ArticleLiterature Review

Sustainable changes in beauty market trends focused on the perspective of safety in the post‐coronavirus disease‐19 period

Wiley
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
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Abstract

Background: In February 2020, WHO announced the outbreak of coronavirus disease-19 (COVID-19) in a global epidemic, and the COVID-19 vaccine has recently been developed and approved in many countries to release disease radio waves. Immediately distributed and used to control and control infections. During the COVID-19 pandemic, the world closed extensively in beauty and beauty services to control the spread of the virus. Objectives: Therefore, this study for the first time that the perspective of safety in sustainable may be applied to the entire alteration of beauty industry market in the post-COVID-19 pandemic for literature review. Methods: A Narrative Review is proposed as a new report and commentary on the sustainable change of beauty market trends centered on safety due to the COVID-19 pandemic in December 2020. It was written with reference to keywords such as "Covid Beauty Market," "Covid Sustainable," "Covid clean beauty," and "Safety beauty." This study was performed by searching on PubMed, Google Scholar, Scopus, and ResearchGate. A total of 383 papers were retrieved, of which 36 were successfully included in this study. Results: Analysis of customers and markets in the beauty industry since COVID-19 was absolutely required at this time. Harmful and safe edible ingredients of clean beauty perspective should be compared and analyzed. In addition, importance of sustainability value from a clean beauty perspective should be considered. Conclusion: There is an era in which the perspective of safety in sustainable may be applied to the entire beauty industry today. In addition, depending on the customer's perception change, beyond the ingredients, raw material procurement of products, manufacturing process, product experiments, etc. are part of clean beauty to minimize carbon emissions, water use, recycle product containers, and reduce waste.

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... The increase in demand for safe and nontoxic products has expanded the boundaries of clean beauty, which is now associated with natural, organic, vegan, and eco-friendly products (Lee & Kwon, 2022b;. Thus, the attributes of clean beauty have not been clearly defined; however, they can be categorized as follows: clean for the skin (safety), clean ethically (ethicality), and clean (sustainability) (Chin et al., 2018;Lee & Kwon, 2022a;Mora & Ross, 2021;Salim Khraim, 2011;Suphasomboon & Vassanadumrongdee, 2022). Given the limited information presently available, it is difficult for manufacturers, retailers, and consumers to reach a consensus on a clear standard for selecting or labeling clean beauty products. ...
... In sum, the attributes of clean beauty have not been clearly defined; however, through literature and market review, the most frequently mentioned concepts can be categorized into clean for the skin (safety), clean for the environment (sustainability), and clean ethically (ethicality) (Chin et al., 2018;Lee & Kwon, 2022a;Mora & Ross, 2021;Salim Khraim, 2011;Suphasomboon & Vassanadumrongdee, 2022). ...
... In a similar context, natural skincare is also highly associated with skin safety, as natural or organic cosmetics do not contain parabens or chemical preservatives (Rubin & Brod, 2019). Lee and Kwon (2022a) report that consumers prefer and use oral and topical herbal as a form of therapy. However, interestingly, recent studies state that natural or organic cosmetics have a higher potential of irritating the skin, as most common allergens are fragrances or botanical ingredients (Rubin & Brod, 2019;Tran et al., 2022). ...
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... Sustainable safety is now a change for the beauty industry and the market as a whole after COVID-19, with the main focus on sourcing and researching products with safety in mind [4]. L'Oré al, one of the leaders, strictly adhered to the act and quickly reversed the trend to remain ahead of the times during the epidemic to achieve profitable results [5]. Since its founding in 1909, L'Oréal has been committed to creating innovative products of the highest quality for more than 100 year and sustain the top level by consistent development. ...
... First, L'Oréal's dominant position in the market makes it difficult for them to feel a sense of urgency and break out of existing values. Second, in 2020, revenue growth in L'Oréal's premium products segment was negative for a period of time due to the impact of the pandemic [5]. This shows that no matter how high a product's market share is at present, it will still be affected by external factors, and the brand should constantly strive to innovate to keep up with the changes of the times. ...
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The introduction of the novel coronavirus pandemic as well as the transition to the digital era have altered the sales market model. L’Oréal, the pioneer of beauty industry excellent its development despite the external interference. In this study, a SWOT analysis is employed to analysis the company’s current market situation, by identifying the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, and threats of L’Oréal. In each dimension of the SWOT model, an in-depth investigation is conducted, and a corresponding suggestion is put forward. The study focuses on how to enhance strengths, avoid weaknesses, create opportunities, and face threats. Through this analysis, the core competencies of L’Oréal are recognized, and a comprehensive overview of the competitive landscape is drawn. Understanding these core competencies and the competitive landscape will be essential for a successful sales market model in the future. This study aims to have a thorough understanding of the beauty market where L’Oréal thrived in and provide market suggestions for those who want to learn about the domain.
