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Los Quelites de la Sierra Norte de Puebla, México: Inventario y formas de preparación
Abstract
The Sierra Norte de Puebla, is a region with cultural and environmental diversity where traditional agriculture is practiced. The use of plants is vast, with more than 600 species of useful plants. The 'quelites' (edible greens), constitute between 18%-38% of edible plants and there are in total 80 species, 15 of which are exotic. The quelites can be consumed row, although they are commonly consumed after being cooked in different manners; plants parts used as quelites are young leaves and stems, sprouts, petioles, seedlings or complete plants without roots. The 'quelites' are produced in different agroecosystems under a wide spectrum of ways of management, from gathering to cultivation. The botanical families with more species used as 'quelites' are Fabaceae, Cucurbitaceae, Solanaceae, Piperaceae, Amaranthaceae and Begoniaceae. Sorne species are sold in local markets and another are for autosupply.
... Los tallos, pecíolos o raramente las hojas son consumidas en diferentes grados de preparación: crudas como "golosinas" o "botanas" o eventualmente en ensaladas, aunque se resalta la potencial toxicidad del oxalato de calcio contenido en los tejidos de la planta y se menciona que son consumidos en cantidades escasas (Laferrière, 1992;Rajbhandary, 2013); con un grado de preparación mínimo, como ingredientes culinarios, en la preparación de salsas para acompañar otros alimentos como pescado o cerdo o fermentados a la manera de pepinillos y consumidos como tales (Laferrière, 1992;Rajbhandary, 2013); o finalmente, como ingredientes principales o "quelites" en platillos preparados en comunidades indígenas de la Sierra Norte de Puebla, en los que son los ingredientes principales (Basurto-Peña et al., 1998, 2003. ...
... En diferentes trabajos de tipo etnobotánico enfocados a las plantas útiles y dentro de éstas, aquellas usadas como comestibles, se registran algunas especies de Begonia (Basurto-Peña et al., 1998, 2003Castañeda-Guerrero et al., 2020;Cuevas, 1991;M. Martínez, 1989;M. ...
... Considerando investigaciones anteriores en las cuales se reportan begonias comestibles en esta región (Basurto-Peña et al., 1998, 2003Castañeda-Guerrero et al., 2020;Cuevas, 1991;M. A. Martínez et al., 2007;Martínez M.A. et al., 1995), en este trabajo se reporta por primera vez como comestible para la comunidad y para la Sierra Norte de Puebla la especie Begonia thiemei; la cual es mencionada por Espinoza-Pérez et al. (2021) como subutilizada en los agroecosistemas de la región, sin especificar su uso; de acuerdo con los entrevistados este xocoyol "lo trajeron de otro lugar", inclusive, es probable que en las fechas en que se hicieron los estudios anteriores, esta especie no se había fomentado en los huertos familiares. ...
In the community of Santiago Ecatlán, Jonotla, Puebla, located in a cultural region inhabited by Totonacos, the residents take advantage of various plant species with different uses. Among the edible species, some of the Begonia genus (Begoniaceae) stand out, valued mainly for their cultural importance. The petioles of these begonias are consumed as "quelites" and are appreciated both for their flavor and for the economic income they generate through their sale. Factors such as cultural erosion, climate change, the exchange of species between communities from different states, in addition to advances in taxonomic studies, can modify the existing information from previous works about plants. Therefore, the objective of this work was to update the information on edible begonias, their propagation and form of consumption in the community of Ecatlán, through an ethnobotanical study. The information was collected through participant observation, open and semi-structured interviews, and the collection of botanical samples. The following species were identified: Begonia thiemei and B. manicata as the most used, B. heracleifolia with two variants, a probable hybrid between B. heracleifolia and B. manicata, which had possibly been reported by other authors as B. barkeri or B. aff. barkeri and another identified only to the genus, whose morphological characteristics suggest that it could be a new species for science. Regarding the species mentioned by other authors as edible in the area, there was agreement on the use of Begonia heracleifolia, B. manicata and the probable hybrid mentioned above. However, no evidence was found of the presence and/or use of B. fusca, B. incarnata and B. glabra, reported in previous works. Finally, it was recorded that B. nelumbonifolia is not appreciated as food by the local inhabitants. The identified species were found in family gardens, coffee plantations, "ranches" and along roads. Based on the information collected, it was found that the propagation of begonias is carried out in two ways: 1) through the rhizomes and 2) in the case of B. thiemei, by cutting the mature leaf, approximately 2 -3 cm below the leaf blade, and its subsequent planting in soil. These species are available throughout the year, and the preparation of the traditional dish includes various ingredients, including species from the Apiaceae and Piperaceae families.
