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Indigenous Fish skin craft revived through contemporary Fashion.
Past, present, and future ways that social justice has affected particular
communities
Keywords: Fishskin, Arctic traditional Knowledge, Sustainable material, Inclusive jobs.
Elisa Palomino
Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts,
1 Granary Square N1C 4AA London, UK
e.palomino@csm.arts.ac.uk
+44 7404 430210
Edwin Phiri
London College of Fashion, University of the Arts,
272 High Holborn WC1V 7EY London, UK
e.phiri@fashion.arts.ac.uk
+44 7939718974
Katrín María Káradóttir
Iceland University of the Arts,
Þverholt 11, 105 Reykjavík / Iceland
katak@lhi.is
+35 4552 4000
ABSTRACT
The use of fish skin for the construction of garments and accessories is an ancient tradition
shared by Arctic societies in coastal areas. They have maintained a strong relationship with
the environment, developing a subsistence lifestyle depending on the marine environment’s
animal resources for food and clothing. Arctic fish skin craft has become a way to
communicate ecological change and traditional knowledge - effectively enhancing cultural
resilience for the Arctic people. During the broad transformation occurring over the last
century, Arctic Indigenous peoples have demonstrated resilience to systematic colonization
and repression of their language, culture and native fishing rights as well as dramatic
ecological changes in seafood security. This paper looks at the role of fish skin in the Arctic
as a way to bridge knowledge and social justice between generations and cultures and to
nurture resilience during times of change and transformation.
Meanwhile, the use of fish skin by Arctic Indigenous people has recently been assimilated as
a fashion sustainable alternative material to exotic leather due to its lower environmental
impact. The Atlantic Leather tannery, located on the north coast of Iceland, has been one of
the main agents in the renaissance of the fish skin craft. Processing fish leather since 1994,
based on the ancient Icelandic tradition of making shoes from the skins of wolfish reviving
ancestral tanning techniques. The tannery has brought this historic eco-luxury material back
into fashion providing Blue jobs for coastal dwellers in remote rural areas, maintaining the
viability of the fisheries sector and attracting young people to work in them. This paper looks
at Atlantic Leather’s role to preserve the rich cultural traditions that have been developed
within the Icelandic fishing industry while processing fish leather promoting social justice
through inclusive jobs.
HISTORICAL CONTEXT
The specific groups with historical evidence of fish leather production are the Inuit, Yup’ik
and Athabascan of Alaska and Canada; the Nivkh and Nanai Siberian peoples; the Ainu from
the Hokkaido island in Japan and Sakhalin Island, Russia; the Hezhe from northeast China,
Icelanders and the Saami of northern Scandinavia.
Arctic indigenous peoples depended for centuries on hunting wildlife, fishing for salmon, and
gathering berries and roots, for their livelihood (Ichikawa, 2003). Their history is closely
linked to the issue of aboriginal hunting and fishing rights. Salmon has been of great
importance to the local economies and to the aboriginal cultures of Native North Atlantic in
the U.S. and Canada, Northeast China, Japan and Russia, but national governments similarly
mistreated the local populations by, among other things, limiting or restricting their access to
traditional fishing trying to force them to adopt non-traditional ways of life to them such
farming through cultural assimilation (Roche, 1998). Today, much of the Arctic traditional
subsistence way of life has been lost due to longstanding assimilation policies and the
subsequent impact has been extremely damaging for Arctic Indigenous peoples (Ichikawa,
2003).
The Ainu from the Hokkaido island in Japan, the Hezhe from northeast China and the Nanai
from Russian Siberia were forced into mass agricultural and industrial labour during the late
19th Century (Jiao, 2012). All these indigenous groups were soon working and living as a
second-class minority group among Japanese, Chinese or Russian labour force. These
collectives irrevocably altered the lifestyle of the Arctic indigenous people. Their traditional
hunter gatherer lifestyle disappeared.
Despite the importance of the salmon to the Ainu way of life, the Japanese government
prohibited the Ainu from taking salmon since the 1870s, when the Meiji regime force them
through assimilation policies. Consequently, Ainu people who relied on salmon to
support their families were prohibited from fishing it. Today, the Ainu people are engaged in
a movement to re-establish their rights as indigenous people and to restore important
elements of their traditional culture like their fishing rights (Ichikawa, 2003).
