ArticlePDF Available

Designing a sustainable brand strategy for the fashion industry

Authors:
  • International Society For Sustainable Fashion
  • International Society For Sustainable Fashion

Abstract and Figures

Fashion is widely considered the second most destructive industry to the environment, with a global supply chain employing 58 million people worldwide. During the period of 2000–14, clothing production increased by 50 per cent, as fast-fashion evolved and the luxury sector ascended. Recently, a number of high-profile fashion designers are taking the decision to consciously depart from the constraints of the seasonal fashion calendar, enabling them to reconnect with the creative process, focusing on quality and customer experience. ‘With fashion there is too much fear, not enough time, and not enough love’ (Elbaz 2017). While sustainable fashion has often been considered a consumer-led movement, which brands have been pressured to act upon, it is important that businesses demonstrate social responsibility through a collaborative approach incorporating design, innovation, technology and communication to successfully create desirable sustainable products with integrity. With constant news updates as a result of technology and the overriding competitiveness of social media, brands need to design and launch unique products that attract attention. This article will explore the connection between sustainable design and brand identity in relation to the fashion industry. The article will identify economic and commercial business opportunities, incorporating how combining sustainable design principles with communicative story telling provides additional emotional value for both designer and consumer, and aligning brands with social and environmental issues that are directly related to the products they are selling.
Content may be subject to copyright.
CC 5 (1) pp. 7–18 Intellect Limited 2018
Clothing Cultures
Volume 5 Number 1
© 2018 Intellect Ltd Editorial. English language. doi: 10.1386/cc.5.1.7_2
www.intellectbooks.com 7
ABSTRACT
Fashion is widely considered the second most destructive industry to the environ-
ment, with a global supply chain employing 58 million people worldwide. During
the period of 2000–14, clothing production increased by 50 per cent, as fast-fashion
evolved and the luxury sector ascended. Recently, a number of high-profile fashion
designers are taking the decision to consciously depart from the constraints of the
seasonal fashion calendar, enabling them to reconnect with the creative process,
focusing on quality and customer experience.‘With fashion there is too much fear,
not enough time, and not enough love’ (Elbaz 2017). While sustainable fashion
has often been considered a consumer-led movement, which brands have been
pressured to act upon, it is important that businesses demonstrate social respon-
sibility through a collaborative approach incorporating design, innovation, tech-
nology and communication to successfully create desirable sustainable products
KEYWORDS
fashion
design
business
sustainability
sustainable fashion
textiles
social responsibility
consumption
DEBBIE MOORHOUSE AND DANIELLE MOORHOUSE
International Society for Sustainable Fashion
Designing a sustainable
brand strategy for the
fashion industry
cc
Clothing Cultures
Intellect
10.1386/cc.5.1.7_2
5
1
7
18
© 2018 Intellect Ltd
2018
EDITORIAL
SPECIAL ISSUE: SUSTAINABLE FASHION
Debbie Moorhouse | Danielle Moorhouse
8 Clothing Cultures
with integrity. With constant news updates as a result of technology and the over-
riding competitiveness of social media, brands need to design and launch unique
products that attract attention. This article will explore the connection between
sustainable design and brand identity in relation to the fashion industry. The arti-
cle will identify economic and commercial business opportunities, incorporating
how combining sustainable design principles with communicative story telling
provides additional emotional value for both designer and consumer, and aligning
brands with social and environmental issues that are directly related to the prod-
ucts they are selling.
1. Introduction
Described as the second most polluting industry to the environment, next to
oil, pressure has increased from NGOs, designers, brands and consumers to
develop more sustainable practices within the fashion design industry. The
Brundtland definition of sustainability is that which‘meets the needs of the
present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their
own needs’ (1987). This has more recently been defined as having three key
elements: environmental sustainability, social sustainability and economic
sustainability. For future sustainability problems to be solved, all three areas
need to be sustainable (Thwink.org 2018).
Both design and business processes begin by identifying a product or
service, the target market and a problem or challenge that needs to be
addressed. It is vital that brands apply this entrepreneurial concept to inte-
grate sustainability across the entire business beginning with the design stage
to maximize overall brand value and impact. As a fashion designer, business
owner and organization founder, this article addresses sustainability from
three different perspectives: design and aesthetics, consumption and sustain-
able development in industry. The article features three industry initiatives
that have been established to promote sustainability in fashion, including
the International Society for Sustainable Fashion and Sustainable Fashion
London.
2. Design and innovation
The definition of design in the fashion industry would be the creation of
a detailed drawing of a garment, from which this garment can be made.
Ultimately, the definition of design is subjective, is open to interpretation and
cannot be rigorously defined. What we can say about design is that it is the
discovery of something new, and what we would also now accept, in the light
of the environmental cost now highlighted in the fashion industry, is that
good design must include some level of sustainability.
To create sustainable outcomes, traditional design practices need to
be challenged and assessed as to the best way to serve consumers. It is the
responsibility of designers to push new innovation in design thinking to
change perception and traditional mindset, particularly towards trends and
value creation. Eighty per cent of environmental impact can be solved at the
design stage (Murray 2013). By the‘design stage’, we may be looking at the
lone designer, sketching from a concept, to realize apparel aimed at a target
market. In reality, the more intelligent business model would involve the
whole team of designer, pattern cutter and sample machinists, who can all
Editorial
www.intellectbooks.com 9
improve on the design idea and in turn, the ethics of the design, before it
reaches the production stages (Thomas 2017).
Instead of focusing on design as a means of making more products,
designers must now take into account consumer needs and challenge design
to create garments that have a second and third life, from textiles that provide
the quality and strength required to sustain longevity, both in design aesthetic
and in robustness, keeping garments from going into landfills (2018). There
will always be consumers who just want the short-term fashion‘hit’; however
the long-term, loyal consumer, who keeps coming back, is concerned with the
companies ethics and values as well as the aesthetics of the collection (2017).
The traditional business structure of the fashion industry, from the origins
of the haute couture system, with the designer as the highest role one could
achieve, is outdated under a circular, sustainable closed-loop system.
I. Sustainable designers and brands
A designer or brand that considers itself sustainable can take on many forms,
either social, economic or environmental, or a combination of these.
