Article

Lasting Impression: A Consumer-centric Approach to Measure Transfer-proof Lipstick

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Abstract

Transfer Proof can be defined as the ability of a cosmetic product to completely resist transferral from one surface to another. It has long been a popular claim across foundation and lip products but the ongoing COVID-19 crisis has made it more relevant than ever before.1 Wearing face masks is now essential to everyday life and consumers do not want to see makeup left behind after masks are removed. This puts increasing pressure on formulation chemists to create color cosmetics that perform,2 and raw material suppliers are developing ingredients to support this transfer-proof performance—most notably, novel film formers.3 Taking a step back, however, it is important to understand what consumers expect when they purchase a product that claims to be transfer proof and what they accept in terms of proven performance. Will they engage with product communic­ations of statistical significance from efficacy testing, or do they seek tangible proof that the product works in real terms? The transfer-proof benefit is now as important as long wear or hydration, so how can it be measured objectively when consumer perception is strongly at its core? This was the focus of the present work, which aimed to strengthen conventional instrumental measurements by first defining transfer proof from the consumer perspective. These insights were then used to design a test method to measure this attribute in test lipsticks.

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Abstract: Covid-19 has had a significant impact on both make-up sales and traditional business set-up. With virtual meetings becoming the new norm, a pilot exploratory investigation was conducted to probe the relevancy of make-up whilst working from home via online platforms. An eye-tracking device was used to record the time viewed (seconds), fixation (frequency) and revisits (frequency) of the audience on models wearing make-up or not, during video calls. Results showed that an increase in gaze can be conveyed by a webcam whilst wearing make-up, which can lead to heightened attentiveness from the audience. The application of lip colour seemed to catch the attention of the gaze earlier and to divert audience attention downwards from higher areas of the face. Opportunities to revamp claims for colour cosmetic products following the impact of Covid-19 is also discussed.
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The actual skin colorimeters analyse reflect values from a limited number of broad spectral bands and consequently present limited reproducibility and specificity when measuring skin colour. Here, Antera 3D(®) , a new device which uses reflectance mapping of seven different light wavelengths spanning the entire visible spectrum, has been compared with Mexameter(®) MX-18, an established narrow-band reflectance spectrophotometer and with Colorimeter(®) CL-400, an established tristimulus colorimetric instrument. Thirty volunteers were exposed to a controlled ultra-violet B light. Measurements with Antera 3D(®) , Mexameter(®) MX-18 and Colorimeter(®) CL-400 were done before treatment and after 2, 7 and 14 days. Antera 3D(®) showed to have a better sensitivity and specificity than Mexameter(®) MX-18 regarding the melanin parameter. A similar sensitivity between Antera 3D(®) and Mexameter(®) MX-18 was found for erythema determination and also for the Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage L*, a* and b* parameters between Antera 3D(®) and Colorimeter(®) CL-400. Good correlations were observed for all the parameters analysed. Repeatability of Mexameter(®) MX-18 and Colorimeter(®) CL-400 values were lower than that of Antera 3D(®) for all the parameters analysed. Antera 3D(®) , such as Mexameter(®) MX-18 and Colorimeter(®) CL-400, are robust, sensitive and precise equipment for the skin colour analysis. © 2015 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.
How COVID-19 is changing the world of beauty
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Gerstell, E., Marchessou, S., Schmidt, J. and Spagnuolo, E. (2020, May). How COVID-19 is changing the world of beauty. McKinsey & Company. https://mck.co/3sG7F9n
Mask-friendly makeup: Covestro eyes potential for bio-based film former in APAC color cosmetics market. Cosmetics Design Europe
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Lim, A. (2020, Sep 23). Mask-friendly makeup: Covestro eyes potential for bio-based film former in APAC color cosmetics market. Cosmetics Design Europe. https://bit. ly/35Z9AMA
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Messaraa, C., Metois, A., Walsh, M., et al. (2018). Wrinkle and roughness measurement by the Antera 3D and its application for evaluation of cosmetic products. Skin Res Technol 24 359-366.