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Introductory Chapter: Textile Manufacturing Processes

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  • Iqra University Karachi

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Introduction Textile fibers provided an integral component in modern society and physical structure known for human comfort and sustainability. Man is a friend of fashion in nature. The desire for better garment and apparel resulted in the development of textile fiber production and textile manufacturing process. Primarily the natural textile fibers meet the requirements for human consumption in terms of the comfort and aesthetic trends. Cotton, wool, and silk were the important natural fibers for human clothing articles, where cotton for its outstanding properties and versatile utilization was known as the King Cotton. Cotton is an important natural fiber produced in Asian and American continent since the last around 5000 years in the countries including the USA, India, China, Turkey, Pakistan, Brazil, etc. [1]. The advancement of fiber manufacturing introduced several man-made fibers for conventional textile products; however, cotton is to date a leading textile fiber in home textiles and clothing articles. The chemistry of cotton fiber is the principal source of interesting and useful properties required in finished textile products [2]. Strength, softness, absorbency, dyeing and printing properties, comfort, air permeability, etc. are the important properties of cotton to remain an important textile fiber in the market. By 2018 cotton fiber was significant with a market share of 39.47% as raw material in textile products. Cotton fiber grown with increased environment-friendly properties is called organic cotton. It is grown without using any synthetic chemicals or pesticides, fertilizers, etc. Organic cotton is produced through crop with the processing stages in an ecological environment. Turkey, the USA, and India are the main countries producing organic cotton. The other important natural fibers used in conventional textile products are wool and silk. Wool fiber is known for its warmer properties and used mainly in winter wear mainly. Wool-based textile items are projected to witness a CAGR of 3.7%, in terms of volume, from 2019 to 2025. Importantly, wool fiber is renewable and recyclable, which supports its demand in this industry [3]. Silk fiber is known for its unmatchable softness and low linear density. Relative to cotton and wool, natural silk is not produced in significant quantity. It is indicated to have the highest revenue growth rate of 4.67% from 2019 to 2025. A recent study of textile fiber market share by the IHS Markit has shown the synthetic fibers consumed highest (mainly represented by polyester and nylon fibers) followed by cotton, cellulosics, and wool fibers (Figure 1) [4]. China is the major manufacturer of synthetic fibers. Excluding polyolefin fibers, China produces around 66% of synthetic fibers in 2015.
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Chapter
Introductory Chapter: Textile
Manufacturing Processes
FaheemUddin
. Introduction
Textile fibers provided an integral component in modern society and physical
structure known for human comfort and sustainability. Man is a friend of fashion
in nature. The desire for better garment and apparel resulted in the development of
textile fiber production and textile manufacturing process.
Primarily the natural textile fibers meet the requirements for human con-
sumption in terms of the comfort and aesthetic trends. Cotton, wool, and silk
were the important natural fibers for human clothing articles, where cotton
for its outstanding properties and versatile utilization was known as the King
Cotton.
Cotton is an important natural fiber produced in Asian and American conti-
nent since the last around years in the countries including the USA, India,
China, Turkey, Pakistan, Brazil, etc. []. The advancement of fiber manufacturing
introduced several man-made fibers for conventional textile products; however,
cotton is to date a leading textile fiber in home textiles and clothing articles. The
chemistry of cotton fiber is the principal source of interesting and useful proper-
ties required in finished textile products []. Strength, softness, absorbency,
dyeing and printing properties, comfort, air permeability, etc. are the important
properties of cotton to remain an important textile fiber in the market. By 
cotton fiber was significant with a market share of . as raw material in
textile products.
Cotton fiber grown with increased environment-friendly properties is called
organic cotton. It is grown without using any synthetic chemicals or pesticides,
fertilizers, etc. Organic cotton is produced through crop with the processing stages
in an ecological environment. Turkey, the USA, and India are the main countries
producing organic cotton.
The other important natural fibers used in conventional textile products are
wool and silk. Wool fiber is known for its warmer properties and used mainly in
winter wear mainly. Wool-based textile items are projected to witness a CAGR of
., in terms of volume, from  to . Importantly, wool fiber is renewable
and recyclable, which supports its demand in this industry [].
Silk fiber is known for its unmatchable softness and low linear density. Relative
to cotton and wool, natural silk is not produced in significant quantity. It is indi-
cated to have the highest revenue growth rate of . from  to .
A recent study of textile fiber market share by the IHS Markit has shown the
synthetic fibers consumed highest (mainly represented by polyester and nylon
fibers) followed by cotton, cellulosics, and wool fibers (Figure ) []. China is the
major manufacturer of synthetic fibers. Excluding polyolefin fibers, China pro-
duces around  of synthetic fibers in .
Textile Manufacturing Processes
The textile manufacturing processes are largely required by the fashion segment
in the global textile market. The large amount of textile products, demanded by
fashion, accounted for more than  of textile product market. Fashion market
is followed by technical textiles and household products. Grand View Research
indicated fashion, technical textiles, and household as the top three sectors by
application for the global textile market (Figure ) [].
Compound annual growth rate of . is expected over the years –in
the global textile market. This market was estimated at USD .billion in .
The growth is significantly expected in the apparel sector. China and India will
remain the leading countries to experience this growth. Increasing urban popula-
tion with rising disposable income is the main source of higher growth in apparel
consumption.
The textile manufacturing processes in the global textile industry are producing
the textile yarn, fiber, fabric, and finished products including apparels. The global
textile industry associated with the apparel and non-apparel products is expected
Figure 1.
