Performance Evaluation of Anti Pilling and Easy-Care Finished Rayon and Rayon/Cotton Satin Fabric

Abstract

Anti-pilling and easy care (resin finish) are the two most common finishes of Textile. In this paper performance of combined anti-pilling and easy-care finish of 100% rayon and 50:50 rayon/cotton without singed satin fabrics for home textile were evaluated. For this study four factors, namely, fabric blend ratio, concentration of Appretan N9211, Arkofix NF and curing method were selected. Fabric blend ratio and curing method were tested at two levels, whereas the concentration of Appretan N9211, Arkofix NF was tested at three levels. The performance of the finish was evaluated by testing eight response variables, namely, pilling before and after wash, dimensional stability, tear strength, Berger whiteness, yellowness index, smoothness appearance and light fastness. The study revealed that a recipe containing 100 g/l of Appretan N9211, 100 g/l of Arkofix NF and normal cure (at 150°C for 3 min) improved the pilling, dimensional stability, and smooth appearance and tear strength improved. However, the reduction in Berger whiteness and a minimum increment in yellowness index were observed. The light fastness of the fabrics, however, did not change significantly.

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Performance Evaluation of Anti Pilling and Easy-
Care Finished Rayon and Rayon/Cotton Satin
Fabric
Farhana Naeem, Fareha Asim & Muhammad Tufail
To cite this article: Farhana Naeem, Fareha Asim & Muhammad Tufail (2022) Performance
Evaluation of Anti Pilling and Easy-Care Finished Rayon and Rayon/Cotton Satin Fabric, Journal of
Natural Fibers, 19:3, 1033-1047, DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2020.1787912
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Performance Evaluation of Anti Pilling and Easy-Care Finished
Rayon and Rayon/Cotton Satin Fabric
Farhana Naeem
a
, Fareha Asim
a
, and Muhammad Tufail
b
a
Department of Textile Engineering, NED University of Engineering & Technology, Karachi, Pakistan;
b
Department of
Industrial & Manufacturing Engineering, NED University of Engineering & Technology, Karachi, Pakistan
ABSTRACT
Anti-pilling and easy care (resin nish) are the two most common nishes of
Textile. In this paper performance of combined anti-pilling and easy-care
nish of 100% rayon and 50:50 rayon/cotton without singed satin fabrics for
home textile were evaluated. For this study four factors, namely, fabric blend
ratio, concentration of Appretan N9211, Arkox NF and curing method were
selected. Fabric blend ratio and curing method were tested at two levels,
whereas the concentration of Appretan N9211, Arkox NF was tested at three
levels. The performance of the nish was evaluated by testing eight response
variables, namely, pilling before and after wash, dimensional stability, tear
strength, Berger whiteness, yellowness index, smoothness appearance and
light fastness. The study revealed that a recipe containing 100 g/l of
Appretan N9211, 100 g/l of Arkox NF and normal cure (at 150°C for 3 min)
improved the pilling, dimensional stability, and smooth appearance and tear
strength improved. However, the reduction in Berger whiteness and
a minimum increment in yellowness index were observed. The light fastness
of the fabrics, however, did not change signicantly.
摘要
防起球和易护理（树脂整理）是两种最常见的纺织品整理剂. 本文对100%
人造丝和50:50人造丝/棉混纺无烧毛缎纹织物的抗起球及易护理整理性能
进行了评价. 本研究选择了四个因素: 织物混纺比、阿普坦N9211的浓度、
Arkox-NF和固化方法. 织物混纺比和固化方法在两个水平上进行测试, 而
Appretan N9211、Arkox NF的浓度在三个水平上进行测试. 通过测试水洗
前后起球、尺寸稳定性、撕裂强度、berger白度、黄度指数、平滑度、耐
光性等8个响应变量, 对整理剂的性能进行了评价. 研究表明, 含有100g/l
Appretan N9211、100g/l Arkox NF和正常固化（在150°C下持续3分钟）
的配方可改善起球、尺寸稳定性、光滑外观和撕裂强度. 然而, 伯杰白度降
低, 黄度指数增加最小. 但织物的耐光性变化不大.
KEYWORDS
Satin; rayon; easy care;
pilling; smoothness
appearance; dimensional
stability
关键词
缎子; 人造丝; 容易护理;
起球; 光滑外观; 尺寸稳定
性
Introduction
Owing to changes in technological vogues in rapid pace within the textile domain, there is a significant
change in savor regarding satisfaction. Users today, desire esthetic appeal as well as performance
attributes of textile. These two attributes together with the durability of the end product play
a prominent part when selecting the desired product. Consumers of textile goods not only require
comfort but functional and esthetic properties as well (Hussain et al. 2015).
From the comfort point of view fabric made of natural fibers such as cellulosic fiber is desirable as
for esthetic point of view wrinkle and pills free appearance of the fabric is usually demanded. Cotton is
one of the most commonly used cellulosic fibers in textile. There is another regenerated cellulosic fiber
CONTACT Farhana Naeem farhanap@neduet.edu.pk Department of Textile Engineering, NED University of Engineering &
Technology, Karachi, Pakistan
JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS
2022, VOL. 19, NO. 3, 1033–1047
https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2020.1787912
© 2020 Taylor & Francis

