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Formulation and characterization of body scrub using marine alga
Halimeda macroloba, chitosan and konjac flour
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WSC 2019
IOP Conf. Series: Earth and Environmental Science 414 (2020) 012004
IOP Publishing
doi:10.1088/1755-1315/414/1/012004
1
Formulation and characterization of body scrub using marine
alga Halimeda macroloba, chitosan and konjac flour
A Ervina1, J Santoso1, B F Prasetyo2, I Setyaningsih1 and K Tarman1,3,*
1Department of Aquatic Product Technology, Faculty of Fisheries and Marine
Science, IPB University (Bogor Agricultural University), Jl. Agatis 1 Kampus IPB
Darmaga, Bogor 16680, Indonesia
2Department of Veterinary Clinic Reproduction, Faculty of Veterinary Medicines, IPB
University (Bogor Agricultural University), Jl. Agatis 1 Kampus IPB Darmaga, Bogor
16680, Indonesia
3Center for Coastal and Marine Resources Studies, IPB University (Bogor Agricultural
University), Jl. Raya Pajajaran 1, Kampus IPB Baranangsiang, Bogor 16144,
Indonesia
*E-mail: kustiaz@apps.ipb.ac.id
Abstract. Body scrub is a cosmetic product that contains slightly rough material that can
remove dead skin cells. Natural ingredients such as Halimeda macroloba is potential to be used
as scrub. H. macroloba deposits CaCO3 in the thallus which makes the texture of Halimeda
flour is rougher than that of other flour so that it is potentially used as a scrub. The emulsion-
forming agent for body scrub can use konjac flour. Konjac flour contains high glucomannan
which can used as emulsifier. This study aimed to determine the characteristics of body scrub
using H. macroloba and konjac flour. Formulation of body scrub in this study was carried out
by mixing water base (propylene glycol, glycerine, aquadest) and oil base (cetyl alcohol,
stearic acid, DEA, perfume) at temperatures of 70 °C and 80 °C. Afterwards the mixture was
added with 3% of H. macroloba and 2% of konjac flour. Body scrub produced in this study
contained moisture of 58.49-75.15%, viscosity 10 106.67-14 900.00 cP, pH 6.48-6.93,
whiteness 67.74%-95.96%, and spread ability 1.63-2.17 cm. The highest macro mineral
content was calcium (Ca) with an average of 8.24 mg g-1, while the highest micromineral was
iron (Fe) with an average of 16.85 ppm. The most preferred formula for colour and aroma
based on the result of hedonically assessment was formula 2 (fresh H. macroloba with chitosan
2%), while the most preferred for thickness and texture was formula 5 (dried H. macroloba
with chitosan 2%).
Keywords: Amorphophallus; calsium; chitosan; formula; mineral.
1. Introduction
Seafood Body scrub is a body care product that contains slightly rough material or known as cosmetic
abrasiver which can remove dead skin cells [1]. The basic ingredients of body scrub are the same as
cleansing creams in general, but there are additional ingredients, namely coarse grains that are
abrasiver in order to remove dead skin cells [2]. Body scrub ingredients can be made from synthetic
and natural ingredients. Body scrub natural ingredients are generally apricot seeds, walnuts, almonds,
etc, while synthetic ingredients are polyethylene and oxidised polyethylene [3]. People in the last few
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IOP Conf. Series: Earth and Environmental Science 414 (2020) 012004
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doi:10.1088/1755-1315/414/1/012004
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decades have begun to choose cleansing products from natural ingredients because it is safer and
rarely cause irritation. One of the natural ingredients from aquatic products that potential to be used as
body scrub material is Halimeda macroloba. H. macroloba is one of green seaweed genus Halimeda
with harder thallus texture due to its high mineral content [4]. H. macroloba seaweed can deposit
calcium carbonate (CaCO3) in its thallus. This seaweed became the main producer of CaCO3 and
deposited it in the form of aragonite [5]. The presence of CaCO3 in H. macroloba makes the texture of
Halimeda flour was slightly coarser than most flour so that it potential to be used as raw material of
scrubs or granules that will remove dead skin cells.
