Rosa Damascene Mill. (Rose): A versatile herb in cosmetology

Abstract

With the improvement of economic status and the desire for beauty, the interest in health and skin care is increasing. For these demands, since ages medicinal plants are in vogue. A variety of plants, cosmetics and foods with novel bioactive ingredients for skin care and beauty are under constant research and development. Skin is influenced by various factors such as Ultraviolet rays, stress, hormones and aging which together lead skin to lose elasticity, changes in pigmentation and wrinkle formation. Many medicinal plants have proven effects in skin care and beauty treatment. From this list of medicinal plants, one which is famous for its beauty, flavor and fragrance is Rosa damascene. Rosa damascene has many therapeutic action and postulated pharmacological studies such as anti-arthritic, anti-microbial, cardio protective, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, analgesic, immune-modulator, gastro-protective, and skin ameliorative effect. Research in the field of Cosmetology has proven the effect of Rosa damascene in rehydrating skin, reducing scars and stretches, acne management, lowering skin pigmentation, delaying wrinkling and is recommended as a skin vitalizing agent. In this review, the morphology, chemical constituents, and some pharmacological activity are discussed.

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Review article
Rosa Damascene Mill. (Rose): A versatile herb in cosmetology
Yasmeen Ahmed1, S.Shakir Jamil2, Ayshah Hashimi1, Mantasha Binth Siraj1, Umar Jahangir3
1MD Scholars, 2Professor, 3Assistant Professor, Department of Moalajat, School of Unani Medicine Education and Research,
Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi, India
ABSTRACT
With the improvement of economic status and the desire for beauty, the interest in health and skin care is
increasing. For these demands, since ages medicinal plants are in vogue. A variety of plants, cosmetics
and foods with novel bioactive ingredients for skin care and beauty are under constant research and
development. Skin is influenced by various factors such as Ultra-violet rays, stress, hormones and aging
which together lead skin to lose elasticity, changes in pigmentation and wrinkle formation. Many
medicinal plants have proven effects in skin care and beauty treatment. From this list of medicinal plants,
one which is famous for its beauty, flavor and fragrance is Rosa damascene.
Rosa damascene has many therapeutic action and postulated pharmacological studies such as anti-
arthritic, anti-microbial, cardio protective, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, analgesic, immune-modulator,
gastro-protective, and skin ameliorative effect. Research in the field of Cosmetology has proven the effect
of Rosa damascene in rehydrating skin, reducing scars and stretches, acne management, lowering skin
pigmentation, delaying wrinkling and is recommended as a skin vitalizing agent. In this review, the
morphology, chemical constituents, and some pharmacological activity are discussed.
Keyword: Skin, cosmetic, Rosa damascene, morphology, chemical constituents
INTRODUCTION
Natural beauty is a blessing and sign of healthy life for any
individual. And every human being urge to maintain it as a state
of eternal youth. The history of application of cosmetic
products is present from since centuries. Several documents of
literature showed the use of castor oil as protective balm,
beeswax as a skin cream, rose water, olive oil, belladonna
alkaloids (atropine of Atropa belladonna L.) as a pupil dilator
and so on (Dorni, et al., 2017) But as the time passed, and
advances in medical field to understand better scientific skin
physiology, a revolution in personal care products occurred and
the cosmetics industries started research on natural herbal
plants.
Plants are richest source of antioxidant activity because
they survive in environment rich in harm full sun rays such as
ultra violet radiation. And until now , many innovative
personal care products with pharmacological actions are
available on the counter like anti-hyperpigmentation, anti-aging,
anti –inflammatory, anti- carcinogenic, anti-allergic,
moisturizing, pro-collagen, Sun protection factor (SPF) creams
etc.
Some medicinal plants which have cosmetics property are
Santalum album, Aloe barbadensis, Curcuma longa, Crocus
sativus, Azadiracta indica and Rosa damascene etc.
Rosa damascene is a paramount medicinal drug and has
several pharmacological and therapeutic action such as
antipyretic, antiseptic, antiemetic, anti-obstructive, analgesic,
digestive, stomachic, liver tonic, cardiac tonic, brain tonic,
general tonic, desiccant, detergent, demulcent, palpitation,
headache, constipation, mouth ulcers etc. (Hakeem M, 2011)
(Ghani , 1921) (Anonymous, 1972) (Ibn-e-Baitar, 1987).
Flower of Rosa damascene medicinally used in various disease
such as stomach pain, epistaxis, itching on skin, throat infection,
pain in gums, uterus, eyes, ear, and rectum and so on.
Habitat
Rosa damascene is a small shrub, 1-1.8 m high, and a wide
number of species are cultivated in gardens. This plant is found
throughout the world in India, Azerbhaijan, Kasan, Faras etc
(Quraishi, et al., 2019)
Taxonomical Classification
Kingdom Plantae
Subkingdom Tracheobionta
Superdivision Spermatophyta
Division Magnoliophyta
Class Magnoliopsida
Subclass Rosidae
Order Rosales
Family Rosaceae
Genus Rosa L.
Species Rosa
damascene Mill. (USDA, 2019)
Vernacular Name and etymology
Arabic Ward-e-Ahmer
Bengal Golap
Gujarati Moshamee Gulab
Hindi Gulab
Kannad Rojahu
Malayalam Rojapuvvu
Marathi Gulab
Persian Gul-e-Surkh
*
Correspondence: Ayshah Hashimi
E-mail: hashimiaqs@gmail.com
Received Aug 06, 2019; Accepted Sep 04, 2019; Publishe d Nov 29,
2019
doi: http://dx.doi.org/10.5667/tang.2019.0017
©2019 by CellMed Orthocellular Medicine Pharmaceutical Association
This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC license.
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/3.0/)

