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Chapter
Functional Properties of Natural
Dyed Textiles
Deepti Pargai, Shahnaz Jahan and Manisha Gahlot
Abstract
Recently, due to harmful effect of climate change and other environmental
concerns, the interest towards natural dyes has gained momentum. Presently in
this high technological era, only aesthetic appeal of natural dyes could not get full
attention of consumers. A consumer is attracted towards a type of product which is
not only aesthetic but also have some functional properties. Hence considering this
functional aspect, various researches are being carried out to find out the new
dimensions of natural dyes. Colours and other functional properties can be achieved
by various synthetic agents, but the exploration of new functional properties of
natural dyes would be beneficial and relevant for the present as well as for the
future. This chapter compiles all functional aspects of natural dyes which are related
to adding functional properties such as antimicrobial, UV protection, insect repel-
lent, etc. to textiles which can protect the human being from various kinds of
harmful effects of surroundings such as UV radiation, microbes, bacteria and other
harmful insects. This chapter will not only deal with available methods for analysis
of these functional properties of natural dyes but also explore the reason for func-
tional properties of natural dyes.
Keywords: functional properties, natural dyes, UV protection textiles,
antimicrobial property
1. Introduction
Natural dyes are obtained from different natural sources such as plants, insects,
animals and minerals. These are used for coloration of textiles and food since
ancient time [1–3]. With the advent of synthetic dyes, natural dyes had been
subdued for a while. Recently environmental consciousness of consumer increases
due to several harmful impacts of synthetic dyes; thus, interest towards natural
dyes has again gained momentum [4, 5]. Natural dyes are biodegradable as well as
nontoxic. These dyes are safer for environment in terms of safe discharge [6]. In
this era of climate change and different lifestyle of human being, the environment
around human being becomes more harmful than the previous era. Microbes,
moth insects and UV rays are causing various kinds of harmful effects to human
being [7–9]. Presently the human does not wear clothes only for modesty. Hygiene,
cleanliness and protection become major issues, and thus the demand for functional
clothes has also increased. Textile fabric majorly covers the human skin, creating a
microclimate. Presently as the climate changes, the requirement for functional
1
clothing arises. Besides providing colour, natural dyes have inherent functional
properties such as resistance for bacteria, fungus and moth, UV protection, etc.
[10–12]. Fabric as a second skin covers the major part of the body and hence can be
used as a preventive measure from near environment. At present, the researches on
utilisation of natural dyes in functional finishing of textiles have increased because
of the efficiency of natural dyes which provides protection against various harmful
agents as well as provides greater comfort. Dyed fabric remains fresh and odour-
free in use [13, 14]. Natural dyes obtained from traditional dyes giving plants
contain a variety of compounds such as curcumin, crocin, bixin, carthamin,
punicalagin, nimbin, etc. known to have therapeutic properties [15]. Many plants
contain secondary antimicrobial which gives protection against microbial attack.
Applications of natural dyed textile can be extended to a diverse field such as
sportswear and medicinal field due to its various functional properties such as
antimicrobial as well as UV protection [16–18].
2. Functional properties of natural dyed textiles
Natural dyes having functional groups such as OH, NH
2
,COOH, etc.
groups and the textile fibres with active sites (–OH, –SO
3
H, COOH, C
6
H
5
OH,
–NH
2
) can make a complex with or without mordant. Because of the different
interactions of dye and fabric, many functional properties with fastness can be
achieved [19]. Besides functional group of natural dye such as tannins, flavonoids,
anthraquinone, etc., functional groups of respective fabrics are also responsible for
functional properties in the fabric [20]. The following functional properties are
obtained through natural dyeing of textiles.
2.1 Antimicrobial/antibacterial property
The surrounding of human includes a variety of microorganisms like bacteria
and other microbes, which are invisible for the naked eyes. Bacterium is a unicellu-
lar organism. It is divided in Gram-positive (Staphylococcus aureus) and Gram-
negative (E. coli) on the basis of chemical and physical properties of their cell walls
[21]. Examples of common Gram-positive bacteria are Staphylococcus aureus, Strep-
tococcus epidermidis and Bacillus cereus, and the examples of Gram-negative bacteria
are Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumonia, Shigella flexneri and Proteus vulgaris [22].
