No full-text available
To read the full-text of this research,
you can request a copy directly from the authors.
Vers une prise de conscience des enjeux éthiques des matières textiles par les consommateurs dans le cadre de la transition écologique
Being a responsible consumer represents a daily challenge and there are many obstacles to implementing responsible behaviors. Past research has underlined the gap between pro-environmental attitudes and effective behaviors, highlighting obstacles to the adoption of responsible behaviors. However, it has hitherto not looked at the transgressions of consumers who adopt responsible behaviors in their daily lives. To address this gap, our research adopts a qualitative approach, based on semi-directive interviews conducted using the critical incident technique. Our analysis revealed several reasons why responsible consumers transgress their personal norms, and how these “consumer green transgressions” are managed by the responsible consumers. We also established a typology of “consumer green transgressions” based on a double categorization: anticipated versus impulsive transgressions and repetitive versus exceptional transgressions. Finally, we highlighted two “cause(s) → transgression → consequence(s)” trajectories. The results of this research offer several theoretical contributions and managerial implications, including discussing the literature on “green gap.”
Purpose: This article questions the capacity of firms embedded in global value chains to manage their natural resources in a sustainable way. It offers guidelines for more sustainable value chains.
Design/methodology/approach: While business strategies have focused on optimizing natural resource exploitation and on constructing global value chains to face sustainability issues, this article first explains why these strategies are not effective in preventing natural resource depletion. Second, it offers a model for anticipating resource depletion. The cut flower industry constitutes a central case to explain the model. Two other industry cases complement the demonstration.
Findings: To anticipate natural resource depletion and thus improve industry sustainability, firms must shift from the exploitation of endangered natural resources to the use of alternative local ones. This shift, however, encourages firms to reconstruct value chains and rethink how they create value within these new value chains. It also has an impact on firms’ growth strategy: they must replicate value chains on a local scale instead of taking part in global value chains.
Originality: This article offers a model of sustainable growth for firms willing to anticipate natural resource depletion by offering a shift in value chains. It consists of exploiting alternative natural resources and of rethinking the value offered to consumers. Thus, it goes against current models that merely focus on optimizing natural resource exploitation within global value chains.
Research limitations/implications: The findings rely on illustrations from the cut flower, fishing and textile fiber industries. Generalization to other industries may strengthen the argument.
Controversy exists regarding the scale of the impacts caused by fast fashion. This article aims to provide a robust basis for discussion about the geography, the scale and the temporal trends in the impacts of fast fashion because the globalisation of the fashion industry means original, peer-reviewed, quantitative assessments of the total impacts are relatively rare and difficult to compare. This article presents the first application of Eora, a multiregional environmentally extended input output model, to the assessment of the impacts of clothing and footwear value chain. We focus on the key environmental indicators of energy consumption, climate and water resources impacts, and social indicators of wages and employment.
The results of the analysis indicate that the climate impact of clothing and footwear consumption rose from 1.0 to 1.3 Gt carbon dioxide equivalent over the 15 years to 2015. China, India, the USA and Brazil dominate these figures. The trends identified in this and the other indicators represent small increases over the study period compared to the 75% increase in textile production, meaning that the impacts per garment have improved considerably. On the other hand, the climate and water use impacts are larger as a proportion of global figures than the benefits provided via employment and wages. Our analysis of energy consumption suggests most of the per-garment improvement in emissions is the result of increased fashion-industrial efficiency, with a lesser role being played by falling carbon intensity among energy suppliers. While both the social benefits and environmental impacts per mass of garment appear to have decreased in recent times, much greater improvements in the absolute carbon footprint of the fashion industry are attainable by eliminating fossil-fueled electricity supplies, and by eliminating fast fashion as a business model.
With an increase in ethical awareness, people have begun to criticize the unethical issues associated with the use of animal materials. This study focused on the transition of global consumers’ awareness toward vegan materials and the relationship between the interest in ethical subjects such as animals, the environment, and vegan materials. For this purpose, consumers’ posts about fur/fake fur and leather/fake leather uploaded on Google and Twitter from 2008 to 2019 were utilized, and the Term Frequency-Inverse Document Frequency (Tf-idf) value was extracted using Python 3.7. Furthermore, the worldwide Google keyword search volume of each word was analyzed using Smart PLS 3.0 to investigate global consumers’ awareness. First, with time, consumers began relating animal materials such as fur and leather to topics such as animal rights, animal abuse, and animal protection. Second, as interest in “animal welfare” increased, interest in “fake fur” also rose, and as interest in “cruelty free” increased, interest in “fake fur”, “vegan fur”, and “vegan leather” also increased. Third, as consumers’ interest in the “environment” increased, interest in vegan materials such as “fake fur” and “fake leather” decreased. However, as interest in “eco” increased, interest in “vegan leather” also augmented.
