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Study on the Protection path of Intangible Cultural Heritage of
Chinese Traditional Dress -- Taking Tang Dynasty Dress as an
Example
Shanshan Wang, Lei Zhang, Jinlong Zhao
Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan 430073, China
Abstract: China has been known as the "big country of clothing" and "the country of silk" since ancient
times, and has a very rich heritage of traditional clothing culture. But now these traditional costumes are
declining. In order to promote the cultural development of traditional Chinese clothing and protect and inherit
China's intangible cultural heritage, this study first takes the traditional Chinese clothing of Tang Dynasty as
an example, reviews the culture and value of traditional Chinese clothing, then introduces the protection and
development of intangible cultural heritage at home and abroad, and then analyzes the difficulties and
necessity of the protection of traditional Chinese clothing intangible cultural heritage. Finally, combining with
the reality, the protection path of traditional intangible cultural heritage is proposed to realize the protection
and inheritance of Chinese traditional costume culture. This study will promote the protection of Chinese
intangible cultural heritage to a certain extent.
Key words: Traditional costume; Intangible cultural heritage; Protection path.
1. Introduction
The traditional costume of our country is exquisitely made
and the modeling design is rich, which fully demonstrates
the extraordinary wisdom and excellent creativity of the
Chinese nation. As a very important intangible cultural
heritage, it not only carries our thousands of years of
cultural deposits, but also integrates extremely strong
national emotions. However, with the continuous
development of the society and the changes of The Times,
the aesthetic concept has gradually changed. With the
rapid development of modern costume culture, Chinese
traditional costume is also in decline.
Intangible cultural heritage, as the cultural heritage of
mankind under the protection of UNESCO convention, is
the inheritance and protection of the living culture with
national origin.China has a history of over 5,000 years,
and its intangible cultural heritage ranks among the top in
the world in terms of both quantity and quality.With the
change of times, production and life style, more and more
intangible cultural heritage faces the fate of being lost due
to the lack of inheritors.Although the state has provided
some funds for the protection of intangible cultural
heritage, few people still pay attention to and inherit the
intangible cultural heritage.As a part of the intangible
cultural heritage, Chinese traditional costume plays and
intangible cultural heritage pavilions have played a
certain role in protecting the cultural inheritance of
Chinese traditional costume, but they still cannot solve the
crisis of the loss of Chinese traditional costume.
In order to promote the cultural development of traditional
Chinese clothing and protect and inherit China's
intangible cultural heritage, this study first takes the
traditional Chinese clothing of the Tang Dynasty as an
example, reviews the culture and value of traditional
Chinese clothing, then introduces the protection and
development of intangible cultural heritage at home and
abroad, and then analyzes the difficulties and necessity of
the protection of traditional Chinese clothing intangible
cultural heritage. Finally, combining with the reality, the
protection path of traditional intangible cultural heritage
is proposed to realize the protection and inheritance of
Chinese traditional costume culture.This study will
promote the protection of Chinese intangible cultural
heritage to a certain extent.
2. The reflection of the cultural value of
traditional clothing
The role of clothing is not only to cover the body and
warm the body, but also to beautify the function.Almost
since the origin of clothing, people have deposited their
life customs, aesthetic tastes, color preferences, as well as
various cultural attitudes and social concepts in clothing,
and constructed the spiritual civilization connotation of
clothing culture.
© The Authors, published by EDP Sciences. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License 4.0
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SHS Web of Conferences 162, 01015 (2023) https://doi.org/10.1051/shsconf/202316201015
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Sui unified the whole country and redefined the Han
costume system. However, it was difficult to get rid of the
influence of the northern costume system brought by the
unification of north and south.The Tang Dynasty was a
time when Chinese politics and economy developed
highly, culture and art prospered and feudal culture was
brilliant.The Tang Dynasty was stable for a long time,
developed in foreign trade, and the productive forces
greatly developed. For a long time, the country was
peaceful and the people were prosperous and the national
strength was strong.The development of its clothing,
whether material or clothing style, presented an
unprecedented brilliant scene.Especially when the Tang
Dynasty became the economic and cultural exchange
center of various Asian nations, its arts and crafts and
costume culture on the basis of Chinese tradition,
absorbed and integrated the influence of foreign culture
and made innovations, pushing the development of
Chinese clothing to the peak.This is the third great change
in the ancient Chinese costume history.Different from the
previous two great changes of clothing, this time the great
exchange of clothing was flowing from north to west.
