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International Journal of Basic & Clinical Pharmacology | November-December 2023 | Vol 12 | Issue 6 Page 799
International Journal of Basic & Clinical Pharmacology
Yeskar H et al. Int J Basic Clin Pharmacol. 2023 Nov;12(6):799-804
http://www.ijbcp.com
pISSN 2319-2003 | eISSN 2279-0780
Original Research Article
Formulation and evaluation of a face serum
containing fenugreek extract
Harshal Yeskar1, Prasad Makde1, Shital Anup Tiware2*, Trupti M. Shirbhate3,
Sagar V. Thakre4, Chetan S. Darne5, Jyoti B. Sable6, Komal Khond Warghane7,
Jagdish R. Baheti1
INTRODUCTION
A concentrated solution called serum is frequently used in
cosmetology. In the field of professional cosmetology, the
name originates from itself. In water or oil, the cosmetic
serum is just as potent as any other cream. A concentrated
liquid such as serum is a substance with 10 times as much
organic material as cream. Thus, address the aesthetic
issue as soon as possible.1 The demand for cosmetic items
has increased as a result of the rising expense of living
worldwide. One of the most significant economic
resources is the Malaysian-based cosmetics business.
Cosmetics have become increasingly valuable as
individuals want to maintain their youth and beauty. A skin
care product known as serum comprises a gel, light
moisturizer, or lotion and has the power to deeply enter the
skin to deliver active ingredients. A decent skin serum
could provide your skin elasticity, a smooth texture,
smaller-looking pores and more hydration. All skin care
products, whether they are hydrating, anti-aging, anti-
wrinkle, or serums, should contain antioxidants,
compounds derived from cells and components that
resemble skin. To maintain the healthiest possible skin, all
DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.18203/2319-2003.ijbcp20233189
1Kamla Nehru College of Pharmacy, Butibori, Nagpur, Maharashtra, India
2Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Kamla Nehru College of Pharmacy, Butibori, Nagpur, Maharashtra, India
3Department of Quality Assurance, Kamla Nehru College of Pharmacy, Butibori, Nagpur, Maharashtra, India
4Department of Pharmacognosy, Kamla Nehru College of Pharmacy, Butibori, Nagpur, Maharashtra, India
5Department of Pharmaceutics, Kamla Nehru College of Pharmacy, Butibori, Nagpur, Maharashtra, India
6Department of Oral and Maxillofacial Pathogy, VYWS Dental College and Hospital, Amravati, Maharashtra, India
7Department of Prosthodontics, VYWS Dental College and Hospital, Amravati, Maharashtra, India
Received: 06 July 2023
Revised: 14 August 2023
Accepted: 25 August 2023
*Correspondence:
Shital Anup Tiware,
Email: tiwareshital@gmail.com
Copyright: © the author(s), publisher and licensee Medip Academy. This is an open-access article distributed under
the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial License, which permits unrestricted non-commercial
use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
ABSTRACT
Background: Wrinkles on the face and aging of the skin are an undesirable effect of photodamage and ultraviolet
radiation. Serum has a quick absorption and ability to penetrate deep layers of the skin, as well as a non-oily
finish and a deep formula with a very high amount of active ingredients.
Methods: In this study, we have formulated and evaluated a face serum containing combination of aqueous extract of
fenugreek seed and lemon oil.
Results: Facial serum was tested for its pH, physical appearance, viscosity, microbial testing, cyclic temperature test,
etc. The results of the stability study show that there was no change in visual acuity, homogeneity.
Conclusions: Serum containing Fenugreek extract have been able to cure bacterial infections and inflammations of
facial skin, and other signs also moistens the skin without any side effects making skin soft, smooth and supple.
