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Which Meteorological and Climatological Information Is Requested for Better Surfing Experiences? A Survey-Based Analysis

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This paper extends the work of previous research by investigating surfing practices and surf-recreation companies from a behavioral perspective. The study’s main aim is to gain insights into the role of meteorological/climatological information in decision-making related to the surf-tourism activities market. This information was gathered employing an online survey that asked respondents about where they surf and how they check forecasts for surfing. Climate services (CS) are promoted to support the decision-making process to better prepare for and adapt to the risks and opportunities of climate variability and change. The current market for CS is still in its early stages. In this paper, we report the findings from our recent investigation into the actual and potential market for CS for the Iberian Peninsula surf-tourism sector. Based on surfers’ and surf companies’ demands, it was found that an improved surfing climate service (herein, SCS) will have clear implications in the management of these tourism areas and provide insights into whether surfing activities may be successful. At the same time, such services can help to manage adaptive actions in regard to the impacts of climate change in surfing areas.
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atmosphere
Article
Which Meteorological and Climatological Information Is
Requested for Better Surfing Experiences?
A Survey-Based Analysis
Anna BoquéCiurana * and Enric Aguilar


Citation: Boqué Ciurana, A.; Aguilar,
E. Which Meteorological and
Climatological Information Is
Requested for Better Surfing
Experiences? A Survey-Based
Analysis. Atmosphere 2021,12, 293.
https://doi.org/10.3390/
atmos12030293
Academic Editor: M. Belén Gómez
Martín
Received: 8 February 2021
Accepted: 20 February 2021
Published: 24 February 2021
Publisher’s Note: MDPI stays neutral
with regard to jurisdictional claims in
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iations.
Copyright: © 2021 by the authors.
Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.
This article is an open access article
distributed under the terms and
conditions of the Creative Commons
Attribution (CC BY) license (https://
creativecommons.org/licenses/by/
4.0/).
Centre for Climate Change, C3, Geography Department, Universitat Rovira i Virgili, 43480 Vila-seca, Spain;
enric.aguilar@urv.cat
*Correspondence: anna.boque@urv.cat
Abstract:
This paper extends the work of previous research by investigating surfing practices and
surf-recreation companies from a behavioral perspective. The study’s main aim is to gain insights into
the role of meteorological/climatological information in decision-making related to the surf-tourism
activities market. This information was gathered employing an online survey that asked respondents
about where they surf and how they check forecasts for surfing. Climate services (CS) are promoted
to support the decision-making process to better prepare for and adapt to the risks and opportunities
of climate variability and change. The current market for CS is still in its early stages. In this paper,
we report the findings from our recent investigation into the actual and potential market for CS
for the Iberian Peninsula surf-tourism sector. Based on surfers’ and surf companies’ demands, it
was found that an improved surfing climate service (herein, SCS) will have clear implications in
the management of these tourism areas and provide insights into whether surfing activities may be
successful. At the same time, such services can help to manage adaptive actions in regard to the
impacts of climate change in surfing areas.
Keywords: climate services; tourism; surfing; waves; adaptation; mitigation
1. Introduction
Climate services (herein, CS) are promoted to support decision-making process in
order to better prepare for and adapt to the risks and opportunities of climate variability
and change [
1
]. According to the World Meteorological Organization (WMO), the role of CS
in climate change mitigation and adaptation has been the subject of research, especially in
the four priority areas of focus for the Global Framework for Climate Services (GFCS) [
2
]: (i)
health [
3
,
4
]; (ii) agriculture [
5
8
]; and food security; (iii) water and energy; and (iv) disaster
risk reduction. Examples of CS for agriculture can be found in Mali and Senegal, among
other countries, where a new approach has been created to develop climate information
services. This approach uses historical climate records, participatory decision-making
tools, and forecasts to help farmers identify and better plan livelihood options suited to
local climate features and farmers’ varied circumstances [
9
]. In addition, several programs
addressing climate services for improving public health can be found in Brazil [
10
] and
Ethiopia [11].
Nevertheless, CS can also be developed for other sectors [
12
] such as tourism. For
this sector, climate is identified as a factor of location; every economic activity requires
a territorial base, and this applies to geographic spaces acting as supports for tourism
activities. The kind of terrain in the support area also influences where activities are
conducted. Climate is one of the geophysical elements that comprise geographic space [
13
],
and it also works as a tourism resource. In this respect, climate is a basic resource for various
activities that depend on the climate/weather, which can include sun and beach tourism,
winter sports such as skiing and snowboarding, health tourism, and water sports [
14
].
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293. https://doi.org/10.3390/atmos12030293 https://www.mdpi.com/journal/atmosphere
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 2 of 24
Aligned with this, it has been affirmed that local climatology and the succession of different
weather types influence the location of resorts, the calendar of tourism activities, the use
and efficiency of the infrastructure, and the return on investments. Indeed, many resorts
have prospered thanks to their ability to turn favorable local climatic conditions to their
advantage [1518].
The most widely applied approach for quantifying climatic resources is the Tourism
Climate Index (TCI). The TCI was developed by Mieczkowski [
19
] and was designed to
integrate the main climatic variables relevant to tourism into a single numerical index.
Other tourism climate indexes have also been developed, including the Daily Comfort
Index (CIA), the Daytime Comfort Index (CID), the Climate Index for Tourism (CIT), the
Holiday Climate Index (HCI) [
20
], the Beach Comfort Index (BCI) [
21
] and the Modified
Climate Index for Tourism (MCIT) [22].
Related to this, several studies have demonstrated the impact of climate on tourism
demand. The information provided by such research has made it possible to identify
optimal temperatures at travel destinations for different kinds of tourists and various
tourism activities [
23
]. Climate change and tourist comfort on Europe’s beaches during the
summer have also been analyzed. The main results found that destination managers in
Mediterranean tourism destinations should focus part of their attention on climate change
impacts such as potential sea level rise and water availability. Furthermore, they should
include environmental quality and diversification of activities in their deliberations. In
non-Mediterranean regions, a promising strategy may be to focus on short- and medium-
distance visitors who can take advantage of new opportunities for beach tourism and
explore the merits of seasonal climate forecasting [24].
Climate change can affect tourism. When considering the implications of an increase
of 2
C in global warming for European summer tourism, the main results showed that
climate change will positively affect Central and Northern Europe, thus increasing the
potential for further economic development in this direction. Mediterranean countries, by
contrast, stand to lose favorability as tourism destinations during the hot summer months
but will tend to gain favor during the early- and late-summer seasons [
25
]. Therefore,
improved climate services will become even more vital for travelers, the travel and tourism
industries, and destinations and will be required to adapt services and activities to meet the
challenges of climate change in an economically, socially, and environmentally sustainable
manner [22].
In regard to sun and beach tourism, beaches are the principal attraction. Quantitative
and qualitative assessments illustrate that most of the world’s sandy shorelines are in
retreat [
26
]. In this framework, it has been shown that coastal zones are particularly in
need of climate services for adaptation. This field of research has analyzed how annual to
multidecade sea level projections can be used within coastal climate services [27].
Climate and weather conditions for outdoor recreation construct the basis to identify
which activities are viable in certain territories and moments, and which are not [28].
Surf, snow, wind, and white-water provide natural resources for adventure tourism.
Both the resources themselves and their access for tourism are dependent on weather and,
hence, are affected by climate change [
29
]. As defined by different authors, surf tourism
involves travel and temporary stays undertaken by surfers with the primary expectation of
surfing waves [
30
,
31
]. Such travel includes at least one night away from the region of their
usual domicile. The growth of surfing activities and surf tourism has gained significant
attention in academia. The Surf Resource Sustainability Index (SRSI) was developed as
a conceptual model to study the sustainability of surf-tourism sites. It focuses on the
importance of social, economic, environmental, and governance factors in the conservation
process [
32
]. Referring to studies about wave climates and surfing,
Espejo et al. [33]
studied
the spatial and temporal variability of surfing resources around the world. Peñas del
Aro [
34
] identified the distribution of surfing days in Mallorca, and Boquéet al. [
35
]
defined the expected number of surfing days per year on the Iberian Peninsula.
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 3 of 24
Some research has identified behavioral market segments among surf tourists based
on past destination choice. One study was conducted through an online survey, and
the results show six market segments that take into consideration different ages, various
levels of surfing ability, length of stay, preferred wave type, and the regularity of under-
taking trips with the aim of surfing at the chosen destination [
36
]. Other studies have
examined the natural component of seasonality in relation to surf tourism, using survey
responses collected globally and analyzing how surfers report using forecasts to make
travel decisions. In addition, occupancy data is analyzed in relation to surf-forecast data
to empirically assess intraseasonal fluctuations. The results found that most international
travel is booked months in advance based on climatic factors [
37
]. Works focusing on
identifying surfers’ profiles have also been explored in the Mentawai Islands of the western
coast of Sumatra [38].
