Sustainability Issues of Various Denim Washing Methods

Abstract

Denim washing is increasingly joining the list of indispensable processes of meeting the demands of the world’s shifting fashion industry. Other than this, there is a rising trend in the sustainability perception among both producers and customers in the modern world. However, denim washing is considered to have direct impacts on the environment because of its chemical discharge and many other pollutants emitted during the process which affect water supplies. In the process, the denim industry encounters challenges at every level. Therefore, there is need for studying sustainable problems associated with denim washing. The unseen soul of the denim industry is technology, as nothing can be transformed without technological advancement. Sustainability problems of conventional washing have been addressed in this paper (i.e. pp spray washing, bleaching washing, stone washing, sand blasting etc.). Furthermore, the paper describes how sustainability can be achieved through the most recent washing techniques, such as laser, waterjet, nanobubble, ozone, NoStone, potassium permanganate alternatives etc. The introduction of new technologies has triggered a dramatic shift in the denim washing industry in terms of water usage, electricity and chemicals as well as improved quality. Consequently, it is undoubtful that the recent technologies in denim washing are crucial in making the industry sustainable. Moreover, the paper describes the idea of digitally printed denim and the available software for measuring sustainability in the process of denim washing.

Full text

ISSN: 2623-6257 (Print) 2623-6281 (Online) Journal homepage: www.textile-leather.com Journal doi: 10.31881/TLR
Tex le & Leather Review
Sustainability Issues of Various Denim
Washing Methods
Md. Khalilur Rahman Khan, Sayedatunnesa Jintun
How to cite: Khan MKR, Jintun S. Sustainability Issues of Various Denim Washing Methods. Tex le
& Leather Review. 2021. h ps://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2021.01
How to link: h ps://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2021.01
Published: 8 March 2021
This work is licensed under a Crea ve Commons A ribu on-ShareAlike 4.0 Interna onal License

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Sustainability Issues of Various Denim Washing Methods
Md. Khalilur Rahman KHAN*, Sayedatunnesa JINTUN
Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering and Applied Sciences, Bangladesh University of Business
and Technology (BUBT), Dhaka, Bangladesh
*khalilbutex@gmail.com
Review
UDC 677.074:677.027.13:628.515
DOI: 10.31881/TLR.2021.01
Received 5 January 2021; Accepted 25 February 2021; Published Online 8 March 2021
ABSTRACT
Denim washing is increasingly joining the list of indispensable processes of meeting the demands of the world’s
shifting fashion industry. Other than this, there is a rising trend in the sustainability perception among both
producers and customers in the modern world. However, denim washing is considered to have direct impacts on
the environment because of its chemical discharge and many other pollutants emitted during the process which
affect water supplies. In the process, the denim industry encounters challenges at every level. Therefore, there is
need for studying sustainable problems associated with denim washing. The unseen soul of the denim industry
is technology, as nothing can be transformed without technological advancement. Sustainability problems
of conventional washing have been addressed in this paper (i.e. pp spray washing, bleaching washing, stone
washing, sand blasting etc.). Furthermore, the paper describes how sustainability can be achieved through the
most recent washing techniques, such as laser, waterjet, nanobubble, ozone, NoStone, potassium permanganate
alternatives etc. The introduction of new technologies has triggered a dramatic shift in the denim washing
industry in terms of water usage, electricity and chemicals as well as improved quality. Consequently, it is
undoubtful that the recent technologies in denim washing are crucial in making the industry sustainable.
Moreover, the paper describes the idea of digitally printed denim and the available software for measuring
sustainability in the process of denim washing.
KEYWORDS
Denim, Washing methods, Sustainability, Enzyme, Ozone, Water jet fading
INTRODUCTION
Overall, the texle industry, and specically the denim industry, has always been a valuable industry, thus its
extension expands its centrality in decades to come. Among all the exisng texle products, no other kind
of fabric has aracted such an acknowledgment as denim. Denim has been used extensively by dierent
generaons of people, sexual orientaons and classes [1,2]. On the basis of all-me fashion, denim may be
considered a fabric and can be exceponally a stylish fabric. For the sustainment during the fast-changing
fashion, denim has undergone consistent advancement [3]. There is a high developing denim demand from
the youth, linked to reasons such as denim’s higher quality, strength, comfort level, low maintenance, and
simple accessibility. Worldwide, the showcase of denim is expected to rise profusely in the coming years.
Denim washing stands out as a part of the essenal producon processes needed to meet the rapidly rising
and changing fashion market’s demands [2].

