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1Department of Handloom and Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Handloom Technology, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India.
2Department of Textile Engineering, Giani Zail Singh Campus, College of Engineering and Technology, Maharaja Ranjit Singh
Punjab Technical University, Bathinda, Punjab, India.
*Corresponding author: E-mail: ramratan333@gmail.com;
Chapter 5
Print ISBN: 978-93-5547-124-6, eBook ISBN: 978-93-5547-132-1
Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied
Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour
Fastness and Absorbency Characteristic Properties
Ramratan Guru1*, Rohit Kumar2 and Deepika Grewal2
DOI: 10.9734/bpi/nper/v2/4039F
ABSTRACT
These day, natural herbal textile dye garment products are preferred by all consumers. These herbal
dye cloths are more environmentally friendly. It provides a non-toxic, chemical-free product that does
not harm the environment or nature. Herbal textiles are dyed entirely with herbal extracts, without the
use of any chemicals. Herbs are used instead of vegetable dyes because they are not only natural but
also have medicinal value. These herbs are applied directly to the fabric with the help of natural
ingredients, so that the medicinal value of the herbs is preserved, because synthetic dyes create a
large amount of waste and unfixed colourants pose a serious health risk and disrupt the eco balance
of nature. Environmental concerns about the production and use of synthetic dyes have reignited
consumer interest in natural dyes. In this study, we used natural herbal dyes on the surface of linen
fabrics. Turmeric, aloe vera, neem, beetroot, pomegranate, and onion were used as natural herbal
dyes in this work. Color fastness and dye absorbency performance have been improved using edible
gum and cow urine. We have found that herbal dyes appearances on linen fabric surface is very
good. It has observed that, a dry and wet rubbing fastness property has very good herbal dyes on
linen fabric surface. The primary goal of this research is to provide a new approach to natural herbal
dyes products that will be more widely used in the textile industry. It will also aid in the reduction of
diseases such as skin allergies and skin infections.
Keywords: Linen fabric; edible gum; cow urine; wash fastness; rubbing fastness; colour fastness to
light.
1. INTRODUCTION
Natural dyes are derived from natural sources, such as plants, animals, and minerals. However,
natural colours may not have the desired shade or fastness; they were also scarce and expensive;
however, natural dyes were applied without the use of any chemicals. These are directly applied to
the fabric using edible gum and cow urine. Its dyeing process does not involve the use of any
chemicals. Whereas some chemicals such copper sulfate and ferrous sulfate are used as catalysts [1,
2]. The fabric is made of 100 percent cotton and linen and is free of any chemical, making it free of
toxins and irritants as people around the world become more health conscious. Herbal treated such
as neem, turmeric, aloe vera, pomegranate, onion cloth has the ability to protect from various skin
diseases, provides relief from viral infected disease and mental depression since herb finished clothes
or garments come in prolonged contact with the human body. The medical properties of herb no
damage to the human body and protective the various skin infections but the case of synthetic dyes is
available and cheap for commercial use [3-6]. It is extremely harmful environment and health as it
leaves a tremendous amount of waste and allergic in contact with human body. And now a day the
environmental issue is rising all over the world. This is the main reason of transferring to natural dyes
Novel Perspectives of Engineering Research Vol. 2
Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour Fastness and Absorbency
Characteristic Properties
60
from synthetic dyes. The main purpose of using natural dye is to make the process eco-friendly and
hygienic [7-10]. Most of the commercial dyers and textile export houses have started re-looking to the
maximum possibilities of using natural dyes for dyeing and printing of different textiles for targeting
niche market. Natural dyes produce very uncommon, soothing and soft shades as compared to
synthetic dyes [11-16]. On the other hand, synthetic dyes, which are widely available at an
economical price and produce a wide variety of colours, sometimes causes skin allergy and other
harmfulness to human body, produces toxicity/chemical hazards during its synthesis, releases
undesirable/hazardous/toxic chemicals etc. The wide varieties of exotic shades produced by natural
dyes are parallel with the synthetic range and hence can replace them with ease. At present, little
information in this aspect is available [17-20]. Natural dyes are being considered as a more
environmentally friendly substitute for synthetic dyes but these have few draw backs low colour
fastness property is one. But no study reported on improving the colour fastness properties of natural
dyes with a natural dye fixing agents. So, in this article results were shown the improvement of colour
fastness of natural dyes with natural dye fixing agents.
2. MATERIALS AND METHODS
Fig. 1. 100% linen woven fabric
Table 1. Fabric specifications
S. No
Type
100% linen woven fabric
1.