Arctic indigenous peoples, like many indigenous communities across the world, are still
dealing with the effects of deep historic trauma from centuries of colonisation, exploitation
and misrepresentation. During this broad transformation occurring over the last century, they
have demonstrated resilience and adaptability to systematic colonization and repression of
their language and culture as well as dramatic ecological changes in seafood security
(Watterson, 2019).
Arctic fish skin craft has become a way to communicate ecological change and traditional
knowledge - effectively enhancing cultural resilience for them. The protection of the cultures
and rights of native Arctic people is a prerequisite to saving the fish skin craft. But there are
still some unresolved problems, especially in the field of native fishing rights for Ainu people
in Hokkaido, Japan, and Scandinavian Saami. Governments need to give a true recognition of
Arctic indigenous fishing rights.
ANCIENT ICELANDIC TRADITION OF MAKING SHOES FROM THE SKINS OF
WOLFFISH
Icelandic history, right from the settlement of Iceland in the 9th century, has been interwoven
with marine resources and fish have been their main source of food and income (Sigfusson
and Arnason, 2017). Icelanders are known for reusing everything and they still have their
ancestors’ spirit of finding the useful in everything. Icelanders through history had great
respect for the skins of fish and to waste them was therefore been frowned upon. If not eaten
it was dried or tanned, used to make shoes and occasionally to bind books.
Icelanders wore shoes made of fish skins processed using traditional tanning methods. They
were soft, supple, flat-soled traditional footwear (Mould, 2018). Mostly wolfish skin was
used as it was considered both beautiful and durable. The shoes made of fish skin were most
common in the West fjords of Iceland and was the skin of the leopard fish, a close relative of
the wolfish, most sought after as the skin was sometimes big enough to get 2 pairs of shoes,
one for a grownup and one for a child. The bigger shoes were made from the wider part of the
skin and were considered both more beautiful and less likely to break. Two kinds of shoes
were made, one that had a seam at the toe and the heal and another that only had a seam at the
toe but pulled together and sewed with a string to a strip of fish skin or sometimes lambskin.
Among qualities of the fish skin shoes were considered that they were light, warm, did not
become hard, and were good in frost and soft snow as they lay very close to the foot and very
little snow made its way into them. The downsides were that they did not last very long and
were not suitable for wet snow. Women used these shoes mostly indoors but men mostly
outdoors during winter when the ground was covered with snow.
Contemporary accounts of travels around Iceland in the mid to later 18th century describe
and illustrate men wearing traditional fish skin shoes (Hald, 1972), suggesting that the
working man wore them on a daily basis. Icelanders measured distances by how many pairs
of fish skin shoes would be worn out by walking over the path.
Around 1910 fish skin shoes started to disappear but some Icelanders still made shoes from
skate skin and sometimes gloves worn over wool gloves for protection. Fish skin was not
considered suitable for clothes used for fishing as the skin was better dry and was it widely
considered that the fish skin would disappear and become a part of the ocean once again
(Kristjánsson, 1980)
CONTEMPORARY CONTEXT
ATLANTIC LEATHER'S ROLE TO PRESERVE ICELANDIC FISHING INDUSTRY
CULTURAL TRADITIONS
The Atlantic Leather tannery, located on the north coast of Iceland, has been one of the main
agents in the renaissance of the fish skin craft. Processing fish leather since 1994, based on
the ancient Icelandic tradition of making shoes from the skins of wolfish (Rahme, 2006).
The use of fish skins as leather was almost lost in Iceland within a generation with the arrival
of new materials. The founder of Atlantic leather, Gunnsteinn Björnsson had been working
already for a few years tanning sheepskins. He remembered the Icelandic tradition of fish
skin shoes and was curious to try and develop fish skin as a fully tanned leather and did so
with great success. The product is today a part of Icelandic cultural tradition and fits with a
national identity of a nation that still considers fishing extremely important. It is also a great
example towards the increasing wish to waste less and to lessen the national carbon footprint
per capita.
The tannery has brought this historic eco-luxury material back into fashion, simultaneously
reviving ancestral tanning techniques and providing jobs for the local community. Their fish
leather is a by-product of the fishing industry, exploiting fish not bred specifically for their
skin, that would otherwise be discarded (Gestsson, 2012, Jacobs, 2018) By recycling waste,
fish skin minimises landfill and keeps resources in use for longer.
