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Essential fatty acids: Biological functions and potential applications in the skin
Abstract
Burr and Burr reported in 1929 “a new deficiency disease produced by the rigid exclusion of fat from the diet.”1 Rodents fed a fat-free diet showed reduced growth and reproductive failure, accompanied by two prominent changes in the skin, that is, increased scaliness and impaired barrier function.1,2 Reversal of the features of deficiency by administration of linoleic acid (LA), led to the concept of essential fatty acids (EFA) that cannot be synthesized by the higher animals.2 Similarities between the clinical features of EFA deficiency and atopic dermatitis led Hansen in 1937 to discover low blood levels of unsaturated fat in atopic children,3 and he later reported that EFA-deficient infants developed an eczematous rash, which responded to LA supplements.4 Several studies had previously examined a range of dietary oil supplements in atopic dermatitis,5-8 with generally reported benefit.
... Physical and structural properties of hydration, oil holding capacity [6,8,17] Fatty acids * Stones, olive oil Decreases the permeability barrier (blocks complex lipids in sebum produced by sebaceous glands); signals keratinocytes to regulate epidermal homeostasis; promotes acidification of stratum corneum; increases hydration, softness, elasticity and the protective barrier of the skin [6,22,23] Essential amino acids Stones [6,24] Squalene * Pomace, olive oil Emollient, moisturizing, biological filter of singlet oxygen; sink for lipophilic xenobiotics [6,25,26] Maslinic acid Olive oil, olive pomace Antioxidant, antiproliferative effect of murine melanoma cells, anti-inflammatory [18,27,28] Carotenoids * (β-carotene) OMWW Antioxidant [19] Tocopherols OMWW Antioxidant [19] K, Ca, Na OMWW, pomace Hydration, stiffness, controlling pH [6,17] * Indicates the compounds most widely used in the cosmetic industry. ...
... Essential polyunsaturated fatty acids (EFAs) linoleic (C18:2) and linolenic (C18:3) are important components of the cell membrane that cannot be synthesized by our body and whose topical application may contribute to the improvement of skin conditions, such as psoriasis, topical dermatitis and eczema. They also have anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory effects, protecting the skin against UV-induced damage [22,23,72]. ...
Currently, in addition to the use of olive oil in cosmetics, the use of olive-derived bioactives and their incorporation into cosmetics is a growing trend. The olive oil industry produces vast quantities of by-products, such as olive mill wastewater, olive pomace and leaves from which new ingredients may be obtained for cosmetic use. In this way, by-products are revalorized, which contributes to the implementation of a sustainable economy or upcycling. This review intends to provide a detailed overview of the different extraction techniques reported in order to obtain the bioactive compounds of cosmetic value that can be found in olive by-products: fatty acids, tocopherols, polyphenols, phytosterols and squalene. Different extraction techniques are presented, including some traditional techniques (solid–liquid extraction) and more novel or “greener” ones: ultrasound, microwave, supercritical extraction, pressurized fluids and deep eutectic solvents. Additionally, different applications of olive by-products in skin care products are explored: emollient, antioxidant, anti-age, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antifungal and antibacterial, and the perspective of consumers is also considered since they increasingly demand products formulated with natural ingredients.
... According to the experimental literature, this is not surprising knowing that LA has anti-inflammatory effects. 17,18,37 Since LA is a potent naturally occurring ligand and activator of PPRAα, 38 skin inflammation of irritant contact dermatitis is reduced by the topical application of LA in a mice model. 39 Moreover, an erythema-reducing effect was already reported in a previous clinical study in an irritative contact dermatitis model using a different LAcontaining product. ...
Background
Application of topical moisturizers is an essential part of the management of atopic dermatitis (AD). Linoleic acid (LA), the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis, and its derivatives have an essential role in the structure and function of the epidermal barrier, and their defects are prominent in AD. The aim of this study was to compare the efficacy and safety of two cosmetic products containing either LA or urea in patients with AD.
Patients and methods
A total of 20 patients with AD who met the eligibility criteria and provided written informed consents were enrolled in this randomized, intra-individual split-body, single-center trial. Symmetrical lesions of patients were randomized for treatment with LA- or urea-containing water-in-oil (w/o) emulsions applied two to three times daily for 4 weeks. The efficacy of the two products was evaluated by local Scoring Atopic Dermatitis (SCORAD) of both lesions and also patient (or guardian) satisfaction. In addition, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum (SC) hydration, pH, sebum, temperature, erythema, melanin content, and ultrasonographic thickness and echo density of epidermis and dermis were measured before, and 2 and 4 weeks after, treatment.
Results
Four weeks of treatment with the LA-containing product resulted in a significant decrease in local SCORAD, TEWL, erythema, and echo density of dermis, as well as an increase in SC hydration compared to baseline. The urea-containing product also reduced the local SCO-RAD and echo density of dermis and increased SC hydration. In contrast to the LA-containing product, changes in TEWL and erythema were not significant. Moreover, the reduction of erythema was significantly higher in the LA-containing product-treated side compared to the urea-containing product-treated side (p = 0.006).
Conclusion
Both LA- or urea-containing w/o emulsions can significantly improve barrier dysfunction and clinical severity of AD. In agreement with literature, it was confirmed that an LA-containing w/o emulsion exhibited erythema-reducing effects. Since emollients should be used on a regular basis, patients should choose a product by individual preference following recommendation by their dermatologists.
... Oat triglycerides are rich in omega-3 linoleic and omega-6 linolenic acids and essential fatty acids 7 which are necessary for normal mammalian health and important for skin barrier function. [8][9][10] In addition, oat lipids contain important mammalian cell membrane components, such as phospholipids, glycolipids, and sterols. Lipid oxidation protection is supplied by mixed tocopherols (vitamin E) and tocotrienols. ...