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Brundtland (once known as the World Commission on Environment and Development) denes the buzzword,
sustainability, as “improvement that meets the present desires without relinquishing future generaons’
capacity” [4]. Literally, sustainability refers to the act of preserving scarce and vital natural resources for
future generaons. Sustainability, in most manufacturing industries, is a primary move. Sustainable prac-
ces explain the involvement beyond the customers and business, while the environment and commu-
nity are essenal [5]. Currently, all are enthused to engage sustainability in the design and manufacturing
processes in the connuously changing fashion trends [6]. Sustainability can be idened through three
components: environmental, social and nancial sustainability.
There is a close associaon between texles and governance, social and environmental problems. However,
the rising awareness of the social and environmental problems aecng the texle sector is the reason
behind the increase in sustainability measures’ implementaon over the past few years. The crucial conse-
quences of sustainability in the texle industry pertain to denim manufacture as well. In the phase of manu-
facturing, sustainability is among the key challenges in the denim industry. In the industry, there exists a
huge desire to ensure every phase of producon is sustainable [7].
However, during the selecon of denim garments, customers are inuenced by factors such as fashion, arac-
veness, and aesthecs. Denim clothing, in the primary process, does not inherit the customer’s desired
properes. However, it becomes eecve aer washing due to its new strength, comfort, soness, look
and low cost, leading to the customer’s total sasfacon [8]. Washing is considered an essence of nished
denim and is the nal stage of denim manufacture. However, dierent techniques of denim washing are
employed to achieve denim’s fading eect, soness, as well as relaxed feeling [9,10]. Besides, the indus-
trial processes are linked to various environmental implicaons, mainly surrounding the heavy chemical
usage and the extensive use of energy and water resources, eecve wastewater treatment etc. Jeans or
denim are also considered the world’s highest pollutant texle products, as a result of their indigo dying, the
amount of water required to achieve excellent washes as well as chemicals used [11]. In terms of achieving
sustainability in the denim industry, every kind of washing technique has their own merits and demerits.
In the past few years, various washing results have become prominent. Advanced materials, the latest
technology and environment friendly washing techniques are establishing the sustainable producon of
denim. Therefore, a denim producer must be conscious, versale, eecve, and technologically aware of
sustainability. Bangladesh’s denim industry’s future set-up will certainly aect the percepon of modern
technologies of washing. From this perspecve, this study aims at expounding on the recent developments
in sustainability achievement during denim washing.
METHODS FOR ACHIEVING SUSTAINABILITY IN DENIM WASHING
The denim industry discharges vast quanes of wastewater into surrounding streams and bodies of water,
thus leaving a large water footprint [2]. With tradional washing recipes, every jean consumes 150 grams
of chemicals, 70 litres of water and 1 kWh of power during the stage of denim washing [12,13]. The old-
fashioned and me-consuming techniques are, therefore, not ideal for denim mass producon and the
manufacturing cost also increases [14]. Because of the high costs of manufacturing resulng from energy,
chemicals and water usage, an industrial-scale installaon is viewed as a big concern for the achievement
of a sustainable process. However, sustainability issues in denim washing may be categorized as follows:
i) Less water consumption for the blue planet.
ii) Elimination of wastewater.
iii) Reuse of water.