The textile and fashion industry has had significant technological developments but is currently criticised for its environmental and social impacts and for being a major contributor to waste. The rise of the circular economy (CE) has promoted more sustainable concepts, including the trending of recycling strategies to add value to the textile and plastic waste. However, adding value to products and for users implies technical upscaling and clear communication about the benefits of recycling. This paper presents a systematic literature review (SLR) and explores the state of the art of recycled textiles (RT) and circular fashion (CF) as perceived by humans. The literature review was performed on the basis of journal articles, book chapters, and conference papers using the ScienceDirect (SD) and Web of Science (WoS) databases. The review identified that a significant proportion of consumers from different countries have a basic understanding of sustainable products but that there have been differences in consumers’ attitudes towards sustainable purchase, use, consumption, and post-purchase behaviour. Diverse and even contradictory results occurred concerning the relationships between RT and CF and their perceived product attributes in terms of quality and functionality, as well as social-cultural factors. Manufacturers’ and brands’ perceived values of RT were observed to be influenced by different factors on the basis of the recycling system and cultural values, while designer attitudes towards sustainability were observed to be influenced by external factors. This review contributes to the creation of three main implications in terms of environmental impact and awareness, including actions and concrete proposals for RT and CF.
The apparel industry, which includes the clothing/garment sector, encompasses the supply chain of clothing and garments, starting with the textile and fashion industry, all the way to fashion retailers and the trade with second-hand clothes and textile recycling. This sector is characterized by substantial wastes, which may be minimized by means of textile recycling. This paper reports on the results of an international study on sustainable clothing consumption. This paper identifies and analyzes attitudes and behaviors regarding the clothing industry in a sample of 203 individuals. The results suggest a number of trends. Firstly, they show the complexity of purchase habits. The reasons why individuals dispose of their old or not used clothes are manifold, and include objective and subjective factors. Also, the paper illustrates the existence of disparities in respect of clothing use and disposal behavior. Finally, the results suggest that there is a need for more awareness-raising initiatives, in order to make consumers more conscious about the options available and the need for a more sustainable use of clothing.
The fashion industry is the second largest industrial polluter after aviation, accounting for up to 10% of global pollution. Despite the widely publicized environmental impacts, however, the industry continues to grow, in part due to the rise of fast fashion, which relies on cheap manufacturing, frequent consumption and short-lived garment use. In this Review, we identify the environmental impacts at critical points in the textile and fashion value chain, from production to consumption, focusing on water use, chemical pollution, CO2 emissions and textile waste. Impacts from the fashion industry include over 92 million tonnes of waste produced per year and 1.5 trillion litres of water consumed. On the basis of these environmental impacts, we outline the need for fundamental changes in the fashion business model, including a deceleration of manufacturing and the introduction of sustainable practices throughout the supply chain, as well a shift in consumer behaviour — namely, decreasing clothing purchases and increasing garment lifetimes. These changes stress the need for an urgent transition back to ‘slow’ fashion, minimizing and mitigating the detrimental environmental impacts, so as to improve the long-term sustainability of the fashion supply chain.
This paper explores the role played by female perceptions of garment quality in relation to how long clothing is kept and how it is used. It considers perceptions of quality in relation to implications for sustainability in fashion. The research involves two phases of empirical data collection conducted in the UK. The first phase draws on a subset of findings from a 12-month laundry study that surveyed the use and laundering of 32 different garments across a group of 16 women. The second phase comprises a semi-structured interview study with 13 women and focuses on exploring factors that influence garment lifetimes. The central contributions of this paper are the distinctions it makes between the immediate concepts of clothing quality that are understood as “pre-use” to those more gradually developed experiences of quality learnt “during use.” In use, garments are tied into user practices and as such become woven into the actions and experiences of everyday life. The length of time garments are worn and kept is more closely connected to how quality is experienced subjectively by the user than understood within objective industry-based definitions of quality. In relation to sustainability, this suggests new directions for understanding quality with emphasis on user behavior.