Honestby is a womenswear brand launched in 2012 by Bruno Pieters,
formerly a Creative Director of Hugo Boss. Disillusioned with the excesses of
the fashion industry, Pieters adopted the ethos of a brand with a‘radical new
concept’ of 100 per cent transparency in all information about the produc-
tion process, materials used, even going as far as a complete ‘cost break-
down of its products’ (honestly.com). Pieters believes that by disclosing all this
information we are not only celebrating fashion, but also the story behind it,
giving consumers an informed choice about their purchases. Helping design-
ers follow his example, Pieters invites designers to collaborate with the brand,
in store and online. British designer Christopher Raeburn uses the‘Remade’
philosophy of remade, reduced and recycled. Whilst‘reworking surplus mate-
rials, products and artefacts’ into the collections and minimizing carbon foot-
print by localized manufacturing, the heart of the designers ethos is providing
the customer with a‘completely unique and desirable product’ and still main-
taining‘strong sustainable choices’(christopherraeburn.co.uk).
Founded by Ali Hewson and husband, Bono, Edun is a fashion brand
committed to a fair trade approach (LVMH.com). Instead of donating money
to provide African aid, Edun is a brand that focuses on creating manufacturing
jobs in Africa, paying a living wage and creating sustainable growth. By 2014,
85 per cent of Edun collections was produced in Africa (Ulasewicz 2015). The
ethos of the brand provides the consumer with a feel good feeling, with every
purchase, helping those less fortunate to create a better life for themselves. A
similar brand identity was created by Safia Minney for People Tree, who used
traditional artisan skills and local communities throughout Africa and Asia to
produce their garments. Going even further People Tree have created a foun-
dation that supports farmers and artisans through scaling up training, techni-
cal support and environmental initiatives and through raising awareness and
campaigning for fair and sustainable fashion (peopletree.co.uk).
Reformation, a sustainable women’s wear brand, appealing to the middle
market, provides a fun, sexy aesthetic to their clothing ranges, eschewing the
ethical cliché. Information about sustainable fabrics and environmental issues
caused by the fashion industry are all there on their website; however its light-
hearted approach attracts another customer, one that is not necessarily an
activist or moral guardian of the planet.
Debbie Moorhouse | Danielle Moorhouse
10 Clothing Cultures
a. Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood is the embodiment of British fashion, and a brand that
stands out from the crowd. Constantly placing its roots in the‘Britishness’ of
Harris tweeds, wools and linens, the brand is also notoriously known for its
campaigns and activist message. In the 1980s and 1990s, the fashion designer
was synonymous with the Punk rebellion and anti-establishment attitude. The
brand has continued to evolve over the years and now primarily focuses on a
luxury market, although the activist message still remains. VW Africa, Climate
Revolution,‘go green’ runway shows and political advertising campaigns are
all part of the marketing message. The collections have been scaled down,‘in
an attempt to convince her fans to buy according to quality rather than
quantity’(fabrikbrands.com). Never been one to follow traditional market-
ing methods, Vivienne Westwood is an inspiration to aspiring designers‘to
find their edge in the marketplace’. Brands, who are as vocal and challeng-
ing as Westwood, are constantly put in the spotlight and questioned about
their ethics in supporting sustainable fashion design and the production of it,
whilst still producing multiple collections per year. Collaborations with celeb-
rities and other sustainable companies have further established her standing
as a brand that supports change in the issue of fashion and environmental
damage, providing consumers with the‘back story’ and emotional connection,
when purchasing a Vivienne Westwood garment.
b. Stella McCartney
With a bold mission statement of‘We challenge and push boundaries to make
luxurious products in a way that is fit for the world we live in today and the
future: beautiful and sustainable. No compromises’, the Stella McCartney
brand has a lot to live up to (stellamccartney.com). To earn the trust of the
consumer, the brand has to stand by that mission statement in every aspect of
its production and research process. The Stella McCartney brand has always
been associated with being a Vegetarian Luxury brand, anti-fur and cruelty
free, an ethos ingrained in the brand by family association. Veganism and
vegetarianism are seen as more eco-friendly agriculture, and cattle farming
is the number one reason for rainforest deforestation, which connects to the
original brand values. Leather and fur, whilst these are not used in any collec-
tion due to the Vegan ethos of the company, they are also unsustainable. As
awareness of sustainability has increased, the brand has evolved. The Stella
McCartney website clearly shows the sustainable policies of the company and
its aims to follow a sustainable production process (stellamccartney.com).
The Stella McCartney brand, in the absence of government legislation on
sustainability, has been one of the leading companies in creating plans for the
future, corporate responsibility goals and campaigns around improving the
brands environmental impact even further. Initiatives such as Clean by Design, a
joint programme with their Italian production mills, to reduce water and energy
use; no use of pvc within the brand; dedicated to improving human rights of
workers through the Ethical Trading Initiative; use of recycled fabrics and further
funding of research into circularity. Brands adopting these approaches of creat-
ing sustainable goals and then publishing reports on the outcomes are provid-
ing transparency into the brand and in turn gaining the trust of the consumer.
Marketing and advertising campaigns convey the message of ethics and sustain-
ability; which has received greater acknowledgement as a result of Holywood A
listers and celebrities wearing Stella McCartney dresses at red carpet events.
Editorial
www.intellectbooks.com 11
c. Patagonia
Often quoted as being one of the worlds most sustainable companies, and
second in the 2017 Sustainability Leaders Report (sustainability.com),
Patagonia is constantly evolving its design and production systems with new
innovation in materials, collaboration with other companies and production
plants, working closely with every partner along the supply chain.
Patagonia’s target market is individuals who appreciate the natural world,
and in turn support the outerwear brand’s values in creating products that
strive to be as sustainable and eco-friendly as they can be (patagonia.com).
The company launched a social responsibility programme in the mid-1990s in
collaboration with factory production partners. By 2011, Patagonia had moved
this further back to include the mills that make their textiles, allowing the
business more control over workers’ conditions and human rights (patago-
nia.com). Initially launching with a collection of ten fair trade styles in 2014,
Patagonia now produces 480 fair trade designs within the product range, with
15,700 factory workers directly benefiting. Having a responsible third party
like Fair-Trade USA involved was important to instil consumer confidence that
Patagonia were substantiating claims.