Although there were a variety of institutional restrictions
on costume in the Tang Dynasty, due to the high
development of economy and other, especially because of
the integration of Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism,
Confucianism was diluted by foreign cultures, so many
restrictions were bound to be unable to be maintained for
long.In the free atmosphere of advocating open social
thoughts, the Tang Dynasty clothing finally showed a
variety of production and colorful situation, and even
women wearing men's clothing became a fashion at that
time.Moreover, due to the strong national strength, the
people were full of national confidence and adopted an
open policy towards foreign cultures. Due to the strong
national confidence and cohesion, and the Tang people
were good at integrating the northwest ethnic minorities
with foreign cultures such as Tianzhu and Persia, the
foreign and exotic cultures naturally became the
supplement and nourishment of the Tang culture, which
was the reason for the elegance and beauty of the Tang
costumes.In addition to the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the
most obvious feature of Chinese clothing is the dual-track
system.On large sacrificial occasions, the traditional
clothes of the Han people were worn.In peacetime, the Hu
fu (Xianbei suit) system was the common dress of the
Tang Dynasty, and in later generations, another tradition
of the dress system was formed.
In the Sui and Tang dynasties, weaving technology had
reached an unprecedented height. At the same time, due
to the influence of absorbing foreign cultures and the
continuous influence of Hu clothing, Tang clothing was
generally magnificent, vibrant and fresh, full of the Tang
Dynasty style of prosperity.Futou yarn cap and crewneck
robe shirt were the main costume for boys in the Tang
dynasty.In the Sui and Tang dynasties, taxi and official
men generally wore crewneck robes and shirts, which
could be worn from the emperor to the servants. It was the
common clothing at that time.Influenced by the northern
nationalities, the style was almost the same, generally for
the round collar, the difference only lies in the material,
color and leather head decoration.Futou is the most
common type of master's first coat in Sui, Tang and Five
Dynasties. It is a kind of garment style created by the
fusion of Han and northern ethnic minorities. Futou would
be equipped with crewneck robes and upi six-head boots,
which would be free and graceful and fearless.The
traditional mitre clothes were only occasionally worn on
grand occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies to heaven
and earth and ancestral temples. The style of the dress
mostly inherited the old Sui Dynasty system.Other futou
would be the first futou futuo, which could be worn up to
emperor and down to Baiguan master for ceremonies and
banquets and even be used as imperial coat.However,
women's wear in the Sui and Tang dynasties is full of
fashion, which often developed from the curious court
women's clothing to the folk and was copied one after
another. It is also often influenced by the northwest ethnic
groups and has a unique style. It is one of the most
wonderful chapters in the history of Chinese clothing and
the boldest kind of ancient Chinese women's clothing,
with its graceful shape and magnificent makeup.Clothing
with large sleeves, in order to show the graceful, stretch,
give a person with a sense of floating if fairy......In the Sui
and Tang dynasties, women's daily clothing is shirt, jacket,
skirt, mostly wearing jackets, jackets, shirts, and the lower
body bundle skirt.Red was the most popular skirt,
followed by purple, yellow and green.Women's shoes in
the Tang Dynasty were shaped like phoenixes with the toe
and similar in size to men's.There are many kinds of
women's daily clothing, such as jacket, blouse, robe, waist
scarf, chest wipe, skirt, pants, knee pants, socks, shoes and
so on.
China is a multi-ethnic country. In the long history of
development, all ethnic groups have jointly created the
splendid Chinese civilization and made splendid
achievements in the colorful traditional Chinese clothing
culture.Clothing can represent a country, a nation and
show a civilization.The Chinese element represented by
the warm "China red" has been the hot creation of French
fashion for many years, and has become the mainstream
color of Paris fashion.Westerners believe that red is the
symbol of the Chinese nation, and it is widely used in
clothing and accessories.Western women are also
fashionable to wear Chinese collar short clothes, with low
waist bell-bottom pants, striving to make themselves have
the temperament of Oriental women.Up to now, the
traditional Chinese dress is still a brilliant and wonderful
work, attracting the world's attention.Traditional culture
is the way of living and spiritual home of the Chinese
nation, and traditional clothing intuitively shows us a
beautiful style of this home.We protect and inherit
excellent traditional culture, revitalize China with
traditional culture, and create new brilliance with the
power of traditional culture.
