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Anti‐sebum efficacy of guava toner: A split‐face, randomized, single‐blind placebo‐controlled study
Abstract
Background
Guava has benefit phytochemicals that are important for skin‐disorder treatment. Nevertheless, its efficacy against oily skin has never been reported.
Aims
The guava toner was developed and clinical evaluated.
Methods
The base toner was formulated, accelerated stability tested, and sensory‐evaluated in 10 volunteers. The highest preference base was incorporated with guava extract, stability examined, and skin irritation assessed in 21 volunteers by a single application close patch test. Anti‐sebum efficacy was split‐face, randomized, single‐blind placebo‐controlled evaluated in 21 volunteers for 28 days and monitored by Sebutape® on forehead and nose.
Results
The stable toner base with the greatest preference (83.20 ± 1.85%) was incorporated with 3%, 4.5%, and 6% of guava extract. The toners were stable with none of skin irritation. The toner with 6% guava extract was selected for efficacy evaluation. Guava toner significantly reduced oiliness of forehead (13.10 ± 3.67%, P < 0.05) and nose (21.43 ± 3.21%, P < 0.001) better than the base toner. The activity on nose was significantly noted (10.72 ± 3.51%, P < 0.05) since the 3rd week of application.
Conclusions
Anti‐sebum guava toner was efficiently evidence approved and suitable for a daily application to improve the efficacy.
... Altogether, the studies included 478 volunteers (224 men and 192 women), whose age ranged (between 18 and 70 years, only two studies were carried out with children aged 8 to 10 years) [24] and aged 6 to 9 years. [26] The included studies were carried out in India (two studies), [19,24] Thailand (two studies), [21,25] Mexico (two studies), [26,27] Indonesia (one study), [22] Austria (one study) [20] and in Japan (one study). [23] The included studies were performed according to the design: double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled; parallelized, randomized clinical study; randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled; parallel-group, randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled trial and open-label. ...
... A study was conducted with P. guajava-based toners [21] to treat acne and, consequently, the minimization of pores due to the pharmacological profiles of the tannins present in the fruit (reduces the oiliness of the forehead and nose). Finally, two studies were performed with capsules- [23,27] containing P. guajava leaf extract to investigate the preventive effect on the symptoms of osteoarthritis (relief of pain in the knees due to the inhibition of cartilage degeneration and inflammation), and reduction of abdominal pain and cramps in patients with gastrointestinal problems. ...
... [20] Thailand Randomized single-blind placebo-controlled. 21 Thai volunteers (17 ♀ and 4 ♂) aged between 20-35y. ...
The lifestyle changes observed in recent years are related to the increase in the chronic diseases that have become the main causes of mortality and increased expenditure on systems worldwide. Psidium guajava L. (guava) has several medicinal properties, e.g., antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities, which could be useful for the prevention and treatment of diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, and cancer. This study aimed to review the effects of P. guajava on human health and evaluate the commercial importance of the fruit. PubMed, EMBASE, and COCHRANE databases were searched, and PRISMA guidelines were followed. Studies have reported that the bioactive phytochemicals of P. guajava can treat respiratory disorders, gastroenteritis, diarrhea and dysentery, wounds, ulcers, rheumatic pain, toothache, anorexia, cholera, laryngitis, and skin disorders. Therefore, the use of P. guajava contributes to reducing the risk of or treati3ng several chronic diseases. It is also important for the economy of several countries that produce the fruit. It is noteworthy that this plant is safe for consumption since in vivo tests did not show toxicity, and mutagenicity, in addition to the low potential for drug interactions. The by-products of the fruit (seeds and skin) show future application in the food and cosmetic industries.
... Moreover, emblica contains several phenolic compounds, including a large amount of tannin [15,16], which has an astringent effect [17] and an inhibitory effect on 5α-reductase, abilities that can reduce the skin sebum secretion [18,19]. The phenolic hydroxyl groups in tannin have an essential role in the astringent effect by bringing about protein complexes [20][21][22]; as a result, plants containing tannin, including apple peel, green tea, and guava leaves, have been studied for their anti-sebum activity [23][24][25]. So far, there have been no studies about the clinical efficacy of emblica fruits in terms of anti-sebum activity. ...
... The pH value of toners was measured by pH meter (Model: ST3100, OHAUS, Parsippany, NJ, USA). Moreover, the 3 toner base formulas were tested for their stability by a centrifugation assay (Model: Sorvall Super T21 Benchtop Centrifuge, GMI, Ramsey, MN, USA) with 3000 rpm for 30 min at 25 • C, and 6 cycles of accelerated testing (heating and cooling at 4 • C and 45 • C for 48 h of each cycle) [24,25]. The most preferred formula, selected by conducting preference tests of the formulas, which passed the previous stability test, was mixed with different concentrations (1-3%) of emblica extract that were also tested for their stability again, as mentioned earlier. ...
... (2) Measuring the erythema index of the irritated skin by using SkinColorCatch ® , an instrument that detects the light reflecting from the skin with its RGB sensor to obtain the erythema index, acquired from Delfin Technologies (Kuopio, Finland), immediately before occlusion and after removal of the 24-h occlusion patches at 1, 24, 48, and 72 h [29]. The split-face, randomized, single-blind placebo-controlled study model [24,25,30] was adapted to study the anti-sebum efficacy of emblica toner. The volunteers were randomized to apply emblica toner on the left or right side of each of their faces and apply toner base on the other side with unwashed (nontreatment) and only-washed (control treatment) skin positions added to the middle of the forehead. ...
