The antiaging properties of Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G.Don essential oil: collagenase and elastase inhibition activities

Abstract

Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don is an evergreen shrub of the Asteraceae family whose aerial parts are a source of essential oil. For this study, flowering samples have been harvested and hydrodistilled in July 2016 and the obtained essential oil has been characterized by means of GC/MS. Overall, 68 compounds were identified, of which over 30% are oxygenated monoterpenes: among these compounds, nerol and its esters are the most represented ones, with neryl acetate as the most abundant (15.4%) component of the EO. This pattern is reported in the literature for other H. italicum EOs (1,2). The characteristic helichrysum β-diketones known as italidiones were detected in the composition: 4,6,9-trimethyl-8-decene-3,5-dione (italidione I) and 2,4,6,9-tetramethyl-8-decene-3,5-dione (italidione II) showed the most relevant relative abundances.
For a long time, the essential oil of H. italicum (Roth) G. Don has been used in the preparation of cosmetic products for skin care, including anti-aging products (5). The collagenase activity can be stimulated by several factors as well as UV light: this causes degradation of matrix proteins and skin aging. Elastase are proteolytic enzymes in the dermis that are responsible for the degradation of elastin in the extracellular matrix. The loss of elastin plays a significant role in the development of the visible signs of aging (wrinkles, sagging) in the skin (6). The essential oil of H. italicum inhibited the collagenase (Fig. 1) and elastase (Fig. 2) activities with an IC50 (μg/ml) of 36.99±1.52 and 235±6.32, respectively. Values shown represent the mean ± SD from five independent experiments. These inhibition activities have been compared with those of oleanolic acid, which is a skin-protective pentacyclic triterpene.
As evidenced, the elastase inhibition effect is particularly relevant. To the best of our knowledge, there is no other published study dealing with the inhibiting effect of H. italicum EO on these enzymes activities.

Fig. 1. Collagenase inhibition
Fig. 2. Elastase inhibition

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Full text

3.2 = The antiaging properties of Helichrysum italicum (Roth)
G.Don essential oil: collagenase and elastase inhibition activities
Roberta Ascrizzi1, Guido Flamini1, Daniele Fraternale2
1 Department of Pharmacy, University of Pisa, Via Bonanno 6, 56126, Pisa, Italy
2Department of Biomolecular Sciences, Plant Biology Section, University of Urbino Carlo Bo, Via Bramante 28, 61029 Urbino (PU), Italy
For a long time, the essential oil of Helichrysumm italicum (Roth) G.Don has been used in the preparation of
cosmetic products for skin care, including anti-aging products1. Collagenase and elastase are dermis enzymes
involved in the development of the visibile signs of aging (wrinkles, sagging):
Aim of This Study
References
1Millou, Fontes, Tourel (2010) Patent number US7666454 B2; 2Lee, Noh, Kwon, Lee, Chu et al. (2009) Int. J. Mol. Med., 23; 3Van Wart, Steinbrink (1981) Anal. Biochem., 113;.Kraunsoe, Claridge, Lowe (1996) Biochemistry, 35
•Collagenase: activation (e.g. UV-mediated) causes degradation of the matrix proteins.
•Elastase: activation causes degradation of elastin of the extracellular matrix2.
In this study, the inhibition effect of H. italicum EO has been evaluated on these two enzyme classes.
Materials and Methods
Plant Material and EO Extraction
Flowering samples have been harvested
in July 2016 and hydrodistilled in a
Clevenger apparatus for 2 h.
EO Analysis
The EO composition has been
characterized by means of GC-MS (Varian
CP-3800, DB5 column; Varian Saturn
2000).
Inhibition assays
•Collagenase: measurement of FALGPA (N-
(3-[2-Furyl]acryloyl)-Leu-Gly-Pro-Ala)
using the method of Van Wart et al.3
•Elastase: using the method of Kransoe et al.4
Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation
Phytochemical Analysis: EO composition
Overall, 68 compounds were identified in the total EO composition.
Chemical
Classes of
Compounds
Relative
abundance
(%)
Monoterpene
hydrocarbons 14.5
Oxygenated
monoterpenes 31.6
Sesquiterpene
hydrocarbons 29.1
Oxygenated
sesquiterpenes 5.6
Non
-terpene derivatives 17.8
of which β-diketones (
italidiones)
15.9
Main compounds in the EO
•Oxygenated monoterpenes: neryl acetate (15.4%), nerol
(4.5%), linalool (4.3%), neryl propanoate (3.3%).
•Sesquiterpene hydrocarbons: ar-curcumene (5.2%), β-selinene
(5.2%), γ-curcumene (4.7%), α-selinene (4.7%).
•Italidiones: italidione I (7.2%), italidione II (4.2%), italidione
III (2.7%).
Bioactivity Evaluation: Enzyme Inhibition Assays
The inhibition activities of H. italicum EO have been compared with those of oleanolic acid, which is a skin-protective pentacyclic triterpene.
23.61
36.99
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
Olean. Ac. EO
IC50(μg/mL)
Collagenase inhibition
52.6
235.4
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
Olean. Ac. EO
IC50 (μg/mL)
Elastase inhibition
The H. italicum essential oil inhibited both collagenase and elastase activities with an IC50 (μg/ml) of 36.99±1.52 and 235±6.32, respectively.
Values shown represent the mean ±SD from five independent experiments.
Conclusion
The results show an inhibitory effect of Helichrysumm italicum (Roth) G.Don essential oil on both the enzymes, with a particularly relevant
effect on the elastase activity. Further studies are needed, but these findings seem to indicate that this EO is a promising ingredient for anti-aging
products.
112°Congress of the Italian Botanical Society
IV International Plant Science Conference (IPSC)