A Study on Category of Female Body Shapes and their Clothing

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to explore different body shapes of female figures. Female figures are identified with circumference measurements (bust, waist and hips) of the bodice. The ratio of their circumferences is used to define basic body shapes and the perception of choice of clothing preference for individuals. This study is conducted to determine the females' personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the psychological appearance resulting from the perceptions of clothing in relation to their respective body shape.

Full text

BUFT Journal 2016, Volume 3: 69-76 Rita and Sultana 2016
69
A Study on Category of Female Body Shapes and their Clothing
Afroza Akter Rita1 and Summiya Sultana2
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to explore different body shapes of female figures. Female figures are
identified with circumference measurements (bust, waist and hips) of the bodice. The ratio of their
circumferences is used to define basic body shapes and the perception of choice of clothing preference
for individuals. This study is conducted to determine the females’ personal values attributed to garment
fit and to identify the psychological appearance resulting from the perceptions of clothing in relation to
their respective body shape.
Key words: Body Shape, Clothing, Clothing Perception, Garment Fit.
1. Introduction
The characteristic of human is revealed by their outfit. It reflects the attitude and behavior of human.
There are no societies wherein individuals do not engage in dress (Hurlock, 1929). It can change the
perception of humans. It provides us both physical protection and psychological protection. Clothing is
the most essential part for fashion. Especially women are very particular about what to wear and like to
spend money on it. Social Ideology plays a vital role in today’s Fashion but depends on the individual
whether they want to consider it more important than their self-expression. Fashion creates difference
for one people to another. According to (Fan. et al, 2004), there are very few women that think they
have a perfect body, but in most cultures many would like to improve their appearance through the use
of clothing. Clothing is a broad term that focuses on the covering of the body, but is limited, as it does
not include physical modifications of the body (Roach-Higgins & Eicher, 1992). “Clothing in general is
a highly symbolic and visible product resulting in assumptions to be made about individuals, purely on
the basis of their clothing” (Kasambala, J. et al, 2014). This paper accumulates the category of women’s
body shape through the ratio of body measurements and their clothing preferences.
2. Concepts for Women’s Clothing
Fashion has been women’s passion for decades. Females have proven to be more sensitive and
conscious about the image of the body than males (Furnham, A. et al, 1990). When it comes to be
looking good or attractive, it’s not about size or shape that matters, it’s the fit of clothes. A good fit
garment with a good body image looks very attractive also fashionable and feels comfortable and
confident. Wearing the right clothes shouldn’t be about following the latest fashion trends; it should be
about choosing what actually suits for the person and what makes feel happy. A well – fitted garment is
an important criterion for every woman. So, knowing the right body shapes and understanding the types
of clothing that will fit and show good features.
Body image or shape is a multifaceted psychological experience relating to physical appearance and
self-perceptions and attitudes encompassing perceptual, affective, cognitive and behavioral aspects
(Cash, 2004; Cash & Pruzinsky, 1990). It is the picture we have in our minds of the size, shape and for
1 Lecturer, Fashion Design & Technology, BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT), S.R. Tower, 105 Uttara Model Town,
Sector #7, Uttara, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh. Email: afrozaakterrita@buft.edu.bd.
2 Lecturer, Fashion Design & Technology, BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT), Uttara, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh.
Email: summaiyasultana@buft.edu.bd

BUFT Journal 2016, Volume 3: 69-76 Rita and Sultana 2016
of our bodies and our feelings concerning these (Slade, P. D. 1994). Body image can influence by
historical, cultural, social, individual and biological factors.
Ideal body shape is dependent upon the time and space in which the body exists and can differ among
cultures (Lee, et al, 2007). The original conceptualization of body shape in western cultures was
established by the proportions of the Greek gods (Fan, et al, 2004). Historically, a woman’s beauty was
often influenced by the perception of women’s “reproductive potential” (Fan, et al, 2004, p. 5) and
therefore, the appearance of a larger bust and wider hips were often found to be most beautiful.
“Fashion is architecture: it is a matter of proportions” – Coco Chanel, French Fashion Designer (Fischer,
A, 2009). Body shape is all about proportion, and fashion is all about dressing those proportions to look
everyone’s very best. A particular body type is not focus on height and weight, it is focus on shape. A
slender person can have the same body shape as a curvy person, as similar as a short woman can have
the same body shape as a taller woman. Everyone is as unique as others and their bodies also. Fashion is
all about dressing the body. If every woman know their individual body shape, it will be able to find
clothes that fit and flatter. Dressing for body shape is all about choosing clothes that flatter the body.
Flattering means makes everyone looks thinner, taller and curvier.
The circumference of bust, waist, and hips, and the ratios between them, was a widespread method for
defining women's body shape. Women's bodies occur in a range of shapes. Female figures are typically
narrower at the waist than at the bust and hips. The bust, waist, and hips are circumference measurement
of female body (Armstrong, H. J. 2011), and the ratios of their circumference are used to defining basic
body shapes (Bouguereau, W. A. 2006).
Waist–hip ratio or waist-to-hip ratio (WHR) is the ratio of the circumference of the waist to that of
the hips. Waist is the narrowest part of the body and hip is the widest part of the body. This is calculated
as waist measurement divided by hip measurement (W/H). For example, a person with a 25" waist and
38" hips has a waist-hip ratio of about 0.66.