Traditional Chinese clothing is an important part of
China's intangible cultural heritage, but different from
other types of cultural heritage, traditional Chinese
clothing to a large extent has the characteristics of
exceeding the limitations of The Times, reflecting the
eternal value of Chinese civilization, the most inheritable,
can serve the contemporary society, enrich the life of
contemporary people, It can promote the development of
China's clothing industry, and thus better serve the social
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and economic development.The extensive and profound
Chinese traditional clothing is an inexhaustible and rich
resource for today's fashion.
3. Protection and development of
intangible cultural heritage at home
and abroad
France was the first country in the world to enact the
protection of its historical and cultural heritage.As early
as 1840, the Historic Buildings Act was promulgated,
which stipulated that cultural buildings and historic
buildings should not be dismantled at will. After 1943, it
was further stipulated that changes to the environment
within 500 meters of historical and cultural buildings
should be approved by the state.Up to now, France has
more than 100 laws and regulations on the protection of
intangible cultural heritage, and the protection of material
cultural heritage has a history of 200 years. It has specified
91 areas for the protection of historical and cultural
heritage, and initiated the "Cultural Heritage Day", which
has greatly promoted the protection of intangible cultural
heritage in Europe.
Italy is a country with world-renowned historical sites. Its
historical and cultural heritage is all over the country with
a surprising number, most of which are well protected.
Rome, as one of the world-renowned historical ancient
capitals, is a perfect example of preserving ancient
architectural structures today.Since 1997, the Italian
government has held a "Culture and Heritage Week" in
the last week of May every year. Most of the historical
sites and museums are open to the public free of charge.
In 1962, the Korean Cultural Treasure Protection Act was
enacted.South Korea attaches great importance to the
protection of cultural heritage and has successively
announced 100 items of intangible cultural heritage with
strong financial support. The state guarantees all the funds
for the items identified as intangible cultural heritage, of
which half is borne by provinces and cities, and the rest is
raised by the local region.
When countries around the world began to actively take
certain measures to protect their traditional cultures,
China also formally joined the United Nations
Convention for the Protection of Intangible Cultural
Heritage in 2004, promulgated the Intangible Cultural
Heritage Law of the People's Republic of China in
February 2011, and began to implement it in June of the
same year.Under the strong advocacy and promotion of
the government, local governments at all levels have also
responded positively.However, there are some problems
in the protection of intangible cultural heritage. For
example, only half of the provinces in China have
established special intangible cultural heritage
management organizations, and there is a shortage of
professionals to deal with related work.Some local
governments have failed to include the protection of
intangible cultural heritage in their annual fiscal budgets,
resulting in a lack of corresponding financial input.In
addition, there are difficulties in declaring special funds,
or they attach importance to the number of regions to
declare intangible cultural heritage, but ignore the
protection and development measures after successful
declaration.This series of phenomena leads to a serious
loss of non-hereditary people, and a large number of
intangible cultural heritage projects are on the verge of
being lost.
4. The necessity of protecting the
intangible cultural heritage of
traditional clothing
The inheritance of traditional clothing is a conscious
behavior resulting from the survival, development and
evolution of human society. It has gradually penetrated
into the depths of people's ideology and become a
universal social and historical law.No matter from the
perspective of history or reality, the inheritance of
traditional Chinese costume culture is the inevitable
choice for national reproduction and survival.The
necessity of protecting the intangible cultural heritage of
traditional Chinese clothing is mainly reflected in the
following points:
4.1 The internal demand of national economic
development.