... All rights reserved means safe ingredients according to changes in customers' perceptions. 21 This meaning also includes environmental issues. Recently, due to the increase in the use of masks due to environmental problems or infectious diseases, skin troubles are rapidly increasing due to changes in the use of cosmetics around the world. ...
... are part of the clean beauty for minimizing carbon emission, using water, recycling product containers, and reducing waste. 21 Lately, as consumers are increasingly interested in products made with safe ingredients, cosmetics that have been certified as vegan are increasing in the cosmetic market. In this situation, consumers are analyzing cosmetic ingredients or receiving information about products using various contents such as social media and applications to meet the needs for products made with safe ingredients. ...
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... During the COVID-19 outbreak, the search for green cosmetics was influenced by increased consumer awareness of the relationship between beauty and well-being. During lockdown periods, the demand for make-up decreased and the preference for skincare products increased [35]. Customers started to appreciate products that are eco-friendly and health-promoting, which led to a rise in interest in cosmetics that combine the benefits of dietary supplements with aesthetic treatments, such as nutricosmetics [36]. ...
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... With the development of the social economy and the enhancement of consumers' aesthetic consciousness, the beauty industry has become a rapidly growing field. According to statistics, the size of the global beauty market has continued to grow over the past few years and is expected to reach $756 billion by 2025 [1]. One of the key drivers of this growth is the beauty consumption behavior of female college students, who represent a large and influential group of consumers. ...
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... Coraz częściej można zauważyć celebrytów reklamujących produkty kosmetyczne, którzy stawiają na zrównoważony rozwój i przyjazne dla środowiska podejście. Ich obecność w reklamach (w prasie i w telewizji) stanowi potężny kanał przekazu, który zwiększa świadomość społeczną na temat plusów korzystania z ekologicznych kosmetyków (Jinkyung Lee, Han Kwon, 2022). W ten sposób media wspierają trendy zrównoważonego rozwoju w branży kosmetycznej, inspirując swoich odbiorców do podejmowania bardziej świadomych wyborów konsumenckich. ...
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... As a result of increased awareness of waste and hazardous pollution, a growing trend towards natural cosmetics, and the prevalence of age-and lifestyle-related disorders (Lavuri et al. 2022), consumers are becoming more aware of their physical attractiveness and healthcare practices. Consequently, cosmetics and diet supplements have become increasingly essential for consumers worldwide (Lee and Kwon 2022). These goods can be used to achieve a unique and tailored elegance "from inside" and should be evaluated for their efficacy and environmental and human safety (Dubey et al. 2022). ...
Chapter
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Chapter
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Background Melasma is a disorder of melanogenesis among humans causing localized, chronic acquired hypermelanosis of the skin requiring a combination of treatments. Related studies have shown probiotics contribute distinct advantages for skin disorders possibly including melasma because of its anti‐inflammatory activities, anti‐oxidation properties, ultraviolet protection and tyrosinase activity inhibition. Aims The study aimed to investigate the effects of synbiotics supplement on improving melasma (evaluated from mMASI score) Methods This research comprised an experimental study employing a prospective, double‐blind, randomized controlled trial among 57 Thai participants divided in 2 groups (29 for the experimental and 28 for the placebo groups). The participants were aged 30‐50 years old, had Fitzpatrick skin type III–VI, with facial melasma on both sides of the face and attending Mae Fah Luang University Hospital, Bangkok from January‐December 2019. Participants were randomly treated with oral synbiotics or placebo, 1 sachet daily for 12 weeks. Melasma severity and skin health were evaluated at 4 visits for each participant (baseline, weeks 4, 8 and 12, respectively). Results Severity of melasma scored by mMASI of the synbiotics group was 7.54±0.79, 7.36±0.80, 7.16±0.73 and 6.98±0.72 at baseline, weeks 4, 8 and 12, respectively, and 7.51±0.86, 7.52±0.88, 7.54±0.86 and 7.54±0.89 at baseline, weeks 4, 8 and 12, respectively, in the placebo group. Comparing between two groups at week 12, melasma score in the synbiotics supplement group was significantly lower than that in the placebo group (p = 0.008). Conclusion Oral synbiotics supplementation for 12 weeks improved the severity of melasma score.