called rayon fiber that had gain importance over the years because of its extraordinary characteristic
(Nayak and Mishra 2016). When it comes to the esthetic appeal, both fibers do lack in wrinkle and
pilling performance. To an extent, the wrinkle recovery of Rayon fiber is worse than cotton (Cozytown
Linens Blog 2013).
The pilling which is the formation of small balls on the fabric surface due to abrasion depends
mainly on type of fiber, yarn, fabric weave, manufacturing process, whereas its intensity measurement
depends upon testing equipment (Göktepe 2002; Omeroglu and Ulku 2007; Özdil 2002; Ruhul and
Rana 2015; Syed and Jhatial 2013). The creasing on the cellulosic fabrics occurs due to the molecular
chains slip on each other in the amorphous region thus breaking the weak hydrogen bonds. The
formation of hydrogen bonds in the stretched places holds the creases in fabric. The wrinkle recovery
mechanism in cellulosic fibers is established on introducing stable cross-links so as to avoid slippage of
molecular chains (Asim and Mahmood 2012; Marsh 1947).
Numerous studies have been conducted that worked on the crease or wrinkle recovery (easy care) of
the cotton fabric (Asim and Mahmood 2012; Gill and Steele 1962; Ibrahim et al. 2008; Matsukawa et al.
1983; Shet and Yabani 1981). In one such study, the effect of crease-resistant finish on wrinkle recovery,
breaking strength, tearing strength and pilling performance of 100% cotton plain fabrics was studied
(Can et al. 2009). In another study, reactive dyed Cotton fabrics were treated with dimethylol dihydroxy
ethylene urea (DMDHEU) resin in order to improve the crease-recovery properties (Hassan 2009).
Similarly, pilling properties of the textile were evaluated by several researchers (Göktepe 2002;
Omeroglu and Ulku 2007; Özdil 2002; Ruhul and Rana 2015; Syed and Jhatial 2013). In one of the
studies, the pilling of the satin rayon fabrics from bamboo and bamboo/cotton was observed to be
poor at singe and without singe condition. The use of acrylic copolymer binder was found to be useful
in improving the pilling of satin fabric (Naeem, Asim, and Tufail 2018).
In the light of above literature review, the objective of this study was to finish a 100% Rayon and
50:50 Rayon/Cotton satin with anti-pilling and wrinkle free – easy-care finish to improve not only the
esthetic look of the fabric but also to propose a recipe that will improve or maintain the overall
performance of the fabric used in home textile.
Experimental
Fabric
The 100% rayon and 50/50 rayon/cotton plain fabrics were used in this research work. The construc-
tion of the fabrics was consisting of 30s ring yarn in warp and weft direction, and the thread density
was maintained at 76 ends per inch and 68 picks per inch. The fabrics were pre-treated without
singeing process according to industrial parameter in a local textile mill. The 100% rayon (plain and
satin fabrics) was singed using a 6 mm flame height at 45° flame angle, whereas 50:50 rayon/cotton
(plain and satin fabrics) was singed with an 8 mm flame height and a flame angle of 90°. The speed of
the singeing machine was kept at 140 m/min for all fabrics (Naeem, Asim, and Tufail 2018). The
bleaching recipes were kept the same as generally used in the industry. The recipe is given in Table 1.
Table 1. Bleaching recipe (Solomatic bleaching).
Composition Recipe (ml/kg)
100% Rayon
(Plain and Satin Fabrics)
H
2
O
2
NaOH
Stabilizer
Wetting agent
Sequesting agent
10.0
10.0
5.0
4.0
3.0
50:50 Rayon/Cotton
(Plain and Satin Fabrics)
H
2
O
2
NaOH
Stabilizer
Wetting agent
Sequesting agent
15
10.0
5.0
4.0
3.0
1034 F. NAEEM ET AL.