Clothing majorly covers the human skin or nearby area of direct contact from the
human skin. Thus the growth of these microorganisms on fabric affects the wearer
as clothes on the human body provide a favourable environment for microbial
growth; it provides warmth, oxygen and water as well as nutrients from perspira-
tion. Textile fabrics itself can also be affected by the growth of these microorgan-
isms [23]. Cotton is one of the most affected fabrics by these microbes [24].
Naturally dyed textiles can provide protection against these microorganisms. Anti-
microbial properties of natural dyes are due to the presence of various compounds
such as anthraquinones, flavonoids, tannins, naphthoquinones, etc. [25]. Various
antimicrobial agents are present in natural dye for common human pathogen, but
very few are reported in the case of textiles with respect to human pathogenic
strain, as testing method is different in the case of testing against textiles. Many
plants which have been traditionally used for dyeing are also considered having
medicinal properties which provide protection against these harmful microorgan-
isms. For instance, natural dye which is obtained from Punica granatum peels
having hydrolysable tannins exhibited a notable antimicrobial activity when applied
2
Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments
on tencel fabric [26]. Henna leaves having lawsone compound were found to be
very effective against Candida glabrata in solution as well as after application on
wool substrate [27]. It is reported that antibacterial and antifungal properties of
natural dye are due to its phenolic content. Phenolic compounds attach on the
surface of textiles by forming a complex. When the fabric comes in contact with
microbes, these attached phenolic compounds hamper the enzyme production in
microbes; thus, further cell reaction would not take place, and at the end cell dies.
Natural dyes obtained from M. composita leaves having alkaloids, are found to be
effective against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacterial strains [28]. Madder
(alizarine functional group) and safflower having carthamin with alum, Zn-
sulphate and tannic acid also imparted antibacterial properties, to the dyed poly-
amide- 6 fabric [29]. Rumex maritimus (golden dock) and Quercus infectoria (indigo)
dyes are found to be the most effective against common microbes like Escherichia coli,
Bacillus subtilis,Klebsiella pneumoniae,Proteus vulgaris and Pseudomonas aeruginosa
[12]. Berberine compound as a cationic dye having quaternary ammonium structure
can act as an antibacterial agent. The dyed wool represented a high level of
antibacterial activity [30]. Application of natural dyes peony, pomegranate, clove,
Coptis chinensis (Chinese goldthread) and gallnut extracts on cotton silk and wool
fabric provides excellent antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus. The
possible reported reason for antimicrobial activity of natural dyes obtained from
pomegranate peels, Coptis chinensis, peony and clove is due to ellagic acid, berberine
and eugenol, respectively [31] (Table 1).
Antimicrobial testing is a valuable aid for textile production, distribution and
consumption. To measure the antimicrobial efficacy of natural dyed textiles, test
methods are performed under controlled conditions. The antimicrobial activities are
generally tested both qualitatively and quantitatively through standard tests. Some
of the available and majorly used AATCC standards for textile are as follows:
One prominent quantitative standard for antimicrobial testing of textiles is
AATCC 100-2004 (bacterial reduction method) [32]. Under this test, the test
microorganism of standardised concentration is grown in liquid culture. This
prepared culture is diluted in a sterilised nutritive solution. Control and natural
dyed fabric swatches are inoculated with microorganisms. Inoculated control and
test fabrics are allowed to incubate for 24 hours at 37
o
C, in sealed jars. After
incubation, shake for 1 minute; then concentrations of microbes are observed.
Finally it is calculated how much microorganism reduces as compared to initial
concentration.
Percent reduction of bacteria R ¼100 B AðÞ=B (1)
where A is the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated treated test
specimen swatches in the jar incubated over the desired contact period while B is
the number of bacteria recovered from the inoculated treated test specimen
swatches in the jar immediately after inoculation (at “0”contact time).