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COVID‐19 pandemic caused by beta‐coronavirus SARS‐CoV‐2 primarily affects the epithelium of the airways. With the increasing involvement of dermatologist in management of this crisis, cutaneous symptoms gained more and more attention. In this review we will describe cutaneous symptoms of patients of all ages in association with COVID‐19. We will focus on such disorders that are caused by direct action of the SARS‐CoV‐2 virus on tissues, complement and coagulation system and on non‐specific eruption of the systemic viral infection. Drug‐induced reactions are only mentioned in the differential diagnoses. Although more systematic investigations are warranted, it comes clear that some symptoms are clinical signs of a milder COVID‐19 course, while others are a red flag for a more severe course. Knowledge of the cutaneous manifestations of COVID‐19 may help in early diagnosis, triage of patients and risk stratification. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
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In the diapered area, the continuous exposure to excess moisture and irritants from urine and feces weakens the stratum corneum, making the skin more susceptible to irritation. The use of wet wipes for infants (baby wipes) is a common practice to clean skin after urine or a bowel movement, and this practice even extends to cleaning the hands and face, resulting in repeated daily use. Therefore, ensuring that baby wipes contain ingredients that are safe and mild on skin is important to help minimize skin irritation and discomfort. While disposable baby wipes have been shown to be effective and gentle at cleaning infant skin, even the skin of premature infants, there is growing public concern regarding their safety and tolerability. Not all products are made the same, as differences exist in manufacturing processes, ingredients, materials, safety, and quality testing. Therefore, it is important that healthcare professionals have accessible evidenced-based information on the safety and tolerability of common ingredients found in baby wipes to optimally educate their patients and families. Herein, we provide a review on best practices for ingredient selection, safety, and efficacy of baby wipes.
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Phytocompounds have been used in cosmeceuticals for decades and have shown potential for beauty applications, including sunscreen, moisturizing and antiaging, and skin-based therapy. The major concerns in the usage of phyto-based cosmeceuticals are lower penetration and high compound instability of various cosmetic products for sustained and enhanced compound delivery to the beauty-based skin therapy. To overcome these disadvantages, nanosized delivery technologies are currently in use for sustained and enhanced delivery of phyto-derived bioactive compounds in cosmeceutical sectors and products. Nanosizing of phytocompounds enhances the aseptic feel in various cosmeceutical products with sustained delivery and enhanced skin protecting activities. Solid lipid nanoparticles, transfersomes, ethosomes, nanostructured lipid carriers, fullerenes, and carbon nanotubes are some of the emerging nanotechnologies currently in use for their enhanced delivery of phytocompounds in skin care. Aloe vera, curcumin, resveratrol, quercetin, vitamins C and E, genistein, and green tea catechins were successfully nanosized using various delivery technologies and incorporated in various gels, lotions, and creams for skin, lip, and hair care for their sustained effects. However, certain delivery agents such as carbon nanotubes need to be studied for their roles in toxicity. This review broadly focuses on the usage of phytocompounds in various cosmeceutical products, nanodelivery technologies used in the delivery of phytocompounds to various cosmeceuticals, and various nanosized phytocompounds used in the development of novel nanocosmeceuticals to enhance skin-based therapy.
Article
The severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus-2 (SARS-CoV-2) pandemic was first reported in Wuhan, China in December 2019, moved across the globe at an unprecedented speed, and is having a profound and yet still unfolding health and socioeconomic impacts. SARS-CoV-2, a β-coronavirus, is a highly contagious respiratory pathogen that causes a disease that has been termed the 2019 coronavirus disease (COVID-19). Clinical experience thus far indicates that COVID-19 is highly heterogeneous, ranging from being asymptomatic and mild to severe and causing death. Host factors including age, sex, and comorbid conditions are key determinants of disease severity and progression. Aging itself is a prominent risk factor for severe disease and death from COVID-19. We hypothesize that age-related decline and dysregulation of immune function, i.e., immunosenescence and inflammaging play a major role in contributing to heightened vulnerability to severe COVID-19 outcomes in older adults. Much remains to be learned about the immune responses to SARS-CoV-2 infection. We need to begin partitioning all immunological outcome data by age to better understand disease heterogeneity and aging. Such knowledge is critical not only for understanding of COVID-19 pathogenesis but also for COVID-19 vaccine development.
Article
Despite the COVID-19 pandemic and wearing masks in many countries, women are keen on elegance, beauty and the use of face foundations. Assessment of health risks associated with the regular use of face foundation by females is dynamic due to the emerging products. The most common international 14 brands of face foundation powders were collected and the concentrations of different elements (Ag, Al, As, B, Ba, Be, Ca, Cd, Co, Cr, Cu, Fe, Hg, K, Li, Mg, Mn, Mo, Na, P, Pb, Sb, Se, Sn, V and Zn) in each sample were determined. A combined approach merging the conventional and computational tools was used for investigating the risk of exposure to toxic elements. Monte Carlo simulations were applied to calculate risks associated with twenty elements. We attempted different probability distribution functions for concentrations because the actual distribution functions are not known, and the only data available are the mean value and standard deviation of concentrations obtained from experiment. Our results indicate that the total non-carcinogenic health risk through exposure to different elements (Hazardous Index, HI) does not strongly depend on the choice of the probability distribution function for the concentrations. We also show that taking into account probability distributions of other variables and parameters such as body weight, exposed skin area, skin adhesion, etc. does not significantly change the main result rather just slightly broadening the final Hazardous Index distribution function. We found that calculated HI is well below unity for all considered samples, i.e., the dermal exposure to toxic elements in the considered facial powders is negligible and the considered face foundation powders are quite safe to use.