The aim of this work was to map and understand the current environmental impact of
Swedish clothing consumption. A life cycle assessment (LCA) was used to evaluate the
environmental impact of six garments: a T-shirt, a pair of jeans, a dress, a jacket, a pair
of socks, and a hospital uniform, using indicators of climate impact (also called “carbon
footprint”), energy use, water scarcity, land use impact on soil quality, freshwater
ecotoxicity, and human toxicity. The environmental impact of the six garments was then
scaled up to represent Swedish national clothing consumption over one year.
Sustainability in marketing has gained some traction over the years, yet we still remain uncertain about exactly what ‘sustainability marketing’ means. Utilising the Scopus database, a discourse analysis was conducted on nearly 200 published journal articles. The analysis categorises multiple sustainability views and outlines three conceptualisations of sustainability marketing: Auxiliary Sustainability Marketing (which focusses on the production of sustainable products), Reformative Sustainability Marketing (which extends the auxiliary approach through the promotion of sustainable lifestyles and behavioural changes) and Transformative Sustainability Marketing (which further extends the auxiliary and reformative approaches through the need for transformation of current institutions and norms, and critical reflection). This paper then discusses how these three conceptualisations might be used by scholars and practitioners to interpret and implement sustainability marketing going forward. Please visit my personal website for more details and access. https://drjkemper.weebly.com
Categories participate in the construction of markets by defining their producers, consumers and substitutable goods. Until now, research on categories has mainly focused on their effects, overlooking questions relating to their emergence. This article fills this gap by studying the role of a trade fair, the Ethical Fashion Show, in shaping ethical fashion. Based on a qualitative analysis of interviews, secondary data, observations and physical objects, it studies the practices aimed at elaborating the critical project of ethical fashion, defining its principles and diffusing the category. Four contributions stem from this research. First, it reveals the role of critiques in the emergence of categories. Second, it shows that their content is shaped by practices of purification and hybridisation. Third, it highlights the role of spokespersons in the representation of categories. Fourth, drawing on actor–network theory, it theorises market categorisation as a process of translation.
Purpose
Despite supposed widespread consumer support for ethical clothing, it still often fails to translate into actual purchase. The purpose of this paper is to determine whether the way in which academics have defined and measured ethical clothing could account for this.
Design/methodology/approach
An over reliance on convenience sampling and the use of student samples has also been touted as a possible reason for this attitude-behaviour gap. To address this, this study employed a consumer household sample. It also used a quantitative survey approach to collect its data and structural equation modelling to analyse it.
Findings
In contrast to the way in which academics have conceptualised the construct, consumer perceptions of ethical clothing were found to be influenced by four dimensions: environmental responsibility, employee welfare, animal welfare and slow fashion attributes.
Originality/value
Ethical clothing has typically been operationalised using just two of these four dimensions. Ironically, one of the two dimensions often overlooked by academics – animal welfare – had the strongest influence on consumer perceptions. Previous academic efforts had never employed more than three dimensions, and yet the results of this study suggest that all four must be present if an item of clothing is to be regarded as “ethical”.
Résumé
Les catégories participent à la construction des marchés en définissant les producteurs, les consommateurs et les produits substituables. Jusqu’à présent, la littérature sur le sujet s’est concentrée sur les effets des catégories au détriment de leur émergence. Cette recherche comble cette limite en étudiant le rôle du salon Ethical Fashion Show dans la formation de la catégorie mode éthique. Sur la base d’une analyse qualitative d’entretiens, de données secondaires, d’observations et d’objets, elle analyse les pratiques visant à formaliser le projet critique de la mode éthique, à définir ses principes et à diffuser la catégorie. L’article offre quatre contributions. Il révèle le rôle de la critique dans l’émergence des catégories. Il montre que leur contenu est façonné par des pratiques de purification et d’hybridation. Il éclaire le rôle des porte-paroles dans la diffusion des catégories. Enfin, en s’inspirant de la théorie de l’acteur-réseau, il théorise la catégorisation comme un processus de traduction.