Chemicals
The Appretan N 9211 (a nonionic acrylate copolymer dispersion that behaves as a self-crosslinking
agent) was selected as an anti-pilling agent.
The recipe of resin finish contains Arkofix NF (DMDHEU-based resin, a cyclic urea derivative in
water), Catalyst FM (inorganic salt – Magnesium Chloride solution in water, give better tear strength),
citric acid and softener Ceralube PIP (secondary polyethylene, nonionic softener to improve tear
strength and provide soft handle).
Application method
The liquor for finishing was prepared in one bath. All chemicals, such as Appretan N 9211, Arkofix
NF, Catalyst FM, citric acid and softener Ceralube PIP weighed in particular concentration per liter
and stirred thoroughly before padding. Three concentrations of Appretan N 9211, Arkofix NF 40, 100
and 150 g/l were selected. The concentration of Catalyst FM was taken as 25% of the concentration of
Arkofix NF in all recipes. The concentration of citric acid was kept 0.3 g/l and Ceralube PIP was kept
20 g/l in all recipes.
The pad-dry- cure and pad-dry- shock cure process was used for the fixation of finish.
●Pad-dry- cure, the fabric was padded at 80% pickup, dried at 130°C for 5 min and cured at 150°C
for 3 min.
●Pad – dry – shock cure, the fabric was padded at 80% pickup, dried at 130°C for 5 min and shock
cured at 170°C for 30 s.
Evaluation of the fabric
The satin fabric from 100% rayon and 50/50 rayon/cotton was evaluated using standard test proce-
dures. Ten response variables, namely, Pilling Resistance before and after wash of the fabrics were
tested by ISO 12945-2, Tear Strength by ISO 13937-1, Dimensional Stability by ISO 6330 5A (40°C)
Tumble Dry, Berger Whiteness AATCC 110, Yellowness Index by ASTM E-313-15 using spectro-
photometer (datacolor SF 650), crease resistant by Smoothness appearance AATCC 124 and light
fastness by ISO 105 BO2. Each response was tested with two replicates according to the standard test
procedure with the standard deviation being within ± 5%. The laboratory was maintained at standard
atmospheric conditions of 20 + 2°C temperature and 65 + 2% relative humidity.
The pilling and smoothness appearance (SA) grades were given using standard replicas; the
interpretation is given as under,
Pilling Scale (ISO 12945-2)
Smoothness appearance (SA) replicates (AATCC 124)
5 No change.
4 Slight surface fuzzing and/or partially formed pills.
3 Moderate surface fuzzing and/or moderate pilling. Pills of varying size and density partially covering the specimen surface.
2 Distinct surface fuzzing and/or distinct pilling. Pills of varying size and density covering a large
proportion of the specimen surface.
1 Dense surface fuzzing and/or severe pilling. Pills of varying size and density covering the whole of the specimen surface.
SA-5 Very smooth, pressed, finished appearance.
SA-4 Smooth, finished appearance.
SA-3.5 Fairly smooth, but non-pressed appearance.
SA-3 Mussed, non-pressed appearance.
SA-2 Rumpled, obviously wrinkled appearance.
SA-1 Crumpled, creased and severely wrinkled appearance
JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 1035

