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Anti‐aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split‐face, randomized controlled trial

Wiley
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
Authors:

Abstract

Background: Skin aging has many manifestations such as wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and dryness. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, especially ultraviolet light-induced oxidative radicals, contribute to the etiology of aging. Human skin requires both water- and lipid-soluble nutrient components, including hydrophilic and lipophilic antioxidants. Vitamins C and E have important protective effects in the aging process and require exogenous supply. Raspberry leaf extracts contain botanical actives that have the potential to hydrating and moisturizing skin. Topical products with these ingredients may therefore combine to provide improved anti-aging effects over single ingredients. Objectives: To evaluate the anti-aging and brightening effects of an encapsulated serum containing vitamin C (20% w/w), vitamin E, and European raspberry (Rubus idaeus) leaf cell culture extract. Methods: Fifty female volunteers aged 30-65 years were allocated one capsule of serum for topical application on one side of the face for 2 months, in addition to self-use of facial skin products. Both test (treated) and contralateral (untreated) sides were dermatologically assessed after 4 and 8 weeks. Skin color (melanin index), elasticity, radiance, moisture, and water evaporation were measured by Mexameter MX18® , Cutometer® , Glossymeter GL200® , Corneometer CM825® , and Tewameter TM300® instruments, respectively (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH). Skin microtopography parameters, smoothness (SEsm), roughness (SEr), scaliness (SEsc), and wrinkles (SEw), were measured by Visioscan® VC98 USB (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH), and gross lifting effects were measured by VECTRA® H1 (Canfield Scientific), and adverse reactions and satisfaction were also assessed. Results: Skin color, elasticity, and radiance were significantly improved. The smoothness, scaliness, and wrinkles were also revealed significant improvement. Mild adverse reactions were tingling and tightness. Conclusions: The vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract serum has anti-aging and brightening effects of skin.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;00:1–6. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jocd
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  1© 2020 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.
Received: 4 Januar y 2020 
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  Accepted: 9 January 2020
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13305
ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTION
Anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment
containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture
extract: A split-face, randomized controlled trial
Pattarawan Rattanawiwatpong MD1| Rungsima Wanitphakdeedecha MD, MA, MSc2|
Akkarach Bumrungpert PhD1| Mart Maiprasert MD1
1Master of S cience Program i n Anti-A ging
& Regener ative Me dicine, College of
Integrative Medicine, D hurak ij Pundit
University, Bang kok, Tha iland
2Depar tment of Dermatology, Faculty
of Medicine Sirir aj Hospital, Mahidol
University, Bang kok, Tha iland
Correspondence
Rungsim a Wanitph akdeed echa, D epar tment
of Dermatology, Faculty of Me dicine S iriraj
Hospit al, Mahidol Universit y, Bangkok
10700, Thailand.
Email: rungsima.wan@mahidol.ac.th
Funding information
This stu dy was funded by Ma x Biocare Pt y
Ltd, Australia .
Abstract
Background: Skin aging has many manifestations such as wrinkles, uneven skin tone,
and dryness. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, especially ultraviolet light-induced
oxidative radicals, contribute to the etiology of aging. Human skin requires both
water- and lipid-soluble nutrient components, including hydrophilic and lipophilic an-
tioxidants. Vitamins C and E have important protective effects in the aging process
and require exogenous supply. Raspberry leaf extracts contain botanical actives that
have the potential to hydrating and moisturizing skin. Topical products with these in-
gredients may therefore combine to provide improved anti-aging effects over single
ingredients.
Objectives: To evaluate the anti-aging and brightening effects of an encapsulated
serum containing vitamin C (20% w/w), vitamin E, and European raspberry (Rubus
idaeus) leaf cell culture extract.
Methods: Fifty female volunteers aged 30-65 years were allocated one capsule
of serum for topical application on one side of the face for 2 months, in addition
to self-use of facial skin products. Both test (treated) and contralateral (untreated)
sides were dermatologically assessed after 4 and 8 weeks. Skin color (melanin index),
elasticity, radiance, moisture, and water evaporation were measured by Mexameter
MX18®, Cutometer®, Glossymeter GL200®, Corneometer CM825®, and Tewameter
TM300® instruments, respectively (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH). Skin mi-
crotopography parameters, smoothness (SEsm), roughness (SEr), scaliness (SEsc),
and wrinkles (SEw), were measured by Visioscan® VC98 USB (Courage + Khazaka
Electronic GmbH), and gross lifting effects were measured by VECTRA® H1 (Canfield
Scientific), and adverse reactions and satisfaction were also assessed.
Results: Skin color, elasticity, and radiance were significantly improved. The smooth-
ness, scaliness, and wrinkles were also revealed significant improvement. Mild ad-
verse reactions were tingling and tightness.
Conclusions: The vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract serum
has anti-aging and brightening effects of skin.
KEY WORDS
antioxidant, raspberr y leaf cell culture ex trac t, skin aging, skin radiance, vitamin C, vitamin E
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   RATTANAWIWATPONG eT Al.
