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ASSESSMENT OF SEWABILITY PARAMETERS OF AHIMSA AND CONVENTIONAL SILK UNION FABRICS
Abstract
Sustainability and eco-friendliness are the two important aspects of today's fashion industry. Ahimsa silk (Eri Silk) and
hand spun cotton yarn conrm these aspects. Comparison of sewability parameters of Ahimsa silk (Eri) and Conventional
Silk (Muga, Tussar) union fabrics has been accomplished in this research. Objective of the study was to compare sewability parameters of union
fabrics. These fabrics were tested for their seam strength, seam slippage and seam efciency. Union fabrics were prepared from 3 types of silk
yarns – Ahimsa silk (Eri), Conventional silk (Muga and Tussar) with hand spun cotton yarn in three different ratios, viz. 33:67, 50:50 and 67:33.
The results indicate that union fabrics produced by Ahimsa silk with cotton were compatible to the union fabrics produced by conventional silk
with cotton yarns in their sewability parameters, so these should be preferred for construction of various fashion garments and textile products.
... The objective of the study was to identify the optimum sewing thread and sewing needle size for the sewing process of traditional shirting fabrics produced from silk, linen and cotton, and their blends. Some existing researches in the literature focused on evaluating the seam performance of silk fabrics [34,35], linen fabrics [10], cotton fabrics [18,19,22,24,36] and comparing silk and cotton fabrics' seam quality [37]; however, there was no systematic study focusing on silk, linen and cotton fabrics and their blendes systematically. Therefore, the focus of this research was to examine the effects of determined parameters on the seam strength, seam slippage, seam efficiency and fabric sewability. ...
... When the sewing threads used in the study were compared, the general trend was the polyester corespun sewing thread used samples had higher seam strength values than mercerised cotton sewing thread used samples both in warp and weft direction. Similar observations were reported in the literature [10,21,26,34,51] due to polyester corespun's high yarn strength property. However, this was the opposite for the silk (warp and weft direction) and silk/linen (warp direction) fabrics. ...
... Similar results were obtained by Courtney LaPere (2006) and was found out that the seam strength values of cotton fabric were higher than silk fabric [37]. As supporting the literature [10,21,26,34,51], the polyester corespun sewing thread used samples mostly had higher seam strength values than mercerised cotton sewing thread, and it is thought this was due to polyester corespun's high yarn strength property. ...
The role of fabric properties in sewing performance and seam quality is essential, therefore, it is crucial to understand the effect of diferent parameters on traditional fabrics’ sewability properties. This study aimed to evaluate the seam quality of traditional fabrics produced from silk, cotton and linen fibres and their blends in terms of seam strength, seam efficiency and fabric sewability. The samples were sewn using two different sewing needle size (75 Nm and 90 Nm) and sewing thread (100% mercerised cotton and 100% polyester corespun). Based on the obtained results, it can be concluded that sewing thread and fabric type had significant effect on seam strength and seam efficiency. The samples sewn with polyester corespun sewing thread had higher seam strength than other. The sewing needle significantly affected the needle penetration force values and the silk fabric had lowest sewability values both in warp and weft direction.
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