... On the other side, the availability of quelites throughout the years, depends on the weather conditions and the management they receive. Those that are collected, are only consumed for a short season of the year, while those that are cultivated have a greater utilization period because their availability depends on the farmer decision to sow them (Basurto, P. F., et al., 1998). However, much of this agrobiodiversity is in danger due to several factors. ...
... Por otra parte, la disponibilidad de los quelites a lo largo del año depende de las condiciones edafoclimáticas y del manejo que reciben. Los que son recolectados se consumen solo durante una corta temporada del año, mientras que los que son cultivados tienen un periodo de aprovechamiento mayor, debido a que su disponibilidad depende de la decisión del agricultor para sembrarlos (Basurto, P. F., et al., 1998). Sin embargo, gran parte de esta agrobiodiversidad se encuentra en riesgo por diversos factores. ...
Los quelites son plantas silvestres comestibles, las cuales se conocen como verduras en algunas regiones del estado de Chiapas y crecen regularmente en las milpas y huertos familiares. El objetivo del presente trabajo es conocer la diversidad, abundancia y usos de las verduras en las milpas de Sombra Carrizal, Huitiupán, Chiapas. Se utilizaron métodos cuantitativos y cualitativos, principalmente el enfoque etnográfico. Las técnicas empleadas, fueron la entrevista a profundidad, observación participante y el muestreo de las verduras presentes en 10 milpas. Se encontraron ocho especies de verduras: hierbamora blanca (Solanum nigrescens), hierbamora morada (Solanum americanum), cuña o cuñay (Witheringia meiantha), chicorio (Sonchus oleraceus), tsuy (Liabum glabrum o Sinclairia discolor), mostaza (Brassica juncea) y dos variedades de coliflor (Brassica sp). Las especies más abundantes fueron la hierbamora morada, la mostaza y las dos variedades de coliflor. Estas especies son las más importantes para el consumo de las familias campesinas de Sombra Carrizal. Las formas de preparación más comunes son cocido, frito, asado y crudo. En algunos casos se aprovechan como plantas forrajeras para la alimentación de animales de traspatio y cuando hay excedentes se comercializan al interior de la comunidad. La mayoría de las especies identificadas se propagan de manera natural. Sin embargo, en el caso de la coliflor, requiere que los campesinos esparzan las semillas en los campos de cultivo. A pesar de la pérdida de conocimiento sobre su manejo y el incremento en el uso de herbicidas, las verduras siguen presentes en las milpas de Sombra Carrizal.
... Other important groups of plants are quelites, such as E. coralloides and P. icosandra, which have been reported as edible in other states of Mexico and have been appreciated for their nutritional and medicinal properties (Barros and Buenrostro 2007;Basurto-Peña et al. 1998;Díez-Urdanivia and Ysunza-Ogazón 2012;Gheno-Heredia et al. 2011;Linares et al. 2019), but not with the galactagogue uses recorded in the present study. The use of these plants has demonstrated that food has played an important role in the health of communities throughout history (Barros and Buenrostro 2007). ...
Midwives/healers assist women in rural communities in Mexico and use medicinal plants to relieve different conditions related to reproductive health. This knowledge has been passed down and preserved through generations. The aims of the study were: 1) to document the floristic richness of medicinal plants used in the reproductive health of Zapotec women from the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca; 2) to document events, stages, and conditions during reproductive health; and 3) to provide evidence on the continuity of midwifery practices in the region. We interviewed 100 Zapotec women, 11 midwives/healers, the municipal authorities of four municipalities: Tabaá, Yojovi, Solaga, and Analco, and personnel from each health center. We recorded 66 plant species, with cinnamon, avocado, and rue the most mentioned. Asteraceae, Lamiaceae, Poaceae and Fabaceae were the most abundant. We identified five events with different stages/conditions during the reproductive health of women. The number of species mentioned by Analco collaborators differed by age category, indicating a breakdown in traditional knowledge. Multivariate analysis comparing the knowledge of native and introduced species between the collaborators of four municipalities revealed that they were clustered because of the mention of some introduced species (Analco) or because some species were mentioned once (Laxopa). However, the same analysis using native species shows no grouping, suggesting that women share similar knowledge. Traditional midwifery practices and medicinal plants used during the reproductive stage of Zapotec women are still based on native Mexican plants, and their persistent use will depend on the context of each locality and the global medicine system.
... In our research we found similarities in these aspects: edible plants for commercialization and subsistence that received intensive protection and propagation practices, were those with high cultural value, were frequently consumed, were perceived as scarce in their natural environment, and feasible for management in ex situ environments. Outstanding products are some "quelites" (tender edible vegetables of several species) In other rural regions, these species are also managed to increase their availability and consumption due to their nutritional importance [2,31,55]. Edible NTFPs used for subsistence versus commercialization showed some differences in their management strategies. For subsistence, management focused on propagation of species exclusively in homegardens, while species with commercial value were managed across different types of agroforestry systems. ...