Patagonia’s anti-Black Friday campaign‘Don’t buy this jacket’ was aimed
at making people aware of out of control consumerism. Ironically, the brands
honesty appealed to consumers resulting in increased sales. This prime exam-
ple of‘systematic authenticity’ (hbr.org), whilst initially seen as a clever‘PR
stunt’, gained more in terms of recognition for the companies strong values
around producing quality long-lasting products with little or no harm to the
environment.
Primarily an outdoor clothing brand, Patagonia is committed to educat-
ing its customers on the environmental impact of every garment purchased
and to sharing research and knowledge. The company sells an‘expedition’
sewing repair kit as a necessary tool kit, such as a cyclist would buy a punc-
ture repair kit. The fact that the clothing is of such a high quality that it can
be repaired and reused, instantly adds to the value of the garment. The throw
away culture, adopted by the fast-fashion culture, has no place in this brand.
Consumers can feel a sense of‘satisfaction’ in knowing their garment will not
end up in landfills and a further collaboration with Ebay gives customers the
opportunity to sell on their old Patagonia garment.
Patagonia are now also selling a wash bag, which‘significantly reduces the
flow of microfibres’ into the waste water stream (Patagonia.com). Microfibres
released during laundering, from not only virgin polyester but also recycled
polyester, are polluting oceans, rivers and ultimately the food chain, with plas-
tic, negatively impacting‘eco-systems and human health’ (MacArthur 2017).
A recent report from the Ellen MacArthur foundation points out two actions
needed to drastically reduce plastic microfibre release would be to:
1. Develop new materials and production processes to design out microfibre
shredding.
2. Increase effectiveness of technologies that capture microfibres that are
released (2017).
Thirty-five per cent of primary plastics entering the ocean are released
through washing of textiles (Browne et al. 2011). It is estimated that between
Debbie Moorhouse | Danielle Moorhouse
12 Clothing Cultures
1.8 and 5 million tons of primary micro plastics are released into the environ-
ment every year, during washing, causing major concern (MacArthur 2017).
3. Production: Product origin and provenance as a brand
For many manufacturers, ‘being innovative means adding technology to a
problem’ (Fletcher 2013). Constantly introducing new technologies into the
apparel production process, producing materials and garments, more effi-
ciently and faster, often has the effect of neglecting‘the very substantial effect
the behaviour has in determining the product’s overall environmental impact’
(2013).
In designing a sustainable brand strategy, product origin and provenance
are increasingly become the important issue in which to be transparent. Social
media‘savvy’ consumers are aware of the environmental and human impact
of their clothing purchases and they want to set aside the guilt with a good
sustainable design purchase. Brands such as Reformation, whilst appealing to
the young‘fun and sexy’ market, add substance to the brand by subtely adding
information about product origin to the website. This is further compounded
by swimwear and surf wear designers using recycled ocean plastic materi-
als such as Econyl in their collections, supporting initiatives for research into
ocean and marine life of speakers and attendees of conservation and beach
clean-ups. Organizations highlighting the benefits of localized production,
in reducing transportation costs, both financially and environmentally, lead
consumers to choose products made in their own country.
I. Certified Made in the UK
Certified Made in the UK, a non-profit organization, was formed in 2016, to
support and promote UK design and manufacturing. The organization began
as a social network community founded in 2010, when the UK manufacturing
industry was severely impacted by clothing and textile manufacturing being
sourced abroad, particularly in Asia where labour costs were low. Members
of the community founded as the Made in the UK – Clothing, Fashion and
Accessories Initiative grew to 6000 industry professionals by 2011 – just one
year after the initiative was founded, 11,000 members in 2015 and to 20,000
members by 2018. Traditional skills were lost in the UK; textile mills and cloth-
ing production factories closed down because they were no longer competi-
tive. Studies reveal 73 per cent of British people believe products manufactured
in the UK are associated with‘quality, cultural pride and reliability’. The high-
lighting of working conditions in factories overseas, particularly with the Rana
Plaza tragedy in 2013 and subsequent media reviews of environmental impact
in some less developed areas, is forcing businesses to rethink where they oper-
ate production. Sustainable brands see the benefit of producing locally, both
environmentally and by increased profitability. Research conducted across 53
countries, with 43,034 consumers, ranked UK the ‘third highest individual
country for its“Made in Label”’ behind Made in Germany, the most respected
brand label globally (Statista.com). In 2015, production of UK textiles and
apparel generates £9 billion and employs 90,000–100,000, with expected new
jobs created in textile manufacturing in the UK projected at 20,000 by 2020
(britishfashioncouncil.com).
Editorial
www.intellectbooks.com 13
II. Sustainable Fashion London
Sustainable Fashion London is an annual event held during London Fashion
Week in September. The first event of this kind was held as an opportunity to
bring together academics, industry professionals, organizations and students,
who wanted to share their views on the current state of the fashion industry
and ideas for sustainable development in industry, reducing its environmen-
tal impact. Organized by the International Society for Sustainable Fashion,
Certified Made in the UK and in association with the Royal Society of Arts,
the aim of the symposium was to discuss the current status of the fashion
industry, as well as fashion education, in an open arena and during a high-
profile event such as London Fashion Week. Often conferences of this nature
are only open to academics or industry professionals; sometimes from within
a particular circle and sometimes with a fee at an excessively high price that
students are unable to afford. With over 60 attendees and twelve key speak-
ers, the day was a great success but more than just a single day event, it has
become a catalyst for like-minded people to begin meeting and sharing ideas
about how we can make changes for good, within the fashion industry.
As a result of the Sustainable Fashion London 2017 event, and with posi-
tive feedback and requests from the attendees to continue this knowledge
exchange, the International Society for Sustainable Fashion has been estab-
lished to provide a platform for academics, students, brands and consum-
ers to exchange knowledge on sustainability, develop research partnerships
and provide a forum for discussion. The International Society for Sustainable
Fashion has now attracted the attention of prestigious brands and institutions
from around the world including United Kingdom, United States, Australia,
Europe and Asia. The Sustainable Fashion London event is planned to run
annually during London Fashion Week.