1 | INTRODUCTION
Facial skin aging is one of the most prevalent cosmetic concerns to
women. The many noticeable manifestations such as wrinkles, sag-
ging, uneven skin tone, and dull and dry skin can significantly impact
self-esteem and social relations.1 Both intrinsic and extrinsic fac-
tors are involved in skin aging; however, photoaging is an import-
ant cumulative factor.2 Nowadays, there are many modalities that
can improve the condition of aging skin and address the underly-
ing mechanisms of cellular and molecular damage. Treatment with
topical antioxidants represents a noninvasive approach that treats
the underlying mechanisms of cellular and molecular damage from
oxidative free radicals. Other agents include topical cell growth reg-
ulators and retinoids, which are used alongside the more invasive
procedures such as chemical peeling, ablative and nonablative laser
photo-rejuvenation, radiofrequency (RF) therapy, dermal fillers, and
botulinum toxin.3
Human skin has both water- and lipid-soluble compartments
with their respective bioactive antioxidants. Many of these, includ-
ing vitamins C and E, are not able to be produced endogenously
and so must be provided externally or through diet. L-ascorbic
acid is the most abundant antioxidant in the skin and is the bi-
ologically active form of vitamin C. The maximum concentration
of topical L-ascorbic acid for percutaneous absorption is 20%.4
Vitamin C has many anti-aging skin effec ts, not only as a potent
antioxidant and mediator of photo-damage and melanogenesis,
but also through its roles in supporting collagen biosynthesis and
stability, which provide renewal and anti-inflammatory effects.5-7
The lipid-soluble properties of vitamin E, which suppor ts skin lev-
els of tocopherols, allow it to pass down to the deepest layers of
the stratum corneum via sebaceous gland secretions, to reside
within cell membranes and protect them from oxidative stress.8
Furthermore, vitamin E can reduce hyperpigmentation induced by
ultraviolet light.9
Vitamins C and E work synergistically in quenching free radicals.
Vitamin C regenerates the oxidized form of vitamin E to its reduced
form. Topi cal use of 15% L-asco rbic acid combined with 1% alpha-to-
copherol has been shown to provide significantly more protection
against sunburn cell formation compared with either L-ascorbic acid
or 1% alpha-tocopherol alone.10
Raspberry (Rubus ideaus) leaf cell culture extract has many po-
tent antioxidants able to protect cells from oxidative stress. The ex-
tract also has important lipid component of epidermal hydrolipidic
film, which can protect skin from transepidermal water loss and in-
duce the expression of genes involved in molecular pathways that
support skin hydration and moisturization, such as hyaluronic acid
synthesis.11,12
To provide maximal anti-aging and brightening effects to facial
skin, topical products may combine more than one active ingredi-
ent in one formulation. The aim of this study was to evaluate the
synergistic anti-aging and brightening effects of topical vit amin C,
vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract on aging facial skin
in women. There have been no previous published studies that have
assessed the synergistic effect of these three compounds in an Asian
population.
2 | MATERIALS AND METHODS
The study was conducted in a group of 50 Thai women with
Fitzpat rick sk in typ e III or IV, mea n age 47 year s, re cru ited throu gh
advertising and electronic media. Women showing the presence
of facial wrinkles, skin sagging, skin dryness, or uneven skin color
were included in the study. Subjec ts were excluded if they were
under a physician's care or were taking any medication that might
interfere with the test results; were using nonsteroidal anti-in-
flammatory drugs; had a histor y of hypersensitivit y to cosmetics;
showed signs of skin infection or inflammation; or suffered from
diseases that would increase the risk associated with participa-
tion or that would interfere with the results. Women who were
pregnant and lactating or intending to become pregnant during the
study period were also excluded. Fur ther exclusion criteria related
to skin treatments included the use of oral retinoids, dermal fill-
ers, RF therapy, micro-focused ultrasound therapy (in the previous
year); botulinum toxin injections (in the previous 8 months); had
laser resurfacing (in the previous 6 weeks); or chemical peels or
dermabrasion (in the previous 2 weeks). Subjects were asked to
abs tain from changi ng any f ac ial skin p roduct s for at least 2 we ek s
prior to the study and nu tr it io na l su pp le me nt s for at le as t 1 month
prior to the study.
The treatment serum (Rejuvenating Capsules, Antioxidant and
Collagen Booster Serum; supplied by Belmarama, a Division of Max
Bioc ar e Pty Ltd .; man uf act ur ed by Catal en t In c) conta in ed the ascor-
bic acid 20%, tocopher yl acetate 1%, and Rubus idaeus leaf cell cul-
ture 0.0005%. Subjects were advised to apply one capsule to the
random side of the face every night for 8 weeks. The contralateral
side of the face was left untreated (control side). Facial skin products
based on participants’ daily self-use were allowed on both sides, and
per their usual routine.
Skin parameters were measured at baseline and after 4 and
8 weeks of test product use by the dermatologist in a single-blinded
fashion. Subject s were required to rinse their face thoroughly with
a neutral lotion and acclimatized to the ambient environment for at
least 15 minutes before measurements.
In vivo skin parameters were evaluated as following methods:
• Cutometer® dual MPA 580 (Courage + Khazaka Electronic
GmbH) to determine skin color using melanin index parameter
(Mexameter MX18®), elasticity using R2 parameter (Cutometer®),
rad iance usin g gloss DSC va lue param eter (Glossy meter GL200®),
moisture (Corneometer CM825®), and transepidermal water loss,
TEWL, (Tewameter TM300®) on both upper cheeks in well-de-
fined measurement locations.
• Visioscan® VC98 USB (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH)
to determine skin microtopography using the SELS (Surface
Evaluation of the Living Skin) parameters—smoothness (SEsm),
  
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RATTANAWIWATPONG e T Al.
roughness (SEr), scaliness (SEsc), and wrinkles (SEw) on both outer
corner of the eyes in well-defined measurement locations.
VECTR A® H1 (C anf iel d Sci ent ifi c) to det erm ine gros s/ vis ual lif ting
effect by measuring the distance between the upper and lower
part of the face (from the hairline to the lower limit of the face
corresponding to the mandible) in two points on both sides: me-
dial and lateral canthus.
In addition, after 4 and 8 weeks of product use, the volunteers
were assessed the adverse reactions by the physician and were
asked to do satisfaction questionnaire regarding the anti-aging ef-
fects and the serum itself.
Statistical analysis was performed using GraphPad Prism
v8.3.0 and SPSS v26. The Shapiro-Wilk test was used to deter-
mine the normality of the data distribution. The repeated mea-
sures ANOVA with Bonferroni correction and Friedman's multiple
comparisons test was used to assess changes of normally distrib-
uted variables and non-normally distributed groups, respectively.