Natural and man-made fibers consumed in the global textile market (IHS Markit [4]).
Figure 2.
Important textile fiber product types in the market in terms of application (Grand View Research) [3].
Introductory Chapter: Textile Manufacturing Processes
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.87968
to exceed USD billion in the next couple of years []. The textile industry
market is mainly represented by countries China, the USA, India, and the European
Union. China is indicated as the country with leading textile manufacturing facility
representing around one-fourth of the global textile industry.
An important aspect that has received increasing concern in textiles is the
release of environmental hazard from fiber and fabric process industries. Most
of the processes performed in textile manufacturing release significant toxic and
hazard waste to river water, soil and air. Particularly fiber and yarn manufacturing,
chemical finishing, pre-treatment processes, dyeing, printing, coating, and drying
operations are releasing toxic gases, carcinogenic materials, harmful vapor and lint,
and effluent discharge. Consequently, standards and regulations are evolved to limit
or eliminate the environmental depreciation.
. Textile manufacturing process
Today the textile industry encompasses a significant number and variety of
processes that are adding value in fiber. These processes may range over the yarn
making through the garment stitching, fabric embossing, and composite produc-
tion. However, considering the textile fiber as the basic building unit of any textile
product, the textile manufacturing may clearly be identified as the conventional
and technical textiles.
The conventional textile manufacturing process has a long history of converting
the natural fiber into useful products including fabric, home textiles, and apparel
and more recently into a technical textile through the utilization of special finishing
effects (Figure ).
The synthetic and semisynthetic fiber manufacturing is diversified with the uti-
lization of monomer, chemical agent, precursor, catalyst, and a variety of auxiliary
chemicals resulting in the formation of fiber or yarn. However, such man-made
Figure 3.
Textile manufacturing process from fiber to fabric.
Textile Manufacturing Processes
fibers are perceived as a separate specialized subject and beyond the scope of this
book. Therefore, the man-made fiber manufacturing is not discussed.
The innovation in textile manufacturing introduced variety in raw materials and
manufacturing processes. Therefore, process control to ensure product quality is
desired. Monitoring and controlling of process parameters may introduce reduction
in waste, costs, and environmental impact [].
All the processing stages in textile manufacturing from fiber production to
finished fabric are experiencing enhancement in process control and evaluation. It
includes textile fiber production and processing through blow room, carding, draw-
ing, and combing; and fabric production including knitted, woven, nonwoven, and
subsequent coloration and finishing and apparel manufacturing.
The global textile industry, in yarn and fabric production, has strong presence
and experiencing growth. In , the yarn and fabric market was valued at USD
.billion, where the fabric product was more in consumption and contributed
. and the yarn product was at .. The market consumption is forecasted for
growth at CAGR of . between  and , reaching to a market value of USD
.billion in  [].
Apparel production is another important area in textile manufacturing around
the textile industry chain. Probably the apparel is what an individual wear for the
purpose of body coverage, beautification, or comfort. Apparel and garment terms
are used interchangeably. However, the two terms may be differentiated as apparel
is an outerwear clothing and garment is any piece of clothing.
The study of apparel manufacturing market includes all the clothing articles
except leather, footwear, knitted product, and technical, household, and made-up
items. The worldwide apparel manufacturing market was valued at USD .bil-
lion in  and estimated to reach the level of USD billion in . The market
enhancement is forecasted to move from  to  at CAGR of ..
. Types of textile manufacturing process
. Yarn manufacturing
Traditionally, yarn manufacturing comprises a series of processes involved in
converting the fiber into yarn. It was rooted in natural fibers obtained from natural
plant or animal sources. Natural fibers are produced with natural impurities that
were removed from the yarn in subsequent pretreatment processes.
Possibly, cotton is the fiber that has rooted the yarn manufacturing from fiber
bale opening, followed by the series of continuous operations of blending, mix-
ing, cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, and spinning. Yarn manufacturing using
cotton fibers through a sequence of processing stages may be shown by process flow
diagram (Figure ) []. All these operations are mechanical and do not require
chemical application.
Each processing stage in yarn manufacturing utilized the machine of specialized
nature and provided quality effects in yarn production.
The advancement in fiber processing and machine technology for yarn manu-
facturing is continuous. The manual picking of cotton fiber is now replaced with
machine picking. However, conventional systems of blending, carding, drawing,
roving, and spinning are indicated important in the future [].
Yarn diameter, hairiness, linear density, permeability, strength properties, etc.
depend upon the end-use requirement of fabric to be produced for woven or knitted
end products (e.g., apparel or industrial fabrics), sewing thread, or cordage.
Introductory Chapter: Textile Manufacturing Processes
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.87968
Several interesting works on the production of yarn are available that provide
details of the material processing and technological control. Introductory spinning
technology is described by Lawrence []. It covers the rudiments of staple-yarn
technology, the manufacturing process, the raw materials, and the production
processes for short-staple, worsted, semi-worsted, woolen spinning, doubling,
and specialty yarn. Some of the useful advanced topics discussed are staple-yarn
technology, including new development in fiber preparation technology, carding
technology, roller drafting, ring spinning, open-end rotor spinning, and air-jet
spinning.
Peter described the yarn production technology in combination with the eco-
nomics []. The study is useful for yarn manufacturing and its development in
the textile industry. Important topics covered include review of yarn production,
filament yarn production, carding and prior processes for short-staple fibers, sliver
preparation, short-staple spinning, long-staple spinning, post-spinning processes,
quality control, and economics of staple-yarn production.
