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Journal of Textile Engineering and Fashion Technology
Recent Innovations in Jacquard Weaving Technology
Review Article
N Gokarneshan*, M Gopalakrishnan, S Rajesh kumar and G Shreelalitha
Department of textile technology Bannariamman Institute of
technology Sathyamangalam Tamil Nadu India
*Corresponding author
N Gokarneshan, Department of textile technology Bannariamman Institute of
technology Sathyamangalam Tamil Nadu India, E-mail: advaitcbe@redimail.
com
Submitted: 12 Sep 2019; Accepted: 21 Oct 2019; Published: 25 Oct 2019
Keywords: Jacquard Loom, Warp Tension, Weave Structures,
Compound Half-Backed Design, Fabric Color, Energy Consumption,
Griffes
Introduction
Jacquard fabric is luxurious, elegant, and popular textile products
with high added- value. Compared with traditional dyed and plaid
clothes, the jacquard fabrics have more opportunities to manufacture
durable, delicate, and complex patterns on the garments or home
textiles. Therefore, the market orientation of the jacquard fabric is
always at high-end market. This is not only because of its excellent
appearance, but also because of its complicated preparing and
operating processes. Jacquard loom is a traditional way to fabricate
and weave the jacquard fabric. It is comprised of a set of mechanical
parts co-operating with each other to accomplish the weaving task.
Nowadays, the running process of jacquard loom can be mostly
automated without much human help while the preparation step still
need pure manual operation. Dealing with the possible problems
and improving the automation level during the jacquard weaving,
a wide array of researchers have proposed and published a series
of literatures [1-4]. Lee, et al, and Seyam, et al, have published
several papers to introduce a new device using micro-electro-
mechanical systems (MEMS). This device can be equipped on the
harness cords of jacquard to detect and identify warp break locations
during weaving process. The success of this device makes it possible
to develop an automated warp break repair system. Many other
investigators focus on the pattern design of the jacquard, which is
not the main point of this paper [5, 6].
Electronic Jacquard weaving of course uses all sorts of bers and
blends of bers, and it is used in the production of fabrics for many
end uses. The most widely known application of electronic jacquards
is related to the woven industry products such as saree, blankets,
covers, towels, plastic mats, tablemats, carpets, dress materials,
suiting and shirting, labels, furnishing, upholstery, lacs etc. The
past decade has brought a revolution in electronic jacquard weaving
all over the world [7-12]. Due to this revolution, the availability
of appropriate software tools has become essential to fulll the
demands of textile manufacturers and loom users. The most common
electronic jacquard sizes adopted in different parts of India, range
from 448 Hooks to 2688 Hooks. Going for higher hooks electronic
jacquard, one can weave wider more detailed designs.
Designing of fabrics require using a set of coloured yarns, which
in combination give a wanted visual appearance. This is done by
combining the yarns in the weave, either by showing the colour or
hiding a warp above the weft or vice versa [13, 14]. The use of weft
and warp coloured yarns with weave structure allow to development
fabric designs, by appear the desired colour in one area of the design,
and we can obtain more large of colours effects by changing the
fabric constructional parameters, this constructional parameters of
fabric can inuence even more the fabric reect [3-5, 15-18].
Jacquard woven fabric is made from dyed yarns and different weaves
[19, 20]. It exhibits complex pictorial patterning effects on the face
of fabrics and is one of the most value-added textile products [21].
The design process of traditional jacquard fabric is divided into
three steps. First, a colourful pattern is drawn freehand. Then, the
Abstract
The article reviews some signicant developments in jacquard technology during the recent years. One area has focused on
energy consumption of the griffes during their service life. The griffes in a jacquard loom having reciprocating motion and
high speed gets affected during weaving process. In the case of saree weaving a software tool – set of algorithms/procedures
has been developed. It would prove useful for electronic jacquards in saree weaving. In another area of work, the inuence
of warp tension on fabric color for many types of weave structures has been demonstrated, and a relation between them
has been evolved. In yet another interesting development, a design technique known as compound half backed weave has
been developed on the basis of layered-combination design mode and compound structure, to obtain a new weave structure
and surface effect of fabric.