Atlantic Leather skins are sourced locally from nearby Nordic regulated farms which
provides a sustainable source of food while maintaining fish stocks (Sigfusson, 2017).
Sourcing and processing raw materials close to home shortens transport routes, lowers carbon
footprint and increases transparency across the supply chain (Texcycle, 2019) ‘Nearshoring’
the fish skin production has provided new job opportunities for the coastal dwelling
communities whilst minimising environmental impact, both locally and globally.
Special attention is given to the new technologies used on their fish skin production and to
address challenges such as energy, environment and climate change. The entire process of
producing fish skin at Atlantic Leather requires less energy to produce than conventional
leather. It relies on the power of nature using geothermal energy from Icelandic volcanos to
power the production processes (Logadóttir, 2015) and is non-impactful on the environment.
Fish leather does not use endangered species that could threaten biodiversity (Rahme, 2006)
but is produced instead from four different non-endangered species of fish; Salmon, perch,
wolf fish and cod in a diverse range of colours, textures, and finishes all tested by the
European Chemical Agency.
Fish leather is a highly biodegradable natural by-product and it has outstanding longevity, one
of the most important elements in sustainability (Sigfusson, 2017). Fish leather is stronger
than other leather types, if the same thickness are compared. The fibre structure of fish skin
runs crosswise, rather than parallel as in cowhide. The tensile strength of fish leather reaches
up to 90 Newtons (Leather dictionary, 2019)
The manufacturing of fish skin leather works with three aspects of sustainability: the
economic benefit of creating value from waste; the social benefit of reconciling sustainability
with fashionably exotic fish skin; and the environmental benefit of producing skins without
damaging endangering animals.
CREATING NEW JOB OPPORTUNITIES
Atlantic Leather creates blue tech and blue jobs in a remote coastal area that contributes to
the promotion of a sustainable ocean industry. A key challenge for these coastal areas is to
maintain the viability of the fisheries sector and to attract young people to work in it. Atlantic
Leather aims to preserve the rich cultural traditions that have been developed within the
Icelandic fishing industry when processing their fish leather. In recent history, fisheries and
fish processing jobs have been in decline in Iceland.
The tannery remains among the few that is holding its own in that respect. Atlantic Leather is
stationed in Sauðárkrókur, a small but vibrant community of roughly 3000 inhabitants,
located in the heart of Skagafjörður, Iceland. Its location in the North East of the island, with
fishing grounds located just off-shore puts it within reach of the fish-rich resource that
provides it with its mainstay commercial activity. Additionally, such proximity to the source
of the raw materials means that transportation to the point of manufacture is significantly
reduced.
In terms of promoting employment opportunities the tannery is also key when it comes to
providing blue collar jobs for coastal dwellers in the remote rural areas of fishing
communities whose subsistence existence benefits from the tannery’s activities. Aside from
tapping in to what these rural communities have to offer, the company contributes to the
country’s economy as it has become one of the important ways in which businesses create
improved livelihood, adds value within the supply chain system including the benefits that
job is creation, especially in remote and rural areas where such opportunities are not taken for
granted (Sigfusson, 2017).
Atlantic Leather’s products were voted best luxury leather at the Asia Pacific Leather Fair
(APLF) exhibition in Hong Kong in 2013 and the company was winner of tannery of the Year
– Europe Territory 2016 presented by the World Leather Magazine enhancing the company’s
reputation abroad. The award took in consideration how the tanning process was executed,
how the staff was treated, the factory’s surroundings and how the small community around
the factory is benefiting from it.
Another unique strength of the company is that as its international reputation has continued to
grow, as it makes a name for itself and continue to be considered one of the key players in the
fish leather industry not least because of the demand for its products by important
international fashion brands it has led to a growth in its network of distributors and agents.
Atlantic Leather products have been sold in European countries like Italy, France, Germany,
England, Finland, Scandinavian countries and India (atlantic.is, 2019). They have been
supplying fish skin leather to fashion and accessories brands such as Nike, Jimmy Choo,
Galliano, Dior, Prada, and Ferragamo.
The company’s vision and mission are to run a firm which is well organized in order to have
a safe workplace to keep the its staff happy, and thus produce quality leather and good service
around it. At the heart of its strategy is the desire to be a worthy part of the community of
Skagafjörður as well as to keep themselves as a leader company in the fish leather industry.
