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The Case of Fish Skin: A Historical Material Assimilated as an Innovative Sustainable Material for Fashion
... Markalar, üretim süreci, üretim malzemeleri ve ürünlerin kullanım süreci ve kullanım dışı durumunda olumsuz çevresel etkiyi minimize etmek, tehlikeli kimyasalların salınımını ortadan kaldırmak için tedarikçileriyle birlikte çalışabilecek durumda öncü ve örnek olmalıdır (Greenpeace, 2011). (Palomino & Káradóttir, 2021;Ahmed vd, 2022;Thangavelu & Bala Subramani , 2016). Sürdürülebilir ayakkabı tasarımının, özellikle çevre dostu malzemelerin kullanımı, atık azaltma stratejilerinin uygulanması ve genel çevresel etkilerle ilgili faydaları bu aşamada tarafımızdan değerlendirilmiştir. ...
Küresel ısınma, hava ve su kirliliği, toprak erozyonu, ormanların yok olması, iklim krizi, atıklar ve nüfus artışı etkisiyle üretim ve tüketimin hızlı bir şekilde artış göstermesi dünyanın geleceğini olumsuz etkilemektedir. Sonsuz olmayan hava, su gibi canlı yaşamında gerekli olan doğal kaynakların sürdürülebilirliği için doğa ve insan arasındaki dengeyi sağlayabilmek önemli bir adım olacaktır. Su ve enerji tüketiminin fazla olduğu moda sektörü çevreyi kirleten sektörler arasında ikinci sırada yer almaktadır. Ayakkabı saya ve taban malzemesi olarak kullanılan deri, tekstil ve plastik malzemelerin üretiminden kaynaklanan kirlilik doğa ile dost, geri dönüştürülebilir malzeme arayış ve araştırmalarını yönlendirmiştir. Her endüstride olması gerektiği gibi ayak giysisinin üretiminde de kaynakların kullanımının en aza indirgenmesi, doğru malzeme seçimi ve ürünün uzun ömürlü olması sürdürülebilirlik konusunda kritik değere sahiptir. Bu çalışmada, zorunlu ve yarı dayanıklı tüketim malı olan ayakkabının üretim sektöründeki tasarım aşamasında sürdürülebilirliğe dikkat çekilmek, uygulanma durumunun değerlendirilmesi, geleceğe ilham vermek ve sürdürülebilirliği teşvik etmek amaçlanmıştır. Sektörde sürdürülebilir yaklaşımların ve uygulamalarından örnekler verilmiştir. Çalışma kapsamında sürdürülebilir malzemeler kullanarak özgün tasarım ve üretimi yapılan örnek ayakkabılar içerikte yer almaktadır.
... The use of fish skin to create articles of clothing is an ancient tradition shared by Arctic and Sub Arctic societies along rivers and coasts. This grouping encompasses Iceland to the Sami region in Scandinavia -Sweden, Norway, and Finland -through the Russian Far East, Northeast China, the traditional Ainu islands of Hokkaido in Japan and Sakhalin in Russia, to the North American Arctic in the east (Palomino, 2021). Before synthetic fibres were invented, people clothed themselves with whatever they could -namely the natural materials available in their surroundings -like fish skin (Palomino, 2020). ...
From April to June 2020, during the Covid-19 isolation, Ran Graber, a third-year student of Shenkar University, Tel Aviv, elected to study and remake a 19th century fish skin attush (Ainu robe), under the guidance of Elisa Palomino, Orit Freilich, Ran Kassas and Debbie Elhayeni, as part of the F4*3D course. This small project of individuals-one student, one course, one study, one sample-nevertheless brought together workwear and artwear, utilitarianism and spirituality, ancient tradition/history, contemporary society, and future thinking. It bought together Tel Aviv, London, and Hokkaido-as well as all of you here now, from across the globe. By disseminating the ancient Indigenous Ainu fish skin craft-as exemplified in this robe-to a non-Indigenous student, we were able not only to provide an example of an environmentally sustainable alternative material for fashion, but also, in so doing, to suggest a way of preventing marine pollution by exploiting skins discarded by the food industry that would otherwise be thrown in the sea. We were able to sustain an endangered historic tradition, to bring it to a new arena, and to plant the seeds of its further dissemination as the fashion students graduate and become industry professionals across the world. The paper is centred on the research questions: 'How can we assist fashion students in developing sustainable materials by sharing traditional fish skin craft from Ainu Indigenous Peoples?' 'How can a faculty provide creative new ways of teaching that benefit both staff and students during difficult times?'
Academic research on the Circular Economy has been proliferating at an unprecedented pace during the last decade. However, scholarly work on the topic is dominated by a focus on hard scientific, technical and corporate/business management approaches, leaving the social sciences underrepresented in the relevant literature. This review article covers the current Anglophone social scientific research on the circular economy with special attention to waste. A total of 161 works aligning with the scope of this article were examined. These works were analysed in light of two questions: the reviewed studies’ knowledge interest and the dimension(s) of the CE they gave emphasis to. In result, the articles were charted along two axes: Instrumental/Technical (Quadrant I), Analytical/Technical (Quadrant II), Instrumental/Social (Quadrant III), and Analytical/Social (Quadrant IV). The findings of this review article demonstrate a strong thematic interest related to the circular economy in global, major issues of governance; transition and implementation; consumption and consumer behaviour; as well as the associated logic, concepts and definitions. A weaker thematic interest appeared in relation to the cultural, political and ethical dimensions of the circular economy, while critical engagements with and contestations of the model remain fairly rare. Moreover, the analysis revealed the relative absence of detailed empirical scholarship on the more-than-human relations and the micro-level, local everyday practices through which the circular economy becomes actualised. This review calls for the proliferation of such works currently situated in the margins of the circular economy literature. However, as is finally proposed, a balanced mapping of a circular economy transition would require an approach that would problematise levels, scales and dichotomies like ‘global’ and ‘local’ as categorical givens.
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