The need to understand how surf tourism works is aligned with the need for surf-
break preservation. Indeed, Reiblich, who researches legal and policy implications of
coastal adaptation, has stated that surfbreaks include three components: the submerged
lands under the wave zone; a wave corridor that allows an unimpeded right of way
for swells to reach the wave zone; and beach access. In this sense, sufficient surfbreak
protection requires that policymakers employ a strategy that takes all three components
into
consideration [39,40]
. In some surf spots such as the Bahía de Todos Santos World
Surfing Reserve, surfbreak preservation has been applied. In addition, some studies in
Peru, Chile, and the US have focused on the link between surfing and marine conservation,
thus highlighting representative surfbreaks and the need for their protection not only for
their value to surfers but also for the ecosystem services they provide, as well as other
benefits for marine conservation [40].
In the field of CS for surfing, studies about the efficient delivery of forecasting to a
nautical sports mobile application (hereafter, app) with semantic data services have demon-
strated that weather and sea-related forecasts provide crucial insights for the practice
of nautical sports such as wave surfing and kite surfing. Moreover, mobile devices are
appropriate interfaces for the visualization of meteorology and operational oceanography
data [
41
]. Scott et al. [
22
] found that private-sector climate service providers have been inno-
vators in the use of emerging communication technologies designed to deliver specialized
climate information to tourists and other tourism-sector end-users. Several examples can be
found on weather applications tailored to specific tourism-related activities such as skiing,
surfing (e.g., the Oakley Surf Report) and fishing. Meanwhile, several items have been de-
signed to track surfing sessions and to register different variables.
Pontes Caselli et al. [42]
developed a systematic proposal for UX-centered mobile apps for tracking performance in
sports through an app in recreational surfing. Another case of a technological design for
surfing is the creation of Smart Fin, which records temperatures and GPS for surf science.
In addition to the creation of this technology, a survey was designed to identify groups
within the surfing community that would surf for science [43].
A range of communication channels exists for the delivery of climate information to
tourists and the tourism sector. Successful attempts have been made to provide under-
standable, familiar, and consistent international meteorological information that can be
used by tourists, but how climate information is communicated to tourists and tourism
subsectors remains largely unexplored [22].
As stated, while several studies about surfing forecast apps and surfbreak preservation
are available in the literature [
44
], we are not aware of any study that has designed a
surfing-climate service (hereafter, SCS). As previously discussed, the relationship between
climate, weather, and tourism must be understood so that tourism planning can be more
effective. In this regard, CS can be a tool for achieving effective surf-tourism planning.
For this reason, this paper strongly focuses on the design of an SCS tailored for surfers
and other surf tourism-sector end-users on a regional scale, specifically, in the Iberian
Peninsula framework.
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 4 of 24
The creation of CS for surf tourism is still in an early and premature stage of devel-
opment. For this reason, the present study aims to establish the basis of the SCS design,
specifically by understanding which meteorological and climatological information is re-
quested for a better surfing experience. In this research, we pursue the following objectives:
(1) to explore and define what meteorological and climatological information is used nowa-
days; (2) to discover which meteorological and climatological information can be improved
for a better surfing experience; (3) to understand what environmental problems negatively
affect surf activities; and (4) to understand surfing tourism flows on the Iberian Peninsula.
2. Data and Methods
2.1. Survey Description and Target Audience
This research created an online survey with the aim of better understanding how a
surfing-climate service (SCS) should be designed for surfers and other surf-tourism sector
end-users for surfing on the coast of the Iberian Peninsula. In this regard, the study area
covers the coast of the Iberian Peninsula, located in the southwest corner of the European
continent. The countries that comprise the peninsula are Spain, Portugal, France, Andorra,
and the United Kingdom (Gibraltar). The target population corresponds to surfers older
than 16 years of age who have surfed somewhere on the Iberian Peninsula.
Currently, there is no identified number of how many people actually engage in
surfing activities; as Esparza [
45
] presented, this is because many surfers are not registered
in any federation, and in some cases, surfers practice this sport only sporadically, making it
difficult to identify them as tourists. For the purposes of this study, we will identify surf
tourism using two criteria: (1) surfers stay at a location for at least one night that differs
from their usual place of residence in order to surf, and (2) the travel is conducted by active
surfers, meaning experts and other practitioners of the sports as well as beginners who
travel with the main purpose of surfing. For this reason, the target population is considered
infinite for calculating the sample (Equation (1)). We have obtained 470 samples; as there
are no previous studies of prevalence in this field, values of probability are considered the
same: p(0.5) and q(0.5). We establish z= 95% through Equation (1) to calculate the value
of d(4.52%).
d=qz2pq
ns
d=maximum allowable error
z=level of confidence
p=probability of success
q=probability of failure
ns=sample number
(1)
First, a pilot survey was launched [
46
] on SCS; then, the study survey was revised and
redesigned according to the answers and feedback from the pilot survey.
Secondly, to achieve the sample, surveys were distributed to surfers via social net-
works, i.e., Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook, and a surfing radio program. For this reason,
results may be biased, and previous parameters should be taken as approximate values.
The survey distribution was conducted from 19/05/2020 to 17/10/2020. It included 34
questions in different formats: open-ended, closed-ended, rating, and multiple choice
(Table 1). The text for the survey can be found in the Appendix B.
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 5 of 24
Table 1. Format of survey questions and topic of interest.
Question Number Format of Survey
Question Topic of Interest
0 Filter Ever surfed on the Iberian Peninsula
1 Closed-ended Demographic information
2, 3, 4 Open-ended Demographic information
5, 16 Closed-ended Behavior information
6 Open-ended Surfer profile
7, 8, 9 Closed-ended Surfer profile
10 Open-ended Local surf spot
11 Multiple choice Environmental changes
12 Open-ended Environmental changes
13 Closed-ended Surfing tourism mobility behavior
14 Open-ended Surfing tourism mobility behavior
15, 19, 21, 25 Multiple choice
Request for
meteorological/climatological
information
17 Rating
Request for
meteorological/climatological
information
18, 22, 24 Closed-ended
Request for
meteorological/climatological
information
20, 23 Open-ended
Request for
meteorological/climatological
information
26 Open-ended
The perceptions of meteorological and
climatological information use by
entrepreneurs, managers or workers at
surf schools or similar
27 Multiple-choice
The perceptions of meteorological and
climatological information use by
entrepreneurs, managers or workers at
surf schools or similar
28, 29, 30, 31, 32 Closed-ended
The perceptions of meteorological and
climatological information use by
entrepreneurs, managers or workers at
surf schools or similar
33, 34 Open-ended Other comments
2.2. Survey Analysis
The survey analysis allowed the identification of different facets that will contribute to
the design of the SCS. These aims are (1) the identification of preferred sea information to
assess decision-making before surfing; (2) the identification of future needs for surf-forecast
delivery; (3) to understand surfers’ perceptions of the environmental problem; and (4) to
understand surfing tourism locations on the Iberian Peninsula. Each facet is related to the
specific topic. Using all the information gathered, it is possible to design an SCS prototype
(Figure 1).
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 6 of 24
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 6 of 26
Figure 1. Procedure for designing a prototype of a Surfing Climate Service.
3. Results
The following subsections present the results of the SCS survey and a discussion of
the SCS prototype design.
They include: (3.1) preferred sea-state -surfing conditions—information to assess de-
cision-making before surfing; (3.2) future needs for surf-forecast delivery; (3.3) environ-
mental problem perception; (3.4) usual surf spots and surf tourism on the Iberian Penin-
sula; and (3.5) an SCS App Prototype.
In our survey, the male gender represents 75.11% and female 24.89%; the main nationali-
ties are Spanish (66.52%), and Portuguese (17.29%) followed by others (16.19%). Ages are
distributed in different intervals: (16–25) 26%; (25–35) 38.90%; (35–45) 24.95%; (45–55),
8.46%, and above 55 years, 1.69% of the respondents.
3.1. Preferred Sea-State Information to Assess Decision-making before Surfing
Before going surfing, 84.47% of surfers always seek information, 15.53% sometimes
seek information, and 0.00% never seek information. Surfers identify two sources of wave
prediction: forecasts and nowcasts. The use of forecasts represents most cases; then, now-
casts are used to verify a previously checked forecast. Therefore, nowcasting works as a
source of swell confirmation. Thanks to the results of the survey, it is possible to know
which kind of wave prediction surfers prefer and use most frequently (Figure 2). In this
sense, a ranking about the information consulted before surfing is presented (in which 1
is the lowest and 5 is the highest value, meaning 5 represents more accurate information).
This ranking shows seven different categories (Y axis) in which different sources of sea-
state information can be identified (primary sources forecasts, nowcasts, and secondary
sources). As shown, the most preferred sources are internet sites with forecasts (3.98 stars),
webcam access (3.71 stars), and information from friends/family (3.54 stars). These are
followed by information from buoys in real-time (3.30) and isobaric maps (3.03). The least-
preferred source of information is the from surf school/coach (2.59) and social networking
sites (2.57). This fact shows that sea-state information quality may be better from the surf-
ers’ perspectives, so no evaluations are close to 5.
Designing SCS
Preferred sea state information to assess
decision-making before surfing (3.1)
Checked variables
Channels and formats
Other request information
Value of the information
Future needs for surf-forecast delivery (3.2)
Requests variables
Channels and formats
Desired information
Business income VS wave availability
Need for a seasonal forecast?
Environmental problem perception (3.3)
Identification of the problems
Identification of the causes
Identification of the consequences
Surfing tourism on the Iberian Peninsula
(3.4)
Usual surf spots
Travel surf spots
SCS App Prototype (3.5) For surfers
For private surf business
Figure 1. Procedure for designing a prototype of a Surfing Climate Service.