Keywords: Cosmetic, Anti-inflammatory, Anti-bacterial, Anti-oxidant, Face serum, Fenugreek extract
Yeskar H et al. Int J Basic Clin Pharmacol. 2023 Nov;12(6):799-804
International Journal of Basic & Clinical Pharmacology | November-December 2023 | Vol 12 | Issue 6 Page 800
skin types require these substances.2 In this study we have
formulated and evaluated a face serum containing
combination of aqueous extract of Fenugreek seed and
lemon oil.
Figure 1: Lemon Oil and fenugreek seeds.
Fenugreek: From ancient times, fenugreek, also known as
methi has been utilized as a remedy for a number of
diseases. There are several elements found in fenugreek,
includes Folic acid, Thiamin, Vitamin A, C and K, B6,
Riboflavin, Niacin, iron, magnesium, potassium, zinc,
selenium, calcium, copper and others. Fenugreek is a
nutritious superfood that fights free radical damage,
promotes natural skin radiance and provides excellent
nutrients for your skin. It also helps to balance the pH
levels of your skin. The natural anti-inflammatory,
antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties of fenugreek are
also very advantageous to the health of our skin.
Figure 2: Aqueous extract of Fenugreek and
Fenugreek Serum (F3).
It can be used for many purposes such as for glowing skin,
cleanser, as an anti-aging, for moisturizing skin, reducing
blemishes, dark circles and acne.3 Lemon essential oil has
been found to have a variety of uses for skin. A flexible
element in the cosmetics business due to the advantages of
lemon essential oil. Lemon oil is an efficient element in
many cosmetic and beauty preparations, particularly wash-
off items like soaps, cleansers and hair care products since
it possesses antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, and
astringent characteristics. The use of lemon essential oil in
skincare products can aid in the battle against free radicals
that can cause skin to age prematurely. The high amount
of antioxidants that lemon oil offers when used as an
ingredient in cosmetic skincare formulation, along with its
inherent astringent and antibacterial properties, make it a
very beneficial essential oil for very oily clogged skin
types seeking for a brighter, more evident radiance to the
skin tone. Lemon oil's antiseptic and antibacterial
properties also make it highly useful for cleaning minor
skin wounds, cuts, and abrasions as well as for treating
various microbial skin issues.
METHODS
This in vitro study was conducted in practical laboratories
of Kamla Nehru College of Pharmacy, Butibori, Nagpur
during the period from August 2022 to March 2023.
Drug profile
Active: Fenugreek Seed Extract. Biological Name:
Trigonella foenum-graecum. Classification: Kingdom-
Plantae, Division-Magnoliophyta, Class-Magnoliopsida,
Order-Fabales, Family-Fabaceae, Genus-Trigonella and
Species- foenum-graecum
Biological source
Selection criteria of the sample: a fragrant member of the
pea family (Fabaceae), fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-
graecum), often spelt fenugreek, is utilized for its dried,
flavorful seeds, which are used as a spice. Fenugreek is
cultivated throughout central and southern Europe,
western Asia, India, and northern Africa. It is a native of
southern Europe and the Mediterranean region.1
List of ingredients required for serum: Carbopol 940,
Triethanol amine, Tween 80, Glycerin, Sodium Benzoate,
Water, Lemon oil, Vitamin E, Fenugreek extract. These
chemicals and ingredients were obtained from the practical
laboratories of Kamla Nehru College of Pharmacy,
Butibori, Nagpur, 441108.
Method of extraction
The extraction of fenugreek seeds was done using the
maceration method. To expand the surface area and make
it easier to extract the active ingredients, fenugreek seeds
were first washed, dried, and crushed. The solvent was
distilled water. In a clean container, fenugreek seeds were
crushed and water was added at a ratio of 1:10 (1 part seeds
to 10 parts water). To ensure that the seeds are evenly
dispersed throughout the water, the mixture is swirled. 72
hours are given for the mixture to stand at room
temperature. At this period, the fenugreek seeds' active
ingredients diffuse into the water and produce a fenugreek
extract. To stop the active ingredients in the extract from
degrading, it was kept in a sterile, airtight container out of
the way of direct sunlight.5
Formulation of serum base
Procedure: Carbopol was dispersed in water and allowed
to hydrate by keeping overnight. Triethanol amine was
Yeskar H et al. Int J Basic Clin Pharmacol. 2023 Nov;12(6):799-804
International Journal of Basic & Clinical Pharmacology | November-December 2023 | Vol 12 | Issue 6 Page 801
added at last for desired consistency after adding
remaining ingredients given in the table one by one.