Experimental design
The experimental design factors and respective levels are given in Table 2. The four factors, namely,
Fabric blend ratio and curing method were tested at two levels, whereas Appretan N9211 and Arkofix
NF were tested at three levels. According to the design, there were 36 runs with each run repeated two
times; hence, the total number of runs was 72. The trials have been carried out in random order
corresponding to the design matrix shown in Table 3.
Results and discussion
The pilling of 100% rayon and 50:50 rayon/cotton satin with and without singed satin fabric was poor
(Cozytown Linens Blog 2013). Therefore, for experimental investigation unsigned 100% rayon and
50:50 rayon/cotton satin fabrics were selected.
In this study, the evaluation of anti-pilling and easy-care finish was carried out by testing eight
response variables. The pilling before and after wash, dimensional change and smoothness appearance
were indicated as the functional performance of the finish, whereas, tear strength, Berger whiteness,
yellowness index and light fastness were considered as the effect in fabric characteristic due to the finish.
The change in pilling before and after wash, dimensional change, tear strength, Berger whiteness,
yellowness index, smoothness appearance and light fastness has been shown in Tables 4 and 5. The
graphical representation of the experimental results has been shown in Figures 1–8. The graphs were
plotted on the average values of actual experimental data along with the standard deviations of
respective value.
Pilling resistance
The change in pilling resistance before and after wash of satin-finished fabrics with respect to
unfinished is given in Tables 4 and 5. It has been shown in that pilling resistance before and after
wash was improved at all concentrations of Appretan N9211, Arkofix NF and curing method. In case
of 100% rayon (before wash) the improvement ranges from 63% to 125% whereas for 50:50 rayon/
cotton it ranges from 33% to 200%. However, the increment in pilling resistance after wash is
comparatively less than before wash because laundering condition tends to reduce the pilling resis-
tance of the fabric (Göktepe 2002).
It is depicted in Figures 1 and 2 that the pilling resistance before and after wash significantly
improved at 100 g/l of Appretan N9211 – normal cure and the concentration of Arkofix NF can be
chosen either 40 or 100 or 150 g/l. The Appretan N9211 is an acrylic copolymer binder and its function
to improve the pilling resistance characteristics of woven fabrics by forming a tough, flexible film that
has good adhesion of fiber surface (Schindler and Hauser 2004). Besides improving the crease
recovery, resin also helps to improve the pilling and abrasion resistance of the textile fabrics (Derek
2003; Schindler and Hauser 2004).
Dimensional change
The change in warp and weft shrinkage (dimensional change) of the finished fabric with respect to the
unfinished has been shown in Tables 4 and 5. It is evident from the data that the dimensional stability
Table 2. The design factors and respective levels used in experiment.
Factor Level
Fabric blend ratio 100% Rayon 50:50 Rayon:Cotton -
Appretan N9211 40 g/l 100 g/l 150 g/l
Arkofix NF 40 g/l 100 g/l 150 g/l
Curing method Normal Cure Shock Cure -
1036 F. NAEEM ET AL.

Table 3. Experiments run order of satin fabrics.
Factors Factors
Run
Order
Fabric Blend
Ratio
Appretan
N9211
Arkofix
NF
Curing
Method
Run
Order
Fabric Blend
Ratio
Appretan
N9211
Arkofix
NF
Curing
Method
g/l g/l g/l g/l
1 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 150 Shock Cure 37 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 150 Shock Cure
2 100% Rayon 40 150 Normal
Cure
38 100% Rayon 40 150 Normal Cure
3 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 150 Shock Cure 39 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 100 Shock Cure
4 100% Rayon 150 150 Shock Cure 40 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 150 Shock Cure
5 100% Rayon 150 150 Normal
Cure
41 100% Rayon 150 100 Shock Cure
6 100% Rayon 100 100 Normal
Cure
42 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 40 Shock Cure
7 100% Rayon 40 40 Shock Cure 43 100% Rayon 100 40 Shock Cure
8 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 40 Normal
Cure
44 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 100 Normal Cure
9 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 150 Normal
Cure
45 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 40 Shock Cure
10 100% Rayon 40 40 Normal
Cure
46 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 100 Normal Cure
11 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 100 Shock Cure 47 100% Rayon 40 40 Normal Cure
12 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 40 Normal
Cure
48 100% Rayon 40 100 Normal Cure
13 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 150 Normal
Cure
49 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 40 Normal Cure
14 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 100 Normal
Cure
50 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 150 Normal Cure
15 100% Rayon 40 40 Shock Cure 51 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 100 Normal Cure
16 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 100 Shock Cure 52 100% Rayon 100 40 Normal Cure
17 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 150 Shock Cure 53 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 40 Shock Cure
18 100% Rayon 150 40 Shock Cure 54 100% Rayon 100 150 Shock Cure
19 100% Rayon 40 100 Shock Cure 55 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 100 Shock Cure
20 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 150 Normal
Cure
56 100% Rayon 100 40 Normal Cure
21 100% Rayon 150 100 Shock Cure 57 100% Rayon 40 150 Shock Cure
22 100% Rayon 150 40 Shock Cure 58 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 100 Shock Cure
23 100% Rayon 100 150 Normal
Cure
59 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 40 Shock Cure
24 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 100 Normal
Cure
60 100% Rayon 150 100 Normal Cure
25 100% Rayon 150 100 Normal
Cure
61 100% Rayon 40 150 Shock Cure
26 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 40 Normal
Cure
62 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 150 Shock Cure
27 100% Rayon 150 40 Normal
Cure
63 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 150 Normal Cure
28 100% Rayon 40 100 Normal
Cure
64 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 100 Shock Cure
29 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 150 Normal
Cure
65 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
40 100 Normal Cure
30 100% Rayon 100 100 Normal
Cure
66 100% Rayon 100 150 Normal Cure
31 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 40 Shock Cure 67 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 40 Normal Cure
32 100% Rayon 100 100 Shock Cure 68 100% Rayon 150 150 Normal Cure
(Continued)
JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 1037