Oily skin is a problem for a large number of people, especially in tropical countries. This condition results in comedones, inflammatory acne, and other aesthetic problems in the skin. Emblica (Phyllanthus emblica L.) has a number of benefits for the skin; for instance, there were some studies that suggested that emblica has skin whitening effects, and anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities; however, its anti-sebum efficacy has not been reported.The objective of this research was to study the anti-sebum efficacy of emblica toner on facial skin. The toner base was formulated, accelerated stability was tested, and preferences were evaluated in 10 volunteers. The toner base with the highest preference score was mixed with emblica extract. Then, the toner base and emblica toners were assessed for skin irritation by a single patch test in 30 volunteers. The anti-sebum efficacy was conducted using the randomized, single-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face method with unwashed and only-washed skin positions added to the middle of the forehead in the same group of volunteers assessed by a skin sebum measurement, SebumScale®, at 1 h before the test, once after washing, and 1, 2, 3 and 4 h after applying the toners on forehead and cheek skin. The stable toner base with the highest preference (85.6 ± 1.8%) was mixed with 1%, 2%, and 3% emblica extract. The toners were stable and did not cause any skin irritation. The 3% emblica toner was chosen for efficacy evaluation. The casual sebum levels of the forehead skin and cheek skin were 66.66 ± 7.01 and 56.12 ± 7.75 µg/cm2, respectively. The sebum level of the unwashed skin position changed (5.0 ± 1.66%) insignificantly up to 4 h (p > 0.05). In comparison, the sebum level of the only-washed skin position was recovered to the casual sebum level (99.4 ± 1.23%) within 3 h. Furthermore, the anti-sebum efficacy of the emblica toner (23.5 ± 1.24%) was higher than that of the toner base (12.0 ± 1.52%) (p < 0.05). The anti-sebum efficacy of emblica toner on cheek skin (26.9 ± 1.78%) was higher than that on forehead skin (20.1 ± 1.34%) (p < 0.05). In summary, the model of evaluation of anti-sebum efficacy used in this study has been found to be practical, and the emblica toner is safe and has apparent anti-sebum efficacy on facial skin.
... This characteristic includes a shiny appearance, greasy skin, increased thickness, enlarged pores, and a higher tendency towards acne due to the overproduction of sebum caused by 5-α-reductase type 1 [7,9,10]. In addition, the shiny appearance and dilated pores are evident on the face, negatively affecting self-esteem and compromising the quality of life [9,11]. Additionally, it can be found in the literature that an alteration in sebum production promotes a disbalance in the hydrolipidic mantle, leading to changes in cutaneous homeostasis [2]. ...
... These secondary metabolites are known for their astringent and antioxidant properties, respectively [9,15,16]. The tannin acts on sebum control by suppressing the production of surface lipids and the secretion of sebum [11]. Additionally, tannin has been reported to be effective in inhibiting 5-α-reductase enzymes in vitro [7]. ...
Background:
Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.
Methods:
Twenty-eight healthy females aged between 45 and 59 years were enrolled. Measurements of the stratum corneum water content, sebum content, transepidermal water loss, skin microrelief, and pores count were performed before and after the 28-day formulation application.
Results:
The mature skin presented as oily with wrinkles and pores. The proposed formulation significantly reduced the sebum content and the number of fine and large pores and improved skin microrelief and hydration after a 28-day period of the application when compared to the vehicle.
Conclusions:
The proposed formulation was effective in oily mature skin treatment, improving its general skin aging and oiliness conditions, and reducing pores count in just 28 days.
... Fonte: Pongsakornpaisan (2019) As emulsões são bem utilizadas em bases para o preparo de cosméticos. Foi observado o uso da quercetina na incorporação de emulsões com utilização da tecnologia de nanopartículas. ...
... The volunteers were directed to apply the base or C. militaris polysaccharides creams on either side of their faces on the evening after they had a casual facial cleaned, left overnight and rinsed off in the morning for 7 consecutive days. Preference (%) on the preparations was scored in terms of color, odor, viscosity and texture before use, spreadability and absorbability during use, and skin moisturizing and smoothing after use system [15]. ...
Background
Topical product derived from the fungus Cordyceps militaris was explored as a feasible method for an industrial practice.
Results
The mycelium residue of C. militaris that was industrial biotechnological produced was extracted with water at different time conditions under ambient temperature, filtered and lyophilized. The extracts were all light to dark brown powder. The 24 h extraction was significantly (p < 0.01) highest in an extractive yield and total polysaccharides content (TPC) (43.33 ± 0.99% and 144.02 ± 2.06 mg glucose/g crude extract). This extract was proved to be stable following an accelerated stability test with the insignificant (p > 0.05) reduction of TPC (4.95 ± 2.23%). Topical product containing the extract were developed. Skin care preparation containing 0.2% extract was exhibited as the appropriated amount giving the stable cream. The developed C. militaris polysaccharide cream was confirmed safe and gained more than 70% of the overall preferences examined in 20 female volunteers.
Conclusions
Cordyceps militaris mycelium residue is a beneficial source for pharmaceutical products. The C. militaris polysaccharides extract was prepared and qualified in terms of active content and stability. The extract was shown to be compatible with the available cosmetic ingredients. The safe and preferred C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics was developed. Accordingly, C. militaris polysaccharides skin care cosmetics that meets all the quality characters which are stable, safe, usable and efficient.