. Fabric manufacturing
Textile fabric is at least a two-dimensional structure produced by fiber/yarn
interlacing. The interlaced fibrous structure mainly used is woven, nonwoven, and
knitted. Traditionally, the weaving technology was the principal source for fabric
production.
The important types of woven fabric produced are the basic weaves, such as
plain or tabby, twill, and satin, and the fancy weaves, including pile, jacquard,
dobby, and gauze.
Knitted fabric is the second major type of fabric used following the woven. It
has a characteristic of accommodating the body contour and provided the ease
of movement. It is particularly a comfortable form of fabric structure for sports,
Figure 4.
Processing stages in cotton yarn manufacturing [8].
Textile Manufacturing Processes
casual wear, and undergarment. Knitted fabrics include weft types and the warp
types, raschel, and tricot.
Net, lace, and braid are other useful interlaced fabric structures. Nonwoven
fabrics are rapidly increasing in market consumption. These fabrics are finding
interesting uses in industrial and home applications. Nonwoven fabrics include
materials produced by felting and bonding.
Laminating processes are also increasing in importance, and fairly recent devel-
opments include needle weaving and the sewing-knitting process.
. Garment manufacturing
Garment is known as a piece of clothing. Garment design and manufacturing is
the combination of art and technology.
Garment manufacturing has seen several advancements in design develop-
ment, computer-aided manufacturing (CAD), and automation. However, the older
version of garment manufacturing process is still the main theme today—that is,
the cutting and joining of at least two pieces of fabric. The sewing machine has the
function of joining woven or cut-knitted fabrics. Garments are mostly produced by
sewing the pieces of fabric using a sewing machine. These machines are still based
on the primary format used.
Today the important topics in the current garment manufacturing industry
range over product development, production planning, and material selection. The
selection of garment design, including computer-aided design, spreading, cutting,
and sewing; joining techniques; and seamless garment construction are beneficial
in meeting the consumer needs. The development in finishing, quality control, and
care-labeling of garment are meeting the point-of-sale requirements.
. Technical textile
Technical textile is an established domain of interdisciplinary application of
textile products. Most of the major industrial sectors are benefiting the function of
fiber material.
Figure 5.
Emergence of technical textile products from 1990 and its growth with knitted and woven textiles [12].
Introductory Chapter: Textile Manufacturing Processes
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.87968
Any technical textile is a fibrous structure or a textile product that is produced
for technical performance rather than fashion or aesthetic requirements.
Currently, technical textiles occupy strong market consumption. It is signifi-
cantly an important sector for industrial development in industrialized and devel-
oping countries.
There are  types of technical textile with example product application which
may be outlined as under:
Meditech—sanitary diapers, bandages, sutures, mosquito nets, heart valves,
ligaments, etc.
AgroTech—crop protection net, bird protection, water tank, etc.
BuildTech—ropes, tarpaulin, concrete reinforcement, window blind, wall cov-
ering, etc.
MobileTech—car airbags, aircraft seats, boat, seat belt, etc.
ProTech—protective gloves, knife and bulletproof vest, flame-retardant and
chemical-resistant clothing, etc.
InduTech—conveyor belts, cordage, filtration media, etc.
HomeTech—sofa and furniture fabric, floor covering, mattresses, pillow, etc.
ClothTech—sun shade, parachute fabric, sewing threads, interlinings, etc.
SportTech—sports shoe, swimsuit, sports nets, sleeping bags, sail cloths, etc.
PackTech—tea bags, wrapping fabrics, jute sacks, etc.
OekoTech or EcoTech (textiles in environment protection)—erosion protection,
air cleaning, prevention of water pollution, waste treatment/recycling, etc.
Geotech—nets for seashore and geo structures, mats, grids, composites, etc.
The emergence of technical textile products was realized in the s, in addi-
tion to the conventional woven and knitted textile articles. However, since then
technical textiles showed phenomenal growth (Figure ) [].
More recently, the global technical textile market has shown significant growth
in consumption, and it is estimated to continue in the future. Technical textile
market was estimated at USD .billion in  and is projected to reach USD
.billion by . The CAGR of from  to  is indicated ..
. Value addition in textile manufacturing
. Pretreatment process
Any of fiber substrate including fiber/yarn, fabric, garment, technical textile,
etc. may require a series of chemical processing to reduce the undesired content
from the fiber. The selection of any pretreatment process, its composition, and
methodology depends upon the end-use requirement of the textile product.
Textile Manufacturing Processes
A pretreatment process is generally required to introduce two important value
additions in textile substrate including:
I. Removing the undesired content from the fiber mass including dust, coloring
matters, undesired oils, lint, trash, etc.
II. Imparting the required level of fiber property for subsequent processing of
textile substrate. The required fiber property may include fabric whiteness,
absorbency, softness, strength, weight, width, etc.
The pretreatment processes performed in conventional textile industry are siz-
ing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerization, washing, and heat setting. One or
more of any of these processes are required for the textile substrate depending upon
the end use of the textile.
Traditionally, the pretreatment process is performed on cotton, cellulose fibers,
wool, and the blend of these fibers with synthetics and semisynthetics. Natural
fibers including cotton and wool have natural impurities, and the purpose of
pretreatment is primarily to remove undesired natural fiber content.
. Coloration process
Dyeing, printing, and coating are the coloration processes to produce beautiful
motif and color effect on textile. Printing and coating are limited to surface color-
ation and may be applied to most of the fiber types, natural fabrics, and synthetics.