3. Results
The following subsections present the results of the SCS survey and a discussion of
the SCS prototype design.
They include: (Section 3.1) preferred sea-state -surfing conditions—information to
assess decision-making before surfing; (Section 3.2) future needs for surf-forecast delivery;
(Section 3.3) environmental problem perception; (Section 3.4) usual surf spots and surf
tourism on the Iberian Peninsula; and (Section 3.5) an SCS App Prototype.
In our survey, the male gender represents 75.11% and female 24.89%; the main nation-
alities are Spanish (66.52%), and Portuguese (17.29%) followed by others (16.19%). Ages
are distributed in different intervals: (16–25) 26%; (25–35) 38.90%; (35–45) 24.95%; (45–55),
8.46%, and above 55 years, 1.69% of the respondents. Summary of Survey Responses can
be found in Appendix B.
3.1. Preferred Sea-State Information to Assess Decision-Making before Surfing
Before going surfing, 84.47% of surfers always seek information, 15.53% sometimes
seek information, and 0.00% never seek information. Surfers identify two sources of
wave prediction: forecasts and nowcasts. The use of forecasts represents most cases; then,
nowcasts are used to verify a previously checked forecast. Therefore, nowcasting works as
a source of swell confirmation. Thanks to the results of the survey, it is possible to know
which kind of wave prediction surfers prefer and use most frequently (Figure 2). In this
sense, a ranking about the information consulted before surfing is presented (in which 1 is
the lowest and 5 is the highest value, meaning 5 represents more accurate information).
This ranking shows seven different categories (Yaxis) in which different sources of sea-state
information can be identified (primary sources forecasts, nowcasts, and secondary sources).
As shown, the most preferred sources are internet sites with forecasts (3.98 stars), webcam
access (3.71 stars), and information from friends/family (3.54 stars). These are followed by
information from buoys in real-time (3.30) and isobaric maps (3.03). The least-preferred
source of information is the from surf school/coach (2.59) and social networking sites
(2.57). This fact shows that sea-state information quality may be better from the surfers’
perspectives, so no evaluations are close to 5.
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 7 of 24
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 7 of 26
Figure 2. Ranking of sea-state information consulted before surfing.
To plan quality surfing sessions, every surfer needs to be familiar with the ever-
changing state of the ocean. It is known that surfers consult a great variety of sources to
anticipate wave conditions in various surf spots. The sources can be found on different
forms of communication including websites and applications for mobile devices or both.
Table 2 presents actual surf-forecast delivery on websites and apps, which represent the
combination of the most frequently consulted channels. The range of forecasting for most
of these services is 10 days as the maximum; for longer-term forecasts, surfers must pur-
chase a premium version or a forecast app still in beta version such in Todosurf. All the
apps and websites are focused mainly on forecasting the following variables: wave height,
wave period, wind speed, wind direction, and differentiation between primary swell and
other swells. Depending on the source, other complementary variables may also be re-
ported, such as surf-quality rating, wave energy, and tidal schedules among others. The
prediction models differ depending on resources; some allow making comparisons with
different prediction models and others do not. Among these resources, there are some
specifically designed to address surfers’ requirements, including Todosurf, Wisuki, Mag-
icseaweed, MedSwells, and Surfline. Others are specifically designed for windsurfing and
include Windfinder and Windguru; they may also report some information useful for
surfers that, in some cases, may not be shown in other resources. There is also Windy,
which is not specifically designed for sports-related predictions but offers information
relevant to surfing predictions.
Other resources can be found only on website channels. Table 3 shows that, in general
terms, the range of prediction is shorter than for the resources described in Table 2. In the
table below, nowcasting is present, and the most common prediction range is between
three and seven days. The information for SurfMediterraneo presents a wider range. The
main variables forecasted are similar to those previously presented. In this kind of re-
source, there are also maritime forecasts designed by local meteorological services, such
as those from MeteoGalicia and Aemet. It is interesting to highlight the Camaramar web-
site, which not only provides sea-state forecasts but also offers active tourism information.
Other resources are available only through the app channel (Table 4); this is the case
for Imar and Line App. The first one provides information from Puertos del Estado but is
not specifically designed for surfing. However, it offers interesting variables for surfers,
and it is possible to search conditions by their list of beaches in Spain and then consult the
“nowcast and forecast up to three daysfor specific maritime and weather variables. Con-
versely, Lineapp is designed for surfing with an innovative design that allows not only
Figure 2. Ranking of sea-state information consulted before surfing.
To plan quality surfing sessions, every surfer needs to be familiar with the ever-
changing state of the ocean. It is known that surfers consult a great variety of sources to
anticipate wave conditions in various surf spots. The sources can be found on different
forms of communication including websites and applications for mobile devices or both.
Table 2presents actual surf-forecast delivery on websites and apps, which represent the
combination of the most frequently consulted channels. The range of forecasting for most of
these services is 10 days as the maximum; for longer-term forecasts, surfers must purchase
a premium version or a forecast app still in beta version such in Todosurf. All the apps and
websites are focused mainly on forecasting the following variables: wave height, wave
period, wind speed, wind direction, and differentiation between primary swell and other
swells. Depending on the source, other complementary variables may also be reported,
such as surf-quality rating, wave energy, and tidal schedules among others. The prediction
models differ depending on resources; some allow making comparisons with different
prediction models and others do not. Among these resources, there are some specifically
designed to address surfers’ requirements, including Todosurf, Wisuki, Magicseaweed,
MedSwells, and Surfline. Others are specifically designed for windsurfing and include
Windfinder and Windguru; they may also report some information useful for surfers
that, in some cases, may not be shown in other resources. There is also Windy, which is
not specifically designed for sports-related predictions but offers information relevant to
surfing predictions.
Other resources can be found only on website channels. Table 3shows that, in general
terms, the range of prediction is shorter than for the resources described in Table 2. In the
table below, nowcasting is present, and the most common prediction range is between
three and seven days. The information for SurfMediterraneo presents a wider range. The
main variables forecasted are similar to those previously presented. In this kind of resource,
there are also maritime forecasts designed by local meteorological services, such as those
from MeteoGalicia and Aemet. It is interesting to highlight the Camaramar website, which
not only provides sea-state forecasts but also offers active tourism information.
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 8 of 24
Table 2. Websites and app channels for sea-state information for surfing.
Name of The
Resource Prediction Model Time of Prediction Variables Comments
Todosurf Nonspecified 7 days, 14 days
(new)
Wave height, wave direction, wave
period, energy, wind intensity,
wind direction.
Summary of wind waves, swell 1,
swell 2 with the following variables:
wave height, wave period, and
wave direction.
Quality rating.
In the same app/website
buoy’s data, wind map, and
waves map are present from
Puertos del Estado.
The site allows configuring
alarms for the favorite
surf-spots.
Wisuki Nonspecified 7 days Wind (direction, average, gust), waves
(direction, height, period), and tides.
This app is very visual and
interactive with satellite
images joined with graphs. In
the same app/website weather
information is shown.
Magicseaweed NOA WAVEWATCH III,
PROTEUS GLOBAL
7 days,
16 days (pro)
Surf height, wind gusts, wave
direction, wind intensity and
direction, tides.
Quality rating.
Information about primary and
secondary swell can be shown.
In the same app/website
weather information is shown.
Webcam access with the
pro version.
It is possible to consult the sea
stat historic of the spots.
Windy ECMWF WAM,
Wavewatch 3 10 days
Wind direction, wind average, wind
gust, wave height (primary and
secondary swell), wave period.
General weather app where
there is a specific section for
surfing activity.
Windguru
GFS 13, AROME 1.3,
AROME 2.5,
Zephr-HD3, Zephr-HD4,
WRF 9, ICON 7,
HIRLAM 7.5, Zephr-HD
9, WRF 27, ICON 13,
GDPS 15
10 days
Wind speed, wind gust, wind direction,
temperature, cloudiness, tides.
Quality rating (in this case is
for windsurfing).
There is a pro version that
allows access to more maps
and models which helps to
have a more accurate
wind prediction.
Windfinder
GFS and Superforecast
(This mixes GFS +
horizontal information)
7 days
Wind direction, wind speed, wind gust,
cloudiness, kind of precipitation, air
temperature, sea level pressure, wave
direction, wave height, and
wave period.
Wind chill, relative humidity
(in Superforecast)
The site also provides
statistical historic of
some variables.
The site presents some
surf-spot webcams.
Medswells From FNMOC wave
watch 3 model 3 days
Isobaric and surge maps-
Wave height, wave direction, and
wave period.
It also presents variables from wind
swell and sea swell and quality rating.
The site also allows surf-spot
webcams access and configure
alarms for the favorite
surf-spots.
Surfline LOLA 2 days,
17 days premium
Wave height, direction, and period
(primary, secondary and tertiary swell).
Wind direction and intensity. Tide
hours and weather conditions.
The site also allows access to a
global navigator where there
are regional waves, local
waves, buoys observations,
and Surfline charts around
the world.
The site also informs about
specific surf conditions.
