicates
that the sample is monodispersion.The polydispersity
index value in F2 cycle 1 is replication 1 0.335 and
replication 2 0.448. While the value of Polydispersity
index F2 in cycle 6, namely replication 1 0.453 and
replication 2 0.465. The results of the polydispersity
index value in F2 cycles 0 and 6 showed that the level
of uniformity of globule size in the microemulsion was
still low because <0.1. The results of the Polydispersity
index were analysed using the wilcoxon test statistic
and showed that there was no dierence between
cycles 0 and 6 because the signicance was 0.05.
Hair Growth Activity Test. Ethical clearance
with no 7/I/2022/Bioethics commission has been
issued by the Medical/Health Research Bioethics
Commission, Faculty of Medicine, Sultan Agung
University..The animals were acclimatized for 1 week.
The hair on the back of each rabbits was shaved, then
divided into 6 areas, each 3x3 cm2, and with distance
between areas of approximately 1 cm.
The average hair length diagram can be seen in
Figure 4. Based on the data, it can be seen that the
normal control had the smallest average hair length of
1.11 mm on the 3rd day and 5.13 mm on the 18th day.
The third treatment group, formula 3 (5% cinnamon
Figure 2. Curve of specic gravity value of hair tonic
preparation.
Figure 3. Viscosity value curve for hair tonic
preparation.

HEROWETI ET AL. Jurnal Ilmu Kefarmasian Indonesia
190
essential oil: 2.5% VCO) had the highest mean hair
length, which was 5.93 mm on the 3rd day and 14.54
mm on the 18th day. The results of the average hair
length have not been able to explain the actual situa-
tion regarding how big the eect of giving a hair tonic
combination of cinnamon essential oil with VCO on
rabbit hair growth per day. Therefore, the calculation
is carried out using the average growth daily gain
(AGD) formula. The existence of these calculations
can provide an explanation that is closer to the actual
situation regarding the eect of giving a hair tonic
combination of cinnamon essential oil.with VCO on
rabbit hair growth per day.
The diagram of the average hair length per day
based on the AGD calculation can be seen in Figure 5.
The results of the hair tonic activity test for the com-
bination of cinnamon essential oil with VCO. based
on the AGD calculation show that hair tonic formula 3
(5% cinnamon essential oil: 2.5% VCO) has the largest
mean AGD value, which is 0.58 mm. Based on these
results, it can be said that the hair tonic combination of
5% cinnamon essential oil with 2.5% VCO has a hair
growth speed of 0.58 mm per day. Where as shown
in table I formula 3 has the highest concentration of
essential oils compared to other formulas. Meanwhile,
the average AGD hair tonic formula 2 (3% cinnamon
essential oil: 2.5% VCO) and formula 1 (1% cinnamon
essential oil: 2.5% VCO) respectively were below
formula 3 (5% VCO). cinnamon essential oil: 2.5%
VCO) ie 0.51 mm and 0.48 mm.
Positive control is needed in this study to deter-
mine whether the hair tonic preparation of a combi-
nation of cinnamon essential oil with VCO.has the
same hair growth activity as the positive control.
The positive control used was Regrou® hair tonic
containing 2% minoxidil because it has been used as
a hair growth medicine for more than 20 years(25). The
average positive control AGD value was 0.52 mm,
so it can be said that positive control could acceler-
ate rabbit hair growth by 0.52 mm per day. Formula
3 has an average AGD value that is greater than the
positive control, while formula 1 and formula 2 have
an average AGD value that is smaller than the positive
control. The negative control was used to determine
whether the hair tonic preparation base also had hair
growth activity. The negative control had an average
AGD value of 0.34 mm, so it could be interpreted
that the negative control could accelerate the rabbit's
hair growth by 0.34 mm per day. Formula 1, formula
2, and formula 3 have an average AGD value greater
than the negative control.
Normal control (without treatment) was used
to ensure that the results of hair growth activity. in
the treatment group were the result of the eect of
the treatment. Normal control has the smallest mean
AGD value of 0.27 mm, so it can be interpreted that
normal control has a rabbit hair growth rate of 0.27
mm per day. The small AGD value obtained by the
normal control group was due to the absence of an
active compound that can accelerate hair growth, so
that hair grows scientically. Formula 1, formula 2,
and formula 3 have an average AGD value greater
than the normal control.
Hair length measurement data based on AGD
calculations was then analysed using statistics. This
is to determine the dierences in hair growth activity
in each treatment group. Based on statistical analysis
using One Way Anova, a signicance value of 0.271
(> 0.05) was obtained. Therefore, it can be interpreted
that there is no signicant ignicant dierence be-
tween the treatment group that was given a hair tonic
preparation of a combination of cinnamon essential
oil and VCO and the treatment group that was given
a positive control. Based on this analysis, it can be
said that the preparation of hair tonic formula 1 (1%
cinnamon essential oil: 2.5% VCO); formula 2 (3%
cinnamon essential oil: 2.5% VCO); and formula 3
(5% cinnamon essential oil: 2.5% VCO) had hair
growth activity that was not signicantly dierent.
However, when compared with the positive control,
formula 2 and formula 3 has hair growth activity above
the positive control.
The comparison of the concentration of cinnamon
essential oil with the VCO used was determined based
on the trial and error method because there has been no
previous research using cinnamon essential oil in hair
Figure 4. Rabbit hair length chart.
Figure 5. Long mean chart hair per day based on AGD
calculation.

Vol 21, 2023 Jurnal Ilmu Kefarmasian Indonesia `
191
growth preparations. The research results of (5) stated
that giving cinnamon essential oil a concentration of
100% could accelerate the hair growth of rats. Mean-
while, the results of Blegur and Indrawati's research
(2015) state that VCO at a concentration of 100% can
accelerate hair growth more optimally compared to
emulsion preparations containing VCO at concentra-
tions of 50% and 75%. Due to the high concentration
of cinnamon essential oil and VCO which can acceler-
ate hair growth, the researchers suspect that the ratio
of the concentration of cinnamon essential oil to the
VCO used needs to be increased.
CONCLUSION
Cinnamon essential oil can aect the physical.char-
acteristics of hair tonic preparations. The particle size
results were analysed using the wilcoxon test and
showed that there was no dierence.cycle because the
signicance was 0.05. Hair growth activity test for hair
tonic preparations of a combination of cinnamon es-
sential oil with VCO,.it was concluded that preparation
of hair tonic formula 1 (1% cinnamon essential oil:
2.5% VCO); formula 2 (3%.cinnamon essential oil:
2.5% VCO); and formula 3 (5%.cinnamon essential
oil: 2.5% VCO) had hair growth activity that was not
signicantly dierent. However, when compared with
the positive control, F2 and F3 has hair growth activity
above the positive control.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Thank you for the opportunity given to LP2M Wahid
Hasyim University for the DIPA internal research
grant.
FUNDING
The authors would like to thank Universitas Wahid
Hasyim for funding (grant numbers: 35/LPPM-
UWH/PENELITIAN/INTERDISIPLINER/DIPA-
UWH/2022) for providing laboratory facilities and
technical suport.
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