Cosmetic uses of activated charcoal

Abstract

Within the past few years, activated charcoal is being actively used in cosmetic products. Due to its adsorbing properties, it is being used in all sorts of beauty products from face masks to cleansers and even soaps. In the past, activated charcoal has been used as the treatment of poisoning but now with cosmetic companies claiming charcoal's aptness in treating skin blemishes, it has regained popularity. However, there is little to no clinical evidence to support these claims. In this study, we review the current use of activated charcoal in cosmetic products and its effectiveness. With limited research, its vigorous and unregulated use in over the counter beauty products can turn out to be unsafe. Although its use as an antidote for poisoning is evident, trials to confirm its effectiveness in treating skin conditions like acne, dark spots, dermatitis need to be prioritized to render it safe to be used in cosmetic products.

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International Journal of Community Medicine and Public Health | September 2021 | Vol 8 | Issue 9 Page 4572
International Journal of Community Medicine and Public Health
Sajjad M et al. Int J Community Med Public Health. 2021 Sep;8(9):4572-4574
http://www.ijcmph.com
pISSN 2394-6032 | eISSN 2394-6040
Review Article
Cosmetic uses of activated charcoal
Muhsana Sajjad1*, Rida Sarwar2, Tooba Ali1, Laiba Khan2, Syed Uzair Mahmood3
INTRODUCTION
Activated charcoal has become a popular trend in beauty
products. It is a fine black powder that is made by burning
wood, coconut shells, peat and olive pits in low oxygen
environment which develops pores and increases its
surface area several folds up to an approximate of more
than three thousand square metre per gram.1 These pores
trap or absorb chemicals which enables it to draw bacteria
and impurities from the skin, improve acne, treat insect
bites, minimize pores, treat skin conditions.2,3
Skin is a very sensitive and protective layer of human body
which is exposed to environmental pollution as well as the
harmful UV rays making skin care an essential part of our
lives. The facial skin is thinner and more fragile as
compared to the rest of the body therefore necessitating
even more care and regard from us. The cosmetic use of
activated charcoal is therefore intended specifically for
facial application either in the form of a cream, lotion, face
mask, face wash or peel off mask.4 An appropriate facial
cleanser not only has the ability to deterge our skin from
potentially harmful bacteria and toxic pollutants but also
boost our confidence as a consequence.5
Adsorbent properties of charcoal were described in the
1700s, and the first clinical application occurred in the
early 1800s.6 Its these adsorptive properties that have led
to its use as a detox ingredient. In 2014, Gwyneth
Paltrow’s newsletter Goop recommended charcoal-infused
lemonade as one of the year’s top juice cleansers, which
brought the substance to the wellness limelight.7 To
today’s generation, charcoal is best known for whitening
teeth and removing skin blemishes. This increased
admiration resulted in record breaking marketing of
activated charcoal amongst all other cosmetic and beauty
products. This also led to the large scale commercial
production of charcoal not only in daily use soaps and
handwashes but also in facial cleansers, pore strips and
carbonated face masks to name a few.8 In 2015, the
ABSTRACT
Within the past few years, activated charcoal is being actively used in cosmetic products. Due to its adsorbing properties,
it is being used in all sorts of beauty products from face masks to cleansers and even soaps. In the past, activated
charcoal has been used as the treatment of poisoning but now with cosmetic companies claiming charcoal's aptness in
treating skin blemishes, it has regained popularity. However, there is little to no clinical evidence to support these
claims. In this study, we review the current use of activated charcoal in cosmetic products and its effectiveness. With
limited research, its vigorous and unregulated use in over the counter beauty products can turn out to be unsafe.
Although its use as an antidote for poisoning is evident, trials to confirm its effectiveness in treating skin conditions
like acne, dark spots, dermatitis need to be prioritized to render it safe to be used in cosmetic products.
Keywords: Activated charcoal, Cosmetics, Face masks, Peel off masks, Skin care
1Department of Research, Dow Medical College, Dow University of Health Sciences, Karachi, Pakistan
2Department of Research, Sindh Medical College, Jinnah Sindh Medical University, Karachi, Pakistan
3Department of Medicine, Health and Life Science, The Queens University of Belfast, United Kingdom
Received: 01 July 2021
Accepted: 10 August 2021
*Correspondence:
Dr. Muhsana Sajjad,
E-mail: muhsanasajjad.ss@gmail.com
Copyright: © the author(s), publisher and licensee Medip Academy. This is an open-access article distributed under
the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial License, which permits unrestricted non-commercial
use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.18203/2394-6040.ijcmph20213569