Another standard method for antimicrobial testing of textiles is parallel streak
method (AATTC Test Method 147-2004). The agar surface is streaked with an
inoculum of test bacterium. The samples treated with natural dye and the undyed
sample (control sample) are placed in close contact with this agar surface. This is
incubated for 37°C for 18–24 hours.
The following equation is used to calculate the width of a zone of inhibition
along a streak on either.
W¼TDðÞ=2 (2)
3
Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933
where W is width of clear zone of inhibition in mm, T is total diameter test
specimen and clear zone in mm and D is diameter of the test specimen in mm [33].
It has been reported that dyed fabric is able to retain almost half of its initial
antibacterial properties after few washings. Application of mordant like tannin or
other cross-linking agent such as citric acid or any other surface modifications with
cationisation or by applying biopolymer is also responsible for wash stability of
functional properties of natural dyed textiles.
2.2 UV protection
Presently as the climate change are showing its harmful effects, the need for
protection against UV rays has been increased in order to avoid incidences of UV-
induced skin damages. Various sunscreen and synthetic UV absorbers for textile
fabric are currently available in the market, but researches are carried out to search
out eco-friendly alternative such as natural dyes to enhance the aesthetic as well as
UV protection property of the fabric. UV protection properties of dyed fabric is
analysed using UPF of the fabric. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) indicates the
UV protection properties of the fabric.
Application of natural dyes on fabric significantly enhances the UPF of the
fabric. UPF of fabric is affected by the absorption characteristics of natural dyes
[34]. Tannins in plant act as a chemical protector against the UV radiation [35].
Tannin as a phenolic compound absorbs UV radiation due to resonance in structure
and hence after the process of attachment on textile surface. These attached mole-
cules absorb the UV radiation and thus protect the skin from absorbing UV rays.
Tannin-based natural dyes such as R. maritimus, M. philippinensis, K. lacca, A.
catechu and A. nilotica have good UV protection properties [36].
Various kinds of natural dyes provide protection against microbes as well as UV
rays on different kinds of fabric such as wool, cotton and silk. Natural dyes from
eucalyptus leaf extract with ferrous sulphate mordant can provide UV protection
properties with antimicrobial properties to the dyed silk fabric [37]. The cotton
Name of the
natural dye
Botanical name Responsible component for antimicrobial
properties
Pomegranate Punica granatum Tannins
Henna Lawsonia inermis Lawsone
Neem Melia azedarach Phenolic compounds and flavonoids
Madder Rubia tinctorum di- and trihydroxyanthraquinones
Golden dock Rumex maritimus Tannins
Oak galls Quercus infectoria Tannins
Peony Paeonia officinalis Paenol/paenoside/paeonolide/paenoniflorin
Clove Syzygium aromaticum Eugenol (2-methoxy-4 allyl-phenol)
Goldthread/Canker
root/Huang Lian
Coptis chinensis Alkaloid berberine
Turmeric Curcuma longa Curcumin or diferuloylmethane with chemical formula
of (1,7-bis(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-1,6-
heptadiene-3,5-dione) and curcuminoids
Safflower Carthamus tinctorius Flavonoids
Table 1.
Natural dyes with responsible component for antimicrobial properties.
4
Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments
fabric is dyed with Xylocarpus granatum (cedar mangrove) bark extract. In this
experiment, the UPF values of all dyed samples were achieved above the range of
50. It was also reported that it is only possible because of the use of metal mordants
as it helped in the formation of tannate complex [38]. Woollen fabric dyed with the
blossoms of broom (Cytisus scoparius) and dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) also
provides effective UV protection [39]. Flos Caryophyllata (clove) and acutissima
shell with FeSO
4
mordant provide anti-UV properties to the silk fabric and thus the
wearer [40]. Weld, woad, logwood lipstick tree, madder, brazilwood and cochineal
as natural dyes could provide good UV protection on hemp and flax fabric [41].
Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with gromwell roots absorb most of the UV rays [42].
