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Solomon Sime Tessema. Physicochemical Characterization and Evaluation of Castor Oil (R. communis) for Hair Biocosmetics

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This study reports the characterization of oil from Castor (Ricinus Communius L) seed oil. The biocosmetic potential of the castor oil was evaluated for hair through physico-chemical characterization. The various physicochemical parameters (iodine value, pH value, specific gravity, refractive index, peroxide value, etc) were tested in accordance with American standard testing method specifications and compared with argan oil. Accordingly, the parameters tested comply with some journals dealing with cosmetics. Biocosmetic has high potential as a raw material for synthetic cosmetics or blend stock substitution for cosmetics without any modification. The advantage of castor oil over other oils (sunflower, olive, soy bean, corn) would lie in the oil price.
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American Journal of Applied Chemistry
2019; 7(4): 110-115
http://www.sciencepublishinggroup.com/j/ajac
doi: 10.11648/j.ajac.20190704.11
ISSN: 2330-8753 (Print); ISSN: 2330-8745 (Online)
Physicochemical Characterization and Evaluation of Castor
Oil (R. communis) for Hair Biocosmetics
Solomon Sime Tessema
Department of Chemistry, Arba Minch University, Arba Minch, Ethiopia
Email address:
To cite this article:
Solomon Sime Tessema. Physicochemical Characterization and Evaluation of Castor Oil (R. communis) for Hair Biocosmetics. American
Journal of Applied Chemistry. Vol. 7, No. 4, 2019, pp. 110-115. doi: 10.11648/j.ajac.20190704.11
Received: January 26, 2019; Accepted: July 17, 2019; Published: July 30, 2019
Abstract:
This study reports the characterization of oil from Castor (Ricinus Communius L) seed oil. The biocosmetic
potential of the castor oil was evaluated for hair through physico-chemical characterization. The various physicochemical
parameters (iodine value, pH value, specific gravity, refractive index, peroxide value, etc) were tested in accordance with
American standard testing method specifications and compared with argan oil. Accordingly, the parameters tested comply with
some journals dealing with cosmetics. Biocosmetic has high potential as a raw material for synthetic cosmetics or blend stock
substitution for cosmetics without any modification. The advantage of castor oil over other oils (sunflower, olive, soy bean,
corn) would lie in the oil price.
Keywords:
Caster Oil, Castor Beans, Biocosmetic, Nonedible Oil, Soxhlet Extractor, Argan Oil
1. Introduction
History tells us that, a long time ago, plants and plant
products have been used as the primary source of food,
shelter and transport materials, clothing, fragrances, flavors
and ingredients of medicinal substances for humankind [1].
Today plant products, essential oils, plant extracts, natural
resins and their preparations have a wide range of
applications mainly in perfume and cosmetic, food, aroma
and pharmaceutical industries. This large spectrum of uses
therefore stimulated researchers to conduct some studies on
natural products [2]. The methods used in the analysis of
plants that started at the end of the 19
th
century, only allowed
investigations on crystalline constituents isolated from these
extracts. Subsequent developments on vacuum distillation
techniques provided the possibility to determine the volatile
components of these extracts [3].
Oil extracted from plant sources has a rich history of use
by local people as a source of food, energy, medicine and for
cosmetic applications. It has been used in the production of
lubricants, soaps and personal care products, as well as in the
topical treatment of various conditions such as hair dandruff,
muscle spasms, varicose veins and wounds [4, 5]. In recent
years, demand for seed oils as ingredients for food, cosmetics
has greatly increased as industry seeks natural alternatives.
During the last century, synthetic substitutes have become
available and have been used to replace natural seed oils.
Due to toxic effects of synthetic oils, there is a growing trend
to replace them and revert to the use of natural oils in the
cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries [6]. There is
increasing consumer demand for high-quality cosmetic
products of natural origin which industry is responding to.
Natural oils are ideally suited to satisfy this need due to their
high fatty acid content.
In this study, the use of castor oil obtained from castor
seed for Biocosmetics will be evaluated through its
physicochemical parameters because castor seed is
economically viable and it is easily obtained from the local
market.