Figure 1: Logo for‘Made in the UK’ clothing, fashion and accessories.
Debbie Moorhouse | Danielle Moorhouse
14 Clothing Cultures
4. Marketing and communication: Using sustainability as a
marketing tool
The relationship between designer and consumer is inherently linked; one
is creating the desired product, the other is aspiring to or discovering it. The
connection between the two enactors is the enterprise, with the marketing
and branding of a business becoming a pivotal role in the success of any
product or service, perhaps even more so when attempting to commercialize
sustainability.
H&M are a good example of a company that is attempting to make
progress by endeavouring to do positive things within the fashion industry.
For example, using organic cotton and other more sustainable materials, such
as tencel, working with factories to provide better working conditions and a
living wage, as well as providing take back schemes to prevent textiles from
going into landfills. In reality, the company is very good at marketing and
communication but not quite getting it right because the fast-fashion business
model is unsustainable.
Figure 2: Sustainable Fashion London logo.
Sustainable Fashion London symposium – September 2017
Academic Industry Researcher Student
Speakers % 36 50 14
Attendees % 18 46 10 26
Table 1: Table of speakers and attendees of Sustainable Fashion London 2017.
Editorial
www.intellectbooks.com 15
Retailers often perceive sustainability and the social and environmen-
tal problems that fast-fashion and mass consumption has compounded, as a
consumer issue whereby they develop initiatives aimed at educating consum-
ers, failing to quantify the underlying problem of selling newness. The reality
is that businesses, particularly in the fast-fashion sector, encourage consump-
tion for profit.
Cause-related marketing is generally when a business collaborates with a
non-profit social enterprise to create a marketing strategy to support a cause.
The non-profit gains from being promoted and funded, the retailer benefits
from increased sales and the consumer gains emotional attachment from its
purchase and support of positive change (Ulasewicz 2015).
The ethos of Artisanal womenswear brand Bamford is to work with tradi-
tional artisans to keep their skills alive both in the UK and abroad. Consumers
purchasing the brand have the added experience and emotional attachment of
feeling they are making a difference in the world.
5. Product life cycle
The cradle-to-cradle life cycle philosophy, developed by Braungart (2014),
suggests that all industrial products can be designed within one of two
cycles: a biological cycle, where the loop is closed when a product is harm-
lessly returned to the earth, and a closed-loop system, where the product is
recycled continually back into use. Where no products should exist outside of
this model, the designer and, in the case of the fashion industry, the materials
designer have to work holistically to create products that take into account the
entire life cycle.
Designing in a closed-loop system would involve using materials which, at
the end of life, can be recycled back into new fabrics of a similar quality. Most
recycling of fabrics, until recently, have been seen as down-cycling, mainly a
guilt avoidance activity and as a result freeing the consumers conscience to
create more waste. Due to harmful chemicals used in the dyeing and produc-
tion processes, some would argue that composting is not a realistic option for
garments and textiles (Niinimaki 2013), resulting in the most ideal outcome
of closing the loop in a technical cycle (2013). A cradle-to-cradle system has
been adapted for many years in a number of industries. In 1993, Climatex
Lifecycle was developed in collaboration with Designtex and Rohner Textil,
resulting in an upholstery fabric made from biodegradable fibres, with safe
processing treatments, allowing it to be composted, providing food for the
eco-system (Fletcher 2013).
Marks and Spencer, as part of their Plan A, introduced the take back
scheme of ‘Shwopping’, later followed by similar schemes by H&M and
Zara. Impact of the gains of such schemes are debatable as to whether this
reduces the amount of textiles to landfills or only‘creates a fresh round of
consumption’ (Fletcher 2013). The majority of garments sent to landfills can
be reworn, reused or recycled and take back schemes such as the ones intro-
duced in retail stores are preventing some textiles from ending up in land-
fills. H&M collects around 40,000 tonnes of garments since launching the
scheme in 2013, although much of what cannot be reused is down cycled
into cleaning cloths or insulation fibres, which ultimately end up in land-
fills (Gould 2017). To put this in perspective, since launching its recycling
programme in 2013, H&M has probably taken back, since the scheme started
in 2013, an equivalent of 260 million t-shirts. In contrast to this industry,
Debbie Moorhouse | Danielle Moorhouse
16 Clothing Cultures
experts would estimate that the company has sold in excess of 1.3 billion
pieces of clothing per year (Beeler 2017). The ideal life cycle model would
see brands investing in research and technology, into a more circular model,
where raw materials are extracted at a quality that allows them to be returned
to the production process. Patagonia’s model of lasting quality and repair
sets a better standard when considering product life cycle, as highlighted in
section2.1.3. Mud jeans have created a concept whereby garments, and in
this case predominantly jeans, are sold as a service rather than ownership
of a product. Mud jeans have introduced a‘pioneering Lease a jeans’ model
to ensure they tray the owners of the raw materials so they can be taken
back after use and remade into new products. The idea is that manufacturers
remain the owners of the product and‘consumers pay for the performance
only’ (Ellen MacArthur Foundation 2018). The manufacturer, in turn, has a
greater interest in producing a product that lasts. Once the product quality
has totally depleted, the jeans can then be shredded and together with new
organic cotton fibres be remade into a new pair of jeans. The added value of
this business model is that the company surrounds itself with like-minded
people,‘visionaries’ who demand change (2018).
Conclusion
‘Customers are expecting more and more that a company will not just have a
great product but demonstrate social responsibilty’ says Mireia Llusia-Lindh,
founder of British handbag brand Milli Millu, which has now been rebranded
as De Mellier. The brand continues its initiativeA Bag, A Life’, whereby for
every bag purchased, life-saving vaccines and treatments are aimed at saving
a child’s life. This is no‘marketing gimmick’ with the brand, to date, funding
over 25,000 vaccines for orphans in need (Hendriksz 2017). More people are
buying into brands keen to place philanthropy at the heart of their business.
The purchase then comes with an added feel good factor. Quality and good
service is as it has always been the overriding g factor in any consumer choice
and brand loyalty as a constantly returning customer. Patagonia has a strat-
egy focused on this approach through problem solving, purpose of design and
functionality, acknowledging customer needs in an outdoor brand that not
only sells quality garments but provides an after service that ensures longevity
and value in your purchase.