Cationised cotton fabric dyed with henna dye extract exhibited outstanding
enhancement in UV protection [43]. Dyeing of polyester fabric with chitosan and
turmeric dye enhances the UPF of the fabric [44]. It was reported in a study that
simultaneous dyeing and finishing of silk and wool fabrics with the use of cochineal
and weld natural extracts enhanced the UPF and fastness of the fabric. As a result,
excellent UPF range with high fastness was obtained [45]. Application of gallnuts,
areca nuts and pomegranate peels dyed on silk fabric imparted the UV protection
with deodorization and antimicrobial properties [46]. Antibacterial and UV protec-
tion properties were also obtained by cotton fabric dyed with banana peel [47].
Mordant with natural dyes such as cutch and madder also positively affects the UPF
of the cellulosic nettle fabric. In several cases, the use of mordant improves the UPF
value, whereas in most of the cases, mordant lowers the UPF value in comparison to
blank [48]. Addition of mordant lowers the UPF value severely. This was most
likely due to the complex formation ability of dye. Due to coordination bond
formation between the dye and mordant, the structure of the dye changes and so
does its light absorption properties. The absorption shifts to higher wavelengths of
visible region, thus giving deeper colour but less UPF [49]. Very good UPF values
were obtained when the pre-mordanting of jute fabric was done before the actual
dyeing with babool, ratanjot, annatto and manjistha. Both bio and chemical mordant
were used for this [50]. Chitosan mordanting of green tea dyed cotton fabrics
enhanced the UV protection property [51]. Ferrous sulphate as a mordant estab-
lishes ternary complex with both fibre and the dye, and the remaining coordination
sites of Fe metal can absorb UV radiation by converting electronic excitation energy
into thermal energy [47]. Although natural dyes improve the UV protection prop-
erties of the textiles, some limitations are associated with it. For example, the
amount of UV protection of dyed fabrics also tends to decrease due to exposure to
sunlight as well as in laundry process. Therefore, there is a need to do research with
the aim of enhancing the durability of natural dye. Traditionally mordants have
been used since a long time to improve the stability and durability of natural dyes,
but presently various kinds of surface modification techniques are being used to
enhance the durability [52] (Table 2).
Standard testing of specific functional property helps to maintain a quality of
textile products [53]. (AATCC-183: 2004) test method is used for analysis of UPF
[54]. UPF of the treated fabric samples was determined by using “Lab-sphere’sUV
transmittance analyser”. This method is used to determine the UV radiation blocked
and transmitted by the textile fabric. The UPF is computed as the ratio of the
erythemally weighted ultraviolet radiation (UV-R) irradiance at the detector with
no specimen to the erythemally weighted UV-R irradiance at the detector with a
specimen present. The formula which is used for calculation of UPF is as follows:
ð3Þ
5
Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933
where
E
λ=
relative erythemal spectral effectiveness.
S
λ=
solar spectral irradiance.
T
λ
= average spectral transmittance of the specimen (measured).
∆λ= measured wavelength interval (nm).
The UV protection category was determined by the UPF values described by the
Australian Standards/New Zealand AS/NZS 4399 (1996) given in Table 3.
2.3 Deodorising
Odour in textiles is caused by bacterial colonies due to favourable conditions
such as perspiration [56]. Various studies reported about the deodorising perfor-
mance of natural colourants. A study in the deodorising efficiency of gardenia,
Cassia tora L., coffee sludge and pomegranate rind dyed fabric was observed. Max-
imum deodorising capacity was found in pomegranate followed by coffee sludge
(Coffea arabica), Cassia tora and gardenia [57].
Natural dyeing of cotton, wool and silk fabric using gallnut also provides a better
deodorising function against ammonia, trimethylamine and acetaldehyde and
showed bacterial resistance against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia.
The main component in the gallnut extract was found to be gallotannin which is the
reason for these functional properties [58].
Natural dyeing of cellulosic and silk fabric with peony, clove and pomegranate
(Punica granatum) also provides deodorising functionalization [59].
Application of fresh dye of indigo plant provided antimicrobial, sterilising or
deodorising effect and treatment effect of atopic dermatitis [60].