Castor oil is plant oil derived from the castor bean.
Although it's often thought of as an unpleasant laxative,
castor oil has beneficial uses for the hair and skin. Despite
being oil, it actually has cleansing and antibacterial
properties that make it a popular ingredient in soaps and it
can be used alternatively to benefit the skin and hair [1].
It is also a component in a facial cleansing routine called
the oil cleansing method, which is considered an alternative
to traditional skin-care regimens. The theory behind the oil
cleansing method is that "washing" the face with oils will
help get rid of dirt and oil better than washing with soap and
111 Solomon Sime Tessema: Physicochemical Characterization and Evaluation of Castor
Oil (R. communis) for Hair Biocosmetics
water, because oil dissolves other oil more effectively.
Although this theory has not been scientifically proven, the
oil cleansing method may be worth a try if you're unsatisfied
with your current skin-care products. Castor oil is used due to
its cleansing and anti-inflammatory properties, but may
actually dry out some skin types; to clean your skin with the
oil cleansing method, mix a small amount of castor oil with
an equal amount of olive oil and massage into your skin [3].
1.1. Castor Seed
R. communis (the only species of the monotypic genus
Ricinus) belongs to the Euphorbiaceae, or spurge, family,
containing a vast number of plants native to tropics (where it
grows wild and considered as merely a weed or as a shade-
giving agent for more sensitive low growing cash crops). It is
a warm-season plant indigenous to eastern Africa and
probably originated in Ethiopia (UNIDO, 1974) [4].
It is herbaceous annals, with height displayed as
genetically dwarf, semi-dwarf or tall ranging from one to
several meters and warm region perennial (with cultivation
area between 40
o
N and 40
o
S), but is now cultivated up to
52
o
N. Castor can survive under rather dry conditions because
of its very strong root system, its resistance to loss and its
ability to withstand substantial water stress. As a peasant
crop in the warmer regions of the world, castor can be grown
almost anywhere if land is available, and this is perhaps its
greatest virtue (the castor plant can be considered as an easily
cultivated, adaptable cash crop, on well drained soils in frost-
free seasons. It grows best in areas with clear sunny days and
without untimely frosts. In such circumstances, it grows from
sea level at the coast to high inland mountains. One of the
reasons that castor plants have become so successful is their
extremely viable seed that germinates readily in a variety of
soils. More often castor is inter-planted with crops, sown
round the borders and margins of fields on areas unsuitable
for other crops [4].
Varieties of castor should be grown at distances of at least
30 m from each other, since it is subject to cross pollination,
and that open pollination may cause differences in the size
and degree of maturity of the pods and seeds formed on the
same plant. The most favorable rate of annual rainfall
requirement is from 500 to 800 mm (UNIDO, 1974) and any
altitude from sea level to 1500 masl. The plant can grow well
on very poor soil; whilst a very fertile soil may even render a
lower yield of seed (chemical fertilization for castor is not
normally recommended).
The common seed yield was from 1000 to 1,500 kg per ha,
while new varieties obtained with yield of 5,000 to 6,000 kg
per ha and 50 to 52 percent oil content. The castor meal is
poisonous, since it contains the toxic protein ricin, the effect
of which drives from dissolution of erythrocytes, it is even
more poisonous than hydrocyanic acid. The unique
characteristics of castor derives from it is nearly 90%
ricinoleic acid (C
17
H
32
OHCOOH) content. It has highest
viscosity and highest density of all oils (UNIDO, 1974).
Castor has numerous industrial uses, namely; for production
of paints, and varnishes, nylon type synthetic polymers,
resins and lubricants, cosmetics, textile dyeing, insecticides,
in leather industry as well as for medicinal purposes-as a
laxative. Leaves of the castor plants have been used for
feeding silkworms and cattle, as human food (where fresh
green food is scarce), the branches and stem can be used for
the production of low grade paper as well as for fuel. The
residual meal after oil extraction contains 5% nitrogen that
used as a fertilizer, and 30-45% protein that, if detoxified,
can be used as a feed [3].