Article
Objective: During the COVID-19 pandemic, Australia implemented widespread closure of beauty and cosmetic services to control the virus spread. The effect of these restrictions is unknown, given that beauty services are widely used for stress relief or to enhance confidence. The current study explored the relationship between engagement in appearance-focused behaviors and distress regarding beauty service closure. Participants with high and low levels of dysmorphic concern were compared to determine whether COVID-19 restrictions may affect these groups differently. Method: An online survey was completed by 216 participants living in Australia. Questions addressed engagement in appearance-focused behaviors during the COVID-19 pandemic and attitudes toward beauty service closure. The Dysmorphic Concern Questionnaire (DCQ) was used to group participants by low and high dysmorphic concern. Results: Appearance-focused behaviors decreased in the low DCQ group (n = 163) during the COVID-19 pandemic, while such behaviors in the high DCQ group (n = 53) remained unchanged. Individuals who were living alone, younger, reported higher dysmorphic concern and greater distress over beauty service closure engaged in more frequent appearance-focused behaviors (R2 = .57, p < .001). The high DCQ group reported greater distress over beauty service closure and increased desire to obtain future beauty treatments. Discussion: While COVID-19 restrictions may have provided a break from societal appearance pressure for those with low dysmorphic concern, appearance-focused behaviors persisted in individuals with high dysmorphic concern. A greater understanding of the long-term impacts on appearance-related distress is needed to determine mental health priorities emerging from the COVID-19 pandemic.
Article
Paraviral eruptions, such as the papular-purpuric gloves and socks syndrome or eruptive pseudoangiomatosis,share the following features that distinguish them from a classic viral eruption: they are highly recognizable; the eruption usually lasts a few weeks; many different viruses and sometimes other agents can trigger them; on microscopic examination, there is no specific cytopathogenic viral effect. SARS-CoV-2 can induce both a classic viral eruption and a paraviral eruption, the meaning of which in terms of pathophysiology and prognosis are very different. Some patients infected with COVID-19 have a papulovesicular eruption involving mainly the trunk. Those patients have active viremia, and some have developed pneumonia and died. Biopsy of the eruption revealed cytopathogenic viral effect, and thus a direct interaction of the virus with the skin; it is, therefore, a classic viral exanthema. Other, mainly young patients, developed chilblains of the fingers and toes 3 or 4 weeks after minor signs of COVID-19 or after contact with a diseased person. They did not develop severe COVID-19. Biopsy revealed classic findings of chilblains without cytopathogenic viral effect. Most of those patients did not develop specific antibodies. Those chilblains can be considered as paraviral. Classic viral manifestations are the consequence of a direct interaction of the skin with the virus, while paraviral manifestations result from the activation of the immune system. In the case of paraviral chilblains, I hypothesize that it is the innate immune system that rejects SARS-CoV-2. Chilblains are also observed in rare monogenic disorders called type 1 interferonopathies, where anti-viral innate immunity is abnormally activated. This would explain why these individuals do not develop specific antibodies, because they are probably naturally resistant to SARS-CoV-2 infection via their innate immune system.
Article
The COVID-19 pandemic has resulted in over 1.4 million confirmed cases and over 83,000 deaths globally. It has also sparked fears of an impending economic crisis and recession. Social distancing, self-isolation and travel restrictions forced a decrease in the workforce across all economic sectors and caused many jobs to be lost. Schools have closed down, and the need of commodities and manufactured products has decreased. In contrast, the need for medical supplies has significantly increased. The food sector has also seen a great demand due to panic-buying and stockpiling of food products. In response to this global outbreak, we summarise the socio-economic effects of COVID-19 on individual aspects of the world economy.
Article
Darkening of fruits is the result of the oxidative activation of polyphenol oxidase converting low-molecular weight phenols present in the fruit body into quinone intermediates. Then, through polymerization, these reactive quinones convert to light yellow and red low-molecular weight melanin and, given enough time, to darker, higher molecular weight brown and black melanin. The process that occurs in the flesh of cut fruit is very similar to the process that human skin cells use to make melanin: the oxidative activation of tyrosinase and conversion of tyrosine to dopaquinone and eventually to darker melanin. The conversion of the phenols by tyrosinase to quinones is the rate-limiting step in the biochemical manufacture of melanin. This article will discuss a new and cost effective way to screen skin-brightening ingredients by the use of apple slices as a model for skin using a chromameter to measure the change in color that occurs in apple slices over a short time course. Such measurements have been popularly used by food manufacturers to examine ingredients that inhibit fruit browning. Interestingly, as will be noted, many of the ingredients used commercially to inhibit food browning are also popular skin-brightening ingredients. We have found that a DermaLab (Cortex Technologies, Hadsund, Denmark) chromameter measuring the erythema index of apple slice darkening appears to be able to differentiate the benefit of a formulation containing azelaic acid, a known skin-lightening ingredient, to minimize the darkening effects that occur in sliced apples. We will discuss how different apples behave differently when cut and how to best use the chromameter to analyze the changes that occur that can potentially help rapidly screen ingredients for their skin-brightening benefits.