... Pongsakornpaisan et al. (116) conducted a study on the efficacy of their anti-sebum toner based on guava leaf extract with 10 volunteers. The authors observed that guava toner suppressed the sebum level in the nose and forehead area after 28 days of treatment and concluded that guava may be a good agent for cosmetic products. ...
Mexico is one of the largest guava producers in the world, so it has access to a huge amount of waste and byproducts obtained after the industrial processing of the fruit. This review discusses the potential recovery of this residue for its application as an antimicrobial agent, considering the phytochemical composition, the bioactivity reported in-vivo and in-vitro, and the toxicology of the plant. Nowadays there is a growing demand for more natural and safer products, so the use of guava extracts is an interesting initiative, especially due to its availability in the country, its wide variety of traditional uses, and its phytochemical profile. This review highlights the importance and potential antimicrobial use of this plant in today's world.
... The efficacy evaluation was determined by following the modified method [16]. The skin tests were carried out in a room of 20 ± 1 • C and 40-60% relative humidity. ...
Oily skin from overactive sebaceous glands affects self-confidence and personality. There is report of an association between steroid 5-alpha reductase gene (SRD5A) expression and facial sebum production. There is no study of the effect of Asparagus racemosus Willd. root extract on the regulation of SRD5A mRNA expression and anti-sebum efficacy. This study extracted A. racemosus using the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid technique with ethanol and investigated its biological compounds and activities. The A. racemosus root extract had a high content of polyphenolic compounds, including quercetin, naringenin, and p-coumaric acid, and DPPH scavenging activity comparable to that of the standard L-ascorbic acid. A. racemosus root extract showed not only a significant reduction in SRD5A1 and SRD5A2 mRNA expression by about 45.45% and 90.86%, respectively, but also a reduction in the in vivo anti-sebum efficacy in male volunteers, with significantly superior percentage changes in facial sebum production and a reduction in the percentages of pore area after 15 and 30 days of treatment. It can be concluded that A. racemosus root extract with a high content of polyphenol compounds, great antioxidant effects, promising downregulation of SRD5A1 and SRD5A2, and predominant facial sebum reduction and pore-minimizing efficacy could be a candidate for an anti-sebum and pore-minimizing active ingredient to serve in functional cosmetic applications.
... Pongsakornpaisan et al. (2018) treated acne not by directly attacking the causative bacteria, but instead reduced sebum levels using guava leaf extract to create a guava toner. Finally, they observed a significant suppression of sebum secretion [164]. Yasukawa et al. (2015) also showed the inhibitory effect that guava leaves exerted on inflammation in ear edemas, even alleviating the tumoral growing and other skin injuries in rats [165]. ...
The increasing production of tropical fruits followed by their processing results in tons of waste, such as skins or seeds. However, these by-products have been reported to be rich in bioactive compounds (BACs) with excellent properties of interest in the cosmeceutical industry: antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and photoprotective properties. This review summarizes the tropical fruits most produced worldwide, their bioactive composition and the most important and studied therapeutic properties that their by-products can contribute to skin health, as well as the different approaches for obtaining these compounds using techniques by conventional (Soxhlet, liquid-liquid extraction or maceration) and non-conventional extractions (supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) and two-phase aqueous system), followed by their identification by HPLC-MS or GC-MS analysis. Moreover, this work encompasses several studies that may prove the effects of seeds and skins from tropical fruits against oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation, acne, aging or UV radiation. Therefore, the investigation of functional components present in tropical fruit by-products under a circular bioeconomy model could be of great interest for the cosmeceutical industry and a very promising option for obtaining new cosmeceutical formulations.
... H. rhamnoides oil is used as a soothing agent after cosmeceutical procedures and retards skin maturation (Chandra et al., 2018). Secretion of excess sebum through overactive sebaceous glands leads to oily facial skin (Pongsakornpaisan et al., 2019). Sea buckthorn berry oil offers skin healing benefits similar to natural skin sebum lipids (Proorocu, 2015). ...
Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) is an underutilized ecologically and economically important wind-pollinated, low-demanding, dioecious, thorny, and winter hardy tree or shrub native to Europe and Asia. Since ancient times, people living in the cold deserts used it as folk medicine, nutritional supplement, fuel, fence, and fodder. Hence, popularly known as the ‘Gold Mine’ of cold deserts. Sea buckthorn fruits are nutritionally rich with a high amount of vitamins. It also contains bioactive compounds like tannins, flavonoids, sterols, carotenoids, tocopherols, and lipids, therefore, implying as an excellent source for discovering new drugs and improving the food quality of humans. Unfortunately, aside from excellent traits still very limited progress has been made in the improvement of sea buckthorn through conventional breeding programs therefore, the application of modern biotechnological and high-throughput sequencing tools for the bio-prospection of agronomically important traits is needed to speed up the breeding programs. Highlighting several uses of sea buckthorn, it made a case for its status as an underutilized crop with the potential to contribute to our food and nutritional base. It is an interesting subject of future research and scientific publications, as highlights the scientific insights into the existing know-how i.e. historical perspective, taxonomical and botanical description, genetic diversity and distribution; medicinal and nutritional importance, market potential and key players, breeding constraints, biotechnological advancements, omics-based interventions, and a path forward for adoption and large-scale cultivation of sea buckthorn to provide a clear concept for future research.
... Face toner can function as a cleanser after making facial repairs with facial cleansers to remove excess sebum on facial skin so that this face toner has anti-sebum activity (33,34). In addition, facial toner is also useful for hydrating the skin to maintain its moisture (35). ...
