No full-text available
To read the full-text of this research,
you can request a copy directly from the authors.
A Variable Weaving Reed for Producing 3D and Seamless Garments
Abstract
As a parametric medium, weaving contains different parameters. Some of these parameters may be changed, and others are fixed. The orthogonal angle between the weft and warp yarns is considered a fixed parameter. This angle is derived by the weaving reed. The reed determines the warp density and the weave width. This paper introduces the concept of a three-dimensional, variable reed. The reed affects the weaving structure by varying the density of the weft yarns across the woven fabric. Our reed is designed in a way that allows the dents to move back and forth during weaving. Changeable cardboard stencils hold the dents in position. Using the stencils, the reed's dents may create different curves that copy themselves onto the weft yarns. This affects the weave architecture, since the weft yarns may not only be perpendicular to the warp yarns. Our reed allows new structural possibilities and new properties for woven textiles. To illustrate, a case study of a seamless, fully fashioned skirt is presented. In this case study, the length of the weft yarns along the skirt is extended using zigzag stencils, creating a skirt with an A-shape silhouette. The variable reed opens new design possibilities for weaving and may increase efficiency by reducing production steps and decreasing waste for weaved seamless garments.
ResearchGate has not been able to resolve any citations for this publication.
Zero Waste System Thinking: Multimorphic Textile-Forms is situated in the context of the rapidly unfolding environmental crisis and the dominant response to this in the industry - the circular economy. It began by building on existing knowledge around sustainable fashion and textiles, and zero waste design practice. The research program is constructed from three interconnected theories: transition design; post-anthropocentric design; and design as future-making. It adopts a transition design “posture” of holistic zero waste system design to develop processes for garment design and manufacturing.
Zero Waste Systems Thinking: Multimorphic Textile-Forms explores the theoretical, aesthetic and technical development of systems and methods for zero waste textileforms. It presents a range of experimental field tests, as well as interviews and design experiments using a variety of prototyping methods to deepen understanding of the existing context, and to propose methods and theory for a new understanding of the relationship between designer and system, textile and form. Outside of fully fashioned or 3D knitting, methods for simultaneous textile-form design and construction are limited. Conventionally, weaving is a two-dimensional practice – which through cutting and sewing may become form. Cut-and-sew is the most common method of garment construction used in industry; however, it can also be exploitative, time-consuming and wasteful. The current shallow understanding of the relationship between woven textiles and form limits how designers could transform industries and the built environment. This research questions how technology can further shape form-making, and follows some of the lines of inquiry forged by the work of Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara in A-POC, and recent explorations on whole garment weaving by Anna Piper, Jacqueline Lefferts, and Claire Harvey. This research undertook a series of experiments which aimed to expand the form-design methods available for whole garment weaving in the context of zero waste system design. The multimorphic and analogue-digital craft practice develops new understandings of textile design and manufacturing elements, such as jacquard looms and weave structures, for use in micro-manufacturing contexts. Its holistic and disruptive reshaping of form-making has the potential to future-make the industry, our cities and our social fabric.
3D weaving is an industrial process for creating volumetric material through organized multiaxis interlacing of yarns. The overall complexity and rarity of 3D weaving have limited its market to aerospace and military applications. Current textile design software does not address the ease of iterating through physical trialing so necessary for designers to access this medium. This paper describes the development of a series of volumetric textile samples culminating in the creation of a fully formed shoe and the collaboration with computer scientists to develop a visualization tool that addresses the consumer accessory design opportunities for this medium.
There are various manufacturing processes for the interlacement of yarns to produce three-dimensional (3-D) fabric structures as preforms for textile composites. The manufacturing route is determined by the end-use of composites; therefore, the composite industry does not solely rely on one method but a selection of methods for fabric formation. This chapter attempts to make provide a comprehensive overview of fabrication methods that can be used for making 3-D textile woven preforms for composites. There are many different views on what 3-D woven fabrics are, but one common understanding is that 3-D fabrics must have substantial dimension in the thickness direction formed by layers of fabrics or yarns. This chapter classifies 3-D woven textiles into those that can be manufactured on the conventional weaving technology and those that require specially made weaving machines/devices. This chapter attempts to provide useful information for both the textile and composite engineers in developing textile composites for advanced applications.
Purpose
– Development of a technique for weaving seamless three‐dimensional shapes directly on loom is an essential step in producing seamless woven garments. The purpose of this paper is to report a new approach to weaving seamless three‐dimensional shapes.
Design/methodology/approach
– Spacing of warp and weft threads varies in shape region. Reeds with shaped reed wires are developed to change spacing of warp threads. Interlacement pattern of warp and weft threads is selected that assists in changing spacing of threads. The new approach of weaving three‐dimensional shapes in folded form is developed, that offers advantages over weaving shape in erect form.
Findings
– The main findings were mathematical determination of shapes of reed wires to produce a three‐dimensional woven shape and weaving shape in folded form.
Originality/value
– The paper demonstrates how three‐dimensional shapes are woven in folded form without the need of eliminating ends.
The functionalization of fiber-reinforced plastics has been improved continuously in recent years in order to broaden their application potential. By using shape memory alloys in fiber-reinforced plastics, adaptive fiber-reinforced plastics can be developed, which in turn can change their shape depending on the activation of shape memory alloys. In order to ensure the proper force transmission from shape memory alloys to fiber-reinforced plastic, these shape memory alloys need to be integrated into the reinforcing fabric. Hence, this paper presents the application of open reed weaving technology for the development of functionalized preforms for adaptive fiber-reinforced plastics. For an optimized shape memory effect during their thermal induced activation, the shape memory alloys were coated with release agent and then integrated into the woven fabric by open reed weaving technology. The hinged width of functionalized preforms was varied from 50 mm to 150 mm. These preforms were infused by a thermosetting resin matrix system with a modifier. Subsequently, the electro-mechanical testing of adaptive fiber-reinforced plastics was executed. Results show that the maximum deformation of adaptive fiber-reinforced plastics was proportional to their hinged width.
This paper proposes approaches to create shaped woven textiles (SWTs) for seamless woven fashion by designing diverse simple weaves and applying their dimensional changes. A widespread stretch material (spandex) was selected as the main fillings for shape changes. The research introduces the four design parameters of simple weaves for stretch fabrics. Twenty types of specimens in two different configurations of the stretch fillings were then produced. Correlations between the four parameters and dimensional changes of simple weaves were investigated. With respect to dimensional and textural changes, experimental results indicated corresponding divergences of specimens made by the different simple weaves and two types of configurations of fillings. By integrating these shape changeable weaves via jacquard designs, several practical creations illustrated the sculptural capabilities of shaped textiles and aesthetical attributes. This research contributes to the integrated design and manufacture of future woven textiles and fashion.
Development of Textile Effects on Design Using the Open Reed Weaving
- Abdelaziz Shalaby
- H Abdel Moneim Abd Allah Abo Khozaim
AbdelAziz Shalaby, H., & Abdel Moneim Abd Allah Abo Khozaim, A. (2017). Development of Textile Effects on
Design Using the Open Reed Weaving. 221-231.
http://www.ijarse.com/images/fullpdf/1486450051_26_Research_Paper.pdf
Possibilities for preform production using the open reed weaving technology
- C Lenz
- B Wendland
- T Gries
Lenz, C., Wendland, B., & Gries, T. (n.d.). Possibilities for preform production using the open reed weaving
technology.
Ondulé Textiles: Weaving Contours with a Fan Reed
- N Smaida
Smaida, N. (2019). Ondulé Textiles: Weaving Contours with a Fan Reed (G. White (ed.)). Schiffer Craft.