Table 1: Formulation of serum base (100 ml).
Ingredients
F1
F2
F3
Water
QS
QS
QS
Carbopol 940
0.1 g
0.2 g
0.3 g
Triethanol amine
0.3 ml
0.3 ml
0.3 ml
Glycerin
7 ml
7 ml
7 ml
Tween 80
2 ml
2 ml
2 ml
Lemon oil
0.3 ml
0.3 ml
0.3 ml
Vitamin E
1 ml
1 ml
1 ml
Sodium Benzoate
0.1 g
0.1 g
0.1 g
Table 2: Incorporation of fenugreek extract in serum
base (100 ml).
Ingredients
F1
F2
F3
Water
QS
QS
QS
Carbopol 940
0.1 g
0.2 g
0.3 g
Triethanol amine
0.1 ml
0.2 ml
0.3 ml
Glycerin
7 ml
7 ml
7 ml
Tween 80
2 ml
2 ml
2 ml
Lemon oil
0.3 ml
0.3 ml
0.3 ml
Vitamin E
1 ml
1 ml
1 ml
Sodium Benzoate
0.1 g
0.1 g
0.1 g
Fenugreek Extract
5 ml
5 ml
5 ml
Evaluation of the extract
Preliminary phytochemical screening; alkaloids: In order
to determine whether alkaloids are present in the extract,
2ml of the extract and 2ml of Wagner's reagent are
combined. There is evidence of a brownish precipitation
development. As a result, it suggests the presence of
alkaloids.6,7 Cardiac Glycoside: To check for glycosides,
2ml of the extract is diluted in 2ml of chloroform, and then
a layer of strong sulphuric acid is carefully added. Cardiac
glycosides are present where the steroid ring and deep
reddish brown colour meet.6,7 Flavonoids: 2ml of the
extract was mixed with 2ml of 10% lead acetate to
determine whether the extract contains flavonoids. The
occurrence of
flavonoids is indicated by the yellowish green colour.6,7
Saponins: 2 ml of extract and 2 ml of Benedict's reagent
are dissolved for this. Saponins are shown by the colour
blue and black in the precipitate.6,7 Tanins: 2 ml of the
extract is reacted with 0.1% ferric chloride to determine
the presence of tannins. The amount of tannins is indicated
by the brownish-green coating.6,7 Terpenoids (Salkowski
test): Concentrated sulphuric acid is cautiously added to
produce a layer after 2 ml of extract has been gently diluted
in 2ml of chloroform to check for the presence of
terpenoids. The colour is reddish brown, which denotes the
existence of terpenoids.6,7 Anthraquinone: 1 ml of
fenugreek seed extract is cooked with 10%HCL for a short
period of time in a pot of boiling water to determine the
existence of anthraquinones. It is then filtered and given
time to cool. The filtrate is mixed with an equal amount of
CHCL3, several drops of 10% ammonia, and heated.
Anthraquinones are observed to have a rose-pin colour,
considered to be a sign of their existence.6,7 Reducing
Sugar: Purified water was added to the extract, which was
then shaken. After boiling Fehling's solutions A and B with
the filtrate for a short period of time, an orange-red
precipitate shows the presence of reduced sugars.6,7
Glycoside: Extract is hydrolyzed with HCL solution and
neutralized with NAOH solution to detect this. Some few
drops of Fehling's solutions A and B are added; the
occurrence of glycosides is indicated by the colour red.6,7
Evaluation of face serum
In-vitro Study; Colour and Appearance: Visual
observations was made of the formulation’s colour and
appearance. Homogeneity: The formulation was created
using the evenly distributed extract. This was supported by
both tactile and visual cues.8 pH determination: Apparatus
used was pH meter, typically with glass electrode,
Principle: Serum formulations are designed for topically
applied use. Thus, their pH should be comparable to skin.