Approximately , different dyes and pigments are used industrially around the
world [].
Dyeing is the coloring effect throughout the cross section of fiber, and this effect
can be produced on any form of textile substrate including fiber/yarn, fabric, gar-
ment, and clothing articles. However, any dyestuff is suitable for a particular type
of fiber for dyeing.
Dyeing of textile substrate is performed using any of the dyestuff including
reactive, direct, sulfur, vat, pigment, acid, and disperse, depending upon the dye-
fiber system compatibility. The dyeing method used can be continuous, semicon-
tinuous, and batching. Continuous dyeing technique is performed for large-scale
production in the industry.
Fixation of dyestuff in fabric or garment should be significantly fast during the
service life to provide resistance and durability against washing, heat, chemicals,
soaping, rubbing, sunlight, etc.
Washing of the dyed fabric and the discharge of dye effluent may release
– of dyestuff to the environment [], and that is the environmental
concern associated with the dyeing process. Globally, the inefficient dyeing and
finishing process may result in the release of , tons of used dyestuff to the
environment.
. Special finishing process
Special finishing effects are required in textile fibers. The functional attributes
of textile fibers are limited. Textile products are required to exhibit a variety of
performance effects for end use. Crease recovery, flame retardant, water repellent,
antibacteria, antistatic, moth proofing, softening, and hand-builder are the special
finishing effects that can be produced in textile.
Conventionally, special finishing is performed following the coloration of tex-
tile; however, innovation has shown the possibility of performing special finishing
Introductory Chapter: Textile Manufacturing Processes
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.87968
prior the coloration and special finishing in combination with the coloration pro-
cess. The subject of investigating the alternating finishing and coloration processing
sequences may offer the enhanced finish effects or coloration effects [].
The global textile functional finishing is experiencing continuous growth, and
the trend is forecasted to survive in the future. The market size was estimated at
.milliontons in , and in terms of monetary value, it is expected to grow at
a CAGR of . from  to  [].
The USA is the major textile market for the consumption of special finishes.
Grand View Research, USA, published future growth figures for special finishes
that indicated almost all the important types of special finishes to rise in consump-
tion till  (Figure ).
Over  supply of the special finishing agents is indicated to be through five
major chemical companies including Dow Chemical Company; Bayer AG; BASF SE;
Sumitomo Chemicals Co., Ltd.; and Huntsman International LLC.Asian countries
including India, China, Bangladesh, and Vietnam are expected to see a flourishing
market with the support of public policies.
Stronger environmental regulations, emission, and pollution control in the
application, processing, and service life performance are the challenges in the use of
special finishes [].
. Environment and textile manufacturing
All the environmental spheres, such as air, water and soil, are seriously affected
by the textile manufacturing processes from fiber production to final fabric finish-
ing. Consequently, a number of initiatives are introduced in textile industry by
the public and private partnership to enhance the environment-friendly nature of
textile processing.
Chemical used in fiber manufacturing and processing of textiles, effluent
discharge from the textile dyeing, printing, and finishing, dust, short fibers, and
lint released from the yarn manufacturing, volatiles and toxic gases released, etc.,
are the undesired effects to environment and human lives.
An estimation of the undesired effects to environment associated with the
major processing units of textile industry can be presented based on the amount of
consumption of chemicals, water and energy used. More the chemicals, water and
Figure 6.
Functional finish market growth (USD million) in the USA for 2014–2025 by product type (Grand View
Research, USA [18]).
Textile Manufacturing Processes

energy consumed in a textile process, higher is the possibility of undesired effects
to our planet and living species breathing and breeding in the environment. Table
shows an estimated percentage consumption of water, energy and chemicals in
main textile processing sections.
Living species are directly or indirectly affected by the inhalation of toxic gases,
consumption of contaminated water and food items, and the skin contact of toxic
vapors and gases. The increasing realization of hazards associated with the textile
manufacturing by the industrialized region in particular has resulted in the follow-
ing important phenomena in textile sector:
. conventional textile processing industries are clustered in developing
countries;
. technical textiles or textile processing with reduced environmental hazards
grown in developed region; and
. environmental standards, produced through the public and private participa-
tion, are increasing in practice in textile industries across the world to enhance
the environment-friendly processes and products.
Water and chemicals are throughout the processing chain of textiles. Fiber
manufacturing and processing, sizing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, merceriza-
tion, dyeing, printing, finishing etc., are known for water, chemical, and energy
intensive nature. An increasing world population and the rising number of people
to afford enhanced quantity of garments are elevating the production and pro-
cessing of kilogram of fibers. Therefore, today, an individual is consuming more
quantity of clothing, and there is an increasing population for higher consumption
demand of clothing.
There may be than  chemicals used in the production of clothing; where the
European Union classified  the EU chemicals as hazardous to environment. An
estimation made in  for the assessment of environment hazard created by the
global textile and clothing industry indicated the consumption of  billion of cubic
meter of water. Large amount of this water is discharged into river and land without
significant treatment in less developed countries. Toxic gaseous emission from
textile processing is estimated to  million tons of CO, and material waste is 
million. If the processes continue in similar situation till , the indicated water,
gas and waste hazard will increase by at least  [].
There are  eco-labels for textiles presently used []. In several developing
countries, the textile processing industries are following the practice of ecolabels,
S. no Process Water (
consumption)
Energy (
consumption)
Chemicals (
consumption)
Yarn production 
Fabric production  
Wet processing (dyeing/
printing/finishing)
  
Garment production
Tot al   
Table 1.