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iv) Less chemicals for sustainable future.
v) Use of environmentally friendly chemicals and materials.
vi) Less energy for efficient manufacturing.
vii) The protection of human health.
viii) Shorter process.
ix) Process optimization in terms of time, temperatures and raw materials.
x) Quality improvement.
xi) Increasing productivity.
xii) Longevity of washing equipment.
KHAN MKR, XX. Sustainability Issues of Various Denim Washing Methods. TLR 0 (0) 2020 00-00.
affect the perception of modern technologies of washing. From this perspective, this study aims at
expounding on the recent developments in sustainability achievement during denim washing.
METHODS FOR ACHIEVING SUSTAINABILITY IN DENIM WASHING
The denim industry discharges vast quantities of wastewater into surrounding streams and bodies of
water, thus leaving a large water footprint [2]. With traditional washing recipes, every jean consumes
150 grams of chemicals, 70 litres of water and 1 kWh of power during the stage of denim washing
[12,13]. The old-fashioned and time-consuming techniques are, therefore, not ideal for denim mass
production and the manufacturing cost also increases [14]. Because of the high costs of
manufacturing resulting from energy, chemicals and water usage, an industrial-scale installation is
viewed as a big concern for the achievement of a sustainable process. However, sustainability issues
in denim washing may be categorized as follows:
i) Less water consumption for the blue planet.
ii) Elimination of wastewater.
iii) Reuse of water.
iv) Less chemicals for sustainable future.
v) Use of environmentally friendly chemicals and materials.
vi) Less energy for efficient manufacturing.
vii) The protection of human health.
viii) Shorter process.
ix) Process optimization in terms of time, temperatures and raw materials.
x) Quality improvement.
xi) Increasing productivity.
xii) Longevity of washing equipment.
Figure 1. Significant parameters for sustainable denim washing [15]
Figure 1. Significant parameters for sustainable denim washing [15]
SUSTAINABILITY ISSUES OF CONVENTIONAL DENIM WASHING
Sandblasting
Sandblas ng treatment method washes the denim surface by using rough, high-speed impelling materials.
Despite being banned in most countries, it is s ll employed in some parts of the world, mainly through radar,
because it provides an inexpensive and simple technology of genera ng the an cipated e ect on denim
[16]. Several brands, a emp ng to end the fatal method, prohibit the economically favoured sandblas ng.
If sandblas ng is carried out without adequate protec ve equipment, it can be extremely hazardous to
employees’ health. The process produces vast quan  es of silica dust that can be inhaled by workers, posing
a great risk for a lethal pulmonary disease called silicosis. In an a empt to achieve a worn look, the use of
brush or sandpaper strategy exposes workers to work-related asthma hazards because of the dust [17].
Stone Washing
For a long period of  me, pumice stone has been used in the denim industry in crea ng an abrasion e ect
on the denim fabric. The denim style is characterized by a vintage, mildly distressed look. Despite several
downsides a ached to the use of stones, the abrasion e ect remains the best solu on. Stones, for instance,
could subject denim to wear and tear, speci cally on the waistbands and hems. In washing machines, every-
thing is abraded, including the jeans’ rivets and metal bu ons. Since the stones are disposed of, the process
leads to the challenge of waste from the grit. By washing the denim repeatedly, the stones are supposed to
be en rely removed [18]. The use of pumice stones by machinery to abrade denim clothing is harmful. The
crucial step of unloading the batch to remove stones incurs a  me consuming, laborious process. To avoid
stones remaining in the pockets, which can ruin the garments in later steps, the garment must be checked
by the operator one by one. Dumping of waste stones is another environmental concern as it needs appro-
priate land lling procedures. Stone inventories’ management needs are an addi onal burden for factories
occupying valuable areas of land. Pumice stones are made up of fragments of ferrous and heavy metals

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that should eventually be separated from the garments with repeated washes [19]. Material-based stone
washing other than pumice stones leads to serious risks to the health of workers [17].
Bleaching Wash
The denim bleach strategy can be ulized in decolorizing indigo from denim, a process that involves a strong
oxidave agent. The foremost commonly used chemicals ulized within the industry amid washing, with or
without the expansion of stone include potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, calcium hypochlorite,
and sodium hypochlorite. The resulng decolorizaon is largely more apparent, depending on the treat
-
ment me, temperature and the intensity of the amount of the bleach liquor. The commonly used technique
of denim bleaching is chlorine bleaching through sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl). Monitoring this process is
dicult i.e. the same degree of bleaching may not be easily achieved in repeated runs [20]. However, the
release of hypochlorous acid and chlorine is environmentally harmful, as it threatens living organisms and
harms the environment. Moreover, since it acidies, it may cause pulmonary complicaons like the acute
respiratory syndrome (ARDS), due to aspiraon that may turn fatal. Despite its success in bleaching itself, it
oen produces an unpleasant scent in the resultant garment. Notably, sodium hypochlorite is an extreme
irritant and can potenally impose substanal chemical burns on workers. Aer the bleaching process,
the remaining hypochlorite should be expelled from the denim. Reducing agent treatment may be used in
eliminang residual chlorine, also known as residual hypochlorite, in a process called anchlor process. As a
reducing agent, thiosulphate or sodium metabisulte is used in denim. When mixed with water, it discharges
a sharp and unpleasantly smelling gas and SO2-, which harms the ecosystem and spoils water [2]. There is
a common problem of yellowing, resulng from the residual chlorine from the process of washing in this
case. Therefore, chlorine and manganese, which is a heavy metal, should be evaded for the sake of the envi-
ronment. Tradional hypochlorite bleaching has been recognized to harm the stretch bres and potenally
leads to complaints [21]. Hydrogen peroxide stands out as the cheapest method of bleaching. Also, during
its storage, it has a high degree of whiteness and is dicult to be yellowed. However, it is disadvantageous
in that, under alkaline condions, high temperature bleaching requires energy eciency improvement and
may lead to substanal bre damage [22].
Potassium Permanganate (PP) Spray Washing
Potassium permanganate (PP) is an oxidizing agent used for denim’s local bleaching and nishing. Besides, PP
spray is used on jeans for lightening a parcular area as well as creang whisker eects on denim. However,
potassium permanganate (PP) spray is the most hazardous procedure for sta’s safety and health. When
using a spray-gun to convert chemicals to micro-parcles, workers performing this strategy absorb the micro-
parcles, which causes lung problems, despite the implementaon of various protecve precauons [23].
In this method, washing and neutralizaon consumes huge water volumes. Failure to eecvely neutralize
leads to yellowing. PP sprays have adverse impacts on laborers, as coming into contact with it bothers and
burns the eyes and skin. Therefore, factory sta dealing with this chemical without safety equipment and
proper venlaon systems may be at risk of long-term and short-term health problems [24].
Enzymatic Stoning Wash (Bio-stoning)
There has been a rise in the global awareness on enzyme use in texle processing aimed at minimizing
polluon during texle producon resulng from their eco-friendly and toxicity characteriscs [25]. For
the enhancement of fabrics’ quality and comfort, enzymac treatment is more eecve than a variety of