Bien qu’une réelle « ère de développement durable» semble régner dans les sociétés occidentales, des recherches naissantes font état de réserves à l’égard de l’usage de l’argument durable dans le secteur du luxe. À l’aide d’entretiens individuels auprès de 39 consommateurs français de produits de luxe, cet article identifie les sources de dissonance entre luxe et développement durable. Celles-ci se regroupent autour de trois volets: les dimensions du concept (partage, qualité, rationalité, altruisme), le volet environnemental (préservation des ressources), et le volet social (égalité sociale, justice au niveau de l’emploi, bien-être animal). Les résultats permettent aussi de préciser les modes de réduction de la dissonance adoptés par les consommateurs, puis de proposer des recommandations aux entreprises.
Mots-clés: développement durable, dissonance, perception des consommateurs, produits de luxe.
The authors propose that mindfulness is an antidote to mindless consumption, which adversely affects individual and collective well-being. The concept of mindfulness is explained and applied to the consumption context. More specifically, the authors examine mindful consumption as an ongoing practice of bringing attention, with acceptance, to inner and outer stimuli, and the effects of this practice on the consumption process. The transformative potential of mindful consumption is reviewed across domains of consumer, societal, and environmental well-being, with suggestions for future research. The article highlights some of the challenges to realizing the transformative potential of mindful consumption and concludes with suggestions for the actions that consumers, institutions, and policy makers could take to promote mindful consumption.
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to examine what the term sustainable fashion means from the perspective of micro-organisations, experts, and consumers.
Design/methodology/approach
This research is qualitative in nature, utilising a multi-methods case study approach (semi-structured interviews, semiotics, questionnaires). Grounded analysis was applied to analyse the data.
Findings
Findings indicate that interpretation of sustainable fashion is context and person dependent. A matrix of key criteria provides the opportunity to find common elements.
Research limitations/implications
Due to the nature of this research the sample size is limited and may not be generalised. Data were collected in the UK and are limited to a geographical region.
Practical implications
An important implication is that defining sustainable fashion is vital in order to avoid challenges, such as greenwashing, which were faced in other industries that have a longer history in sustainable practices. Micro-organisations should take advantage of identifying key sustainable fashion criteria, which will enable them to promote their fashion collections more effectively.
Social implications
The criteria identified provide assurance for consumers that sustainable fashion is produced with social aspects in mind (fair wages, good working conditions).
Originality/value
The paper proposes a matrix that allows micro-organisations to clearly identify their collections as sustainable.
Definitions of ethical fashion have a strong focus on the responsibility of the providers and the consumers of unethical fashion items. This paper argues that such understandings of the problems and solutions ignore important aspects. To provide a clearer picture of the situation, this paper identifies the relevant actors and their mutual influences.
The growth in ethical consumption behaviour and greater interest in sustainable fashion from
a production side provides grounding for the emergence of a new consumer market for
sustainable fashion. To date however most studies in this field focus on the production end of
the emerging market, with little exploration of the consumers. Of the work there is on
sustainable fashion consumption, the majority discuss perceptions of sustainable fashion by
the general population, with little work sampling actual consumers of sustainable fashion.
Therefore, the purpose of this study is to explore the values and motivations underpinning
actual sustainable fashion consumption. 39 in-depth interviews were conducted with a sample
of frequent sustainable clothing consumers. The study follows a means-end theory approach
linking purchased products back to purchasing criteria and personal values. This study
therefore contributes to the overall understanding of sustainable fashion consumption and
gives insights into purchasing criteria and behavioural choices of sustainable fashion
consumers.
Cet article propose une synthèse critique comparant les recherches francophones sur le bien-être du consommateur (BEC) et les travaux portant sur le well-being anglo-saxon issus de la Transformative Consumer Research (TCR). Après l’identification du positionnement et des thématiques propres à chacune des deux perspectives, nous questionnons l’ancrage culturel relatif à chaque approche. Au terme de cette synthèse, nous discutons les résultats de notre analyse et proposons des perspectives et voies de recherches futures.
Within the course of the theory of cultural consumption (CCT), this research aims to enlighten on the relationship between the consumer to hir or her system of consumption. The first part, qualitative, attempts to describe the nature of the relationship between the consumer and his or her system (the wardrobe in our case) through an anthropological study and a semiotic study. The data was collected by way of observation (video and audio taped) during usage experiences. The second part, quantitative, measures separately the sedimentation of value linked to usage and shopping experiences. Applied to the clothing market, results show the value of the organisational and systemic concerns (which merges with the utilitarian aspects of value). Three tools are adapted and applied in order to construct a segmentation of consumers. The data allows us to confirm the reliability of our measurement scales and to suggest typologies based on usage and shopping, experiences which underlines the real link between the two consumption experiences as long as we take into account the system of consumption.