Sample comparisons for TEWL were performed using the Kruskal-
Wallis rank sum test, as the data were unable to be adjusted for
multiple comparisons. Differences between treatment and non-
treatment groups were considered biologically significant for P-
values of .05 or less.
This study was approved by the Ethical Review Committee for
Human Research, College of Integrative Medicine, Dhurakij Pundit
University (003/62EX), and research protocols were conducted in
agreement with the Declaration of Helsinki on human subjects. All
subjects were informed and gave their consent before enrollment
(clinical trial registration: TCTR20190418004, www.clini caltr ials.in.th).
3 | RESULTS
Skin was found to be significantly lighter in color and higher in elas-
ticity on the treated side, compared to the untreated side, after
8 weeks of product use (Figure 1A,B), whereas skin radiance im-
proved significantly after both 4 and 8 weeks of use (Figure 1C).
No significant changes in skin moisture level (P > .9999) or TEWL
(P > .9999) between treatment or control sides were observed
(Table 1).
Skin topography assessment s revealed statistically significant
improvements in skin smoothness, scaliness, and wrinkles after both
4 and 8 weeks of use (Figure 2A-C). However, skin roughness was
higher on the treated side compared to the untreated side on the 8th
week (Figure 2D). There was no significant improvement on gross
lifting effect (P > .9999, Table 1).
The serum was well tolerated after application. No adverse reac-
tion in the form of redness, swelling, dryness, desquamation, itching,
or burning was observed. Eight percent of subjects reported mild
tightness (n = 4) in the 4th week, which decreased to four percent
(n = 2) in the 8th week. Thirty-eight (76%) subjects had mild and
transient tingling (mostly <1 minute) in the 4th week and reduced to
twenty-five (50%) in the 8th week.
4 | DISCUSSION
Skin aging, one of the most concerned problem in women, can
be noticed as wrinkles, sagging, uneven skin tone, and dull or dry
skin.1 The causes of skin aging can be categorized into intrinsic/
chronological and extrinsic factors. Extrinsic factors especially
ultraviolet are superimposed on intrinsic factors and account for
most age-associated changes in skin appearance. Ultraviolet irra-
diation causes the aging skin by producing free radicals and re-
active oxygen species (ROS), which interferes collagen synthesis,
degrades collagen and elastin, and damages lipid component of
membranes leading to ceramide and arachidonic acid release caus-
ing more water loss and more inflammation, respectively.13 There
was previous study showed that topical antioxidants reduce oxida-
tive damages, the cause of aging skin.8-10,12,14,1 5 To provide maxi-
mum anti-aging ef fect to the skin, topical products may combine
various ingredients. The present evaluation revealed improve-
ments in skin aging, pigment appearance, and skin integrity that
were in agreement with the synergistic, anti-aging effects of topi-
cal vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract on
Asian skin types.
The product was found to have a measurable reduction in mela-
nin index. Vitamin C is known to decrease melanin production5 and
topical vitamin E is effective in reducing UV-induced hyperpigmen-
tation,9 with the combination of both being more pronounced.10 An
in vivo study by Espinal-Perez et al16 found that topical L-ascorbic
acid (5%) decreased the melanin index after 3 months of treatment,
whereas a study by Xu et al17 involving Chinese women found that
topical L–ascorbic acid (23.8%) combined with a chemical penetration
enhancer with iontophor esi s improve d skin lightness from the se con d
week. This study confirmed the whitening effect of the serum. There
was improvement in the melanin index at the 8th week after serum
use which was earlier than the effect seen by Espinal-Perez et al, but
later than that of Xu et al Because of dif ferent parameters used, we
can not dire ct ly compare the results. But , the reason might be that the
form er use d lowe r concent ration of as corbi c ac id while the latt er used
iontophoresis for enhancing penetration of vitamin C into the skin.
The present study found increased R2 ratio, representing increased
skin ela stici ty, which is in acc ordan ce wit h ot her stu di es.1 2,14,18,19 Three
active ingredients of the serum are antioxidants, so to some degree,
this serum can protect collagen and elastin degradation from gener-
ated reac tive oxygen species, and therefore, the increased elasticity
may represent a preservation effect. Furthermore, vit amin C is also
necessary for collagen biosynthesis and stability,4,6 and raspberry
(Rubus ideaus) leaf cell culture extract can induce the expression of
genes involved in collagen and elastin.12 All of these effects together
improve skin elasticity. Both the lightening effect and the elasticity ef-
fect of the serum may have also combined to improve the surface in-
tegrity of skin and its ability to reflect white light, which would explain
the increase in the gloss DSC value.
We obser ved no significant improvement of skin moisture or
TEWL. This is consistent with the in vivo study by Xu et al and
Campos et al17, 20 This might have been due to the acidity of
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ascorbic acid, which may have caused some shedding of epidermal
cells and loss of skin surface moisture. Tito et al12 found that an
oil-soluble extract of Rubus idaeus leaves enhanced skin moisture
measured by Corneometer CM850® but the concentration of the
extract was much higher than that in our study. Moreover, Tito et
al12 studied in women with dry to very dry skin who applied the
extract twice a day, whereas the subjects in our study had suf-
ficiently moisturized skin (due to additional self-use of standard
topical products), live in a tropical climate with high humidity, and
applied the serum once a day.
Skin topography parameters of skin smoothness, scaliness, and
wrinkles in our study showed significant improvement s. These are in
agreement with the skin elasticity and DSC gloss values. However,
skin roughness gave the opposite result, which was unexpected. A
possible explanation for this might be that the SEr parameter is cal-
culated from the number of pixels which have a smaller gray level
than the threshold of SEr, average number of wrinkles, and width
and height of the histogram of gray level distribution. SEr is inversely
propor tional to number of wrinkles but direc tly propor tional to the
number of pixels which have a smaller gray level than the threshold.