1.2. Castor Oil and Its Uses
Castor oil (ricinus oil, phorboyl, tangantangan oil) is
natural oil derived from the seeds of the castor bean by cold
pressing (for medicinal use) or hot pressing (for industrial
purposes). Chemically, castor oil is a triglyceride
characterized by a high content of ricinolein (a glyceride of
12-hydroxy-9-octadecenoic acid). It has the approximate
fatty acid composition of ricinoleic acid (87%), oleic acid
(7%), linoleic acid (3%), palmitic acid (2%), stearic acid
(1%), with trace amounts of dihydroxystearic acid. As a
home remedy, castor oil is used widely for a number of
problems and ailments. To name a few, castor oil helps deal
with problems related to hair, skin, joints and intestine. Edgar
Cayce, a medical intuitive, recommended castor oil packs for
treatment of many problems and played a vital role in making
castor oil popular in 1940s and 1950s [7].
Figure 1. Castor oil (right) from caster seed (left).
1.3. Castor Oil for Hair
The use of castor oil for hair has its roots in ancient Egypt,
according to the e-museum at Minnesota State University.
Egyptian women used castor oil, along with rosemary, sweet
almond and fir oils, to stimulate hair growth due to its fatty
acid and Vitamin E content. When applied on hair and scalp
it charges up blood circulation and frees the scalp of any
bacterial and fungal infections and dandruff. The usage
checks hair loss and split ends. The oil traps the moisture of
the hair and prevents it from becoming dry. The same theory
comes into force when castor oil is applied on eyebrows.
Topical application of castor oil helps in thickening of
eyebrows. Today, it's recommended in a manual on African
children's skin and hair care from the University of
Pittsburgh. In infants of African descent, castor oil can be
used as a hair conditioner; apply after shampooing and comb
through with a soft-bristle baby brush [5, 6].
American Journal of Applied Chemistry 2019; 7(4): 110-115 112
1.4. Castor Oil as Laxative
Castor oil is known for its laxative benefits. When taken
orally, ricinoleic acid gets released in the intestine and then it
starts functioning as a laxative. Its hotness initiates action by
digesting the undigested food residue and cleanses the system
by helping in proper bowel movement. Many women tend to
complain about constipation after delivery. If they consume
castor oil prior to going to bed at night, the acid helps in
proper bowel movement [6].
1.5. Castor Oil for Skin
Application of castor oil on skin keeps it hydrated and free
from infections, thus a remedy for acne. It is also used to do
away with dry skin of hands and legs. It is used to treat
ringworms and clear away stretch marks formed after
delivery. Regular use helps in keeping off wrinkles. Using
the oil locally treats painful cracks in nipples. It also heals
cuts and wounds. It can come into help to treat severe cases
of diaper rash in babies.
Castor oil is considered minimally toxic when
administered orally to humans; the estimated lethal oral dose
is 1-2 pints of undiluted oil. Several instances of sensitization
to castor oil in cosmetics have been reported, including an
allergic reaction to a make-up remover, and contact
dermatitis caused by use of a lipstick containing castor oil.
Hypersensitivity reactions such as angioedema, rhinitis,
asthma, and scarlatiniform rashes have been reported in
factory workers involved in the extraction of castor oil, or in
association with ingesting it [6].
1.6. Physicochemical Properties of Castor Oil
1.6.1. Iodine Value
The iodine value of an oil or butter is a measure of the
saturation of the fatty acids. As we go up on the iodine value
scale, we'll see more double bonds or more unsaturation in
the oils. Something like coconut oil, which has a high degree
of saturated fatty acids, will have a lower iodine value (10.4)
than grape seed oil (135) and caster seed oil (above 100)
which have a lot of unsaturated fatty acids. For the most part,
looking at the iodine value of your oil or butter can give you
a lot of information about its shelf life. The lower the iodine
value, the longer this oil is likely to last [7].