The most important message in this article is the need for collaboration
between design, innovation, technology and communication. The traditional
hierarchical structure of the lone designer at the top needs a positive change
where every person in the production process works together to create a
circular system. Seventy-two per cent of UK adults are paying attention to
the ‘green’ credentials of a brand and are willing to pay more for products
from ‘companies committed to positive social and environmental impact’
(provenance 2018). Brands that make sustainability part of their DNA, rather
than using it as a marketing tool, create products with quality and good
aesthetic, generate brand trust and loyalty from their customers. Brands need
to find a point of focus and have substance to this focus; be authentic and
be open to questions. Transparency creates trust in the brand. The relation-
ship between brand and consumer primarily depends on the the quality of
the product and service provided. A conscious consumer may choose a brand
initially for its sustainable or ethical ethos; however, if the product and service
do not provide satisfaction, brand loyalty will be lost.
Editorial
www.intellectbooks.com 17
REFERENCES
Armstrong, M. (2017),‘The world’s most respected“Made In”labels’, https://
www.statista.com/chart/8654/mici-the-worlds-most-respected-made-in-
labels/. Accessed 5 April 2018.
Beeler, C. (2017), ‘How good is H&M’s clothing recycling program?’, PRI’,
https://www.pri.org/stories/2017-12-08/how-good-hm-s-clothing-
recycling-program. Accessed 5 April 2018.
Braungart, M. (2014), Cradle to Cradle, Munich: Piper Verlag.
British Fashion Council (2015), ‘High-end and designer manufacturing’,
http://www.britishfashioncouncil.com/uploads/files/1/Manufacturing.pdf.
Accessed 4 April 2018.
Browne, M.A., Crump, P., Niven, S., Teuton, E., Galloway, T. and Thomson,
R. (2011),‘Accumulation of microplastic on shorelines worldwide: Sources
and sinks’, Environmental Science and Technology, 45:21, pp. 9175–17.
Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017), ‘A new textiles economy: Redesigning
fashion’s future’, http://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications.
Accessed 5 April 2018.
——— (2018), ‘MUD jeans: Pioneering a lease model for organic cotton
jeans’, https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/case-studies/pionee-
ring-a-lease-model-for-organic-cotton-jeans. Accessed 5 April 2018.
Fletcher, K. (2013), Sustainable Fashion and Textiles, Oxford, UK: Routledge.
GlobeScan (2017),‘Sustainability leaders: Celebrating 20 years of leadership’,
http://s10458.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/The-2017-Leaders-A-
GlobeScan-SustainAbility-Survey.pdf. Accessed 5 April 2018.
Gould, H. (2017),‘Zara and H&M back in-store recycling to tackle throwaway
culture’, The Guardian, https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-busi-
ness/2017/may/26/zara-hm-step-up-instore-recycling-tackle-throwaway-
culture. Accessed 5 April 2018.
Gwilt, A. (2012), Shaping Sustainable Fashion, London: Routledge.
——— (2014), A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion, London: A&C Black.
Hendriksz, V. (2017), ‘Columbia Sports to launch ‘Star Wars: The Empire
Strikes Back’ inspired collection’, Fashion United, https://fashionunited.uk/
news/fashion/Page-89?sa=x. Accessed 5 April 2018.
Henninger, C.E. (2017), Sustainability in Fashion, Cham, Germany: Springer.
Hethorn, J. (2015), Sustainable Fashion, New York: Bloomsbury Publishing.
Hodgson, S. (2017a),‘Made in Britain: Flying the flag for great British brands’,
Fabrik Brands, http://fabrikbrands.com/made-in-britain-british-brands/.
Accessed 4 April 2018.
——— (2017b), ‘Quintessentially British brands: Vivienne Westwood, from
punk to style to symbol’, Fabrik Brands, http://fabrikbrands.com/quintes-
sentially-british-brands-vivienne-westwood-brand/. Accessed 7 April 2018.
Murray, B. (2013),‘Embedding environmental sustainability in product design’,
Wrap, http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/Embedding%20sustainabi-
lity%20in%20design%20%20-%20final%20v1.pdf. Accessed 7 April 2018.
Moorhouse, D. and Moorhouse, D. (2017), ‘Sustainable design: Circular
economy in fashion and textiles’, The Design Journal, 20, pp. S1948–59,
https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2017.1352713.
Neren, U. (2012), ‘Patagonia’s provocative Black Friday campaign’, https://
hbr.org/2012/11/patagonias-provocative-black-friday. Accessed 31 March
2018.
Niinimaki, K. (ed.) (2013), Sustainable Fashion: New Approaches, Helsinki: Aalto
ARTS Books.
Debbie Moorhouse | Danielle Moorhouse
18 Clothing Cultures
Patagonia (2017),An update on microfiber pollution’, https://www.patagonia.
com/blog/footprint-chronicles/page/1/. Accessed 30 March 2018.
Provenance (2018), ‘Empowering the whole supply chain’, https://www.
provenance.org/. Accessed 1 April 2018.
Thomas, S. (2017), Fashion Ethics, Oxford, UK: Routledge.
Thwink.org (2017),‘Finding and resolving the root causes of the sustainabi-
lity problem’, http://www.thwink.org/sustain/glossary/Sustainability.htm.
Accessed 10 March 2018.
Ulasewicz, C. (2015), ‘Social responsibility and innovation in the sewn
products industry’, in Jennifer Farley Gordon and Colleen Hill (eds),
Sustainable Fashion, New York: Bloomsbury Publishing.
United Nations (1987), ‘Report of the world commission on environment
and development: Our common future’, https://www.are.admin.ch/dam/
are/en/dokumente/nachhaltige_entwicklung/dokumente/bericht/our_
common_futurebrundtlandreport1987.pdf.download.pdf/our_common_
futurebrundtlandreport1987.pdf. Accessed 4 April 2018.