Other resources are available only through the app channel (Table 4); this is the case
for Imar and Line App. The first one provides information from Puertos del Estado but is
not specifically designed for surfing. However, it offers interesting variables for surfers,
and it is possible to search conditions by their list of beaches in Spain and then consult
the “nowcast and forecast up to three days” for specific maritime and weather variables.
Conversely, Lineapp is designed for surfing with an innovative design that allows not only
searching sea-state information but also offers an opportunity to create a community with
local surfers, surf travelers, and surf schools.
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 9 of 24
Table 3. Website channels for consulting sea-state information for surfing.
Name of the
Resource Prediction Model Time of Prediction Variables Comments
Surf forecast Nonspecified 7 days
Significant wave height map.
Wave height, wave direction, wave
period, energy, wind direction,
wind intensity, wind state,
and tides.
Quality rating.
Wave height is in the open sea.
In the same app/website
information about weather,
advanced surf, local
wavefinder, and global
wavefinder are shown.
Puertos del estado
Wind modelized from
Hamnnie-Arome, then
wave data is modelized
by WAM
3 days and nowcast
Wind speed, wind direction, wave
height, wave period, water
temperature, atmospheric pressure,
salinity level.
It is possible to consult
historic data.
Surfmediterraneo
Aemet, Meteocat,
FNMOC, UOA
Mediterranean, DICCA,
laMMA, GFS, MetOffice
7 days, 9 days
(isobaric maps),
16 days
(wind maps)
There is a link to the table of
Puertos del Estado: wind speed,
wind direction, wave height, wave
direction, wave period. Secondary
and primary swell variables.
Webcams.
This website collects different
cartography about the forecast
of different Meteo services for
different variables.
Surfcantabria.com
See Windy information
See Windguru
information
See Windy
information
See Windguru
information
This website collects Windguru
forecast and Windy forecast in a
visual way.
The website collects links to
other sources of forecast
(Magicseaweed, storm surf,
aemet . . . ) with link to
surf-spot webcams.
Camaramar Not applicable.
Nowcast Nowcast
Specification of surf-spot
localization, better wind, better
season, and surf-spot orientation
This website provides a
webcam for different
surf-spots as well it links to
active tourism offers
Fnmoc From FNMOC wave
watch 3 model 3 days
Significant wave height and
direction, swell wave height and
direction, wind wave height and
direction, swell wave period and
direction, wind wave period and
direction, peak wave period and
direction, white cap probability.
Maps of prediction.
Meteogal Nonspecified 3 days
Tide time, sky state, wind direction
and intensity, sea state, visibility,
wave height direction and height,
air temperature, water
temperature, and maximum
UV index.
In MeteoGalicia there is a
maritime prediction section.
SurfCatalunya From FNMOC wave
watch 3 model 3 days See Medswells variables.
The website also presents
some surf-spot webcams.
The forecast section uses
Medswells information.
Aemet Nonspecified 5 days
Map of wind sea and wave sea
including wave direction
and height.
In Aemet there is a coast
maritime prediction section.
The main channels of communication (arranged by use) are apps or websites; in a
small number of cases, TV weather forecasts are also used.
Referring to the time in advance that a forecast is checked, it has been found that
surfers consult the information one day in advance (67.66%), two to three days in advance
(67.23%), and on the same day (66.38%). They also check it 4–7 days in advance (45.53%).
Further forecasts are less often consulted; specifically, 6.60% consult information two
weeks in advance, 0.85% one month in advance, 0.21% one year in advance. Conversely,
predictions three months in advance are not consulted. All participants checked the
forecast somewhere.
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 10 of 24
Table 4. App channels to consult sea-state information for surfing.
Name of The
Resource Prediction Model Time of Prediction Variables Comments
Lineapp Nonspecified 7 days
Wave height, direction,
and period. Wind
intensity and direction.
Air temperature and
cloudiness.
Quality rating.
The app includes surf alerts,
social and news feed. The app
helps to better communication
between surfers and surf schools.
The app also includes tailored
information regarding your
profile—surfer or surf school.
The app also informs users about
spot details—kind of spot,
bottom type, best swell, best
wind, wave type, and spot level.
Imar
Aemet (wind),
Puertos del Estado
(other variables)
3 days and nowcast
Wave height, wave
direction, wave period,
sea level. Wind
direction wind intensity.
There are the same
variables available in
real-time.
Weather alert.
The main information of sea
state from Puertos del Estado in
one practical app.
The main parameters checked in the surfing forecast—multiple choice option in the
survey-(Figure 3) are wave height (91.91%), wave period (89.79%), wind direction (85,74%),
wind intensity (79.36%), and energy (51.28%). Other parameters represent 13.19% and
include information such as swell direction (primary and secondary swell direction), water
temperature, wave formation, tide schedule, and meteorological maps to see where low
pressure and high pressure are originating from and their trajectory. Atmospheric pressure
is consulted in 11.70% of cases, and 0.00% do not consult a forecast.
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 12 of 26
Figure 3. Ranking of variables about sea-state information consulted before surfing.
The results show a wide variety of resources that help surfers to assess their decisions
when planning a surfing trip (Figure 4). Blue dots represent the percentage of surfers that
consult specific variables. From this diversity, we can define the following types: designed
for surfers, designed for windsurfers, ocean/sea sensors, and weather services. The
sources designed for surfers report all the necessary information tailored for specific
surfer needs. The sources designed for windsurfers give them better knowledge about
wind forecasts than the sources designed specifically for surfers. This is because the main
resource needed for windsurfing is wind, and for surfing it is waves. Nevertheless, both
variables are relevant for both sports. The sources designed for surfers and windsurfers
act mainly as forecasts.
Next, weather services help surfers better understand the context in which their de-
sired meteorological variables are developed. Thanks to that source, surfers can under-
stand which generation systems are in action, where they are located, and where are they
going. Then, it is possible to interlink the generation systems (high and low pressures)
with the behavior of the required variables for surfing such as wave height, wave period,
wave direction, wind direction, and wind intensity. Finally, ocean/sea sensors work as
nowcast systems that help to validate all the previous information consulted. Depending
on the surfers profiles, they check all kinds of sources, several, or just one.
Figure 4. Websites and app channels for sea-state information for surfing.
3.2. Future Needs for Surf-Forecast Delivery
Figure 3. Ranking of variables about sea-state information consulted before surfing.
The results show a wide variety of resources that help surfers to assess their decisions
when planning a surfing trip (Figure 4). Blue dots represent the percentage of surfers
that consult specific variables. From this diversity, we can define the following types:
designed for surfers, designed for windsurfers, ocean/sea sensors, and weather services.
The sources designed for surfers report all the necessary information tailored for specific
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 11 of 24
surfer needs. The sources designed for windsurfers give them better knowledge about
wind forecasts than the sources designed specifically for surfers. This is because the main
resource needed for windsurfing is wind, and for surfing it is waves. Nevertheless, both
variables are relevant for both sports. The sources designed for surfers and windsurfers act
mainly as forecasts.
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 12 of 26
Figure 3. Ranking of variables about sea-state information consulted before surfing.
The results show a wide variety of resources that help surfers to assess their decisions
when planning a surfing trip (Figure 4). Blue dots represent the percentage of surfers that
consult specific variables. From this diversity, we can define the following types: designed
for surfers, designed for windsurfers, ocean/sea sensors, and weather services. The
sources designed for surfers report all the necessary information tailored for specific
surfer needs. The sources designed for windsurfers give them better knowledge about
wind forecasts than the sources designed specifically for surfers. This is because the main
resource needed for windsurfing is wind, and for surfing it is waves. Nevertheless, both
variables are relevant for both sports. The sources designed for surfers and windsurfers
act mainly as forecasts.
Next, weather services help surfers better understand the context in which their de-
sired meteorological variables are developed. Thanks to that source, surfers can under-
stand which generation systems are in action, where they are located, and where are they
going. Then, it is possible to interlink the generation systems (high and low pressures)
with the behavior of the required variables for surfing such as wave height, wave period,
wave direction, wind direction, and wind intensity. Finally, ocean/sea sensors work as
nowcast systems that help to validate all the previous information consulted. Depending
on the surfers profiles, they check all kinds of sources, several, or just one.
Figure 4. Websites and app channels for sea-state information for surfing.
3.2. Future Needs for Surf-Forecast Delivery
Figure 4. Websites and app channels for sea-state information for surfing.
Next, weather services help surfers better understand the context in which their de-
sired meteorological variables are developed. Thanks to that source, surfers can understand
which generation systems are in action, where they are located, and where are they going.
Then, it is possible to interlink the generation systems (high and low pressures) with the
behavior of the required variables for surfing such as wave height, wave period, wave
direction, wind direction, and wind intensity. Finally, ocean/sea sensors work as nowcast
systems that help to validate all the previous information consulted. Depending on the
surfers’ profiles, they check all kinds of sources, several, or just one.
3.2. Future Needs for Surf-Forecast Delivery
Previously, we have observed which resources currently exist that provide the required
sea-state and weather information for surfers. We have shown that there is a wide range
of information tailored and designed in different ways and presented through multiple
channels. We also know which variables surfers require more in their consulted forecasts
that will help them figure out how a surfing session will be. Next, it is necessary to present
the future needs of surf-forecast delivery for surfers and private surfing businesses. In
the following sections, we discuss what can and should be improved in actual forecasts
and what surfers’ perceptions are in regard to the need for seasonal forecasting related
to surfing.