The economic base determines the superstructure.For a
country, only with a sound economic strength and
material foundation can it truly have the confidence and
ability to protect its national cultural heritage, so as to
promote the inheritance and development of national
history and culture, enhance cultural confidence and
enhance national pride.As an ancient civilization with a
history of 5,000 years, China is known as the "Kingdom
of Clothing" and has a profound accumulation of
traditional clothing culture and historical
deposits.Therefore, we should make full use of our own
advantages in costume culture, uphold the spirit of
inheritance and innovation, further promote the external
dissemination of traditional Chinese costume culture,
improve the international influence of national costume,
and contribute to the inheritance of China's intangible
cultural heritage.
4.2 The natural selection of social demand and
individual demand.
After thousands of years of development and baptism,
Chinese traditional costume culture still plays a vital role,
with important social and individual needs.Among them,
the social needs come from different costume application
scenarios.For example, the traditional Chinese opera art
must be presented with the help of specific opera
costumes, and the traditional costumes have also become
an important symbol of the opera art. Otherwise, this art
form will be incomplete and unable to present its due
artistic effect.For another example, ancient costume
themed films and TV dramas must take traditional
costume culture as the prototype to conceive costume
design, and the costumes presented must also fit the
characteristics of costumes under the specific background
of The Times.Ethnic traditional festival performances
need to wear their own iconic costumes, such as Miao
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costume and dazzling silver jewelry for the Miao people,
long gown, boots and belt for the Mongolian people, and
silleng little hat for the Uygur people.Therefore, the
traditional costume culture has penetrated into every field
of social and cultural life.At the same time, individual
needs are also an important source of value for the
inheritance of national costume culture.Take the choice of
wedding dress as an example, Chinese traditional
wedding dress has Xiuhe clothing, dragon and phoenix
coat, etc., although the Western wedding dress is popular
with the public, but Chinese wedding dress is still an
indispensable element in the wedding.In short, whether it
is social needs or individual needs, traditional costume
cultural inheritance has become the natural choice and
conscious behavior of the continuation of the nation.
4.3 Promote the promotion and development of
traditional culture.
Cultural soft power is an important embodiment of a
country's overall national strength and the root cause of a
nation's reproduction and survival.As an ancient
civilization with a long history, China contains rich and
profound traditional culture, which is the precious wealth
created by our ancient ancestors and an important cultural
heritage left to us, and is of great significance to national
development and rejuvenation.As an important part of
traditional Chinese culture, traditional costumes contain
rich historical and cultural heritage as well as the
crystallization of ideological wisdom. They fully
demonstrate the creativity and cultural accomplishment of
ancient people, and become an important carrier to carry
forward traditional culture.In the new era, the inheritance
and protection of traditional clothing can effectively
enhance Chinese people's sense of cultural identity and
self-confidence, so that they begin to gradually
understand the subtleties of traditional culture, so as to
promote the wide spread of traditional culture.
5. The difficulty and protection path of
traditional costume intangible cultural
heritage protection
5.1 Difficulties in the protection of intangible
heritage of traditional clothing
At present, the heritage status of traditional clothing is
very severe. Under the strong impact of modern culture,
the audience is gradually decreasing, and there is a lack of
effective protection measures and communication
methods, leading to the effective use and development of
some precious elements of traditional clothing,
handicrafts and excellent works.Therefore, the difficulties
in the protection of traditional clothing intangible cultural
heritage mainly include the following points:
National aesthetic personality digestion.The aesthetic
style of The Times is the soil for the survival and
development of costume culture and plays an important
role in the characteristics of costume art and cultural
inheritance.For thousands of years, the regularity of
clothes has always been the basic concept of the
development of Chinese clothing.Influenced by
traditional ethics and ethics, traditional Chinese clothes
pay attention to the "unity of nature and man" and
integrate natural things into the creation of clothes. Silk,
hemp and cotton are used as raw materials, clothing colors
correspond to Yin and Yang and the five elements,
flowers, mountains and rivers are used as clothing
patterns, and wide, tall and fat clothing shapes are
preferred to create a sense of elegance and
flexibility.However, with the social changes, Western
ideas and Western clothing culture gradually spread into
China, and the simple and convenient aesthetic concept of
clothing became popular among people.Although this
kind of practical clothing is convenient for people's work
and life, blindly promoting foreign clothing culture,
weakening or even neglecting national clothing will lead
to the loss of national character, the dissolution of national
aesthetic personality, the gradual decline of national
cultural confidence and other serious problems.Therefore,
in order to get real development of Chinese traditional
clothing, we must start from the cultivation of national
aesthetic personality, dig deep into the national character,
strengthen the self-confidence of national clothing, and
revitalize people's sense of identity to the traditional
clothing culture.