Sajjad M et al. Int J Community Med Public Health. 2021 Sep;8(9):4572-4574
International Journal of Community Medicine and Public Health | September 2021 | Vol 8 | Issue 9 Page 4573
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients
(INCI) itemized 148 skincare products that had charcoal
powder as an ingredient; an impressive feat for a skincare
constituent as new as activated charcoal and within four
years the numbers were already five times that of 2015.
From long lost beauty myths and medical uses to the latest
twentieth century skincare trends and from hesitant,
skeptical consumers to becoming a high end cosmetic
trend, activated charcoal has come a very long way to make
its place in consumer’s cosmetic preferences’ and it’s here
to stay.9
HISTORY
The use of charcoal dates back to 3750 B.C when the
Egyptians used it excessively not just to neutralize the
odors of mining but also to treat various bowel problems
from constipation to bloating and diarrhea.10
It was also used in the process of mummification by the
Egyptians. Not only this, it was used by the ancient Greeks
and Romans to maintain their oral hygiene. By 400 B.C,
the civilizations settled in and around the Indus region also
started to use charcoal powder for the purpose of water
purification.11
Despite being in use for centuries, the first recorded
scientific discovery of the adsorbent characteristic of
activated charcoal dates was not until the 1700s when the
scientist Lowitz observed that charcoal effectively
decolorized other colors.12
Not only this, in 1830 a French pharmacist named Tourey
bravely exhibited the adsorptive quality of charcoal by
ingesting a lethal dose of Strychnine, a highly toxic
colorless pesticide used to kill rodents and birds, along
with a substantial quantity of charcoal and remained
remarkable unaffected by his risky action.12
Later on in 1834 an American physician Hort, successfully
treated a patient with Mercury dichloride poisoning using
powdered charcoal.12
PROCESS OF COMPOSITION
Activated charcoal is prepared from a variety of carbon
containing materials like wood pulp with low ash content,
lignite and rye starch. After the charcoal is obtained it is
broken down into a fine granular form. After that it’s
activation process is started where it is treated with steam,
oxygen, carbon dioxide, certain acids and other chemicals.
This activating process removes all the impurities and
creates fine, small granules resulting in a surface area of
currently used activated charcoal of about 1000 m^2 per
gram while the experimental activated charcoal has a
surface area of about 3,500 m^2 per gram.13
FUNCTIONAL MECHANISM
Activated charcoal has micro pores which increase its
surface area and therefore it’s adsorptive properties. This
enables it to trap toxins and chemicals from the skin
surface, clearing away any clogged pores and detoxifying
the skin surface when rinsed or peeled away.8 This action
however, depends upon the chemical balance between the
free toxin and activated charcoal/toxin complex.
The toxins are adsorbed in non-ionized forms because of
which it is very efficient at adsorbing non polar and
hydrophobic organic toxins.14
USES
Activated charcoal which has the function of adsorbing fat,
dark spots and pollutants that adhere to our skin is added
to skin lightening cream cosmetic preparations.15 It is also
commonly used in facial cleansers, pore strips, carbonated
face masks, and soaps. A number of cosmetic and
pharmaceutical companies also claim that charcoal
containing products can help treat adult acne, cuts, minor
infections, itchy scalp, and seborrheic dermatitis.8
Some dermatologists also believe that if in the past it was
used to successfully carry out the gastric lavage in patients
of poison ingestion because of activated charcoal making
strong bonds with the poison and ultimately flushing it out
of the body, then it can also use this mechanism to bind
with dead skin and bacteria attracting sebum on skin that
has been exposed to environmental toxins and leave a clear
and healthy skin when rinsed.16 Additionally, its
antibacterial and antifungal properties can be utilized for
treatment of conditions like psoriasis and eczema.17 Not
only this, it also effectively removes dandruff and dirt from
scalp hence making it a valuable addition to shampoos.18
Furthermore, various tooth pastes and mouth wash contain
charcoal and claim to offer tooth whitening which
seemingly points to its abrasive property which favors in
clearing stains.19
DISADVANTAGES
Charcoal containing peel off masks can sometimes cause
excessive skin peeling, particularly in people with
sensitive skin or certain skin conditions resulting in a very
painful situation for the consumer and is a matter of
concern for many dermatologists as it can cause serious
and permanent skin damage like scarring and infection.8
Not only this, charcoal containing mouthwashes have the
potential to damage the aprismatic and subsurface enamel
which results in severe tooth sensitivity and susceptibility
to dental caries which can reverse its tooth whitening effect
and instead cause tooth discoloration to tooth
discoloration.19
Furthermore, there are a number of charcoal containing
beauty products that are not under the jurisdiction of FDA
that contain chemicals which can cause allergies and

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International Journal of Community Medicine and Public Health | September 2021 | Vol 8 | Issue 9 Page 4574
irritation. There have also been reported cases of chemical
burns due to the presence of allergic substances which then
required the treatment of topical steroids.8
Another disadvantage is that charcoal containing face
masks can permanently enlarge skin pores and causing
scarring and can cause permanent hypopigmentation in
people with darker skin tone.20
CONCLUSION
Even though there can in no way be any negation of the
scientific experiments that have proven the highly
receptive characteristic of activated charcoal that has
benefitted the human race ever since its discovery yet,
there is very little clinical data that can associate these
absorptive qualities to its use in clinical practice in some
places. However, despite its merits, while using activated
charcoal for its cosmetic and dental benefits persons
should also bear in mind that it is a chemical compound
and precedence should be given to the fact that like any
other chemical activated charcoal may react in an adverse
way if not used in moderate quantities and with restraint.
Funding: No funding sources
Conflict of interest: None declared
Ethical approval: Not required
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Cite this article as: Sajjad M, Sarwar R, Ali T, Khan
L, Mahmood SU. Cosmetic uses of activated
charcoal. Int J Community Med Public Health
2021;8:4572-4.