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3. Discussions
People always look for new fashion and fashion leaders create fashion. These fashion leaders constantly
look for interesting new styles, colors, fabrics and ways to accessories their clothes (Frings, G. S. 1987).
Their findings are which dress is for which fashion followers otherwise fashion followers are transferred
into fashion victims. “Fashion victims are people who blindly and stupidly follow a brand without any
discernment and without any analysis. As long as it’s the latest rage, they buy it without thinking about
adapting it to themselves” (Designer Jean-Paul Gaultier). Fashion figures are divided based on
circumference measurements of the bodice. Mainly there are three categories-
a) balanced; bust is equal to hip, ( Bust = Hip)
b) Hip is smaller than bust, ( Hip< Bust)
c) Bust is smaller than hip, ( Hip > Bust)
Fashion is not constant. It is cyclic or keeps changing and evolving. Independent of body fat, weight or
width, female body shapes are categorized in 6 basic body shapes:
 Hourglass
 Triangle ( sometimes considered as Pear)
 Inverted Triangle
 Rectangular ( sometimes considered as Column and straight or Banana)
 Diamond
 Oval (sometimes considered as Apple and round)
Types of female body shape. This are-

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3.1 Hourglass Characteristics: The most attractive female figure is hourglass. Hourglass body
shape’s women have curvy and balanced bust and hip. They have a beautifully
defined waist and gently rounded shoulders that align nicely with the hips. Shoulders
and hips are similar in proportion and set off by a tiny waist. Upper body is
proportionate in length to the legs which are shapely. From top to bottom, hour glass
body shape’s women have a picture of harmony and balanced figure.
Top and Bottom Hourglass
Top hourglass and Bottom hourglass body shape’s women also have curvy figure like Hourglass. There
are a difference between bust and hips. Top hourglass women’s have larger bust than hips and bottom
hourglass women’s hip is bigger than bust. Waist is defined in both top and bottom hourglass figure.
What to be worn: Hourglass body shape should dress up proportionately. They should wear fitted cloths.
Wide belts over shirts and dresses are a great way to show off their waist. They can create an even more
curvaceous effect by proportionally adding a bit of volume to upper and lower body.
3.2 Triangle/Pear
Characteristics: Triangle body shape is also called pear body shape. Triangle body
shape’s woman have smaller bust, larger hips and have well defined waist. Lower
body is wider than upper body. They have an elegant neck and proportionately slim
arms and shoulders. Narrow waist is focusing area of the triangle body shaped
women.
What to be worn and what should not be worn: A triangle body shape is to enhance
and add volume to upper body while emphasizing waist and de-emphasizing lower
body. Light-colored tops and dark- colored bottoms for contrast is good for triangle
body shaped women. They should not be wearing horizontal or broad lines and
printed bottoms, vertical lines makes a person look taller as it creates an optical
illusion. They should avoid such dress that draws attention to hips and thighs.