FIGURE 1 Mean melanin index (A),
R2 ratio (B), and gloss DSC value (C)
at baseline, 4, and 8 wk. P-value < .05,
determined as significant value
150
170
190
210
230
250
270
290
Baseline 4 weeks8 weeks
Melanin index (AU)
Treated side Untreated side
0.5
0.6
0.7
0.8
Baseline 4 weeks8 weeks
R2 ratio
Treated side Untreated side
2
3
4
5
6
7
Baseline 4 weeks8 weeks
Gloss DSC value (AU)
Treated side Untreated side
**
* P = 0.02
(A)
***
*** P < 0.0001
***
*** P < 0.0001
(B)
(C)
TABLE 1 The results of skin parameters
Parameters
Treated side Untreated side
P1P2Baseline 4 wk 8 wk Baseline 4 wk 8 wk
R2 ratio 0.63 ± 0.06 0.68 ± 0.07 0.72 ± 0.06 0.65 ± 0.10 0.64 ± 0.10 0.64 ± 0.10 .07 <.0001
Melanin index 226.7 ± 42.4 213.7 ± 39.4 209.3 ± 41.2 223.1 ± 42.6 222.3 ± 44.9 225.4 ± 46.6 .557 <.0001
Gloss DSC value 4.09 ± 1.52 4.90 ± 1.65 5.08 ± 1.61 4.41 ± 1.58 4. 31 ± 1.49 4.41 ± 1.71 .0221 .0201
Moisture level 73.04 ± 9.35 74.33 ± 8.46 73.77 ± 9.75 72.09 ± 9.29 73.77 ± 8.13 73.62 ± 10.06 >.9999 >.9999
TEWL (g /h/m2) 11.48 ± 2.38 12.45 ± 2.05 11.79 ± 2.15 11.10 ± 2.04 12.87 ± 2.09 11.66 ± 2.45 >.9999 >.9999
SELS parameters
SEsm 178.7 ± 28.2 160.9 ± 24.2 154.4 ± 23.8 171.3 ± 30.4 173.0 ± 34.5 171.8 ± 31.3 .0233 <.0001
SEr 2.98 ± 1.02 2.51 ± 0.80 2.27 ± 0.78 2.69 ± 0.90 2 .74 ± 0.93 2.82 ± 0.92 .206 <.0001
SEsc 0.67 ± 0.11 0.58 ± 0.12 0.55 ± 0.11 0.67 ± 0.13 0.66 ± 0.12 0.68 ± 0.13 .0317 <.0001
SEw 67.96 ± 15.64 58.46 ± 13.41 57.21 ± 12.79 64.82 ± 14.66 65.59 ± 14.93 66.39 ± 14.77 .001 <.0001
Gross lif ting effect
Medial canthus 164.5 ± 7.4 164.7 ± 7.1 164.7 ± 6.6 164.7 ± 7.3 164.8 ± 7.2 16 4.6 ± 6.7 >.9999 >.9999
Lateral canthus 153.9 ± 7.3 154.1 ± 7.4 153. 3 ± 6.5 153. 6 ± 7.3 153.7 ± 7.2 153.4 ± 6.2 >.9999 >.9999
Abbreviations: P1, P-value at 4 wk (comparison to control); P2, P-value at 8 wk (comparison to control); P value < .05 considered significant; R2 ratio,
skin elas ticit y; SEr, skin roughness; SEsc , skin sc aliness; SEsm, skin smoothness; Sew, wrinkles; TE WL, transepidermal water loss (g/h/m2).
  
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RATTANAWIWATPONG e T Al.
So, it might be that the elasticity improvement had more effect than
the number of wrinkles, such as a tightening effect. However, the
elasticity improvement of skin was not sufficient to see a gross con-
tour lifting effect.
In relation to tolerability, the present study showed that the ad-
verse effects of the serum were relatively mild and more tolerable
after 1 month. Regarding this limitation, this study may be yet be
inferred to middle-aged Thai or Asian women with Fitzpatrick skin
type III or IV.
5 | CONCLUSIONS
This present study demonstrated that an encapsulated serum con-
taining vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberr y leaf cell culture extract
can improve most signs of aging skin, namely skin darkening, elas-
ticity, radiance, smoothness, scaliness, and wrinkles. However, the
elasticity improvement was not sufficient to cause gross lifting ef-
fects. Furthermore, the serum was well tolerated.
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
We would like to express appreciation to all volunteers, who
kindly gave excellent cooperation. Special thanks to Ms Phassara
Klamsawat, Ms Phonsuk Yamlexnoi, and Mr Panyawat Wongjaruwat
for their assistance in recruiting subjects and managing the
database.
CONFLICT OF INTERESTS
No conflict of interests has been declared.
ORCID
Rungsima Wanitphakdeedecha https://orcid.
org/0000-0002-3926-2193
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FIGURE 2 Mean SEsm (A), SEsc (B),
SEw (C), and SEr (D) values at baseline,
4, and 8 wk. SEsm and SEr values are
inversely propor tional to skin smoothness
and skin roughness, respectively. P-
value < .05, determined as significant
value
100
120
140
160
180
200
220
Baseline 4 weeks8 weeks
SEsm
Treated side Untreated side
(A)
***
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0.9
Baseline 4 weeks8 weeks
SEsc
Treated side Untreated side
(B)
***
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Baseline 4 weeks8 weeks
SEw
Treated side Untreated side
(C)
***
1
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Baseline 4 weeks8 weeks
SEr
Treated side Untreated side
***
(D)
** P = 0.02
*** P < 0.0001
**
** P = 0.03
*** P < 0.0001
**
** P = 0.001
*** P < 0.0001
*** P < 0.0001
**
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   RATTANAWIWATPONG eT Al.