Besides scrubbing agent body scrub contains emulgator and preservative. Emulgator commonly
used in body scrubs is triethanolamine (TEA). TEA is a chemical that is widely used in topical or
cosmetic product for emulsion forming [6]. The use of TEA in the body scrub formula can be
substituted with natural ingredients namely konjac flour. Konjac flour is produced from porang tubers.
Porang (Amorphophallus sp.) is a type of tuber plants that widely grows in Indonesia. Konjac flour
contains high glucomannan [7]. The research of Yanuriati et al. [8] showed that glucomannan
extraction from porang yielded 65.23%. Glucomannan has high fibre content and can function as an
emulgator in body scrub. The preservative commonly used in body scrubs is methyl paraben. Methyl
paraben is a synthetic preservative that is added to many cosmetic products and it is quite dangerous.
The maximum limit of methyl parabens in cosmetic product is 0.4% [9]. Methyl paraben can be
substituted with natural preservatives, such as chitosan. Chitosan is a non-toxic polysaccharide
obtained from deacetylation of chitin of crustaceans and insects exoskeleton [10]. Kong et al. [11]
states that chitosan has antibacterial properties because of its polycationic structure that is able to
interact electrostatically with the surface of bacteria, causing intracellular leakage of bacterial cells.
This study was conducted to characterize the body scrub which formulate using marine alga H.
macroloba, chitosan and konjac flour.
2. Materials and Method
2.1. Samples Preparation and Formulation of Body Scrub
Samples of marine alga H. macroloba were collected from Kepulauan Seribu Island, Indonesia. The
samples used were fresh and dried algae. Fresh H. macroloba was washed then chopped and crushed
to be a pulp using a blender. The stages of preparation of dried H. macroloba were the same as
preparation of fresh H. macroloba. The seaweed pulp was then dried using freeze dryer.
Body scrub was made in six formulas. Formula 1, 2, and 3 used fresh H. macroloba, while formula
4, 5, and 6 used dried H. macroloba. Formulation of body scrub was carried out by mixing water base
(propylene glycol, glycerine, aquadest) and oil base (cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, DEA, perfume) at
temperatures of 70oC and 80oC then the water base and oil base were mixed to form a cream.
Afterwards the mixture was added with 3% of H. macroloba, konjac flour, and preservative (methyl
paraben or chitosan). The body scrub then analyzed. Analysis includes moisture content, minerals,
viscosity, acidity, whiteness, spreadability, hedonic, and irritation test. The body scrub formulation can
be seen in Table 1.
2.2. Characterization of Body Scrub
Characterization of body scrub containing H. macroloba and konjac flour includes moisture content,
mineral content, viscosity, pH, whiteness, spreadability, and hedonic test. Moisture content of body
scrub was analyzed by oven method refers to AOAC (2012), mineral content was measured by Atomic
Absorption Spectroscopy (AAS) refers to AOAC (2012), viscosity was analyzed by Brookfield
viscometer, pH was analyzed by pH meter, whiteness by Color Analyzer. Spreadability was measured
by spread ability apparatus (scaled glass plate and 50 and 100 g weight), the procedur refers to Yuliati
and Binarjo [12]. Hedonic test was carried out on 30 panelists. Parameter of hedonic test include color,
aroma, consistency, texture, and smearing ability.
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Table 1. Formulation of body scrub.
Material
Formula (% w/w)
Control
1
2
3
4
5
6
Halimeda macroloba
-
3
3
3
3
3
3
Konjac flour
-
2
2
2
2
2
2
Chitosan
-
-
2
3
-
2
3
Methyl paraben
-
0.12
-
-
0.12
-
-
Cetyl alcohol
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Stearic acid
15
15
15
15
15
15
15
Propylene glycol
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
Glycerin
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
DEA
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Perfume
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
0.5
Aquadest
36.25
33.69
32.75
32.25
67.38
65.5
64.5
2.3. Data Analysis
Characteristics of body scrub include moisture content, mineral content, viscosity, acidity, colour, and
spread ability were analysed by one-way ANOVA and hedonic test by Kruskal Wallis Test. Analysis
were conducted using SPSS. The results that show the differences are continued with the Duncan Test.