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Volume 1 | Issue 1 | 2 of 5J Textile Eng & Fash Tech, 2019 www.opastonline.com
weave structure of jacquard fabric is designed to copy the effect of
original pattern. Lastly, a weaving pattern is exported in jacquard
CAD to control a jacquard loom and the jacquard fabric with the
freehand pattern would be produced [22, 23]. Since consumers
selected fabric rstly depending on their visual images on the face
of fabric, it is important for designers to produce jacquard fabric
with exquisite effect and abundant colours [24, 25]. However, the
design cycle must last long. The design of layered-combination
design mode and compound structure make digital images can be
used directly in jacquard fabric design and shorten the pattern and
technical designing time [26-28].
Application of Finite Element Analysis for Studying Energy
Consumption of Griffes
The authors of the papers have done similar theoretical work using
nite elementanalysis (FEA) technique to investigate the stress and
strain behaviors of the textile structures [7-9, 29-31]. In present
research, the FEA technique will be applied to the mechanical
analysis of the griffes of jacquard during weaving process.
The 3D model of two set griffes is shown in gure 1. The griffe
can be divided into long griffe and short griffe, which are making
relative movement with each other. The needle of the jacquard, gure
1(b), that is connected to warp yarns with various colors is set on
the edges of the griffe. The movement of the needle depends on the
pattern of the desired product. During the whole weaving process,
some needles will be attached to magnetic valve and hung up the
griffe while the others will move with the griffes.
(a) (b)
Figure 1: (a) The assembly sketch of the whole model
(b) The needle on the griffe
This paper reports the energy consumption during the weaving
process of Jacquardloom with FEA technology. The results show that
the moment when the velocity ischanged to the opposite direction
is most likely to be a critical moment for the fatal damageof the
components [32]. Therefore, the reinforcement design of the griffes
should also focuson the critical loading ability at this moment.
Innovative Software Tool for Weaving Sarees Using Electronic
Jacquards
The past decade has brought a revolution in electronic jacquard
weaving all over the world. Due to this revolution, the availability
of appropriate software tools has become essential to fulll the
demands of textile manufacturers and loom users. The most common
electronic jacquard sizes adopted in different parts of India, range
from 448 Hooks to 2688 Hooks [33-36]. Going for higher hooks
electronic jacquard, one can weave wider more detailed designs. The
proposed software tool is developed keeping in mind master weavers,
textile designers & weavers engaged in weaving exclusive sarees
using Power Looms & Hand Looms tted with electronic jacquards.
Figure 2: Saree arrangement
The proposed software tool developed using Visual Studio, for
Windows based systems was delivered to over 100 textile designers
& master weavers located in different saree weaving areas of
Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh & Tamilnadu of India. Necessary
changes were made to make it simple & more suitable for the
electronic jacquards of the make sai- electronic jacquards. Textile
designers gave the feedback, that the new software tool simplies the
operation & reduces their design time [37]. Master weavers found
that, they could design themselves with basic design components
supplied by the designer, try on their own lot of combinations, and
weave the sample, saving lot of time, and able to generate lot of
value additions to their product. Weavers found, since the lot of
pre-processing & information is already recorded in the production
le format, it eases loom operation & increases the productivity.
Inuence of warp tension on fabric color having various
structures
The relation between colour and weave structures have been
analyzed in several paper, The effect of small waves repeat in the
derivation of colours is analysed by Dawson, where the sizes of the
smallest sets of yam colour sequences that cover all possibilities
are determined, and all effects with plain weave identied [38].
Dimitrovski and Gabrijelcic gave a mathematical relationship to
determine the proportion of yarn colour appearance in any weave
structure [39]. The warp tension in the weaving loom have been
the subject of many investigation to increase loom producing by
decrease cutting of warp yarn, by suitable warp tension value, and
to improve the fabric quality [40-44]. Musa Kılıç and Ayşe Okur
were investigate the relationships between yarn diameter measured
and yarn strength, and they gave a statistically relationships between
yarn diameter variation and strength variation [45].
Volume 1 | Issue 1 | 3 of 5J Textile Eng & Fash Tech, 2019 www.opastonline.com
Figure 3: The weaving machine used in the study
The image analysis techniques used for the identication of
textile products, where the relation between weave diagram and
its diffraction pattern established using digital image processing
technology [46, 47]. A different process techniques had used to
analyses the pictures or images that have been converted to numerical
form. The advantage of image analysis techniques is rapid and
reliable instrumental method for measurement, analysis, and real
time dynamic controls [48].
This research aims to demonstrate the effect of warp tension on
fabric colour for several types of weaves structures, and found a
relationship between them. And determine the proportion of yarns
colour appearance using the digital image analysis.
Warp tension has an effect on the colour of fabric, and this effect is
related to several factors. The large proportion of warp appearance
leads to larger effect on fabric colour.