Warp count
30
2.
Weft count
30
3.
EPI
66
4.
PPI
49
5.
GSM
140
6.
Weave design
Plain
2.1 Turmeric
Turmeric belongs to some family as ginger. Turmeric is the most popular dye in textile dyeing.
Turmeric is a rich source of phenolic compound is known as curcuminoids. It has antioxidant and skin
lightening properties and might to be used to treat skin inflammation making. These compounds are
useful in cosmetic formulation. Turmeric was and is still used for textile painting and printing in India.
2.2 Neem
Neem is a natural herb that comes from the neem leaves. Another name for which include
azadirachtaindica. Neem leaves can produce light yellow green color in cotton fabric. The main
reason of choice neem leaves has antibacterial properties. The nano emulsion of neem at lower
concentration can be used as an effective antibacterial agent for treatment of pathogenic bacterial
infection without any toxicity to human system.
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Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour Fastness and Absorbency
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Fig. 2. Turmeric
Fig. 3. Neem paste
2.3 Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera is a succulent plant species of the genus aloe. Aloe vera is a medicinal plant that’s been
used to treat various health conditions. Aloe Vera gel uses a skin treatment. The aloe Vera plant
which is about 1-2 feet tall hold leaves that contains a slushy translucent gel. The waste parts of the
aloe Vera leaf could be used as a natural dye for dyeing textile fabric.
Fig. 4. Aloe vera
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Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour Fastness and Absorbency
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2.4 Onion
Using red yellow onion skins is a really fun and economical way to dye fabric. Red and yellow onion
skin can produce different color. In my experience on cotton fabric, the red onion skin produce yellow
with greener tones and the yellow onion skin produce more orange tones. The outer skin of this
common vegetable is one of the most useful and readily available dyestuffs.
Fig. 5. Onion
2.5 Beetroot
Beetroot commonly known as beets are a popular root vegetable used in many cuisines around the
world. Beetroot is the main coloring compound present in red beetroot juice color.
Fig. 6. Beetroot juice
2.6 Pomegranate
The pomegranate is one of the oldest fruit in cultivation and its rind has been used as a dye by carpet
makers for millennia. This dye is high in tannin. Therefore it works particularly will with cotton, linen
and other plant fiber. The pomegranate fruit yield on ochre yellow dye and the skin is rich in tannin.
2.7 Edible gum
Edible gum is natural product obtained from trees. Edible gum is water soluble which makes it easy to
mix with a range of ingredients. Edible gum used as a binding and a thickening agent. Edible gums
are using improve the color fastness in linen fabric.
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Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour Fastness and Absorbency
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Fig. 7. Pomegranate
2.8 Cow urine
Cow urine is a liquid by product of metabolism in cows. Cow urine is also used in medicine in India.
Cow urine is a present antibacterial property. The various studies have found good antimicrobial
activity of cow’s urine. Cow urine can cure certain allergies, skin problems like psoriasis, skin
allergies. Now day cow urine is cosmetic product. Cow urine improves the absorbency of linen fabric.
2.9 Method
Hundred percent bleached linen woven fabrics are used in this research work. Linen plain weave
woven fabric structures are used. According to the natural dye are used according to diseases and
most widely using herbal dye such as turmeric, neem, aloe vera, onion, beetroot and pomegranate.
All the process was carried out in a natural way without using any chemical, at any stage of
processing. Firstly, water and cow urine are boiled together at 80:20 ratio for 30 mint and then fabric
is boiled in it for 3 hours at 60 °C. It will improve the colour absorbency of the fabric. After boiling the
linen fabric are divided into 5 different pieces for different colour and different natural dyes. Secondly
boiled fabric is treated with edible gum. The edible gum used as a binding agent. After boiled fabric
are dipped in edible gum solutions. The water and edible solution are depending the weight of fabric.
Fabric is boiled solutions 60° temp. The fabric is dipped in solution and on padding machine.
Adequate liquor picks up is essential 80-90 depending on weight and construction of fabric and can
be achieved by a combination of absorbent fabric and long contact of the fabric with the liquor. Dyeing
of linen fabric was done with the natural coloring matter extracted from turmeric, neem, aloe Vera,
onion, beetroot and pomegranate with the liquid ratio 1:40 at 100°for 60 mints. The fabric sample was
immersed in the dyeing solution in a water bath at 30°c. After dyeing fabric is washing rose water
because natural dye is directly applied in fabric surface, they are various smells before washing rose
water, then finally fabric dry.