1.6.2. Saponification Value
High saponification value indicated that oils are normal
triglycerides and very useful in production of liquid soap and
shampoo industries. Saponification number represents the
number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide or sodium
hydroxide required to saponify 1g of fat under the conditions
specified. It is a measure of the average molecular weight (or
chain length) of all the fatty acids present. The long chain
fatty acids found in fats have low saponification value
because they have a relatively fewer number of carboxylic
functional groups per unit mass of the fat as compared to
short chain fatty acids [8].
1.6.3. Refractive Index
The refractive index of fats and oils is sensitive to
composition. The refractive index of a fat increases with
increasing chain length of fatty acids in the triglycerides or
with increasing unsaturation. This makes it an excellent spot
test for uniformity of compositions of oils and fats. Further,
the refractive index is an additive as well as constructive
property, thus it can be used as a control procedure during
hydrogenation processes [1].
1.6.4. Acid Number
To maintain healthy skin, achieving a slightly acidic pH of
around 5.5 is critical. When we wash our skin with water
(typically pH 6-9) or cleansing products (typically pH 7-11),
pH of the skin's surface raises, and it takes time for the skin
to restore its protective "Acid Mantle". Therefore it is
recommended to use skin care products with acidic pH value
(typically pH 3-6) that help to restore this natural defense
mechanism quicker. For the body it is usual to apply skin
moisturizing creams or lotions. Facial skin tends to be more
sensitive, more severely impacted by the environment
(sunlight, cold/hot air, wind, pollution etc) and more inclined
to develop breakouts, impurities or inflammations. Therefore,
it is recommended to apply toner (typically pH 3-5) after
cleansing that normalizes the pH of the skin and acts on
individual skin-type related problems like dryness, oiliness,
sensitivity etc. Moisturizing product is applied after the toner
to ensure enough supply of moisturizing, nourishing and
antioxidant ingredients to the skin [10].
1.6.5. Peroxide Value
Oxidation is the most important cause of oil and fat
deterioration. The primary lipid oxidation products are
hydroperoxides, which are very unstable and further react to
form secondary products such as hydrocarbons, alcohols,
ketones and aldehydes, which can be oxidized to carboxylic
acids [5, 6]. The peroxide value is useful in monitoring the
initial stage of oxidation, because primary oxidation products
are measured [7]. The changes in fats and oils after heating or
frying procedures have been the subject of numerous studies
and experimental investigations [8]. All chemical changes of
fats and oils at elevated temperatures originate in oxidation,
hydrolysis, polymerisation, isomerisation or cyclisation
reactions [9; 10]. These reactions affect the sensorial,
nutritional and safety properties of oil [11]. All these
reactions may be promoted by oxygen, moisture, traces of
metal and free radicals [12]. Several factors, such as contact
with air, temperature and length of heating, type of vessel,
degree of oil unsaturation, and the presence of pro-oxidants
or antioxidants, affect the overall performance of oil [13].
2. Experimental Method
2.1. Extraction of Oils from R. communis Seeds
2.1.1. R. communis Seeds Preparation for Extraction
The castor seeds used for this work were purchased from a
market at Arba Minch town of the SNNP State of Ethiopia. R.
113 Solomon Sime Tessema: Physicochemical Characterization and Evaluation of Castor
Oil (R. communis) for Hair Biocosmetics
communis seeds had some foreign materials and dirt which
was separated by hand picking. The cleaned seeds were sun
dried in the open, until the casing splits and sheds the seeds.
The beans were further dried in the oven at 60°C for 7hrs to a
constant weight in order to reduce its moisture content, which
was initially at about 5 to 7%. The separation of the shell
from the nibs (cotyledon) was carried out using tray to blow
away the cover in order to achieve very high yield. The seeds
were crushed into a paste (cake) with mortar and pestle in
order to weaken or rupture the cell walls to release R.
communis fat for extraction.
2.1.2. Castor Seed Oil Extraction
10g of the paste (cake) sample was taken for extraction in
laboratory scale, as per the following procedure. The
grounded (finely powdered) sample was dried for 7h at 40°C.