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chemical and mechanical operaons. The enzymac stonewashing technique employing chemicals like cellu
-
lase is useful in the producon of denim’s stonewash look. The invenon of bio-stoning or enzymac stone-
washing enrely or partly replaced stonewashing. With the immense-looking market for distressed jeans’
garments, there is an increase in the use of enzymac stonewashing. Bio-stone washing has increased the
range of available nishes, opening up new opportunies of denim nishing. A small number of enzymes
may replace large quanes of pumice stones [26]. The enzymac stonewashing increases the jean load by
up to 50% as well as producing a soer nish and a perfect look [27,28]. This technique improves both the
clothing’s contrast and the abrasion eect. With paral or no use of stone, a fancy colour-fenced surface is
produced. Aer the enzyme treatment, its rinsing process is lower than pumice stonewashing. Moreover, it
has a lower stonewashing cost [29]. Jeans stonewashed through this process have more durability. Besides,
it ensures equal outcome under minimum volume, me, waste, water and machine damage. However, bio-
stoning involves the release of water and chemicals into the euent, thus the process is not friendly to the
environment [30]. Cellulase denim washing is highly precise and eecve; with high resulng reproduc-
ibility, consistency, and fading eects’ precision, as in the case of producvity [31]. While the outcomes
in acidic cellulase are quicker, too much back staining decreases the indigo colour and aects the fabrics’
strength. The best stonewashing choice is the neutral cellulase due to lesser back staining, wider pH prole,
and lesser strength loss than the acidic cellulase. It therefore lowers the need for rigid pH control producing
a more reproducible wash-to-wash nish [27]. Other cellulase applicaons in the texle industry include
the bio-polishing of garments. Cellulase has the capability to hydrolyse microbrils that protrude from the
garments’ coon surface. The microbrils, aer being damaged, appear to break away from the main body
of the bre leaving a smoother yarn’s surface [32]. Besides the enzymac treatment making the bres’
surface “polished”, it decreases not only the bres’ exural rigidity, but also the strength of breaking due
to the bre structure’s degradaon [33]. Gokarneshan et al. suggested that, to achieve a desired eect,
both stonewashing and biopolishing should be combined, which saves at least 30-50 litres of water per
kilogram of denim garments [34].
SUSTAINABILITY ISSUES OF LATEST DENIM WASHING
Enzymac Bleaching Wash (Bio-bleaching)
Enzymes have gained popularity as a substute for chemicals used in shading/bleaching and are denitely
advantageous in terms of wastewater treatment and the use of resources.
Laccases
Laccases are essenal enzymes in the achievement of eco-friendly blue denim bleaching process. They are
a part of the enzyme type of oxidoreductase. Generally, laccases do not work independently, but require a
chemical mediator to be applied between the enzyme and the indigo. The enzyme is oxidized in the pres-
ence of an aqueous medium where it aacks the mediator and converts it to free radicals. Ulmately, the
free radicals aack the indigo converng it into oxidized products [2]. Moreover, the primarily used media-
tors are harmful. However, this enzyme’s benet is the specic indigo dyes’ treatment and not in the bre
itself. The enzyme breaks down the indigo molecule without aecng other dyes like sulphur, direct or
reacve dyes [35].

