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Shea Butter As Skin, Scalp and Hair Moisturiser in Nigerians

Wiley
Dermatologic Therapy
Authors:
LETTER
Shea butter as skin, scalp, and hair moisturizer in Nigerians
Dear Editor,
Various plant and seed extracts are utilized for skin care, cosmesis,
and alternative skin therapy. One of the most used in Nigeria and
many other countries in Sub-Saharan African is shea butter, a thick
yellowish butter produced from the nuts of the Shea tree (Vitellaria
paradoxa). Shea butter is a well-known multipurpose skin care item in
many African countries, and it is believed to have several skin mainte-
nance and healing properties. The taxonomic and physicochemical
properties of shea butter are documented in Table 1.
1,2
Shea butter has been shown to have both emollient and occlusive
properties which enables it to trap moisture in the epidermal layers of
the skin.
3,4
Shea butter was found superior to mineral oil in preventing
trans-epidermal water Loss (TEWL).
5
Shea butter was recommended
for repairing dry inflamed skin caused by dermatitis and as a nighttime
TABLE 1 Shea butter: taxonomic and physicochemical properties
Taxonomy of the African Shea Tree
Family; Genus Sapotaceae;Vitellaria.
Species Vitellaria paradoxa.
Subspecies V. paradoxa paradoxa and V. paradoxa
nilotica.
Former name/
Synonym
Butyrospermum parkii;B. paradoxum.
Regions found Semi and sub-humid savannas of sub-
saharan Africa.
Main producing
countries
Ghana, Senegal, Nigeria.
Local Names for
Shea butter
Karite (Senegal: Wolof), Ori (Nigeria: Yoruba),
Okwuma (Nigeria: Igbo), Kadanya (Nigeria:
Hausa), Nkuto (Ghana: Twi).
Biochemical composition
Fatty acids and
triglycerides
Oleic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, and
palmitic acid.
Phenolic
compounds
Garlic acid, catechin, epicatchin, gallate,
gallocatechin, quercetin, and trans-
cinnamic acid.
Tocopherols α,β,y,δtocopherol
Sterols α-spinasterol and Δ7-stigmasterol,
campesterol, and β-sitosterol.
Triterpenes Acetyl triterpenes and cinnamyl triterpenes
Unsaponifiable
fractions
αand βamyrine, butyrospermol, and lupeol.
Physicochemical properties
Acid value;
Saponification
value
3.825; 196.90
Refractive index 1.461
Total fat; moisture
content
75.3%; 1.37%
Melting point 36.57C
Density 0.927 g/ml
Iodine number;
peroxide value
43.27; 12.85
TABLE 2 Demographic details of survey participants
Parameter
Frequency (%) N-382
general public
Frequency (%) N-288
health professionals
Age range (years)
10-19 7 (1.8) 0 (0.0)
20-29 98 (25.7) 44 (19.3)
30-39 144 (37.7) 113 (49.6)
40-49 87 (22.8) 41 (18.0)
50-59 39 (10.2) 24 (10.5)
60 and above 7 (1.8) 6 (2.6)
Highest educational level
Secondary 11 (2.9) 0 (0.0)
Tertiary 207 (54.2) 75(26.1)
Postgraduate 162 (42.4) 213 (73.9)
Informal
professional
courses
2 (0.5) 0 (0.0)
Years of practice (health professionals)
1 year and
below
14 (6.1)
2-5 years 51 (22.4)
6-10 years 44 (19.3)
Over 10 years 119 (52.2)
Type of practice
Public 120 (52.6)
Private 28 (12.3)
Both public and
private
80 (35.1)
Medical specialty
Dermatologist 22 (9.6)
Other medical
specialties
187 (82)
Pharmacists
and nurses
19 (8.3)
Received: 30 September 2020 Revised: 4 January 2021 Accepted: 2 February 2021
DOI: 10.1111/dth.14863
Dermatologic Therapy. 2021;34:e14863. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/dth © 2021 Wiley Periodicals LLC. 1of3
https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.14863
moisturizer for the hands and feet.
6
It was also found effective as an
emollient in the management of atopic dermatitis and other inflamma-
tory dermatoses.
7
Active components of shea butter like triterpene
alcohols, cinnamic acid esters, retinols, and tocopherols are known to
be anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, absorb UV radiation, and slow the
skin aging process.
5-8
Stearic acid and oleic acid fractions of shea but-
ter are formulated into several moisturizing creams, cleansers, and
shampoos.
9
This review was done to assess and document the knowledge
and use of shea butter for skin, scalp, and hair moisturization by
Nigerians and as adjuvant skin treatment by healthcare personnel
including dermatologists.
