Available via license: CC BY
Content may be subject to copyright.
181
Corresponding author/Korespondenčna avtorica:
Assist Prof dr. Marija Gorjanc
E-mail: marija.gorjanc@ntf.uni-lj.si
Tel.: +386 1 200 32 56
Tekstilec, 2019, 62(3), 181-186
DOI: 10.14502/Tekstilec2019.62.181-186
1 Introduction
Invasive alien plant species (IAPS) cause damage to
European ecosystems and economies. e “AP-
PLAUSE” project aims to use IAPS as a resource for
the development of new products (e.g., dyes for tex-
tiles). e rhizome and leaves of Fallopia japonica
(F. japonica ) have the potential to be used as dyes
for textiles. To date, no research has been published
on the subject, except for a study on the dyeing of
plasma-treated cotton and bamboo rayon with F.
japonica rhizome extract [1], where it was found
that plasma-treated textile samples had a higher ad-
sorption of dye and, consequently, better antibacteri-
al properties. e traditional pretreatment of textiles,
when dyeing with natural dyes, is mordanting. Mor-
dants are metal salts that enable a higher adsorption
of dye onto textiles, and can be used to achieve dif-
ferent colours with the same natural dye [2]. Alter-
natives to the classical mordants are plasma, chi-
tosan, and cationic agent pretreatments [3–5].
Plasma is a partially ionised gas that enables the for-
mation of new functional groups on the bres’ sur-
face and/or their micro- to nano-etching [6]. It is an
Marija Gorjanc, Mateja Kert, Amra Mujadžić, Barbara Simončič, Petra Forte-Tavčer, Brigita Tomšič,
Klara Kostajnšek
University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Aškerčeva 12, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
Cationic Pretreatment of Cotton and Dyeing with Fallopia
Japonica Leaves
Kationska predobdelava bombaža in barvanje z listi
japonskega dresnika (Fallopia Japonica)
Original Scienti c Article/Izvirni znanstveni članek
Received/Prispelo 07-2019 • Accepted/Sprejeto 08-2019
Abstract
This work examines the possibility of using leaves from the invasive plant species Fallopia japonica (Japa-
nese knotweed) as a source of dye for the natural dyeing of cotton. To achieve a higher uptake of extract-
ed dye, a cationic agent instead of a classical mordant was used to treat the cotton prior to dyeing. Distilled
water and 0.5 M NaOH were used as extraction mediums to produce natural dyebaths with diff erent con-
centrations (10, 20 and 50 g/L) of Fallopia japonica leaves. The colorimetric measurements revealed that a
higher concentration of extract, the extraction of leaves in NaOH and a cationic pretreatment of cotton yield
a dark-brown-coloured cotton with good wash stability.
Keywords: Fallopia japonica leaves, cotton, dyeing, cationic pre-treatment, wash stability
Izvleček
Raziskana je možnost uporabe listov invazivne rastlinske vrste Fallopia japonica (japonski dresnik) kot vir barvila
za naravno barvanje bombažne tkanine. Za povečanje adsorpcije ekstrahiranega barvila na bombaž je bila tka-
nina namesto s klasično čimžo predobdelana s kationskim sredstvom. Kot ekstrakcijski medij za barvilo sta bila
uporabljena destilirana voda (H2O) in 0,5 M natrijev hidroksid (NaOH). Barvalne kopeli so bile pripravljene v treh
koncentracijah listov japonskega dresnika, tj. 10, 20 in 50 g/l. Rezultati refl eksijske spektrometrije so pokazali, da viš-
ja koncentracija listov, ekstrakcija v NaOH in kationska predobdelava vodijo v temnejša rjava obarvanja bomba-
ža z zelo dobro obstojnostjo pri pranju.
Ključne besede: listi, japonski dresnik, barvanje, kationska predobdelava, obstojnost pri pranju
182 Cationic Pretreatment of Cotton and Dyeing with Fallopia
Japonica Leaves
Tekstilec, 2019, 62(3), 181-186
ecologically benign form of textile modi cation.