Oat ( Avena sativa ) in colloidal form is a centuries-old topical treatment for a variety of skin conditions, including skin rashes, erythema, burns, itch, and eczema; however, few studies have investigated the exact mechanism of action for the anti-inflammatory activity of colloidal oatmeal.
Four extracts of colloidal oatmeal were made with various solvents and tested in anti-inflammatory and antioxidant assays. In addition, an investigator blind study was performed with twenty-nine healthy female subjects who exhibited bilateral mild to moderate itch with moderate to severe dry skin on their lower legs. Subjects were treated with a colloidal oatmeal skin protectant lotion.
Extracts of colloidal oatmeal diminished pro-inflammatory cytokines in vitro and the colloidal oat skin protectant lotion showed significant clinical improvements in skin dryness, scaling, roughness, and itch intensity.
These results demonstrate that colloidal oat extracts exhibit direct anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, which may provide the mechanisms for observed dermatological benefits while using the colloidal oatmeal skin protectant lotion.
J Drugs Dermatol. 2015;14(1):43-48.
... (classically 'emollients') boost biological functions in the skin barrier and normalize cellular proliferation, improving barrier performance. Well-known examples include the application of skin lipids such as ceramides, unsaturated fatty acids such as conjugated linoleic acid and related triglycerides such as sunflower seed oil (SSO) [16], which can be broken down by the skin to the essential fatty acid linoleic acid, a precursor of ceramide synthesis. The fourth group of compounds are anti-irritant actives that aim to prevent inflammation (erythema) and itching, protecting the bar-rier from repetitions of the skin irritation cycle (Fig. 1). ...
In skin care, the axilla is a biologically unique site requiring specialized attention and care. This area of skin is often subject to hair removal techniques, such as shaving and plucking. These procedures damage the skin leading to erythema and dryness in the short term, and in some cases, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIHP) in the long term. This study will (i) briefly review the biology and unique properties of axillary skin, and (ii) describe the characteristics of the irritation and damage induced by contemporary skin care habits and resolution of these responses by the use of efficacious skin moisturizing technology. With respect to the latter, we propose that there are five groups of compounds, defined according to their mechanism of action, which are particularly relevant to the care of damaged axillary skin.
Dans le domaine des soins de la peau, l'aisselle est un site biologiquement unique qui nécessite une attention et des soins spécialisés. Cette zone de la peau est souvent exposée à des techniques d’épilation, tels que le rasage et l'arrachage. Ces procédures endommagent la peau ce qui peut conduire à des érythèmes et provoquer de la sécheresse à court terme, et dans certains cas, une hyperpigmentation post-inflammatoire (PIPH) dans le long terme. Cet article (i) passe brièvement en revue la biologie et les propriétés uniques de la peau axillaire, et (ii) décrit les caractéristiques de l'irritation et des dommages induits par les habitudes actuelles des soins de la peau, pour proposer les solutions à ces réactions cutanées qui consistent en une technologie efficace d'hydratation. En ce qui concerne ce dernier point, nous estimons qu'il y a cinq groupes de composés, définis en fonction de leur mécanisme d'action, qui sont particulièrement pertinents pour le soin de la peau axillaire endommagé.
Objective: The aim of this study was to develop, characterize and evaluate stability of a gel containing coenzyme Q10 (Q10)-loaded liposomes, and enhance the stability of Q10 in the nanocarrier-containing gel compared to the conventional gel.
Methods: Q10-loaded liposome dispersions prepared from unsaturated or saturated lecithin, were characterized for particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), zeta-potential, pH value, oxidation index, Q10-content and morphology, and incorporated into carbomer gel. Liposome gels and liposome-free gel were analyzed for flow properties, pH values, Q10-content, and liposomes size and PDI (liposome gels), 48h after preparation and in predetermined time intervals during 6 months storage at different temperatures in order to predict their long term stability.
Results: Liposomes were of small particle size, homogeneous, negatively charged, and their incorporation into gel did not significantly change (p > 0.05) their particle size and PDI. All gels revealed non-Newtonian, shear-thinning plastic flow behavior during storage with no marked changes in rheological parameters. Storage of gels did not significantly influence the pH value (p > 0.05), while it significantly decreased Q10-content (p < 0.05). Q10 was significantly more (p < 0.05) stable in liposome gel containing unsaturated lecithin liposomes (G1) than in gel containing saturated lecithin liposomes (G2) and liposome-free gel (G3).
Conclusion: Q10-loaded liposome gel G1 was the optimal formulation, since during storage at different temperatures, it did not show significant increase in liposome size and PDI, it provided significantly higher stability for Q10 than other gels and its pH value was suitable for skin application. Due to limited Q10-stability it should be stored at 4°C.
In toto, there is strong circumstantial evidence from both experimental and clinical studies to support a role for omega-3 FA in the prevention of non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC). In experimental animal studies there is direct evidence that dietary omega-3 FA inhibits ultraviolet radiation (UVR) carcinogenic expression, with regard to both increased tumor latent period and reduced tumor multiplicity. Equivalent levels of omega-6 FA increase UVR carcinogenic expression. Dietary omega-3 FA dramatically reduces the plasma and cutaneous pro-inflammatory and immunosuppressive PGE(2) levels in mice. Dietary omega-6 FA increases prostaglandin E synthase type 2 (PGE(2)) level. Dietary omega-3 FA significantly reduces the inflammatory response and sustains, or enhances, the delayed type hypersensitivity immune response in mice when compared to an equivalent dietary level of omega-6 FA. Supplementary omega-3 FA significantly increases the UVR-mediated erythema threshold in humans. Supplementary omega-3 FA significantly reduces the level of pro-inflammatory and immunosuppressive PGE(2) levels in Ultraviolet B-irradiated human skin.
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