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How to cite this article: Rattanawiwatpong P,
Wanitphakdeedecha R, Bumrungpert A, Maiprasert M.
Anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment
containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell
culture ex trac t: A split-face, randomized controlled trial.
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;00:1–6. https ://doi.org/10.1111 /
jocd.13305
... These parameters have been little studied in previous studies in patients with AD. In healthy individuals, it was observed that skin barrier and microtopography differed between anatomical regions [16]. In patients with AD, the daily topical application of a nanoemulsion containing cholesterol derivatives of ceramide-like lipoamino acids during 6 weeks decreased scaliness and smoothness. ...
... The increased surface indicates skin alteration in AD. Flexural eczema also presented higher contrast, implying poor skin quality, and higher variance, meaning high roughness [16,18]. ...
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Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease whose incidence is increasing. Skin barrier dysfunction plays an important role in this disease. It has been observed that AD patients have higher transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and lower stratum corneum hydration (SCH); however, there is little information about skin microtopography in this pathology. The objective of this study is to evaluate skin barrier dysfunction and structural changes in patients with AD. Methods: A cross-sectional study was conducted including patients with AD. Parameters of skin barrier function were measured (TEWL, temperature, erythema, pH, skin hydration, elasticity) and also other topographical parameters (scaliness, wrinkles, smoothness, surface, contrast, variance) in both healthy skin and flexural eczematous lesions. Results: A total of 32 patients with AD were included in the study. Flexural eczematous lesions had higher erythema (369.12 arbitrary unit (AU) vs. 223.89 AU, p < 0.001), higher TEWL (27.24 g/h/m² vs. 13.51 g/h/m², p < 0.001), lower SCH (20.3 AU vs. 31.88 AU, p < 0.001) and lower elasticity (0.56% vs. 0.65%, p = 0.05). Regarding topographic parameters, flexural eczematous lesions presented greater scaliness (5.57 SEsc vs. 0.29 SEsc, p = 0.02), greater smoothness (316.98 SEsm vs. 220.95 SEsm p < 0.001), more wrinkles (73.33 SEw vs. 62.15 SEw p = 0.03), greater surface area (836.14% vs. 696.31%. p < 0.001), greater contrast (2.02 AU vs. 1.31 AU p = 0.01), greater variance (6.22 AU vs. 4.96 AU p < 0.001) and a lower number of cells (105.5 vs. 132.5 p < 0.001) compared to unaffected healthy skin, reflecting a decrease in skin quality in AD patients. Conclusions: Both skin barrier function and skin topography are damaged in patients with AD, with differences between healthy skin and flexural eczema.
... Nowadays, skin aging has become a matter of concern to people, particularly women. 1 The aging process is marked by an accumulation of macromolecular disruption within the cell, declining regenerative capabilities of tissues, and inability to restore physiological integrity. 2 The most observable manifestation of skin aging is a cumulative change regarding skin structure, drying skin, dysfunctional and decline in skin appearance such as increased wrinkles, weakness, elastosis, telangiectasia, and inappropriate skin pigmentation3 and increased risk of skin diseases. ...
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Background: Nanotechnology has the potential to produce innovations in drug formulation and drug delivery systems. Nanocosmetics and nanocosmeceuticals containing natural ingredients have been proven to overcome the weaknesses of traditional cosmetics and also add value to their formulations.Objective: This study aims to analyze the application of nanocosmeceutical technology based on ethanol extract of butterfly pea flower (Clitoria Ternatea L) in the preparation of nanoemulsion spray as a skin antiaging agent for the growth of collagen, elastin and extracellular matrix.Methods Method used true experimental design with posttest control group with random allocation to model mice given UVB radiation. The levels of collagen, elastin, and cellular matrix extract were assessed using Verhoef staining and observed by two experts,Results: The results of this research show that a nanoemulsion spray preparation of ethanol extract of butterfly pea flower (Clitoria Ternatea L) improves skin damage in aging model mice by increasing the production of extra cellular matrix, collagen and elastin. Conclusion: The preparation of butterfly pea flower flower extract nanoemulsion sprey (Clitoria Ternate L) has antiaging, collagen and elastin formation activities
... Berries have attracted attention as health food for humans because they contain many polyphenols, vitamins, minerals, fiber and health benefits 1,2 . Recently, clinical trials using raspberries have been conducted in the field of beauty, showing that facial skin color, elasticity, radiance, smoothness, scaliness, and wrinkles in 50-middle-aged women significantly improved 3 . Large-scale clinical trials are required to demonstrate the effects of health foods on humans and the preventive administration of beauty products on adverse events. ...
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Purpose Blackberries are rich in polyphenols and are a human health food continuously consumed to improve health and reduce diseases caused by aging. Herein, we evaluated the effects of daily blackberry administration before and after transient cerebral ischemia in gerbils. Methods Blackberry extract (BBE) was orally administered twice a day for two weeks to protect against ischemic events during continuous administration. On the seventh day after administration, the bilateral common carotid arteries were transiently occluded for 5 min. To verify its therapeutic effect, BBE was administered after ischemia using a similar protocol without pre-administration. In both experiments, the number of viable neurons in the CA1 region of the hippocampus was assessed seven days after ischemic treatment. Results The number of neurons in the group treated with BBE before ischemia was higher than that in the group treated with distilled water (p = 0.0601), and similar to that in the control group. In the BBE administration experiments after ischemia, the number of neurons was significantly reduced compared to that in the control group (p < 0.0001). Conclusions Continuous BBE intake is expected to prevent or ameliorate ischemic events such as transient cerebral ischemia. Key words Plant Extracts Blackberries; Ischemia; Brain; Neurons; Gerbillinae
... 3 Uneven skin tone, wrinkles, and dryness are some of the common manifestations of skin aging. 6 In the present study, most dermatologists felt that a disturbed circadian rhythm could have led to issues like hyperpigmentation and wrinkles in most of the patients. ...
