The 'terroir' and the city: promotion of rural food products in urban ‘gourmet’ stores – examples from Paris and Lisbon

Abstract

Based on the content analysis of the websites of 60 ‘gourmet’ or specialty stores located in the historical hearts of Paris and Lisbon, we aim at discussing the role of urban stores in promoting both rural food products and rural territories. While there is a relative consensus regarding the increasing interest of (mainly urban) consumers in traditional and local food products, as well as on the positive impacts these processes may induce in rural areas, little evidence has been however produced on the specific role urban retailers may have in the process of valorisation of rural territories and rural food products. However, urban specialised or gourmet stores may play an important role in the dissemination and promotion of these terroir products. Through the commercialization of traditional local foodstuffs, ‘gourmet’ or specialty stores are, often, equally selling a ‘piece of the countryside’, ‘a piece of specific ‘terroirs’ or territories’, ‘a piece of the local’ (or regional or even national) cultural identities, alongside a particular vision of the world and specific savoir faire. In this sense, urban stores may promote and reinforce rural attractiveness and the desire to visit particular sites and to experiment particular foodstuffs, both among urban consumers and international tourists, as food products represent ‘more than just food’, placing people (producers, retailers, distributors and consumers) in a particular social universe and culture. As a material and immaterial resource, terroir food is part of a region and nation’s heritage and the way it is promoted and sold may or may not emphasise its attributes and its connections with particular territories and cultures.
The selection of the 60 stores was based on their self-designation as ‘gourmet’, as well as on the type of products sold. For the analysis, only Portuguese and French products were considered. Empirical evidence demonstrate that the promotion of rural foodstuffs include both the presentation of the attributes of particular types of products and of the territories in which they are produced and/or prepared. The connection with specific ‘terroirs’ and territories cultural traditions, visions, values and know-how is generally made by the stores’ promotional strategies in a very positive manner. Evidence also shows that rural foodstuffs seem to have been transformed from rustic to luxury and exquisite goods, from ordinary to rare, unique and desirable products. Although related to the ‘exceptional’ and ‘luxurious’ (particularly in the case of most of the Paris stores), rural foodstuffs are, as well, increasingly promoted as being ‘accessible’ to all. This last dimension is particularly evident from the emergence of specific ‘gourmet’ brands of large supermarkets’ chains and by the emphasis on the fact that the ‘terroirs’ are now closer to the consumers, in the heart of the urban areas.

Full text

THE 'TERROIR' AND THE CITY
PROMOTION OF RURAL FOOD PRODUCTS IN URBAN ‘GOURMET’ STORES – EXAMPLES FROM PARIS
AND LISBON
Elisabete Figueiredo
Dep. Social, Political and Territorial
Sciences & GOVCOPP
University of Aveiro, Portugal
elisa@ua.pt
Gerbert Verheij Gerbert Verheij

AIMS
Based on the content analysis of the written parts of the websites of 60 ‘gourmet’
or specialty food stores located in the historical hearts of Paris and Lisbon, we aim
(in an exploratory manner) at:
contributing to the understanding of the role that those stores may play:
in promoting rural territories attractiveness and development;
in fostering agricultural activities through the valorisation of local food productions;
in fostering new or renewed rural-urban liaisons.

MORE THAN JUST FOOD
Increasing evidence of the growing
number of specialty food stores in
urban areas in many European
countries
Relative consensus regarding the
increasing interest of (mainly urban)
consumers (and tourists) in traditional
and local food products
‘Gourmet’ or specialty stores are, often selling:
a‘piece of the countryside’,
‘a piece of specific ‘terroirs’ or territories’,
‘a piece of the local’ (or regional or even national) cultural
identities,
alongside a particular vision of the world and specific
savoir faire.
Promote/ reinforce:
the desire to visit particular sites and to
experiment particular foodstuffs, both among
urban consumers and international tourists,
as food products represent ‘more than just
food’, placing people (producers, retailers,
distributors and consumers) in a particular
social universe and culture.
Food is more than just food

TERROIR ‘VERSUS’ GOURMET FOOD
Terroir
Products’ origin in a specific area
Products produced by peasants
Authentic and genuine and ‘real’ products
The ways of consumption of the products, often related with conviviality
Gourmet
The gastronomy sphere
The luxurious food products
An urban and elite notion.
These two notions were historically and
socially constructed in different, even
opposed, value systems and universes

TERROIR ‘VERSUS’ GOURMET FOOD
As a material and immaterial resource, terroir (and/or local/regional ) food is part of
a region and nation’s heritage and the way it is promoted and sold may or may not
emphasise its attributes and its connections with particular territories and cultures,
appealing to
National identities
Territories and products diverseness and peculiarities
Authenticity, unique and genuine character
Memories and nostalgia…

METHODOLOGY
Content analysis (using NVivo10) of
60 websites of gourmet stores located in the city centres of Paris (30)and Lisbon (30.
The selection of stores was based:
on its self-designation and characterisation as gourmet
and on the type of products sold (terroir, local, regional).
The search was made in French and Portuguese,using the expressions:
Stores terroir gourmet Paris/ Stores terroir Paris // Stores terroir gourmet Lisboa/ Stores terroir / regional
products Lisboa
Only French and Portuguese terroir/local/regional products presentation and
promotion were considered, even if the stores sell as well products from other countries.