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DeniLite® Cold
DeniLite® Cold is the new cold bleaching soluon from Novozymes. The current method is based on enzymes
named peroxidases, and operates without extra oxygen from either water or air. This new peroxidase has
a high reacon speed, with 90% of the reacon ending in 10 minutes. Based on the gentle bleaching condi-
ons, the cold bleaching technology enhances denim fabric longevity. The enzymac condions acng on
the fabric’s indigo dye are tremendously precise. This ensures that the fabric’s elascity and strength, unlike
in tougher bleaching chemicals, remains unchanged [36].
Combined Washing Concept
Denim washing has substanally reshaped denim fashion’s sales demands and potenal. Denim clothing
industry’s signicant breakthrough lies in the shades and results obtained, beginning from stonewashing to
the recent enzyme washing processes and bio-polishing concepts [37]. The rubbing of denim clothing pieces
is done through a combinaon of pumice stones and enzymes, or the ulizaon of chemicals. Novozymes
Denimax® Core, a recent wash processing plan from Novozymes, empowers the handling of the scrabbed
area that goes on prior to the combined desizing process. While the convenonal process has two rinses
and two baths, the combined process has one rinse and one bath, reducing the water usage for more than
50%. As a result of reduced procedures, heat savings may be achieved by shiing from any of the conven-
onal methods procedures to the combined process [38].
NOSTON E®+
NoStone®+, in conjuncon with Levi Strauss & Co., is the newly revamped system of denim washing, devel-
oped by Tonello. The system is developed to overcome the environmental, mechanical, and economic
constraints of stonewashing process. NoStone®+ framework’s premise is the stainless-steel rough drum,
which is linked to the washing machine cylinder. The drum is handled in a special way to make it more or less
abrasive, depending on the intensity of the desired eect or the needed treatment. The process’s nature is
mechanical rather than chemical. The outcomes of NoStone®+ are similar to those of stonewashing, while
also reducing the carbon footprint produced from the use of pumice stones. NoStone®+ also minimizes
manual labour, preparing me, emissions, generaon costs, and water usage. More so, it does not produce
sludge nor dust, does not harm the system, and according to Tonello, it produces a uniform eect in both
sampling and producon [39]. In conjuncon to the NoStone® technology, enzymes may also be ulized in
the accentuaon of NoStone® process’s impact [24].
Potassium Permanganate Alternatives
Spray treatment with potassium permanganate is the most convenonal and economical method [40].
Despite being an eecve technique, it has a high aquac toxicity, thus imposing risks on health and the
environment. Many countries have a duty or stringent rules to oer proof of prevenng such misuse [41].
Other developing chemical systems recently developed do not emit manganese into the atmosphere, as it
is a heavy, non-biodegradable metal [24].
OrganIQ Product
The organIQ bleaching technique, a proprietary of CHT Group, is the rst fully biodegradable and purely
organic denim bleaching agent that achieves sustainable, remarkable results. Applicaon of this technique

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does not require extra neutralizaon and does not pollute wastewater with hazardous contaminants, when
properly used. Under a combinaon of organIQ bleaching agent and organIQ biopower, there will be no
need to use chlorine, potassium permanganate, or stones. Moreover, the really uy products become
perfectly smooth and develop a precious character [42]. Modern techniques’ combinaon, such as organIQ
+ fog applicaon, produces fully eecve ecological washing results, and ensures resource protecon [43].
Nearbleach Sky White
Nearbleach Sky White, designed for localized bleaching, is applied in brush and spray technique, in combina-
on with hydrogen peroxide and the catalyst, Katalin Sky White, to achieve a controlled and quick bleaching
for denim garments of high whiteness. In this process, me and water is saved. Aer applicaon, there is
need for only a simple washing step, with no neutralizaon [44].
Acticell Technology Solution
Accell technology soluon is designed to produce bleaching eects, just like potassium permanganate
bleach. It also works best as an alternave product in achieving localized bleaching results (Accell RT, Ac-
cell B3). The desired outcome can also be achieved at any temperature, e.g. 60°C or room temperature.
The bleaching eect takes place during a heang operaon. The product has been cered by GOTS [45].
Garmon Avol Oxy White
Garmon Avol Oxy White is free from all drawbacks associated to potassium permanganate toxicology,
including toxicity to aquac creatures. Moreover, workers’ health is secured. It provides simple applicaon,
handling protecon, and a stunning consistency. Tumble drying or curing must be avoided as it is inappro-
priate and results in tensile loss and coon tearing [46].
Peristal BLI Eco
Alternavely, Peristal BLI Eco system is used instead of oxidave spray bleaching, which also ensures sustain-
ability and eecveness when dealing with denim jeans that are indigo-dyed. This method is eecve as
it does not contain any heavy metals nor chlorine, thus conforming to most environmental requirements,
like bluesign® and ZDHC. Moreover, the products are odourless and free from alkylphenol, formaldehyde,
ammonia, and heavy metals’ ethoxylates. Addionally, their oxidizing reacvity is very high. For the workers’
safety and security, there should be strict adherence to the crucial safety measures in the industry [47].
Ozone Washing
Ozone washing is an innovave waterless technology. The ozone imposes crucial eects on clothing as well
as the environment [48. 49]. The ozone is a triatomic molecule with three oxygen atoms. One of the ar-
cial methods of producing the ozone is corona discharge. The gas fades dyed texle fabrics by rupturing
the chromophores of natural or synthec bres. Due to the high oxidaon ability of the ozone (E=2.07 eV),
it can easily decompose complex aromac rings of dyes, resulng in decolorizaon. In order to generate
ozone (a strong oxidant gas), only air and electric energy is used [11]. On treated products, the ozone does
not leave secondary derivave products, because it is chemically unstable. The garment may be bleached
through this technique. During denim garment bleaching, the ozone is dissolved in the water in the washing
machine. Moreover, denim garment bleaching and fading may be done via the use of the ozone gas in closed