The strong impact of modern culture.At present, China is
in a period of profound social transformation and
adjustment. It not only faces the need of transformation in
terms of economic structure and development mode, but
also the conflict and contradiction between modern and
traditional ideology and culture are becoming
increasingly prominent.On the one hand, traditional
ideology, culture and customs still exist in people's life,
standardizing and guiding people's behavior and adhering
to the roots of traditional culture.On the other hand, with
the vigorous development of modern culture, Internet
culture, Western culture and Japanese and South Korean
culture are interwoven, bringing new ideas and value
cognition to people and shaking the position of traditional
culture.In this case, the scope of the audience of
traditional clothing is gradually narrowed, the frequency
of wearing is significantly decreased, and even some
groups do not know how to wear traditional clothing, but
modern clothing has become a trend that people
chase.Therefore, the strong impact of modern culture
makes the traditional costume culture gradually ignored,
the use of demand and the audience is decreasing, so that
its inheritance and protection face severe challenges.
The way and means of inheritance are relatively
simple.Traditional Chinese clothing is not only a simple
garment product, but also an important intangible cultural
heritage, which has profound social significance for the
inheritance of national culture and the maintenance of
cultural diversity.At present, the degree of social
participation in the inheritance and protection of Chinese
traditional clothing is low, and the phenomenon of
government-arranged cultural inheritance still exists,
which has a strong administrative color and government-
run nature, so that there are few channels for social forces
to participate, insufficient willingness to participate, and
unable to form an effective social participation force.At
the same time, the government and civil organizations are
independent and independent in the inheritance of
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traditional Chinese clothing, so the government can
hardly learn from the excellent experience and practices
of civil organizations, and cannot give play to the role of
social forces such as social organizations, enterprises and
scientific research institutes.In addition, in terms of
communication mode, Chinese costume culture lacks
effective communication channels, and the utilization of
modern communication means is insufficient, which
restrains its inner vitality.Therefore, it is difficult to
realize the effective inheritance of Chinese traditional
costume culture only by relying on the government. We
must change the inheritance ideas, open up new
communication paths and development channels, and
stimulate the internal vitality of the inheritance of costume
culture.
5.2 Protection path of traditional clothing
intangible cultural heritage
In order to fully protect and inherit Chinese traditional
clothing and stimulate the vitality of traditional clothing
culture, we must have a deep understanding of the
necessity of protecting traditional clothing intangible
cultural heritage.In addition, it is also necessary to
combine the cultural characteristics of different regions
and the characteristics of cultural development, formulate
a scientific strategy for the inheritance and protection of
traditional clothing, plan specific protection measures and
development paths in detail, fully mobilize the forces of
different social subjects, guide them to actively participate
in the protection and inheritance of traditional clothing,
build a long-term development mechanism, and
effectively stimulate the internal vitality of traditional
clothing.
Firstly, the collection and protection of traditional
clothing should be strengthened.As a collection place for
humanity's material and intangible cultural heritage,
museums are of great practical significance for inheriting
the achievements of human civilization and promoting
cultural inheritance and protection.Therefore, the
inheritance and protection of Chinese traditional clothing
should give full play to the main force of the museum,
using a variety of carriers and forms, to scientifically
protect Chinese clothing culture.On the one hand, the
museum should formulate a perfect protection system of
traditional clothing, plan the ways and carriers of national
clothing technology protection in detail, and equip
professional management personnel, use modern cultural
relic conservation technology, scientifically protect the
achievements of traditional clothing, and prevent the
traditional clothing from being damaged and damaged.On
the other hand, the country should establish a digital
museum of costume culture, with the help of modern
science and technology to realize the static display of
traditional clothing and dynamic technology
demonstration, so that the public have a more three-
dimensional and comprehensive understanding of
traditional costume culture.At the same time, information
network technology is used to upload documents related
to traditional clothing into the museum, providing a good
channel for people to understand and study traditional
clothing.