Water, energy and chemicals consumption in main processing sections of textile industry.

Introductory Chapter: Textile Manufacturing Processes
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.87968
and the voluntarily eco-standards to demonstrate the environment- friendly process
and product. An important example is Oeko-Tex Series of Standards that may be
briefly described as follows []:
I. STANDARD  by OEKO-TEX: It may be described as an independent
testing and certification system for raw, semi-finished, and finished textile
products through all the processing stages. This standard is particularly use-
ful for legal regulations, for example on banned azo colorants, and harmful
chemicals.
OEKO-TEX  Standard helps the processor and producer of textile
product to demonstrate the compliance for legal regulations including
those limiting the banned azo colorants, formaldehyde, pentachlorophenol,
cadmium, nickel, etc., and the voluntarily prevention of harmful chemicals
that are not legally regulated.
II. SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE PRODUCTION (STeP) by OEKO-TEX® is a
certification system for brands, retail companies and manufacturers in
the textile chain to inform the public that they performed sustainable
manufacturing processes. Therefore, STeP certification is applicable to all
the sections of textile processing sector including fiber production, yarn
manufacturing, fabric manufacturing, and garment production.
Any processing unit certified with STeP Standard means it follows the
environment- friendly processes, ensure health and safety practices, and
implement socially sound working environment for all the staff and place.
III. ECO PASSPORT by OEKO-TEX® is another standard. It provided the test-
ing and certification system for chemicals, colorants and auxiliaries used
in the processing of textile fiber. A three-stage verification is exercised on
chemicals applied in textile processing to demonstrate compliance to safety,
sustainability and statutory regulation.
IV. DETOX TO ZERO by OEKO-TEX® is the standard to evaluate the chemi-
cal management system in the textile chain coupled with the waste water
and sludge quality disposed to environment by a textile unit. This standard
requires the verification through an independent source.
Detox to Zero Status Report of a textile unit for chemical management
and waste water and sludge control is based on providing the parameters
including management system and organization structure, compliance to
the legal requirements for storage and handling of chemicals, environmen-
tal protection, health and safety of employees, and production process.
. Conclusion
Textile fibers provided an integral component in modern society and physical
structure known for human comfort and sustainability. Man is an ancient friend of
fashion. The quest for better garment and apparel led to the development of textile
fiber production and textile manufacturing process.
A textile manufacturing process involves the production or conversion of textile
fiber through a defined process in a product. The resultant textile product can be a
finished product ready for consumer market, or it may be an intermediate product
to be used as an input (raw material) substance to produce another textile product.
Textile Manufacturing Processes

In general the conventional post-fiber formation processes may mainly be clas-
sified as physical and chemical textile manufacturing processes. A physical textile
manufacturing process is required to convert the textile fiber into yarn; nonwoven,
woven, knitted, technical textile; special finishing effects; etc. The chemical textile
manufacturing processes include sizing, desizing, scouring, bleaching, merceriza-
tion, dyeing, printing, special chemical finishing, etc.
The chapters in this book are to share the development work in yarn manufac-
turing, fabric manufacturing, garment, and technical textiles. It is a collection of
research and academic works in areas of textile manufacturing by the authors with
expert background in the topic. The content may serve as a useful learning through
the research work and the literature review as the subject tutorial.
Conflict of interest
The author declares no conflict of interest in writing this chapter.
Author details
FaheemUddin
Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education, Karachi, Pakistan
*Address all correspondence to: dfudfuca@yahoo.ca
©  The Author(s). Licensee IntechOpen. This chapter is distributed under the terms
of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/.), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium,
provided the original work is properly cited.

Introductory Chapter: Textile Manufacturing Processes
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.87968
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... A large chunk of wastewater is generated through every manufacturing and processing step involved in the textile industry, therefore, it is causing a large portion of water getting polluted which needs the treatment before its release into the environment [5]. Typically, the textile industry involves processes such as sizing [6], de-sizing [7], scouring [8], bleaching [9], mercerizing [10], dyeing [10], printing [11], and finishing [12,13]. Among these, bleaching, finishing, and dyeing processes usually consume more than half of the total water required for the total textile industry. ...
... A large chunk of wastewater is generated through every manufacturing and processing step involved in the textile industry, therefore, it is causing a large portion of water getting polluted which needs the treatment before its release into the environment [5]. Typically, the textile industry involves processes such as sizing [6], de-sizing [7], scouring [8], bleaching [9], mercerizing [10], dyeing [10], printing [11], and finishing [12,13]. Among these, bleaching, finishing, and dyeing processes usually consume more than half of the total water required for the total textile industry. ...
Article
Full-text available
The textile industry is one of the important and largest industry that consumes major chunk of the water in the world. This industry produces a large amount of wastewater during the processes such as sizing, de-sizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, printing, and finishing. The used water produced after such processes affects the environment heavily due to its composition such as mineral salts and oils present in suspended state, metals and metal complexes, dyes, various chemicals, some readily-biodegradable products and some constituents that are hard to biodegrade. The treatment of such hazardous effluent to reuse the water in certain water demanding processes is essential. Considering the worldwide application of the textiles, the appropriate management of water resources in the sector includes the treatment of effluent by efficient technology and the reuse of the water. This article displays an overview of waste management during textile industrial processes. It aims at giving oversight on waste minimization and reuse along with wastewater treatment methods. It also involves the cross-utilization of effluent between processes for achieving water efficiency. This review covers advanced waterless textile dyeing processes, zero liquid discharge techniques, advanced oxidation processes, biological treatment methods, which can be a sustainable and greener approach to reducing the waste generation.