Saffron (Crocus sativus) is a plant that has been widely used in Asia, especially in the health sector. This can be related to other than that saffron is also known for its use as a cosmetic because Saffron has various kinds of pharmacological activities beneficial to human skin. Today's cosmetic users prefer cosmetics with herbal or natural ingredients, especially in Indonesia. This happens because it is considered that herbal cosmetics are safer and harmless in long-term use. Therefore, it is necessary to do related act ivities of saffron as a cosmetic ingredient. This is narrative research where the data is obtained from PubMed, Science Direct, and Google Scholar with keywords Saffron, Saffron for cosmetics, and others. There were eight references, with inclusion criteria being national and international journals and national websites published in 2011-2021, especially regarding the study of saffron activity as an ingredient for cosmetics. Then the data is analyzed narratively. It was found that Saffron (Crocus sativus) contains compounds that have a cosmetic activity such as safranal which can be used as a perfume, crocin as an antioxidant and as anti-dark spot, crocin, safranal, and crocetin as anti-UV, crocin, and crocetin as an anti-inflammatory and as coloring pigment in cosmetics, vitamin C, flavonoids and zinc as a face toner, kaempferol, crocin and crocetin as anti-wrinkle, zeaxanthin, lycopene, carotene, crocetin, picrocrocin, kaempferol, and crocin as anti-aging. Saffron (Crocus sativus) has various beneficial activities for the skin, so it can be used as an ingredient in making cosmetics.Keywords : Cosmetics, Herbal, Saffron, Herbal Cosmetics, Active Ingredient
... Guava leaves [Psidium guajava L. (Myrtaceae)], which contain phytochemical phenolic compounds (Morais-Braga et al. 2017), are regionally used as an alternative medicine for disinfecting the human gastrointestinal tract (Daswani et al. 2011;de Souza et al. 2014). Moreover, guava leaf extracts have astringent properties resulting from tannin phenolics (Ashok and Upadhyaya 2012) and can be utilised as a skin toner for tightening skin pores and decreasing oily skin (Pongsakornpaisan et al. 2019). Further, menthol, at various concentrations, is generally used as a cosmetic cooling agent in healthcare products (Kamatou et al. 2013). ...
Context
Psidium guajava L. (Myrtaceae) leaf contains a wide variety of bioactive compounds that contribute valuable effects on human well-being.
Objective
This study investigates the influence of guava leaf extract-menthol toner on thermoregulation, including perspiration, skin temperature, and recovery heart rate.
Materials and methods
This randomised, placebo-controlled clinical trial assessed the effects of the guava leaf extract-menthol toner and placebo with a 1-week washout period. Sixty-four participants were enrolled. The participants exercised on a treadmill until a 75% heart rate reserve was achieved for 5 min, followed by a 5 min post-exercise rest period. The skin temperature and heart rate were then measured before 5 mL of the testing product was sprayed to specific areas of the body, left it for 30 sec before wiped off. Post-exercise perspiration and skin temperatures were collected by sweat patches and measured by the Skin-thermometer ST500, respectively. A 20 min heart rate monitoring period started 10 min after the exercise and measured every 2 min intervals.
Results
Use of the toner significantly reduced post-exercise perspiration to approximately half of the baseline and placebo use values (p < 0.05). Furthermore, relative heart rate changes showed no significant differences among the tests (p > 0.05). Skin temperature was also unaffected (p > 0.05).
Discussion and Conclusion
Guava leaf extract-menthol toner reduced perspiration by astringent effects but did not influence heat dissipation and did not affect cardiovascular mechanism compared to the controls. Additional cleaning with guava leaf extract-menthol toner could offer better hygiene after a workout.
Bitter gourd extract (Momordica charantia L) contains secondary metabolites such as flavonoids, alkaloids, and saponins that can be antibacterial against acne-causing bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes). Momordica charantia L., could make into facial toner preparations to prevent the emergence and worsen acne. It is formulated with various concentrations of polysorbate 20 and performs stability testing. This study aimed at the optimal formula and analyzed the variations in the concentration effect of polysorbate 20 on the bitter gourd extract facial toner preparation. Bitter gourd extract would make into facial toner preparation with variations in the concentration of polysorbate 20. The accelerated stability test with the cycling test method includes before and after organoleptic, homogeneity, viscosity, and pH tests. The organoleptic stability result shows both stable formulas had the same liquid form, clear brown color, and characteristic rose odor. All formulations are stable on homogeneity, in which the particles are evenly mixed. The Formula I viscosity value is constantly stabilized and meets the parameters, while formula II is not but meets the parameters. The pH stability values of both formulas are stable and meet the parameters. Formula I is more optimal than formula II and the difference in surfactant concentration of polysorbate 20 has no effect on organoleptic, homogeneity, and pH but will affect viscosity.