The pH of the skin serum must be between 5 and 9 because
the skin has an acidic pH range. Chemical inertness, or the
fact that a skin serum shouldn't be either excessively acidic
or too alkaline, is crucial to ensuring that it has the
requisite shelf life. The typical pH of skin should be
between 4 and 5.5 based on the aforementioned statement,
Procedure: The serum formulation was taken in a beaker
and pH was determined using a pH meter after calibrating
the equipment with the standard buffer solution. The glass
rod was dipped in the serum samples and their pH were
noted.4 Viscosity determination, Apparatus: Brook Field
Viscometer, Principle: The most crucial factor in a
cosmetic product's assessment is viscosity. Many
characteristics, including spreadability and pourability of
the substance from the container, are governed by
viscosity. As a variety of factors, including changes in
temperature, modifications to the production process, and
the quality of the raw materials, can impact viscosity.
Thus, it is crucial to determine the product's viscosity,
Procedure: Spindle No. 4 of a brook field viscometer was
used to measure the viscosity of the serum, and all of the
working parameters were then established. The final value
will be the mean of the next five readings, which were
obtained at various rpm. At 6 rpm and 3 rpm, the viscosity
was measured in cps.4 Cyclical temperature study: These
evaluations are not conducted at a constant temperature or
humidity level. In this experiment, the temperature was
cycled daily, for instance, low-high-low-high, to simulate
regular temperature fluctuations.1 Microbial examination
of the serum: The formulated serum was inoculated into
agar medium plates, and control was created by leaving
out the cream. The plates were put in the incubator
and kept at 37°C for 24 hours. Plates were removed from
the incubation time and checked for microbial growth by
comparing them to the control.9 Antimicrobial assay: The
agar-well diffusion method was used to conduct a test that
Yeskar H et al. Int J Basic Clin Pharmacol. 2023 Nov;12(6):799-804
International Journal of Basic & Clinical Pharmacology | November-December 2023 | Vol 12 | Issue 6 Page 802
evaluates the bacterial efficacy of prepared serum. The
commercial Kojic acid serum served as a standard
and positive control. The bacterial isolates of dormant
Staphylococcus aureus were acquired from the Kamla
Nehru College of Pharmacy in Butibori. Four wells on a
plate of agar were pierced using a gel borer. The agar bed
had the bacterial strain evenly dispersed across it. Three
wells above the agar bed were loaded with serum samples
using a micropipette, and one well was filled with
commercial Kojic acid serum. The different values of the
inhibition zone have been recorded and assessed after 24
hours of incubation at 37⁰C.10,11
RESULTS
Results of current investigation are as depicted in tables
and figures below.
Table 3: Preliminary phytochemical screening.
Phytochemicals
Inference
Alkaloids
++
Cardiac Glycosides
++
Flavonoids
++
Saponins
++
Tanins
++
Terpenoids
++
Anthraquinone
--
Reducing Sugar
++
Glycosides
++
++ Shows the presence of the phytochemical, -- Shows the
absence of the phytochemical
Table 4: Physical evaluation of face serum.
Colour
Cloudy white
Odour
Citrus
Texture
Silky water
Homogeneity
Good
Table 5: pH determination of the Serum incorporated
with the extract.
Formulations
pH
F1
4.9
F2
4.7
F3
5.1
Microbial examination of the serum
The absence of a zone of inhibition after being inoculated
on agar proved that the formulation was devoid of
microorganisms.
Antimicrobial assay
From the results it was found that all formulations have
satisfactory inhibition of microbial growth. It was
observed that among all the samples the inhibition rate of
third sample F3 was greater.