3. Result and Discussion
3.1. Characteristics of Body Scrub
Body scrub was made into six different formulas, that are formula 1 (fresh H. macroloba with
preservative methyl paraben 0.12%), formula 2 (fresh H. macroloba with preservative chitosan 2%),
formula 3 (fresh H. macroloba with preservative chitosan 3%), formula 4 (dried H. macroloba with
preservative methyl paraben 0.12%), formula 5 (dried H. macroloba with preservative chitosan 2%),
and formula 6 (dried H. macroloba with preservative chitosan 3%). Characterization of body scrub
containing H. macroloba and konjac flour includes moisture content, mineral content, viscosity, pH,
whiteness, spreadability, and hedonic test (Table 2 and Table 3). Body scrub products can be seen in
Figure 1.
Body scrub products from H. macroloba seaweed and konjac flour are made in cream form (Figure
1). Cream belongs to the type of oil-in-water (M/A) emulsion. Body scrub cream preparations are
made from oil-based and water-based ingredients. The oil base includes stearic acid, cetyl alcohol,
diethanolamide (DEA) and perfume, while the water base includes distilled water, glycerin, and
propylene glycol.
Moisture content of body scrub ranged from 58.49%-75.15%. The results of the analysis of
variance showed that differences in the body scrub formula had a significant effect on the body scrub
moisture content (p<0.05) (Table 2). Duncan test results showed that the body scrub moisture content
of formula 5 was significantly different from other formulas except for formula 6. The low moisture
content in formula with fresh H. macroloba is due to the amount of water added in formula with fresh
H. macroloba was half of amount of water added in the formula with dried H. macroloba, to form
semisolid cream with good consistency for body scrub with fresh H. macroloba. Moisture content of
body scrub was also influenced by water content of H. macroloba. Fresh H. macroloba has water
content of 86.78 ± 0.43%, while dried H. macroloba has a water content of 3.82 ± 0.66%. The water
content of fresh H. macroloba is already high enough so that aquadest added to the formula with fresh
H. macroloba are less than the formula with dried H. macroloba in order to avoid runny texture.The
moisture content of both body scrubs with fresh and dried H. macroloba decreases with increasing
chitosan concentration. Islam et al. [13] states that the higher concentration of chitosan added, the
moisture content of the product will decreases; this decrease is due to the high chitosan ability to bind
water. Water content is related to water binding capacity, the higher the chitosan water binding
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capacity, the lower the product water content. The ability to bind water to chitosan is due to the
presence of a hydrophilic group, the hydroxyl group.
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
(e)
(f)
Figure 1. Body scrub product. (a) formula 1; (b) formula 2; (c) formula 3; (d) formula 4; (e) formula
5; (f) formula 6.
Table 2. Physical and chemical characteristics of body scrub.
Formula
Moisture content
(%)
Viscosity
(cP)
pH
Whiteness
(%)
Spreadability
(cm)
1
64.28c
12990.00c
6.50c
95.96a
1.87c
2
60.98d
14306.67b
6.51c
83.66b
1.83c
3
58.49c
14900.00a
6.56b
76.41c
1.70d
4
75.15a
10106.67f
6.48c
67.74f
2.17a
5
71.59b
12030.00e
6.91a
71.24e
2.00b
6
70.46b
12346.67d
6.93a
72.38d
1.63d
Note: different superscript letters indicated significant differences (P < 0.05).
The average value of body scrub viscosity ranges from 10106.67-14900.00 cP. The results of the
analysis of variance showed that differences in the body scrub formula had a significant effect on the
viscosity of the body scrub (p<0.05) (Table 2). Duncan's further test results showed that the viscosity
of formula 1 was significantly different from all formulas. The viscosity of all formulas was in
accordance with SNI 16-4399-1996 about cosmetic products which states that the viscosity of
cosmetic products ranges from 2000-50000 cP. The viscosity of body scrub with fresh H. macroloba
was higher than the viscosity of body scrub with dried H. macroloba. This is due to the amount of
water added to the body scrub formula with fresh H.macroloba was less than that of the body scrub
with dried H. macroloba, so that the viscosity of the body scrub with fresh H.macroloba was higher.
The addition of konjac flour in the body scrub can increase the thickness of the body scrub. Konjac
flour contains high glucomannan. The glucomannan content of konjac flour can reach 65.23% [8].