A cross sectional survey using two questionnaires created on
Google forms and disseminated via What's App and e-mail in the
month September 2020 was carried out after obtaining ethical
approval (ADM/DCST/HREC/APP/3832). One questionnaire was
created for the public and the other for health personneldermatolo-
gists, general practitioners, other medical specialists, nurses, and phar-
macists. The data collected was analyzed using SPSS and documented
via frequency charts and tables.
Three hundred and eighty-two382 nonmedical and 228 medical
practitioners participated in the survey. Table 2 highlights the demo-
graphic details of survey participants and Tables 3 and 4 summarizes
their responses.
This survey documented widespread knowledge and use of shea
butter by the general populace (94%) and health care practitioners in
Nigeria (99.6%). Reasons for shea butter use given by the general pop-
ulace included its unprocessed nature, affordability, availability, and
nonirritant nature. The most common indications for use were pre-
vention and treatment of dry skin, as emollient, moisturizer and a base
for home-made skin care products, and remedies. Indications for scalp
and hair use included scalp or hair moisturization and softening of
the hair.
Majority of the health care practitioners (77.6%) who participated
in the survey used shea butter as an adjuvant treatment for several
skin conditions, most commonly xerosis, atopic dermatitis, infantile
seborrhoeic dermatitis, and other inflammatory dermatoses. Shea but-
ter has been reported to have some undesirable characteristics and
effects. In this survey, 44.9% of respondents indicated that the odor
of shea butter was unpleasant, 32.1% reported that its consistency
was too thick, 25.5% stickiness, 21% darkening of the skin, and 15.6%
excessive oiliness.
Shea butter is a popular and well-accepted skin moisturizer and
emollient in Nigeria. Many users andhealthworkersaffirmits
effectiveness in moisturizing the skin and as adjuvant therapy in
the management of inflammatory dermatoses (Figure 1). Further
TABLE 3 Common reasons for using shea butter on the skin,
scalp, and hair by respondents
Reasons for use of shea butter on the skin
Frequencies
(%)
To prevent dryness and scaling of the skin 178 (50.0)
Skin moisturizer 160 (44.9)
As oils and butters mixed with other products 133 (37.4)
Smoothening of the skin 126 (35.4)
Softening of the skin 102 (28.7)
Anti-inflammatory (to reduce redness) 93 (26.1)
Routine skin products 91 (25.6)
For baby care 89 (25.0)
To treat scars 81 (22.8)
To treat stretchmarks 74 (20.8)
To prevent wrinkling 72 (20.2)
Body massage butter 69 (19.4)
Dry lips 61 (17.1)
Part of homemade lotion 50 (14.0)
Strengthening of the skin 35 (9.8)
As sunscreen 19 (5.3)
Others (foundation for make up 3; homemade
deodorant 4; wounds, acne, skin soothing)
10 (2.6)
Indications for using shea butter on the scalp and hair
Hair softener (texturizer) 158 (45.9)
Scalp or hair moisturizer 138 (40.1)
Routine hair products 129 (37.5)
Hair growth 100 (29.1)
Prevent hair breakage 99 (28.8)
Hair conditioning 98 (28.5)
Hair strengthening 86 (25.0)
Prevent and treat hair loss 81 (23.5)
Remedy for itchy and flaky scalp 78 (22.7)
Others (psoriasis, infection, and dandruff) 3 (0.9)
TABLE 4 Use of Shea butter as adjuvant therapy by health
workers
Indication Frequency (%)
Xerosis (dry skin) 111 (56.1)
Nappy dermatitis 84 (42.4)
Infantile seborrheic dermatitis 71 (35.9)
Burn injuries 50 (25.30)
Stretch marks 42 (21.2)
Erythroderma/exfoliative dermatitis 28 (14.1)
Photosensitive lesions 22 (11.1)
Seborrheic dermatitis 21 (10.6)
Psoriasis 21 (10.6)
Hypertrophic scars and keloids 20 (10.1)
Acne 11 (5.6)
Pityriasis versicolor 9 (4.5)
Superficial fungal infections 7 (3.5)
Viral Exanthems (measles/chicken pox) 4 (2.0)
Scabies 4 (2.0)
Rosacea 3 (1.5)
2of3 LETTER
studies are needed to provide more insight into the efficacy of shea
butter in the management of inflammatory dermatoses and its
potential for prospective dermatological formulations and
therapies.