Figure 3: Viscosity determination of the Serum
incorporated with the extract.
Table 6: Cyclical temperature study.
Parameters
F1
F2
F3
Freeze Temperature
Stable
Unstable
Stable
Room Temperature
Stable
Stable
Stable
High Temperature
Unstable
Stable
Stable
Figure 4: Serum showing no microbial growth in the
agar media.
Figure 5: Zone of inhibition of standard and the
serum.
0
2000
4000
6000
8000
10000
3 rpm 6 rpm
Viscosity
F1 F2 F3
Yeskar H et al. Int J Basic Clin Pharmacol. 2023 Nov;12(6):799-804
International Journal of Basic & Clinical Pharmacology | November-December 2023 | Vol 12 | Issue 6 Page 803
Table 7: Formulations zone of inhibition.
Formulations
Zone of inhibition (mm)
Standard
25
F1
17
F2
19
F3
22
Figure 6: Graphical representation of antimicrobial
activity of the serum formulations.
DISCUSSION
In formulation and evaluation of a serum containing Bee
Venom and Aloe Vera Gel by Ojha et al evaluate that face
serum pH 6.2 as the skin having acidic pH.2 In stability
study the formulation was undertaken stability study for
Physical and Chemical change no considerable variation
were observed. In formulation and evaluation of face
serum Rajdev et al in evaluate the pH of formulation and
it was found to be 6.4 having acidic pH.1 Viscosity is a
critical parameter for tropical formulation, as with low
viscosity have faster clearance than viscous solutions, so
viscocity of face serum found to be 13759 Pascal second
and spreadability of liquid formulation to spread over the
skin and play important role in administration of standard
dose of medicament formulation credibility of face serum
was found to be 5 to 6 cm. So in this formulation and
evaluation we did the evaluation parameters pH, viscosity,
spreadibility very important for serum and it is closely to
all these result for example pH found to be 4
to 4.7 standard values in between the 4 to 6.7.
Spreadibility upto 5 to 6 cm. which provide feeling very
soothing and gives emollient and moisturizing action.
Alghamdi et al in her review article fenugreek a
multipurpose crop: potentialities and improvements
represent that study about analysis of genetic divergence
in fenugreek, genetic variability and correlation studies on
yield and yield components of fenugreek, path coefficient
analysis etc. done properly and according to all these
parameter fenugreek serum also able to give anti-aging
activity and anti-inflammatory activity and so on.3
Sasidharan et al Formulation and evaluation of fairness
serum using polyherbal extracts represent preliminary
phytochemical screening of fenugreek and in our study
also the same parameters are complies and since it shows
excellence in serum activity.8 Haouala et al in 2008 in The
anti-bacterial and anti-fungal role of fenugreek is recently
being shown in study and because of this activity it also
used in serum so that it provide emollient and soothing
property.9-12
Limitations
Limitation of current study was this study was not
performed in human being.
CONCLUSION
The aim of the study was to formulate different herbals
into a serum form for specially, moisturizing, anti-
bacterial and anti-inflammatory activity on facial skin. At
present because of availability of wide range of cosmetic
products in the market, consumers are giving special
attention towards the selection of cosmetics to develop a
well standard formula of the new product, viz. herbal anti-
bacterial serum was formulated by incorporating active
extract of Fenugreek seeds for good anti-bacterial effect.
Thus, conclusion can be made that the serum containing
Fenugreek extract have been able to cure bacterial
infections and inflammations of facial skin, and other signs
also moistens the skin without any side effects m making
skin soft, smooth and supple.
Funding: No funding sources
Conflict of interest: None declared
Ethical approval: The study was approved by the
Institutional Ethics Committee
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Cite this article as: Yeskar H, Makde P, Tiware SA,
Shirbhate TM, Thakre SV, Darne CS, et al.
Formulation and evaluation of a face serum
containing fenugreek extract. Int J Basic Clin
Pharmacol 2023;12:799-804.