Glucomannan is a gel-shaped polysaccharide containing glucose and manosa which can be used as a
thickening agent, gelling agent, and emulgator in cosmetic products. Glucomannan in konjac flour can
form a thick solution in water, thereby increasing the viscosity of the body scrub. Glucomannan can
absorb water up to 200 times the volume of glucomannan [14]. Besides konjac flour, body scrub
viscosity can also influenced by the addition of H.macroloba. Bilan and Usov [15] reported that
Halimeda contains water-soluble sulfated polysaccharides containing uronic acid. This polysaccharide
from Halimeda is similar to musilago, which is a hydrocolloid composed of a mixture of
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monosaccharides and uronic acid which can form a thick solution and can expand in water. The
existence of this hydrocolloid can make the cream thick so that the viscosity of the cream is quite high.
The pH of body scrub ranged from 6.48-6.93. The results of the analysis of variance showed that
the differences in the body scrub formula had a significant effect on the pH (p<0.05) (Table 2).
Duncan's further test results showed the pH of formula 1 was not significantly different from formula
2 and 4 but was different from other formulas. Formula 5 was also not significantly different from
formula 6, but it was significantly different from other formulas. The pH of all formulas was in the
ranged of pH of cosmteic product in accordance with SNI 16-4339-1996 (4.5-8.0). Cosmetic products
according to Faradiba et al. [16] must have pH that suitables with the physiological pH of the skin
(4.5-7.5). The pH of body scrubs was not much different from the physiological pH of the skin, thus
body scrubs produced in this study is safe to use.
Whiteness of body scrubs ranges from 67.74-95.96%. The results of the analysis of variance
showed that the difference in the body scrub formula had a significant effect on the whiteness of body
scrub (p<0.05) (Table 2). Duncan's further test results show that the whiteness of formula 1 was
significantly different from all other formulas. The highest whiteness was found in formula 1 (fresh H.
macroloba, methyl paraben 0.12%). The whiteness of body scrub is influenced by the raw material
and the composition of the supporting materials used in the formula. The color of the body scrub using
dried H. macroloba is greener than the color of the body scrub using fresh H. macroloba so that it
whiteness is lower than the body scrub using fresh H. macroloba. H. macroloba has green thallus
color due to the content of the dominant green pigment derived from the chlorophyll contained [17].
The results of the analysis of variance showed that the difference in the body scrub formula had a
significant effect on the spread ability of the body scrub (p<0.05) (Table 2). Duncan's further test
results show that the spread ability in formula 1 was significantly different from all formulas except
for formula 2. Formula 3 was not significantly different from formula 6 and was significantly different
from all other formulas. Formula 4 has the highest spread ability, this is due to the highest moisture
content in formula 4 and the lowest viscosity compared to other formulas. Kurniasih [18] stated that
the lower the viscosity of the cream, the smaller the diameter of spread ability. The spread ability of
the body scrub decreases with increasing chitosan concentration, because the increase in the
concentration of chitosan will increase the viscosity of the cream, so the spread ability is lower.
Chitosan can hold water in its structure and spontaneously form a gel in the product so that the product
becomes thicker [19].
Table 3. Minerals content of body scrub.
Mineral
Kadar mineral (ppm)
Formula
1
2
3
4
5
6
Ca
3564.93f
4983.23e
5340.71d
10931.71c
12731.83a
11866.21b
K
2117.28a
1918.37c
2012.40b
1341.17d
1361.38d
1173.40e
Na
918.25a
851.14b
866.58b
597.56e
703.39c
622.19d
Mg
31.23f
161.38b
207.51a
40.88e
119.79d
142.78c
Fe
6.21d
17.75b
23.44a
12.50c
18.95b
22.27a
Zn
2.63ba
1.11e
1.51d
1.96c
2.34b
2.33b
Cu
0.49bc
0.42bc
0.55b
0.37c
0.55b
1.35a
Note: different superscript letters indicated significant differences (P < 0.05)
The results of the analysis of variance show that differences in the body scrub formula had a
significant effect on the micro mineral content (p<0.05) (Table 3). Duncan's further test results showed
that the Fe content of formula 2 was significantly different from other formulas except formula 5, the
Fe content of formula 3 was also significantly different from other formulas except formula 6. The Zn
content of formula 5 was not significantly different from formula 6 but was significantly different
from other formulas. The Cu content of formula 1 was not significantly different from the other
formulas except formula 4 and 6. The highest Fe content was 23.44 ppm, the highest Zn content was
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2.63 ppm, and the highest Cu content was 1.35 ppm. Micro minerals contained in the body scrub can
be beneficial for the skin as nutrients for the skin. Pawlikowski and Hreska [20] stated that Cu with
vitamin C and Zn can help the formation of elastin. Zn can also control oil production, cure acne, and
protect skin from UV rays.