... The collected water after the ASEC treatment was transparent for all the samples [13]. None of the compounds confirmed in the input samples were significantly detected in the S1out samples. ...
Article
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The textile industry consumes large volumes of freshwater, producing enormous wastewater containing chemicals from dyeing and bathing, but also microplastics concentrations that have not been deeply studied. Liquid wastes from the synthetic and natural textile manufacturers were treated with a new disruptive technology (Adiabatic Sonic Evaporation and Crystallization, ASEC), which completely removed contaminants from water, providing distilled water and crystallized solids. The current study presents the characterization of the industrial residues and the obtained by-products: microplastics and organic matter contained in the solid residue were analyzed and characterized through chromatography. The results of the analyses displayed that compounds such as benzene, benzoic acid and 2,4-dymethyl-1-heptene were found in the synthetic industry water samples as degraded compounds of polyester and polypropylene. Meanwhile, the natural industry water also contained polyester, nylon and PMM polymer. After the depuration of samples, microplastics were completely retained in the solid phase, together with the organic matter (sulfate and surfactants) resulting on clean water. This is the first study focused on the study of microplastics generated by the textile industry and their prevention by removing them as solid waste.
... Digital printing holds significance in the fabric industry (Uddin 2019), revolutionizing the industry with its advent. Unlike conventional methods -roller, screen, and transfer printing -digital printing technology breathes life into fabrics, offering imagery that is strikingly realistic, vibrant, and natural. ...
Article
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During the digital printing process, the fabric defects need to be accurately detected to ensure product quality. However, the defects are difficult to effectively distinguish from the background, which can cause degradation of detection model performance. To solve this problem, a defect detection model incorporating adaptive attention mechanisms, AdaptiveDet, was proposed for digital printing fabric. First, the initial anchor box was generated using the K-means++ algorithm to better adapt to the complex target shape. Second, the backbone network could be reconfigured using the adaptive CBS module, allowing higher-level features to be extracted and interference with non-critical features to be reduced. Then, the neck network was reconfigured using the ELAN-EVC module so that the model could learn both global and local feature representations to capture information more accurately about minor defects. Finally, the DyHead framework was adopted in the head of YOLOv7-Tiny to enhance the model’s sensitivity to spatial information, which lead to excellent performance in the complex background defect detection task. The experimental results show that the proposed model performs well on the DPFD-DET dataset with mAP@.5 of 93%, which outperforms other detection models. This shows that it could meet the demand for high-precision defect detection for digital printing fabric.
... Despite numerous studies, literature on the garment industry is fraught with numerous limitations. First, most of these existing studies that focus on understanding garment quality have reported the phenomenon from the perspective of developed countries (Chowdhury & Akter, 2018;Pazireh et al., 2017;Rahman & Koszewska, 2020;Uddin, 2019;Durairatnam, et al, 2021;Abbate, et al, 2024). Secondly, among existing studies on garment production, only a few have explored the quality processes ascribed to by garment producers to enhance the quality of garments produced (Gitimu et al., 2013;Rahman et al., 2009;Yusof, 2015;Jia et al, 2020;Niinimäki, et al, 2020). ...
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Purpose: Clothing is one of the most prioritised needs of people since it creates various impressions about them. Yet, compared to the foreign ones, the demand for Ghanaian-made is in low demand due to arguments on inferior quality. The purpose of the study was to investigate quality issues within Ghana's garment industry from the perspective of SMEs and dressmakers. Methodology/Design: A qualitative approach was employed, utilising face-to-face interviews and focus groups with industry participants. Data was analysed using NVivo to identify key themes such as pre-production, production, and post-production phases. These themes included: the type of sewing machine used; human resources and work environment; quality supervision and inspection; press as you sew; garment accessory assessment; trimming suitability and aesthetics; finishing techniques; comparative assessment of quality; and packaging. Findings: The study identified major quality challenges in each phase of the garment production process. These include inadequate training during pre-production, inconsistent quality control during production, and poor finishing in post-production. Practical and Social Implications: The study has implications for policy interventions, by addressing these quality issues, the study suggests that SMEs can enhance their competitiveness and sustainability. Improved training, investment in better equipment, and stringent quality controls are crucial for the industry's growth and market reputation. Improving garment quality in Ghana's SMEs can boost national pride, reduce reliance on imports, strengthen the local economy, create jobs, and ensure fair labour practices, this study provides a holistic view of quality issues in the garment industry, offering unique insights from local dressmakers and SMEs, and highlighting specific challenges and opportunities for improvement. Originality: This study provides a distinctive perspective into the specific quality issues faced by Ghanaian SMEs and dressmakers, offering targeted solutions to bridge the gap between small-scale and large-scale producers.
... Similarly, some apparel firms only focus on designing fabrics and fabric surfaces and do not use styling and stitching. Hence, clothing firms do not have to be engaged in a complete value chain; instead, they work as loops of the textile value chain (Uddin, 2019). ...