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chambers. When compared to other oxidizing bleaching agents, the use of the ozone gas is much faster, as
it only takes 15 minutes, while convenonal bleaching takes 30-50 minutes [2]. While the ozone nishing
uses two to three washes and rinses, stonewashing or chemical bleaching uses six to seven. Despite the
inability of the ozone to eliminate water use during jeans nishing, it greatly lowers water consumpon.
By decreasing the temperature needed and the amount of water that should be heated for wet nishing,
it decreases energy consumpon. Besides the reducon of chemical and water consumpon from 85% to
95%, and energy from 70% to 80%, Jeanologia’s G2 Dynamic technology is designed to guarantee a detoxed
and sustainable fabric. For instance, if 15 to 20 litres of water are required per kilogram of fabric, the whole
process will only require 0.5 to 3 litres of water per kilogram with G2 Dynamic [50]. G2 technology, by using
ambient air, develops the garments “sun-washed” eect with the real look of outdoor use. In addion, using
the ozone instead of some convenonal nishing eliminates the euent as well as the generaon of sludge
from the pumice stones. This technique is simple and friendly to the environment, because aer laundering,
the UV radiaon may deozonize the ozonized water [18]. Addionally, the ozone is applicable beyond shading,
such as in stonewashing, to replicate other processes of denim nishing. This approach is sustainable due
to its high quality, comparably beer performance, long-lasng eects of the operaon, low maintenance
costs, simple installaon, minimal bleaching producon costs, and high producon capacity and eciency.
Nonetheless, safety procedures and features should be key in the avoidance of workers’ deadly or dangerous
accidental exposure to the ozone gas. Since it runs in dry condions, the system enhances whiteness and
eradicates the jeans pockets’ back staining as well as other potenal organic spots [51].
Nanobubble e-Flow Technology
Nanobubble e-Flow technology can handle raw clothing and apply dierent chemicals, move the clothing
with the use of micro-nanobubbles (MNB) as the chemical product vehicle capable of directly geng inside
the bres [52]. The process involves injecon of atmospheric air into the electro-ow reactor and then
subjecng it to an electromechanical shock to generate wet air ow and nanobubbles [53]. Dierent chemical
products such as dyes, anmicrobials, liquid repellents, wrinkle-free resins, soeners etc. are used to pass
funconal properes to the denim. Through the applicaon of this modern technology, the revoluonary
feature is that certain items get into contact with garments with minimum water amount [54]. The nano-
bubbles’ skin has a duty to transport the chemicals to the garments [12]. Water and chemicals are homo-
geneously blended with the help of microbubbles and spread on the garment [55]. Nanobubble technology
boasts of signicant success such as 86% water use reducon, 97% wastewater reducon, extremely low
liquor rao of 1:1, the recycling of steam/water, energy use reducon up to 80%, 50% chemical products
saving, related chemical wastage reducon, reducon of the washing and drying process, as well as neces-
sary temperature reducon and reducon in CO2 emissions [54,56]. The method is, therefore, cost eec-
ve. It can create a washed look by laser as well as the wet ozone process creates a bleached look over the
denim [56]. The e-Flow process provides pre-shrinkage of the fabric, thus avoiding high shrinkage during
washing at home. Moreover, it improves the colour fastness to rubbing properes [53]. If the surface of the
fabric is meant to achieve a stonewashed eect by enduring a high degree of abrasion, the e-Flow tech-
nology, on the basis of aesthecs and sustainability, is a commercially viable choice. However, it is important
to consider the producvity factor. Chemical suppliers have produced cellulase enzymes usable in e-Flow,
such as the DyStar’s Lava® Cell NEF [57].