3.2.1. Future Needs for Surf-Forecast Delivery for Surfers
The main results in regard to the future needs for surf-forecast delivery are structured
by four fundamental pillars (Figure 5): (1) perception about reality, (2) requirements,
(3) possible solutions, and (4) results.
Perceptions about reality from surfers identify that wave approximation from the
fetch area to the shore work differently depending on whether the fetch is generated in
the ocean or in the sea. This is the case for the Iberian Peninsula, where waves in northern
and western surf spots (Atlantic Ocean) have a lot of space to travel once they arrive at
the shore; in this case, the fetch can be monitored with more anticipation than the surfing
conditions on the eastern shore (Mediterranean Sea). On the eastern shore, the optimal
conditions for surfing are usually created by fetch generation originally located close to
the shore; then, there is less space and time to travel until the waves reach the shore, and
thus the requirements for prediction are quite different. Surfers affirm that each surf spot
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 12 of 24
is unique and that wave predictions for surfing can be improved. They also state that a
number of parameters influence wave availability.
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 14 of 26
Figure 5. Suggested improvements for surfing forecasts from surfers’ perspectives.
Surfers were asked if they would use seasonal forecasts. The results show that 57.66%
think that being able to check a seasonal forecast would be useful for them in planning
surfing trips; conversely, 20.43% do not think they would use a seasonal forecast. Other
surfers, 13.62%, do not know if this kind of forecast would be useful for them or not, and
8.09% have other opinions about this. The majority doubt the possibility of producing
worthwhile seasonal surfing forecasts.
The required channels for receiving seasonal forecasts for surfers are apps for
smartphones (64.47%), websites (45.11%), newsletters in mail accounts (9.15%), and SMS
(6.81%); others were not interested in seasonal forecasts or gave other answers (17.87%).
3.2.2. Future Needs for Surf-forecast Delivery for Private Surfing Businesses
In the case of surfing businesses, the preferred channels for receiving surfing fore-
casts for companies and surfing instructors are apps for smartphones (47.88%), websites
(33.33%), newsletters in mail accounts (7.88%), and SMS (5.45%); 1.82% were not inter-
ested in seasonal forecasts.
Private surfing businesses were asked about the value of seasonal surfing forecasts.
The results show that usability can be profitable for deciding where to locate the activity
(50%), for managing clients (48.05%), for managing employees (34.42%), and for managing
logistical permits (15.58%). Nevertheless, 15.58% would not use seasonal forecasts, and
4.55% gave other answers, such as being unsure whether they would use such forecasts
because they do not expect that they would be useful to them.
As stated in the methods section, an aim of the present study is to discover whether
surfing businesses’ incomes depend on wave availability (Figure 6). The results show that
56.34% of participants believe that the income of the company/department varies depend-
ing on the availability of waves. They identified two factors that can cause a decrease in
income: (1) periods with no waves and (2) periods with very large waves. However,
35.92% stated that income does not vary. The remaining 7.75% gave other answers, which
included the following: (1) tourists come to surf when they have holidays, regardless of
the wave quality; (2) income varies according to good or bad weather instead of according
to wave quality; (3) stand up paddle (SUP) schools do not require waves; and (4) there is
always some activity that tourists can practice or train for in the water.
In regard to those who do not believe that income varies depending on wave availa-
bility, their opinion is usually related to the fact that some companies are associated with
glamping resorts and that clients will also go surfing when they are on holiday. Some
stated that during the summer when the waves are not good for surfing, they actually
have increased income.
Currently, 61.11% of surfing companies on the Iberian Peninsula offer other water
activities besides surfing, and the remaining 38.89% offer only surfing as the company’s
Figure 5. Suggested improvements for surfing forecasts from surfers’ perspectives.
Therefore, different requirements are presented from the surfers’ perspectives: (R1)
there is a need for more precision and locally developed forecasts, and (R2) forecasts should
be customizable and easy to read and interpret. Surfers also emphasize the transversality of
information that they require; and thus, (R3) they would like to have additional information
in their SCS such as contamination state and sea-bank locations.
In this vein, surfers also identify possible solutions to address all these requirements.
Regarding R1, possible solutions could be: (S1–R1) to manage the historical register of
waves and corroborate surfing conditions through an app and establish patterns for specific
areas; (S2–R1) to install more buoys and webcams; (S3–R1) to add percentages regarding
the success of the forecasts; and (S4–R1) to consider local characteristics such as spot
orientation and orography. R2 can be addressed by the following solutions: (S1–R2)
specification of surfing viability according to kind of surfing and surfer’s skills level;
(S2–R2)
all in one app or website; (S3–R2) information that is refreshed more frequently;
and (S4-R2) didactic graphs and visual descriptions. R3 can be improved by: (S1–R3) the
inclusion of knowledge of local surfers and surfing experts; (S2–R3) information about
contamination in surf spots; and (S3–R3) inclusion of atmospheric pressure maps and
cartography. From surfers’ perspectives, if all these requirements are met, together they
will make it possible to have better surfing forecasts.
Surfers were asked if they would use seasonal forecasts. The results show that 57.66%
think that being able to check a seasonal forecast would be useful for them in planning
surfing trips; conversely, 20.43% do not think they would use a seasonal forecast. Other
surfers, 13.62%, do not know if this kind of forecast would be useful for them or not, and
8.09% have other opinions about this. The majority doubt the possibility of producing
worthwhile seasonal surfing forecasts.
The required channels for receiving seasonal forecasts for surfers are apps for smart-
phones (64.47%), websites (45.11%), newsletters in mail accounts (9.15%), and SMS (6.81%);
others were not interested in seasonal forecasts or gave other answers (17.87%).
3.2.2. Future Needs for Surf-Forecast Delivery for Private Surfing Businesses
In the case of surfing businesses, the preferred channels for receiving surfing forecasts
for companies and surfing instructors are apps for smartphones (47.88%), websites (33.33%),
newsletters in mail accounts (7.88%), and SMS (5.45%); 1.82% were not interested in
seasonal forecasts.
Private surfing businesses were asked about the value of seasonal surfing forecasts.
The results show that usability can be profitable for deciding where to locate the activity
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 13 of 24
(50%), for managing clients (48.05%), for managing employees (34.42%), and for managing
logistical permits (15.58%). Nevertheless, 15.58% would not use seasonal forecasts, and
4.55% gave other answers, such as being unsure whether they would use such forecasts
because they do not expect that they would be useful to them.
As stated in the methods section, an aim of the present study is to discover whether
surfing businesses’ incomes depend on wave availability (Figure 6). The results show
that 56.34% of participants believe that the income of the company/department varies
depending on the availability of waves. They identified two factors that can cause a
decrease in income: (1) periods with no waves and (2) periods with very large waves.
However, 35.92% stated that income does not vary. The remaining 7.75% gave other
answers, which included the following: (1) tourists come to surf when they have holidays,
regardless of the wave quality; (2) income varies according to good or bad weather instead
of according to wave quality; (3) stand up paddle (SUP) schools do not require waves; and
(4) there is always some activity that tourists can practice or train for in the water.
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 15 of 26
unique activity. However, 43.42% would diversify their offerings of water activities if they
had adequate information to assist good decision-making, and 25% would probably offer
other water activities. The remaining 31.58% would not diversify their offerings. Referring
to willingness to pay, 60.13% would not be willing to pay to receive seasonal forecasts;
32.28% might be willing to pay; and the remaining 7.59% would be willing to pay.
Figure 6. How SCS can help to regulate business income, according to surf schools.
To conclude, we can extract the following statements about the usability of seasonal
forecasting for surfing companies: (1) Companies see the potential of seasonal surfing
forecasts for managing clients, employees, the location for their activity and for managing
licenses and permits. (2) Companies identify the relationship between wave availability
and income. Nevertheless, other factors also influence income, and these include: (F1)
tourists’ holidays and (F2) good or bad weather. (3) Over half of companies, 61.11%, offer
water activities besides surfing, but they would like to receive customized information to
assist in decision making. Related to this, companies would be able to manage and plan
other water activities when surfing is not possible. (4) The main channels desired for re-
ceiving information are apps for smartphones and websites.
3.3. Environmental Problems that Harm the Surfing Experience
In previous sections, we have identified the types of meteorological and climatolog-
ical information surfers require for a better surfing experience. However, environmental
problems are also a factor that affects the quality of the surfing experience. In this sense,
surfers identify general environmental problems in surf spots (Figure 7), then they reveal
several actual examples of these problems in their usual surf spots.
Respondents could choose from among five different environmental impacts and
could identify and describe other nonenvironmental impacts affecting surfing (multiple
choice option). Referring to general environmental problems, the results show that ex-
treme erosion of beaches (48.51%), greater frequency of extreme weather events (40.21%),
and loss of some spots due to sea level rise (34.26%) are the main environmental impacts
that affect surfing from surfers’ perspectives. Some (27.66%) stated that changes in wave
direction are an environmental impact that affects surfing, and 21.70% mentioned other
kinds of environmental impacts. The appearance of new spots due to sea level rise is the
least of the environmental problems identified (16.17%), and 9.36% reported no environ-
mental impacts that affect their surfing.