Article
We thank Drs Gore and Cohn for their interest in our article¹ and thoughtful comments. We agree that ongoing research is needed; however, we would like to point out several issues. First, many parabens are, in fact, not banned in the European Union. The European Union has banned 5 longer-chain parabens not because of evidence that they are unsafe, but rather because “no information was submitted by industry for the safety evaluation [of these compounds].”² All of the most commonly used parabens, including methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben, along with many others, are considered safe and legal for use as preservatives in Europe.² Although many researchers in the clean beauty movement have expressed concerns about the potential for endocrine disruption by parabens, studies in rats and yeast cells have shown parabens to be thousands to millions of times weaker than estradiol, an endogenous sex hormone.³ Given that women are exposed to much more potent natural estrogens, along with estrogens in oral contraceptive pills and even phytoestrogens in food, the extremely weak estrogenicity of parabens is unlikely to be meaningful. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has done an extensive investigation of the scientific literature on paraben safety and has concluded that parabens are safe in personal care products. The US Food and Drug Administration has also concluded that parabens are safe when used in personal care products.
Article
Clean beauty, also known as natural skin care, is having a moment. From 2017 to 2018, the natural skin care market grew by 23% to 1.6 billion dollars, accounting for over 25% of the 5.6 billion dollars of annual skin care sales in 2018.¹ Staunch warnings from influencers such as Gwyneth Paltrow, whose blog Goop warns readers “Do you want antifreeze (propylene glycol) in your moisturizer? We’re going to guess no,”² have ignited fear in consumers who are now hungry for skincare that is safe and nontoxic. However, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has failed to define clean and natural, leaving these labels open to interpretation by nondermatologist retailers, bloggers, and celebrities who have set out to define clean beauty for themselves. While the clean beauty movement has demonized hundreds of compounds, in this Viewpoint, we argue that an arbitrary designation of clean or natural does not necessarily make products safer for consumers.
Article
Exposure to certain chemicals in products like toothpaste, cosmetics, and mothballs could be one reason why some girls are entering puberty early, suggests a recent study in Human Reproduction.
Article
Study question: Are in-utero or peripubertal exposures to phthalates, parabens and other phenols found in personal care products associated with timing of pubertal onset in boys and girls? Summary answer: We found some associations of altered pubertal timing in girls, but little evidence in boys. What is known already: Certain chemicals in personal care and consumer products, including low molecular weight phthalates, parabens and phenols, or their precursors, are associated with altered pubertal timing in animal studies. Study design, size, duration: Data were from the Center for the Health Assessment of Mothers and Children of Salinas (CHAMACOS) longitudinal cohort study which followed 338 children in the Salinas Valley, California, from before birth to adolescence. Participants/materials, setting, methods: Pregnant women were enrolled in 1999-2000. Mothers were mostly Latina, living below the federal poverty threshold and without a high school diploma. We measured concentrations of three phthalate metabolites (monoethyl phthalate [MEP], mono-n-butyl phthalate and mono-isobutyl phthalate), methyl and propyl paraben and four other phenols (triclosan, benzophenone-3 and 2,4- and 2,5-dichlorophenol) in urine collected from mothers during pregnancy and from children at age 9. Pubertal timing was assessed among 179 girls and 159 boys every 9 months between ages 9 and 13 using clinical Tanner staging. Accelerated failure time models were used to obtain mean shifts of pubertal timing associated with concentrations of prenatal and peripubertal biomarkers. Main results and the role of chance: In girls, we observed earlier onset of pubic hair development with prenatal urinary MEP concentrations and earlier menarche with prenatal triclosan and 2,4-dichlorophenol concentrations. Regarding peripubertal biomarkers, we observed: earlier breast development, pubic hair development and menarche with methyl paraben; earlier menarche with propyl paraben; and later pubic hair development with 2,5-dichlorophenol. In boys, we observed no associations with prenatal urinary biomarker concentrations and only one association with peripubertal concentrations: earlier genital development with propyl paraben. Limitations, reasons for caution: These chemicals are quickly metabolized and one to two urinary measurements per developmental point may not accurately reflect usual exposure. Associations of peripubertal measurements with parabens may reflect reverse causality: children going through puberty early may be more likely to use personal care products. The study population was limited to Latino children of low socioeconomic status living in a farmworker community and may not be widely generalizable. Wider implications of the findings: This study contributes to a growing literature that suggests that exposure to certain endocrine disrupting chemicals may impact timing of puberty in children. Study funding/competing interest(s): This study was funded by the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences and the US Environmental Protection Agency. The authors declare no conflicts of interest. Trial registration number: N/A.