Wightman-Stone, D. (2017), ‘Accessories label Milli Millu rebrands as
DeMellier’, Fashion United, https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/acces-
sories-label-milli-millu-rebrands-as-demellier/2017080825420. Accessed
31 March 2018.
CONTRIBUTOR DETAILS
Debbie Moorhouse is a fashion designer and founder of a sustainable luxury
fashion and eveningwear brand. Her designs have been exhibited at London
Fashion Week, the British Bridal Exhibition and featured in magazines world-
wide. She is also a course leader, researcher and consultant specializing in
sustainable fashion. Debbie Moorhouse is the co-founder of the International
Society for Sustainable Fashion, Certified Made in the UK design and manu-
facturing organization and several non-profit initiatives including Made in the
UK: Clothing, Fashion and Accessories, Sustainable Fashion London and the
Made with Love charitable recycling intiative. Web address: www.sustainable-
fashion-society.org; www.ukfashion.org.uk
Contact: International Society for Sustainable Fashion, Kemp House, 160 City
Road, London EC1V 2 NX, UK.
E-mail: d.moorhouse@sustainable-fashion-society.org
Danielle Moorhouse is the co-founder of several non-profit organizations
and industry initiatives including the International Society for Sustainable
Fashion, Certified Made in the UK business organization and the Made in
the UK: Clothing, Fashion and Accessories initiative. Danielle’s expertise is
in creating networks for positive change and her interests include sustainable
development, fair trade, luxury goods and ethical jewellery.
Contact: International Society For Sustainable Fashion, Kemp House, 160 City
Road, London EC1V 2 NX, UK.
E-mail: danielle@sustainable-fashion-society.org
Debbie Moorhouse and Danielle Moorhouse have asserted their right under
the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as the authors of
this work in the format that was submitted to Intellect Ltd.
... Companies are being requested to transform their conventional business models and embrace sustainability principles throughout their value chains (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017;European Commission, 2022). While commendable sustainable practices exist (Brydges, 2021;Moorhouse and Moorhouse, 2018), the market for sustainable fashion remains relatively underdeveloped. It is disconcerting to note that many corporate environmental commitments often serve as mere marketing tools, perpetuating a phenomenon known as greenwashing (Adamkiewicz et al., 2022;Moorhouse and Moorhouse, 2018). ...
... While commendable sustainable practices exist (Brydges, 2021;Moorhouse and Moorhouse, 2018), the market for sustainable fashion remains relatively underdeveloped. It is disconcerting to note that many corporate environmental commitments often serve as mere marketing tools, perpetuating a phenomenon known as greenwashing (Adamkiewicz et al., 2022;Moorhouse and Moorhouse, 2018). To genuinely embrace sustainability, companies are required to substantially invest in research and development (R&D), infrastructure, and workforce training (Abdelmeguid et al., 2022;Jia et al., 2020). ...
... For the majority of consumers, sustainable product attributes are not obvious, and unclear information can force specifically high uncertainty avoidance consumers to avoid undertaking environmental purchasing decisions and negatively impact their WTPM for sustainable fashion. Moreover, earlier research notes that due to a lack of industry standards, the concept of sustainable fashion is not clearly defined (Grazzini et al., 2021;Moorhouse and Moorhouse, 2018). Therefore, many environmental commitments are in reality just marketing tools and greenwashing (Chen and Chang, 2013;Niinimäki, 2015), leading to purchase avoidance. ...
Article
Full-text available
Sustainable fashion is imperative to address environmental and social issues associated with the fashion industry. Although it is argued that consumers’ willingness to pay more (WTPM) for sustainable products, compared to the price of conventional products, can function as a catalyst to motivate companies to pursue sustainability principles. Yet whether consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable fashion remains a relatively unexplored topic. In this regard, we aimed to assess the role of culture using a diverse sample and partial least squares structural equation modeling (PLS-SEM). To do so, we compared Italy, an established fashion market, and Russia, an evolving fashion market. Our PLS-SEM analysis revealed that for Italian consumers, the main cultural dimension driving sustainable fashion purchasing is collectivism, while for Russian consumers, the cultural dimension driving sustainable fashion purchasing is long-term orientation. Furthermore, power distance belief, masculinity, and uncertainty avoidance negatively influence Italian consumers’ WTPM, but these cultural dimensions do not influence Russian consumers’ WTPM. This study contributes to the literature on sustainable consumer behavior and cross-cultural psychology by demonstrating the application of Hofstede’s cultural dimensions theory at the individual level. Additionally, it provides insights into how managers may customize communication strategies for setting value-based pricing to increase consumers’ willingness to pay for sustainable fashion.
Article
One of the growing concerns in pollution research is microfiber pollution (≤5 µm). Current research works aim to understand the difference between different household laundry practices and their impact on sheddability. The researcher through an online survey tried to extract consumer knowledge followed by contaminants analysis from the laundry effluent samples collected from 30 households. Three effluent laundry samples were collected and analyzed from each household for a 1-month laundry behavior analysis. Each household sample was properly coded from H1 to H30. The results stated that H26 has the highest sheddability index with 6.70% of the total emission followed by H17 (6.30%). SEM analysis conveyed the presence of nanofibers (≤1 µm), along with an abundance of microfibers (49.16%) of the total fibers released. An average of 5,849,943 MFs/L were released from the 30 households during all three wash trails. FTIR analysis also emphasized the presence of a wide range of fiber contents from cotton, polyester, elastane, and acrylic, to viscose. An attempt to study the optimized laundry variables such as reduced water temperature and wash cycle time showed no significant difference in the overall sheddability, whereas the same conditions were proven effective in reducing the microfiber shedding. The results show conclude that each household has different laundry needs and thus there is a need for a more critical understanding.
Article
Full-text available
Clothing is a social product that represents both individual and collective manifestations of identity, functioning as a system of signs. This study examines the relationship between fashion and resilience as factors driving changes in the traditional folk costume of Romanian women from Rupea, Brașov County, from the late 19th century to the present. The research is based on semi-structured interviews with locals and enhanced by photo elicitation and participant observation, where the authors served as community insiders. The study first describes the local folk costume’s main distinguishing features, which locals use as indicators of community status. Next, it analyzes the transformations of the folk costume and their sources, including fashion, which facilitated the adoption of external influences based on their association with prestige, and resilient responses to challenges during the period under investigation. The research also demonstrates how Rupea’s Romanian residents managed to preserve and capitalize on the folk costume and community traditions after the Communist Party’s rise to power in Romania. These transformations in folk costume did not diminish its function as a system of signs. The preservation of its significance and traditions demonstrates cultural resilience in an urban environment and supports the role of local communities in sustainably managing intangible cultural heritage resources.