The answers focusing on detecting other theoretical environmental problems can be
summarized as follows: (1) building harbors, dikes; (2) contamination; (3) massification;
(4) loss of flora and fauna; (5) changes in climatology (ocean currents, sea temperature);
(6) tourism; (7) and modifications of the sea floor and/or dune system.
Figure 6. How SCS can help to regulate business income, according to surf schools.
In regard to those who do not believe that income varies depending on wave avail-
ability, their opinion is usually related to the fact that some companies are associated with
glamping resorts and that clients will also go surfing when they are on holiday. Some
stated that during the summer when the waves are not good for surfing, they actually have
increased income.
Currently, 61.11% of surfing companies on the Iberian Peninsula offer other water
activities besides surfing, and the remaining 38.89% offer only surfing as the company’s
unique activity. However, 43.42% would diversify their offerings of water activities if they
had adequate information to assist good decision-making, and 25% would probably offer
other water activities. The remaining 31.58% would not diversify their offerings. Referring
to willingness to pay, 60.13% would not be willing to pay to receive seasonal forecasts;
32.28% might be willing to pay; and the remaining 7.59% would be willing to pay.
To conclude, we can extract the following statements about the usability of seasonal
forecasting for surfing companies: (1) Companies see the potential of seasonal surfing
forecasts for managing clients, employees, the location for their activity and for managing
licenses and permits. (2) Companies identify the relationship between wave availability
and income. Nevertheless, other factors also influence income, and these include: (F1)
tourists’ holidays and (F2) good or bad weather. (3) Over half of companies, 61.11%, offer
water activities besides surfing, but they would like to receive customized information
to assist in decision making. Related to this, companies would be able to manage and
plan other water activities when surfing is not possible. (4) The main channels desired for
receiving information are apps for smartphones and websites.
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 14 of 24
3.3. Environmental Problems That Harm the Surfing Experience
In previous sections, we have identified the types of meteorological and climatological
information surfers require for a better surfing experience. However, environmental
problems are also a factor that affects the quality of the surfing experience. In this sense,
surfers identify general environmental problems in surf spots (Figure 7), then they reveal
several actual examples of these problems in their usual surf spots.
Figure 7. Theoretical environmental problem perception from surfers’ points of view.
Respondents could choose from among five different environmental impacts and
could identify and describe other nonenvironmental impacts affecting surfing (multiple
choice option). Referring to general environmental problems, the results show that extreme
erosion of beaches (48.51%), greater frequency of extreme weather events (40.21%), and loss
of some spots due to sea level rise (34.26%) are the main environmental impacts that affect
surfing from surfers’ perspectives. Some (27.66%) stated that changes in wave direction
are an environmental impact that affects surfing, and 21.70% mentioned other kinds of
environmental impacts. The appearance of new spots due to sea level rise is the least of
the environmental problems identified (16.17%), and 9.36% reported no environmental
impacts that affect their surfing.
The answers focusing on detecting other theoretical environmental problems can be
summarized as follows: (1) building harbors, dikes; (2) contamination; (3) massification;
(4) loss
of flora and fauna; (5) changes in climatology (ocean currents, sea temperature);
(6) tourism; (7) and modifications of the sea floor and/or dune system.
Surfers identified multiple environmental changes to their usual surf spots (
Table 5
);
the majority of these are interconnected. Using the problem-tree process, a conceptual
model used as a diagnostic tool to analyze a sequence of events that eventually leads to a
problem [
47
], it is possible to identify the major facts/problems and their corresponding
causes and consequences. The main problems or factors in their usual surf spots highlighted
by surfers are as follows: (1) pollution; (2) overtourism; (3) beach erosion, sea level rise,
and dune system erosion; (4) changes in surfing availability; and (5) the presence of fewer
tourists. The presence of people in surf spots is reflected in their impacts on human and
natural systems. (1) Pollution in surf spots is fed by discharges from outfalls, inefficient
pollution systems, increased population in the tourism season in tourist areas, and chemical
pollution from factories. All these causes can be translated into human health problems as
well as negative impacts on biodiversity. For example, some specific pollution problems
are detected in Carcavelos for the presence of plastics and microplastics; and polyurethane
balls in La Pineda. (2) Overtourism is also an identified problem in some surf-destination
regions; this happens when a world surfing reserve is created to promote surfing—like
in Ericeira—but no environmental protection plan is executed. This situation produces
changes in water security as more people tend to increase pollution. In addition, sun and
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 15 of 24
beach tourism development sometimes involves the construction of artificial beaches that
modify genuine surf spots. (3) Beach erosion, sea level rise, and dune system erosion
are three major threats for surfing activities; these may result in changes in wave breaks’
characteristics and sea floor characteristics, and can result in the loss or appearance of surf
spots. All these changes are results of the construction of breakwaters and dikes, massive
construction on the coast, little sedimentary contribution, seasonal variability, and sand
drainage or other massive movements of sand. In this line, some examples of sea level-rise
impacts are detected in Salinas and Badalona. (4) Surfers also identified several changes
in surfing-wave availability, due mainly to changes in primary swell direction and wind
direction, and these facts can be translated into changes in the number of expected surfing
days. (5) Some surfers identified that, at the present time, there are fewer surfing tourists
due to the COVID-19 pandemic and its related travel and mobility restrictions. Thus, there
has been a reduction in business income related to this group of tourists. Nevertheless, this
situation is seen as an opportunity to gain greater water security, offer surfing activities to
local surfers or inhabitants, and, as a result, increase the well-being of the population.
Table 5. Environmental problems observed in usual surf spots from surfers’ perspectives.
FACT
PROBLEM
Pollution
Overtourism
Too many Tourists
in the Water
Beach Erosion, Sea
Level Rise, and Dune
System Erosion
Changes in
Surfing-Wave
Availability
Fewer Tourists
CAUSES
Discharges from
outfalls
Inefficient
management of
pollution systems
Increase in population
in tourism season
Chemical pollution
from factories
Increase in tourism
flows before
COVID-19 pandemic
Promotion of surf
destination with no
environmental
protection plan
Construction of
breakwaters and dikes
Massive construction on
the coast
Little sedimentary
contribution
Seasonal variability
Sand drainage/massive
sand movements
Changes in
primary swell
direction.
Changes in wind
patterns
COVID-19 pandemic:
restricted mobility
CONSEQUENCES
Human health
problems (gastritis,
otitis)
Affects the biodiversity
of surf spots
Changes in security
in the water
Increase in pollution
Construction of
artificial beaches for
sun and beach
tourism
Changes in wave breaks’
characteristics such as
shape and height
Sand beaches with
increasing presence of
rocks in relation to sand
Loss or appearance of
surf spots
Changes on sea floor
Changes in the
number of
expected surfing
days.
More security in the
water
Reduce local income
from tourists
New opportunities to
offer surfing activities
to local surfers
Increase well-being of
the population
Boost the local
economy
3.4. Usual Surf Spots and Surf Tourism on the Iberian Peninsula
A total of 40.90% of survey respondents affirmed that the place they chose to live was
selected because of the availability of surfing. This confirms that surf spots are popular not
only with tourists who surf but also local surfers. Figure 8shows the location of usual surf
spots (left) versus surf spots related to travel destinations (right).
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 16 of 24
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 18 of 26
the locations that offer more expected surfing days per year; then, this information is
translated into which areas surfers visit most frequently for the purpose of surf tourism.
Figure 8. Usual surf spots (left) versus travel surf spots (right) located on the Iberian Peninsula
3.5. Design of SCS Prototype
According to the results of the survey, surfers requested one channel where they
could access all the various pieces of information that they consult when making decisions
about where to surf. This survey, therefore, has identified a market opportunity for an
app-packaged climate service for surfers.
Figure 9 represents a mock-up layout of an SCS prototype identifying the climate
service marketplace [48]. Based on our results, this app, which, for convenience, we will
call Surf Better, should contain the following items: first, end-users have to register (users
will be asked to provide demographic information such as age, surfing skills, usual surf
spots, and whether they are employed by a surf school). After registering, users can search
specific surf spots and check for different items such as (1) forecasts, (2) real-time now-
casts, (3) users’ shared surfing experiences, (4) surf tourism, and (5) local information. In
this regard, specific items based on the forecast section include all the parameters men-
tioned in the previous section; in addition, forecasts will present the percentage of success
and a comparison between the different models of prediction.
The real-time section includes all information related to nowcasts, including
webcams and access to buoy data. Users can also post videos and/or photographs of their
surf spots by indicating time and location.
The section for sharing surfing experiences will work as a registry of surfing sessions.
Users should indicate day, time, surf-quality rating, pollution level, crowd level, and any
environmental problems they observe. All this information will remain registered and
will then be used as (a) a validation source for surfing forecasts and surf-wave climatology
and (b) a registry of environmental problem perception.
When surfers are planning to travel for surfing, they can check the main source to
assist their decision-making in regard to surf information about wave availability at the
site (67.02%) as well as information from friends and acquaintances (61.91%). Cartography
is also a source that helps surfers decide where to go on a surfing trip (38.72%). Con-
versely, the least-checked information is that provided by tourist offices/tourist brands
(7.45%). The surf-tourism section includes seasonal forecasts, and explanations for them
will be present with recommendations for surf schools in order to manage employees and
clients in terms of where to establish their business, and for surfers to decide where they
should go for surf tourism. This section will also include water tourism offers as infor-
mation for surfers.
