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Journal of
Patchouli and Essential Oil Products
Vol. 1, No.1, Page 18- 21, June 2022
JPEOP
18
Innovation of Shampoo Bar From Natural Herbal Essential Oil of
Aceh
Syaifullah Muhammad1,3*, Retika Septi Diana Utari1, Masykur Rahmatullah1, Habil Fadhlurrahman1,
Farid Muhammad Arie1, Tia Amanda1, Friesca Erwan2,3, Raihan Dara Lufika2,3
1Department of Chemical Engineering, Universitas Syiah Kuala, Banda Aceh, Indonesia, 23111
2Department of Industrial Engineering, Universitas Syiah Kuala, Banda Aceh, Indonesia, 23111
3PUIPT-Nilam Aceh-Atsiri Research Centre, Universitas Syiah Kuala, Banda Aceh, Indonesia, 23111
* Corresponding author email address: syaiful.muhammad@unsyiah.ac.id
Received : 7 October 2021; Accepted : 7 December 2021; Published online : 29 April 2022
Abstract
According to 2020 data from the Indonesian Ministry of Environment and Forestry explained that 38.3% of waste in Indonesia
is waste from households and 17.1% of the total waste is plastic waste. The use of bar shampoo can help reduce plastic bottle
waste derived from liquid shampoo in order to go green movement. NEUBA (Natural Essential Oil Shampoo Bar) is a shampoo
made from natural ingredients in the form of patchouli oil and aloe vera extracts with a bar-shaped appearance. NEUBA
contains patchouli oil which is one of Aceh's essential oils that are already very well-known on the international scene. The
constituent components that have the largest percentage are patchouli alcohol (32.60%), guaiene (23.07%), guaiene (15.91%),
seychellena (6.95%), and patchoulena (5.47%) (Yunilawati and Endeh, 2016). As well as for the ingredients used are patchouli
oil, Aloe Vera Extract, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocoa Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, D-Panthenol,
Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Green Tea, Mica powder. The overall activities were come out of the laboratory of Atsiri
Research Center (ARC) of Syiah Kuala University (USK). This shampoo bar innovation product has the potential as a new
product that is environmentally friendly, practical and uses natural ingredients that are potential local resources.
Keywords: Hair Care, Shampoo Bar, Zero-waste, patchouli oil
1. INTRODUCTION
Hair is an addition to the scalp that provides
warmth, protection and beauty. Hair is also found all
over the body, except the palms of the hands, soles
of the feet and lips. For this reason, hair requires
special care to keep it smooth, shiny, and strong.
The types of cosmetics used on the scalp are in the
form of hair tonic, hair growth gel, hair vitamins,
hair moisturizers, hair masks and
shampoos (Nurhikma et al., 2018). For this reason,
hair requires special care to keep it smooth, shiny,
difficult to broken and easy to combed. Shampoo is
one type of cosmetic that has been widely known and
used as a hair cleaning product.
In the process of making shampoo, not only active
ingredients are needed, but also
additional ingredients. One of the additional
ingredients that must be present in shampoo
preparations is surfactant. Surfactant is a material that
functions as a stabilizer in shampoo preparations,
because it has a hydrophilic group and a lipophilic
group so that it can unite a mixture consisting of
water and oil (Nasmety et al., 2019).
Currently, public awareness and interest in reusing
natural materials that can replace synthetic materials
is increasing. So the opportunity to make a shampoo
product that is more environmentally friendly and
healthy is very big opportunity to be developed with
natural ingredients that are often found around us. In
this study, the formulation of herbal shampoos using
natural ingredients, Aceh essential oil, namely
patchouli oil and additional aloe vera. Where
patchouli itself has a great potential in Aceh. Aceh
patchouli oil is very popular in the international
market, especially America and Europe, which is used
as raw material for the perfume industry,
cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and other industries. Aceh
province contributes almost 70% to the national
production of patchouli oil (Hadianto, 2020).