Criticizing marketing is easy, and its detractors are doing a good job of it. But going beyond and proposing an approach, tools and a vision for change is another matter altogether. Diane Martin and John Schouten have embraced the task. They explore the path of sustainable marketing with a view to transforming consumption practices and, more broadly, to achieving a new material culture supporting sustainable development principles.
• Objectifs/questions de recherche Les matières premières d’origine animale ont été depuis longtemps étroitement liées au luxe. Si leur utilisation dans ce secteur a été rarement remise en cause, la situation a changé et beaucoup d’entreprises s’inquiètent aujourd’hui de voir leur image écorchée par des scandales de maltraitance animale. Dans ces conditions, le remplacement de ces matières par des alternatives plus responsables peut-il être envisagé ? Cet article se propose d’apporter des éléments de réponse à cette question. • Méthodologie/approche Cette recherche mobilise une approche qualitative. Des entretiens ont été conduits en France auprès de 21 consommateurs et 13 professionnels du secteur du luxe. • Résultats Sur la base de la théorie du signal coûteux et l’orientation des valeurs sociales, nos résultats montrent une réticence vis-à-vis de l’utilisation de matériaux alternatifs dans les produits de luxe. Les matériaux d’origine animale continuent à être préférés parce qu’ils répondent mieux aux besoins de qualité et de confort de certains consommateurs et d’ostentation pour d’autres. • Implications managériales/sociétales Les résultats permettent d’identifier les actions à conduire pour : (1) continuer à utiliser les matières premières d’origine animale tout en protégeant la marque d’associations négatives, et (2) surmonter les sources de réticence des consommateurs par rapport aux matériaux alternatifs. • Originalité Il s’agit de l’une des toutes premières études sur le sujet de l’utilisation des peaux et fourrures animales dans le secteur du luxe. Elle vient en ce sens enrichir la littérature sur le lien entre le luxe et le développement durable.
Comment revisiter son quotidien dans une démarche de consommation sobre ? La sobriété est une posture, une attitude morale, une façon d'être en relation au monde qui se traduit dans de multiples façons de faire et de consommer. Elle peut faire suite à une rupture ou à une prise de conscience que « quelque chose » dans notre façon de vivre n'est plus aligné avec l'état de la planète et du monde. Ce livre nous propose de plonger au cœur de ce sujet de société. Il rend compte des questionnements qu'ouvre une démarche de sobriété dans la consommation ainsi que des manière de devenir sobre par de nombreux témoignages de femmes et d'hommes qui s'y sont lancés. Qu'est-ce qui a déclenché leur démarche ? Comment l'ont-ils vécue intimement ? Comment se sont-ils positionnés à l'égard de leur entourage qui n'a pas toujours les mêmes valeurs ? L'ouvrage s'adresse à toute personne intéressée de s'interroger sur un autre rapport au monde que la surconsommation. Sa lecture questionnera également les étudiants en marketing, les doctorants en quête de conceptualiser un phénomène et les organisations soucieuses de comprendre cette façon d'être et de faire qu'est la sobriété.
Purpose
Extending the active lifetimes of garments by producing better quality is a widely discussed strategy for reducing environmental impacts of the garment industry. While quality is an important aspect of clothing, the concept of quality is ambiguous, and, moreover, consumers may perceive quality in individual ways. Therefore, it is important to deepen the general understanding regarding the quality of clothing.
Design/methodology/approach
This paper presents an integrated literature review of the recent discussion of perceived quality of clothing and of the links between quality and clothing lifetimes; 47 selected articles and other literature obtained primarily through fashion/clothing/apparel journals were included in this review.
Findings
The main ideas from the articles are thematized into the following sections: the process of assessment, levels involved in assessment, multidimensional cues of assessment, and quality and clothing use times. The paper highlights that perceiving quality is a process guided by both expectations and experience, and assembles the various aspects into a conceptual map that depicts the connections between the conceptual levels involved in assessing quality. It also illustrates connections between quality and clothing use times.
Research limitations/implications
This paper focused on perceived quality on a conceptual level. Further studies could examine and establish deeper links between quality, sustainability and garment lifespans.