For the continuous extraction of the oil, the soxhlet apparatus
was employed and 200 mL hexane was used as solvent in the
extraction process. The soxhlet device temperature was
adjusted at 60°C and the overall process lasted 24h. At the
end of the process, the oil was separated from the organic
solvent using a rotary vacuum evaporator, dried at 60°C and
weighed. Yield was calculated on dry weight basis.
2.1.3. Characterization of Castor Oil
i Determination of the Castor Oil Content (% w/w)
Oil extraction was conducted at the Arba Minch University,
Chemistry laboratory. Soxhlet extraction method (Horowitz,
1984), was used with n-hexane as extracting solvent. Each
extraction was preceded for 4 hrs. It was then removed from
the apparatus, cooled in the desiccators and solvent removed
using Rotavapor (BUCHI). The experiment was conducted in
triplicate. The weight of oil extracted was determined for
each replicate, and the mean value was recorded and the
percentage of oil extracted was determined using (Eq 1).
Sample weight was taken dry base, based on the moisture
content determined and the data was tabulated.
   (1)
Where, W
o
= Weight of oil extracted,
W
s
= Weight of sample (dry base),
% of Hexane recovered= remain hexane (mL) / volume
used for extraction *100.
ii Determination of Iodine value (IV)
Wij’s Method was applied to determine IV (Lawson,
1985). The weighed amount (0.25 g) of substance (W) was
dissolved in 15 mL carbon tetrachloride in a conical flask.
25.00 mL of 0.2N Wijs solution (prepared by dissolving 9g
of iodine trichloride in a mixture of 700 mL glacial acetic
acid (purity at least 99%) and 300 mL carbon tetrachloride)
was added from a burette. The flask was closed, mixed, and
allowed to stand in the dark at about 20°C for 1hr. After
standing, 20 mL potassium iodide solution and
approximately 150 mL water were added. The iodine
liberated by the process was titrated with sodium thiosulphate
solution while shaking and starch indicator was added
towards the end of titration (and volume Va was recorded).
Blank determination was made with the same quantities of
reagents at the same time and under the same conditions (and
volume V
b
was recorded). Finally the iodine value (IV) was
calculated using
 
 !"#
$
(2)
Where, W = weight (g) of sample taken.
Va =Volume (mL) of thiosulphate solution used in test.
Vb =Volume (mL) of thiosulphate solution used in blank.
N =Normality of thiosulphate solution.
iii Determination of Saponification Number (SN)
The SN determination was conducted by dissolving the fat
or oil in an ethanol solution which contains a known excess
of KOH. The solution was then heated so that the reaction
goes to completion. The unreacted KOH was then
determined by adding an indicator and titrating the sample
with HCl (Lawson, 1985). About 40 g filtered oil (W) was
weighed into a 200 mL conical flask with an accuracy of
1mg. 50 mL of 0.5 N ethanolic potassium hydroxide solution
was added to the cold oil and the reflux condenser attached to
the flask. The mixture was heated, and as soon as the ethanol
boils, the flask was occasionally shaken until the oil was
completely dissolved, and the solution boiled for half an hour.
After the oil was completely dissolved, 1mL
phenolphthalein indicator was added and the hot soap
solution obtained was slowly titrated with 0.5N hydrochloric
acid (and volume Va was recorded). And a blank
determination was carried out upon the same quantity of
potassium hydroxide solution at the same time and under the
same conditions (and volume Vb was recorded). The final
result was calculated using.
 %
& !"#
$
(3)
Where, W = weight (g) of oil taken.
V
a
= Volume (ml) of hydrochloric acid used in test.
V
b
= Volume (ml) of hydrochloric acid used in blank.
N = Normality of hydrochloric acid.
iv Determination of Cetane Number (CN)
Determinations using empirical formulas (Kalayasiri et al.,
1996) using the results for Saponification number (SN) and
Iodine value (IV) of oils, the CN was calculated with the help
of:
% '() *
&+&,
-
. //0  (4)
v Determination of Specific Gravity (SG)
The sample was filled into graduated cylinder (250 mL)
and its temperature was recorded. Hydrometer was used to
measure the SG of the fuels specified. Then, temperature
correction factors (according to tables from (ASTM D 1250-
80, 1980; Petroleum Measurement Tables, 1963)) were
applied to convert the measured specific gravities to the
reference temperature of 60/60 °F and densities were taken at
temperatures of 15°C and 20°C.
vi Determination of Moisture Content
50 g of the clean sample was weighed and dried in an oven
American Journal of Applied Chemistry 2019; 7(4): 110-115 114
at 40°C for 7 hrs and the weight was taken after every 2 hrs.