Having such a business philosophy results into not only having loyal and dedicated staff but
is in line with the company’s values of promoting social through inclusive jobs.
The network of raw material suppliers from the rural coastal communities are treated with the
same respect and consideration as its various local and international agents driven by the
firm’s commitment to offer unique and innovative products for the apparel industry, keep
researching and developing new methodologies in energy management, continue developing
and promoting a trustworthy reputation and image and keeping a financially reliable,
profitable and growing business. As part of its Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR),
Atlantic Leather has been involved in philanthropic projects in the community including
aiding Syrian refugees in the community.
Another feature of Atlantic Leather’s business portfolio is vertical integration in the form of
running a gift shop. Located in the front floor of the tannery, the fish leather outlet is on one
of the official tourist routes of Iceland. The store which doubles as a touristic museum opened
its doors in 2014 and recreates the traditional and contemporary tanning process of fish
leather and displays historical photos and implements (Deliso, 2015). In this way fish leather
is creating employment as well as value for the benefit of other sectors such as tourism.
However, like many other countries, Iceland has to be mindful not to overfish. With stock
sustainability and the ecological effects of fishing and management systems as core concerns,
Iceland has realised that becoming even more competitive in the global marketplace by using
fish by-products calls for a rethink in the way it has to manage its resources much more
sustainably. To this effect a number of initiatives and innovations are being embarked upon to
enhance sustainable fishing and overall use of the abundant fishing and fisheries resource.
An environment in which private enterprise, government led and government supported
projects are undertaking research continues to develop. In one example the government of
Iceland provides information, advise and support to ensure that the country makes
responsible use of its living marine resources by pursuing responsible and sustainable
harvesting strategies that are science based and in accordance with international
commitments (government.is). One other example is the emergence of institutes like the
Innovation Centre Iceland that wishes to promote the advancement of new ideas in the
Icelandic economy by supporting entrepreneurs and businesses that undertake projects that
include the fishing industry sector resulting in the creation of direct jobs for the business
owners and staff and in-direct employment opportunities in the supporting businesses and
supply chain.
CONCLUSIONS
This paper has explored the use of fish skin for the construction of garments and accessories
as an ancient tradition shared by coastal arctic societies. During the last century, Arctic
Indigenous peoples resisted both colonization and repression by humans and dramatic
ecological changes in seafood security. Fish skin craft became a way to communicate
traditional knowledge where practical benefits combined cultural resilience.
This paper has equally examined how the use of fish skin by Arctic Indigenous people has
since the 1990's been assimilated as an innovative sustainable material for fashion due to its
low environmental impact. Fish skins are sourced from the food industry, using waste.
Alternative materials like fish skin are increasingly seeing a resurgence as they require less
energy and resources to cultivate than conventional materials (Global Fashion Agenda, 2017)
Improved usage of so-called waste and other by-products could help meet increasing demand
for seafood without further stress to the ecosystem. Some “waste” products can have a very
high value if they are used. A more efficient use of resources will benefit society, the
environment and the industry’s bottom line (Bechtel, 2003).
Developing processes to transform post-consumer and industrial waste into new materials
takes the pressures off overconsumed materials. Recycling waste minimises landfill and
keeps resources in use for longer. By growing, sourcing and processing raw materials close to
home shortens transport routes, lowers carbon footprint and increases transparency across the
supply chain. Using local fish industry waste and nearshoring production can provide new
opportunities for the community whilst minimising environmental impact, both locally and
globally.
Before fashion started using fish skin to produce leather, fish skins used to be thrown away.
Now, they are not only a source of income to the local people, but no longer contributing to
biological waste.
The Icelandic fish leather model has proved reliable and sustainable over 20 years and this
model could be duplicated in seafood industries around the world (Sigfusson, T. 2017). This
would create new opportunities in coastal areas with a big demand of fish in their diet and
countries with a history of use of fish skin leather. Thus, indigenous fishing communities
which used to subsist and dress themselves with fish skin leather items like the indigenous
Ainu in Hokkaido, the Nanai in Siberia and Alaska’s Inuit will be able to reach agreements
with nearby fishing plants for the supply of fish skins to get back in their ancient crafts of fish
skin tanning and to develop of new productions that will positively implement their economy.