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Punjabi Gulab
Tamil Rojapoo
Telegu Gulabi,Roja,Panniru
Urdu Gulab
French Quatre Saisons
Spanish Rosal de damasco, Rosalfino de olor
(Anonymous, 2007) (Quraishi, et al., 2019)
Figure: Rose Flower
Plant description
Rosa damascene is a climbing perennial shrub with large
hooked prickles. The stem is branched, prickly, erect and
woody. Leaves are compound, imparipinnate and petiolate.
Flowers are complete, hermaphrodite, perigynous with red,
white and pink colour (Quraishi, et al., 2019). Macroscopically,
Flowers are stalked, pinkish consist of sepals, petals and
stamens attached to pedicle with thalamus, and stalk is light
green, slender, covered with numerous prickles and hairs.
Sepals 5, free, 1.3-2.4 cm long, unequal, leaf like having
creamish green to yellowish green colour with glandular hairs.
Petals numerous, pinkish yellow, 1.5-4.2 cm long, 1.3-2.5cm
wide, smooth obviate to sub-cordate. Stamens numerous, free,
unequal, dorsifixed, dark brown, filament 0.3-0.5 cm long,
carpels free, ovary inferior, styles lateral, hairy, free and stigma
terminal (Anonymous, 2007).
Microscopic view
Sepals shows single layered epidermis on both surfaces,
numerous long, unicellular hairs, both epidermis have
mesophyll consisting of round to oval, thin walled,
parenchymatous cells and vascular bundles. Petal shows lower
epidermis papillose and without cuticle, and upper epidermis
single layered with thin striated cuticle, followed by mesophyll
consisting of oval to polygonal, elliptical, thin-walled,
parenchymatous cells, number of vascular bundles found
scattered in this zone.
Powder; light brown in colour, fragments of petal of epidermis
consisting of thin –walled, sinuous cells to form papillae,
xylem vessel with spiral thickenings long, pointed, uniseriate,
unicellular hair and stalked capitate glandular hairs
(Anonymous, 2007)
Chemical constituents
Rosa damascene contain 4-amino-furazan-3-carboxylic acid,
citronellol, 2-trifluoromethylbenzoic acid 2-octyl ester,α-Pinene,
β-Pinene, β-Myrcene, α-Terpinene, β-ocimene, undecanoic acid
isopropyl ester, 2-amino-propionic acid, N-butyl-2-decanamine,
nonadecane, β-citronellol, geraniol, nerol, geranyl acetate,
eugenol, methyleugenol, terpenes, glycosides, flavonoids, and
anthocyanins etc ( Koksa, et al., 2015) ( Hajhashem, et al.,
2010) (Verma , et al., 2011)
Taste
Astringent (Anonymous, 2007)
Parts used
Flowers, Flower buds, petals, stamens, oils and extract
(Anonymous, 2007)
Dosage
3 to 5grams
Adverse Effects
Harmful for sexual power, cold and cough
Correctives
Pimpinella anisum L.
Substitute
Viola odorata
Products of Rosa damascene Mill.
·Rose Water
·Rose oil
·Dried Flower
·Rose Hip
(Boskabady, et al., 2011)
Traditional uses of Rosa damascene Mill.
·The decoction of flowers of Rosa damascene was
used for the strengthening of heart, eye washing as
an antiseptic, mouth wash, skin glowing, chest and
abdominal pain, menstrual problem, laxative, and
insomnia, etc
·Rose and honey mixture is used for gargling and it
is very effective for throat problems
·Paste of rose petals on face is used for pimples and
clear facial skin
·The root of rose is beneficial against hemorrhage
and diarrhea
·Rose oil with vinegar, local application is
beneficial in headache and cures insomnia
·Local application on head and its inhalation and
instillation in nose also relieves headache and act as
a relaxant
·Oral intake of its cures bilious dysentery , gastritis
and intestinal wound
·Local application is beneficial in stomatitis, oral
thrush, and blephritis
(Mahboub, 2016) (Andalib, et al., 2011) (Kirtikar , et al., 1986)
(Chopra , et al., 1958) (Dymock , et al., 1980) (Nicolov , et al.,
1976) (Baitar, 2003)
PHARMACOLOGICAL STUDIES
Anti-solar activity of Rosa damascene Mill.
Tabrizi, et al., done an in vitro study on Rosa damascene
extract and prepared various solvent mixtures like acetate:
ethanol, water: ethanol, and ether by maceration and soxhletion
method. The result showed that extracts can effectively absorb
UV radiation in the range of 200-400 nm .The study also