Article
Polyglycerol (PG) is a well-known cosmetic ingredient and important precursor for the synthesis of a variety of cosmetic ingredients, such as surfactants, emulsifiers, and conditioning agents for hair and skin. When derived from renewable resources, PG can provide a more sustainable platform for the development of new ingredients with improved performance in cosmetic applications. This paper will discuss recent advances in the utilization of bio-based PG ingredients as alternatives to traditional ethoxylate chemistries for mild nonionic surfactants, substantive humectants, and micellar thickeners.
Article
Through natural selection, living organisms have evolved well-adapted survival strategies over time. The shallow salt waters of Moorea lagoon are the site of accumulation of microbial mats called "Kopara," in the native Polynesian language. This unique ecosystem is rich in film-forming exopolysaccharides (EPSs) secreted by microorganisms within the biofilm, as a mean to protect themselves from environmental stress (strong ultraviolet [UV], pH, salinity … ). Using blue biotechnology, a manufacturing process was developed to obtain an EPS with skin benefits. The active ingredient (EPS-229) protects against urban pollution, including free radicals, heavy metals, hydrocarbons, and PM2.5 (particulate matter with a size lower than 2.5 μm). Methods: The anti-lipid peroxidation action of EPS-229 was studied in an in vitro UVB-irradiated keratinocyte culture model, using lipophilic fluorescent probe. The chelating properties of EPS-229 were evaluated in tubo in the presence of cadmium and lead. The protective effect of EPS-229 on pollution-exposed skin explants was investigated through quantification of released malondialdehyde (MDA) and histological observation of skin morphology using optical microscopy. Clinical evaluation of the protective and cleansing efficacy of a water solution containing EPS-229 (0.02% and 0.01% w/v, respectively) was performed, against placebo, on a panel of 18 volunteers. For these studies, the forearms of volunteers were treated with EPS-229 before (anti-adhesion affect) or after (cleansing effect) application of PM2.5 (iron particles of 1 μm). The presence of skin-adherent particles was observed and quantified by image analysis, using specific digital masks. Results: In vitro, EPS-229 significantly protected keratinocyte cell membranes from lipid peroxidation. A decrease of 28% was achieved when a concentration of 0.001% w/v EPS-229 was applied to the cell culture. In tubo, EPS-229 also presented strong chelating properties. Maximal adsorption was estimated at 154 mg/g (1.37 mmol/g) of EPS-299 for cadmium and at 250 mg/g (1.21 mmol/g) of EPS-229 for lead. In the skin explant model of pollution exposure, EPS-229 (0.03% w/v) reduced MDA production by 44%, preserved cell integrity, improved dermal-epidermal cohesion, and normalized the collagen network. In vivo, treatment of skin with EPS-229 before exposure to PM2.5 created a protective film limiting particle adhesion. When used in a cleansing solution after exposure to PM2.5, EPS-229 formed a mesh that entrapped particles and removed them from the skin surface. Conclusion: Inspired by the French Polynesia Kopara unique ecosystem, a bioactive exopolysaccharide (EPS-229) has been developed that offers protection from environmental aggression. As a biomimetic shield at the surface of the skin, EPS-229 provides an immediate multiprotective action that efficiently fights the harmful effects of urban pollution and smog.
Article
Purpose of review: Preservatives are well known skin sensitizers and represent one of the main causes of contact allergy. The purpose of this article is to review the current state of contact sensitization induced by preservatives and point future alternatives for products' preservation. Recent findings: Isothiazolinones currently are the most common preservatives responsible of contact allergy in Europe and in the United States, and although some regulatory interventions have been taken place, the current contact allergy outbreak is not yet under control. Despite the ban of methyldibromo glutaronitrile from cosmetics in Europe, sensitized patients are still diagnosed, suggesting other nonregulated sources of exposure. Sensitization rates to formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasers are lower in Europe in comparison with the United States due to stricter regulations regarding their use. Prevalence of contact allergy to parabens has remained stable over the last decades, whereas iodopropynyl butylcarbamate is an emerging allergen with an increasing prevalence. Future alternatives for products' preservation look for a broad antimicrobial spectrum, but with a better safety profile (in terms of sensitization) than the currently available compounds. Summary: Given the high rates of sensitization reported over the last years, timely regulatory actions are urgently required for some preservatives that currently represent a concern for public health.