in warp and weft improved after finishing; the improvement in warp direction ranges from 77% to
100% and for weft direction it ranges from 2% to 124%.
It is also evident from Figures 3 and 4 that all combinations of Appretan N9211, Arkofix NF and
curing method, the change in warp and weft dimensional change was lingered within ± 3%, which is
the most common requirement of the dimensional change for woven fabrics. The improvement in
dimensional change is because of the resin Arkofix NF that makes the satin fabric shrink proof after
washing or allow a maximum of 3% to 5% shrinkage (Derek 2003).
Tear strength
The change in tear strength in warp and weft direction has been shown in Tables 4 and 5. The tear
strength of 100% rayon and 50:50 rayon/cotton satin fabrics increases after the application of anti-
pilling and easy-care finish. Increment in tear strength is higher in 100% rayon compared to 50:50
rayon/cotton and it ranges from 130% to 303% and −2% to 46% respectively.
It is shown in Figure 4a that the maximum increase in tear strength of 100% rayon is observed at
a concentration of 100 g/l Appretan N9211-Normal cure while the concentration of Arkofix NF can be
chosen as 40 or 100 or 150 g/l. In case of 50:50 rayon/cotton as shown in Figure 4b the maximum tear
strength can be attainable at 40 g/l Appretan N9211 and Arkofix NF – shock cure. The recipe included
polyethylene softener which aid in improvement of tear strength; furthermore, Appretan N9211 is an
acrylic copolymer which tends to form a flexible film that has good adhesion of fiber surface (Schindler
and Hauser 2004).
Berger whiteness
Tables 4 and 5 shows a reduction in Berger whiteness of 100% rayon and 50:50 satin. It can be noticed
that reduction in Berger whiteness is less at the lower concentration of Arkofix NF (a resin) which is
mainly due to the reason that the easy-care finish causes yellowness or reduces whiteness especially in
un-dyed fabrics (Schindler and Hauser 2004).
It is shown in Figure 5 that there is no remarkable change in the Berger whiteness of 100% rayon
and 50:50 rayon/cotton at normal cure and at shock cure. Although there is a difference of 20°C of
temperature between normal to shock cure, maybe because of the difference of curing timings (3 min
for normal cure and 30 s for shock) the change in the Berger whiteness for normal cure and shock cure
is somehow not significant. Furthermore, no significant difference in the results of Berger whiteness of
100% rayon and 50:50 rayon/cotton is apparent.
Yellowness index
The change in yellowness index of 100% rayon and 50:50 rayon/cotton satin fabrics is given in Tables 4
and 5. The Berger whiteness and yellowness index are linked with each other. The reduction in Berger
Table 3. (Continued).
Factors Factors
Run
Order
Fabric Blend
Ratio
Appretan
N9211
Arkofix
NF
Curing
Method
Run
Order
Fabric Blend
Ratio
Appretan
N9211
Arkofix
NF
Curing
Method
33 100% Rayon 150 150 Shock Cure 69 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
150 40 Shock Cure
34 100% Rayon 40 100 Shock Cure 70 100% Rayon 100 150 Shock Cure
35 100% Rayon 100 40 Shock Cure 71 50;50 Rayon/
Cotton
100 40 Normal Cure
36 100% Rayon 150 40 Normal
Cure
72 100% Rayon 100 100 Shock Cure
1038 F. NAEEM ET AL.