Kulit membutuhkan senyawa antioksidan yang dapat menangkal radikal bebas dari berbagai faktor eksternal, salah satunya polusi udara. Tumbuhan bakau jenis pedada (Sonneratia caseolaris) dan katang-katang (Ipomoea pes-caprae) dikenal memiliki aktivitas antioksidan yang kuat. Face mist adalah salah satu produk perawatan kulit yang dapat dibuat dengan memanfaatkan bahan aktif ekstrak dari daun pedada dan katang-katang. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk menentukan formula produk face mist terbaik dengan penambahan ekstrak daun pedada, daun katang-katang, serta kombinasi dua ekstrak tersebut melalui parameter aktivitas antioksidan, kelembaban, pH, dan sensori. Penelitian ini menggunakan satu faktor yaitu jenis pelarut ekstrak. Sampel face mist dalam penelitian dibagi menjadi empat, yaitu face mist tanpa penambahan ekstrak (P0), facemist dengan penambahan ekstrak etanol 70% dan akuades dari daun pedada (P1), face mist dengan penambahan ekstrak etanol 70% dan akuades dari daun katang-katang (P2), dan face mist gabungan penambahan masing-masing ekstrak etanol dan akuades dari daun pedada dan daun katang-katang (P3). Analisis data menggunakan uji Kruskal Wallis dan two way ANOVA. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa formula facemist terbaik diperoleh pada perlakuan penambahan ekstrak etanol 70% daun pedada (P1) dengan aktivitas antioksidan (IC50) sebesar 3.836,01 µg/mL, kelembaban 52,35%, nilai pH 4,64, dan disukai panelis terutama parameter aroma, tekstur, dan homogenitas.
The fruit of Hippophae rhamnoides L. is not only used as delicious food with nutritional values, but also served as traditional Chinese medicine with multiple bioactivities. In order to find structurally interesting and bioactive isolates from the fruits of H. rhamnoides L., a bioassay-guided investigation was applied to seek the hepatoprotective and hypolipidemic ingredients in this study. As a result, three new (10 → 10'')-biauronlignans (1-3), three new 10-(4''-hydroxy-benzyl)-auronlignans (4-6), three new 10-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-auronlignans (7-9), and eleven known auronlignan derivatives (10-20) were isolated from the fruits of H. rhamnoides L. for the first time, and their structures were determined by extensive and comprehensive IR, UV, NMR, MS spectral analyses and compared with the reported references. Among them, compounds 1, 4, 7, 11, 15, and 19 showed moderate hepatoprotective activities against the damage in acetaminophen-induced HepG2 cells; compounds 2, 5, 8, and 12 exhibited moderate inhibition of pancreatic lipase activity, and decreased the moderately FFA-induced lipid accumulation in HepG2 liver cells. The plausible biogenetic pathway and preliminary structure-activity relationship of the selected compounds are scientifically summarized and discussed in this study.
Ethnopharmacological relevance
Hippophae rhamnoides L. (family- Elaeagnaceae, common name- Sea buckthorn) is a flowering shrub native to cold temperate regions of Eurasia. Berries, seeds, and leaves of the plant are widely used as a folk medicine for the treatment of hypertension, oedema, inflammation, tissue-regeneration, skin-grafts, burns/injury, wounds, and ulcers.
Aim of the review
This article reviews geographical distribution, botanical description, phytochemistry, ethnomedicinal uses, and dermatological activities including, cosmeceuticals of H. rhamnoides available in the market.
Materials and methods
The data has been compiled employing the various search engines like Science Direct, Pub Med, Google, Google Scholar, EBSCO, SCOPUS, and SciVal.
Results and discussion
H. rhamnoides is primarily found in cold-temperate regions of Eurasia and was first located in China. Berries are the most prominent feature of the plant. Phytochemical studies reveal the presence of a wide variety of compounds like flavonoids, carotenoids, polyunsaturated fatty acids, minerals, vitamins, Omega 3, 6, 9 and rarest Omega 7 and about 190 bioactive compounds. The pharmacological studies demonstrated, sea buckthorn to exhibit antibacterial, anti-sebum, antifungal, anti-psoriasis, anti-atopic dermatitis and wound healing activities. Besides, it has also been included in various cosmeceuticals for its use in skin-eventone, smoothening, rejuvenation, removal of wrinkles, scars, and pigmentation, and also in hair related problems.
Conclusion
Pharmacological evaluation confirmed the ethnomedically claimed biological actions and other beneficial effects on the skin of H. rhamnoides using scientifically accepted protocols and controls, although some of the studies require more elaborative studies. Its full application in the dermatology may be attributed to the presence of a variety of flavonoids, vitamins, and unsaturated fatty acids. Great use of plant in the traditional system for dermatological aspect, demands further comprehensive phytochemical work based on its actual use by the traditional population. Demonstration of the plant in the traditional system, pharmacology, cosmeceuticals not only demands its further therapeutic studies but also warrants focus towards its cultivation and propagation across the globe.
Green tea (Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze, Theaceae) polyphenols have activities against skin disorders; however, anti-sebum efficacy of green tea cosmetic has sparely been reported. The facial tonner containing green tea was therefore developed and clinical evaluated. The base formulas which stabled following accelerated tests were sensorial assessed in ten volunteers. The base with hydroxyethyl cellulose, glycerin and panthenol (totally 3.6%) with the significant (p < 0.05) preference (82.3 ± 0.55%) over the others was further developed to green tea preparations. All of the products were stable and caused none of skin irritation as closed patch tested in twenty volunteers. Thereafter, they were clinical evaluated in the same group of the volunteers and monitored with Sebumeter® by means of a split-face, randomized single-blind, placebo-controlled study. Anti-greasy efficacy of 2, 4.5 and 7% green tea tonners were 3.47 ± 0.10, 8.18 ± 0.44 and 17.87 ± 0.46% following 14 days of facial treatment. The efficiency was pronounced at the end of the study; day 28 (8.48 ± 0.13, 20.26 ± 1.03 and 31.57 ± 1.22%). Anti-sebum efficacy of the 4.5 and 7% green tea tonners were significantly better than the base formula (day 14; p < 0.05, day 28; p < 0.01). The efficacy of 28 days treatment was significantly better than 14 days (p < 0.05). The safe and efficient green tea tonner for oily face treatment was therefore approved in this context.
