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A REVIEW ON THE NATURAL RESOURCES USE AS HAIR COLOUR
AND HAIR DYE
Ashwini A. Zanke*, Prof. R. R. Popat, Bhakti V. Mali, Ananta B. Ghonge and Akashay
V. Patil
Dr. Rajendra Gode College of Pharmacy, Malkapur 443101 Maharashtra India.
ABSTRACT
Hair colour is one of the oldest and most well-known cosmetics that
have been used by many ancient cultures in different parts of the world
for not only women but also for men. Synthetic oxidative hair dyes
available in the market contain combination of peroxide and ammonia
which damage hair and causes allergic reactions. Also, Further the
people using synthetic dyes are exposed the risk of breast cancer,
urinary bladder cancer and non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma. Hair dyes
derived from plants to solve these problems and are safe to use. A few
of these natural herbals are henna, clove, cinnamon, beets, fenugreek
seeds, walnuts¸ etc. The developed oil hair colour may provide multifunctional effects such
as softening¸ conditioning effect, promotion of growth and density of hair¸ etc. In this article,
the types of used plants for hair colour and hair care products are discussed.[1]
KEYWORD: hair colour, henna, clove, cinnamon, beets, fenugreek seeds, walnuts.
INTRODUCTION
The use of hair colour is not new. The art of hair dyeing was used by Egyptians from
vegetables dyes from the early 5000 years BC.[1] The first artificial dye was synthesized in
1856, and permanent hair colorants have been used commercially for over 100 years. Henna
was the most Popular and is still one of the popular dye. But instead of getting black colour,
red to copper red colour was obtained. Loss of natural hair colour is due to varied reason like
genetic influence, effect of environmental factors. Though permanent synthetic hair dyes are
available in varied Colour ranges, they have the disadvantage of producing hypersensitive
reactions. Also studies have shown permanent hair colour have produced cancer. A need was
felt to formulate a product which is safe for use and does not have any problem of
WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES
SJIF Impact Factor 7.632
Volume 9, Issue 5, 270-277 Review Article ISSN 2278 – 4357
Article Received on
21 Feb. 2020,
Revised on 12 March 2020,
Accepted on 03 April 2020
DOI: 10.20959/wjpps20205-16016
*Corresponding Author
Dr. Ashwini A. Zanke
Dr. Rajendra Gode College
of Pharmacy, Malkapur
443101 Maharashtra India.
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Ashwini et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences
hypersensitive reaction. In the present investigation the formulation is developed to getnatural
black colour using combination of natural products. The main aim of this investigation is to
formulate natural and safe hair colour. The dyeing of hair has been practiced since the time
of earliest Man. The use of naturaldyes on the hair has not made very great progress, and
this is due to a number of factors that should not be the reason for despair.
1. Natural dyes are not very stable in solution, are prone to oxidation, browning,
discoloration, pH colour shift, fading and attack by UV light. However, none of these
adverse effects are applicable to the dry powdered natural dye.
2. A single natural dye is not the right colour, and only henna or walnut seem to be suitable
to colour the hair, perhaps with to tint blond hair.
Role of formulating ingredient
Henna
The principle colouring compound of Henna is “Lawson,” a red□orange collared
compound present in dried leaves in a concentration of 1□1.5% w/w. Lawson is
proposed to be used as a non□oxidizing hair colouring agent at a maximum
concentration of 1.5% in the cosmetic product.
[3]
Other components in henna such as flavonoids and Gallic acid contribute as organic
mordents to the colouring process. Carbohydrates give the henna paste a suitable consistency
to hair attachment.[4] Henna has affinity to the keratin in the mildly acidic environment
(pH=5.5).[5] Natural henna is usually hypoallergenic but allergic reactions occurred in mixed
types including black henna. This was caused by chemical compounds consisting of para-
henylenediamine¸ 2-nitro-4-phenylenediamine¸ 4aminophenol and 3- aminophenol.[6] Henna
has also antifungal activity against Malassezia species (causative organism of dandruff).[ 3]
Henna balances the pH of the scalp for preventing premature hair fall and graying of hair.[7]
Henna leaf paste used for alleviating jaundice, skin diseases¸ smallpox¸ etc. Extract of
Hennaleaves with ethanol (70%) showed significant hypoglycaemic and hypolipidaemic
activities in diabetic mice.[8]
Walnut
Juglone (5-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone) can be extracted from different parts of Walnut
tree. Juglone is an isomer of the more known lawsone (2-Hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone), the
coloring agent of Henna and both are some of the oldest dyes used throughout history for
dyeing hair.[9]
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Leaves and hull of walnut fruits is used for hair dyeing. Walnuts is contain compounds: Oleic
acid, macadamia, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, methionine, cysteine, tryptophan, threonine.[10]
1,4-Benzoquinone is a small organic compound and, in principle, its low molecular weight
makes it suitable for semipermanent hair dye formulations. It can be considered a natural
brown-dyeing source being it found in young shoots of the pear (genus Pyrus L.), where it
exhibits strong antibacterial activity.[9] Walnut leaves are used in traditional medicine for
external applications such as eczema, loss of hair, scalp itching, peeling and dandruff and
treat sun burns.[11]
Fenugreek
It is used as a conditioner for the hair.[7] The fenugreek contain significant amount of protein
content which may help in hair growth and contain riched amount of flavanoid, which has the
antioxidant activity by scavenging free radicals and preventing hair fall.[12] Also, seeds
extract is used as hair cleanser.[13]
Cinnamon
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum Verum) is one of the spices that has been used for thousands of
years for its enhancement of taste and its potential medical benefits.[14] It is a spice obtained
from the inner bark of several tree species from the genus Cinnamomum. Clove (Syzygium
Aromaticum) comes from the spruce that classified in Myrtaceae family.[15]
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Cloves are also a type of spice that is widely used for cooking and herbal medicine. cinnamon
contain tannins that produce a yellow colour, have a water-soluble characteristic, does not
crystallize and mix with proteins from the suspension. A natural hair colouring from
cinnamon and clove can be identified from the production of the colour that is a brownish
yellow colour.