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Background: The skin plays different functions during the day and night to adapt to the changing environments. Various specialized creams are available to meet these skincare needs. The present study was conducted to explore the perspective of Indian dermatologists and cosmetologists on skin’s circadian rhythm and assess the effectiveness of a particular day and night cream formulation. Methods: A non-interventional, questionnaire-based study was conducted as part of a survey series on multiple dermatology products across India. Every month, a product-specific survey link was released to these registered doctors, and each doctor could take up to 10 surveys for a maximum of two products. A total of 379 healthcare professionals (HCPs) took the survey on the day and night cream and reported experiences of 2085 patients regarding the use of these products. Results: The doctors believed that for majority of the patients (1997, 97%), required day and night cream to maintain their skin’s circadian rhythm. Most patients (1440, 70%) were compliant with day and night care cream regimens. Most patients (966, 47%) were highly satisfied with the use of day and night cream, with majority of the patients (1028, 49.4%) experiencing considerable reduction in dark spots and uneven skin tone. Most patients (971, 47%) felt that the application of day and night cream left their skin moisturized and rejuvenated. Conclusions: The use of day and night cream improved skin condition and hydration, addressing circadian rhythm imbalance. Indian HCPs understand the impact of skin circadian rhythm imbalance and promote a comprehensive skincare regimen to patients.
... Diets rich in vitamin C and lycopene prevent heart diseases due to the reduction of bad cholesterol 43 . In addition, both vitamin C and lycopene are considered anti-ageing, which reduces age-related diseases 44 . It has also been found that people who receive sufficient amounts of vitamin C and lycopene in their diet are less prone to cancer and infectious diseases than others 45 . ...
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Greenhouses located at high latitudes and in cloudy areas often experience a low quality and quantity of light, especially during autumn and winter. This low daily light integral (DLI) reduces production rate, quality, and nutritional value of many crops. This study was conducted on Sakhiya RZ F1 tomato plants to evaluate the impact of LED lights on the growth and nutritional value of tomatoes in a greenhouse with low daily light due to cloudy weather. The treatments included LED growth lights in three modes: top lighting, intra-canopy lighting, and combined top and intra-canopy lighting. The results showed that although the combined top and intra-canopy lighting reached the maximum increase in tomato yield, exposure to intra-canopy LED lighting alone outperformed in tomato fruit yield increase (28.46%) than exposure to top LED lighting alone (12.12%) when compared to no supplemental lighting during the entire production year. Intra-canopy exposure demonstrated the highest increase in tomato lycopene (31.3%), while top and intra-canopy lighting exhibited the highest increase in vitamin C content (123.4%) compared to the control. The LED light treatment also had a very positive effect on the expression of genes responsible for metabolic cycles, including Psy1, LCY-β, and VTC2 genes, which had collinearity with the increase in tomato fruit production.
... It has been reported that the topical administration of vitamin C has antiaging and brightening effects on the skin. [33] Similarly, vitamin D3 has been recognized for its potential antiaging and photoprotective effects, primarily as a result of its anti-inflammatory properties and its efficacy in inhibiting DNA damage. [34] These findings may differ from our research results, but we consider them reasonable given the primary focus of our study is on circulating micronutrients. ...
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Facial aging involves a continuous sequence of complex, interrelated events that impact numerous facial tissues. The aim of the study was to elucidate the casual relationship between circulating micronutrients and risk of facial aging. A two-sample Mendelian randomization analysis was performed using genetic data from genome-wide association studies. The inverse-variance weighted method is used for causal effect estimation, and additional tools such as Mendelian randomization-Egger, weighted median, simple mode, and weighted mode were used to refine the analysis. We conducted an in-depth examination of the correlation between several micronutrient blood levels and the risk of facial aging, and identified 3 key micronutrients (selenium, carotene, and iron) that may have a significant impact on skin health. Inverse-variance weighted results indicate that selenium levels were positively correlated with the risk of facial aging (odds ratio [OR] 1.005, P = .027), while a negative causal effect of carotene (OR 0.979, P = .024) and iron (OR 0.976, P = .009) on age-related facial alterations was observed. This study offers a new and insightful perspective on the current understanding of antiaging strategies, particularly the importance of appropriate consumption of essential micronutrients to maintain healthy skin condition.
... Berdasarkan hasil uji pada 50 wanita Thailand dengan usia rata rata 47 tahun, diketahui bahwa ekstrak kultur sel daun raspberry yang dipadukan dengan vitamin c dan vitamin e memiliki kemampuan memperbaiki tanda tanda penuaan kulit seperti mencerahkan kulit, meningkatkan elastisitas dan kekenyalan kulit, dan menghaluskan kulit. Sehingga tanaman raspberry ini memiliki potensi sebagai anti aging yang baik (Rattanawiwatpong et al., 2020). ...
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This study aims to determine the availability and quantity of literature regarding the use of antiaging plants obtained from the Google Scholar, Scopus, Pubmed and IPB Scientific Repository databases. The research design used is a literature review research design or literature review. Data collection techniques were carried out through literature searches on 4 different databases, namely: Google Scholar, Scopus, PubMed and IPB Scientific Repository. The results showed that there were 999 articles on the use of antiaging plants in the Google Scholar database, 200 articles on Scopus, 2,371 articles on PubMed, and 661 articles on the IPB Scientific Repository, bringing the total to 4,231 articles. After going through a complete process of screening and evaluating articles, 24 articles were obtained that met the search criteria. Based on the complete review process of the 24 articles, 24 types of plants were obtained that have the potential to be used as anti-aging, namely moringa, rosella flowers, shallots, purslane, green tea, nutmeg, arabica coffee, black soybeans, pagoda, patchouli, Dayak onions, potatoes, aloe vera, kaffir lime, yellow passion fruit, malaka, corn, raspberries, wungu, jernang rattan, pegagan, merbau, grapes, and pineapple.