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Water Jet Fading
Convenonally, the jeans’ abrasion and whitening processes are done either with manual brushing or perman-
ganate sprays, whereby the two techniques are harmful to the respiratory system, skin and the eyes. By
using water during whitening, Tonello’s Water Brush tackles the above disadvantages [58]. Hydro jet treat-
ment oen needs hydro jet nozzles’ contact to the one or both surfaces of fabric. There is much relaon-
ship between the degree of colour washout, paern clarity, resulng fabric soness and the nature of the
dye in the fabric and the manner and degree of uid impact energy added to the fabric. Blue indigo dyed
denim produces exceponally essenal outcomes [18]. Fascinangly, Tonello’s water brush uses water, but
does not absorb it. The water used in garment whitening is gathered by a large tank under the spray robot.
The tank lters the water then recycles it back to the robot. Again, the highlights include its zero inuence
on the workers and the ecosystem, and the reducon of resource use [58]. Tonello has an aim of replacing
the manual and permanganate brushing techniques with highly pressurized water through Water Brush
incorporaon in nishing processes to create the same worn eect without applying heavy chemicals.
The chemicals not only pollute the environment but also pose risks to the workers involved in the process.
Laser Technology
To avoid some of the shortcomings of the tradional technologies, a new revoluonary approach has been
established under laser technology’s advent in the texle industry [59]. It is another sustainable opon in
the denim washing eld. This is the fastest growing and approved technology of the denim industry, and
has made denims go green [13]. Laser nishing is referred to as denim spray painng. Lasers are employed
during laser engraving as well as laser marking. The method is oen used to replace environmentally disad-
vantageous and potenally hazardous typical dry techniques, such as grinding, destroying, hand sanding,
sand blasng etc. [59]. Via this technique, the dye on the surface is decomposed by the laser beam and the
subsequent components are converted to vapour and expelled away. The eciency of fading is dependent
on the wavelength of the laser beam, pulse duraon and power density [3]. Laser technology provides in-
nite exploraon and innovaon possibilies for designers. This technique creates paerns carried out by
computer-managed processes, such as even images, text, lines and dots [13]. Therefore, it can be used in
creang personalized paerns and designs or generang worn-out eects like rips, abrasions and whiskers.
It is also capable of providing detailed duplicability of the applied results. Moreover, laser engraving is useful
in fabrics’ burning and colour fading to generate embroidered designs in the cloth. Lasers are preferred
for low-cost sealed CO2 and laser engraving [60]. There is a possibility of pre-programming the laser with
designs that may exactly replicate the ancipated look obtained through manual sandblasng and sanding
with considerably minimal labour and physical hazards. To produce a variety of denim looks, it requires less
water, chemicals and electricity. For an enhanced laser eect to mimic heavier bleaching applicaons, an
addion of laser boosters to the fabric may be eecve [24]. Furthermore, it reduces producon costs and
saves me. According to experts, these technologies have led to 500% producon increase per workplace
and 50% fabric strength loss [13]. Moreover, the soware, such as E-Mark and CarbonLaze, increases indus-
trial eciency, gives room for more innovaon, simplies design, and decreases steps of pre-producon
process. In conjuncon to an eco-washing system, laser technology for nishing jeans has led to outstanding
environmental benets. This new technology saves 85% of chemical products, 67% of water, and 62% of
electricity [13]. The most complex issue associated to laser processes is the inaccuracy of the laser beam
magnitude. When low, it is dicult to obtain the eect, and on high laser strength, it may destroy the bre
bonds, leading to tearing and chemical damage [1]. Furthermore, the fading process is linked to a high eye