Natural dyes extracted from curcumin and green tea
were shown to have a higher adsorption onto cotton
fabric if the fabric was pretreated with ammonia
plasma [3]. In contrast, the adsorption of natural
dyes was shown to decrease if the cotton samples
were pretreated with oxygen plasma. It was found
that plasma pretreatment did not in uence the
change in the bathochromic or hypsochromic shi
of the absorption spectra of dyed cotton. e pre-
treatment of wool with oxygen plasma was shown to
enable a better adsorption of dendrimer with amine
end groups, and consequently a better adsorption of
cochineal dye [7]. A great amount of dye was ab-
sorbed due to the electrostatic attraction between
the negatively charged dye molecules and positively
charged dendrimers as well as the positively charged
amine groups of wool bres. Chitosan is poly-cati-
onic amino polysaccharide and has acquired great
importance as a new functional material for textile
applications mainly because of its biocompatibility
and non-toxicity [8]. When it is used to pretreat tex-
tiles for dyeing with natural dyes, it serves as a “bio-
logical” mordant that enhances the adsorption of
the dye, e.g., between wool and tea [9], wool and
henna [10] and cotton and black tea [11].
e purpose of this research was to examine the po-
tential of F. j a p o n i c a leaves as a source of textile dye
and to use a cationic agent instead of metal mor-
dants to pretreat cotton.
2 Experimental
2.1 Material
For the research bleached 100% cotton fabric (Teks-
tina d. o. o., Ajdovščina) was used. e Japanese
knotweed leaves were collected and delivered by
SNAGA d. o. o., washed with water to remove the
dirt, air dried at room temperature and grounded
into powder.
2.2 Preparation of extracts
e extracts were prepared in two extraction media,
i.e., deionised water (H2O) and 0.5 M NaOH. e
weighted leaves powder (at concentrations of 10, 20
and 50 g/L) was put in cold extraction medium and
heated to boiling. e extraction of the dye took 60
minutes. A erwards, the mixture was ltered. e
extract was further used as a dyeing bath.
2.3 Cationic pretreatment
Prior to dyeing, cotton samples were treated with
5% Denimcol FIX-OS (CHT, Switzerland) as a cati-
onic agent. e cationic bath included 2.5 mL/L of
32% NaOH. e cationic pretreatment was per-
formed at a liquor-to-goods ratio of 10:1, at 50 °C,
for 20 min. e cotton fabric was neutralised a er-
wards with 5 mL/L of 30% CH3COOH at room
temperature for 5 min.
2.4 Dyeing
Dyeing of untreated and cationic pretreated samples
was performed in a GyroWash laboratory machine
(James Heal, Great Britain), which simulates ex-
haustion dyeing. Dyeing was performed in the pre-
pared extracts at the liquor-to-goods ratio of 20:1,
at 60 °C, for 60 min. A er dyeing, the samples were
washed with water and air-dried at room tempera-
ture.
2.5 Wash test
A wash fastness test of dyed samples was performed
in a GyroWash laboratory machine according to the
ISO 105-C06:2010 standard method. e samples
were washed 10 times at 40 °C for 45 min. e
washing solution contained 4 g/L of Standards De-
velopment Committee (SDC) standard detergent.
A er washing, the samples were rinsed twice in dis-
tilled water at 40 °C and then air-dried at room tem-
perature.
2.6 Colour measurements
e colour (CIELAB values) of dyed samples was
measured on a re ectance spectrophotometer (Da-
tacolor Spectra ash SF 600 PLUS-CT). All meas-
urements were performed using four layers of fabric
with a 9 mm aperture, wherein the specular compo-
nent was under D65 illumination and a 10° stand-
ard observer. An average of 10 measurements was
recorded for each sample.
3 Results and discussion
e results of the colour measurements (Table 1)
show that the colour is dependent on three parame-
ters, i.e., the initial concentration of F. japon i c a
leaves for extract preparation, the extraction medi-
um (H2O or NaOH), and the cationic pretreatment
of cotton.