Clove
Clove contain tannins that produce a yellow colour, have a water-soluble characteristic, does
not crystallizeandmix with proteins from the suspension.
A natural hair colouring from cinnamon and clove can be identified from the production of
the colour that is a brownish yellow colour. The composition that produces the brightness
smoothness colour, hair shine, and the most favoured colour.[15]
Beetroot
Beetrootisconsist of fresh root of beta vulgaris. Family Chenopodiodeae. Having synonous
sugar beet, root vegetable of sources it consist of fresh root of beet vulgaris and uses It
commomly use as liver dieases colouring agent.
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Fatty liver, high blood pressure, reducle the blood pressure Lowering the try gycerid level in
blood. chemical constituent betanin, beta balmic acid, trimethaglycine, indica zanthine.[16]
Uses of hair dyes
1. Improving hair appearance.
2. To cover grey or white hair.
3. It is used as conditioner and nourisher.
4. It removes Dandruff.
5. Most important use is colouring agent.
Evaluation of the cream formulation
Following are the parameters for the evaluations of cream as per standard guidelines.
1. Physical Appearance
The color is observed visually. In which the cream is observed against dark
background. The average of three reading is recorded.
2. Phase separation
The formulated cream is kept intact in a closed container at 25 – 30 0C not exposed to light.
Phase separation is observed carefully every 24 hrs for 30 days. Any change in phase
separation is checked.
3. Viscosity
Viscosity of the formulation is determined by Brookfield Viscometer II model using spindle
no. S – 64 at 20 rpm at a temperature of 25 0C and the determinations are carried out in
triplicate and the average of three readings is recorded.
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4. pH of the cream
The pH of various formulations is determined by using digital pH meter. About 1g of the
cream is weighed and dissolved in 100 ml of distilled water and stored for two hours. The
measurement of pH of each formulation is done in triplicate and average values are
calculated.
5. Spreadability
Spreadability denotes the extent of area to which the formulation readily spreads on
application to skin or hair. The bioavailability efficiency of a formulation also depends on its
spreading value. The spreadability is expressed in terms of time in seconds taken by two
slides to slip off from the cream, placed in between the slides, under certain load. Lesser the
time taken for separation of the two slides, better the spreadability. Two glass slides of
standard dimensions are taken. For this purpose, cream is applied in between two glass slides
and they are pressed together to obtain a film of uniform thickness by placing 1000 gm
weight for 5 minutes. Thereafter a weight (10 gm) is added to the pan and the top plate is
subjected to pull with the help of string attached to the hook. The time in which the upper
glass slide moves over the lower plate to cover a distance of 10 cm is noted. The spreadability
(S) can be calculated using the formula.
S = M × L
T
where,
M = Weight tied to upper slide L = Length of glass slide
T = Time taken to separate the slides
6. Extrudability
It is useful empirical test to measure the force required to extrude the material from a tube.
The formulations are filled in standard caped collapsible tube and sealed. The tube is weighed
and recorded. The tube is placed between two glass slides and is clamped. A 500 gm weight
is placed over the glass slide and cap is opened. The amount of cream extruded are collected
and weighed. The percent of cream extruded is calculated and grades are allotted (++++
Excellent, +++ Good, ++ Fair, + Poor).
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7. Stability study
It is the responsibility of the manufacturers to see that medicine reaches the consumer in an
active form. So the stability of pharmaceutical is an important criteria. Stability of medicinal
products may be defined as the capacity of a particular formulation in a specific container to
remain within its physical, chemical, microbial, therapeutic and toxicological specification,
i.e. stability of drug is its ability to resists deterioration. 90% of labeled potency is generally
recognized as the minimum acceptable potency level.
Deterioration of drug may take several forms arising from changes in physical, chemical and
microbiological properties. The changes may affect the therapeutic value of preparation or
increase its toxicity.
Accelerated stability testing
Since the period of stability testing can be as long as two years, it is time consuming and
expensive. Therefore it is essential to devise a method that will help rapid prediction or
long‐term stability of drug. The accelerated stability testing is defined as the validated
method by which the product stability may be predicted by storage of the product under
conditions that accelerate the change in defined and predictable manner. The stability studies
of formulated cream are carried out 40/75 (0 C/RH) and at room temperature for one month.
The effects of temperature, humidity and time on the physical characteristics of the creams
are for assessing the stability of the prepared formulations.
The stability studies are carried out when the room temperature is 20 to 250 C.
8. Skin irritations open patch test
Sensitizing the potential of formulation is to be tested. Hence, a small quantity has to be
applied on the fore arm to check for any local reaction like irritation and erythrema within
three hours of application.
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