3.2 = The antiaging properties of Helichrysum italicum (Roth)
G.Don essential oil: collagenase and elastase inhibition activities
Roberta Ascrizzi1, Guido Flamini1, Daniele Fraternale2
1 Department of Pharmacy, University of Pisa, Via Bonanno 6, 56126, Pisa, Italy
2Department of Biomolecular Sciences, Plant Biology Section, University of Urbino Carlo Bo, Via Bramante 28, 61029 Urbino (PU), Italy
For a long time, the essential oil of Helichrysumm italicum (Roth) G.Don has been used in the preparation of
cosmetic products for skin care, including anti-aging products1. Collagenase and elastase are dermis enzymes
involved in the development of the visibile signs of aging (wrinkles, sagging):
Aim of This Study
1Millou, Fontes, Tourel (2010) Patent number US7666454 B2; 2Lee, Noh, Kwon, Lee, Chu et al. (2009) Int. J. Mol. Med., 23; 3Van Wart, Steinbrink (1981) Anal. Biochem., 113;.Kraunsoe, Claridge, Lowe (1996) Biochemistry, 35
•Collagenase: activation (e.g. UV-mediated) causes degradation of the matrix proteins.
•Elastase: activation causes degradation of elastin of the extracellular matrix2.
In this study, the inhibition effect of H. italicum EO has been evaluated on these two enzyme classes.
Materials and Methods
Plant Material and EO Extraction
Flowering samples have been harvested
in July 2016 and hydrodistilled in a
Clevenger apparatus for 2 h.
The EO composition has been
characterized by means of GC-MS (Varian
CP-3800, DB5 column; Varian Saturn
•Collagenase: measurement of FALGPA (N-
using the method of Van Wart et al.3
•Elastase: using the method of Kransoe et al.4
Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation
Phytochemical Analysis: EO composition
Overall, 68 compounds were identified in the total EO composition.
-terpene derivatives 17.8
of which β-diketones (
Main compounds in the EO
•Oxygenated monoterpenes: neryl acetate (15.4%), nerol
(4.5%), linalool (4.3%), neryl propanoate (3.3%).
•Sesquiterpene hydrocarbons: ar-curcumene (5.2%), β-selinene
(5.2%), γ-curcumene (4.7%), α-selinene (4.7%).
•Italidiones: italidione I (7.2%), italidione II (4.2%), italidione
Bioactivity Evaluation: Enzyme Inhibition Assays
The inhibition activities of H. italicum EO have been compared with those of oleanolic acid, which is a skin-protective pentacyclic triterpene.
Olean. Ac. EO
Olean. Ac. EO
The H. italicum essential oil inhibited both collagenase and elastase activities with an IC50 (μg/ml) of 36.99±1.52 and 235±6.32, respectively.
Values shown represent the mean ±SD from five independent experiments.
The results show an inhibitory effect of Helichrysumm italicum (Roth) G.Don essential oil on both the enzymes, with a particularly relevant
effect on the elastase activity. Further studies are needed, but these findings seem to indicate that this EO is a promising ingredient for anti-aging
112°Congress of the Italian Botanical Society
IV International Plant Science Conference (IPSC)