Originality/value
The study draws together studies on perceived quality, presenting the foundational literature and key concepts of quality of clothing. It summarizes them in a conceptual map that may help visualize various aspects affecting the assessment of quality and deepen the general understanding of the quality of garments.
The authors propose that high-end goods, such as luxury apparel, can be more sustainable than mass-market products because they have a longer life-cycle. Across six studies, the authors examine the sustainability of high-end products, investigate consumers’ decision making when considering high-end versus ordinary goods, and identify effective marketing strategies to emphasize product durability, an important and valued dimension of sustainable consumption. Real-world data on new and secondhand accessories demonstrate that high-end goods can be more sustainable than mid-range products because they have a longer life-cycle. Furthermore, consumers engage in more sustainable behaviors with high-end goods, owning them for longer and disposing them in more environmentally friendly manners. Nevertheless, a series of studies shows that many consumers prefer to allocate the same budget on multiple ordinary goods in lieu of fewer high-end products partly because of product durability neglect, a failure to consider how long a product will last. Finally, this research offers actionable strategies for marketers to help consumers overcome product durability neglect and nudge them towards concentrating their budget on fewer high-end, durable products.
Purpose
This paper aims to examine consumer preference for ethical fashion products by focusing on the importance of animal welfare attribute. To explain the attitude-behavior gap, this research proposes to explore the costs and sacrifices associated with the adoption of responsible behaviors.
Design/methodology/approach
To analyze in which manner the animal welfare attribute impacts the consumer preference, the authors carried two quantitative studies in the Italy context. The first one ( n = 224) proposes to measure the importance of this attribute in the case of luxury vs accessible fashion. The second study ( n = 101) examines how the attention given to animal welfare information could vary between prosocials and proselfs. Conjoint analyses that consider “proportion of real fur”; “information about animal treatment” and “price” attributes have been realized. To take into account the individuals characteristics, cluster analysis helped to identify different profiles of consumers.
Findings
The results reveal that even if consumers continue to prefer products made entirely from animal fur, they are sensitive to the information on the animal treatment conditions. Also, the animal welfare is not the most important criterion in explaining preference for a fashion product. This result varies, however, regarding the consumers’ social value orientation. Individuals with a high level of prosocial values give more importance to the animal welfare attribute and are less reluctant to the reduction of the proportion of real fur in the clothes. Proself consumers associate a higher sacrifice with the consumption of animal-friendly fashion products.
Research limitations/implications
This research enriches the limited literature on the consumers’ response to animal-friendly products. By considering the consumers’ social value orientation, it provides a better understanding of the attitude-behavior gap in animal-friendly fashion consumption. However, further studies should focus on the way of adapting communication on eco-products to the consumer profile. Moreover, it seems interesting to explore how the integration of innovative environmentally friendly materials can be accepted by the target. Replicating this research with representative consumer samples from different countries is also necessary.
Practical implications
From a practical point of view, this research offers implications for managers operating in fashion apparel industry by giving insights on the consumers’ preference for animal friendly fashion.
Social implications
This study gives recommendations to help convincing consumers about the importance of animal welfare attribute and to increase their preference for animal-friendly fashion products.
Originality/value
Despite the extensive use of animal fibers, fur and skins in the production of textiles, the few researchers who have shed the light on the consumers’ response to animal-friendly products have considered mainly the case of food. Also, the marketing literature gives little explanation of the attitude-behavior gap in ethical fashion consumption. By examining the consumers’ social value orientation, this study provides a better understanding of this gap.
The effect of ecological awareness and environmental values on the attitude towards ecological cleaning product : longitudinal survey
This article traces, on the basis of a panel formed by 300 women, firstly the evolution of the effect of ecological awareness and environmental values ??on the attitude towards ecological cleaning product and secondly the effect of environmental values on environmental awareness. To this end, a quantitative longitudinal survey with 3 data collections, every 4 months in a year, was initiated. The results showed that the attitude towards ecological cleaning product is explained only by the ecological awareness which in turn is determined by the environmental values and this throughout the longitudinal survey. The operational benefits of this research provide insights for marketers : the use of the panel in a longitudinal prospect allows the managers to enrich their marketing information systems and to avoid the false moves in their conclusions concerning the ecological shutters.