Patchouli oil is a huge commodity in the
pharmaceutical, food, perfume, soap, and
cosmetic industries, as well as the largest export
commodity in Indonesia. In patchouli oil there are 15
components identified. The constituent components
that have the largest percentage are patchouli alcohol
(32.60%), guaiene (23.07%), guaiene (15.91%),
seychellena (6.95%), and patchoulena
Muhammad et al. Journal of Patchouli and Essential Oil Products, Vol. 1, No.1, June 2022
19
(5.47%) (Yunilawati and Endeh, 2016). Seeing this
great potential, we are interested in developing
patchouli-based innovation products to raise the
potential of patchouli in the Aceh region so that
it continues to develop and become a superior
community of Acehnese people. Patchouli oil is
usually used as a fixative (binder) in the
perfume industry and is one of the mixtures in the
manufacture of cosmetic products such as soap,
toothpaste, shampoo, lotion, deodorant and hair tonic.
So that one way to develop the use of patchouli oil as
a binder and antibacterial agent needs to
be developed into a shampoo product (Rulis et al.,
2016).
Aloe L. species (Aloaceae) are ethnobotanically
very valuable plants in many communities and
civilizations. Nonetheless, very few species
are extensively studied to explore their applications
in the pharmaceutical and medical, cosmetic and
personal care, food and beverage, and
detergent industries (Sbahtu et al., 2020). Regarding
on (Masyithoh et al., 2019) Aloe vera (Aloe vera L.)
can reduce hair loss and strengthen hair
roots. Because aloe vera contains substances that are
useful for reducing hair loss such as Vitamin A, C,
lignin, amino acids, Cu, Inositol, enzymes,
minerals and others. 4 Lignin substances contained in
aloe vera (Aloe vera L.) functions as a prevention of
hair loss, skin care and burns. Aloe Vera pulp
contains proteolytic enzymes which repairs the scalp
dead skin. It works as a good conditioner and makes
hair smooth and shiny (Rahathunnisa & Afzalunnisa,
2019).
Green tea (Camellia sinensis L) is a kind of herbal
tea native to China. This plant is widely cultivated
in Southeast Asia as a raw material for making
traditional medicines. Because green tea contains 30-
40% higher polyphenols than black tea, black
tea only contains more than three phenol.
Polyphenols are bioflavonoid antioxidants, and their
efficacy is 25 times that of vitamin E and 100
times that of vitamins. Antioxidants are electron
donating compounds or reducing agents.
Antioxidants can activate oxidation reactions
by preventing the formation of free radicals.
Antioxidants are also compounds that can inhibit
oxidation by combining free radicals and
highly reactive molecules that can inhibit
cell damage (Dalming and Agus, 2019).
The design of this shampoo is made with bars.
These units are great for saving space. Being much
smaller and more light-weight than their liquid forms
and higher number of washings that we can get from
the same amount of product. The development of
new cosmetic formulations is also very important to
evaluate the quality so that shampoo products are not
harmful to hair and health. All herbal shampoos were
evaluated by measurement of the physical appearance
comprises odor, color and clarity whereas
the physicochemical parameters including solid
content, pH, surface tension, dirt dispersion, and
foam stability (Sastrawidana and Pradnyana,
2019). The research aims to develop innovative
shampoo bar using Aceh patchouli oil resulting from
molecular distillation technology as a new product
that is environmentally friendly, practical and uses
natural ingredients that are potential local resources.
2. MATERIALS AND METHODS
The tools used are Petri dishes, spatula, digital
scales, measuring cup, 100 mL measuring cup,
mixer (agitator), hot plate, shampoo bar mold (6 cm
diameter). As well as for the ingredients used are
patchouli oil, Aloe Vera Extract (Figure 1 and Figure
2), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl
Betaine, Cocoa Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, D Panthenol
(Vitamin B5), Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Green
Tea, Mica powder. So
Figure 1. Aloe Vera Extract (source:
www.Google.com)
Figure 2. Patchouli oil (source: ARC documentation)
2.1 Shampoo Bar Formulation
The first step of Patchouli oil used in this study
were purified first to remove moisture and other heavy
metals. Oil purification is carried out by molecular
distillation method using a rotary vacuum evaporator.