183
Cationic Pretreatment of Cotton and Dyeing with Fallopia
Japonica Leaves
Tekstilec, 2019, 62(3), 181-186
Table 1: CIELAB values and photos of cotton samples dyed with dye extracted from F. japonica leaves
Extraction
medium cextr [g/l] Cotton
pretreatment L*a*b*Photo
H2O
10
Without 83.92 0.96 20.68
Cationic 70.98 1.80 10.80
20
Without 79.97 2.28 11.91
Cationic 64.59 1.39 11.14
50
Without 76.23 2.20 14.04
Cationic 60.66 2.68 13.20
0.5 M NaOH
10
Without 72.18 6.14 16.54
Cationic 46.71 6.23 18.38
20
Without 65.76 7.25 19.40
Cationic 43.49 7.41 17.55
50
Without 60.05 9.13 18.35
Cationic 40.17 9.91 19.20
184 Cationic Pretreatment of Cotton and Dyeing with Fallopia
Japonica Leaves
Tekstilec, 2019, 62(3), 181-186
Increasing the concentration of F. japon i c a leaves
for extract preparation caused the dyed sample to
become darker (CIE L* decreases), redder (CIE a*
increases) and yellower (CIE b* increases), regard-
less of the medium used for extract preparation or
cationic pretreatment. e samples that were dyed
in extract prepared in NaOH medium were darker
and redder. e value on the yellow–green axis dif-
fered according to the concentration of the used ex-
tract; i.e., at a lower concentration (10 g/L) the sam-
ples were less yellow (CIE b* decreases) and at
higher concentrations (20 and 50 g/L) the samples
were more yellow. In the case where the samples
were pretreated, the samples that were dyed in
NaOH extract were darker, redder and yellower for
all used extract concentrations. e cationic pre-
treatment of cotton in uenced the colour of dyed
samples mostly on the lightness axis (CIE L*), as the
pretreated samples were much darker than the un-
treated samples. e e ect was even more pro-
nounced for those samples that were dyed in extract
prepared in NaOH medium. e dye that is present
in F. j a p onica is emodin [1]. Figure 1 presents the
reaction of emodin with NaOH.
e newly formed compound is red in colour, water
soluble and more substantive to cellulose. e dye
was ionized to yield a negatively charged anion dye
with positively charged sodium cations [12]. e
negative potential of the cellulose (cotton bers) can
repulse the anions in the dye; however, the large
amount of sodium ion content ensures that the neg-
ative potential of the bers is overcome, so it is not
necessary to put any additional common salt in the
dyeing bath [12]. e cationic pretreatment (which
is a reactive polyammonium compound) of cotton
ensures that the bers have cationic sites onto which
anionic dyes can be more easily adsorbed; therefore,
the dyeability of the cotton is increased [5].
Table 2 presents the measured CIELAB values a er
10 repeated washings. In the case of untreated cot-
ton, the samples almost completely lost their color,
while the color remained in the cationic pretreated
samples. erefore, the cationic pretreated cotton,
which was dyed with natural dye extracted from F.
japonica leaves, had very good wash stability. In the
case where extract was prepared in NaOH medium,
the samples became lighter, less red and less yellow
a er washing. An interesting e ect a er washing
was observed for cationic pretreated samples dyed
with extract prepared in H2O medium. e value
on the lightness axis was decreased, meaning that
the samples became darker a er washing. e same
e ect was also observed in a study on dyeing cotton
with Goldenrod extract, where the fabric was preca-
tionised [5].
Figure 1: Reaction of emodin with NaOH
185
Cationic Pretreatment of Cotton and Dyeing with Fallopia
Japonica Leaves
Tekstilec, 2019, 62(3), 181-186
Table 2: CIELAB values and photos of cotton samples dyed with dye extracted from F. japonica leaves a er ten
repetitive washings
Extraction
medium cextr [g/l] Cotton
pretreatment L*a*b*Photo
H2O
10
Without 87.20 1.01 5.99
Cationic 62.08 3.11 19.89
20
Without 88.81 1.19 5.65
Cationic 50.87 2.31 12.29
50
Without 84.46 1.16 5.94
Cationic 48.22 2.07 14.26
0.5 M NaOH
10
Without 84.86 1.33 9.12
Cationic 56.59 4.83 16.14
20
Without 83.77 1.77 8.76
Cationic 50.58 6.28 18.66
50
Without 78.58 3.99 11.10
Cationic 45.28 9.21 20.25
186 Cationic Pretreatment of Cotton and Dyeing with Fallopia
Japonica Leaves
Tekstilec, 2019, 62(3), 181-186
4 Conclusion
e results of this study show that extract from F.
japonica leaves has great potential to be used for the
dyeing of cotton in di erent brown shades (from
light to very dark), depending on the amount of
leaves used for the extraction and cationic pretreat-
ment of cotton. e cationic pretreatment, which
rendered good wash stability, can be used in the
natural dyeing of cotton instead of traditional mor-
dants. e samples that were not pretreated with the
cationic agent were found to have very poor wash
stability.