Name of the natural
dye/mordant used
Botanical name Main component for UV
protection properties
Fabric UPF
range
Jamun leaves Syzygium cumini Flavonoids catechin Cotton Excellent
Eucalyptus Flavonoid Tannin Cotton, wool Excellent
Madder Rubia cordifolia Anthraquinone Cotton,
Himalayan
nettle
Very
good
Cutch Acacia catechu Catechin (condensed
tannin)
Cotton,
Himalayan
nettle
Excellent
Pomegranate peels Punica granatum Tannin Cotton Excellent
Banana peels Musa paradisiaca Luteolin Giza cotton Excellent
Table 2.
Natural dyes with responsible component for UV protection properties.
UPF rating UV-R protection Effective UV-R transmission (%) UPF labelling
15–24 Good protection 6.7–4.2 15, 20
25–39 Very good protection 4.1–2.6 25, 30, 35
40–50, 50+ Excellent protection ≤2.5 40, 45, 50, 50
Table 3.
UPF classification system (AS/NZS 4399:1996) [55].
6
Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments
Gas detecting tube method was used for deodorising test. It measures the con-
centration of ammonia gas. Natural dyed fabric is placed in the tube and the
concentration of ammonia is observed. The reduction in concentration of ammonia
signifies the deodorising capacity of dyed fabric. In blank (reference) tube, the
concentration of ammonia is about 500 ppm.
The deodorising capacity of the dyed fabric is calculated using the following
formulae:
Deodorization performance %ðÞ¼Cb CsðÞ=Cb 100 (4)
where Cb is the gas concentration (ppm) of test tube without fabric (blank
state) and Cs is the concentration of tube with fabrics [61].
2.4 Moth proof and insect repellent
Moth larvae which usually remain concealed cause the great losses to woollen
textiles [62]. It has been estimated that 92.5 pounds wool fibre are eaten in 1 year
due to the presence of protein in the wool [63]. Various product ranges such as
carpet, blanket, namda (felted carpet), shawl and knit wears are majorly produced
using wool fibre. Woollen carpet and handicraft play a major role in Indian export
[64]. Dark humid conditions with 25–35° temperature are favourable conditions for
moth larvae attack. Clothes moth (Tineola bisselliella) and carpet beetle (Anthrenus
verbasci) are distributed in all the areas. Anti-moth finishing agents are DDT,
permethrin, permethrin/hexahydro-pyrimidine derivative, cyhalothrin, etc. Some
of these chemicals have been banned, while permethrin pyrimidine chlorine-based
compounds are used widely as an anti-moth finishing agent for textiles, but these
are becoming less effective on beetle larvae. The demand for replacing the per-
methrin and other synthetic anti-moth agent is increasing due to ecotoxicity of
these anti-moth agents. The demand for natural anti-moth agent is increased due to
eco-consciousness of consumers. In the case of natural dyes, its chemical structure
also plays an important role in determining the anti-moth properties. Very few info
are available for natural dyed anti-moth properties. Saffron flower waste, onion
skin, henna, myrobolan, silver oak leaf, madder, wall nut, dholkanali and yellow
roots were observed to impart anti-moth properties to wool, depending on the
amount of tannin in their chemical composition. Natural dyes having higher
amount of tannin repel the moths more effectively. In various experiments it has
been reported that the natural dye having more than about 40% tannin is effective
as an anti-moth agent, for instance, the dye extracted from silver oak, walnut husk
and pomegranate rind having 47.87, 44.31 and 45.23% tannin, respectively, works
as effective anti-moth agent [65].
For testing anti-moth properties, natural dyed and undyed woollen fabric sam-
ples were kept in petri dishes. Ten alive carpet beetles were put on each petri dish.
Petri dish were kept in incubator (time: 15 days, temp: 30–35, RH 50–60%). Weight
loss of the fabric due to moth attack is observed. Visual examination of the damaged
fabric and number of alive moths were also done. For the comparative analysis,
Eulon (a synthetic anti-moth) is also used [66].
2.5 Mosquito repellent
Dangerous diseases due to mosquito bite like dengue, malaria and chikungunya
hit over 1.13 million people in the country last year [67]. Global warming also
increases the growth of mosquitoes and thus the growth in disease like malaria,
7
Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933
yellow fever and dengue fever [68]. Pomegranate peel dyed cotton fabric using
different conc. of polyvinyl alcohol provides 80 percent mosquito repellency [69].