Article
Full-text available
The purpose of this study was to investigate the revival of vintage and retro styles in contemporary fashion. To this end, the study analysed how nostalgia influences consumer choice and the reinterpretation of historical fashion trends. The phenomenon of trend in modern fashion, factors influencing fashion trends, the essence and origin of vintage style, its establishment in fashion, and the influence of retro motifs on modern fashion were considered. The study covered the terms “vintage”, “vintage fashion”, “trend”, “nostalgia”. The features of modelling vintage costume elements were analysed, types of retro trends and their implementation in the artwork of designers were characterised. The main vintage trends in fashion in 2024 were highlighted (trends, prints, fabric, accessories, decor, and accessories). Attention was paid to the review of decorative vintage costume elements of different periods. The study highlighted the techniques of material processing to create vintage effects in modern costumes. The study identified the influence of retro trends and the ways in which nostalgia dictates fashion trends. It was emphasised that consumers of antique goods choose rarity to form their personal identity. That is, admirers of this style recognise retro fashion as an embodiment of authenticity, which differs from the interpretation of vintage items in fashion trends. By choosing vintage, the consumer aims to stand out from the crowd. The conducted study made it clear that retro motifs in modern fashion have a profound influence, mainly because fashion uses vintage elements. The task of fashion industry designers is not only to use vintage details and components competently and successfully in creating an image, but also to shape promising fashion trends and promote the fashion industry and expand the fashion market based on their essential advantages
Article
Full-text available
Recent research in Sustainability has gained increasing attention within the past years, particularly regarding methods and approaches for designing sustainable products and services to address environmental and societal challenges. However, there has been limited exploration of incorporating cultural materials into the design process, which could enhance the cultural sustainability of products and services. This article aims to investigate the potential of integrating traditional royal costumes into fashion design to foster sustainability values and behaviours in contemporary society. A descriptive study focused on the Nhat Binh robe; a formal dress worn by noblewomen of the Nguyen Dynasty (1802–1945). The findings reveal that this traditional costume is rich in visual elements, offering a wealth of inspiration for fashion designers. However, existing products and services have yet to fully leverage the emotional and visual aspects of this unique cultural material. To creatively and sustainably preserve and promote traditional cultural values, this study proposes a model for incorporating traditional cultural materials into fashion design through co-design activities. This model emphasizes close collaboration between designers, artisans, and fashion consumers, with the goal of safeguarding traditional cultural values while advancing sustainable fashion. By fostering collaboration among them, the model has the potential to encourage a sense of ownership and emotional connection to the products, enriching consumer experiences. It not only addresses existing gaps in the use of cultural elements in fashion design but also positions designers to play a pivotal role in the future of sustainable fashion.
Chapter
Sustainability is an emerging trend in the fashion landscape whereby sustainable fashion becomes increasingly mainstream. This is in line with Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) 12 and 13, which task the fashion industry to take urgent actions to combat activities that cause climate and environmental change. That notwithstanding, there appears to be a paucity in the literature in respect of approaches taken by Ghanaian fashion brands to ensure a more ethical and sustainable supply chain. It is therefore imperative for this study to explore sustainable fashion in Ghana. The study relied on the interpretive paradigm on the backdrop that this provides a better way of exploring sustainable fashion in Ghana regarding the knowledge and practices of fashion designers. The data collection was done in Accra, Ghana’s capital, and Kumasi, one of the largest metropolitan areas and business hubs in Ghana. Fashion designers who were residing and running their businesses in Accra or Kumasi were purposefully selected for this study. These designers were included in the study to help ascertain their knowledge and practices of sustainable fashion. Findings from this study will help formulate useful interventions and strategies in ensuring a more sustainable fashion industry in Ghana.KeywordsSustainable fashionSustainabilitySDGsGhanaFashion designersEducationPractices
Chapter
The possibility of re-evaluating and revitalizing local economies in developing countries is a challenge for local and international institutions and organizations, with the study of different strategies related mainly to the social and cultural improvement of populations. With the Rewined project, in order to test an operational methodology as a reference case study, a nation on the African continent, specifically Tanzania, was taken into analysis. Specifically, using local typical productions to develop Green Economy strategies through the enhancement of the wine sector, which represents, with wine, a typical local product and its by-products. The design of a related Brand, through a line of articles closely related to the grape waste of wine production, allowed an accurate analysis of the social and cultural characteristics of the place for a subsequent implementation of the local economy in the most modern principles of sustainable economy. The objective taken into analysis was to intelligently re-evaluate the role of the “Tanzanian producer” at the international level, often the object of imitation of styles and products by European or Asian producers. The main objective of this study was to demonstrate the potential of communication design as a highly functional tool in scenarios where financial and policy interventions are required.KeywordsBrand identityStrategiesRevalutationInclusionCultural characterizations
Thesis
Full-text available
“Becoming more mindful about clothing means looking at every fiber, at every seed and every dye and seeing how to make it better. We don’t want sustainability to be our edge, we want it to be universal.” (Fisher, 2012) Textile industry is one of the most polluting industry on earth. It is using millions of gallons of water every day, representing 10 % of global carbon emissions, and producing lots of solid wastes (Woodside & Fine, 2019). Popular fast-fashion brands exacerbate this fact because of their low-cost business model, wanting to reduce the costs from sourcing the materials to selling to consumers. And from the consumers side, this fact is encouraged when buying these brands. Going greener in this industry could limit the damages on the planet. There is a hundred ways of applying corporate social responsibility , and the different practices used by companies can be confusing: ethical, sustainable, organic, conscious, recyclable… as per the many words used when defining a good behavior of a brand. For example, ethical includes social good, planet friendly, and animal cruelty-free. Organic is focused on growing material without pesticides that are harmful to the environment. This study focuses on Sustainability which is the most complete form of corporate social responsibility practice. It is important in reducing the amount of water, chemicals, energy consumption and the excessive overflowing of landfills. (Abbie, 2020). The goal of this study is to find the practices applicable when building a sustainable business in the fashion industry, and to see how consumers would react to a sustainable brand. This thesis relies on the following research question: How to build a sustainable business in the fashion industry and are consumers interested in it? To answer to this problematic as best as possible, this thesis is separated in three main parts. It begins firstly, with a literature review, containing researches on the impacts of fashion industry on our planet. This part is illustrated by some key figures of the production. Then is exposed a definition and explanation of what sustainability really is, with its history and evolution through the years. It explains as well the different eco-responsible approaches that can exist in a business. This thesis also explains how sustainability can be certified or controlled. The last part of the literature review focuses on the inside of a fashion business, describing all stages of the production and how to have a sustainable approach at each stage of them. All the above topics are reflected in field researches, done with a chosen methodology, that is described on the second part of this thesis: Field Study. This part of the thesis is about the methodology used to collect information needed to respond to the problematic. The first section of the field study is relying on the methodology used to know what consumers think about sustainability, fast fashion and other topics related. The second section focuses on getting information from a brand, to get an example of an eco-business model, and how are applied sustainable methods along the supply chain. The third and last part of this thesis is responding to the problematic through to the hypotheses described in the second part. Then, some recommendations are made and discussed. Lastly, the study exposes the limits identified to the handling of the subject.