The working principle of this tool is to separate the
components in patchouli oil based on differences in
their boiling points. The formulation of shampoo bar
is tabulated in Table 1.
2.2 Preparation Procedure
How to make it is the first sodium cocoyl
isethionate until smooth. Then melt Cetyl
Alcohol, Cocoa Butter, Cetyl Alcohol and Citric Acid.
After the ingredients melt mix into a container
Muhammad et al. Journal of Patchouli and Essential Oil Products, Vol. 1, No.1, June 2022
20
containing Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and stir all
the ingredients by using a mixer or mixer for 2-3
minutes. Once all is mixed let stand until the
temperature drops slightly. When the temperature
has dropped add patchouli oil, aloe vera extraction,
green tea, BHT, mica powder and Phenoxyethanol,
stirring again with myxer until homogeneous. After
that do printing using a shampoo bar mold with a
diameter of 6 cm. Drying about 2-3 days before it
is ready to use. The schematic procedure of shampoo
bar preparation is shown in Figure 3.
Table 1. Shampoo Bar Formulation
Component
Composition
Information
Patchouli oil
1 drops
Active ingredient
Aloe Vera
Extract
0.25 mL
Active ingredient
Sodium Cocoyl
Isethionate
36.3 gram
Cleaning agents
Cocamidopropyl
Betaine
2.4 gram
Cleaning agents
Cocoa Butter
2 gram
Base
Cetyl Alcohol
3 gram
Base
D-Panthenol
0.25 mL
Active ingredient
Citric Acid
0.25 mL
pH adjuster
Phenoxyethanol
0.25 mL
Preservative
BHT
0.25 mL
Antioksidan
Green Tea
8 drops
Odor
Mica Powder
0.3 gram
Dye
Figure 3. Shampoo Bar Making Process
2.3 Quality testing
After the shampoo bars are made, a physical
evaluation test of the preparation is carried out,
including organoleptic tests, high foam tests or foam
stability and pH. Data analysis The results of
organoleptic physical properties and high foam tests
or foam stability were analyzed visually.
Data processing in this study was carried out by
descriptive method and conclusions.
3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
3.1 Organoleptic Test
In the evaluation of organoleptic observations,
shampoo bar in the form of color, odor and texture.
The color display of the shampoo bar is green and has
a distinctive fragrance and fresh derived from
patchouli oil and green tea essential oil. On the
observation of texture, the resulting is not sticky
and solid after the drying process for 2-3 day. The
specification of the organoleptic test is informed in
Table 2.
Table 2. Shampoo bar organoleptic results
Observati
on
Temperature
(ºC)
Formula
Colour
28
Green
Odor
28
Patchouli fragrance
and green tea
Texture
28
Not sticky and solid
3.2 Foam Stability Test
Tests on foamability parameters show good values.
Foamability testing is usually accompanied by
foam stability testing. Both of these tests aim to
determine the shampoo's ability to form foam and
foam stability during use.
3.3 pH Test
The pH meter is used to determine the pH value in
shampoo. pH suitable for scalp, is in the range of 5.0-
9.0 in accordance with SNI 06- 4085-1996 for
shampoo preparations (Nurhima et al., 2018). The
results of the pH test showed shampoo pH of 6.7 so
that the pH of the shampoo bar produced was in
accordance with the criteria of SNI.
4. CONCLUSIONS
Natural herbal shampoo bar products from Aceh
essential oil with patchouli oil, aloe vera and green
tea, are produced due to the increasing public need
for hair care products that can prevent various hair
damage problems. This product is offered differently
from other shampoo products on the market, because
this product is made naturally without chemicals that
can damage the health of the hair skin as well as in
the form of bars that can reduce the waste of plastic
bottles used. Based on the test results, this shampoo
is in accordance with the standard criteria of
Muhammad et al. Journal of Patchouli and Essential Oil Products, Vol. 1, No.1, June 2022
21
quality, ranging from pH, foam stability
and organoleptic tests.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Thank you to the Atsiri Research Center of
Universitas Syiah Kuala for providing materials and
tools to ensure this research runs smoothly.
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