METHODOLOGY

STORES’ CHARACTERISTICS

STORES’ CHARACTERISTICS
0
5
10
15
20
25
Paris
Lisbon
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Paris
Lisbon

STORES’ CHARACTERISTICS

MORE FREQUENT WORDS (PARIS STORES)
All materials
In Products
description
In stores description

MORE FREQUENT WORDS (LISBON STORES)
All materials
In Products
description
In stores description
In stores description
In Products
description

MORE FREQUENT WORDS (DEPARTMENT STORES)
«Essential, great classics or rare and ultra-
sophisticated, thousands of products are
collected by a team of ‘research heads’ of a
sharp requirement. The most tasty and
remarkable products are proposed to you,
several of them exclusively» (P2 –DS)
All materials
In stores description
In stores description
In Products
description
Paris
Lisbon

MORE FREQUENT WORDS (LUXURY GROCERY STORES)
All materials
In stores description
In stores description
In Products
description
Paris
Lisbon
«The French art of living!Flagship of fine Parisian
grocery stores, Hédiard is worldwide known as an
Ambassador of the French art of living.This art is present
in Hédiard through the personality of its creator, in the store
located in Place de la Madeleine, a real Parisian institution
(…) highly raising the colours of French refinement»
(LGS –P3)
« What are those products? They are products that had cross
generations and touch our heart (...). They are memory
trademarks and represent a way of living. They remind us
of ancient everyday life and reveal the soul of the country.
These products are ours. These products are us.»(LGS
–L2).

MORE FREQUENT WORDS (BRANDS OF LARGE SUPERMARKETS)
All materials
In stores description
In stores description
In Products
description
Paris
Lisbon
«Every French region is represented with its paradigmatic
specialties: the mustard from Bourgogne, the camembert from
Normandie moulded with a ladle, the farmers’ cider from
Bretagne... ‘Reflects de France’ invites you to discover,
rediscover and share these specialties from French
terroirs, which are the proud of our country and
integrate the French art of living.» (BLS –P24)
«The best of each region! All the products of the brand ‘O Sabor
das Nossas Regiões’have a distinctive characteristic: they are
born from ancestral know-how and they are produced
in a traditional manner.Our brand aims at preserving
Portugal traditions and to be an associate to small
artisan farmers »(BLS –L25)

MORE FREQUENT WORDS (REGIONAL PRODUCTS STORES (1 REGION))
All materials
In stores description
In stores description
In Products
description
Paris
Lisbon
«To us, the cuisine comes from the heart:it is authentic, generous,
and inspired in the receipts of our ancestors, underlying the quality
of the ingredients as the foie gras and the black truffle from Périgord»
(RPS1 –P8)
«We never had cut the umbilical cord with our mountains (...) but we
left everything to make our dream come true: share our passion for
our region with the Paris inhabitants». (RPS1 –P14).
«Azores’ Place –Tradition and Gourmet! We bring you the best of
Azores nine islands blessed by Nature (...). The best of Azores in
downtown Lisbon»(RPS 1 –L8)
«We are a serene little piece of Alentejo in the heart of Lisbon (...).
We have understood very earlier in life that Alentejo is a blessed
region!»(RPS 1 –L9)
«Algarve has moved to Alfama!. Algarve is no longer 3 hours apart
from Lisbon.It is enough to go to Alfama and you will find the best
products of the region» (RPS 1 –L13)

MORE FREQUENT WORDS (REGIONAL PRODUCTS STORES (GENER.))
All materials
In stores description
In stores description
In Products
description
Paris
Lisbon
«We have now, and again, a historical store in a historical
part of Lisbon to offer to Lisbon inhabitants and to
foreigners the products of our traditional
gastronomy.We confirm the saying: our tradition may
become our future»(RPSG –L16).
«Conveyors of flavours, ‘Terroirs d’Avenir’ want to propose to its
customers the good products, respecting the
environment and the peasants work as guardians
of biodiversity»(RPSG –P15).