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subjected the plant extract with oil and water cream base and
sun protection factor (SPF) was determined and suggested that
the extract with cream base showed an effective SPF (Tabrizi ,
et al., 2003)
Anti -aging activity of Rosa damascene Mill.
Jafari, et al., performed study on Drosophilia flies and the flies
supplemented by the extract of Rosa damascene. And study
concluded that the plant exhibited decreased in mortality of
flies without effecting any secondary physiological mechanism
( Jafari, et al., 2008)
Another study was done by Krishnan, et al., on polyherbal
formulation by using aqueous extract of Rosa damascene
flower, Clerodendrum paniculatum leaves, Murraya Koengii
leaves and Annona squamosal leaves which exhibit anti- aging
properties by increasing the collagen content in human dermal
fibroblast. The study showed significant result against standard
control drug by up regulating the Collagen-I gene expression
and promoted building of collagen matrix (Krishnan, et al.,
2017)
Skin glowing property of Rosa damascene Mill.
Haque, et al., performed a survey study on 43 plants from 32
families under 40 genera. These plants are mainly from herbal
cosmetics. The study suggest skin glowing property in rose
(Haque, et al., 2018)
Antimicrobial activity of Rosa damascena Mill.
Shohayeb, et al., completed a study on Gul-e-Surkh (Rosa
damscena Mill.) and petals were subjected to water, hexane,
and ethanol and fractionated with ethyl acetate, butanol and
chloroform. The extracts were evaluated against eleven gram-
positive, gram-negative, acid- fast bacteria and three fungi. The
study concluded that the extracts showed moderate broad
spectrum antimicrobial activity ( Shohayeb, et al., 2014)
Relaxant activity of Rosa damascena Mill.
Boskabady, et al., done an animal study on guinea pig tracheal
chains to study the effect of ethanolic extract and essential oil
of Rosa damascene as relaxant (bronchodilator) in comparison
with saline as negative control and theophylline as positive
control. In both groups, the tracheal chains were contracted by
KCl in one experiment and in another experiment, contracted
by methacholine. The extract and essential oil of Rosa
damascene showed relatively potent relaxant effects compared
with the effect of saline (Boskabady, et al., 2006).
Other pharmacological studies
·Antioxidant activity (Yassa , et al., 2009)
·Anti-inflammatory activity ( Hajhashem, et al., 2010)
·Analgesic activity (Bani, et al., 2014)
·Antidepressant (Nyeem, et al., 2006)
·Nephroprotective activity (Khaliq, et al., 2015)
·Anti- diabetic activity (Gholamhoseinian, et al.,
2009)
·Anti HIV activity ( Mahmood , et al., 1996)
CONCLUSION
Rosa damascene Mill. is one of the famous ornamental and
widely used herb in traditional medicine and many
pharmacological studies showed its potential therapeutic
benefits against various diseases and in cosmetics, the results
are similar to the standard drugs. There is an immense
obligation to scientifically explore and evident it’s medicinal as
well as cosmeceutical values at the molecular level with the
help of latest tools and techniques of biotechnology.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
None
CONFLICT OF INTEREST
The authors have no conflicting financial interests.
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