Thesis
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Pakistan's Textile and Clothing sector relies on cotton-based products, of which a major share entails textile raw material. Researchers have identified the importance of design innovation for value-added apparel products in the textile and clothing sector to encounter future challenges. Albeit the eminence of new product development in shaping future lifestyles and environments is realized in other research, it is important to address the apparel design process and what apparel products to design. Therefore, an in-depth study of apparel design practice is needed to facilitate product design innovation within the industrial setup. Consequently, this study proposes a framework to enhance the innovation potential of apparel design in Pakistan's textile and clothing industry. The framework determined factors related to product design components that influence new product development. It developed an outline to strategize the apparel design process by observing the current design practices in an industrial setup. Qualitative research revealed novel approaches for developing new apparel products by investigating the design practices of apparel designers. The study adopted an exploratory investigation of the effectiveness of design practice through the phenomenological empirical approach. The published sources' content analysis was performed, leading to an industrial inventory. Subsequently, concurrent research methods of field observation and semi-structured interviews were conducted to develop an insight into the phenomenon. The results established that the existing design practices focus on product interface and appearance-related chores. Thematic analysis of interviews and graphical analysis of the design processes revealed that design components related to the product’s identity, functionality, and execution are less focused during the identification and ideation phase, resulting in limited design possibilities. Identification of design briefs is market-driven and primarily based on lifestyle, culture, events, and seasons. The data analysis revealed that the propositions for innovation strategies in apparel design have four essential components: aesthetics, function, production, and product identity. The study also found that the priorities to engage product design components during the design process vary according to product typology for achieving innovation. The framework classified change factors for each stage of the design process to recommend innovative identification of design briefs, methods of ideation to focus on the multiple design components of the garment, and collaborative ventures with internal and external design environments for improved fabrication of the products. The proposed framework is validated through focus group discussions with experts. The study provides a framework for directing apparel design practice to enhance new apparel products over three stages of identification, ideation, and fabrication in the design development process. The study concludes significant factors influencing apparel design innovation. The proposed framework invites further investigation in apparel design innovation on the degree and nature of design collaborations, design networking systems, the discovery of alternate resources, exploration of new materials, skill development of young designers, and reforms in design education to augment innovation.
... Lipases are mostly employed in the textile industry to degrease the raw materials for textiles and improve their performances (Uddin , 2019). The commercialization of lipase and the research of the physical and chemical modifications of the treated wool, fibre have been noted. ...
Chapter
Tannin acyl hydrolase is also known as tannase. Tannase acts upon ester and depside linkages in gallotannins,ellagitannins, complex tannins and gallic acid esters to gallic acid that finds application in the food processing industry due to its antioxidant activity. Tannins are present in every part of plant in the form of secondary metabolite. The animal sources of tannase include bovine intestine and ruminal mucus. Although tannase has a long history with numerous publications, it is still considered as an expensive industrial enzyme. Tannase derived from microorganisms have wide applications in various industries, due to their abundance and ease to produce. Organisms like bacteria, fungi and yeast produce tannase enzyme which can be used for various applications. The fungi isolated from various sources produce more tannase enzyme. There are various fermentation and purification processes to produce tannase enzyme using microorganisms.It is extensively used in food, animal feed, pharmaceutical, beverage, brewing, tannery and chemical industry. Main application of tannase is elaboration of instantaneous tea, acorn wine and gallic acid production. It is also used as clarifying agent in juice and coffee flavored beverages. Gallic acid is used in pharmaceutical industry as an intermediary compound for the synthesis of trimethoprim antibiotic. In chemical industry it is used as substrate for the chemical or enzymatic synthesis of propylgallate and other antioxidant compounds used in food processing industry. This chapter deals about the application of tannase in various fields. Keywords:Tannase, Tannin, Gallic acid, Food Industry, Pharmaceutical, Brewery, Tannery.
... To increase the performance and quality of raw materials in textile industries, lipases play a crucial role. Anhydrous alkaline lipases are used to remove the oil stains on wool fabrics [59,60]. Degumming and dewaxing on silk fibers are mainly done by lipases and proteases in a definite quantity for better results [61]. ...
Chapter
The use of microbial enzymes improves the quality of modern detergency and their use in detergents has been widely accepted by both detergent manufacturers and consumers. The detergent lipases are active at ambient and nonambient temperatures and play an important role in the digestion of lipid molecules by the soiled substrates. The microbial lipases are nowadays principally used as detergent additives in household cleaning products, household and industrial laundering, and in medical, agricultural, leather, food and drinks, biodiesel industries, etc. Production of microbial lipases is more useful as compared to enzymes obtained from other sources like plants, animals, and genetically engineered organisms. Their use also ensures precise cleaning along with lower capital and energy costs as well as waste treatment costs. Since microbes are capable of growing in diverse extreme environments, their lipases would work efficiently in ambient and nonambient environments. This chapter attempts to discuss the source, production, and applications related to microbial lipases with special reference to their utilization for improved detergency.
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Salinity stress can significantly impact productivity in agricultural area with limited water re-sources. Our study focused on how plants under salt stress respond to phosphorus availability in terms of growth and biochemical reactions in cotton genotypes. Two cotton genotypes with different P efficiencies (SK39 and JM21) were used in a hydroponic experiment with 300 mM NaCl and three P treatments (10, 20, and 30 mM). Salinity stress decreases root growth, shoot growth, biomass production, and chlorophyll content, according to the experimental findings. In treated plants, it also increased the levels of oxidative stress. However, this effect was alleviated by phosphorus therapy, which controlled the production of proline, total soluble sugars, and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). Interestingly, salt-sensitive JM21 responded to phosphorus supplementation more favorably than salt-tolerant SK39. Our research emphasizes the critical role that phosphorus especially P20 plays increasing the salinity stress sensitivity of cotton plants and offers insightful in-formation on the mechanisms underlying the role of phosphorus in reducing salinity stress effects. This study also revealed interspecific variability in cotton genotypes and characteristics, primarily represented by attributes related to cotton growth and morphological indicators such as dry matter biomass.