The difference in the value of the colour differences ΔEcmcis larger
in the range 16 to 20 cN/texof warp tension. Using the digital image
analysis, we demonstrated the relationship between warp appearance
proportions and different weaves structure [49]. Using statistical
methods, a mathematical model to calculate the amount of the
colour difference ΔEcmccaused by the change in warp tension had
been proposed.
Compound Half Backed Weave Design for Digital Jacquard
Fabric
Previous research works of layered-combination design mode, of
which the key technology is the innovation of structure design,
indicated that the compound structures can be divided into three
basic types: backed, unbacked and half-backed [50]. The backed
structure is a kind of compound structure being employed normally
on design of conventional weft-backed fabric. The weft with longer
oat length cover the other one and only the colour information of
the weft with longer oat length is on the fabric surface [51, 52]. The
unbacked compound structure, which can only be used on layered-
combination design mode, is capable of expressing mixture colours
accurately. There is no relationship among adjacent two wefts and
the colour information of all wefts is on the fabric surface. The
theoretical and practical researches of unbacked compound structure,
so called full-colour compound structure, have been introduced in
the previous studies [53]. Several innovative design works of digital
jacquard with millions of mixed colours and various pattern motifs
have been produced using full-colour effect compound structure,
including simulation effect, superimposition effect, double-face
effect, shot-effect, etc [54, 55]. However, the half-backed compound
structure is that only either the upper or the lower adjacent weft
could cover each weft. An innovative method of compound structure,
here called the compound half-backed weave design, based on the
structural characteristics of the compound half-backed weave, has
been presented.
Figure 4: Digital image with four layers
Figure 5: Compound fabric structure and half backed jacquard fabric
(a) Compound fabric pattern
(b) Fabric effect
(c) Details of fabric
The study of compound half-backed weave is a kind of design
researchers in the eld of digital structure innovation of jacquard
textile under the layered combination design mode. The design of
compound half-backed weave should be approached on the base of
gamut weaves and its half backed technical points. Once the weave
database have been set up, it is time saving for designers do not need
to design weave database every time and it can be used in every
design procedure. The fabric designed with compound half backed
weave design is capable of expressing random half backed color
mixture effect and can present million level mixed colors by only
four sets of weft. It is much easier than the traditional method that
uses eight sets of wefts. The fabric so produced in this manner can
only be realized under the layered combination design mode, so that
it is effective in protecting the designers copyright. It is envisaged
that the fabrics produced by compound half backed weave meet
well the technical requirement of balanced interlacement and pose
no problem in mass production.
Conclusion
Mechanical damage to some moving parts is inevitable when
operating at high speeds. It could also tend to affect operators.
Hence, in order to intuitively show the energy consumption on the
jacquard griffes, nite element analysis technique has been used.
It could prove useful in the design and local reinforcement of the
Jacquard griffes. In order to help designers and master weavers to
more effectively utilize and adopt electronic jacquards for weaving
Volume 1 | Issue 1 | 4 of 5J Textile Eng & Fash Tech, 2019 www.opastonline.com
of sarees, a software tool that comprises of a set of algorithms/
procedures, has been proposed. Adoption of Strides provided in
Net to implement algorithms resulted in processing of large size
designs at phenomenal speeds. In order to nd out the proportion
of yarns and color appearance, the image analysis method has been
adopted. The technique has the merit of rapidity and reliability. The
woven fabric samples are consisting of a polyester warp yarn with
continuous laments and density of 33 end/cm, a polypropylene
weft yarn with a density of 24 pick/cm, and the warp tension ranged
between 12-22 cN/tex. The ndings reveal the inuence of the warp
tension on the colour of fabric and are related to many factors,
where the large proportion of warp appearance results in greater
inuence on fabric colour. The difference in the value of colour
differences is larger is in the range 16 to 20 cN/tex of warp tension. A
mathematical model has been evolved by use of statistical methods,
for calculation of the amount of the colour, difference caused by the
change in warp tension had been proposed. The design technique
comprises of selected weaves, half-backed technical points set up
and half-backed weave databases established. The fabric produced
using compound half-backed weave designed by this method can
exhibit a unique half-backed effect that only half of the threads on the
fabric surface remain in a state of being covered by adjacent wefts.
Compound half-backed weave satises the design requirement of
jacquard fabric having various digital images, effectively enhances
the efciency of structural design, and opens up new theory and
technique for new design of digital jacquard fabric as well.
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