Table 4. Percent changes in characteristics of 100% rayon.
100% Rayon
Normal Cure Shock Cure
Appretan N 9211 (g/l) 40 100 150 40 100 150
Arkofix NF (g/l) 40 100 150 40 100 150 40 100 150 40 100 150 40 100 150 40 100 150
Change in Pilling Ratings 88 113 125 125 125 125 125 125 125 63 113 113 113 125 125 88 125 125
Change in Pilling Ratings after wash 50 25 87.5 100 125 125 125 125 125 62.5 25 87.5 125 112.5 125 125 125 125
Warp Shrinkage 77 93 91 87 82 79 82 85 98 82 97 93 93 84 89 95 78 98
Weft Shrinkage 57 124 96 85 55 47 79 41 78 73 88 61 70 53 57 77 85 77
Change in Warp Tear 213.2 180.9 197.0 197.6 195.7 130.8 132.7 138.6 147.7 212.1 176.0 162.3 208.8 195.2 151.2 132.7 102.3 125.7
Change in Weft Tear 303.4 223.0 237.6 285.3 285.3 185.3 184.9 154.9 190.2 307.6 225.7 204.3 257.6 250.0 202.3 183.8 139.3 200.8
Change in berger whiteness −8.8 −12.6 −12.0 −9.7 −7.6 −12.4 −7.3 −11.0 −7.4 −5.6 −7.3 −12.6 −4.5 −5.8 −12.4 −5.7 −8.6 −10.7
Change in Yellowness Index 25.7 52.8 50.3 29.4 20.1 50.3 13.4 30.7 24.5 7.8 13.4 52.8 4.2 8.0 50.3 9.4 28.5 41.1
Change in Smoothness Appearance 83 117 133 83 117 117 67 117 117 50 100 133 83 117 133 67 100 117
Change in light fastness 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 1039

Table 5. Percent changes in characteristics of 50:50 rayon/cotton.
50:50 Rayon/Cotton
Normal Cure Shock Cure
Appretan N 9211 (g/l) 40 100 150 40 100 150
Arkofix NF (g/l) 40 100 150 40 100 150 40 100 150 40 100 150 40 100 150 40 100 150
Change in Pilling Ratings before wash 100 167 167 200 200 150 117 200 200 63 67 33 150 133 150 167 150 100
Change in Pilling Ratings after wash 100 33 83 200 200 200 133 183 200 17 25 17 100 83 150 67 83 117
Warp Shrinkage 87 91 82 100 89 85 92 87 84 94 91 93 97 93 90 94 94 93
Weft Shrinkage 71 2 4 13 19 14 35 35 23 79 63 53 71 60 23 61 54 27
Change in Warp Tear 36.5 38.9 20.5 31.3 11.1 12.1 6.3 2.1 0.8 69.1 33.9 22.2 32.0 6.6 13.1 8.3 9.8 −2.0
Change in Weft Tear 45.6 23.1 23.3 51.1 29.2 26.4 35.5 19.2 6.7 66.5 50.9 37.6 53.0 34.8 22.4 16.2 17.8 21.6
Change in berger whiteness −11.8 −18.4 −22.6 −13.0 −17.5 −21.1 −11.8 −23.5 −28.3 −8.9 −13.1 −9.1 −7.0 −16.6 −9.3 −9.6 −14.4 −7.6
Change in Yellowness Index 21.6 52.8 91.0 34.0 59.9 82.3 24.0 96.6 121.7 10.9 40.7 16.5 6.0 61.4 19.1 13.7 44.1 3.2
Change in Smoothness Appearance 100 120 133 100 100 120 120 100 120 100 133 133 116 133 120 153 133 133
Change in light fastness −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11 −11
1040 F. NAEEM ET AL.

whiteness causes the increment in yellowness index with high proportionate. This can be observed
while comparing Tables 4 and 5.
Tables 4 and 5 reveal an increase in the yellowness index of the fabric after the application of anti-
pilling and easy-care finish. Increasing the concentration of Arkofix NF the yellowness index of the
fabric increased.
Figure 1. Pilling resistance before wash.
Figure 2. Pilling resistance after wash.
JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 1041

The graph in Figure 6 depicted that the increment in yellowness index is relatively high in case
of normal cure, especially at 150 g/l of arkofix NF and Appratan N 9211 for 50:50 rayon/cotton.
The reduction in yellowness index is desired; therefore, a curing method and final recipe will be
selected to have the optimized results of all the characteristics of 100% rayon and 50:50 rayon/
cotton fabrics.
Figure 3. (a) Dimensional change in warp (Shrinkage). (b) Dimensional change in weft (Shrinkage).
1042 F. NAEEM ET AL.