... Vitamin C is a bioactive substance, (5R)-[(1S)-1,2-Dihydroxyethyl]-3-4-dihydroxyfuran-2(5H) formula needed by the human body that acts as an antioxidant that effectively overcomes the effects of free radicals that can damage cells in the body [1] . Vitamin C is very important in the body as an antioxidant because it can protect cells from causing cancer [1,2] . Vitamin C is an antioxidant that contains ascorbic acid, which is easily oxidized to dehydroascorbic acid, which can inhibit oxidation reactions. ...
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Vitamin C is one of the substances needed by the human body. It acts as an antioxidant that effectively overcomes the effects of free radicals that damage cells in the body. However, vitamin C easily oxidizes, so innovation is needed to coat (encapsulate) vitamin C in the form of capsules as a drug delivery system. This research aims to synthesize carboxymethyl cellulose from the skin of Nipah Mangrove (Nypa fruticans) and use it to encapsulate vitamin C. The microencapsulation method was carried out by mixing 3 g of carrageenan-CMC mixture with variations in the ratio of 1:0, 1:0.5, and 1:1 (%b/b). The encapsulated small beads were extruded in 200 mL of 2M KCl-CaCl solution. The microencapsulant was drained and continued with the crosslinking stage using Glutaraldehyde (GA) 1%. In this in vitro oral simulation study, the encapsulation ratio that produced the best treatment with the highest percentage of drug solubility in the intestine was the ratio (1:0.5), followed by (1:1) and the smallest (1:0) with percentage values of 15.42; 14.06; and 1.67 percent, respectively. Our findings in the study successfully synthesized CMC, Encapsulated Vitamin C, and simulated its release.
... Employing methods from randomized controlled trials to blinded assessments ensures the reliability of results, advancing the scientific foundation for skincare development and validating efficacy claims. 19,[31][32][33][34] This study highlights the antioxidant potential of combining Andrographis paniculata, Syzygium aromaticum, and Pogostemon cablin in anti-aging products. However, due to the variety of free License radicals, antioxidant activity should ideally be evaluated using multiple methods, such as 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6sulfonic acid) (ABTS) and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), to provide a more comprehensive understanding of the antioxidant potential. ...
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Oxidative stress is closely associated with the aging process, prompting an investigation into the therapeutic potential of Andrographis paniculata extract, Syzygium aromaticum oil, and Pogostemon cablin oil, herbs known for their widespread medicinal use.This study aimed to assess the antioxidant properties of skincare products, including facial wash, moisturizer, and serum formulated with these oild and extract. Utilizing the DPPH assay to evaluate antioxidant activity, we found that all products displayed antioxidant activity, with the serum showing the greatest efficacy (IC50value of 2792.17 μg/mL) compared to the moisturizer (IC25value of 2541.73μg/mL) and facial wash (IC25value of 2752.01μg/mL). Notably, all products (with active ingredients) significantly enhanced radical scavenging activity over the product bases (products without active ingredients) at 5000 μg/mL, with percentage improvement as follows: serum 53.48 ± 1.50%, moisturizer 39.5 ± 2.18%, and facial wash 7.23 ± 2.20%. These findings suggest that facial wash, moisturizer, and serum containing the combination of Andrographis paniculata extract, Syzygium aromaticum oil, and Pogostemon cablin oil have the potential to become effective anti-aging treatments in the cosmetic market due to their antioxidant properties. Further studies are needed to assess their mechanism of action as anti-aging cosmetics
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Type 2 diabetes mellitus (T2DM) is a chronic metabolic disease that is escalating globally and imposing a substantial burden on patients and society. Given the increasing prevalence of T2DM and the inadequacy of conventional therapeutic options, plant extracts have garnered significant attention as natural medicines. These extracts primarily encompass polyphenols, alkaloids, and polysaccharides. This review assesses the efficacy of these plant extracts in preventing and treating T2DM and its complications by collecting and analyzing relevant clinical trials and human studies to elucidate their mechanisms of action. Additionally, it highlights the role of plant extracts as adjunctive therapies in diabetes management while underscoring their promising applications in clinical practice. However, caution should be exercised due to potential risks associated with the use of plant extracts; further evaluation regarding their toxicities and interactions is warranted. We anticipate that our comprehensive review will offer improved treatment options for T2DM while inspiring advancements in botanical medicine.
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The last decades witnessed a great demand of natural remedies. As a result, medicinal plants have been increasingly cultivated on a commercial scale, but the yield, the productive quality and the safety have not always been satisfactory. Plant cell cultures provide useful alternatives for the production of active ingredients for biomedical and cosmetic uses, since they represent standardized, contaminant-free and biosustainable systems, which allow the production of desired compounds on an industrial scale. Moreover, thanks to their totipotency, plant cells grown as liquid suspension cultures can be used as “biofactories” for the production of commercially interesting secondary metabolites, which are in many cases synthesized in low amounts in plant tissues and differentially distributed in the plant organs, such as roots, leaves, flowers or fruits. Although it is very widespread in the pharmaceutical industry, plant cell culture technology is not yet very common in the cosmetic field. The aim of the present review is to focus on the successful research accomplishments in the development of plant cell cultures for the production of active ingredients for cosmetic applications.
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Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant drug that can be used topically in dermatology to treat and prevent changes associated with photoageing. It can also be used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Because it is unstable and difficult to deliver into the dermis in the optimum dosage, research is being directed to find stable compounds of Vitamin C and newer methods of delivery of Vitamin C into the dermis.