Background
The commercialization of non-timber forest products (NTFPs) provides income for rural indigenous households. The integration of NTFPs into formal markets tends to intensify management practices to ensure production and monetary benefits. However, more research is needed to understand the motivations for managing of commercialized species. We examine the influence of social, ecological, and economic factors on traditional management and how they drive the adoption of more or less intensive practices for subsistence and commercially traded NTFPs.
Methods
The study was conducted in the Nahua community of Ixtacxochitla, in the Sierra Negra of central Mexico, where we conducted free lists and semi-structured interviews in 32% of the 88 households to assess socio-ecological variables related to management practices. In addition, we interviewed local traders to assess commercial variables used in a cost–benefit model to calculate the net annual income of commercialized species. Non-metric multidimensional scaling was used to analyze relationships between socio-ecological variables and management practices. We also explored the relationship between management and commercial factors using principal component analysis.
Results
We recorded 64 plant and mushroom species of NTFPs used for medicinal, ornamental, ceremonial, and edible purposes, 36 of which are commercialized in the municipal market of Coyomeapan. The commercialized species generated an average annual net income of MXN 67,526 (USD 3924) per family, with five species contributing the most. Species both used for both subsistence and commercialization were managed through incipient in situ gathering, tolerance in ex situ anthropogenic areas, and intensive protection and propagation efforts in ex situ environments. Even the five species with the highest commercial returns were managed across this gradient of practices. Key factors influencing the adoption of more intensive species management practices were feasibility of management, type of species use, ecological abundance, frequency of consumption, and cultural importance.
Conclusions
The intensification of NTFPs management is not solely driven by the commercial value of the products or the level of income generated. Instead, the interaction between socio-ecological and economic factors determines the extent of management practices. The main constraint to the implementation of intensive practices has been the inability to manage species outside their natural habitats, despite their cultural significance and frequent consumption. Understanding the factors involved in the harvesting of NTFPs can serve as the basis for future research aimed at analyzing the conditions for successful and sustainable NTFPs commercialization.
... De las especies halladas en dichos registros, una baja proporción se usa a menudo y muchas no se mencionaron. En esta situación se destacan los quelites y las frutas, grupos en los que menos de la mitad Fuente: elaboración propia con datos de Martínez et al. (1995), Basurto-Peña, Martínez y Villalobos (1998), Martínez et al. (2007) y datos del trabajo de campo. ...
Objetivo: caracterizar el patrón alimentario de las familias campesinas y determinar la influencia de los factores socioeconómicos en el origen y consumo de los alimentos en el Totonacapan poblano (México). Metodología: con la técnica de recordatorio de 24 horas, se aplicó una encuesta a 270 familias sobre su dieta y se documentó la información socioeconómica. Resultados: se registraron 159 alimentos, de los cuales 57.6% tiene procedencia externa e incluyen grasas, lácteos, huevo, pan, pasta de trigo, sal y alimentos y bebidas altas en azúcares. El maíz, algunos frijoles y chiles, las hojas verdes “quelites”, las frutas, la carne de pollo y el puerco proceden en gran medida de la producción propia, local y regional. Valor: se aportan datos sobre la dieta campesina actual y sus implicaciones para la agrodiversidad y la salud. Conclusiones: la dieta campesina se está desligando de la producción de autoconsumo debido a la migración asociada con bajos ingresos.
... Amaranth is widely used in the diet of indigenous communities as part of their customs, reflecting the traditional use of regional biodiversity but is an undervalued and underutilized resource in terms of its nutritional contribution and its functional compounds (Castro-Lara et al., 2011;Mapes and Basurto, 2016;Santiago-Sáenz et al., 2019). For this reason, it is common for cultivated and wild species to be frequently reported in ethnobotanical studies in Mesoamerica (Basurto-Peña et al., 1998;Castro-Lara et al., 2014;Balcazar-Quiñones et al., 2020). However, it remains necessary to document the specific contributions of the nutritional and bioactive compounds of amaranth with regard to improving the health of families. ...