Mosquito repellency test is performed using a prepared cage of 40 cm 40 cm.
Fifty mosquitos are collected. Perforated transparent plastic is used to cover two
opposite sides, while the other side of the cage is covered with carton [70].
3. Chemical compound structure and related functional properties of
natural dyes
Indigoid, pyridine, carotenoid, quinonoid, flavonoids, betalains, anthocyanin,
anthraquinone and tannins are the major chemical compounds found in natural
dyes. These chemical structures are also one basis for the classification of natural
dyes [3]. These functional groups provide a specific functional property to the
textiles.
3.1 Indigoid
The colouring matter in indigo plant leaves is a light yellow substance called
indican (1H-indol-3yl b-D-glucoside) (Figure 1) [71]. Natural indigoid dyes are
mainly obtained from woad (Isatis tinctoria L. Brassicaceae, also known as dyer’s
woad) and the indigo plant (Indigofera tinctoria L) in temperate climates [72].
The cotton fabric dyed with fermented indigo leaves exhibited excellent UV
protection as well as antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus. But dyed
sample was observed to be relatively inactive against Klebsiella pneumonia, while in
the case of application of silk the negligible protection was observed. Deodorisation
capacity of these dyed fabrics was found to be low [73]. Indigo dyed samples with
ferrous sulphate as a metal mordant were observed to fall under good UV protection
category [74].
3.2 Anthraquinone
These dyes have anthraquinone (Figure 2) as a main colouring agent. These are
generally in red colour also called mordant dyes. Madder, lacs, kermes and cochi-
neal natural dyes have anthraquinone chemical structure [75].
The madder dye having anthraquinone structure improved both the UV protec-
tion performance and the antibacterial activity (against Staphylococcus aureus (S.
aureus) and Escherichia coli (E. coli)) of the PET fabric. UV protection factor
increased up to 106 and antibacterial activity up to 86% against both types of
bacteria tested [76]. Excellent UV protection properties were achieved with the
application of cochineal dye on silk and wool fabrics [45].
Figure 1.
Indigo.
8
Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments
The ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) values of lac (having anthraquinone
structure) dyed silk fabric with and without metal mordants also ranged between
very good and excellent for the silk fabric [77].
3.3 Alpha naphthoquinones
Lawsone, henna, juglone and shells of unripe walnut natural dyes contain alpha
naphthoquinone (Figure 3); these dyes are similar to disperse dyes [78].
It has been reported in a study that application of henna extract on cantonised
cotton fabric showed outstanding enhancement in UV protection with minimal
impact on the tensile strength against harmful UV radiation due to alpha-
napthaquinone [79].
3.4 Flavonoids
The basic structural feature of flavonoid compounds is the 2-phenyl-benzo
pyrane or flavan nucleus, which consists of two benzene rings linked through a
heterocyclic pyrane ring (Figure 4). Mostly all yellow-coloured natural dyes are
derivatives of hydroxyl and methoxy-substituted flavones and isoflavones. A com-
mon example of flavonoid containing dye is weld (Reseda luteola) (containing
luteolin pigment). Other plant sources are Allium cepa (onion), Artocarpus
heterophyllus/Artocarpus integrifolia (jackfruit), Myrica esculenta (Kaiphal), Datisca
cannabina (Hemp), Delphinium zalil (Yellow larkspur), Gossypium herbaceum,
Sophora japonica/Styphnolobium japonicum,Butea monosperma/Butea frondosa
(flame of the forest/palas), Mallotus philippinensis (Kamala), Bignonia chica/
Arrabidaea chica (Carajuru/Puca), Commelina communis and Pterocarpus santalinus
(red sandalwood) [80].
Figure 2.
Anthraquinone.
Figure 3.
Alpha naphthoquinone.