Article
Cosmetics are one of the most common reasons for hospital referrals with allergic contact dermatitis. Because of the increased use of cosmetics within the population and an increase in allergy cases, monitoring of heavy metals, especially allergen metals, is crucial. The aim of this study was to investigate the concentration of allergen metals, nickel (Ni), cobalt (Co), and chromium (Cr), in the most commonly used cosmetic products including mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow, lipstick, and nail polish. In addition, for safety assessment of cosmetic products, margin of safety of the metals was evaluated. Forty-eight makeup products were purchased randomly from local markets and large cosmetic stores in Istanbul, Turkey, and an atomic absorption spectrometer was used for metal content determination. Risk assessment of the investigated cosmetic products was performed by calculating the systemic exposure dosage (SED) using Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety guideline. According to the results of this investigation in all the samples tested, at least two of the allergen metals, Ni and/or Co and/or Cr were detected. Moreover, 97% of the Ni-detected products, 96% of Cr- and 54% of Co-detected products, contained over 1 mu g/g of this metals, which is the suggested ultimate target value for sensitive population and thereby can be considered as the possible allergen. On the basis of the results of this study, SED of the metals was negligible; however, contact dermatitis caused by cosmetics is most probably due to the allergen metal content of the products. In conclusion, to assess the safety of the finished products, postmarketing vigilance and routine monitoring of allergen metals are very important to protect public health.
Article
Cosmetics, preparations repeatedly applied directly to the human skin, mucous membranes, hair and nails, should be safe for health, however, recently there has been increasing concern about their safety. Unfortunately, using these products in some cases is related to the occurrence of unfavourable effects resulting from intentional or the accidental presence of chemical substances, including toxic metals. Heavy metals such as lead, mercury, cadmium, arsenic and nickel, as well as aluminium, classified as a light metal, are detected in various types of cosmetics (colour cosmetics, face and body care products, hair cosmetics, herbal cosmetics, etc.). In addition, necessary, but harmful when they occur in excessive amounts, elements such as copper, iron, chromium and cobalt are also present in cosmetic products. Metals occurring in cosmetics may undergo retention and act directly in the skin or be absorbed through the skin into the blood, accumulate in the body and exert toxic effects in various organs. Some cases of topical (mainly allergic contact dermatitis) and systemic effects owing to exposure to metals present in cosmetics have been reported. Literature data show that in commercially available cosmetics toxic metals may be present in amounts creating a danger to human health. Thus, the present review article focused on the problems related to the presence of heavy metals and aluminium in cosmetics, including their sources, concentrations and law regulations as well as danger for the health of these products users. Owing to the growing usage of cosmetics it is necessary to pay special attention to these problems. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
Article
Photoaging is a leading concern for patients and many of these patients will express a desire to utilize natural ingredients as treatment. Mushrooms, feverfew, green tea, licorice, olive oil, soy, and coffee berry have been shown to have antioxidant properties and may play a role in the treatment and prevention of photoaging. In this manuscript, the most recent select basic science and clinical studies examining the mechanisms and efficacy of these ingredients will be discussed. J Drugs Dermatol . 2014;13(9):1021-1025.
Article
Herbal products have steadily gained popularity as alternatives to conventional, synthetic medications and are sought after by patients for the treatment of chronic dermatologic diseases and for cosmeceutical use. The production and distribution of botanical extracts is largely unregulated and therefore extensive research into their mechanism of action, safety, physiologic stability, and optimal dosing has been overlooked. One of the major pathways through which natural supplements, particularly polyphenols, act is via inhibition of oxidative stress and its downstream mediators. Endogenous defense mechanisms are inadequate to combat oxidative stress and therefore dietary and/or topical supplementation with polyphenols are an important complementary preventative and therapeutic strategy. This review focuses on the molecular targets of common polyphenols used in topical preparations, particularly soy, green tea, oats, curcumin, and silymarin. Continued research into bioavailability and function of these agents will help translate their therapeutic potential to treat clinical disease. J Drugs Dermatol . 2014;13(8):937-943.
Article
The persistence of metals in the environment and their natural occurrence in rocks, soil and water cause them to be present in the manufacture of pigments and other raw materials used in the cosmetic industry. Thus, people can be exposed to metals as trace contaminants in cosmetic products they daily use. Cosmetics may have multiple forms, uses and exposure scenarios, and metals contained in them can cause skin local problems but also systemic effects after their absorption via the skin or ingestion. Even this, cosmetics companies are not obliged to report on this kind of impurities and so consumers have no way of knowing about their own risk. This paper reviewed both the concentration of metals in different types of cosmetics manufactured and sold worldwide and the data on metals' dermal penetration and systemic toxicology. The eight metals of concern for this review were antimony (Sb), arsenic (As), cadmium (Cd), chromium (Cr), cobalt (Co), mercury (Hg), nickel (Ni) and lead (Pb). This was because they are banned as intentional ingredients in cosmetics, have draft limits as potential impurities in cosmetics and are known as toxic.