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Skin is a model of choice in studies on aging. Indeed, skin aging can be modulated by internal and external factors, reflecting its complexity. Two types of skin aging have been identified: intrinsic, mainly genetically determined and extrinsic-also called "photo-aging"-resulting on the impact of environmental stress and more precisely of UV rays. Simplified in vitro models, based on cellular senescence, have been developed to study the relationship between UV and aging. These models vary on the cell type (fibroblasts or keratinocytes, normal or immortalized) and the type of UV used (UVA or UVB).
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Skin aging is a complex biological process influenced by a combination of endogenous or intrinsic and exogenous or extrinsic factors. Because of the fact that skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors representing overall "well-being" and the perception of "health" in humans, several anti-aging strategies have been developed during the last years. It is the intention of this article to review the most important anti-aging strategies that dermatologists have nowadays in hand, including including preventive measurements, cosmetological strategies, topical and systemic therapeutic agents and invasive procedures.
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Background: Reactive oxygen species generated by ultraviolet light result in photocarcinogenic and photoaging changes in the skin. Antioxidants protect skin from these insults. Objective: This study defines formulation characteristics for delivering L-ascorbic acid into the skin to supplement the skin's natural antioxidant reservoir. Methods: L-ascorbic acid or its derivatives were applied to pig skin. Skin levels of L-ascorbic acid were measured to determine percutaneous delivery. Results: L-ascorbic acid must be formulated at pH levels less than 3.5 to enter the skin. Maximal concentration for optimal percutaneous absorption was 20%. Tissue levels were saturated after three daily applications; the half-life of tissue disappearance was about 4 days. Derivatives of ascorbic acid including magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl-6-palmitate, and dehydroascorbic acid did not increase skin levels of L-ascorbic acid. Conclusions: Delivery of topical L-ascorbic acid into the skin is critically dependent on formulation characteristics.
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L-ascorbic acid has been widely used to treat photo-aged skin. However, its aqueous formula is prone to oxidation. Therefore, a new formula that contains 23.8% L-ascorbic acid and a chemical penetration enhancer was developed. Observe the efficacy and safety of topical 23.8% L-ascorbic acid serum on photo-aged skin. Twenty Chinese women with photo-aged skin were enrolled in this split-face study. They were treated with topical L-ascorbic acid serum with iontophoresis on one side of the face once a day for 2 weeks; the other side of the face was spared treatment through participants' self-control. Changes in photo-aged skin were evaluated using a global evaluation, an overall self-assessment, a spectrophotometer, the phase-shift rapid in vivo measurement of skin (PRIMOS) 3D, and a corneometer. Sixteen of 20 patients (80%) experienced a score decrease of 2 or 3 grades, according to the dermatologist. Fifteen patients (75%) rated their overall satisfaction as excellent or good. Dyspigmentation, surface roughness, and fine lines on the treated side improved significantly. Topical 23.8% L-ascorbic acid serum is effective for the treatment of photo-aged skin and does not cause any obvious side effects.
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skin, Vitamin C has been shown to protect against photoaging, ultraviolet-induced immunosuppression, and photocarcinogenesis. it also has an antiaging eCect by increasing collagen synthesis, stabilizing collagen fibers, and decreasing collagen degradation. it decreases melanin formation, thereby reducing pigmentation. Vitamin C is the primary replenisher of vitamin e and works synergistically with vitamin e in the protection against oxidative damage. CONCLUSION: Topical Vitamin C has a wide range of clinical applications, from antiaging and antipigmentary to photoprotective. Currently, clinical studies on the efficacy of topical formulations of Vitamin C remain limited, and the challenge lies in ending the most stable and permeable formulation in achieving the optimal results.
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Objective Raspberry plants, belonging to the species of Rubus idaeus, are known for their excellent therapeutic properties since they are particularly rich in compounds with strong antioxidant activity, which promote health and well-being of human cells. Besides their high content of phenolic compounds, Rubus plants are rich in oil-soluble compounds, which are also primary components of the hydrolipidic film barrier of the skin. As plant cell cultures represented a valuable system to produce interesting compounds and ingredients for cosmetic applications, we developed liquid suspension cultures from Rubus ideaus leaves, and used them to obtain an active ingredient aimed at improving hydration and moisturization capacity in the skin.Methods Rubus ideaus cells, grown in the laboratory under sterile and controlled conditions as liquid suspension cultures, were processed to obtain an oil-soluble (liposoluble) extract, containing phenolic compounds and a wide range of fatty acids. The extract was tested on cultured keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and then on the skin in vivo, in order to assess its cosmetic activities.ResultsWhen tested on skin cell cultures, the extract induced the genes responsible for skin hydration, such as Aquaporin 3, Filaggrin, Involucrin and Hyaluronic Acid Synthase, and stimulated the expression and the activity of the enzyme Glucocerebrosidase, involved in ceramide production. Moreover, the liposoluble extract, increased the synthesis of the extra-cellular matrix components in cultured fibroblasts and showed a remarkable skin hydrating capacity when tested on human skin in vivo.Conclusions Thanks to these activities, the Rubus idaeus liposoluble extract has several potential applications in skin care cosmetics: it can be used as hydrating and moisturizing ingredient in face and body lotions, and as anti-ageing product in face creams specifically designed to fight wrinkle formation.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
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Free radicals have long been studied as a contributor to aging and disease processes. Endogenous production of radicals from cellular metabolism and exogenous sources from ultraviolet radiation and pollution can damage the skin on the cellular and tissue levels. Although the body possesses an elegant defense system to prevent radical damage, this innate system can be overwhelmed and lead to a state of oxidative stress or immunosuppression, and can even trigger carcinogenesis. Topical supplementation of antioxidants can provide additional protection to neutralize reactive oxygen species from both endogenous and exogenous sources. This review will discuss our current understanding of the mechanisms of free radical damage and evaluate the potential benefit of topical antioxidants in sunscreens and skin care products.