The objective was to evaluate the effect of crop location,
fertilization, species and genotypes on the content of flavonoids
and total polyphenols and on antioxidant activity in the leaves
and sprouts of amaranth. Sowing and cultivation were carried
out in Huaquechula, Puebla, and Tepetitla, Tlaxcala, Mexico
under a factorial arrangement of 16 genotypes of Amaranthus
hypochondriacus L. (2), A. hybridus L. (8) and A. cruentus L. (6)
and two fertilization conditions (with and without 18N-07P-09K)
under a randomized block design with two repetitions. At 40 days
after planting, a sample of leaves and sprouts was collected,
dried at room temperature and ground; later, the flavonoids, total polyphenols and antioxidant activity (methods DPPH and
FRAP) were quantified by UV-visible spectrophotometry and
reference standards. The results showed that crop location, use
or nonuse of fertilizer, species and genotype had a significant
effect on flavonoids, total polyphenols and antioxidant activity.
Huaquechula had days with low precipitation and high
temperatures; such environmental conditions influenced the
content of flavonoids and total polyphenols and antioxidant
activity. A. hybridus showed high flavonoid and total polyphenol
values that were significantly different from the values recorded
for A. hypochondriacus and A. cruentus.
En la avicultura tradicional el consumo de plantas frescas es parte importante de la alimentación y componente fundamental de la técnica indígena de crianza avícola. Por ello, el objetivo es conocer los estudios que han incluido algún quelite para la alimentación de aves domésticas. Quelite es un término usado para denominar a las plantas tiernas comestibles los cuales son aprovechados como planta entera, rebrotes, ramas, hojas, peciolos, tallos o flores. En la presente revisión se considerarán los quelites Amaranto (Amarantus sp.), Chepil (Crotalaria longirostrada), Epazote (Dysphania ambrosioides), Hierba mora (Solanum americanum), Hierba santa (Piper autitum), Guaje (Leucaena leucocephala), Huazontle (Chenopodium berlandieri subesp. nuttalliae) y Verdolaga (Portuca olerecea). Se presentan características nutricionales y nutracéuticas de dichos quelites. En pruebas de producción de huevo y carne, tanto en gallinas como en guajolotes nativos, se presentan los principales resultados de dichos estudios. El uso de quelites en la avicultura ha comenzado a probarse con la finalidad de reducir los costos de producción, sin afectar las variables productivas ni la calidad de huevo o carne. A pesar que se ha reportado información contradictoria, existe suficiente evidencia para continuar esta línea de estudio. Está probado que los quelites tienen diferentes propiedades nutricionales y nutracéuticas, las cuales se pretenden aprovechar en favor de los productores y los consumidores; sin embargo, falta mucha investigación al respecto.
Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.) is an important food resource for indigenous peoples of Mxico. Grain-producing species are mostly cultivated plants, while the species used as vegetables are commonly encouraged in maize plots. Notable biological differences exist between these two types of amaranths. This study analyzes the morphophysiological variation in some Mexican species of Amaranthus and its relationship to the use and management of this taxa. A sample of individuals grown from 14 field collections representing 3 species and putative hybrid derivatives were grown in experimental plots and 18 morphological and physiological characters were measured. A statistical multivariate analysis was performed on these data. The results show that the grain-producing plants tend to allocate a high proportion of energy to the production of inflorescences while the plants used as vegetables allocate a higher proportion of biomass to the foliage. This suggests thatdomestication of Mexican species of Amaranthus have taken two different evolutionary paths depending upon the form of use and management by humans.
In addition to the seeds consumed as a pseudocereal, amaranths provide important edible greens. In the Sierra Norte de Puebla,
Mexico, the management and utilization of amaranths occur within a wide variety of environmental, biological and cultural
contexts. This paper presents both the results of ethnobotanical exploration in this region and the comparison of different
species and races of amaranths used as greens that were grown in common experimental garden plots in Chalco, Mexico. Ethnobotanical
exploration, cultural practices and growth analysis suggests that these plants have been selected for their use as leafy vegetables.
The experimental data support the divergence of amaranths used for greens from those used principally for edible seed.
Los amarantos además de proporcionar semillas para su uso como pseudocereal producen hojas comestibles. En la región de la
Sierra Norte de Puebla, la utilización y el manejo de los amarantos tiene lugar dentro de una enorme variedad de condiciones
ambientales, biológicas y culturales. En este trabajo se presentan los resultados obtenidos a partir de la exploración etnobotánica
realizada en la Sierra Norte de Puebla asi como los datos obtenidos a partir de un estudio de análisis de crecimiento llevadp
a cabo en Chalco. Estado de México, en donde se comparan diferentes especies y razas de amaranto que se usan a manera de verdura.
La exploración etnobotánica, las prácticas culturales y el estudio de análisis de crecimiento sugieren que estas plantas han
sido seleccionadas para ser usadas como verdura y que difieren de las que se usan como grano.
Serie antropológica No. 59
- Unam Pológicas
- D F México
pológicas, UNAM. México, D. F. Serie antropológica No.
59. 484 pp.