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
AINU
The Ainu or the Ezo in the historical Japanese texts, are an indigenous people of Japan
(Hokkaidō and formerly North-Eastern Honshū) and Russia (Sakhalin, the Kuril Islands,
Khabarovsk Krai and the Kamchatka Peninsula) The Ainu economy was based on hunting,
fishing and gathering. Ainu people made clothes by sewing together fish skins such as those
of salmon and trout.
ARCTIC
The Arctic is a cold climate area surrounding the North Pole. It is characterised by a long
winter, a short growing season and hostile nature. The Arctic encompasses the Arctic ocean
and an abundance of islands and well as the strips of Asia, Europe, and North America edging
the ocean. In some areas, the local economy includes traditional activities such as fishing,
hunting, herding and gathering, which provide local consumption and support vital cultural
traditions of Arctic peoples (IPCC 2014). The Arctic is the homeland of 40 different groups
of indigenous peoples.
BLUE ECONOMY
Blue economy is the sustainable use of ocean resources for economic growth, improved
livelihoods, and jobs while preserving the health of ocean ecosystem.
CULTURAL ASSIMILATION
Cultural assimilation is the process whereby individuals or groups of differing ethnic heritage
are absorbed into the dominant culture of a society. The process of assimilating involves
taking on the traits of the dominant culture to such a degree that the assimilating group
becomes socially indistinguishable from other members of the society. Although assimilation
may be compelled through force or undertaken voluntarily, it is rare for a minority group to
replace its previous cultural practices completely; religion, food preferences and aesthetics
are among the characteristics that tend to be most resistant to change.
GEOTHERMAL ENERGY
Geothermal energy is thermal energy generated and stored in the Earth. Due to the geological
location of Iceland (over a rift in continental plates), the high concentration of volcanoes in
the area is often an advantage in the generation of Geothermal energy the heating and making
of electricity.
HEZHE
Hezhe Ethnic Minority people settled in the drainage areas of Songhua River, Heilongjiang
River, and Wusuli River in Northeast China. The Hezhe’s ancestry can be traced to the
Xizhens, or called Suzhens or Jizhens, a race of the nomadic Tartar horsemen living in
northern China in the ancient times. Hezhe people made their clothing of fish skin or animal
skin.
INDIGENOUS ARCTIC PEOPLES
Indigenous Arctic peoples are closely linked to nature and subsistence resources. Their
material knowledge is rooted in centuries of keen observation and direct experience with the
environment. Their ability to adapt and accumulated knowledge built upon direct interaction
with the environment over long periods of time have enabled Arctic Native peoples to thrive
in these northern lands. Traditionally, they moved seasonally to hunting and fishing grounds
to support their subsistence ways of life. (Dorantes, 2012) Indigenous Arctic peoples
developed over centuries formidable skills, including a highly evolved design aesthetic,
creation and mastery of specialized tools, deep knowledge of the natural world, a nimble
ability to problem solve and adapt, the development of powerful support networks, and a
keen awareness of resources required to thrive in demanding ecosystems. (CIRI, 2015)
INDIGENOUS PEOPLES
Indigenous peoples identify themselves as such and they are those peoples who were
marginalised when the modern states were created. They are associated with specific
territories to which they trace their histories. (AHDR, 2014)
INUIT
The Inuit are a group of indigenous peoples inhabiting the Arctic regions of Greenland,
Canada and Alaska. Inuit are the descendants of the Thule people, who emerged from western
Alaska around 1000 CE. The semi-nomadic Inuit were fishers and hunters harvesting lakes,
seas, ice platforms and tundra. Inuit women made clothes and footwear from animal skins of
marine and land mammals for clothing including fish, sewn together using needles made
from animal bones and threads made from other animal products, such as sinew.
SAAMI
The Saami people are a Finno-Ugric people inhabiting Sápmi, which today encompasses
large northern parts of Norway and Sweden, northern parts of Finland, and the Murmansk
Oblast of Russia. Traditionally, the Saami have pursued a variety of livelihoods, including
coastal fishing, fur trapping, and sheep herding. In southern Lapland eel and burbot skins
have been used for the production of purses and bracelets.
YUP’IK
The Yupik are a group of indigenous or aboriginal peoples of western, southwestern, and
southcentral Alaska and the Russian Far East. They are related to the Inuit and Iñupiat
peoples. Yup'ik women made clothes and footwear from animal skins of marine and land
mammals for clothing including fish, sewn together using needles made from animal bones
and threads made from other animal products, such as sinew.
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