Green tea has cosmetic benefits that include activities against androgen disorders. A hair tonic containing green tea for reduction of scalp sebum was developed and clinically evaluated. Stable green tea hair tonics were closed-patch tested and clinically evaluated in 20 volunteers for 28 days by using a Sebumerer (R). Hair tonic base with glycerin and butylene glycol (total 4%) gained the highest consumers' preference was incorporated with green tea extract. All of the products were stable and none caused skin irritation. Green tea hair tonic (2%) significantly (p <= 0.024) lowered scalp sebum for 21 and 28 days following the application, suggesting that this topical therapy of scalp greasiness is safe and efficient.
Background:
Natural remedies for treating dandruff are becoming popular.
Materials and methods:
A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-head efficacy evaluation was conducted 30 Thai volunteers aged 20-60 years experiencing dandruff measured at level 3 on D-Squame® scale. An easy to use hair tonic containing essential oil of lemongrass (Cymbopogon flexuosus) active against lipophilic yeasts was developed and then evaluated for efficacy and preference. The base formulation with the significantly highest preference (p < 0.05) was stowed with the oil at 5, 10 or 15%. Subjects applied the formulation twice a day, and an efficacy assessment with D-Squame® scale was conducted on days 7 and 14 of application.
Results:
The application of lemongrass oil hair tonics with 5, 10, or 15% reduced dandruff significant (p < 0.005) at day 7 (33, 75, and 51%) and increased the effect even more (p < 0.005) at day 14 (52, 81, and 74%).
Conclusion:
The hair tonic formulation with 10% of lemongrass oil seems to be the most effective preparation.
Unripe green apples contain condensed tannins at 10 times higher levels than ripe apples. Tannin not only has strong antioxidant activity, but also an astringent property. In this study, we investigated the effects of green apple rind (GAR) extracts in reducing facial pores and sebum secretion. Among the GAR extracts, the 70% ethanol GAR extract showed the highest antioxidant activity and tannin content. Hence, it was further fractionated with different solvents. Among these rind solvent fractions, the ethyl acetate fraction of the extract (GAR-E) showed astringent activity. Additionally, it exhibited inhibitory effects on 5-α reductase, and induced type 1 collagen and involucrin synthesis. These results suggest that GAR-E can be applied in cosmetics to reduce facial pore size and sebum secretion.
Ceylon spinach, or Basella alba, is a mucilaginous vegetable crop having high economic, nutritional and medicinal value. It has long been used in traditional skin remedies, although to date few reports have focused on the scientific basis of its skin hydrating properties, or protocols for extract quality control. Extracts of this crop were therefore prepared, and evaluated for their efficacy towards skin hydration. An extraction time of 3 h provided the highest yield, and maximum total polysaccharide content, with the following extract specifications: yield (2.93 ± 0.83%), moisture content (12.51 ± 0.52%), total polysaccharide and total tannin contents (0.37 ± 0.00 mg glucose/g and 4.18 ± 0.09 μg tannic acid/g, respectively), astringency (245.86 ± 0.05 mg tannic acid/g), solubility and swelling capacity in water (0.02 ± 0.00% and 4.17 ± 0.58%, respectively), viscosity (1541.33 ± 22.12 cps) and water and oil absorption capacities (1.13 ± 0.03 g/g and 2.82 ± 0.12 g/g, respectively). Evaluation in 22 Thai volunteers indicated that the extract caused no skin irritation, and that skin hydrating efficacy (0.05–0.10%) was 7–28% better than the control in the short term (0–210 min; Corneometer® CM 825). These results highlight the potential for B. alba usage in healthcare products including pharmaceutics and cosmetics, and provide useful guidelines for extract preparation, quality control, standardization and specifications for industrial processing.
Ethnopharmacological relevance:
The use of popular plants has guided pharmaceutical research aimed at combating pathogenic microorganisms. Psidium guajava L. is a plant of great versatility and it has been used both as food and as a therapeutic agent. Root, bark, leaves, fruits, flowers and seeds are used for medicinal purposes, especially in infusions and decoctions for oral and topical use. P. guajava is utilized in symptomatology treatment related to organ malfunction and of diseases caused by the action of pathogenic and/or opportunistic microorganisms. Many pharmacological studies have been conducted to scientifically assess its therapeutic potential.
Aims of study:
The aim of the current study is to relate the popular use of this plant and its bioscientific assessment as a therapeutic agent in the treatment of diseases and symptoms caused by the action of protozoa, fungi, bacteria and viruses, and also evaluate the safety for the usage and the interaction with drugs.
Materials and methods:
A bibliographic database the ethnobiology of Psidium guajava (2005-2015) and the pharmacological infections and parasitic diseases (2010-2015). Searches were done in scientific disclosure databases such as PubMed, Web of Science, and Scopus.
Results:
P. guajava leaf extracts were scientifically investigated for the treatment of diseases caused by protozoa (leishmaniasis, malaria, giardiasis, amoebiasis and trichomoniasis), fungi (dermatosis, systemic and mucocutaneous diseases), bacteria (respiratory, mucocutaneous and gastrointestinal infections, cholera, gastritis and stomach ulcers, oral and periodontal infections, venereal diseases and urinary infections) and viruses (herpes, influenza, rotavirus disease and AIDS). The toxicity assays indicates the safet for usage.