Purpose: The sustainable fashion literature is fragmented across the management discipline, leaving the path to a sustainable fashion future unclear. As of yet, there has been no attempt to bring these insights together, or to more generally explore the question of "what do we know about sustainable fashion in management research and where do we go from here?" The aim of this review paper is to bring together the sustainable fashion field, identifying opportunities for societal impact and further research. Design/methodology/approach: A systematic literature review was conducted from the first appearances of sustainable fashion in the management literature in 2000 up to articles published in June 2019, resulting in 465 included articles. Findings: The results illustrate that sustainable fashion research is largely defined by two approaches: pragmatic change and radical change. Our findings reveal seven research streams that span across the discipline to explore how organisational and consumer habits can be shaped for the future. Research limitations/implications: What is known about sustainable fashion is constantly evolving with a variety of contributions from multiple fields. The paper aims to provide a representative sample of the state of sustainable fashion in management literature to date, but space limitations make a full exploration of all contributions impossible. Practical implications: This review provides decision makers with insights that have been synthesised from across the management field. Originality/value: This review identifies knowledge gaps and informs managerial decision making in the field, particularly through serving as a foundation for further research.
What kinds of implications does ‘design for recycling’ have for the designer’s role and practice in the context of textiles and fashion? In this paper, we approach this question by discussing the problem of low textile recycling rates alongside a disconnection between clothing design and textile recycling. Qualitative interviews with design, sorting and recycling experts were conducted to gather insights into the challenges and requirements of closed-loop recycling. The research findings underline the importance of an active dialogue between these stakeholder groups, which calls for novel ways of sharing knowledge of the latest advancements in sorting and recycling technologies. In addition, the study brings forth the priority order of design considerations and proposes ‘design for sorting’ as a new strategy for textile circularity. The paper contributes to the ongoing discussion on design practice in a circular fashion system and the required changes in the mind-set of the entire industry.
Traditionally, the field of anticonsumption tends to be focused on consumers who collectively, in varying degrees, express their opposition by engaging in nonpurchase or responsible purchasing practices. In this article, the author is interested in anticonsumption starting at the end stage of consumption, when people become aware of and opposed to one of the corollaries of consumption—namely, wastage—which in turn influences their purchasing practices. A concept is introduced: anticonsumption consciousness is defined as consumers’ knowledge of wastage of objects in end stage of consumption practices. Visits to homes, combined with qualitative interviews, showed that anticonsumption consciousness manifests itself (1) not at all or very little, because of unawareness of wastage; (2) through experiences that have resulted in wastage; (3) through gradual acquisition of knowledge of oneself and one’s skills; and (4) through moral considerations and respect for past and future generations. This article also provides an explanatory factor for the gap between prosustainability attitudes and behavior that does not always match them. The implications for public policy are discussed.
Abstract
Purpose – The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of sustainable attributes combining social and environmental on the perceived quality of luxury products.
Design/Methodology – we have employed a between subject factorial design with a sample of 465 Saudi consumers from both Jeddah and Riyadh.
Findings - The findings confirm that social information has an unfavorable effect on the perceived quality of luxury products. The negative effect observed increases, however, in the case of less scarce products, and it is moderated by the consumers’ degree of liking of luxury.
Research limitation/implication – This study explores the effect of sustainable attributes on the perceived quality of luxury products. However, further works could extend some limitations. First, our study tested perceived quality as a whole. Thus, future research could focus on specific dimensions of quality like the product’s design or comfort. Second, sustainable attributes were tested through only one environmental and one social practice. Therefore, a future study could examine the effect of other practices such as the use of regenerated cashmere. Third, we considered only one luxury product. It would thus be beneficial to carry out comparative experiments with other luxury goods.
Originality/value – Our study extends the debate about the incompatibility of luxury and sustainability. Moreover, the research enriches the few studies focusing on sustainability in developing countries by examining the case of Saudi Arabia.
Résumé
Introduction
L’analyse interprétative phénoménologique (IPA) est une méthode d’analyse qualitative du discours propice à la compréhension de l’expérience vécue et du sens que les individus donnent à leurs évènements de vie et dont les développements en psychologie sont foisonnants.
Objectifs
En s’appuyant sur la présentation détaillée d’une IPA conduite sur un entretien de recherche portant sur les pratiques de décisions médicales difficiles en oncologie, cet article vise à montrer l’intérêt de recourir à cette méthode dans le cadre d’une étude psychosociale.