The procedure was repeated until a constant weight was
obtained. At the end of every 2 hrs, the sample was removed
from the oven and placed in the desiccator for 30 min. to cool.
The weight of the sample was then recorded and the
percentage moisture content was calculated from the formula;
123
4!5
5
 (5)
Where W
1
original weight of the sample before drying.
W
2
weight of the sample after drying.
vii Determination of pH Value
20 mg of the sample was poured in to a clean dry 25 mL
beaker and 13 mL of distilled water was added to the sample
in the beaker and stirred slowly. It was then cooled in cold
water bath to 25°C. The pH electrode was standardized with
buffer solution and the electrode immersed into the sample
and the pH value was recorded.
viii Determination of Refractive Index
Refractmeter was used in this determination of refractive
index. Few drops of the sample were transferred into the
glass slide of the refractometer at 25.9°C. This was done in
triplicate and the mean value noted and recorded as the
refractive index.
3. Results and Discussions
The castor oil was examined in order to evaluate its use as
a blend stock in hair cosmetics. All properties (Specific
gravity at 20°C, Acid value, pH value, Iodine value, Peroxide
value, Cetane number, Moisture content) of the oil were
evaluated in accordance with the laboratory test methods and
the results are summarized in table 1.
Table 1. Summary of Physico-chemical parameters and results of Castor Oil and Argan Oil.
Parameters Results
Cosmetic argan oil Castor seed oil
Specific Gravity 0.967 1.05
Saponification Value [mg KOH/g of Oil] - 181
Iodine Value g [I
2
/100g of Oil] 87.12 80
pH value 6.1 6.0
Refractive Index - 7.5
Moisture Content - 5.93%
Seed Oil Content - 47.6%
Cetane number - 33.8
Table 1 presents the result of the yield and the
physicochemical parameters of castor seed oil. The result
obtained for the specific gravity was 1.05. This was in line
with 0.9587 for argan oil reported by Salunke, et. al (1992)
[14]. The refractive index was determined to be 7.5. This
value is an indication of the level of saturation of the oil.
The PH of the sample was 6.0, the low level was an
indicative of the presence of reasonable quantity of free
fatty acid in the oil, which is a good indicator of the
advantageous utilization of the oil in soap making. All this
physical parameters is an attribute of the oil to be used for
cosmetic purposes. This can be used to check the level of
oxidative deterioration of the oil by enzymatic or chemical
oxidation. The saponification value of the oil was 181 mg
KOH/g oil. This project reported that the castor oil is good
in such an areas as soap making and in the detection of
adulteration in the oil. However, it was within the range
value of 156 to 185 mg KOH/g oil reported by Wejsis,
(1971). The iodine value of the oil (80 wij’s) shows the oil
to be in the semi-drying category. This is further confirmed
by the fact that the viscosity of the oil increases gradually
when it is exposed to air. This is the result of the reactions
of the multiple bonds present in the chemical compounds in
the oil [15].
4. Conclusions
The result of the investigation carried out in the present
study is in line with the result of other paper worked on
similar species for similar purpose [16]. This confirms that
castor seed oil can be used as an alternative cosmetic for
hair, skin, etc. The oil contains fatty acid and Vitamin E
which are useful for stimulation of hair growth. When
applied on hair and scalp it charges up blood circulation and
frees the scalp of any bacterial and fungal infections and
dandruff. The usage checks hair loss and split ends. The oil
traps the moisture of the hair and prevents it from becoming
dry.
Acknowledgements
The author is grateful to Arba Minch University College of
Natural Science department of Chemistry for financial and
laboratory facilities.
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