Smoothness appearance
The unwrinkled appearance of the fabric can be referred to as smoothness appearance. Without finish the
value of smoothness appearance (SA) of 100% rayon and 50:50 rayon/cotton is poor. Tables 4 and 5 show
Figure 4. (a) Tear strength in warp. (b) Tear strength in weft.
JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 1043

the change in SA rating. It can evident from the data that the improvement in SA for 100% rayon satin
ranges from 50% to 133% whereas for 50:50 rayon/cotton the increment is relatively higher which ranges
from 100% to 153%. These results verify that the wrinkle recovery of the Rayon is less than cotton
Figure 5. Berger whiteness.
Figure 6. Yellowness index.
1044 F. NAEEM ET AL.

Figure 7. Smoothness appearance.
Figure 8. Light fastness.
JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 1045

(Cozytown Linens Blog. 2013) and hence 50:50 rayon/cotton showed better results as compared to 100%
rayon.
The smoothness appearance of the satin fabrics before finish was poor; therefore, an improvement
of 100% or more is required. A smoothness appearance rating of SA 3 to 3.5 is desirable. It is shown in
Figure 7 for satin fabrics the concentration of Appretan N9211 and Arkofix NF either 100 or 150 g/l
and a fixation procedure either normal and shock cure can produce desire result.
Light fastness
The change in light fastness of satin fabrics has been shown in Tables 4 and 5 and plotted in Figure 8. It
is evident that the light fastness of 100% rayon satin fabric did not change after anti-pilling and easy-
care finish. However, a reduction of 11% which is equal to 0.5 grade change of color is obvious in 50:50
rayon/cotton satin fabric. The reduction in light fastness is mainly because of the Arkofix NF (easy care
resin) (Schindler and Hauser 2004).
Conclusions
●The pilling before and after wash of both 100% rayon and 50:50 rayon/cotton satin fabrics was
improved after anti-pilling and resin finish. The washing condition has an effect on pilling
resistance and increment in the pilling after wash is less compare to before wash. The improve-
ment in pilling ranges from 33% to 200% before wash. A recipe of 100 g/l of Appretan N9211 and
the concentration of Arkofix NF either 40 or 100 or 150 g/l at normal cure can give optimum
pilling result (Grade 4 or better) before and after wash.
●Dimensional change in warp and weft direction of the satin fabric improved and remains within
±3% after finish.
●The increment in the tear strength of the 100% satin fabric is significant and within 300%,
whereas it is within 45% for 50:50 rayon/cotton satin. The concentration of 100 g/l of Appretan
N9211 and the concentration of Arkofix NF either 40 or 100 or 150 g/l at normal cure maximize
the tear strength of satin fabrics.
●Smoothness appearance of the satin fabrics improved after finish and it is within 153% for 100%
rayon and 50:50 rayon/cotton. A smoothness appearance rating of SA 3 to 3.5 is desirable and it
can be obtained by using a recipe contain 100 or 150 g/l of Appretan N9211 and Arkofix NF and
a fixation can be done at normal or shock cure.
●However, Berger whiteness of satin fabric reduced which increase the yellowness index of fabric.
The increment in yellowness index is more at higher concentration of resin Arkofix NF and at
shock cure.
●The light fastness of the 100% rayon satin fabric was unaffected by the finish, but for 50:50 rayon/
cotton there is reduction of half grade (11.11%) in light fastness.
In order to suggest one recipe that will ensure the good performance of finishing and optimum
values of all the response variables the concentration of anti-pilling agent (Appretan N9211) and
concentration of Arkofix can be kept at 100 g/l and curing will be done on Normal cure (at 150°C
for 3 min).
Acknowledgments
The authors express their earnest thanks to Yunus Textiles Mills Limited extending their support for pre-treatment of
the fabrics and the ARCHROMA Pakistan for allowing to carry out the necessary experimental work.
1046 F. NAEEM ET AL.

Funding
The research work has been funded by NED University of Engineering & Technology.
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