Secondly, the industrialization of traditional clothing
culture should be promoted.Industrialization is the
fundamental path of traditional culture inheritance and
development, and also the key to realize the prosperity of
traditional culture.Therefore, traditional clothing can
adopt the development mode of cultural industrialization,
led by enterprises and cooperated by the government, to
build the development pattern of traditional clothing
culture industrialization.First, traditional handicraft
training schools should be established.The manufacturing
process of traditional clothing is complex and varied,
which requires professional learning and training to
master its core.The training school of traditional clothing
handicraft can introduce some excellent folk handicrafts
and experts and scholars in traditional clothing, build a
professional team of teachers, systematically teach
traditional embroidery, weaving and dyeing techniques,
explain the development process, creative ideas, elements
and other contents of national clothing, and cultivate more
inheritors of traditional clothing skills.Second, the
development of traditional clothing cultural
products.Enterprises can dig deep into the characteristics
and profound heritage of traditional culture, extract the
design elements with the value of The Times and market
development potential, and apply them in modern
clothing design, presenting both classical flavor and
fashion sense of Chinese style clothing works.
Finally, it can promote the development of traditional
clothing through tourism.In recent years, with the
continuous expansion of the domestic tourism industry,
the mass tourism consumption demand has gradually
upgraded, and began to pay more attention to the quality
of tourism and cultural heritage, providing a good
opportunity for the integration of culture and tourism.In
the context of cultural and tourism integration, traditional
clothing culture can be integrated into the development
process of tourism, creating cultural tourism projects with
cultural significance and ornamental value, planning fine
routes of cultural tourism, and realizing the combination
of economic benefits and social benefits.For example,
ethnic song and dance performances can be held in tourist
attractions to display different styles of traditional ethnic
costumes;Scenic spot docents can wear different styles of
traditional costumes for tourists to explain the origin and
development of costumes.They can also develop some
handicrafts, rent and sell traditional costumes, and
provide tourists with services of trying on and taking
photos.The combination of traditional clothing and
tourism can not only enhance tourists' travel experience,
make them deeply feel the connotation of traditional
clothing culture, promote the inheritance and
development of traditional clothing culture, but also
promote the transformation and upgrading of tourism
industry, and provide a good communication carrier for
traditional clothing culture.
The traditional Chinese costume culture is not only the
achievement of Chinese civilization for five thousand
years, but also an important intangible cultural heritage
and precious wealth of human society.To promote the
inheritance and development of traditional clothing, we
should take protection as the premise, preserve relevant
documents and original clothing as far as possible, and
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adhere to the principle of innovation and inheritance. We
should not only cultivate a new generation of inheritors of
traditional clothing, but also innovate traditional clothing
design according to the characteristics of The Times, so
as to keep the vitality of traditional clothing culture
forever and promote its long-term development.
6. Conclusion
It is required to strengthen the exploration and elucidation
of fine traditional Chinese culture, establish a inheritance
system of traditional Chinese culture, and vigorously
publicize and promote fine traditional Chinese culture.
"The historical origin, development context and basic
trend of fine traditional Chinese culture should be
explained clearly, and the unique creation, value concept
and distinctive characteristics of Chinese culture should
be explained clearly."Through this study, it is hoped that
in the future, we can use tradition to promote fashion and
activate tradition with fashion, draw spiritual power to
realize Chinese dream from excellent traditional culture,
give play to culture to lead fashion, serve the
contemporary society, improve cultural literacy, promote
the inheritance and development of China's intangible
cultural heritage, so that more traditional clothing and
intangible cultural heritage can be displayed in front of
people. Let more people around the world know about
Chinese traditional clothing, love Chinese traditional
culture, and let China's "intangible cultural heritage" go to
the world.
Acknowledgements
The Philosophy and Social Science Research Project of
Colleges and Universities in Hubei Province, "Research
on the Living Inheritance and Creative Transformation of
Textile Intangible Heritage in Hubei Minority Areas
Under the Background of Rural Revitalization" (21Q126)
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