Conclusions:
Highlight and elucidate the therapeutic potential and versatility of P. guajava. They also justify using ethnobiology efficiency to guide pharmacological studies. Some limitations can be observed in this kind of study, as the lack for ethnobiological informations and the absence of some controls in the assays.
Tannins are a heterogeneous group of high MW, water-soluble, polyphenolic compounds, naturally present in cereals, leguminous seeds and, predominantly, in many fruits and vegetables, where they provide protection against a wide range of biotic and abiotic stressors. Tannins exert several pharmacological effects, including antioxidant and free radical scavenging activity as well as antimicrobial, anti-cancer, anti-nutritional and cardio-protective properties. They also seem to exert beneficial effects on metabolic disorders and prevent the onset of several oxidative stress-related diseases. Although the bioavailability and pharmacokinetic data for these phytochemicals are still sparse, gut absorption of these compounds seems to be inversely correlated with the degree of polymerization. Further studies are mandatory to better clarify how these molecules and their metabolites are able to cross the intestinal barrier in order to exert their biological properties. This review summarizes the current literature on tannins, focusing on the main, recently proposed mechanisms of action that underlie their pharmacological and disease-prevention properties, as well as their bioavailability, safety and toxicology.
Linked articles:
This article is part of a themed section on Principles of Pharmacological Research of Nutraceuticals. To view the other articles in this section visit http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/bph.v174.11/issuetoc.
Sebum is produced exclusively by the sebaceous glands. It serves as a vehicle for odors involved in sexual and social attraction. By a similar mechanism, the newborn child commonly recognizes his/her mother’s body odor. The reciprocal recognition is likely during the first weeks of life when the sebaceous glands are active in the newborn. It is noteworthy that the individual sebum-driven scents of each human being are commonly detected by dogs on skin and clothes. Other volatile compounds corresponding to pheromones are produced by mammalian skin in a mixture of apocrine sweat and sebum. In addition, sebum brings vitamin E, the melanocyte-stimulating hormone isotype α (α-MSH), and other various compounds to the stratum corneum (SC).
Objective:
This preliminary study investigated both the impact of oily skin on quality of life (QoL) and the agreement between subjective oily skin self-assessment and objective skin surface sebum measurement in young to middle-aged Chinese women in Beijing.
Methods:
A 18-item Chinese version of the Oily Skin Self-Image Questionnaire (OSSIQ) was used to assess the impact of oily skin on QoL in 300 healthy female subjects (age groups: 20-25; 26-30; 31-35,). The subjects were divided equally into the oily skin group and the non-oily skin group based on their self-perception of skin oiliness. The level of skin surface lipids (SSL) was measured on the middle of the forehead, and both cheeks using the Sebumeter(®). In order to assess the agreement between self-perceived skin oiliness and measured SSL, we tentatively used the SSL median value as a dividing point to regroup all subjects.
Results:
The results indicate that the Chinese version of the OSSIQ distinguished the oily skin group from the non-oily skin group. Subjects in the oily skin group had significant higher emotional status score and behavior score when compared with subjects in the non-oily skin group. Subjects in the oily skin group had higher SSL when compared with subjects in the non-oily skin group, especially in younger age groups. The agreement between self-perceived skin oiliness and measured SSL was moderately strong in younger age groups, and declined with age.
Conclusion:
These results strongly suggest that having oily skin can cause a significant negative impact on QoL among Chinese women. The Chinese version of the OSSIQ is a reliable and valid tool for assessing the impact of oily skin on QoL. The accuracy of oily skin self-assessment declines with age.
Oily skin (seborrhea) is a common cosmetic problem that occurs when oversized sebaceous glands produce excessive amounts of sebum giving the appearance of shiny and greasy skin. This paper overviews the main concepts of sebaceous gland anatomy and physiology, including the biosynthesis, storage and release of sebum, as well as its relationship to skin hydration and water barrier function. We also address how skin oiliness may vary according to diet, age, gender, ethnicity and hot humid climates. The deeper understanding of this skin type provides the opportunity to better guide patients regarding skin care and also assist in the development of sebosuppressive agents.
The methanol extract of the leaves of Psidium guajava was found to inhibit paw oedema induced by carrageenan in rats and pain induced by acetic acid in mice, and exhibited an antipyretic effect. Oral administration of the extract reduced intestinal transit time and prevented castor oil-induced diarrhoea in mice. A CNS depressant activity was exhibited by the extract by potentiating the phenobarbitone sleeping time in mice.
Hyperglycaemia causes increased protein glycation and the formation of early glycation products and advanced glycation end products (AGEs) which are major factors responsible for the complications of diabetes. This study investigated the ability of guava leaf and compounds to inhibit glycation process in an albumin/glucose model system and compared the potency of these extracts with Polyphenon 60 which is a commercial polyphenol product extracted from green tea and with the standard antiglycation agent, aminoguanidine. The results showed that the inhibitory effects of guava leaf extracts on the formation of α-dicarbonyl compounds were over 95% at 50 μg/ml. Phenolic compounds present, namely gallic acid, catechin and quercetin exhibited over 80% inhibitory effects, but ferulic acid showed no activity. The guava leaf extracts also showed strong inhibitory effects on the production of Amadori products and AGEs from albumin in the presence of glucose. The phenolic compounds also showed strong inhibitory effects on the glycation of albumin, especially quercetin exhibited over 95% inhibitory effects at 100 μg/ml. According to the results obtained, guava leaf extracts are potent antiglycation agents, which can be of great value in the preventive glycation-associated complications in diabetes.