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KHAN MKR, JINTUN S. Sustainability Issues of Various Denim Washing Methods. TLR 0 (0) 2021 00-00.
damage potenal [3]. It was hard to operate and maintain the early laser systems. However, the current
laser systems are easier in terms of service and maintenance [60].
Plasma Treatment
With a wide range of sustainable technologies, many would consider the plasma treatment as an eec-
ve way of replacing tradional chemical processes, because it facilitates the achievement of the desired
outcome using an appropriate reacve gas, and it is a dry process as well. Avoiding chemical waste is the
key aracon of plasma in industrial operaons. Saving vast amounts of water, chemicals and electricity is
another benet [61]. The plasma is an incompletely ionized gas, and is oen referred to as the fourth state
of maer. Upon the exposure of a substance to the plasma, a number of plasma parcles (neutrals, radi-
cals, ions, and electrons), as well as UV photons reaching the surface with various energies’ distribuon,
bombard the surface. A number of these acve species are energec enough to detach chemical bonds and
prompt bre surface reacons [62]. The RF and Corona’s low-pressure treatments resulted in an improve-
ment in denim lightness, implying eliminaon of indigo dye from the fabric surface. To achieve a worn look
for indigo-dyed denim fabric, corona treatments and low-pressure plasma may serve as a viable alternave
to the tradional bio-stoning. However, further research is required in order to prevent harsh fabric handle
emergence and the upsurge of yellowness [63].
Sustainability Issues of Digitally Printed Denim
On its sustainability journey, the texle industry is gradually inclining towards digitalizaon [64]. Digitally
printed denim uses a mechanism that can bring denim to a new level, by using texle inkjet prinng as an
arsc method [65]. Digital prinng can create precise image data, with the use of millions of colours in
innite mof format. Under this technology, it is possible to create visually convincing design specics that
mimic the real thing, like abrasion areas, whiskers, and yarn slubs [66]. Digi Denim is a completely ‘waterless’
kind of denim. Among the tradional washing processes are pre-treatments, enzyme washing, bleaching,
and neutralizing. Every step in this process requires a signicant amount of water. The digizaon of denim
industry contributes to sustainable pracces. Without any natural resource or material waste, digital design
can create countless pairs of jeans, thus lowering waste levels and the environmental impact. Digi Denim
provides a huge cost decrease and the overall lead me. It is a sustainable and cost-eecve opon as
opposed to the tradional denim nishing and colouring techniques [1].
SOFTWARE FOR MEASURING SUSTAINABILITY IN WASHING
The control of the cost of energy, chemicals, and water in the producon process is aimed at developing
an ethical, producve and environmentally friendly denim washing system. Through the evaluaon of the
current impacts, the dening intervenons and areas of change are easily recognizable, and can thus be
tracked for sustainability.
Environmental Impact Measuring (EIM) Software
EIM soware is used in the assessment of the environmental impact of nishing processes for garments
in categories such as: the use of water, the use of energy, the use of chemical products and health of the
workers. With regard to water, a low-impact process is dened by the EIM as consuming less than 35 litres
of water per garment. The EIM takes a product’s toxicology into consideraon. It penalizes the use of more

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KHAN MKR, JINTUN S. Sustainability Issues of Various Denim Washing Methods. TLR 0 (0) 2021 00-00.
chemicals for contaminants, regardless of the amount of the substance used. The environmental eect of
a complete nishing process can also be calculated by the EIM. The individual can clearly see the key cause
of the environmental hazards with this tool, giving them the requisite data to move towards a more envi-
ronmentally friendly process. The EIM also enables the consumer to compare various processes and deter-
mine their resulng outcomes in terms of sustainability issues [67].
Environmental Score (eScore) Software
VAV Technology developed the eScore Soware for denim manufacturing industries that calculate and
compare the quanes of chemical, electricity, and energy reference values, as consumed by the machines
based on the prescripons. It provides data on the lower and upper limits to protect the environmental
and human health, data on the system eort and ulizaon of ability. Based on each company’s water and
chemical consumpon, eScore Soware ranks the companies and categorizes their scores as follows: i) 0-33
Score: Environment-Friendly Producon, ii) 33-66 Score: Acceptable Producon, iii) 66-99 Score: Limit Value,
iv) 100 and more: Non-Environment-Friendly Producon [68].
CONCLUSION
Dierent kinds of mechanical or dry-washing processes and chemical or wet-washing processes create a
lucrave outlook for the denim washing system. Relang to sustainability concerns, the tradional washing
methods are linked to tremendous health and environmental risks. However, with new technologies and
approaches to denim washing, sustainable and aainable soluons are currently available, capable of
supporng the environment, the consumer and the company. Following the denim industries’ adopon
of new technologies in the manufacturing process, there has been a drasc decrease in the use of energy,
chemicals and water during the washing of denim fabrics. It is worth stang that these new technologies,
including waterjet, ozone, and laser technologies, have presented themselves as excellent opons for denim
washing regarding the expense, me, durability, consistency, and eciency. As a result, the denim industry
will soon experience dramac changes following the new developments. However, there is need for further
advancement in denim washing techniques to enhance sustainability of the industry.
Author Contribuons
Conceptualizaon – M.K.R.K.; methodology – S.J.; resources - M.K.R.K. and S.J.; wring-original dra prep-
araon – M.K.R.K. and S.J.; wring-review and eding – M.K.R.K. All authors have read and agreed to the
published version of the manuscript.
Funding
This research received no external funding.
Conicts of Interest
The authors declare no conict of interest.

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