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Nowadays, sustainability is greatly aided by natural colors in the textile industry rather than harmful and carcinogenic synthetic dyes. Due to heightened knowledge of the risks to the environment and human health involved with the manufacturing and use of synthetic dyes, there is a greater demand for natural dyeing and printing. In this work, we employed a green technique for eco-printing and dyeing silk fabrics using some agricultural wastes, which resulted in the formation of bioactive silk fabrics that inhibit the growth of microbes and insects. In dying and eco-printing experiments, onion outer skin (quercetin), rose, eucalyptus, lemon, grape, and peach leaves, which are utilized in the eco-printing method for silk printing, were used in the experiments. The colorfastness to washing, perspiration, and crocking was evaluated by AATCC 61-2020, AATCC 15-2013, and AATCC 8-2016, respectively. By utilizing iron (II) sulfate and alum as mordents, botanical eco-printing techniques have expanded the color spectrum, altered color shades, and enhanced color output. The infrared (IR) spectra of silk in all stages of dying and printing were measured to study the mode of binding between silk and natural dyes. The bioactivity of eco-printed silk was tested in light of its antimicrobial and insecticide activities. Aspergillus flavus, Aspergillus niger, Bacillus cereus, Candida albicans, Candida glabrata, and Escherichia coli, were tested for antibacterial activity on eco-printed silk, and its efficacy was compared to that of undyed silk. The findings indicated that colored fabrics are effective because they exhibit a higher maximal inhibition area than undyed fabrics, with natural dye-drenched materials producing the highest level of inhibition (88%) against all isolated species. Dyed fabrics also demonstrated a respectable level of washing fastness. Scanning electron microscope (SEM) photos were collected after 5 and 10 days of incubation to track the growth of microbes on the textile surface. In addition, eco-printed silk outperformed undyed silk in its ability to repel Oryzaephilus surinamensis.
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Abstract A variety of antimicrobial chemical finishes recently received significant interest in the development of antimicrobial fibrous products. However, an antimicrobial inhibiting the growth or leading the death of microorganism may be harmful to other living species including human being. An increasing consumption of antimicrobial finished fibrous products, and the existing regulations for the registration and control of such products provided strong reasons to appreciate the environment concerns associated with the finished textiles. The published literature in antimicrobial finishing of fibers mainly addressed the development of finish composition, its application, and subsequent evaluation using appropriate methods. Environmental risks that may be associated with the antimicrobial; and its undesired effect during the product service life were the obvious concerns demanding investigations. State of the art development in antimicrobial finishing of textiles emphasized the need for assessing the environment-friendly character of antimicrobial finishes, and the development of antimicrobial effects using natural antimicrobials of plant and animal origin obtainable from the waste materials. Sustainable finish composition and finished fibrous product were apparently found desirable.
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Cationization of cotton is a new pre-treatment process that improves the color strength and color fastness properties associated with the dyeing and printing processes. The process may be significant to printers because it offers improvement at an affordable price to printers and environmentalists. The process uses selected quaternary ammonium salts to create cations in the cellulosic fibers, producing increased affinity to form covalent bonds with anionic dyes. Three methods, namely pad-batch-wash-dry, pad-bake-wash-dry, and exhaust-wash-dry are used for applying the cationic salts to the cotton fibers. The salt, under aqueous alkaline conditions, reacts with the hydroxyl groups of the cellulose molecules, cationizing the fibers. The reduction in whiteness index due to cationization of cotton can be minimized to reach an acceptable level through the selection of method and conditions used for the process.
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Pakistan, as a developing country and as a major cotton producer, needs to establish a clear vision of cotton production and textile value-addition rather than limiting or concentrating the approaches for increasing the fiber quantity. The chain of value-addition in cotton fibers and cotton textiles provides an effective alternative to cotton crop expansion. The country needs to be highly scientific, practical, and detailed-oriented in approaching plan to increase the number of million of cotton bales. The idea of producing limited bales of cotton with higher value-addition may generate more revenue than an increased number of bales having reduced value with the cost of risks to environment and human lives. Pakistan must also realize the cost of losses and production to retain or expand cotton production. The concept of higher value-addition supports healthy circumstances for future exploration of cotton in the country thereby enhancing the export earning capability of the economy.
Article
In this study, sulphonic acid-based zwitterions are evaluated as an alternative catalyst system for the crease recovery finishing, using dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea, of cotton fabric prior to pigment printing. Crease recovery finishing using a conventional catalyst, magnesium chloride, induces loss of pigment print definition attributed to the electrolytic thinning of polyacrylate-based synthetic thickener. However, such electrolytic thinning can be prevented by using aminomethane- or aminoethane-sulphonic acid. A combined catalyst of the latter with ammonium chloride is identified as an alternative catalyst for crease recovery finishing prior to pigment printing. The properties of finish and pigment print evaluated using this catalyst are improved without the loss of print definition.
Article
The combined application of crease recovery finishing (using a dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea-based finish) and pigment printing is evaluated in this study. The use of a small amount of ammonium chloride in a combined print–finish process induces significant pigment print paste viscosity losses. However, the catalyst 2-aminoethanesulphonic acid produces negligible viscosity reduction when used in the combined print–finish process, coupled with the desired levels of finish and pigment print performance. Similar dry crease recovery, breaking load, colour strength and colour fastness properties are achieved by using 2-aminoethanesulphonic acid in the combined print–finish process relative to the conventional print–finish process.
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