9
Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933
It has been reported that quercetin, a flavonoid, imparted better antioxidant,
antibacterial and UV protection performance to silk fabric [81]. Flavonoids and
anthocyanin from red onion skin (Allium cepa L.) are natural dyes with antibacterial
activity and UV protection after application on wool and cotton fabric [82].
3.5 Di-hydropyrans
These are closely related to flavones in terms of chemical structure [83].
Logwood, brazilwood and sappanwood are common example of di-hydropyrans
(Figure 5) which generally provide darker shades on silk wool and cotton [84].
Dyeing with logwood dye having di-hydropyrans showed maximum zone of
inhibition against F. solani and P. decumbens even without any mordanting [85].
3.6 Anthocyanidins
Anthocyanins (Figure 6) are water-soluble natural pigments belonging to the
phenolic family [86]. Carajurin, a direct orange colour for silk coloration, is
obtained from the leaves of Bignonia chica. These are commonly found in red,
purple, blue-coloured flowers and fruits.
It was reported that red reddish dyed silk fabric also provides the antioxidant,
antimicrobial activities and UV protection property due to anthocyanin [87].
3.7 Carotenoids
Carrots are the main source of carotene presence due to double bond
conjugation.
Figure 4.
Flavones (a class of flavonoids).
Figure 5.
Di-hydropyrans.
10
Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments
Annatto and saffron come under the carotenoid (Figure 7) family. It has been
reported that carotenoids have anti-radiation property [88].
3.8 Tannins
Tannins are higher-molecular-weight phenolic compounds. The molecular
weight of tannins ranges between 500 and 3000. It is found in a wide range of
natural flora such as fruit, pods, plant galls, leaves, bark, wood and roots. Tannins
are generally divided into two groups (Figures 8 and 9):
1.Condensed tannins (proanthocyanidins)
2.Hydrolysable (pyrogallol) [89]
Figure 6.
Anthocyanin.
Figure 7.
Carotenoids.
Figure 8.
Condensed tannins.
11
Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933
Tannin is considered as a protective agent against microbes and UV rays. Anti-
microbial and antioxidant properties of dyed wool fabric were observed to have
improved after application of tannin [90].
4. Conclusion
Presently the consumers become aware of hygienic healthy and protective life-
style; hence there is a necessity of clothing with functional properties as it covers
the major part of the body. The various changes in climate and environment require
more protection against UV rays, microbes and insects protecting human from
vector-borne diseases, and clothes do not only cover the modesty or basic require-
ment but also are more functional in terms of protection. Aesthetic as well as
medicinal properties of natural dyes has been exploring since ancient time. The
glory of natural dyes somewhat subdued after the invention of synthetic dye and
presently with the increase of eco-consciousness. Various researches have been
conducted on functional aspect of natural dyes, but still there is a need to find out
the possible sources for more prominent protection.
Although the natural dyed textiles are promising to provide functional proper-
ties such as antimicrobial, UV protection and mosquito as well as moth repellence,
still the stability-related issues with natural dyes also need to be significantly
addressed. Various researches are being organised with this aspect. This stability-
related issue can be enhanced with proper knowledge of interaction of fabric natu-
ral dye and mordant future performance of natural dyes. Proper combination of
dye, fabric and mordants help to enhance the wash stability. Different techniques
like surface modification (plasma treatment and UV irradiation, etc.) and microen-
capsulation can be used to enhance the stability of the functional properties of dyes.
This would further lead to a more stable functional property. Extraction- and
application-related issues of natural dyes should also be sorted out. The whole life
cycle of natural dyes requires different areas of science; thus, collaborative efforts
are required for more prominent results in terms of colour as well as providing
functional properties.
Figure 9.
Hydrolysable tannins.
12
Chemistry and Technology of Natural and Synthetic Dyes and Pigments
Author details
Deepti Pargai*, Shahnaz Jahan and Manisha Gahlot
G.B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, Pantnagar, Uttarakhand, India
*Address all correspondence to: pargai.deepti16@gmail.com
© 2020 The Author(s). Licensee IntechOpen. This chapter is distributed under the terms
of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/3.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium,
provided the original work is properly cited.
13
Functional Properties of Natural Dyed Textiles
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.88933
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