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3.3 Inverted Triangle
Characteristics: Inverted triangle body shaped women have a proportionally larger
upper body than lower body. They have broad shoulders and large bust and a wide
back. Hips are slim and bottom may have a tendency towards the flat side. Their
waist is subtle and has a tendency to gain weight in belly and upper body.
What to be worn and what should not be worn: An inverted triangle body shape is to
balance broad shoulders, chest and back with their narrower lower body to them best.
This is achieved by choosing clothes that add curves to their hips and bottom while
creating a more defined waist. Lines may create an important role. Vertical lined tops
and horizontal lined bottoms can create illusions. They should try to avoid dresses
that emphasize shoulders, big collars, and boat neck and high necklines.
3.4 Rectangle/Column/Straight
Characteristics: Rectangle body shape also called column body shape. Rectangle
shaped women have straight body type. Rectangle shaped women’s bust, hip and
shoulder widths are similar and waist is undefined. Bottom is more flat than round.
These shaped women tend to gain weight torso first and then upper thighs and arms.
Lower legs are always in shape. Rectangle shaped women have athletic bodies.
What to be worn and what should not be worn: A straight body shape is to
proportionally dress the top and bottom of the body while enhancing waist. Semi
fitting clothes are best suited for straight body type. They should wear curvy dress
that shows fitted waist and to create a more curvaceous effect adds volume
proportionally to upper and lower body. They should not be wearing vertical lines, it
can create more straight body. They should avoid wearing tight fitted and narrow
dresses and low neckline dresses. They shouldn’t wear overwhelming style.
3.5 Oval/Apple/Rounded
Characteristics: Oval shaped is also called apple body shape and sometimes it’s also
called round. Apple shaped women have a large bust, narrow hips and a full
midsection. Have a tendency to gain weight in stomach, back and upper body and
waist is undefined and also has nice shaped legs. They are wider than other body
types.
What to be worn and what should not be worn: An oval body type is to de-emphasize
body’s midsection and create a more defined waist. This is achieved by choosing
clothing that adds curves and fullness to lower body and tops that taper to a waist.
Vertical lines create an important role for oval shaped body. They should tend to
avoid wearing dresses that are fitted and high necklines. Because of fitted dresses are
show off their midsection of the body.

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3.6 Diamond
Characteristics: Diamond body shaped women’s hip is boarder than the bust and
shoulder and have a full midsection. Waist is larger than bust and hips. These shaped
women have a tendency to gain weight in stomach, back, hips and buttocks. Waist is
undefined and the widest part of the full body. Upper legs may carry some weight but
lower legs are in nice shape and also have proportionately slender, shapely arms.
What to be worn and what should not be worn: A diamond body type is to balance
shoulder and bust with hips while creating a waist. This is achieved by choosing
clothing that adds curves and fullness to the upper body. Diamond shaped women
should wear dresses that are tight under the bust and loose enough to skim over the
tummy. Diamond shaped women should avoid wearing dresses that are fitted.
4. Changes to Body Shape
The shape of the female body has not remained constant in all the time. Sometimes, it is to re-evaluate
the shape and measurements of the body. According to Dr. Devendra Sing, “Body shape is determined
by the nature of body fat distribution that, in turn, is significantly correlated with women’s sex hormone
profile, risk for disease, and reproductive capability”. During and after pregnancy, a woman experiences
body shape changes. Female’s special body shape is pregnant shape.
4.1 Pregnant shape
Characteristics: Pregnant women can be any body shape. They have small to
medium bust. Mid sections are full also shoulders and hips that are the same width.
Tummy is bigger than bust and hips. Upper body is smaller than lower body. The
main focus point is bigger tummy. They have slender legs and arms.
What to be worn and what should not be worn: A pregnant body type is to balance
shoulder and bust than hips. This is achieved by choosing clothing that adds fullness
to the midsection. They should wear dresses that are tight under the bust and loose
enough to skim over the tummy. Loose fitting garments are very essential for
pregnant shaped women. Vertical lines and diagonal lines can create optical
illusions in pregnant shaped body. They should avoid wearing dresses that are fitted
in mid-section. Fitted dresses are not comfortable for them. They should wear
comfortable and loose dress.
5. Alteration of Body Shape
Body shape can be altering for many ways. Various strategies are sometimes employed to
temporarily or permanently alter the shape of the body. The most popular technique follow by women is
dieting and exercise. Through dieting and exercise percentage of fat could be reduced and women can
alter one body shape to another body shape. Another way of alteration is surgery. Using the modern

BUFT Journal 2016, Volume 3: 69-76 Rita and Sultana 2016
technology of surgical system, bodice measurement can be change and women can easily change their
desirable body shape.
6. Conclusion
The style of clothing or functions of the garment as well as the fit preferences of individuals is
very essential for every aspects of daily life. Through dress or garments in a right body shape becomes a
form of self-expression of personal values to others. A fitted garment provides psychological satisfaction
for every woman. A well fitted garment enables the wearer to move freely without any restriction in the
garment (Laitala, et al, 2011). And it’s only possible when the right body shapes wear the right clothes.
Based on bodice circumference measurement we can easily find out our right body shapes. Apart from
these aspects wearing right clothes greatly influence the society such as the way of thinking, showing
feelings & emotions, behavior and enhance confidence. There are illustrations of different body shapes
and individuals clothing perceptions on interpretation of sensory information of individuals.
Acknowledgement
I would like to extend my deepest gratitude towards my colleagues, BGMEA university of Fashion and
Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh. I am highly acknowledged to my co-author for consistent support and
guidance in correct direction.
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