Ca content of body scrub ranged from 3.56-12.73 mg g-1, K content ranged from 1.17-2.12 mg g-1,
Na content ranged from 0.60-0.92 mg g-1, and Mg content ranged from 0.03-0.21 mg g-1. The results
of the analysis of variance showed that differences in body scrub formula had a significant effect on
the macro mineral content (p<0.05). Duncan's further test results showed that the Ca content of
formula 1 was significantly different from all other formulas, the K content of formula 4 were
significantly different from other formulas except formula 5, the Na content of formula 2 was
significantly different from other formulas except formula 3, and the Mg content of formula 1 was
significantly different from all other formulas. Mineral Ca of body scrub has a greater value than other
minerals. High Ca content in the body scrub comes from H. macroloba. Halimeda is the main
producer of Ca which is deposited in the form of aragonite. Halimeda contains Ca which can reach
124 mg g-1 [21]. Ca minerals can help stimulate the formation of antioxidants and regulate skin
pigments to protect them from the sun's UV rays [20].
Table 4. Hedonic value of body scrub.
Formula
Color
Aroma
Consistency
Texture
Smearing ability
1
5.77a
5.77a
4.37b
4.23d
4.33b
2
5.90a
5.80a
4.67b
4.03d
4.70b
3
5.80a
5.70a
4.80b
4.73c
4.37b
4
5.43b
5.47a
5.80a
5.40b
6.17a
5
5.70ab
5.33a
5.93a
6.10a
6.10a
6
5.67ab
5.40a
5.70a
6.07a
5.90a
Note: different superscript letters indicated significant differences (P < 0.05).
The results of Kruskal Wallis analysis show that differences in body scrub formula had a
significant effect on panellist acceptance on the body scrub colour (p<0.05) (Table 4). Duncan's
further test results showed that the panellists’ preference for the colour of formula 1 was not
significantly different from all the other formulas except for formula 4. The most preferred colour was
formula 2 with value of 5.90 (rather prefer). The colour of the body scrub is affected by the colour of
H. macroloba seaweed and porang flour. H. macroloba has green colour while konjac flour was white.
Besides scrubs, stearic acid used also affects the colour of the product. Morwanti [22] stated that
stearic acid used in formulas will make the colour of the cream tend to be whiter.
The average value of the panelists' preference for aroma ranged from 5.33-5.80 (rather prefer). This
shows that panelists liked the aroma of all formulas. The results of Kruskal Wallis analysis show that
differences in body scrub formula did not have a significant effect on panelist acceptance on the aroma
of body scrub (p>0.05) (Table 4). The aroma that panelists like was caused by the addition of perfume
to the body scrub. Luthfiyana et al. [23] stated that pleasant and easily recognizable aroma will
generally be preferred over aromas that are not recognized.
The results of Kruskal Wallis analysis show that differences in body scrub formulas have a
significant effect on panelist acceptance on the consistency of body scrubs (p<0.05) (Table 4).
Duncan's further test results shows that panelist preference for formula 1 is significantly different from
formula 4, 5, and 6 but not significantly different from formula 2 and 3. Panelist preference value for
consistency of all formulas ranges from 4.37-5.93 (rather prefer). Panelists preferred body scrubs with
dried H. macroloba over the body scrub with fresh H. macroloba. Consistency of body scrub is
affected by the addition of konjac flour. Konjac four contains high glucomannan. Glucomannan
content in konjac flour can reach 70.70%. Glucomannan is a polysaccharide containing glucose and
manose which can form gel and makes a high viscosity in a product. Glucomannan is used as a
thickening agent and emulgator in the food, medicine and cosmetics industries [14]. The addition of
konjac flour to the formula results in better cream consistency. Body scrub cream becomes thicker
after adding konjac flour. Besides the addition of konjac flour, chitosan added to the formula can
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provide a thick cream consistency of body scrub. Wisuda et al. [24] reported that chitosan has a
hydrophilic group which makes chitosan hygroscopic so that it can bind water in the cream and
increase the viscosity of cream.