Fig. 8. (a) Turmeric (b) Beetroot
Novel Perspectives of Engineering Research Vol. 2
Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour Fastness and Absorbency
Characteristic Properties
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Fig. 9. (a) Onion (b) Aloe Vera
Fig. 10. (a) Neem (b) pomegranate
2.9.1 Reason to choose natural dyes
Economic use of natural dye is limited. They are good examples to neem, aloe Vera, turmeric, onion
and pomegranate. The chemical dye are create sever environmental problem like water pollution, soil
pollution and toxic nature of dye causes death to the soil microorganism which in turn affect the
agricultural productivity. Synthetic dye are clothing come into prolonged contact with one’s skin, the
largest organ and so toxic chemical are after absorbed into the skin. The absorption has been shown
to cause significant health effects, such as an increase in tumours. Textile dye can also cause
allergies such as contact dermatitis and respiratory disease, allergies reaction in eyes, skin irritation
and irritations to mucous membrane. These diseases are most prevalent in the workers who are
dyeing the cloth as they are around the chemical all day. But natural dyes are found natural resource.
No chemicals are used in its dyeing process. Natural dye are not damage to the human body
protective the various skin infections.
2.9.2 Dyeing process
Dyeing of linen fabric was done with the natural coloring matter extracted from neem, aloe Vera,
turmeric, onion, beet root, pomegranate with the liquid ratio 1:40 at 100°c for 60 mint. Dyeing was
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Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour Fastness and Absorbency
Characteristic Properties
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performed in stainless steel vessel. The linen fabric sample was immersed in dying solution in a water
bath at 30°c and after dying fabric dipped rose water 10-20 mint.
2.9.3 Colour fastness to light test
The main purpose of colour fastness to light test determines the effect of natural sunlight and textile
colour. Model TF422 found laboratory apparatus according to ISO 105 B02. It is most common
international standards for colour fastness to light process. The sample is cut and should be exposed
½ covers and ½ exposed together with standard with blue wool reference (1-8). The blue scale
ranges from 1 to 8. 1 is very low colour fastness to light and 8 is very high colour fastness to light. The
test sample exposed to light for a certain time 24 hr, 36 hr; 48hr depend by customers demand.
Fig. 11. Light fastness tester
2.9.4 Washing fastness test
The dyed sample was washed in the launder - O- meter laboratory apparatus according to ISO 105
C06 A2S standard and model DZ-307. Detergent washing testing determines the resistance of textile
colour to domestic or commercial laundering procedures. The size of specimen was 40*100 mm; the
wash bath contained 4(g/l) ECE phosphate and 1gm/liter sodium perborate. The volume of the bath
was 150 ml, the temperature of the bath was 40°c and time of washing 40 mint. Ten stainless steel
balls are added into each bath to perform washing. After washing, the sample are squeezing with cold
water, then drying is done at a temperature in the air not exceeding 600C and measuring the staining
and colour change by grey scale.
2.9.5 Rubbing fastness test
Colour transfer testing measure the amount of colour transfer from rubbing. The crock meter is a
relatively simple rub tester commonly used to determine the amount of colour transferred from textile
material to other surface by rubbing. The dyed sample are rub fastness in table crock meter model
418 found laboratory apparatus according to EN ISO 150X12 standard. The size of the specimen was
20*100mm arm is weighted to provide a constant 9N load on the sample at all time and a mechanical
counter keeps track of completed 10 cycle. After completions of rubbing sample are dried then it is
compared AATCC grey scale (ISO 105-A03) for staining of color.
Novel Perspectives of Engineering Research Vol. 2
Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour Fastness and Absorbency
Characteristic Properties
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Fig. 12. Colour fastness to washing tester
Fig. 13. Rubbing fastness tester
2.9.6 Colour measurements
The spectrophotometer is a colour measurement device used to capture and evaluate colour. The
most common spectrophotometer, this instrument measures light reflected at a fixed angle to the
sample usually 45° sample are measured using a spectrophotometer spectra flas 600 plus CT (data
colour). CIE l*b*a colour value and reflectance (R) of sample were measured using reflectance
spectrophotometer spectra. The CIE l*a*b colour value, color differences are calculated according to
equation first k/s value are calculated according to equation:
K/S =(1-R) /2R
Where R is the reflectance, K is absorbance and s is the scattering.