In the end, the local information section provides the surfer with information about
the specific conditions needed for surfing that vary from surf spot to surf spot; these can
include swell direction, wind direction, bottom type, surfbreak type, recommended level
Figure 8. Usual surf spots (left) versus travel surf spots (right) located on the Iberian Peninsula.
We understand travel surf spots as places where surfers need to spend a minimum
of one night away from their usual place of residence, whereas local surf spots work
the other way. In relation to this, we can see that usual surf spots are distributed more
homogeneously all around the Iberian Peninsula compared to travel surf spots. In relation
to surf tourism, we can detect areas that are losers and others that are winners. The winners
are located around the northern and western shores. The losing areas are those located
around the eastern and southwestern shores.
Surfers stated that the information most frequently used when deciding where to
surf is wave availability. As Boquéet al. [
34
] have noted, the western and northern shores
are the locations that offer more expected surfing days per year; then, this information is
translated into which areas surfers visit most frequently for the purpose of surf tourism.
3.5. Design of SCS Prototype
According to the results of the survey, surfers requested one channel where they
could access all the various pieces of information that they consult when making decisions
about where to surf. This survey, therefore, has identified a market opportunity for an
app-packaged climate service for surfers.
Figure 9represents a mock-up layout of an SCS prototype identifying the climate
service marketplace [
48
]. Based on our results, this app, which, for convenience, we will
call Surf Better, should contain the following items: first, end-users have to register (users
will be asked to provide demographic information such as age, surfing skills, usual surf
spots, and whether they are employed by a surf school). After registering, users can search
specific surf spots and check for different items such as (1) forecasts, (2) real-time nowcasts,
(3) users’ shared surfing experiences, (4) surf tourism, and (5) local information. In this
regard, specific items based on the forecast section include all the parameters mentioned
in the previous section; in addition, forecasts will present the percentage of success and a
comparison between the different models of prediction.
The real-time section includes all information related to nowcasts, including webcams
and access to buoy data. Users can also post videos and/or photographs of their surf spots
by indicating time and location.
The section for sharing surfing experiences will work as a registry of surfing sessions.
Users should indicate day, time, surf-quality rating, pollution level, crowd level, and any
environmental problems they observe. All this information will remain registered and will
then be used as (a) a validation source for surfing forecasts and surf-wave climatology and
(b) a registry of environmental problem perception.
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 17 of 24
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 19 of 26
of surfing, and the best season for surfing at a particular location. This section can be en-
hanced by information contributed by app users.
Figure 9. SCS app prototype.
4. Discussion and Conclusions
The purpose of this paper was to determine the main characteristics required for in-
clusion in the development of a new prototype for an SCS tailored for surfing practitioners
and companies who offer surfing services.
The present research represents an advance in the knowledge about the requirements
needed for developing weather services targeted at surfing activities. This information
was obtained from the data extracted from the online survey. Following Buckley [49] and
Ponting [50], we identify surf tourism as occurring when surfers travel to enjoy this activ-
ity and spend at least one night away from their usual place of residence. In addition, we
consider information from surfers who do not spend one night or more away from their
place of residence. This is because, as Reineman et al. [51,52] presented, local surfers’
knowledge is relevant to understanding each surf-spots mechanism. The results of the
survey allow us to validate the knowledge of local surfers and its value. In this sense, the
results show that one of the requirements for a new SCS is to include location-specific
information contributed by local experienced surfers. This information can include—but
is not limited to—the type of tide that works better in the surf spot, the localization of
surfbreaks and main currents, the level of surfing at different surfbreaks, and the best
season of the year to surf at that location.
As shown in the results section, the analysis reveals that 84.47% of surfers always
consult sea-state information, 15.53% sometimes do, and 0% never do. This demonstrates
that sea-state information is a key element for planning, developing, and managing surf-
ing activities. This reality confirms the need for surfers to seek the right combination of
swell size, swell direction, wind strength, wind direction, tide, sand, and rock, as surfers
are always hunting the ephemeral wave [53].
In order to improve SCS, several factors that can provide new opportunities to de-
velop more-advanced SCS must be considered. These should be focused on: (1) develop-
Figure 9. SCS app prototype.
When surfers are planning to travel for surfing, they can check the main source to
assist their decision-making in regard to surf information about wave availability at the
site (67.02%) as well as information from friends and acquaintances (61.91%). Cartography
is also a source that helps surfers decide where to go on a surfing trip (38.72%). Conversely,
the least-checked information is that provided by tourist offices/tourist brands (7.45%).
The surf-tourism section includes seasonal forecasts, and explanations for them will be
present with recommendations for surf schools in order to manage employees and clients
in terms of where to establish their business, and for surfers to decide where they should
go for surf tourism. This section will also include water tourism offers as information
for surfers.
In the end, the local information section provides the surfer with information about
the specific conditions needed for surfing that vary from surf spot to surf spot; these can
include swell direction, wind direction, bottom type, surfbreak type, recommended level
of surfing, and the best season for surfing at a particular location. This section can be
enhanced by information contributed by app users.
4. Discussion and Conclusions
The purpose of this paper was to determine the main characteristics required for
inclusion in the development of a new prototype for an SCS tailored for surfing practitioners
and companies who offer surfing services.
The present research represents an advance in the knowledge about the requirements
needed for developing weather services targeted at surfing activities. This information
was obtained from the data extracted from the online survey. Following Buckley [
49
]
and Ponting [
50
], we identify surf tourism as occurring when surfers travel to enjoy this
activity and spend at least one night away from their usual place of residence. In addition,
we consider information from surfers who do not spend one night or more away from
their place of residence. This is because, as Reineman et al. [
51
,
52
] presented, local surfers’
knowledge is relevant to understanding each surf-spot’s mechanism. The results of the
survey allow us to validate the knowledge of local surfers and its value. In this sense, the
results show that one of the requirements for a new SCS is to include location-specific
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 18 of 24
information contributed by local experienced surfers. This information can include—but
is not limited to—the type of tide that works better in the surf spot, the localization of
surfbreaks and main currents, the level of surfing at different surfbreaks, and the best
season of the year to surf at that location.
As shown in the results section, the analysis reveals that 84.47% of surfers always
consult sea-state information, 15.53% sometimes do, and 0% never do. This demonstrates
that sea-state information is a key element for planning, developing, and managing surfing
activities. This reality confirms the need for surfers to seek the right combination of swell
size, swell direction, wind strength, wind direction, tide, sand, and rock, as surfers are
always hunting the ephemeral wave [53].
In order to improve SCS, several factors that can provide new opportunities to develop
more-advanced SCS must be considered. These should be focused on: (1) developing
greater accuracy and precision and locally developed forecasts; (2) designing a customizable
format that is easy to read and interpret for all levels of surfing; and (3) adding information
that is based on the knowledge of local surfers and surfing experts, as well as information
about pollution and atmospheric maps and cartography.
The present research provides information about the need to assist different surfing
user-communities, specifically surfers and companies that offer surfing activities. It has
also been shown that, when surfers decide to travel for surfing purposes, the information
used most often is that related to wave availability. The information used least often is
that provided by tourist offices/tourist brands. Regarding this certainty, further research
should focus on exploring whether this limitation is due to a lack of available information
from these organizations or due to poor communication between tourism boards and
surfers. In regard to this, we encourage the alliance of tourism boards, surf schools,
tourist-accommodation establishments, and surfers—both local and those who travel to go
surfing—in order to empower and better manage surfing destinations.
In a global tourism context, it is important to mention that some surfing apps—
like Magicseaweed—used in the Iberian Peninsula are also consulted abroad, such as in
Australia and Hawaii. This is because they are designed for a global coverage. Even so,
there are some more locally developed surfing apps, such as Medswells, which focuses its
predictions only on a specific area of the Mediterranean coast.
Future research might focus on developing a seasonal forecast for surfing activity, as
it has been shown that this kind of prediction does not currently exist. As stated by Todd
Cool [
54
], as with any forecast, the further out the prediction, the lower the tolerance for
accuracy. Nevertheless, a significant number of surfers reported that if they could access
such information, it might be useful for planning their surfing trips. Surfing companies
also report that they would take advantage of this kind of forecast; seasonal forecasting
would be useful to them for managing their clients, employees, and licenses. It would also
help them in their decision-making to know where to locate their business for the greatest
amount of activity and whether they should consider offering complementary activities
that do not require wave availability, for example, standup paddleboarding and kayaking.
In this sense, a short-term forecast is useful for surfers and companies; even so, it requires
some improvements. However, seasonal forecasts could play another role in managing
surfing activity in the medium term.
As noted by Groves et al. [
53
], surfers are aware of the negative impact of human
activity on marine environments. The present study affirms that surf spots present im-
portant environmental problems. In some cases, promoting surfing tourism can lead to
exacerbating those problems or creating new ones. For this reason and in regard to our
results, we propose adding to the SCS a register of observed environmental problems such
as CoastSnap [
55
] based on citizen science and creating community surf-spot monitoring.