The results of Kruskal Wallis analysis show that differences in body scrub formulas have a
significant effect on panellist acceptance on the texture of body scrubs (p<0.05) (Table 4). The
average value of panellists’ preferences for body scrub textures ranges from 4.03-6.10 (neutral-prefer).
Duncan's further test results show that formula 1 is significantly different from all other formulas
except formula 2. Formula 5 is not significantly different from formula 6 but is significantly different
from all other formulas. The most preferred texture was found in formula 5 with value of 6.10 (prefer).
Panellist assessment showed that panellists tended to like the texture of body scrub with dried H.
macroloba and chitosan as preservative. The texture of body scrub is quite soft with granules that are
slightly rough when applied to the skin. Granules found in the body scrub comes from H. macroloba.
H. macroloba contains high calcium. The result of mineral analysis of body scrub showed that body
scrub contains calcium ranged from 3.56-12.73 mg g-1. The presence of calcium in H. macroloba
makes the texture of H. macroloba flour slightly rough than flour in general. Granules of H.
macroloba can function as scrubs on body scrub creams. Isfianti and Pritasari [25] stated that the
characteristics of a good scrub cream have a rough texture that can help exfoliate dead skin cells. The
function of scrubs on the body scrub is as a physical exfoliating agent that physically removes dead
skin cells. The body scrub texture is also affected by the scrub particle size. The size of scrub particles
will affect the effectiveness of scrub in removing dead skin. Yuliati and Binarjo [12] reported that 20
mesh scrub particle size was more effective in removing dead skin than 30 mesh and 40 mesh sizes.
The smaller the scrub size, the more surface area derived in contact with the skin. The size of the scrub
particles that are not too large will reduce friction with the skin so that it does not give pain when
applied. Body scrub with dried H. macroloba is preferred by panellists. The scrub particle size of dried
H. macroloba was 18 mesh. This size provides a good texture and is comfortable when applied to the
skin surface by panellists.
The results of Kruskal Wallis analysis show that differences in body scrub formulas have a
significant effect on panelist acceptance on the smearing ability (p<0.05) (Table 4). The average value
of the panelists' preference for smearing ability ranged from 4.33-6.17 (neutral-prefer). Duncan's
further test results show that formula 1 was not significantly different from formula 2 and 3 but is
significantly different from other formulas. Formula 4 is not significantly different from formulas 5
and 6 but is significantly different from formulas 1, 2, and 3. Panelists prefer the smearing ability of
all body scrub formulas that use dried H. macroloba. This result was in accordance with the results of
hedonic evaluation of the consistency and texture parameters. The texture and consistency of the body
scrub with dried H. macroloba was preferred by the panelists. Sampebarra [26] stated that the better
the consistency and texture of the cosmetic product, the better the smearing ability produced. The
body scrub in this study had a good consistency and thickness so it was comfortable and easy to spread
evenly on the surface of skin by the panelists.
4. Conclusion
Characteristics of body scrub using marine alga H. macroloba, chitosan and konjac flour were
containing an average moisture of 66.83%, viscosity of 12 780 cP, pH 6.65, whiteness of 77.90%, and
spread ability of 1.87 cm. The highest macro mineral content was calcium (Ca) and the lowest was
iron (Fe). The difference in the formula of body scrub resulted a significant effect on the moisture
content, mineral content, viscosity, pH, whiteness, spread ability, color, consistency, texture, and
smearing ability of the body scrub. The best body scrub formula based on the result of hedonically
assessment was body scrub that uses dried H. macroloba.
Acknowledgements
This work was financially supported by Ministry of Research, Technology and Higher Education,
Indonesia through Competitive Research Funding (PTUPT) with a contract number
No.4331/IT3.L1/PN/2019 to Dr. Kustiariyah Tarman.
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