MORE FREQUENT WORDS (FINE GROCERY STORES ONLINE)
All materials
In stores description
In stores description
In Products
description
Paris
Lisbon
«The pleasure of the ‘terroir’ in everyday life.The
quest for the savoir-faire. (...) The richness of these
encounters made possible to present a vast set of products
from 70 producers from all the regions of France»
(FGSO –P21)
«We are lovers of the good life and we know that the
greatest moments in life are celebrated around a table,
amongst toasts and gastronomic adventures. The ‘
Mercado Bom Gourmet’ has born from the desire
to share the best of Portugal.We will show you the
most genuine and delicious flavours, selected by experts
and awarded all over the world» (FSGO –L22)

MORE FREQUENT WORDS (ORGANIC STORES)
All materials
In stores description
In stores description
In Products
description
Paris
Lisbon
«More than ever, we are committed to defend the
values of organic farming and to share with you our
art of living: eat healthy and live better, adopting an
ecologically responsible behaviour» (OS –P28)
A place of food variety, diversity and quality, with 100%
of organic food from ecologically sustained
production.The relevance of knowing what we
eat.» (OS –L27)

MORE FREQUENT WORDS (FRENCH STORE IN LISBON/ PORTUGUESE STORE IN PARIS)
All materials
In stores description
In stores description
In Products
description
Paris
Lisbon
«Come in and discover our tasty products from
Portuguese ‘terroir’that we have selected especially for
you with care throughout the whole Portugal (...).You will
discover in Paris the scents of Douro, of Alentejo, of
the ‘vinho verde’and our biers, without forgetting
our ‘ginginha’and sweet wines»(PSP –P30).
«A thousand flavours and wines! We want you to discover or
to rediscover the pleasure of the classics from
French ‘terroirs’.French and gourmet wine and
champagne» (FSL-L30)

THE ABSENCE / PRESENCE OF WORDS
The notion of ‘rural’ and of ‘rurality’and the notion
of ‘agriculture’(apart from the organic stores) are
almost absent from the stores’ websites;
In the stores of both cities, ‘region’ (more than
regional)is a frequently used word, mainly in relation
to the products’ origin and authenticity and their
genuine, traditional and typical character.
The notion of ‘terroir’is used much more often by
the Paris stores, frequently combined with the words
French and France and gourmet,to designate a
variety of products.
In Lisbon, terroir is a notion scarcely used (and mostly
referred to wine regions and territories), while
gourmet is a more used notion applied to all sorts of
products.
The notion of luxury related to gourmet, local and
terroir products is much more used by the Paris
stores, while in the Lisbon stores the artisanal way of
producing is much more emphasized.

SOME CONCLUSIONS
The reference to terroir (in Paris stores) and local/regional (in Lisbon stores) and its frequent
association with gourmet cross all the types of stores, from the fine grocery ones to the
large supermarkets brands and seems to be used as a factor of attraction of
customers, both foreigners and nationals.
References to terroir (local/regional) are used as asign of distinction, good taste and
quality and seem to target a wealthier consumer.
Regional/ local/ terroir products seem to have been transformed from ‘rustic’to ‘luxury’
goods;from the ‘ordinary’to ‘rare’ and ‘unique’ and ‘desirable’;
Regional/ local/ terroir products are definitely advertised, promoted and sold as a
relevant part of the national and cultural patrimonies and identities,appealing at
the same time to the memory and nostalgia of national consumers and to the
valorisation of the diverseness and peculiar charater on foreigner consumers.

SOME CONCLUSIONS
Regional/ local/ terroir products are always presented as ‘authentic’,‘genuine’, ‘born
from the ancient savoir-faire and regional and national traditions’ and the
stores almost always promote their ‘links with producers and regions’;
Very often the terroir and the gourmet although related to exceptional and luxury
goods are also promoted as being ‘democratized’and (especially) ‘accessible’ to
all urban and foreigner customers
(particularly visible in the emergence of large chain supermarkets specific terroir or gourmet
brands and on the fact that the specific terroirs and regions are now accessible in the very hearts
of the cities)
STRINGS - https://www.stringsproject.pt/
Selling The Rural IN (urban) Gourmet Stores –establishing new liaisons between town and country through the sale and consumption of rural products (PTDC/GES-
OUT/29281/2017/ POCI-01-0145-FEDER-029281)

THE 'TERROIR' AND THE CITY
PROMOTION OF RURAL FOOD PRODUCTS IN URBAN ‘GOURMET’ STORES – EXAMPLES FROM PARIS
AND LISBON
Elisabete Figueiredo
Dep. Social, Political and Territorial
Sciences & GOVCOPP
University of Aveiro, Portugal
elisa@ua.pt
Muito Obrigada!
Thank you very much!
STRINGS - https://www.stringsproject.pt/
Selling The Rural IN (urban) Gourmet Stores –establishing new liaisons between town and country through the
sale and consumption of ruralproducts (PTDC/GES-OUT/29281/2017/ POCI-01-0145-FEDER-029281)