Article
In the field of marketing, business and finance, the rise and fall and the associated bifurcations can be better interpreted with the aid of differential equations and the dynamical systems. The differential equations, when Incorporated with the delayed dynamics can interpret the financial delays in more realistic manner. The parametric approximation of such differential equations can be achieved with the aid of robust optimization tool, that is termed as the genetic algorithm. In this manuscript, the concept of delay is invoked with the aid of specific factors linked with the raise and fall of investment frequency in the field of fashion industry and the corresponding stability is modeled with the aid of detailed dynamical analysis. The stability and instability criteria of delay differential equations, governing the dynamics of the investment trends is reported in this manuscript. The bifurcation and their relative criteria of occurrence is discussed. The Hopf bifurcation is important since with the aid of the bifurcation analysis, one can obtain a region of instability, and can thus invest in a safer manner by avoiding such circumstances. © 2022 International Society of Management Science and Engineering Management.
Article
Full-text available
Fashion is widely considered the second most destructive industry after oil, to the environment. An EU initiative called the European Clothing Action Plan has been launched to significantly improve by 2019 the sustainability of textiles across their life cycle from design to end of use. Textile waste ending up in landfills has become a huge concern globally. If every brand along the clothing supply chain begin to implement eco-friendly practices, the textile and fashion industries will become significantly more sustainable. Up to 95% of textiles land filled, each year could be recycled. (pure waste.org) With an increasing concern amongst consumers about the social and environmental impact of their purchases, businesses are beginning to understand the benefits and untapped economic potential of efficient use of waste.
Chapter
As issues surrounding sustainability in the fashion industry continue to evolve, the conversation in this collection of essays from leading fashion academics and practitioners has been updated with current concepts and industry practices. Sustainable Fashion: What’s Next? A Conversation about Issues, Practices and Possibilities, Second Edition examines the challenges that designers, product developers, and consumers confront as they create, wear, and recycle clothing and fashion. Organized into three sections and printed on FSC-certified paper, each section focuses on an in-depth exploration of sustainable opportunities that are identified as people, process and the environment.
Book
This book provides a critical insight into sustainability and fashion in a retailing and marketing context. Examining a truly global industry, Sustainability in Fashion offers international application with a view to contextualising important developments within the industry. Contributors use their diverse backgrounds and expertise to provide a contemporary approach in examining key theoretical concepts, constructs and developments. Topics include consumer behaviour, communications, circular economy and supply chain management. The individual chapters focus on sustainability and provide a range of fashion sector examples from high street to luxury apparel.
The world's most respected "Made In" labels
  • M Armstrong
Armstrong, M. (2017), 'The world's most respected "Made In" labels', https:// www.statista.com/chart/8654/mici-the-worlds-most-respected-made-inlabels/. Accessed 5 April 2018.
How good is H&M's clothing recycling program?
  • C Beeler
Beeler, C. (2017), 'How good is H&M's clothing recycling program?', PRI', https://www.pri.org/stories/2017-12-08/how-good-hm-s-clothingrecycling-program. Accessed 5 April 2018.
High-end and designer manufacturing
  • M Braungart
Braungart, M. (2014), Cradle to Cradle, Munich: Piper Verlag. British Fashion Council (2015), 'High-end and designer manufacturing', http://www.britishfashioncouncil.com/uploads/files/1/Manufacturing.pdf. Accessed 4 April 2018.
Accumulation of microplastic on shorelines worldwide: Sources and sinks
  • M A Browne
  • P Crump
  • S Niven
  • E Teuton
  • T Galloway
  • R Thomson
Browne, M. A., Crump, P., Niven, S., Teuton, E., Galloway, T. and Thomson, R. (2011), 'Accumulation of microplastic on shorelines worldwide: Sources and sinks', Environmental Science and Technology, 45:21, pp. 9175-17.
MUD jeans: Pioneering a lease model for organic cotton jeans
  • Ellen Macarthur Foundation
Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017), 'A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion's future', http://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications. Accessed 5 April 2018. ---(2018), 'MUD jeans: Pioneering a lease model for organic cotton jeans', https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/case-studies/pioneering-a-lease-model-for-organic-cotton-jeans. Accessed 5 April 2018.
Sustainability leaders: Celebrating 20 years of leadership
  • Globescan
GlobeScan (2017), 'Sustainability leaders: Celebrating 20 years of leadership', http://s10458.pcdn.co/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/The-2017-Leaders-A-GlobeScan-SustainAbility-Survey.pdf. Accessed 5 April 2018.
Zara and H&M back in-store recycling to tackle throwaway culture
  • H Gould
Gould, H. (2017), 'Zara and H&M back in-store recycling to tackle throwaway culture', The Guardian, https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2017/may/26/zara-hm-step-up-instore-recycling-tackle-throwawayculture. Accessed 5 April 2018.