3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The color fastness to light, washing and rubbing of dyed linen fabric sample are treated with edible
gum and cow urine. Edible gum used as in bending and thick agent, and cow urine is increases the
fabric absorbency. The treated sample colour fastness to light test result show (Table 2, Fig. 13). The
blue wool scale range is used from one to eight. One is very low colour fastness to light and eight is
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Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour Fastness and Absorbency
Characteristic Properties
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very high colour. Almost all the sample is show by grading. All the samples are showing fairly good (4)
and washing fastness grade show fairly good (3-4).
Table 2. Colour fastness to light test
Sr. No.
Dye name
Grade
1.
Turmeric
4
2.
Neem
3
3.
Aloe Vera
3
4.
Onion
4
5.
Beet root
4
6.
Pomegranate
4
Table 3. Colour fastness to washing fastness test
Sr. No.
Dye name
Grade
1.
Turmeric
4
2.
Neem
3
3.
Aloe Vera
3
4.
Onion
3
5.
Beet root
4
6.
Pomegranate
4
Table 4. Rubbing fastness
Sr. No.
Dye name
Dry rubbing fastness
Wet rubbing fastness
1.
Turmeric
2
4
2.
Neem
4
2
3.
Aloe Vera
4
4
4.
Onion
2
4
5.
Beet root
2
4
6.
Pomegranate
4
4
Fig. 14. Natural dyes effect on colour fastness to light test
Novel Perspectives of Engineering Research Vol. 2
Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour Fastness and Absorbency
Characteristic Properties
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Fig. 15. Natural dyes effect on colour fastness to washing fastness test
The colour change dry and wet rubbing for all samples is found to fair. But dry (2) is very good grade
and wet good fastness grade. The washing fastness grades range between excellent and good (3 to
4.5) for all the treated of sample. It is found that extracted and directly applied dye from the leves, aloe
Vera, turmeric, pomegranate, onion, beet root can be successfully used for dyeing of linen fabric.
Fairly, good and excellent washing, rubbing and fastness to light these data also helpful for textile
industries and another laboratory work.
Fig. 16. Natural dyes effect between on dry and wet rubbing fastness
4. CONCLUSIONS
This research main preference to give a new approach natural herbal dyes products will more
used in textile area. It will more help to reduce diseases problem skin.
Novel Perspectives of Engineering Research Vol. 2
Study about Linen Fabric on the Surface Applied Natural Herbal Dyes to Improving the Colour Fastness and Absorbency
Characteristic Properties
69
It is to improve the colour fastness and absorbency of the natural herbal dyes on linen fabric.
The natural dye is to make the process eco-friendly and hygienic than synthetic dyes.
We have found that herbal dyes appearances on linen fabric surface is very good.
It has observed that, a dry and wet rubbing fastness property has very good herbal dyes on
linen fabric surface.
This work can be helpful in the development of low cost and eco-friendly health care fabric to
the human.
COMPETING INTERESTS
Authors have declared that no competing interests exist.
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Characteristic Properties
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Biography of author(s)
Dr. Ramratan Guru
Department of Handloom and Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Handloom Technology, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India.
Research and Academic Experience: Research experience 6 Years and Teaching experience 3 Years
Research Area: Sportswear garment, Clothing comfort, Innovation fibre, Garment manufacturing process and Technical textile.
Number of Published papers: Research paper 55 and International and national conferences 40, Book Chapters 5.
Any other remarkable point(s): No of Patents 10, Two Journal Reviewer committee member
Rohit Kumar
Department of Textile Engineering, Giani Zail Singh Campus, College of Engineering and Technology, Maharaja Ranjit Singh
Punjab Technical University, Bathinda, Punjab, India.
Research and Academic Experience: Research experience 2 Years.
Research Area: Clothing Comfort, Sportswear Garment, Technical Textile.
Number of Published papers: Research paper 17 and International 02, Book Chapters 03.
Deepika Grewal
Department of Textile Engineering, Giani Zail Singh Campus, College of Engineering and Technology, Maharaja Ranjit Singh
Punjab Technical University, Bathinda, Punjab, India.
Research and Academic Experience: Research and Teaching experience 06 years
Research Area: Fashion & Apparel Engineering, Comfort clothing performance and Garment manufacturing.
Number of Published papers: Research papers 05 and international conferences 03, Book chapter 02.
_________________________________________________________________________________
© Copyright (2021): Author(s). The licensee is the publisher (B P International).
DISCLAIMER
This chapter is an extended version of the article published by the same author(s) in the following journal.
J Textile Eng Fashion Technol, 7(2):51‒56,2021.