Acknowledgments
e research was nancially supported by the project
UIA02-228 APPLAUSE (Alien Plant Species from
harmful to useful with citizens’ led activities) and
programme P2-0213 Textiles and Ecology.
References
1. GORJANC, Marija, SAVIĆ, Aleksandar, TOPA-
LIĆ-TRIVUNOVIĆ Ljiljana, MOZETIČ, Mi-
ran, ZAPLOTNIK, Rok, VESEL, Alenka, GRU-
JIĆ, Dragana. Dyeing of plasma treated cotton
and bamboo rayon with Fallopia japonica
extract. Cellulose, 2016, 23(3), 2221–2228, doi:
10.1007/s10570-016-0951-9.
2. SAMANTA, Ashis Kumar, KONAR, Adwaita.
Dyeing of textiles with natural dyes. In Natural
dyes. Edited by Emriye Akcakoca Kumbasar. Ri-
jeka : IntechOpen, 2011, pp. 29–56, doi: 10.
5772/21341.
3. GORJANC, Marija, MOZETIČ, Miran, VESEL,
Alenka, ZAPLOTNIK, Rok. Natural dyeing and
UV protection of plasma treated cotton. e Eu-
ropean Physical Journal D, 2018, 72(3), 41, doi.
org/10.1140/epjd/e2017-80680-9.
4. KAMPEERAPAPPUN, Piyaporn, PHATTARA-
RITTIGUL, Trongsu, JITTRONG, Sutida, KUL-
LACHOD, Dararat. E ect of chitosan and mor-
dants on dyeability of cotton fabrics with Ruellia
tuberosa linn. Chiang Mai Journal of Science,
2011, 38(1), 95–104.
5. TOPIĆ, Taja, GORJANC, Marija, KERT, Mate-
ja. e in uence of the treatment process on the
dyeability of cotton fabric using goldenrod dye.
Tekstilec, 2018, 61(3), 192–200, doi: 10.14502/
Tekstilec2018.61.192-200.
6. GORJANC, Marija, MOZETIČ, Miran. Modi -
cation of brous polymers by gaseous plasma. Sa-
arbrücken : LAP Lambert Academic Publishing,
2014, p. 152.
7. SAJED, Toktam, HAJI, Aminoddin, MEHRIZI,
Mohammad Khajeh, NASIRI BOROUMAND,
Majid. Modi cation of wool protein ber with
plasma and dendrimer: E ects on dyeing with
cochineal. International Journal of Biological
Macromolecules 2018, 107 (Part A), 642–653,
doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2017.09.038.
8. LIM, Sang-Hoon, HUDSON, Samuel M. Revi-
ew of chitosan and its derivatives as antimicro-
bial agents and their uses as textile chemicals.
Journal of Macromolecular Science, Part C, 2003,
43(2), 223–269, doi: https://doi.org/10.1081/
MC-120020161.
9. ISLAM, Shahid-ul, BUTOLA, BS, ROY, Ana-
suya. Chitosan polysaccharide as a renewable
functional agent to develop antibacterial, antio-
xidant activity and colourful shades on wool
dyed with tea extract polyphenols. International
Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2018, 120,
1999–2006, doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.09.167.
10. DEV GIRI, V. R., VENUGOPAL, J, SUDHA, S,
DEEPIKA, G, RAMAKRISHNA, S. Dyeing and
antimicrobial characteristics of chitosan treated
wool fabrics with henna dye. Carbohydrate
Polymers, 2009, 75(4), 646–650, doi: 10.1016/j.
carbpol.2008.09.003.
11. CAMPOS, J, DÍAZ-GARCÍA, P, MONTAVA, I,
BONET-ARACIL, M, BOU-BELDA, E. Chito-
san pretreatment for cotton dyeing with black
tea. IOP Conference Series-Materials Science and
Engineering, 2017, 254: UNSP 112001, doi: 10.
1088/1757-899X/254/11/112001.
12. ASPLAND, J. Richard. Textile dyeing and colora-
tion. American association of textile chemists
and colorists, Research Triangle Park : Ameri-
can Association of Textile Chemists and Color-
ists, 1997, p. 410.