In doing so, the service can present a historical data registry that looks at (1) surfing-session
registry evaluation and (2) environmental problem detection, and then processes this in-
formation to manage the surf spot. The outcomes of this monitoring would contribute
to implementing measures for protecting surf-spot environments and improving local
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 19 of 24
forecasts based on machine learning. This structure will help to feed the validity and
accuracy of the forecast and contribute to raise the credibility of it.
It is important to rethink the needs of surfers and surf companies. The requirements
of the two groups are quite different, with individual surfers wanting to know if it is worth
travelling to a location, and the companies being interested in expenditures and numbers
likely to be present. These differences may be considered when developing SCS.
Surfing tourism research is in its early stages [
56
]. Research has explored advances
in climate services in different sectors, including mainly the priority areas defined by
the Global Framework for Climate Services: agriculture and food security; disaster risk
reduction; and energy, health, and water. Some research focusing on CS has highlighted
other sectors such as tourism, but research in the field of surfing tourism that analyzes SCS
has not been conducted before now.
To conclude, we can affirm that our results clearly define the first steps in how an SCS
should be developed in the framework of surf spots on the Iberian Peninsula. When an
effective SCS has been developed, it will have clear implications for the management of
these tourism areas and will provide insights into whether surfing activities in these areas
may be successful. The survey model used for the research presented in this article can be
found online [57]: see Appendix A.
Author Contributions:
Conceptualization, A.B.C. and E.A.; Data curation, A.B.C. and E.A.; Formal
analysis, A.B.C. and E.A.; Funding acquisition, A.B.C. and E.A.; Investigation, A.B.C. and E.A.;
Methodology, A.B.C. and E.A.; Project administration, A.B.C. and E. A.; Resources, A.B.C. and E.A.;
Software, A.B.C. and E.A.; Supervision, A.B.C. and E.A.; Validation, A.B.C. and E.A.; Visualization,
A.B.C. and E. A.; Writing—original draft, A.B.C. and E.A.; Writing—review & editing, A.B.C. and
E.A. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.
Funding:
Research within INDECIS project (INDECIS is part of ERA4CS, an ERA-NET initiated
by JPI Climate and funded by FORMAS (SE), DLR (DE), BMWFW (AT), IFD (DK), MINECO (ES),
ANR (FR) with cofunding by the European Union Grant 690462). This article publication has been
possible with the support of the Secretaria d’Universitats i Recerca del Departament d’Empresa i
Coneixement de la Generalitat de Catalunya, the European Union (UE) and the European Social
Fund (ESF) (Doctoral Research Grant 2020FI_B00493—Formaciópersonal investigador novell).
Institutional Review Board Statement: Not applicable.
Informed Consent Statement: Not applicable.
Data Availability Statement: Not applicable.
Acknowledgments: We thank all participants of the survey for their insights’ contributions.
Conflicts of Interest:
The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or
personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper.
Appendix A. Survey Model
Survey model available online: https://forms.gle/yQrTeUARKaTaZy7z7.
Appendix B. Summary of Survey Responses
Table A1. Summary of Survey Responses.
0. Have you ever surfer on the Iberian Peninsula? Yes No
97.77% 2.23%
1. Gender
% Male % Female
75.11% 24.89%
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 20 of 24
Table A1. Cont.
2. Age [16–25) [25–35) [35–45) [45–55) >=55
26.00% 38.90% 24.95% 8.46% 1.69%
3. Nationality Spanish
Portuguese
Others
66.52% 17.29% 16.19%
4. Municipality of residence See Figure A1
5. Was the place you live chosen to be able to surf? Yes No NA
40.90% 59.10% 0.64%
6. Years of surfing <5 [5-10) [10,15) [15,20) >=20
20.85% 27.66% 14.47% 12.13% 24.89%
7. Board water sport practiced more frequently
Bodyboard Shortboard
Longboard Stand up
Paddle
11.49% 64.68% 17.66% 6.17%
8. Level of surfing Beginner
Intermediate
Advanced
5.74% 25.11% 69.15%
9. Do you dedicate yourself or have you dedicated yourself
professionally to surfing (competition, instructor, judge . . . )?
Yes No
39.15% 60.85%
10. Indicate your usual spots Section 3.4
See Figure A2
11. What do you think are the environmental impacts that affect surfing? (multiple choice) Section 3.3
12. Please list any changes you have observed in your usual spot (s) that harm or benefit the practice of
the sport. Indicate in which surf spot Section 3.3
13. Do you have to travel at a distance that involves you
spending a night away from home in order to surf surf?
Yes No
88.30% 11.70%
14. Indicate some of you travel spots that you would like to highlight (if possible, within the Iberian
Peninsula)
Section 3.4
See Figure A3
15. When do you travel (spend a minimum of 1 night away from home) do you consult the state of the
sea in a different way? (multiple choice) Section 3.1
16. Where do you surf most often? Home
Not home
88.30% 11.70%
17. Indicate what information you consult before going surfing and assess its quality (1 = very bad 5 =
very good) [Friends / family inform me] Section 3.1
18. Before going surfing, do you consult information to know the state of the sea? Section 3.1
19. How far long in advance do you check the forecast? (multiple choice) Section 3.1
20. What website or application do you consult to look at the prediction? Section 3.1
21. What parameters do you look at when checking at the wave forecasts? Section 3.1
22. Do you know what the significant height of the wave is? Yes No I have heard about it, but I don’t
know what it is
71.91% 13.19% 14.89%
23. What do you think could be improved from the surf forecasts? Section 3.2
24. If you had seasonal forecast * do you think it would be useful for you? * for example, if in the spring,
you had the information of the summer Section 3.2
25. In what format would you like to receive seasonal forecast information? (multiple choice) Section 3.2
26. Filter question
27. If you had seasonal information, would it be useful to you? (multiple choice) Section 3.2
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 21 of 24
Table A1. Cont.
28. In what format would you like to receive the information? Section 3.2
29. Does the income of the company/department vary depending on the availability of waves? Section 3.2
30. Does your company currently offer other water activities apart from surfing? Section 3.2
31. Would you be willing to pay to receive seasonal information? Section 3.2
32. Do you think you would diversify the offer of aquatic activities if you had adequate information on
the state of the sea? Section 3.2
33. Add comments that you think you can contribute extra information to the study:
34. If you want to stay informed of the results of the investigation you can write your email here
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 23 of 26
28. 29.2003;Does the income of the company / department vary
depending on the availability of waves? Section 3.2
29. 30.2003;Does your company currently offer other water activities
apart from surfing? Section 3.2
30. 31.2003;Would you be willing to pay to receive seasonal
information? Section 3.2
31. 32.2003;Do you think you would diversify the offer of aquatic
activities if you had adequate information on the state of the sea? Section 3.2
32. 33.2003;Add comments that you think you can contribute extra information to the
study:
33. 34.2003;If you want to stay informed of the results of the investigation you can
write your email here
Figure A1. Place of residence.
Figure A1. Place of residence.
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 23 of 26
28. 29.2003;Does the income of the company / department vary
depending on the availability of waves? Section 3.2
29. 30.2003;Does your company currently offer other water activities
apart from surfing? Section 3.2
30. 31.2003;Would you be willing to pay to receive seasonal
information? Section 3.2
31. 32.2003;Do you think you would diversify the offer of aquatic
activities if you had adequate information on the state of the sea? Section 3.2
32. 33.2003;Add comments that you think you can contribute extra information to the
study:
33. 34.2003;If you want to stay informed of the results of the investigation you can
write your email here
Figure A1. Place of residence.
Figure A2. Usual surf spots.
Atmosphere 2021,12, 293 22 of 24
Atmosphere 2021, 12, x FOR PEER REVIEW 24 of 26
Figure A2. Usual surf spots.
Figure A3. Travel surf spots.
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... En este momento, puede sostenerse que este panorama indica que los destinos turísticos donde se implementar actividades de turismo activo se caracterizan por tener una amplia y variada oferta de actividades y deportes, permitiendo la diversificación de sus actividades y huir de la estacionalidad en su oferta, o bien ser destinos altamente especializados en una actividad física o deporte (Ciurana & Aguilar, 2021;Martín-González, Swart, & Luque-Gil, 2021a), apostando por intensificar las visitas y engrandecer su prestigio frente a los turistas que demandan alguna actividad física o deporte concreto enmarcado en el modelo turístico de turismo activo. ...
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... In addition, extensive research from the domains of outdoor recreation and adventure tourism has shown that individuals are sensitive to a variety of environmental parameters while they engage in a (somewhat risky) activity (Martha et al. 2009;Haegeli et al. 2010;Kaminski et al. 2017;Groves et al. 2020;Boqué Ciurana et al. 2021;De Salvo et al. 2022;Siebert et al. 2022). In the beach safety literature, this was evident in a Kamstra et al. (2019) study on rock fishers in Australia. ...
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... In addition, extensive research from the domains of outdoor recreation and adventure tourism has shown that individuals are sensitive to a variety of environmental parameters while they engage in a (somewhat risky) activity (Martha et al. 2009;Haegeli et al. 2010;Kaminski et al. 2017;Groves et al. 2020;Boqué Ciurana et al. 2021;De Salvo et al. 2022;Siebert et al. 2022). In the beach safety literature, this was evident in a Kamstra et al. (2019) study on rock fishers in Australia. ...
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