AUTHOR CONTRIBUTIONS
Concept and designs: Olusola Ayanlowo, Cynthia Ebie, Olufolakemi
Cole Adeife, Margaret Ilomuanya, Abigail Adegbulu. Data collection,
analysis, and results: Olusola Ayanlowo, Olufolakemi Cole Adeife, Abi-
gail Adegbulu. Manuscript preparation: Olusola Ayanlowo,
Olufolakemi Cole Adeife, Abigail Adegbulu. Review of manuscript for
scientific content: Olusola Ayanlowo, Cynthia Ebie, Olufolakemi Cole
Adeife, Margaret Ilomuanya, Abigail Adegbulu.
DATA AVAILABILITY STATEMENT
The data that support the findings of this study are available from the
corresponding author upon reasonable request.
Olusola Ayanlowo
1,2
Cynthia Ebie
2
Olufolakemi Cole-Adeife
3
Margaret Ilomuanya
4
Abigail Adegbulu
1
1
Faculty of Clinical Sciences, Dermatology Unit, Department of Medicine,
College of Medicine, University of Lagos, Lagos, Nigeria
2
Dermatology Unit, Department of Medicine, Lagos University Teaching
Hospital, Lagos, Nigeria
3
Dermatology Unit, Department of Medicine, Lagos State University
Teaching Hospital, Lagos, Nigeria
4
Faculty of Pharmacy, Department of Pharmaceutics and Pharmaceutical
Technology, University of Lagos, Lagos, Nigeria
Correspondence
Olusola Ayanlowo, Dermatology Unit, Department of Medicine, Lagos
University Teaching Hospital, Lagos, Nigeria.
Email: solayan05@yahoo.com
ORCID
Olusola Ayanlowo https://orcid.org/0000-0002-1134-3813
Cynthia Ebie https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8156-7556
Olufolakemi Cole-Adeife https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8379-8868
Margaret Ilomuanya https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8819-1937
REFERENCES
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FIGURE 1 Rating of efficacy
of shea butter as adjuvant
treatment in skin conditions by
health practitioners
LETTER 3of3
... The anti-inflammatory properties of shea butter are attributed to the several derivatives of cinnamic acid contained therein [18]. Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E and has semi-solid characteristics and buttery consistency, which makes it an effective emollient and moisturizer for the skin [19]. Thus, shea butter could be an excellent alternative to classic emollients, which are often inaccessible to the majority of patients. ...
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The industrialization of oil seeds is fast becoming an important agro-industrial activity worldwide. This study presents the results of extraction, refining and characterization of both crude and refined Nigerian shea butter oil. The results of characterization of crude and refined oil shows specific gravity of 0.86 and 0.89, moisture content of 2.29 % and 0.12 %, saponification value of 389.89 mg KOH/g and 162.61 mg KOH/g, while the acid value of 8.42 mg KOH/g and 3.36 mg KOH/g, peroxide value of 15 meq/kg and 9.40 meq/kg, and refractive index of 1.472 and 1.467 respectively with it colour observed as milky-cream which are within the required standard specification. The grading of the oil based on the west African standard classified the crude and refined shea butter oils as 3 rd and 2 nd grade respectively, thus establishing their potential for the needs of food industry for manufacturing confectionary, chocolate, edible oil, and a basis for margarines. The shea butter of 3 rd grade is recommended to be used in soap-making or further refined for direct consumption. Introduction In Nigeria, there are abundant vegetable oils, namely; palm oil, coconut oil, groundnut oil, rubber seed oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, soya bean oil and conophor seed oil, e.t.c (Dawodu, 2009). Vegetable oils are normally extracted from fruits, seeds kernel and nuts either by mechanical press or by solvents (Akpabio et. al., 2011).
Winter itch Sheperd integrative dermatology notebook. Integr Dermatol
  • M Sheperd
Sheperd M. Winter itch Sheperd integrative dermatology notebook. Integr Dermatol. 2012. https://dx.doi.org/10.1093/med/9780199907922.001.0001.
Medicinal and nutritional benefits from the Shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa)
  • Muotono P
Moisturising power of shea butter ed by scientific studies. Cosmet Formul Sci
  • K Bird
Bird K. Moisturising power of shea butter ed by scientific studies. Cosmet Formul Sci. 2009. https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/ 2009/05/12.
Moharram H, Ray J, Ozbas S, Juliani H, Simon J. Shea butter: chemistry, quality, and new market potentials. In: ACS Symposium Series. American Chemical Society; 2006. p. 326–40. <https://doi.org/10.1021/bk-2006-0925.ch025>
Medicinal and nutritional benefits from the Shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa)
  • P Muotono
  • I Maanikuu
  • K Peker
Muotono P, Maanikuu I, Peker K. Medicinal and nutritional benefits from the Shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa). J Biol Agric Healthcare. 2017;7 (22):51-57.