Article
Natural ingredients are frequently used in an effort to address cosmetic concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, uneven tone, and texture. Many of these ingredients found in nature possess potent antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory properties. Some, such as mushroom extracts, are even capable of accelerating the skin turnover rate and repairing dermal molecular components that provide structure and elasticity to the skin. Others, such as green tea, provide photoprotection against ultraviolet-induced DNA damage. In this manuscript, the cosmetic benefits of mushrooms, feverfew, and tea are discussed in the context of their ability to improve the appearance of the skin. The healing effects that wheat complex can have on damaged hair are also addressed. J Drugs Dermatol. 2013;12(suppl 9):s133-s136.
Article
Introduction and objective: Normal human skin can produce a range of antimicrobial chemicals that play an important part in eliminating potential cutaneous pathogens. Lactobacillus plantarum is a gram-positive bacteria that produces antimicrobial peptides, which when applied to the skin can act like an anti-inflammatory as well as enhance the antimicrobial properties of the skin. Clinical studies were conducted to determine the effect of lactobacillus extract on improvement of skin barrier and reduction of erythema from chemical irritant, skin microflora, and acne. Results show that lactobacillus extract was effective in reducing skin erythema, repairing skin barrier, and reducing skin microflora, thereby exhibiting an effective reduction in acne lesion size and erythema at 5%, but not at 1%. Conclusion: Based on the results of these studies, lactobacillus extract (5%) can be used to treat mild acne lesions.
Article
Natural ingredients have been used traditionally for millennia and their application in topical creams, lotions and preparations within the traditional medicines and healing traditions of many cultures has been observed. Over the last 20 years, clinical and laboratory studies have identified the benefits of an array of natural ingredients for skin care. Consequently, a number of these ingredients and compounds are today being developed, used or considered not only for anti-aging effects, but also for use in dermatologic disorders. Certain ingredients, such as colloidal oatmeal and aloe vera, have been identified as beneficial in the treatment of psoriasis and atopic dermatitis, respectively, due to their anti-inflammatory properties. For combating acne and rosacea, green tea, niacinamide and feverfew are considered efficacious. As to hyperpigmentation and antioxidative capabilities, licorice, green tea, arbutin, soy, acai berry, turmeric and pomegranate are among those plants and compounds found to be most beneficial. Additional research is needed to determine to confirm and elucidate the benefits of these ingredients in the prevention and management of skin disease.
Article
Recently, both clinical and bench research has begun to provide scientific validation for the use of certain botanical ingredients. Related findings regarding proposed biological mechanisms of action have translated into clinical practice. Botanical compounds for which dermatologic and cosmetic applications have emerged include: olive oil, chamomile, colloidal oatmeal, oat kernal extract, feverfew, acai berry, coffee berry, curcumin, green tea, pomegranate, licorice, paper mulberry, arbutin, and soy. Many of these botanical sources offer biologically active components that require further in vitro and in vivo investigation in order for us to properly educate ourselves, and our patients, regarding over-the-counter products based on these ingredients.
Article
During the last 10 to 15 years, complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) has become increasingly popular in the US. Within this realm of health care, oral and topical herbal supplements have become some of the most frequently used alternative therapies. Most herbal supplements are based on, or include, several botanical ingredients with long histories of traditional or folk medicine usage. Among the numerous botanical ingredients available on the market today, several are believed to confer dermatologic benefits. This article will focus on a select group of botanical compounds, many of which have long traditions in Asian medicine, with potential or exhibited dermatologic applications, including curcumin, Ginkgo biloba, ginseng, silymarin, soy, and tea tree oil. Other botanical agents, such as arnica, bromelain, chamomile, pomegranate, caffeine, green tea, licorice, and resveratrol, are also briefly considered. Some of these ingredients have been incorporated into topical formulations.
Article
Complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) has become increasingly popular in the United States during the last 10-15 years. The use of oral and topical supplements falls within this framework. Most oral and topical supplements are based on or include several botanical ingredients, many of which have long histories of traditional or folk medicine usage. Several of the available products derived from botanical sources are touted for their dermatologic benefits. The focus in this discussion will be on a select group of botanical compounds that have been used for dermatologic purposes or show promise for such applications, including: rosemary, polypodium leucotomos, propolis, oatmeal, olive oil, grape seed extract, lavender, mushrooms, and coffeeberry. Other more commonly used products of botanical origin, such as arnica, bromelain, caffeine, chamomile, ferulic acid, feverfew, green tea, licorice, pomegranate, and resveratrol, are also briefly considered.
Clean Beauty-and Why it’s Important
  • Goop
Natural does not mean safe-The dirt on clean beauty products
  • M B Genter
Genter MB. Commentary on JAMA dermatology editorial: "Natural does not mean safe-The dirt on clean beauty products". International Journal of Toxicology. 2019;38(3_suppl):5S.