Résultats
L’application des différentes étapes de l’IPA au cas d’un chirurgien a permis la mise en évidence de l’implication d’enjeux interpersonnels (relations avec les patients) et sociaux (attentes liées à la spécialité du médecin) dans le vécu complexe de cette pratique.
Conclusion
L’IPA est une méthode d’analyse féconde pour révéler les dynamiques psychosociales des comportements et réaliser une interprétation psychosociale du sens qu’ils revêtissent pour les individus.
Résumé
L’éducation relative à l’environnement (ERE), par ses fondements, ses visées et ses pratiques, invite les personnes et les collectivités à prendre conscience de leur rapport à l’environnement et à agir de façon à produire les changements qu’impose la crise socioécologique actuelle. Elle fait appel à la responsabilité humaine, sociale et individuelle, visant à assurer un environnement sain, une qualité de vie et d’être. Malgré les efforts déployés par l’ERE en ce sens, on observe un écart entre la conscience et l’agir environnemental. À travers la recherche et la pratique, on constate l’ampleur du défi que doit relever l’ERE pour faire face à la complexité des processus de prise de conscience et d’action environnementales.
Cet article présente des éléments théoriques tirés d’une recherche interprétative qualitative qui, d’une part, se propose de contribuer à définir les processus complexes de prise de conscience et d’action environnementales et, d’autre part, tente de cerner l’apport potentiel de l’ERE à ceux-ci. Des liens multiples, complexes et dynamiques se tissent entre la conscience et l’action, au coeur de processus de changement, et ils appellent une action éducative. Ces liens peuvent être mis en évidence en clarifiant les notions de conscience et d’action, leur réseau conceptuel, de même que les processus de prise de conscience et d’action au regard du rapport au monde, de façon à éclairer les choix éducatifs, en particulier en ERE.
There is no doubt that the textile (and fashion) industry is important for the economy; however, taking into account the concept of sustainability, this industry many times—actually most times—operates to the detriment of environmental and social factors. John R. Ehrenfeld defines sustainability as “the possibility that humans and other life will flourish on the earth forever” (Ehrenfeld and Hoffman 2013, p. 7). This notion of sustainability is not only a concern for people and the environment, but also for animals. Besides environmental and social issues, more than 50 million animals suffer cruel death each year to benefit the fashion industry (Born Free USA 2014). The purpose of this chapter is to make a contribution to the animal care agenda in the textile and fashion industry by presenting the United Nations Global Compact Code of Conduct for the Textile and Fashion Industry and Ovis 21 case—a company from the Argentine Patagonia, that is a B Corp and Savory Institute Hub company, but a company in which People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) discovered cruelty to animals in one of their establishments. This also puts forward the reactions of two of its most important clients, the media and consumers. This chapter closes with an analysis and some conclusions about the topic and Ovis 21 case.
The production, use and eventual disposal of most clothing is environmentally damaging, and many fashion and textile designers are becoming keen to employ more sustainable strategies in their work. This book provides a practical guide to the ways in which designers are creating fashion with less waste and greater durability.
The purpose of this chapter is to overview the current body of knowledge related to environmentally sustainable clothing consumption. The chapter discusses consumers’ knowledge of and attitudes towards environmental issues related to the production, consumption, and distribution of clothing. Additionally, the chapter examines current consumer engagement levels in environmentally sustainable clothing consumption and analyzes the relationships between knowledge, attitudes, and clothing consumer behavior. Finally, the chapter concludes with a consideration of consumers’ perceived barriers to environmentally sustainable clothing consumption.
The fashion industry has recently heeded the call for sustainability and ethically sound production. There has been, however, a reluctant uptake of these products with many consumers and a seeming conflict with existing ‘fast fashion’ desires in this area. This study explores the attitudes of fashion consumers toward sustainable products, ethical fashion purchasing and their subsequent behaviour. The research applies the developmental theory model to a fashion context, finding fashion consumers can be categorised into one of three groups: ‘Self’ consumers, concerned with hedonistic needs, ‘Social’ consumers, concerned with social image and ‘Sacrifice’ consumers who strive to reduce their impact on the world. These different groups view fast fashion in conflicting ways and subsequent implications for marketing sustainably produced fashion products to each group are thus significantly different. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