Oily skin condition is caused by an excessive sebaceous gland activity, resulting in an overproduction of sebum, giving the skin an undesired shiny, oily appearance.
To identify an active substance that reduces sebum production in human sebaceous glands by regulating fat metabolism in a natural way.
The effects of L-carnitine on β-oxidation and intracellular lipid content were investigated in vitro using the human sebaceous cell line SZ95. Penetration experiments utilizing pig skin as a model system were performed with a cosmetic formulation containing radioactively labeled L-carnitine. To determine the in vivo effects, a vehicle-controlled, randomized study was carried out using a cosmetic formulation containing 2%l-carnitine for 3 weeks. Sebum production was investigated utilizing the lipid-absorbent Sebutape(®).
SZ95 cells treated with 0.5% or 1% L-carnitine demonstrated a significant concentration-dependent increase in β-oxidation compared to control cells. Following the treatment with L-carnitine, intracellular lipid concentrations decreased significantly in a dose-dependent manner compared with untreated control cells. In skin penetration experiments, topically applied L-carnitine reached the dermis. In addition, topical in vivo application of a formulation containing 2% L-carnitine for 3 weeks significantly decreased the sebum secretion rate compared to the treatment with vehicle.
Our results show that the treatment of human sebocytes with L-carnitine significantly augments β-oxidation and significantly decreases intracellular lipid content in human sebocytes. Topically applied L-carnitine is bioavailable and leads to a significant sebum reduction in vivo. In conclusion, L-carnitine represents a valuable compound, produced naturally within the body, for the topical treatment of oily skin in humans.
Synopsis
Body malodour, including foot odour, suppresses social interaction by diminishing self‐confidence and accelerating damage to the wearer’s clothes and shoes. Most treatment agents, including aluminium anti‐perspirant salts, inhibit the growth of malodourous bacteria. These metallic salts also reduce sweat by blocking the excretory ducts of sweat glands, minimizing the water source that supports bacterial growth. However, there are some drawback effects that limit the use of aluminium anti‐perspirant salts. In addition, over‐the‐counter anti‐perspirant and deodourant products may not be sufficiently effective for heavy sweaters, and strong malodour producers. Body odour treatment agents are rarely mentioned in the literature compared with other cosmetic ingredients. This review briefly summarizes the relationship among sweat, skin bacteria, and body odour; describes how odourous acids, thiols, and steroids are formed; and discusses the active ingredients, including metallic salts and herbs, that are used to treat body odour. A new class of ingredients that function by regulating the release of malodourants will also be described. These ingredients do not alter the balance of the skin flora.
Acne vulgaris suppresses an individual’s self-confidence by causing distress with regard to physical appearance, which affects a significant number of individuals during puberty and is delineated by adolescence. Several treatments have been introduced to decrease the aesthetic and psychological problems caused by acne. The topical application of therapeutic agents has been found to be more feasible than hormonal treatment and laser therapy. The ingredients in topical acne treatments, particularly herbs and naturally derived compounds, have received considerable interest as they have fewer adverse effects than synthetic agents.
L’acné vulgaire touche à l’assurance d’un individu en causant une détresse face à son apparence physique. Elle affecte un nombre important d’individus pendant la puberté et est associée à l’adolescence. Plusieurs traitements ont été proposés pour diminuer les problèmes esthétiques et psychologiques causés par l’acné. L’application topique d’agents thérapeutiques a été estimée plus aisée qu’un traitement hormonal et une thérapie laser. Les ingrédients des traitements topiques de l’acné, particulièrement les plantes et les composés naturels dérivés ont suscité un intérêt considérable par leurs moindres effets indésirables que les ingrédients synthétiques.
Synopsis
Overproduction of sebum is very common and results in an undesirable oily, shiny complexion with enlarged pores. Sebum secretion is basically under the control of 5‐α reductase, and more particularly under that of type 1 isozyme. But it is also highly sensitive to environmental factors such as temperature, humidity and food. Moreover, in Asia, the edicts of a flawless facial skin turn oily skin into a major concern for Asian women. We identified Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract as an interesting ingredient for reducing the oily appearance of skin thanks to its ability to reduce 5‐α reductase type 1 expression in normal human epidermal keratinocytes in vitro . This was confirmed ex vivo , where Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract was shown to reduce 5‐α reductase activity as well as the production of squalene, one of the main components of sebum that was used as a tracer of sebum. To evaluate the efficacy of Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract at reducing sebum‐related skin imperfections in vivo , we performed two different clinical studies, one in France on a panel of Caucasian volunteers and the other one in Thailand on a panel of Asian volunteers. Using instrumental techniques as well as clinical evaluation and self‐evaluation, we could highlight that an O/W cosmetic formula containing 2% of Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract could visibly reduce the oily appearance of skin as well as the size of pores, thus leading to a significant improvement of complexion evenness and radiance. Overall, the results obtained were better than those observed with the same formula containing 1% of zinc gluconate, an ingredient frequently used in oily skin care products.
Skin Aging Book: An Integrated Approach to Biochemistry and Product Development
- CK Angerhofer
- D Maes
- PU Giacomoni
Handbook of Non‐invasive Methods and the Skin
- C Gammal
- S Gammal
- A Pagnoni
- AN Kligman